All my prints using: Lightroom 5, printer color management turned off, and non-generic ICC profile (e.g. Epson Premium Glossy) have magenta tint or cast

I'm using PC with: Windows 8.1, 64bit, Lightroom 5.4, Epson R3000, 6.75 (latest) driver, color management turned off in printer settings, Lightroom configured to manage color.  If I use a generic ICC profile such as Epson sRGB, the prints look OK.  But when I use any ICC profile dedicated to my paper and printer combination, such as Epson Premium Glossy, or one created using ColorMunki print profile, the prints all have a medium to heavy magenta tint or cast.  The effect can be seen before I even print in the Epson Print Preview.  Yet when I soft proof, I don't see this effect.  I suspect the problem lies somewhere in the CMM process, but I can't pin it down.  Any tips or suggestions are appreciated.

Thank you kindly for your insightful response.  As it turns out, the answer is half correct.  I've found others who'll say the same thing, that double color management will lead to a very magenta result.  I believe this was certainly the case when I first started playing with the settings,  Where I went wrong, is that after I corrected my settings by turning off printer manages color and letting Lightroom do the color management, is that the Epson Print Preview was still showing magenta with certain profiles.  Not wanting to waste more money on paper and ink, I used the preview to gauge whether I was going to get a normal print or not.  Then one day I ignored the print preview's magenta cast as a 'warning' and I went ahead printed the photo anyways.  Because I used a profile that I created with ColorMunki Photo, the picture came out perfect (i.e. a very good match to what I was seeing in Lightoom on my monitor).  The lesson learned is that for judging the final color correctness, the Epson Print Preview can be way off target and your best bet is to ignore it.

Similar Messages

  • I can not take pictures or back up my phone due to error message not enough storage.I have all of my data turned off and still can not back phone up.? I have deleted lot of pics and messages and still get message..

    I can not take pictures or even back my phone up due to error message not enough storage I have went into manage storage and turned all my apps to off and I still get error. I also have deleted a ton of pictures and apps.

    Hi there mistib,
    You may find the information in the article below helpful.
    iOS: "Not enough free space" alert when trying to sync
    http://support.apple.com/kb/ts1503
    -Griff W.

  • HT1438 All of a sudden, my IPhone (3G) "turned off" and I can't get it to power back up.  I'm, therefore, reluctant to take the SIM card out to even check the serial number to contact tech support.  Any ideas?  Is there a reset button to try?

    All of a sudden my IPhone (3G, I think) "turned off" and won't power back up.  I know it's not the battery, but I have it plugged in anyway.  Any suggestions?

    Hold down the power and home buttons at the same time for 15-20 seconds. You should see the Apple logo and it should re-boot.

  • Color Management, Photoshop CS3 and Epson Inkjet Printer

    I have been down this road before but here goes again...
    Im using Photoshop CS3.
    Im printing on an Epson Stylus Photo RX680 using Photo quality inkjet paper.
    I know this printer is capable of very good quality prints.
    Thing is I can not figure out the correct combination of color management settings to get a decent print out of Photoshop or InDesign.
    I have read that you are supposed to turn off all printer color management and let Adobe manage the color. Doesnt seem to work.
    I just get overly magenta images that look awful.
    If I let the Epson color management control color I can get a lot closer but the print out is far from accurate or high quality.
    So what the heck IS the correct protocol for printing to an Epson inkjet printer from an Adobe app.
    BTW, I do seem to get a fairly decent print out of something like a PDF which I understand does its own postscript conversion before hitting the printer.
    Is this what my issue is?
    Does Photoshop or InDesign require postscript ripper software to get decent results out of an inkjet printer?

    Have spent hours with both Adobe and Epson support people. I've read several of these forums. Is there an insurmountable problem with CS3 and Epson (2200/2400 are mine)? I have the Leopard patches and upgrade 10.5.4.
    With Photoshop managing the color I get prints that are slightly underexposed and carry a pink cast. Color management is off. With the printer managing the color I get prints that are too green and dark. Epson advice here is to have color management off. There are two other choices for management but to adjust a perfectly balanced print to the printer's whim seem like cruel punishment.
    Have a calibrated monitor and my CS2 works beautifully. Perhaps the best idea is to just go back to CS2 until Adobe and Epson can decide what to do. According to Adobe people, the CS3 gives much of the management back to Epson. According to Epson -- with CS3, you should choose the printer to manage the color (since this seems to be the trend between the two companies) but we users are not happy with the results.
    What is the solution for right now?

  • Color management for web and print.

    Hi there.  I would like to post my images and have them print ready for clients.  When I read about both of these I find one thing for web and one thing for print. I don't want to edit them twice. What would you suggest for easiest workflow?  I like to post the images in an online gallery for my clients and if I really like them maybe use on my homepage.  Do I have to edit twice or what is the optimal setting for a photographer.  I do mostly portraits --family, baby, couples, etc.
    I am pretty well versed in actual editing processes but my understanding in this portion is still lacking.  I am trying prophoto rgb on photos today, but will this compromise my online quality? 

    brwmmw wrote:
    …I knew of this option but did not know if it was optimal quality…
    You define the quality of the saved image in the Save for Web and Devices dialog box.
    brwmmw wrote:
    …I have just been… using same files for web and print.  I wanted to increase quality across the board in print and web…
    That is absurd!  (Sorry.) By doing that you are generating unconscionably and unnecessarily large image files.  You're clients won't like that.
    Remember that you have no control over how anyone sees your images on the web.  Something like 97% of Internet users are running non-color-managed web browsers and uncalibrated monitor.
    You and you're clients are best served when you stick to the lowest common denominator, namely sRGB images, for web.
    brwmmw wrote:
    …What mode do you use for prints?…
    Personally, I like to stay in 16-bit ProPhoto RGB when I print my images myself.  If sending them to a pro lab, I discussed it with the lab techs.  But I have gathered a lot of experience by now.  One really has to know exactly what one's doing to edit in ProPhoto RGB and stay in that color space.  If sending my images to a cheap lab like Costco, I stick to 8-bit tagged images that I soft-proof with the specific printer profile that will be used by the local store.
    You should—and probably do—know that ProPhoto RGB has a very wide gamut that includes colors that cannot be printed by many printers, and it's up to you to compensate for that.  If you run into problems with ProPhoto RGB consider converting to Adobe RGB for print.  Make sure the printer drivers that will be used to print actually support 16-bit printing, otherwise convert to 8-bit.
    Since you're a pro, I would warmly recommend you watch the video tutorials comprising the "From Camera to Print - Fine Art Printing" series by Jeff Schewe and Michael Reichmann, that are/were available for download from the Luminous Landscape.  They're working on a new 2011 edition, but the 2008 edition was just superb.  Best $35 or so I've spent in a long time.
    http://www.luminous-landscape.com/videos/camera-print.shtml
    Wo Tai Lao Le  (no connection to Adobe or Schewe/Reichmnan/Luminous_Landscape.)
    我太老了

  • How can we print using the windows printer dialog window?

    Hi,
    We recently got new printers and a printer setup on our server that are set to print in greyscale as a default. In the past the printers defaulted to printing in color. When I create VI's and reports I have used to set "Print on completion" or the print option from the Report Generation Toolkit, and I have received my prints in color. After changing the printer drivers on the server any printing method I used to do from LabVIEW will always produce greyscale prints. These prints are fine for everyday use, however we need color prints when the documents are for customers or for other official use.
    If I could only send documents/VI's to that process the user could override the "greyscale" setting and select "color" in the cases where we need a better looking print. Obviously the other option is to save the document/VI as a file and later print it from any windows software (Excel, Paint etc.).
    Do anyone have any neat tricks for printing using the windows printer dialog?

    You can change printer settings programmatically via a .NET assembly. You can also bring up the Print Dialog to change settings manually before printing.
    More info on the .NET assembly for colour settings here:
    https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/system.drawing.printing.pagesettings.color(v=vs.110).aspx
    An NI KB link on calling a print dialog:
    http://digital.ni.com/public.nsf/allkb/80DD23A28BD8ADF9862575AC0077B1BB?OpenDocument
    CLD

  • When I try to print using Windows 2008 print server I have to use the generic print drivers supplied. If I use the OEM driver the printer locks up. I have tried a HP 4 plus and a Canon Copier.

    When I try to print using Windows 2008 print server I have to use the generic print drivers supplied. If I use the OEM driver the printer locks up. I have tried a HP 4 plus and a Canon Copier.

    A number of vendor drivers written for OS X cannot be used when connecting via SMB to a printer that is shared by Windows. This is due to limitations of the driver.
    In some cases, if you were to enable the LPD Print Service in Windows, you can connect to the share using the same syntax as SMB but on the Mac you would use the LPD as the protocol.
    If you can reply with the brand and model of printer you have then we may be able to provide more information.

  • Print using google cloud print

    I try to print using Google Cloud Print (Gmail etc...
    I am connected at Chrome but that doesn't work.
    I see the name of the printer with a message mean : currently offline (Actuellement hors connexion)
    What does it mean ?
    The printer is on and connected to my wi-fi network
    I do it with success sometimes but this problem return after turn-off, turnd-on the printer.
    That seems not be easy to use Google Cloud Print with Ipad
    Thank you for your help
    (sorry for my bad English ;-)

    try power cycling the printer, your device and router - don't forget to quit out of the apps on the device - double tap home - hold finger down on any app on the grey bar that pops up until a red minus symbol appears and then tap the red minus symbol to close them out
    if that doesn't work and it happened after power cycling the printer - you may have to re-setup your printer - check out airprint basics on the apple support page

  • How to select the printer and select the ICC profile for printing with VBScript?

    I try to automate my printing procedure in photoshop. The problem is that I don't know how to select the printer and select the icc profile for printing with vbscript like I manually do in the print-menu in photoshop?
    Anyone has done this before?
    Thanx!
    jus

    Client/Server version:
    - D2KWUTIL.PLL library provides a 'Select Printer' dialog box to be used in Forms: WIN_API_DIALOG.SELECT_PRINTER
    http://guenter-huerkamp.dyndns.org/oracle-doc/docs/html/d2kwutil.html
    I suggest you to create a form to invoke the report, allowing user to select the printer and then pass it as parameter DESNAME

  • After I installed 10.6.8, my HP Officejet lost the ability to print 2-sided.  I installed the latest HP drivers for Snow Leopard, but the 2-sided option is turned off and greyed out.

    After I installed 10.6.8, my HP Officejet 7310 lost the ability to print 2-sided.  I installed the latest HP drivers for Snow Leopard, the 2-sided option shows up in the print window but is turned off and greyed out.  Also the scan function won't let me scan at any density greater than 150 dpi.  I have talked to Applecare and to HP tech support and been told "too bad."  Any help would be appreciated.

    THANK YOU!  And who are you?  I spent a couple of hours on the phone with Applecare and with HP Tech Support and they couldn't fix what you did in a few words.  Many thanks!  John

  • HT201412 i have an iphone 4s and it just turned off and wouldnt turn back on until i got home and plugged it in to the mains. however it wont connect to my carrier and wont let me turn wifi on or use the internet. all my data is still in place, please HEL

    i have an iphone 4s and it just turned off and wouldnt turn back on until i got home and plugged it in to the mains. however it wont connect to my carrier and wont let me turn wifi on or use the internet. all my data is still in place. however when i disconnect from the charger it switches straight off immediately. it also just flashes up the apple icon (on 10 seconds, off 10 seconds.......) when i connect to either car charger or computer. it also resets itself every single time i turn it back on using the mains charger. please help me understand what is happening to my phone
    is there anything apple could do if i took it to one of their main shops???
    Kris (bulzy_23)

    Sounds like a hardware failure.
    Make an appointment at the genius bar and take it in for them to look at. It will probably need to be replaced.

  • For the iphone4, my light is on all the time! the light is supposed to turn off after a few seconds of use. how can i fix this?

    for the iphone4, my light is on all the time! the light is supposed to turn off after a few seconds of use. how can i fix this?

    If what Allen says does not fix the issue I have seen this as a Hardware issue and I would get into an Apple Store if it is close by
    http://concierge.apple.com/reservation/us/en/

  • HELP! I have some songs/interludes on my Garageband app on my Iphone. I was planning on using some for my bands album. Now my Iphone won't turn on and I'm being told to restore the phone. Have I lost all my Garageband songs?

    I have some songs/interludes on my Garageband app on my Iphone. I was planning on using some for my bands album. Now my Iphone won't turn on and I'm being told to restore the phone. Have I lost all my Garageband songs?

    Hi NWL1,
    Thanks for the question. If I understand correctly, the iPhone won't update and is stuck. I would recommend that you read this article, it may be able to help you resolve or isolate the issue.
    If you can't update or restore your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch - Apple Support
    Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
    Have a great day,
    Mario

  • Color Management Confusion-Photoshop and monitors

    Ok, so I am asking this question because I am literally at my wits end with this color management stuff. I have become so confused in the past few days that I can’t even think straight. Anyway, I am hoping you all can help me “understand” how it all work. Let me start with some background information (since I know it will probably be asked)
    am a photographer, I utilize Lightroom 4 and CS3 (I know its old but I am planning on getting CS6 soon).
    put my pictures on the web that I will assume will be viewed on multiple different browsers.
    also will be sending my pictures to print at mpix or whcc. I may decide to print my own but haven’t really made that determination at this point.
    have a mac book pro that I work from.
    Ok, so I need to get a monitor to work with but I am unsure if I should just buy the thunderbolt mac monitor or get a wide gamut monitor. I have heard so many people say that the wide gamut monitors just messed them up. Also, I am bit confused on the nature of monitor profiles and how they work with photoshop and lightroom. I would assume the monitor applies a profile at all times? I also don’t understand the existence of the prophoto and wide gamut profiles for the mac monitors… they clearly are not wide-gamut monitors, so how do these profiles exist for them, and why would they be useful (if you set the profile to prophoto for example, it is all washed out as expected). Are these profiles “assigning” a profile to the color? I am assuming so because if they were converting them to just a standard rgb then you wouldn’t have the faded colors (correct?).
    I just am so nervous that I am going to create something that looks great in Lightroom or Photoshop but that looks awful on the browser, or worse, on a different monitor (standard monitor) and I would have no idea that it looked bad. Or, if I send something to a printer only to get a mess back.
    Also, please let me know if I correct in this. If I am in photoshop and I have an untagged image (send via a friend), and lets just say it is really a prophoto image (although my friend didn’t tell me) and I say to assign the prophoto profile (upon import to photoshop). If that truly is the correct profile, the image should look correct. Now consider two scenarios from there: 1) I embed that profile in the image, if I upload that to the web (I know to be cautious, you should always use srgb for web), if the person has a color managed browser, the image would properly appear, because the browser would recognize the profile (in this case “prophoto”) and convert it to whatever it needed to be. But, if it was not a color managed browser, I run the risk that the web browser will just assign a profile, which will wash the photo out most likely, correct? Ok… and scenario 2) after I get the image from my friend and assign the prophoto profile (since that is the correct profile the image was actually created in, although it was untagged when it was sent to me), the image will look correct… BUT, is photoshop displaying the prophoto profile, or is it converting to RGB for my viewing, or is my monitor converting it to rgb for my viewing? I guess I just don’t understand how the monitor fits into all of this. You HAVE to use your monitor to see your images, and since most monitors (including my current one are standard gamut) it would make sense that you actually can’t see anything in the prophoto profile, and you are truly looking at an srgb profile since that is all your monitor can display.
    Oh ya, and what benefit is the color match rgb? It seems everyone speaks of the srgb, prophoto, and argb.. but never some of the others.. so maybe I am just lost. I would even appreciate a link to some tutorials if you think those would be helpful.
    I am seriously confused.. I would really appreciate the help.

    I am not surprised you are confused about colour management because its a confusing subject. Luckily you own a Mac so you can get to grips with what the problems that colour management solves using the "colorSync Utility" and you will find this in Applications >> Utilities >> colorSync Utility. If you own a windows computer then I am sorry but you will be out of luck here and you should know better when you buy your next computer!! I am not sure why Apple gave us this application but it is really useful and all will help you understand Color Management.
    1. Launch Applications >> Utilities >> ColorSync Utility.
    2. You will see a list of "Installed ColorSync Profiles". Choose Adobe RGB 1998 which I hope you have chosen in you camera preferences.
    3.You will see a 3D representation of the Adobe 1998 Colour space. This represents all the colors this colour space will hold.
    4. Top left hand corner you will see a little arrow pointing down next to "Lab Plot". Click on this and a drop down menu will appear.
        Choose "Hold For Comparison"
    5. Now somewhere in the "Installed ColorSync Profiles" list you will find the profile for you monitor. Choose this.
    6. You will now see a new colour space inside the Adobe 1998 Colour space. If you have a cheap monitor the colour space will be small
    inside the Adobe 1998 profile. This means that you monitor cannot show you all the colors that are missing.
    7. Now choose a printer profile say, if you use them a profile for an Epson paper or any printer profile you have and you will see another profile in the Adobe 1998 box which shows you the only colors that your printer can print. If you like choose your monitor profile then hold for comparison then the printer profile and it will clearly show the mis match between you monitor and printer.
    8. Now choose SRGB and this will show you what colors a person using an average Windows monitor can see, poor people.
    So this is the problem, all devises can reproduce only a certain range of colors. The adobe 1998 profile does not show all the colors our eyes can see " choose Generic Lab" profile, then "hold for comparison" then Adobe 1998 and you will see Adobe 1998 is a small profile but is a good average of our collective colour vision.
    So how to solve all these missing colour problems. Well if you think of each devise, including you camera as speaking a different language from you monitor and printer then it is easy to understand that you need some sort of translator so that they all know exactly what colour is being talked bout pixel by pixel in an image. This is held in the ICC profile, but an ICC profile has o do more than this.
    Say you camera can produce a specific red we will call for demo purposes "001" and your monitor cannot produce it, how do you solve this? Well it is very easy to fool our eyes. Our eyes work by comparison so if the profile maps red "001 to the nearest red that the monitor can show and then proportionally remaps all other reds to fit within the reds the monitor can show us then we actually think we are seeing a full range of reds. The problem comes if we use the wrong profile for this. The red 001 could be re mapped anywhere and could be outside what the monitor can show. Say that happens but the printer can reproduce that red 001. We would see an image on the monitor with not many reds and when we printed it we would be shocked to find reds on the print. Worst, we would see an image on the monitor without reds and would correct for this and end up with a print with heavy reds and would not be able to work out why.
    So to solve this we should:
    1. use the correct camera profile when we are opening "Raw" files.
    2. Make sure you have the correct monitor ICC profile selected in "System Preferences" >> Displays.
    3. In photoshop we should make sure that the " Edit >> colour settings " are set to Adobe 1998 for RGB.
    4. If you are going to print you own photo in Photoshop go to "View >> Proof Setup >> Custom" and a box will
    open. Choose the profile of your printer and paper and choose "Perceptual" for rendering intent and then " OK". If you cannot find
    a profile for you printer and paper go to the printer of paper manufactures web site and download the profiles and instal
    them.
    5. You can now adjust the colors and contrast and photoshop will simulate how the output devise will deal with this. If you
    are using an outside printing house, they will supply you with their ICC profile to download so just follow the same procedure and
    choose their ICC profile and and do you colour correction.
    If you have a cheap monitor you will still not get a 100% result but you will get closer. You really need a monitor that you can  calibrate
    regularly because generic ICC profiles are just that. They are made from the results of many monitors and so are 90% or worse accurate.
    If you want to see a flag ship monitor at work go to http://www.eizo.com/global/support/db/products/software/CG223W#tab02 and go
    to the bottom of the page and download the Eizo Coloredge CG223W monitor profile, instal it on your mac then open then ope
    Launch Applications >> Utilities >> ColorSync Utility choose Adobe 1998 the hold and compare it with the  Eizo Coloredge CG223W
    profile. This is not the top of the range Eizo monitors that we use but you will see that this monitor will show most of the missing colour you monitor does not. This is actually a good tip if you are buying a monitor. Download the monitors profile and see how good it really is.
    The weak link still is printing. The colors you see in RGB on a back lit RGB screen are very hard to reproduce by CYMK inks on paper. Here you really should have a profile made for your printer and chosen paper. If you don't want the expense of buying a calibrator and doing it yourself, there are on line services that will do this for you.
    One final point you must remember. If you are using soft proofing in Photoshop ( "View >> Proof Setup >> Custom" as explained above), when you print you MUST choose in "Colour Handling" "Photoshop Manages Colour" and in the next step when the printing box appears
    you will see a drop down box with "Layout" in it. Click on this and choose "Colour Management and choose "Off No Colour Management". If you do not do this Photoshop will manage the colour then the printer will do it again and the print will be a disaster.
    This is a starting point really. Colour management is difficult but just try to remember that you need a translator between each step in the process to make it work so you have to make sure the correct profiles are being used by you camera, the program you use for opening the Raw photo files (Please don't use jpegs straight from the camera, but thats another subject), the correct monitor profile and output profile. If you don't check these it is like chinese whispers and your picture will be printed in Double Dutch!!.
    Hope that helps. I am on location In Italy for a couple of months so will be unlikely to be able to reply to any questions for a while. Will try to check back and see how you are getting on. Drop me a line at [email protected] if you have any questions. Good luck.
    Paul Williams

  • Where is color sync located (not color utility) which is required to download icc profiles? Dolores

    Where is color sync located (not color utility)?  I am downloading an icc profile from Ilford paper and the instructions say to first download into downloads, then move to Library.  This I did.  But I cannot find Color Sync to move the profile into.  When I did the "search" the list that turned up was not applicable. After that it needs to go to Profiles inorder that Lightroom 4 paper profiles list can receive it and be able to print according to the profile.  How will I find Profiles?Thanks, Dolores  P.S. I have successfully downloaded profiles before, but this time I am stumped.

    Where ICC profiles live on different operating systems
    Windows 7, Vista and XP:
    \Windows\system32\spool\drivers\color
    Win98/Me - Windows/System/Color
    WinNT - WinNT/System32/Color
    Win2K- WinNT/System32/Spool/Drivers/Color
    WinXP - Windows/System32/Spool/Drivers/Color
    On a mac, it's Library/ColorSync/Profiles either in the root or user
    Epson places their profiles inside a package (a self- contained group of files) found in Main LibraryÆPrintersÆEpsonÆ SP2200.plugin*ÆContentsÆResourcesÆICC Profiles.

Maybe you are looking for

  • Ipod shuffle not recognised by my desk top

    I have a new ipod shuffle that does not show up in devices when I plug it into my desk top.  What should I do.  Have all the latest software and the device is working and being recognised by another computer.

  • Boot Camp Installation: Definition of, and insights into "External Drives"?

    I'm recovering from a logic board failure. One casualty was that I lost my prior Boot Camp installation of Windows on my main internal hard drive. :-( Wondering if I can install Windows anywhere other than the main internal hard drive so I can maximi

  • How do we record the information in NI-9233

    We are using NI - 9233 for the vibration measurement of vibration. We have a signal input of vibration from a sensor . We will display the output . and we need to record the information when the vibration range goes above 20g . what we want to know i

  • Can't get rid of these .plists

    When I run Disk Warrior, it finds four .plist files that it wants me to trash. So I trash them. But a few days later they mysteriously return. Can anyone help me get rid of these things permanently? This drives me bonkers. Many thanks, Harry. Here ar

  • How do you upgrade from CD-1 4th to 5th edition in CiscoWorks 2k?

    Cisco.com has 3rd to 5th edition migration tools, but none for 4 to 5. How is this done? What tool? Where obtained? What URL? Thanks!!