Action Shot

Is there any photo/camera app for Iphone 4 that does the same Action Shot that Samsung Galaxy s does?

The only things that can run on an iPhone come from the App store... search there.
Here's a good app search site... http://appshopper.com/
And here's an Action Shot search from there... http://appshopper.com/search/?search=action+shot

Similar Messages

Trouble with low light action shots on 70d

I just went from a T3i to a 70D. I seem to have trouble with action shots in low light situations, any suggestions on setting...
Solved!
Go to Solution.

"I just went from a T3i to a 70D"
... and didn't upgrade your lens inventory? Although the 70D will be better in most cases compared to a Rebel T3i, it is the lens. It is always the lens.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

G15 action shot

I have recently purchased a G15 after several year of using G7. I am surprise to find a very limited scene modes on my G15. I'm I missing something or have I make a mistake. I do a lot of outdoor shooting at different landscape, views and action shots which the G7 made very simple. Have I made a mistake with G15?
Your comment are appreciated. Thank you

I'd guess that Canon decided that buyers would be photographers rather than picture takers. As such they'd know what setting do the best job in every situation. The G7 used a mode dial to access programmed settings for each of the things you've named such as scene mode, sport mode, night etc. As such there was a built in set of settings that used the meter reading to decide what ISO, shutter speed & aperture MIGHT give you a good photo. For those who've taken the time to learn the basic rules of photography doing the same or a better job on determining which settings to use is relatively simple, & they'll just set the camera up to get the shot & if it's off a bit they'll reset & shoot again.
Fortunately it's easy to see results thanks to digital cameras & LCD's so now that you've spent the money take a bit of time to learn the basics & practice them learning & advancing as you go. For action you use the Tv mode (to set the Time Value or Shutter Speed). You need to pick a shutter speed setting that's high enough to freeze the action, but unlike the built in program of the G7 you pick a more perfectly matched shutter speed. For Landscapes you usually use Av mode (aperture value) & learn what different settings do.
No matter which camera you buy it's going to use the same combination of things to produce good photos, and that combination matches the ISO, the shutter speed & correct aperture to do it. No magic, just the rules that control an exposure, and more advanced cameras allow the user the control over those things.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Lumia 928 camera - Action shot

I'm trying to figure out how to do something like what I see here with my 928. I don't have an 'Action Shot' option, and can't seem to find any answer anywhere.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpNxk_0m5ck

Action shot is part of the new Smart Camera application that is included with the 925 but will be made available for other Lumia WP 8 devices later this summer.

I have a Rebel T3i zoom for action shots??

I received this camera last year for Christmas. I wanted it to take action shots of my son playing soccer and my daughter horseback riding. It has the lense it came with and I'm wondering if I need to upgrade my lense to get great pictures. I can't seem to zoom in when it's set to action mode is that normal? I'm VERY new to photography. I've read through the users manual but not getting anywhere fast. If it's the lense then which lense would be sufficient for what I would like to do?

We can't tell you much without knowing what lens you've been using but if you want to shoot day time sports there are a few zooms which can do a good to great job but night sports is a very different thing. Be prepared to dig deep if you're really serious but if you can live with good vs great image quality (No matter which way you go there is a learning curve so allow some time to perfect your technique). On the lower end I'd recommend researching the Tamron 70-300 VC & Canon 70-300 IS. A better lens but also shorter reach wise is the Canon 70-200 f4 L or better yet (& more $) is the 70-200 f4 L IS and even more expensive are the 70-300 L IS & 100-400 L IS but it may be a bit long at the wide end for the soccer.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Elements 11 - Merge & Align Action Shots

Can Elements 11 Merge & Align 4 action photos into a single photo? I want to merge 4 continue shots of a skaterboarder into a single photo with the rider appearng in the final photo 4x.

Your best way to do this is to read this article:
<http://help.adobe.com/en_US/photoshop/cs/using/WSfd1234e1c4b69f30ea53e41001031ab64-75e8a.h tml>
Good luck.

Action shots problems

I was given DV-avi file. The final product will be viewed on computer monitors and also on TV sets.
This avi file plays fine when viewed on my computer. To finalize the project, I used automatic transcoding, and I created a folder and also an image.
When I view the image with VLC media player, whenever there is fast panning or a lot of movement, I can detect some annoying horizontal lines, jiggling slightly right and left. Whenever there is no fast movement, which is most of the time, it is perfect. The problem is with these few areas.
On the other hand, when I view the files in the folder with PowerDVD, it is not as bad.
My question is: is it better to remedy this problem in Premiere or in Encore (I have version CS3)
I checked the forums, I tried de-interlacing in Premiere, progressive reanscoding in Encore, all sorts of combinations. I am not happy with the results, there is always something that isn`t right.
I will appreciate your help and advise, to be able to solve this problem.
Thanking you in advance.

Christine,
The "fast motion" aspect can be addressed in either location: PP, or Encore. You will want to do a manual Transcode setting for that/those Asset(s). This will then probably bring in bit-budgeting for the full Project.
There are several good threads of bit-budgeting, with links to bit-budgeting calculators and suggestions on this forum. I am not sure that there is as much useful info on the PP forums, but there might be.
Look closely for comments by Neil, Ruud and Jeff. They each usually link to other sources of info, that really become relevent, when you have to address individual Assets. It's not a really easy task, but they all go a long way to simplify the task.
Jeff's book, "Focal Easy Guide to Encore2," covers some of the aspects of individual Asset Transcodes. Do not let the "Encore2" bit bother you. Most is the same for all versions.
Good luck,
Hunt

What's best "reasonable priced" flash for a 7d (action photos)

I don't mind going used. I need something that will help With indoor warehouse type racing facility's with poor lighting.
Www.rc-ops.com

Not sure what you consider "reasonably priced"...
430EX II is about $270 new (Amazon). You might find it for a bit less used or a refurb at the Canon online store.
It's a pretty nice flash... Plenty of power, without being too large.
You also might want to look at 550EX or 580EX, 580EX II used... these are larger, but have the advantage of being able to use with CP-E4 or CP-E3 auxiliary battery pack. If you are doing action shots, you might want an external battery pack to speed up recycling. (Also use quality rechargeable AAs in everything, for faster recycling).
420EX, 430EX and 430EX II can't be used with a CP-E4, but there are third party battrey packs that will work with them.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Outdoor sports action photography

I love taking pictures of drag racing cars. I want to be able to get more control of depth but want to use the repeat shutter setting. How can I get the depth of field and make the car the main focus of the picture in an action shot?

I haven't shot the drags since the days of manual focus lenses & film so it's going to be much easier to learn now. Your goal is very similar to what I do shoot these days & I have an article on line that should be a good start and then combine that info with my motorsports comments in a thread here. You may need to buy a lens (depending on what you already have) & if so I recommend either the 70-200 f4 L or the 70-300 IS as good choices.
On line article is here
http://www.rccanada.ca/rccforum/showthread.php?t=147971
Motorsports comments are here
http://forums.usa.canon.com/t5/Lenses/Canon-EF400mm-f5-6-versus-Canon-EF100-400mm-f4-5-f5-6/td-p/300...
Learning good panning technique will take a while, but it's the trick to getting the right result when combined with the right shutter speed.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Help with correct setting for Cannon Power shot SX20 IS Sport setting. Blurred

Looking for advise on camera setting for action shots. All the photo's on "Sport " setting are blurred. "Auto" and I miss the action. I thought this camera was suitable for taking some decent shots of my son on the lacrosse field. Look forward to hearing back from someone.
Thanks~

SEE
http://forums.usa.canon.com/t5/EOS/The-50D-has-a-sports-mode-What-is-the-same-mode-on-the-7D/m-p/152...
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Make slow motion with a clip shot at 25fps

I shot a bunch of clips at 25fps, but now I want to add them to the timeline so they will playback in slow motion but the audio (speech interviews) remains at normal speed. Is this possible, or did I need to have shot the clip at a faster rate in the first place?

Maybe I didn't explain my question well enough, but it does work. I placed my audio recording in it's own track, and placed the video action shots in their own video track, selected the video track only and used rate stretch and dragged it to the length of the audio. Voila, audio plays at normal speed and the separate video clip plays at 45%.

Good Camera for sports & action

I am a photographer for a independent wrestling company and looking to invest in a new camera that matches the quality I need to take quite a few Action shots and fast speed photos I need advice with what would be a good camera for sports or alot of action I need something that will be capable of taking photos when there is alot of movement and not blurr the picture. also that will be good with keeping battery power that wont need to be charged as often or have batteries replaced frequently because these shows can be 1-3 hours long and I dont have time to rotate batteries or worry if the photo is blurred out. if someone can suggest or guide me to a camera that might be affordable or fit the description I will greatly appreciate it I would use this camera often so its got to be something that will be reliable with the job I have

+1 for the D90. Or if a Canon interests you, Canon's T1i is about the same class as the Nikon D90. You'll need to handle both to see which one appeals to you. Or if you are thinking of semi-pro/pro class bodies, look for a used Nikon D300 (can be found used for around $1100) or a new Canon 50D ($1300 @ BB). The 50D kinda falls between the D90 and D300. The 50D and D300 will be bigger than the T1i and D90 physically so if you have smaller hands these may be easier.
Lenses. Since wrestling events I've been too (yes I'll admit I've gone to a WWE event a couple times) the rings are pretty well lit. You may get away with a straight f/4.
Canon has a nice 17-40 ($840) but that may be a bit wide IMO. Maybe start with a 24-105 f/4 IS USM($1250). Only experience I've had with Canon lenses is when I play with friends Canons.
Nikon really doesnt have much for a straight f/4 lens in a range like Canon does (which irks me since theres times I dont need a f/2.8 nor in a shoot where the lense could get damaged). Also Nikon lenses arent exactly cheap and are a bit more $$$ than its Canons counterparts. But the glass IS extremely high quality. For fast action I wouldnt use 3rd party lenses for a Nikon. Nikons AF-S (focus motors are built in the lens) snaps instantly into focus. A screw drive lense (Nikon AF-D) uses the focus motor in the body and is slightly slower. Even my Nikon AF-S 600mm f/4 literally snaps into focus on 550mph jets at airshows. I have a few 3rd party lenses and even though the IQ of the lens is near Nikon quality, focus speed isnt as fast (even Sigma's HSM lenses dont focus as fast as AF-S in my experience).
Which ever brand you get, Canon or Nikon, they are both high quality equipment. I always recommend only these two brands of cameras for DSLR's. These are the two top dogs.
King of the World...

Timeline playing back very choppy over multiformat video.

Hi Guys,
I am editing some behind the scenes footage for a movie our studio is making. A lot of the media has come from different sources. Some red, some mpeg4 etc. The Mac i am using is a Quad Core Mac Pro... technically it should be powerful enough to play over all these fine. But even when everything is rendered, it is very choppy. So much so, that to check my audio is in synch for some of the action shots, i have to export it as a Quicktime and play it back and check it that way.
Now i have tried RT in unlimited and safe... but it still happens. Does anyone have any possible solutions at all?
Any help would be much appreciated,
thanks in advance.

Please give your full system specifications, what computer, what drives, what camera or deck, how everything's connected, what settings are on the media, what settings you're using in Final Cut, and finally what version of the software, of the OS, and of QuickTime you are using.

Time to upgrade from my EOS 10D. Need advice.

I purchased my EOS 10D back in 2000 as a way to reclaim control of image processing after losing access to a darkroom when I graduated from college. Although it has served me well for everyday and semi-professional shots, it's now a relic by today's standards. I need to upgrade to something that will keep me happy for a while without breaking the bank. But there are so many Canon digital SLRs from which to choose, I just don't know which one would be best.
Any help anyone can offer will be greatly appreciated.
JCB

Since I have never really invested a lot of money in lighting equipment, most of what I shoot is outdoors: scenery, wildlife, flowers, etc. And as an avid dog lover, I enjoy shooting my three Parson Russell Terriers more than anything--portrature, action shots, etc. I own a bakery for dogs as well, so I use the 10D for events such as "Photos with Frosty," where I do use a basic lighting setup and external flash to ensure that people get what appears to be a professional image of their pups. For everyday shooting, I use a Quantaray 19-200mm 1:3.5 - 6.3. I also have a Tokino 20-35mm 1:3.5 - 4.5 and a Tamraon 70-300 1:4 - 5.6 (the latter I really don't like much).
As to what's important to me, I guess it would be to contiue to do the things I have been doing with some versatility to allow me to try my hand at other things. As far as budget, I could go up to $1,500 but have an idea that I could get something much better than the 10D for a lot less than that. Today, for Photos with Rudolph (this year's character), I used an employee's T3i and was impressed. It was light and speedy, and the AF seemed far superior to my old (and beloved) 10D.
Thank you for getting back to me on this. It's a big purchase, and there are so many options. I don't mind spending money, but I don't want to waste it either. When I bought my 10D 12 years ago, the Rebel was sort of a joke. Now it seems that the Rebel I used today made my 10D obsolete.

Speedlight setup for 7d and other settings

So I'm very new to "action photography" specific to radio controlled cars. I have a canon 7D. I have learned how to set the c1-c3 to custom settings. For now I use the green "square" setting for group photo's and still "shop" photo's. I'm perfectly happy for now with the results my 7d produces in respect to those photo's. I just got the YONGNUO speedlite today. Here are the constants of my shooting:
1. Warehouse type lighting(not good especially when setting the apeture speed to about 1000) dark photo's.
2. the next few months (until spring) will be same setting
I want to set c1-c3 to cover action shots within a range of these poorly lighted facilitys
so any suggestions on what I shoudl set them too and what the best settings I should set my speedlight to???
thanks again, this is one of the best forums I have ever been to for ANY subject
Www.rc-ops.com

I don't have a Yongnuo flash. I use a bunch of Canon 550EX and 580EX II flashes and am most familiar with them. So the following may or may not be exactly what you can do with your flash... But it's what I'd do with my flashes.
A flash can be used in a warehouse lighting situation, so long as you are just trying to illuminate a specific item and not the entire warehouse. I suspect you won't be able to bounce the flash off ceiling or walls, so will probably need to direct it right at your subject. That may or may not give you the results you want. But, what the heck, give it a try and see if the results are what you wanted...
If you are using a longer telephoto lens, you might also need a flash extender to concentrate the light farther away. Most flashes are designed for up to about 100 or 135mm. Using 200mm or 300mm lens with them might be unsatisfactory without an extender (link is to the only one I found quickly that's specifically for Yongnuo flashes, you might shop around... I use a different type for my Canon flashes). A flash extender can bump lighting strength by 2 or 3 stops at a typical telephoto distances.
Now try this...
Set your camera to 1/250 shutter speed, manual mode (M), and put the flash in ETTL. You control the reach (distance) of the flash with the lens aperture... the larger aperture, the farther the flash will reach. Use a smaller aperture for closer distances, to prevent blowing out images. Turn off Auto ISO. Set your camera's ISO a bit below what it would need to record the ambient light with the shutter speed and aperture combo you're using. At the same time, be aware that the higher the ISO you use also increases the flash's effective reach at any given aperture. You have to strike a balance, where you get the reach you need but keep the ISO low enough to make the flash the primary or main (or only) light source.
Using M makes the flash the main light source, as far as the camera is concerned. ETTL will still provide auto exposure, even though the camera is set to M with Auto ISO turned off. Using flash as the primary light source (overpowering the ambient lighting), will eliminate most or all problems with the color of mixed lighting. Use the "Flash" white balance setting on your camera (it might do it automatically if left in Auto White Balance, once the camera senses a flash is being used).
You can still use Flash Exposure Compensation to increase or decrease the exposures you're getting.
The main reason to set up this way is that the flash will act like a relatively fast shutter speed, around 1/720 is typical with most flashes. That will freeze relatively fast action. You could even slow the camera's shutter down to 1/200, 1/160, 1/125, 1/60... It would matter because the camera's shutter speed doesn't really determine the exposure, so long as it's not so slow that ambient light starts to be recorded. In other words, the flash is acting like a shutter, instead of the camera's shutter.
If some ambient light is still being recorded, you can see some odd (or interesting) ghosting effects. You have a choice... set the flash to rear curtain sync so that the ghosting "trails" the subject and looks more realistic.... or you can decrease your ISO, so that less ambient light is being recorded at your chosen aperture and shutter speed. (Note: You cannot use rear curtain sync and HSS at the same time, see below.)
If the flash itself isn't fast enough to freeze the action, you will have no choice but to use High Speed Sync (HSS). That's usually set on the flash itself and it seriously limits the distance your flash can reach, but allows you to bump up your shutter speed to better freeze action... to be able to get enough reach, use the lowest shutter speed you can.... try around 1/800 or 1/1000, 1/1250... the faster your shutter speed, the less reach of the flash.
Unless you shoot in the same location frequently, the lighting there is very consistent and you want the same sort of results all the time, you may or may not be able to use one of the presets (C1, C2, C3) the way you're trying to do.
Be sure to turn off Auto ISO. And do not use any of the camera's auto exposure modes (Av, Tv, P). Those will force the flash to FILL mode, and try to expose based on the ambient light as the main source. You'll get too slow shutter speeds, or too shallow depth of field due to too large an aperture, or too high an ISO
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Action Shot

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