Aperture white balance only goes to 2500 where Lightroom goes to 2000

I shoot with a Leica M8, which has poor white balance. I was unable to remove red cast with aperture, while Ligthroom had no problems. I noticed the white balance sliders in aperture only go to 2500. Lower numbers can be input manually, but that prevents sliding until right. Is there any way to adjust the slider settings?

Robo,
Hover your mouse over the NUMBERS and then click and drag. It'll take you down to 2000 if you drag to the left, and if you drag to the right you'll increase the temperature, as well. Only the sweet spots are shown.
Scott

Similar Messages

Aperture white balance default

I'm new to Aperture
The Aperture white balance default is 6826 (tint 13).
I set my camera wb to Flash.
How can I change the Aperture default WB to Flash?
In my meta data all my images have a wb=Flash. Should Aperture read the metadata to set the WB?
Tony

Hello Tony,
welcome to the Aperture Forum of the Apple Support Communities. Can you explain a little bit more, which default setting you are talking about?
At first I thought you were talking about the default setting for the White Balance adjustment in the adjustment panel of the Library inspector. But that one is set to a color temperature of 5000K (Horizon daylight), a suitable preset for landscape photography - at least, that setting is what I see in my Aperture version.
The number you quote "6826 K" is in the range of the color temperature of a LCD or CRT screen, suitable for the display of digital images on a screen. Where did you find that setting?
If you want to adjust any image to the setting the white balance your camera was set to, then you need to define a preset for the White Balance adjustment in the adjustment panel of the Library Inspector. Set this to the color temperature of your flashlight - it should be somewhere in the range of 5,500–6,000 K. Do you know the exact color temperature for the flash setting of your camera?
Regards
Léonie

Iso, Shutter Speed, Aperture, White balance for music videos or film?

Hello everyone. I just started making music videos. I just want some tips or can someone direct me to a good guide for music videos. I know the basics of iso, shutter speed, and aperture already. I read some guides and so far I know I gotta put my shutter at 1/50 or if i'm recording something at high speed, i increase it. is it so? Also, I always put my aperture at the lowest. I have a Canon T2i and Canon lenses 50 f/1.8 and kit lens. I always put my aperture at the lowest 3.5(kit lens) or 1.8. The tricky part is the ISO. I don't know where to put my ISO. I know the lowest ISO is good but sometimes the video looks dark. Do I fix this in video editing programs? Like should I always stay at ISO 100? What about white balance? I use Final Cut 7.
Also, what about during the day and night? Indoors? etc I also have a cheap LED lights.

your questions are about the very basics of photography.
I would consider to buy a book, which explains photography 'from the ground' ("... for dummies.." not meant as an offence!)
in short:
a scenery offers a defined amount of light.
Your cameras 'film' aka sensor, needs a defined amount of light to deliver a picture.
So, on recoprding, you have to control the amount of light, and the controls are:
aperture - opened or closed
shutter - shorter or longer
speed (ISO) - higher or lower.
Imagine the light as a stream of tiny balls, coming from your scenery: a bigger hole = aperture lets more balls into the cam. A shorter shutter speed reduces the amount of balls. And a higher ISO catches more balls than a lower. ..
Understanding that, you realize that those parameters are crosswise-related: an open aperture + a shorter shutter speed results in the same amount of light on the sensor as a closed aperture and a longer shutter speed.
If the amount of light is still too much, lower the sensitivity = ISO.
If the amount of light is too little, open the aperture, or use a longer shutter speed or raise the sensitivity.
When you set one or two parameters in this equation, you have to adjust the other ones: Video-makers start with the shutter speed, usually set to 1/2 of frame-rate = 1/50 - 1/60 - why? Because it allows a nice looking 'smear' aka motion-blur aka 'film look'.
Now, with a given speed, you can conrtol teh amount of light for the sensor only by aparture; and when you reach limits, by setting ISO.
When you understood this BY PRACTICING, you're next step is the concept of 'shallow focus'/depth of field. And when you understood this BY PRACTICING, you'll will understand the need of Neutral Densitity Filters for movie-makers...
But first things first: buy a book; read your cam's amnual; practice the settings and watch carefully the different results, diff. settings result.
... and it's really just about basics - independently of your device and/or your software.
None of the things mentioned above can be done or 'fixed' in post... (basically...)
happy movie making!

Pentax K5 / Apple Aperture - White Balance Inconsistency

Used my new Pentax K5 with studio flash for the first time on Saturday. I got some peculiar colour temperature results. Can anyone explain this?
All shots used the following settings:
- Raw DNG
- Adobe RGB
- Camera white balance set to "Flash"
- ISO 100
- 1/180s
- f/11 to f/19
- same lens used throughout ( Pentax A 50mm macro f2.8 )
When I loaded the raw files in to Apple Aperture the colour temperatures of the raw conversions came out as an inconsistent variety of temperatures and tints. As sample, the first ten shots on the "roll" show the following white balance values after raw conversion (prior to any manual adjustments being made):
5759 K / +4
5759 K / +4
5759 K / +4
5759 K / +4
4492 K / -9
4479 K / -7
4463 K/ -8
4469 K / -11
4563 K / -8
4572 K / -8
(For what its worth, 5759 K / +4 looks right to me.)
What is going on? Do I have a camera problem or an Aperture raw conversion problem?

My first question is why are you converting to DNG before importing into Aperture? It appears that Aperture should support the RAW files from that camera.
Second question is how familiar are you with the whole concept of RAW images? You realize that none of the camera settings (apart from shutter speed and aperture) affect the digital RAW file.
One of the strengths and reasons for shooting RAW is the ability to adjust white balance after the shoot. JPG images are extremely limited in their ability to have there white balance adjusted.
RAW conversion software is as much art as science, which is why no two RAW conversion programs will render an image in exactly the same way.
So I would first eliminate the DNG step and then see how that affects the workflow.
regards

Aperture: White Balance in Adjustments inspector no longer appears by default

Aperture 3.3.2
In the past week, the White Balance adjustment in the Adjustments inspector no longer appears by default in my program. It's always been there, above Exposure, Enhance, and Highlights and Shadows.
Now, White Balance is gone, and I have to click 'add adjustment... White Balance' for every single photo, which is hugely frustrating. I shoot in Canon RAW.
What happened to my default White Balance, and can someone help me put it back?
Thanks!

Click the cogwheel beside the White Balance adjustment and add this adjustment to the default set.
Regards
Léonie

Is there anyway of overriding the d700 white balance fine tuning when importing to lightroom?

I have imported a large number of my raw photos from my d700 into lightroom. The white balance fine tuning setting was b4 creating a blue bias which I would like to remove. When I copy directly from the camera to my iPad there is no bias and the photos look good however once I import into either lightroom or photoshop I must adjust each photo to remove the bias. There must be a better way.

My suggestion would be for you to adjust the white balance to your satisfaction along with any other adjustments that you think are consistently out of line with what you want. Then, create new defaults for that camera.

Can you remove the camera white balance setting in Aperture

I have a Canon 7D and use Aperture for processing and storing my images.
With the Canon I shoot both video and still and frequently adjust the white balance in the camera. I make a frequent mistake in leaving the wrong white balance setting on - eg when taking video indoors in the evening I set the white balance to indoors (the Canon seems poor at white balance decision making on video) and then I forget I'm not using auto white balance and switch to taking a photo with flash. The result is a horrible blue photo - which if I don't spot the problem at the time seems very hard to correct afterwards.
I use the Aperture white balance adjustments frequently but unless there is a patch or white or grey I an use the dropper on, I find this particular situation seems to be right off the scale of what I can fix in Aperture. I end up with sliders at the extremes of the scales and no intuitive sense of what numbers to type in manually to try and get realistic colour - so I often end up discarding these photos even if the shot itself is something I'd like to use.
So my question is given I'm importing RAW, is there a way to show the phoo without the (wrong) white balance setting I applied in the camera, to let me choose white balance from scratch?
Or if not, do you have any advice about how to adjust from this very bluey unrealistic colour of image?

Kirkby - thanks for the quick reply.
Didn't know you could drag inside a value field - that's helpful.
But being able to get different numbers on the slider isn't the root of my problem.
In a specific example I have two photos - one taken with white balance set to flash and the photo was with flash, where after a bit of tweaking to get the colour I want the temp slider is at 5000K (and tint 0). The second photo has my shooting error with interior lighting white balance but taken with flash. The two shots were taken from almost the same point of the same view (but different people in frame). The shot with the white balance error comes off camera horribly blue coloured. I can fiddle with the two sliders - I take temperature to 20000K and tint to 40 to do the best with it I can, and with those settings one of the two faces is approaching flesh colour but the wall behind the subjects (which is a light blue in reality) is now appearing light yellow in places. I just can't get a good looking colour effect no matter ow extreme the slider settings.
I may have phrased my question badly - as I totally agree you can't show a raw without a colour setting - so maybe I'm better asking to be able to use a different colour setting on the raw data rather than having to start with adjustments on top of my white balance mistake.
Given the two shots were in the same place against the same background and the same lighting (both with flash) it seems to me I ought to be able to get a similar colour effect on both and I just can't. To illustrate here are the two photos (the one on the left was shot with flash wb and in Aperture I'm viewing it with 5000K and 0 tint, the one on the right was shot with indoor wb and in Aperture I'm viewing it with 20000K and 40 tint and it looks terrible!)
https://www.box.com/shared/qle3t6ovyhrd1egez3vc

D200 white balance presets problem or ACR problem?

Last night I was playing around with my D200 and an SB800. The scene was just a sofa with a Gretag-Macbeth 24 Patch Color Checker. The object was to see what results I got with the SB800 with the D200 set to the various preset White balance values. (I should point out that the lighting was mixed, but that is not relevant to the results I see.)
I set the D200 to each of the preset white balance values and then opened the NEF file in ACR. The preset temperature (from the D200 Manual) and the temperature/tint values reported as "As shot' by ACR are shown in the table below.
D200 ACR 'as shot'
preset temperature/tint
tungsten 3000 2950 / 0
fluorescent 4200 3950 / +31
daylight 5200 4950 / -3
flash 5400 6150 / -9
cloudy 6000 5550 / -7
shade 8000 7100 / +3
First of all I don't care if the temperature reported by ACR agrees with the preset temperature quoted by Nikon. What puzzles me is the discontinuity in the values reported by ACR when going from 'flash' to 'cloudy'. Is this a problem with ACR or with the Nikon preset values for these two settings?

>First of all I don't care if the temperature reported by ACR agrees with the preset temperature quoted by Nikon. What puzzles me is the discontinuity in the values reported by ACR when going from 'flash' to 'cloudy'. Is this a problem with ACR or with the Nikon preset values for these two settings?
Bob,
A full answer to your question would require a response by Thomas Knoll or some other ACR expert with knowledge of how Nikon records the white balance and the algorithm used to apply the white balance. However, I can bring up a few points which may shed some light on the matter.
One should first consider what white balance information Nikon cameras write to the NEF file. The following table refers to the D70 and similar Nikon cameras before encryption of the WB.
http://www.ozhiker.com/electronics/pjmt/jpeg_info/nikon_mn.html
The settings of daylight, flash, tungsten, etc are written as descriptive strings, not actual degrees Kelvin. Nikon considers daylight to be 5200K, but Thom Hogan writes that this value often produces a blue result and 5400K might be better.
The bias value refers to fine tuning between the above descriptive settings, approximately 100 Mired per increment. Finally, the red and blue coefficients are recorded (green would be redundant). Some raw converters such as DCRaw use these coefficients for the "as set" white balance. There is nothing corresponding to the ACR tint, which adjusts in the magenta green axis, whereas the color temperature slider adjusts in the yellow-blue axis. The degrees Kelvin figure specifies the white balance only for a black body radiator.
Thus there several ways to interpret the WB data. Mr. Knoll has written previously that ACR attempts to produce a neutral white balance appearance rather than the WB numbers. An interesting experiment would be to determine which converter (ACR or Nikon Capture) gives a more neutral white balance on your color checker with the above settings.
Bill
http://www.adobeforums.com/cgi-bin/webx/.3bbc87b2/0

MIssing white balance button cover on Rebel XS

The black cover to the white balance button fell off the back of my Rebel XS and is lost. With the missing button cover, I cannot change the white balance. Any suggestions on where to get a button cover or how to repair it?

Sorry, I have no idea where to find such parts. You can try searching around for Spare Rebel Parts, but most of what I see are more fundamental pieces. But unless you're willing to take it apart and put it in yourself you're probably going to pay someone more than the camera is worth to fix it. You could try to find a camera repair place, like an old school guy-in-a-room-full-of-old-camera-parts type of place, where he might be able to shove something in there for a reasonable price. If you're mechanically inclined you could take it apart, pull a button off something else, and stick it in there. But I don't know if there are any other buttons of less importance on there, most seem more used to me.
Do you shoot in RAW? My recommendation would be to set the WB to auto and leave it there, and shoot in RAW so you can adjust in post anyway. You should be able to adjust the WB through the menu using the navagation buttons.

Elements 11 organizer shows correct wb in thumbnails but when increased to full screen or in slide show changes white balance to tungsten

Elements 11 organizer shows correct white balance in thumbnails but when increased to full screen or in slide show changes white balance to tungsten. Photos where shot in raw and in auto or flash white balance. any suggestions out there?

Figured it out, if the raw default setting has the wb on 3000 (or tungsten) the slide show uses adobe raw to convert so they all showed blue LOL

Lightroom 2 - Auto white balance - crash

I'm having intermittent problems while applying auto white balance on some CR2 files in Lightroom 2 running on OS X 10.5.4. When choosing Auto from the list of white balance options, LR waits for a second or two, doesn't update the history panel and the spinning beachball appears. CPU rises to about 100% and there's no other way than to force quit.
So far it happens with, say, one in 50 images (I've been working on approximately 100 images and with 2 this happened).
When I restart I can easily recreate the problem by going through the same routine.
The workaround is working on another image and then going back to the problematic one; then I can apply AWB without any problems.
I can save a (lengthy) hang reporter log file.

Thought I was doing pretty good with LR2, but unfortunately this problem has showed up on my Mac OS X 10.5.4 system. The stalls (i.e., beachball) are when developing CR2 images from a Canon 5D. I experience many occurrences of the problem when going through this folder of RAWs, perhaps 20-30% of the images. Today I thought I had found one that always fails, but turns out not to be the case, although it causes a failure over half the time it is accessed. Same symptoms as described in the above posts: Convert an image's white balance to auto, in either quick-develop or develop. Then when you access the image you get the spinning beachball forever, and have to force-quit. I've also stalled LR with this sequence: in QD, convert WB to auto, switch to develop module, undo the WB change in history by clicking the prior step... LR stalls. Basically I've seen all the same steps as described here, and more.
Also, just for fun I tried everyone's favorite troubleshooting step, i.e., trashing preferences. It made absolutely no difference. The first time I simply clicked on the troublesome image, LR got stuck.
Jao... interestingly, I never saw this problem in the beta in spite of developing many, many images in the beta. If it was known and not fixed, that's quite a concern.

Nikon D800 Flash White Balance

When RAW files (either NEF or DNG) taken with the setting Flash White Balance, they are imported into either Lightroom(4) or Photoshop(CS6) with a temperature of 6150K. This does not coincide with the Nikon default of 5400K. If the Nikon Software (View NX2) is used, the white balance shows that the Flash setting was used and the image appears identical when their 5400 default is applied. In Lightroom, or in CS6, if the temperature number is changed to reflect the Nikon default number of 5400K, the color of the image dramatically changes. If the temperature is left at 6150K, the image appears virtually identical to what Nikon calls 5400K.
The issue, a minor one, seems to be that the Adobe products are applying an incorrect Kelving Temperature number to the files. It is disconcerting to see the wrong temperature displayed in the software, but the number can be ignored without any negative effects; and the number can be modified to produce a more pleasing balance.
I am writing only because it took some experimentation and time to come to these conclusions. I wasn't clear, at first whether the camera was at fault, or if the software was producing the issue. It would be beneficial to have the issue addressed and corrected.
Incidentally, all the other White Balance settings from the camera seem to translate accurately into the Adobe Software.

Nikon's white balance numbers are confusing. Nikon list Direct Sunlight as 5200 degrees and Flash as 5400 degrees - no values are listed for tint. If you open an NEF file with Nikon Capture NX2 and select Direct Sunlight for the white balance it will list 5200 degrees with tint of 0 for the white balance, and if you select Flash it will list 5400 degrees and a tint of 0. You can adjust these values with sliders, and if you adjust the Flash values to 5200 degrees with a tint of 0 you do not get the same colors in the image as you get with Direct Sunlight selected which has the identical temperature and tint values.
I don't find any agreement between Nikon's white balance values and what you get with Adobe RAW processing software. I don't find the presets in Adobe Software (Daylight, Flash, etc) very useful because they don't appear correct for the camera's I have. I shot images (NEF Files) with every preset available in the camera selected and saved the white balance values as presets in Adobe Camera RAW. I also find the Camera profiles more useful than Adobe Standard.

Images look different with same white balance

Hey folks,
Just ran some tests between a Nikon D300 and a Nikon D7000. I pulled both images into Lightroom 3.4 (PC), and matched the white balance using the White Balance Selector tool and a WhiBal card in a test image. And even though they now have the same white balance, the colors are distinctly different. How is this possible? (The same image shot with a D200 looks nearly identical to the D300.) Examples:
D7000
D300
All other specs the same:
Nikon 17-55mm f/2.8 @50mm
1/80 @ f/5.6, ISO 200
RAW
Color space: AdobeRGB
Picture Control setting: SD (standard)
Custom white balance from WhiBal card, matched in Lightroom 3.4: 5200, +38
I need to be able to shoot with multiple bodies and sync them so I don't have to adjust the batches separately.
Thanks in advance

WB is not the only factor involved in how colour is created in a digital image. The WB just sets the colour temperature. How the colour is created is effected by many other factors, hence calibration profiles. By calibrating the sensor you can produce a standardised response for a particular individual sensor. You could then carefully match this with a different sensor. However there will always be subtle differences. It would be far easier when requiring a particular shoot to have exactly the same look, to use one camera and one lens to achieve it.
When making a film, directors, such as Hitchcock, would insist on not only using the same film stock, from the same batch, but in the case of Vertigo even had the same water source used for all processing to achieve the look he was after.

Nikon D700 White balance importing issues

Hi Guys,
I am using a nikon d700 with Lightroom 3.2 If I shoot tethered, the correct white balance appears and gets loaded in Lightroom, but if I import them after the shoot, from the card, it loads a completely different white balance value and I have to go back and correct them one by one. I am not using any profile, just leave it on the standard Adobe version because the Nikon profiles are significantly reducing the quality on raw file. Does someone have an idea what I am doing wrong to be able to load the correct white balance during importing?
Thanks

Are you shooting RAW? If so there is no WB embedded in a RAW file, you set the WB in LR. Setting "As Shot" and a calibration profile that matches the camera setting (if one exists) will usually closest to the wb embedded in a jpg produced by the camera processing.
You may want to check out the FAQ, this one is pertinent.

White balance dropper

Is there a way to make the eyedropper for Lightroom White Balance persist? In ACR I can select the eyedropper and click around the image to see the white balance from various points. In Lightroom after I click a spot the eyedropper is no longer active and I have to go select it again...
This is really slow and it'd be handy if I could click multiple spots... Is there a way to do this?

The people that designed the keyboard shortcuts and the user commands for LR did a great job. It's just a joy to use with the keyboard. There are always 3 ways to do the same thing and one of them works just right for me.

Aperture white balance only goes to 2500 where Lightroom goes to 2000

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