2010 iMac 2.93 i7 27" or 2011 2.8 i7 21.5" - which will suit better long-term? I do a fair amount of audio, video editing and photoshop, but I have a limited budget. What's going to give the best bang-for-buck for the next 3-5 yrs?
I do a fair amount of audio, video editing and photoshop, but I have a limited budget. What's going to give the best bang-for-buck for the next 3-5 yrs? My current machine is a 13" Macbook unibody 2.4 Core 2 Duo w/ 4Gb Ram so it's time to move forward with more power and screen real estate!
Hello, Jeff
I could never edit on a 13" screen. I'm currently using a 17" MBP i7 Early 2011 as a fast replacement to my aged 20" Intel iMac.
Both systems are not that far apart on stats and you will find that processing HD video will rely highly on the read/write to your storage. Myself, I'd be eye balling the 2011 for the Thunderbolt port so HD Video export/compression doesn't take forever! Currently processing a finished HD project for DVD uses at most 20% of my total CPU capacity. The FW800 drive is the big bottleneck! (I know I need at least a RAID to see a real speed boost).
How good your eyes are and your usage style would dictate if the difference in screen size make a difference to you.
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I was just forced to "upgrade" iphoto, and most of my slideshows are gone. What is going on? I'm desperate here.
Thanks for the reply.
It wouldn't open unless I clicked "upgrade." The other option was "cancel." The Genius at the Apple Store said I had no choice. The new stuff looks idfferent but maybe it's just taking a while to go through all my photos. I can't tell what is going on exactly, but I'm nervous to see the last slideshow there is 2010.
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I have a limited budget so between 5s 16b and 5c 32b what is better?
i have a limited budget so between 5s 16b and 5c 32b what is better? My use is largely for photos, videos and songs. I do not store any movies on the phone.
The A7 chip is more powerful then the A6. It is also has a 64 bit processor in it. Big advantages not really is slightly faster when you do the same things on both the 5S and 5C.
For the needs you stated and since you said you are on a budget, I suggested the 5C.
Allan -
Safari problem: when I switch back into safari from another application, the menu bar comes up but no tabs or windows. What's going on? Just started yesterday. I have found a workaround: when I Command Tab back to safari, I hit command T to open a new tab and Command W to close it, and my other tabs are visible.
I have tried shutting down, closing tabs, with no success. What's going on and how can I fix it?
Thanks,
Cindi B
PS: I'm not sure of the actual OS level, but I have not allowed it to upgrade to Maverick yet; concerned about it because of a few things I've read...A Safari extension or third party plugin may be causing the menu bar issue.
From the Safari menu bar click Safari > Preferences then select the Extensions tab. Turn that OFF, quit and relaunch Safari to test. If that helped, turn one extension on then quit and relaunch Safari to test until you find the incompatible extension then click uninstall.
If it's not an extensions issue, try troubleshooting third party plug-ins.
Back to Safari > Preferences. This time select the Security tab. Deselect: Allow plug-ins. Quit and relaunch Safari to test.
If that made a difference, instructions for troubleshooting plugins here.
As for which OS X is installed.
Click the Apple () menu top left in your screen. From the drop down menu click About This Mac.
The version is noted there.
v10.6 Snow Leopard v10.7 Lion v10.8 Mountain Lion
It's your choice whether or not to upgrade to Mavericks. If you decide to do this, make sure your Mac meets the requirements noted here. -
How it it I have 550 songs on my nano but only 269 show up in itunes without playlists? How do I get all 550 songs and playlists back into itunes?
Also when i click on "computer" the nano icon is up for about 5s then goes away and I can't find it...what is going on?spea105 wrote:
How it it I have 550 songs on my nano but only 269 show up in itunes without playlists? How do I get all 550 songs and playlists back into itunes?
How do you manage your iPod? Do you Sync your entire music library, or only selected playlists? -
All of a sudden, new tabs have started opening up (in Firefox) advertising games and other stuff. Any idea's of what is going on here?
Try scanning for malware using the removal tools listed near the bottom of the [[Troubleshoot Firefox issues caused by malware]] article.
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Firefox is refusing to start. It says that my profile is missing, which it appears to be. Yet the way in which one goes about creating a new profile wont' work either. Anybody have a bloody clue what's going on and how to fix it?
AIR give you classes to detect an on-line or off-line status, it's in
this way for the sake of flexibility for instance what happens if you
only what to sync data only on Saturdays at 2 am? If it were done
automatically that'll be a problem. And it isn't so complicated.
You can download the SalesBuilder from AIR examples at www.adobe.com/devnet/air
it's an application that does everything you have in mind.
I don't understand your question abou file types.
An AIR app can communicate with almost every backend served tech
CF, .Net, PHP, RoR.
Sincerely,
Michael
El 14/05/2009, a las 8:48, IrishAIRMax <[email protected]> escribió:
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I have to say that I'm loving the picture! well cool!
>
Sorry but I don't quiet understand. I thought AIR did the updating
automatically? I didn't realise the developer had to program the
logic of how the updates take place? Is it a case in most AIR apps
that when online the app updates the server and once every intervel
(of however long) the local SQLite DB is synced to the more updated
server DB. Then when offline the developer has to sense that the app
is offline and store a log manually of the updates without any help
from AIR itself, and then update once it comes online again?
>
Can AIR link to anything more than a database on the server side
apart from webservices, for example .as files or any other file types?
>
What type of server is a Flex app stored on, is it a specific Adobe
server rather than a Java or .NET server?
>
Thank you so much for your last comment!
IrishAIRMax
> -
each time i-tunes updates on my pc I lose the settings and have to import again - what is going wrong
each time i-tunes updates on my pc I lose the settings and have to import again - what is going wrong
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When I try to play a You Tube video in Safari it tells me my version is no longer supported and I should download a newer version of Safari. I have OSX10.8.5, and my Safari is 6.2.3, and apparently it's up to date. What's going on? Should I just give up and use Chrome or Firefox, which work fine?
Thanks,
RichardYour USER AGENT information is Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10_8_5) AppleWebKit/600.3.18 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/6.2.3 Safari/537.85.12
Every webserver that receives a request from your browser is able to determine the HTTP USER AGENT information unless it has been removed by some software (e.g. firewall) before the request was trasmitted. -
I have an Apple Trackpad that shows that it is connected with Bluetooth but it is not responding. I've tried restarting the computer, disconnecting and reconnecting and also turning the trackpad on and off but it simply does not respond. Does anyone have any idea on what is going on here?
There are reports of similar behavour but generally it is due to battery connections. Is the indicator light working steadily or does it blink or even not function. Here is the Apple document dealing with some of the problems.
http://manuals.info.apple.com/MANUALS/1000/MA1544/en_US/Magic_Trackpad_UG.pdf
Is your machine within the guarantee period or under Apple care. If so, return it to any apple retailer for examination and possible replacement. -
when i try to download mavericks i can't . it said that i need at least 2 Go of memory but i have a lot. What to do?
Also, if you really do not know or sure of what you are doing,
Before embarking on a major OS upgrade, it would be wise, advisable and very prudent if you backup your current system to an external connected and Mac formatted Flash drive OR externally connected USB, Thunderbolt or FireWire 800, Mac formatted hard drive. Then, use either OS X Time Machine app to backup your entire system to the external drive OR purchase, download, install and use a data cloning app, like CarbonCopyCloner or SuperDuper to make an exact and bootable copy (clone) of your entire Mac's internal hard drive.
This step is really needed in case something goes wrong with the install of the new OS or you simply do not like the new OS, you have a very easy to return your Mac to its former working state.
Then, determine if your Mac meets ALL minimum system install requirements.
To install Mavericks, you need one of these Macs:
iMac (Mid-2007 or later)
MacBook (13-inch Aluminum, Late 2008), (13-inch, Early 2009 or later)
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid-2009 or later),
MacBook Pro (15-inch or 17-inch, Mid/Late 2007 or later)
MacBook Air (Late 2008 or later)
Mac mini (Early 2009 or later)
Mac Pro (Early 2008 or later)
Xserve (Early 2009)
Your Mac also needs:
OS X Mountain Lion, Lion, or Snow Leopard v10.6.8 already installed
2 GB or more of memory
8 GB or more of available space
Next,
If you run any older Mac software from the earlier PowerPC Macs, then none of this software will work with the newer OS X versions (10.7 and onward). OS X Snow Leopard had a magical and invisible PowerPC emulation application, called Rosetta, that worked seamlessly in the background that still allowed older PowerPC coded software to still operate in a Intel CPU Mac.
The use of Rosetta ended with OS X Snow Leopard as the Rosetta application was licensed to Apple, from a software company called Transitive, which got bought out, I believe, by IBM and Appe could no longer secure their rights to continue to use Rosetta in later versions of OS X.
So, you would need to check to see if you have software on your Mac that maybe older than, say, 2006 or older.
Also, check for app compatibilty here.
http://roaringapps.com/
If you have any commercial antivirus installed and/or hard drive cleaning apps installed on your Mac, like MacKeeper, CleanMyMac, TuneUoMyMac, MacCleanse, etc. now would be a good time to completely uninstall this apps by doing a Google search to learn how to properly uninstall these types of apps.
These types of apps will only cause your Mac issues later after the install of the new OS X version and you will have to completely uninstall these types of apps later.
Once you have determined all of this, you should be able to find the latest version of Mavericks by clicking on the Mac App Store icon in the OS X Dock and then login to the Mac App Store using your Apple ID and password.
You can then begin the download and installation process of installing OS X 10.9 Mavericks from the Mac App Store. -
What is the best time to set for my iMac intel to get to sleep?
what is the best time to set for my iMac intel to get to sleep? the default is 10 minutes, i am changing it to 1 houirs but i put the sleep time for my monitod 10 minutes. is it decent?
steve359 wrote: The longer it runs, the shorter the expected life (just plain logic),
but if it MUST run 24x7, then likely one has budgeted for a new system
within 3 years anyway.
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For other hardware, a lot will have to do with the internal temps. When it's quite hot here, I allow the computer to sleep more often. But otherwise, it's a bit of this and a bit of that. I wouldn't personally recommend running 24/7, although I know of several here who claim they do, with no apparent adverse effects over many years. -
What is the best virus protection software for imac
Can someone suggest the best anti virus software for an intel based iMac?
If you are really running OS X "Leopard", you should be aware that Apple stopped providing updates for it years ago. On the other hand your profile also indicates you are using a Power Mac, and they do not use Intel CPUs. The good news about that is that the PowerPC platform has become so uncommon that they are extremely unlikely to be the target of any sort of malware or virus attempts. So, more information is required, but lacking that most of the following principles apply equally well to any computer.
There will always be threats to your information security associated with using any Internet - connected communications tool:
You can mitigate those threats by following commonsense practices
Delegating that responsibility to software is an ineffective defense
Assuming that any product will protect you from those threats is a hazardous attitude that is likely to result in neglecting point #1 above.
OS X already includes everything it needs to protect itself from viruses and malware. Keep it that way with software updates from Apple.
A much better question is "how should I protect my Mac":
Never install any product that claims to "clean up", "speed up", "optimize", "boost" or "accelerate" your Mac; to "wash" it, "tune" it, or to make it "shiny". Those claims are absurd.Such products are very aggressively marketed. They are all scams.
Never install pirated or "cracked" software, software obtained from dubious websites, or other questionable sources.
Illegally obtained software is almost certain to contain malware.
"Questionable sources" include but are not limited to spontaneously appearing web pages or popups, download hosting sites such as C net dot com, Softonic dot com, Soft pedia dot com, Download dot com, Mac Update dot com, or any other site whose revenue is primarily derived from junk product advertisements.
If you need to install software that isn't available from the Mac App Store, obtain it only from legitimate sources authorized by the software's developer.
Don’t supply your password in response to a popup window requesting it, unless you know what it is and the reason your credentials are required.
Don’t open email attachments from email addresses that you do not recognize, or click links contained in an email:
Most of these are scams that direct you to fraudulent sites that attempt to convince you to disclose personal information.
Such "phishing" attempts are the 21st century equivalent of a social exploit that has existed since the dawn of civilization. Don’t fall for it.
Apple will never ask you to reveal personal information in an email. If you receive an unexpected email from Apple saying your account will be closed unless you take immediate action, just ignore it. If your iCloud, iTunes, or App Store account becomes disabled for valid reasons, you will know when you try to buy something or log in to this support site, and are unable to.
Don’t install browser extensions unless you understand their purpose. Go to the Safari menu > Preferences > Extensions. If you see any extensions that you do not recognize or understand, simply click the Uninstall button and they will be gone.
Don’t install Java unless you are certain that you need it:
Java, a non-Apple product, is a potential vector for malware. If you are required to use Java, be mindful of that possibility.
Java can be disabled in System Preferences.
Despite its name JavaScript is unrelated to Java. No malware can infect your Mac through JavaScript. It’s OK to leave it enabled.
The same precaution applies to Adobe Flash Player. Newly discovered Flash vulnerabilities appear almost weekly.
Beware spontaneous popups: Safari menu > Preferences > Security > check "Block popup windows".
Popup windows are useful and required for some websites, but unsolicited popups are commonly used to deceive people into installing unwanted software they would never intentionally install.
Popups themselves cannot infect your Mac, but many contain resource-hungry code that will slow down Internet browsing.
If you ever receive a popup window indicating that your Mac is infected with some ick or that you won some prize, it is 100% fraudulent. Ignore it.
The same goes for a spontaneously appearing dialog insisting that you upgrade your video player right this instant. Such popups are frequently associated with sites that promise to deliver "free" movies or other copyrighted content that is not normally "free".
The more insistent it is that you upgrade or install something, the more likely it is to be a scam. Close the window or tab and forget it.
Ignore hyperventilating popular media outlets that thrive by promoting fear and discord with entertainment products arrogantly presented as "news". Learn what real threats actually exist and how to arm yourself against them:
The most serious threat to your data security is phishing. Most of these attempts are pathetic and are easily recognized, but that hasn't stopped prominent public figures from recently succumbing to this age-old scam.
OS X viruses do not exist, but intentionally malicious or poorly written code, created by either nefarious or inept individuals, is nothing new.
Never install something without first knowing what it is, what it does, how it works, and how to get rid of it when you don’t want it any more.
If you elect to use "anti-virus" software, familiarize yourself with its limitations and potential to cause adverse effects, and apply the principle immediately preceding this one.
Most such utilities will only slow down and destabilize your Mac while they look for viruses that do not exist, conveying no benefit whatsoever - other than to make you "feel good" about security, when you should actually be exercising sound judgment, derived from accurate knowledge, based on verifiable facts.
Do install updates from Apple as they become available. No one knows more about Macs and how to protect them than the company that builds them.
Summary: Use common sense and caution when you use your Mac, just like you would in any social context. There is no product, utility, or magic talisman that can protect you from all the evils of mankind. -
I'm buying a new Macbook Pro this week and am wondering what is the best way to copy over the software I have from my existing Macbook Pro to the new one? eg. Photoshop and Office etc. I no longer have the CDs.
Ya know what I'm on a brand new MBP just about 24 hours old and you know whats been working amazingly for me. I have a 27inch iMac as well and i've just connected it to my network and been dragging files and apps across the network onto my new MBP. Its really working fast and its flawless. You could always do that option, Just go into sharing options and turn them on for both Macs. Then just click and drag. Of course they have to both be on the same network for this to be possible.
Look at my network.
Shared is what your looking at. I click on there see all my computers files and then drag the ones i want form its folder to my MBP folders. Hope that helps if your looking for a very simple way on a wireless network. -
What is the best tune up app for my imac?
what is the best tune up app for my imac?
also, I am hesitant to upgrade to Maverick. Is there a list of applications that will not run on Maverick that upgrades will need to be purchased?Here are some general tips to keep your Mac's hard drive trim and slim as possible
You should never, EVER let a conputer hard drive get completely full, EVER!
With Macs and OS X, you shouldn't let the hard drive get below 15 GBs or less of free data space.
If it does, it's time for some hard drive housecleaning.
Follow some of my tips for cleaning out, deleting and archiving data from your Mac's internal hard drive.
Have you emptied your Mac's Trash icon in the Dock?
If you use iPhoto, iPhoto has its own trash that needs to be emptied, also.
If you store images in other locations other than iPhoto, then you will have to weed through these to determine what to archive and what to delete.
If you use Apple Mail app, Apple Mail also has its own trash area that needs to be emptied, too!
Delete any old or no longer needed emails and/or archive to disc, flash drives or external hard drive, older emails you want to save.
Look through your other Mailboxes and other Mail categories to see If there is other mail you can archive and/or delete.
STAY AWAY FROM DELETING ANY FILES FROM OS X SYSTEM FOLDER!
Look through your Documents folder and delete any type of old useless type files like "Read Me" type files.
Again, archive to disc, flash drives, ext. hard drives or delete any old documents you no longer use or immediately need.
Look in your Applications folder, if you have applications you haven't used in a long time, if the app doesn't have a dedicated uninstaller, then you can simply drag it into the OS X Trash icon. IF the application has an uninstaller app, then use it to completely delete the app from your Mac.
To find other large files, download an app called Omni Disk Sweeper.
Download an app called OnyX for your version of OS X.
When you install and launch it, let it do its initial automatic tests, then go to the cleaning and maintenance tabs and run the maintenance tabs that let OnyX clean out all web browser cache files, web browser histories, system cache files, delete old error log files.
Typically, iTunes and iPhoto libraries are the biggest users of HD space.
move these files/data off of your internal drive to the external hard drive and deleted off of the internal hard drive.
If you have any other large folders of personal data or projects, these should be archived or moved, also, to the optical discs, flash drives or external hard drive and then either archived to disc and/or deleted off your internal hard drive.
Good Luck!
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