3G Network switches to Edge all the time, Buttons rattle when shaking-
I originally owned a first generation iPhone (Love it!) but still couldn't resist and got a "3G S" unfortunately I encountered plenty of anomalies with three different ones. If anyone is going through the following, please help acknowledge this to Apple:
first iPhone 3G S - Calls dropped constantly, GPS was "lost" (will give the incorrect location) most of the time.
Second iPhone 3G S (as first replacement) - calls would fail even when the signal showed full service, silence button rattled (loose).
third iPhone 3G S (as second replacement) - I currently have it as of (7/13/09) No signal what-so-ever and when it does the phone doesn't know what the 3G network is because is always on Edge in San Francisco Area (Pacific Heights) to be exact. now I cannot even access "Visual Voice Mail" I get this Welcome to AT&T recording, maps won't work, even safari doesn't load.
I Love Apple and the iPhone's new features but it has disappointed me way beyond that I can handle, today a few minutes later after I got my second replacement I called the store to notify that i had gotten another bad unit and I was told to come back and the geniuses would help me (AGAIN) when I went back I was told to go home, restore the phone and if that didn't work then I could make another appointment [What happened to the products one would take out of the box and be ready to use?] I will return the iPhone tomorrow and I'll get another one when the issues have been resolved.
BTW I would pay those $600 plus the nasty CA tax if Apple would make the iPhones 3G S like the first generation does EVERYBODY like the plastic back?
Has anyone experience the same or similar problems?
ok, got it figured out. Consistently I can do this on my 3g, my daughters 3gs and my 3gs. If you hold the phone at the bottom in your right hand and the palm of your hand is touching the right side bottom of the phone (the battery indicator side lower right), the signal will drop in anywhere from 10 to 60 seconds. If you remove your hand from that side it will come back. I went to AT&T and did it to an employees phone too. Some covers will also cause havoc even though it is made of plastic. I have a silver back case cover made by Ultra in hong kong. My daughter has a plastic case that is chrome plated on the back made by MORE. It blocks the signal when it is on. She had 3g when she walked into her work but when she gets to her desk... it searches, eventually no signal. The chrome plating apparently has an affect on the antenna. I had her remove the cover, 3g came back at her desk location at work. Put my cover on hers and still easily with 3g. So, apparently the hand , some cases or body parts touching that side of the phone will affect your signal. Here is a youtube video I've posted to show you. It's about two minutes long but well worth watching if you are having this problem.: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wlSKr6gAmU
Similar Messages
-
Network Mac PC crashes all the time
I use three Macs and a PC in the office. The PC is only to store files that are used on Macs. My network works, but crashes all the time. I tried changing cables, but still does not work. Anyone have any suggestions? The other PCs on the network running the whole time. Only Macs lose network.
when you turn on the computers, the network operates normally. the only difficulty is that while you are browsing folders on the pc, it takes 15-20 seconds to display the content. In the midle of process, Macs not access more the pc. If you're looking for files, finder just stop. it stops responding. You can't force Finder to restart, you have to turn off the power button. when the engine does not stop responding, and you try to access the PC a message appears: there was a problem to connect.... If you press command K : the was a problem... When one mac dont access the pc, all the Macs dont access the pc.
-
Photoshop CS6 crashes all the time and especially when using the type tool... please help!
Photoshop CS6 crashes all the time and especially when using the type tool... please help!
Since I did not have this problem with CS5 or CS4, I can only assume something is not right with Photoshop CS6... below is my video card info:
ATI Radeon HD 4850:
Chipset Model: ATI Radeon HD 4850
Type: GPU
Bus: PCIe
PCIe Lane Width: x16
VRAM (Total): 512 MB
Vendor: ATI (0x1002)
Device ID: 0x944a
Revision ID: 0x0000
ROM Revision: 113-B9110C-425
EFI Driver Version: 01.00.383
Displays:
iMac:
Resolution: 2560 x 1440
Pixel Depth: 32-Bit Color (ARGB8888)
Main Display: Yes
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Built-In: Yes
Connection Type: DisplayPort
Cinema HD:
Resolution: 1920 x 1200
Pixel Depth: 32-Bit Color (ARGB8888)
Display Serial Number: 2A80273WXMN
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Rotation: Supported -
I have edited a movie in Final Cut Pro and the video has been smooth all the time.
Now, when the one hour long movie is ready the video seem to paus every 5 sec (only for half a second). It does it all the way through the movies.
What is wrong? All the sudden.We need info, info, info!
What version of FCP X?
Did you render? what are the project specs? do you use many compound clips? how much ram, hard drive space, how is the hard drive connected?
It looks like your mac can't keep up. Maybe the bottleneck is the hard drive, or something else.
Try exporting a master file and see if the video is ok.
Also, keep Activity Monitor open and see how much memory pressure you've got. -
Has anybody experienced the iPhone off switch not working all the time.
I have an iPhone 5, it's about 16 months old and it has experienced an annoying issue. The off button does not work all the time, sometimes I have to press it multiple times and other times it just works. The worst case is when it does not work at all, very frustrating. I didn't expect this type of issue for a phone that is not even a year and a half old.
I did some searching on the internet and there are 2 schools of thought, the first is that this is a hardware fault and Apple know about it but won't admit it because it would cost them too much to repair/replace phones with the issue. The second school of thought is that it is a software issue and a backup/reset/restore will fix it; I tried doing this but it did not resolve the issue.
Further digging seemed to suggest that it was really a hardware fault and the only option was to get a refurb from Apple for a ton of money, not cool.
Anyway, if anyone has any more information that could help me resolve this issue I would greatly appreciate it.
//*eggbox23@diesel vdub, thanks for your suggestion, I setup an appointment with the Genius Bar and found out in about 5 minutes that everything I have read up on so far is true.
Firstly the technician admitted that there is a sporadic fault on the iPhone 4s and iPhone 5 switches, something to do with the design of the switch that included a rubber element that rolls up (whatever that means) and causes the switch to fail. He then indicated that the iPhone 5s does not have the issue because the switch has been completely redesigned.
Since I was stupid enough to not take out the extended warranty the only options he gave me were to purchase a new phone or to get a refurb for $269, not cool. Why would anyone think that a phone would not work correctly for 2 whole years when the phone only cost about $600!
Since I have about 7-8 months left on my phone contract I am not prepared to pay for either option. I find it amazing that a phone can develop this type of issue in such a short time and then expect the customer to pay for their failures. Apple supposedly sells a very high quality product for a very high price, looks like they have taken a step back from this philosophy.
I am disappointed in the options that he gave me (I don't blame the technician) but I suppose I expected more from Apple in terms of quality and service.
//*eggbox23 -
Mail accessing the internet all the time and hangs when closing or deleting
Why is it every time I look at my DSL modem when Mail is open there is activity and when I close Mail it stops? It's only set to get the mail every 5 min but it's constantly accessing the internet. The other problem is that it seems to hang when closing and sometimes it takes several mins before it will delete an email that I wanted it to delete. Any ideas? I'm running 10.4.4 with a FRESH install, not an upgrade. I only have .Mac mail accounts so there is no other active accounts that Mail has to access to get mail.
This has only been going on since I upgraded to 10.4+ so I tried to reload the 10.4 several times without any change.
Thanks, JasonOkay I used the Activity Monitor to check out mail while it was using the DSL connection. It was using 1.20% CPU and receiving 7 packets/sec. It's memory usage was slowly but steadily climbing until I shut it down. Then all the network activity stopped. As I said before this seems to start after mail has been open but not used for about 20-30 min and doesn't stop until I close mail.
Any ideas. Initially I was worried that there was an exploit in the new mail and someone was using it to access my mac. Is this something worth worrying about or is this a Mail quirk that will be patched later? Anyone else having this issue. I'm not even sure it's a problem but I don't see why Mail would be constantly downloading packets????
Jason -
here is my Etre Report
EtreCheck version: 1.9.11 (43) - report generated 2 June 2014 17:21:48 BST
Hardware Information:
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012)
MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro9,2
1 2.9 GHz Intel Core i7 CPU: 2 cores
8 GB RAM
Video Information:
Intel HD Graphics 4000 - VRAM: (null)
System Software:
OS X 10.9.3 (13D65) - Uptime: 0 days 1:56:33
Disk Information:
APPLE HDD HTS547575A9E384 disk0 : (750.16 GB)
EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted>: 209.7 MB
Macintosh HD (disk0s2) / [Startup]: 749.3 GB (266.94 GB free)
Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted>: 650 MB
MATSHITADVD-R UJ-8A8
USB Information:
Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
Apple Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
Apple Inc. BRCM20702 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
Thunderbolt Information:
Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Gatekeeper:
Mac App Store and identified developers
Kernel Extensions:
[not loaded] com.leapfrog.codeless.kext (2) Support
[not loaded] com.leapfrog.driver.LfConnectDriver (1.9.8 - SDK 10.8) Support
Launch Daemons:
[loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist Support
[loaded] com.adobe.SwitchBoard.plist Support
[loaded] com.leapfrog.connect.authdaemon.plist Support
Launch Agents:
[not loaded] com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist Support
User Launch Agents:
[loaded] com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist Support
[running] com.leapfrog.connect.monitor.plist Support
User Login Items:
iTunesHelper
Dropbox
LivedriveCore
Internet Plug-ins:
FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 13.0.0.214 - SDK 10.6 Support
Flash Player: Version: 13.0.0.214 - SDK 10.6 Support
AdobeExManDetect: Version: AdobeExManDetect 1.1.0.0 - SDK 10.7 Support
QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
Default Browser: Version: 537 - SDK 10.9
Audio Plug-ins:
BluetoothAudioPlugIn: Version: 1.0 - SDK 10.9
AirPlay: Version: 2.0 - SDK 10.9
AppleAVBAudio: Version: 203.2 - SDK 10.9
iSightAudio: Version: 7.7.3 - SDK 10.9
iTunes Plug-ins:
Quartz Composer Visualizer: Version: 1.4 - SDK 10.9
3rd Party Preference Panes:
Flash Player Support
Time Machine:
Time Machine not configured!
Top Processes by CPU:
3% WindowServer
1% fontd
0% imagent
Top Processes by Memory:
172 MB Safari
139 MB iTunes
82 MB com.apple.WebKit.WebContent
82 MB Finder
49 MB mds_stores
Virtual Memory Information:
4.12 GB Free RAM
1.46 GB Active RAM
1.73 GB Inactive RAM
703 MB Wired RAM
1.14 GB Page-ins
0 B Page-outsRhunter22,
your EtreCheck report isn’t showing any obvious suspect. If you boot into Safe mode and log in, does your MacBook Pro behave similarly then? -
The bookmarks, cookies, history all the time are deleted when I start Firefox and I need to import them all the time.
I have version 3.6.12This can be a problem with the file places.sqlite that stores the bookmarks and the history.
See:
* http://kb.mozillazine.org/Bookmarks_not_saved
* http://kb.mozillazine.org/Locked_or_damaged_places.sqlite -
HT201250 must I keep the computer on all the time for time machine to do back ups
Must I keep my computer on at all times to get the time machine to do updates ? If not how do I go about updateing time machine on a regular basis
It depends on how much backing up you want. Time Machine will do backups if you have it turned on (in Time Machine Preferences), and if you have your computer connected to a backup drive (either wired or wirelessly, like a Time Capsule), that is specified in TM Preferences, and is also turned on. So, for example, I keep my two macs turned on all the time, and I keep Time Machine turned off. When I am not using my macs they sleep. I have external USB drives for backup via Time Machine, but I don't keep them on and connected all the time. When I think of it, which is about once a week, I'll hook them up, power them on, and do a manual backup: I turn Time Machine on and tell it to backup. When I have more critical documents, I keep them backed up on Dropbox, or iCloud, so I know that every time I finish using them and close them they are backed up. If you want to have more complete backups, then you would keep your computer always connected to your backup drives, and the drives would always be powered on and time machine would always be turned on. You could either have all of these turned on all the time, or just when you are using them and power them all down when you are not using them, or have them powered on all the time, but set the computer to sleep when you are not using it. It just depends on what you are comfortable with in terms of backups.
-
Mac Mini Fan on all the time almost...
I'm noticing that my Mini fan is on almost all the time now, not when the computer is at rest, but pretty much when I do any copying of files or run multiple programs. Could that be a sign of something wrong? Maybe I have bad RAM. Gets pretty loud...
Standard reasons for a loud fan in your situation would be:
1) Mini sitting on or near other heat producing equipment;
2) Mini not getting free access to room temperature air;
3) Mini's vents clogged by dust or animal hair -- gentle vacuuming can help here. I don't recommend compressed "air".
It's hard to see how "bad RAM" would figure into this problem.
Keep in mind that the Mini's fan is always running when the computer is on; but normally it spins slowly enough that you don't hear it. -
Is it better to turn off iPhone at night, or just leave on all the time?
This has often been asked of computers as well - Is it generally thought better to turn the iphone off at night and charge it (if needed) or just let it stay in standby mode all the time and plug in to charge when needed. In other words, just leave it on all the time and sleep when not in use (like my MBP), or on/off, on/off, on/off, etc...
I'd leave it on. I would however shut down and restart the phone once a week or so. Not that it will do anything (i don't think)... but it may keep your phone healthy if there are any bugs in memory.
-
Iphone5c - the speaker reduce all the time to silent
HI
I have iphone 5c with the below problem
the speaker reduced all the time to slilent
when i reboot the iphone is coming ok for not more than few hours
last firmware installHey Dvir_Mr!
Here is an article that can help you troubleshoot this issue with your iPhone:
iPhone: No sound or distorted sound from speaker
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts5180
Thanks for using the Apple Support Communities!
Cheers,
Braden -
ADOBE PRIEMERE ELEMENTS QUITS UNEXPECTEDLY ALL THE TIME!?
Ok I have a Latitude D 530 Laptop with Adobe Priemere Elements 8 (Also Windows 7). It
crashes all the time. Sometimes when I try to insert footage. Sometimes when I try
to edit or add an effect. It laggs up and then quits with this error message.PrE8 seems excessively picky about the input video formats (foolish for a day with so many sources)
Well, not really foolish. With new CODEC's and variations on older ones, coming out every month, decisions must be made to define what works best for an editing program. In the case of Adobe, the options were chosen to focus on DV-AVI Type II (the standard of SD video), HDV (the standard of HD video) and AVCHD (an emerging standard for consumer HD video, but requiring a very powerful computer). The answer for a consumer is to convert their footage to one of those standards.
One should also be aware that the vast majority of CODEC's are not designed to be edited to being with. They are delivery-only formats and even if they can be edited, the results will be low quality. There is no way around this. It is a choice that too many camera mfgrs. make, assuming that their customers will only view, or directly upload to YouTube, or similar, and never try to edit this material.
It is first incumbent on the consumer to know what format/CODEC their camera is using, and then either find an NLE that will work best with that, or convert that footage to work with the NLE of their choice. Some NLE's handle certain formats/CODEC's, than do others. I have six NLE's, and five of those are used as "tools," to get all sorts of odd footage into my NLE of choice, PrPro. I also have several conversion programs, that are not NLE's. Again, my goal is to get the odd footage into a form that will work perfectly (except for that lower quality, but I cannot do anything about that) in PrPro.
I am waiting for some new CODEC's to hit the consumer market about now, that will create even more problems.
To me, the "crime" is that camera mfgrs. do not go into detail on what the created footage is, how to edit it, and then that they do not provide their version of the CODEC to allow for smooth editing. No NLE can anticipate what will become "hot" any quarter. The camera mfgrs. know what their product produces, but they choose to not inform the buyer, nor do they make it easy for their buyer to edit the resultant footage. That is where one's venom should be directed. Unfortunately, even the majority of reviewers do not concentrate on the editability of the resultant footage. Most either do not know about editing, or they choose to ignore that aspect. The poor consumer is stuck with delivery-only footage, and a boatload of NLE's, that cannot handle it.
To all, who are having problems with the various delivery-only CODEC's - find an NLE that will handle it, and use that one. Some are better with some footage, than are others. Go with what works for you, regardless of which software company offers it.
Even the industry standard image editing program, Adobe Photoshop, is particular about how the image data header is written, especially with JPEG images. I often get failures to open/parse some JPEG files in PS. However, Ulead PhotoImpact, IrfanView and ThumbsPlus will open those poorly written JPEG files fine. I just do a Save from those, and get a properly written JPEG, to edit in PS. Those other programs are cheap, or even free, and PS is not cheap, nor is it free. It is just particular, that's all.
Just my observations,
Hunt -
T61 fan runs all the time on AC, does not when on battery
Hello,
with the lastest BIOS (and those before) my T61's (8889) fan runs all the time when it is AC powered. (After initial start it begins with 0, then ~2500 rpm, then ~3100 rpm and then stays there even if idle).
When on battery under the same circumstances, it doesn't go above ~2500rpm (which is far less noisy then the ~3100rpm level) and often it even stops.
As far as the BIOS settings allow, it is trimmed to max. power saving also when AC powered but still it's getting on my nerves.
Can Lenovo please look into this and make it as quiet as it is on battery also when on AC?
P.S. I cannot see that the temperature levels as reported through ACPI are any higher on AC then on battery, so I don't understand why the fan has to run all the time that loud when on AC.
Thanks,
DanielHi Daniel,
There are two options for you to consider:
1) Better CPU speed management:
- Install a utility called "RMClock" to better manage the CPU (it's a free utility that throttles the CPU to run at different speeds depending on the needs - the CPU speeds increase automatically to full power when required).
- By regulating the CPU speed, the fan will not need to work that often to expell hot air, because the CPU generates much less heat.
- you will find a quick "how-to" for using RMClock --> HERE
2) BIOS thermal management
- You can change the BIOS settings for the "thermal management" (enter BIOS, choose "Config", then "Thermal Management" ) . Change the fan control from "performance" to "battery optimized" under the "plugged-in" option. This will reduce the frequency with which the fan runs, but beware that if your system is plugged in and you're not using any CPU management - meaning that your CPU is running at full speed, then the system will heat up more than you'll be comfortable with!!
I would therefore suggest that you use a CPU throttling management utility (like RMClock mentioned above) together with the thermal management option in your BIOS. This will reduce the frequency with which the fan starts and operates but still keeping the system cool.
A completely different approach is to install and use "Thinkpad Fan Control" -- read this thread ... Be aware that the utility takes a lot of tweaking to get the settings right, but also be aware that you can damage your system if you do not make the right settings!!!
Hope this helps!
Steve
Message Edited by icantux on 07-09-2008 02:18 PM -
Can not see my Airport in the list of Wifi networks and is blinking organge all the time
Can not see my airport on the list of WiFi networks and is blinking orange all the time. Tried to reset several times.
Do you have a Mac or idevice for setting up the Express? It does require a later utility than is available for windows.
You might be able to setup with the v5 utility in windows but there is no guarantee.
You should use a simple name both for the base and the wireless. eg AEXgen2 base name and AEXwifi for wireless name.. that is if you get access.
Maybe you are looking for
-
Need help diagnosing cause of printing issue w/ image distortion
Hello, I'm looking for some expert advice for my print issue with image distortion (see above) on my files once setup and proofed by my printer. I have a large PSD background file out of photoshop (CMYK, 170mb psd) that is being placed into an InDesi
-
Where to see the logic for 0FYEAR (SAP Exit)
There is already an SAP exit 0FYEAR. There is a requirement to make ZFYEAR1 just like 0FYEAR. So, i want to see where the code (logic) for 0FYEAR is present so that i can write the the same for my custom variable(ZFYEAR1) in CMOD. Can anyone help me
-
Hi, I used to be able to play my videos saved from my iPhone 4 and previously 3G from iPhoto. Now, when I click on a video nothing happens and they will not play. Any help is greatly appreciated... Mike
-
I have an .img file of Windows 7 that I downloaded from my university's software license. Disk Utility and Boot Camp assistant both failed to image my USB drive so I did it with terminal. However, when I go to install it, boot camp says that it can't
-
When I click on a hot link on a web site, the page opens as a new tab, but is blank.