Black point setting?

Now I've come back to using Aperture, I am finding it overall a much better experience than a year ago, when I dumped v1.5.
I have a couple of minor niggles though, but mainly the default setting of the black point slider. One trick with the Olympus E series is to shoot at -0.3ev to preserve highlights better. However, with the black point slider at a default of 3.0 (at whatever scale it's using), this invariably clips the dark end of the scale.
I have a preset to knock it back to 0.0, but it's gets a pain having to do this with too many photos. Is there any way to set this to default at 0.0?
Cheers.

It's not as bad as every single picture, but it's enough that I'd rather it did default to 0, or better still be user definable.
Which beings me to another little annoyance I've found too, and perhaps that a 'Pro' app such as Aperture should have just a little more user control. I really get fed up with having to untick the 'constrain to' button in the crop box, I almost never crop to a fixed aspect ratio, so this is another one I have to remember to click on whenever I use it. Actually it does stay unticked for a session, but a relaunch sets to ON again.
Thanks,
Andy

Similar Messages

  • White point / black point

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    Hello
    (First post - have lurked a little on here for a while, but have not had a question of my own until now)
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    (by a happy miracle, my camera gets the black point right most of the time, provided I set it right)
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    I'd like to know as well, is there a way to set the default black point to zero instead of the 3.00?

  • Setting  a White Point and Black Point

    I would like to suggest for future versions of lIghtroom to have an ability to set the white point and black points similar to levels and curves in Photoshop. This would be in addition to setting middle grey in the white balance settings currently in Lightroom.  I find that the method of using Threshold to find the closest white and black pixels and then using these points to set the black and white points in curves or levels provides a better way to fix a color cast than the methods available in Lightroom.

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  • Setting White, Mid and Black Points in Camera Raw 7

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  • Confused on setting black point in Camera Raw 7

    Hi,
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    Once you have some contrast added (if it's an underly contrasty shot), or some contrast removed (if it's an overly contrasty shot), then simply move the blacks slider left until you have the desired amount of black clipping.  You can also move the blacks slider right if you need more light in the pic, and PV2012 will keep the blacks fairly-well seated (if its a full dynamic range shot), or it will let the black point slide up more (if original tonal distribution was not occupying whole histogram). But consider, before +blacks, whether +exposure (and maybe +shadows/-highlights) wouldn't do ya better. Note: +blacks will reduce contrast, so sometimes if you opt for +blacks you need +contrast (and/or +clarity) to go with it. Likewise, -blacks increases contrast, so you may need some -contrast to go with it (and you may find you need less clarity if you have blacks plenty-well seated).
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  • When to set white/black point

    Hello,
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  • Setting White/Black Points using the Tone Curve

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  • Adobe CMM Black Point Compensation

    Hello list members,
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    In rare cases using Black Point Compensation can cause unacceptable results and the effect is usually washed out detail in the very dark regions of the final image. In our experience this problem usually rears its ugly head with some RGB output profiles.
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    There is one other case where you may want to turn off Black Point Compensation. When you want to soft proof output for a printer that has a low dynamic range like newspaper, where the blacks are
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    in the CMYK Set-Up. You can view full information for this problem source www.digitaldog.net/files/Black_Point_Compensation.pdf
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  • Establishing White Point and Black Point

    Hi,
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    The last post by OP might have closed this thread, but given the relative lack of activity on this and LR2 forums (summertime?) - I'll go a little deeper.
    i White point
    - If your white balance is right from the start, you just use the Exposure slider to set the white point. If not, first set the white balance - that effectively sets a preliminary white point for each channel separately, or, to be more precise, matches the right side of the histogram for each channel - then set the Exposure. So, with the white point you have complete control over the histogram, as well as over each channel.
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    - here the situation is different. You can move the left side of the main (composite?) histogram using the Blacks slider, but there's no means for moving channels separately. In theory, with digital capture, there probably should not be need for this, blacks should be always black, so that's OK, but...
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  • Black Point Compensation for JPEG export?

    Hiya,
    I'd like to print photos via the web, and therefore want to export the photos as JPEGs. I just checked the options in the export preset panel, and realised that one can select "Black Point Compensation" as an option for the export.
    Does anyone have any experience with this setting? Should one use it, if one doesn't know the printer in use?
    Thanks in advance for any feedback.
    Regards,
    Stephan

    Stephan,
    I'd like to print photos via the web, and therefore
    want to export the photos as JPEGs. I just checked
    the options in the export preset panel, and realised
    that one can select "Black Point Compensation" as an
    option for the export.
    Does anyone have any experience with this setting?
    It's a fairly reliable fix if your test prints come back with murky shadows.
    Should one use it, if one doesn't know the printer in
    use?
    I don't know of a good way to optimize files for unknown printers. I'd recommend getting a profile for the printer/paper combo used by your lab and soft-proofing on your Mac. Have you calibrated your screen, etc.?
    The soft proof will get you in the ballpark. Definitely order small (8x10 or so) test print before laying out long green for a poster-sized one.
    Cheers,
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  • Black point compensation for onscreen proofing

    Hi there,
    In Aperture, is there any way to turn Black point compensation on for onscreen proofing (i.e. not using the export procedure, where this actually is available)? This option is available in Photoshop, for example.

    Stephan,
    I'd like to print photos via the web, and therefore
    want to export the photos as JPEGs. I just checked
    the options in the export preset panel, and realised
    that one can select "Black Point Compensation" as an
    option for the export.
    Does anyone have any experience with this setting?
    It's a fairly reliable fix if your test prints come back with murky shadows.
    Should one use it, if one doesn't know the printer in
    use?
    I don't know of a good way to optimize files for unknown printers. I'd recommend getting a profile for the printer/paper combo used by your lab and soft-proofing on your Mac. Have you calibrated your screen, etc.?
    The soft proof will get you in the ballpark. Definitely order small (8x10 or so) test print before laying out long green for a poster-sized one.
    Cheers,
    Andreas

  • Black point

    Hi,
    After upgrading Aperture to 3.3 all my photo's appear be less bright in "view" mode. Also photo is indicated as too much black, which cann't be adjusted via the black point key in the adjustment field. Anyone got this problem also?
    regards, Arnold

    Arnold,
    you can now adjust the brightness individually for the Viewer and the Browser in the Preferences;
         Preferences > Appearance
    Adjust the "Viewer Brightness" slider and the "Full Screen Brightness" slider. Does this help?
    Added: How do you try to set the Black Point? In the "Exposure" brick? Have you tried to type directly into the number field besides the black point slider? In what way does i not work for you?
    Regards
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  • White and black point vs ??

    I never know which forum to post these things, so I'll start with the photographers.
    <br />
    <br />These three shots are as follows: (1) the camera raw version, (2) where I moved the sliders from the ends to approximately the beginning/end of the major portion of the histogram, and (3) using the threshold control to find the white and black points in the main part of the picture.
    <br />
    <br />Then, in the two adjusted versions, I lightened the image with the curves control.
    <br />
    <br />In both these cases, I used the grey dropper to touch the same spot on one of the rocks, to get the apparent neutral point.
    <br />
    <br />It seems to me that the threshold method to find the white and black points is preferred, based on the overall color and appearance of the finished adjustment.
    <br />
    <br />But, I've found on some images where the histogram has missing black and missing white, if I adjust the sliders to these two ends, I get pretty much the same outcome, as far as the contrast, color, and grey point.
    <br />
    <br />Could I have some advice on the preferred method to use in handling my image adjustments? Doing it the threshold method takes more time, and sometimes it's difficult to find the white and black points, or even the grey point.
    <br />
    <br />Thanks.
    <br />
    <br />Al
    <br />
    <br />
    <a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1SlEeG9kfwzD34gVOEcCbg7Ktp83p3" /></a>
    <img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1SlEeG9kfwzD34gVOEcCbg7Ktp83p3_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
    <br />
    <br />
    <a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1tIEs4eAyKz4sxamyVaYRlKjTIIfKj" /></a>
    <img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1tIEs4eAyKz4sxamyVaYRlKjTIIfKj_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
    <br />
    <br />
    <a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=17K3ewFXsGo4K2uH5TGfO06CdVayyn1" /></a>
    <img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/17K3ewFXsGo4K2uH5TGfO06CdVayyn1_thumb.jpg" border="0" />

    Yes the image was purposely underexposed. What I was trying to accomplish was to speed up the shutter speed to remove the slight blurring and compensate by pulling data from the shadows. Even though the lens has an image stabilizer the amount of light wasn't enough for a proper sharp shot.
    this image is before touch up
    These two images are F/5.6, 1/20, ISO 800
    After touch up
    Better lit scene but shows slight motion blur
    This last image is F/5.6, 1/4, ISO 800
    I believe that I will have to wait next year and hope I have a faster lens by then. I just don't think the 28mm-135mm f/3.5-5.6 lens is fast enough. I was trying this without a tripod to get in tighter.
    Also I was taking these shots without the flash to get the drama of the tree lights.
    What I would have prefer is a shutter speed of 1/125 or better as it helps with my hands shaking I believe the slowest should be 1/60
    And the lower the ISO the better for noise.
    These preferences are what I am used to with my Canon G3 that does not have IS.
    I am getting so off track here, lol. But anyways, here are the pictures.

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