Calibrating a New ACD Aluminum Widescreen

I just purchased a monitor that is apparently from the last production run of the wide screen 20 inch Aluminum Apple Cinema Displays. They were discontinued in February and are the last of the low glare ACDs.
My question is, what is the best hardware calibrator for this display? I know that this display has been around for a while and has gone through a few iterations, so was wondering what seems to work best in the most recent ones, say 2007-2009.

http://spyder.datacolor.com/index_us.php

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Bluetooth on new MacBook Aluminum and all MacBooks before

I have a new Macbook Aluminum. Bluetooth frequently doesn't recognize my mouse and/or keyboard. Now that I have added a monitor the mouse and keyboard are connected but NOTHING happens on waking even though the bluetooth preferences shows it's connected, so I turn off/on bluetooth and sometimes one or the other actually works. I've had the new Macbook three weeks and bluetooth has disappeared completely four times requiring a battery out reset to get it back. Are there any fixes for a Macbook with what is obviously VISTA bluetooth?

Hello western:
Since your Macbook is new, punt the problem to Apple. Either take it to an Apple store, or call Applecare with a warranty issue.
The intermittent nature of the problem indicates, to me, a hardware issue.
Barry

New LG204TW 20" widescreen monitor shows black lines ??

Yesterday I picked up the new LG L204TW widescreen monitor for my Intel Mac Mini.
The display is detected by OSX and I can run the native resolution of 1680x1050 @ 60Hz. via DVI.
But there is a sort of flickering of the screen. Actually there are black horizontal lines showing up. This happens mostly when browsing.
When I open for example a Quitime window and move the window of the playing video over the black lines, the lines are gone. So I think it is not the display itself.
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Regards,
Armand
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Hook up another monitor that you have and see if it is your mac, if it isn't your mac then take the LG screen back to the shop, ask for full refund and consider another monitor.

Surround sound support for new MB aluminum?

Hello, so here's the deal:
I've been looking at a few pairs of headphones that will be plugged in through the USB port and there's a pair that supports 5.1 surround sound and a pair that supports 7.1 (both have 8 speakers built into the headphones).
Does anyone know what kind of surround sound support the new macbook aluminum has, if any?
The deal is that the headphones feature amps (it goes: usb -> amp -> control pod -> headphones), so technically it doesn't require drivers from the Mac into order to get it working, but I don't believe that it will work without the correct digital audio output from the Macbook itself.
Any help on this issue would make me grateful.
PS: if there is either more or less support on the Windows side (via bootcamp) I would love to know that too, because in my switch to Mac, I noticed that it really doesn't have any dedicated control of the sound drivers, whereas Windows XP does.
Thanks in advance.

Ironically there's apparently a bug that forces all my flash videos to be remixed into 5.1 surround. VERY annoying because now even at hte lowest volume levels it's super loud...

New 20" aluminum imac - small dvd's

Will the new 20" Aluminum iMac's play the small DVD's that you use in the camcorders? I don't want to stick it in and never get it out.

No. Slot-loading drives can not use them, nor other odd-shaped discs. Getting the disc out would be the least of your troubles, as damage to the drive may occur.
According to the iMac's User Guide (page 50): "Use only a standard-size disc."
If you must use them get a tray-loading external drive.
Message was edited by: myhighway

FYI: New ACD Specifications

I spoke with Apple today to determine what the deal was with the recently upgraded brightness and contrast specs for the 20" and 23" Cinema Displays. They indicated that the change was actually (quietly?) made back in April 2006, and that any monitor recently sold directly by Apple should be one of the newer models. All bets are off as to age of stock for third-party distributors. Note that it would appear the Apple Part # has not changed, and that there is no date code or serial number string that can identify it as the 'newer' version without entering the number into their computer system.
Incidentally, I noticed that many of the 'ghosting' issues (or 'image persistence', as Apple chooses to term it) have cropped up in the last few months. It makes one wonder whether or not the new (upgraded) and brighter backlight has indirectly caused these issues. Since people may have been receiving these new displays for a few months now, it's at least conceivable that there is a connection. It now leads me to wonder whether the recent price drop is market-driven, or is related to this latest batch of stock which could possibly be sub-standard. I sincerely hope that is not the case, since I just bought a 23" ACD.
Be careful out there...

That was interesting.
Do you detect any backlight leakage on yours in a
dark room with the screen entirely black? That might
be an indication of an improved display you got.
To make my short story longer, here's my deal:
Bought a refurb 23" from Apple about 3 weeks ago for $1099 (ouch!), had 9 dead pixels on the left side of the screen ONLY, no ghosting issues, good color, slight backlight glow along bottom, though very good blacks (not purplish). They agreed to refund me.
Second one is now sitting on my desk via CompUSA (post-sale), May 2006 build date (per Chipmunk, thanks for that guys), only one dead pixel on the extreme right side of the screen, very good color and uniformity, some minor backlight leakage (with blacks appearing slightly purple, though not calibrated yet), but has some erratic ghosting issues. The image persistence is worst when you leave a white background with black graphics up for awhile, but it does go away, and is difficult to see with anything but a uniform desktop color (grey, especially). I'm becoming afraid that the 'image persistence' issue is a necessary evil of the upgraded backlight, though I also wonder whether or not breaking the thing in for awhile will make decrease the ghosting. The date of Apple's article on 'Image Persistence' might also lend some credence to this...
Gorgeous monitor, though, simply drop-dead beautiful.

New MacBook (Aluminum), new Time Capsule (Dual-Band), backups not working

My Mom got a new (refurbished) 13.3" MacBook (Aluminum) and new (not refurbished) Time Capsule 500 GB (Dual-Band.) The Time Capsule is working great for wireless internet and we can copy files to and from it, but Time Machine backups are not working. I enabled Time Machine, selected her TC, and then when it tries to backup it sits at the preparing stage for a little while and then gives a very unhelpful "the backup failed" message. Unfortunately I don't have the exact error message, but it never gets out of the preparing phase. It doesn't stay in preparing forever, it only stays there for a minute or so before it gives up and reports the backup failed message and stops. It's unclear to me, searching these forums, if this problem is the same as others are reporting.
I've tried turning off Time Machine and back on, removing and reselecting the Time Capsule, etc. Nothing makes a difference. There are no backup files on the TC - it's brand new.
This happened out of the box, but I also tried installing the latest Time Capsule firmware. It didn't help.

Apple needs to create a configuration tool that configures all the Apple devices one owns by creating a network diagram using drag and drop symbols...
Sounds like a cool suggestion. If you want Apple to hear it, go to www.apple.com/feedback/timecapsule.html

Migration to new macbook aluminum

I have recently purchased the latest macbook and its a happy upgrade from my ibook g4. My current problem is when doing the original migration over the wireless network after many hours, the connection failed. I then went to attempt the process again however this time via ethernet. When I went to do this, I was not prompted with the original page that asked to transfer from an old mac and went straight into the set up.
So my question is now that i have a set up macbook how do I do the migration from my old ibook?I would love to get the basics of music, pictures and documents from my old machine.
Thanks so much!!

You can, but I would suggest you simply transfer the files manually over the network. There are some caveats to consider when moving from a PPC to an Intel Mac. See the following FAQ:
A Basic Guide for Migrating to Intel-Macs
If you are migrating a PowerPC system (G3, G4, or G5) to an Intel-Mac be careful what you migrate. Keep in mind that some items that may get transferred will not work on Intel machines and may end up causing your computer's operating system to malfunction.
Rosetta supports "software that runs on the PowerPC G3, G4, or G5 processor that are built for Mac OS X". This excludes the items that are not universal binaries or simply will not work in Rosetta:
Classic Environment, and subsequently any Mac OS 9 or earlier applications
Screensavers written for the PowerPC
System Preference add-ons
All Unsanity Haxies
Browser and other plug-ins
Contextual Menu Items
Applications which specifically require the PowerPC G5
Kernel extensions
Java applications with JNI (PowerPC) libraries
See also What Can Be Translated by Rosetta.
In addition to the above you could also have problems with migrated cache files and/or cache files containing code that is incompatible.
If you migrate a user folder that contains any of these items, you may find that your Intel-Mac is malfunctioning. It would be wise to take care when migrating your systems from a PowerPC platform to an Intel-Mac platform to assure that you do not migrate these incompatible items.
If you have problems with applications not working, then completely uninstall said application and reinstall it from scratch. Take great care with Java applications and Java-based Peer-to-Peer applications. Many Java apps will not work on Intel-Macs as they are currently compiled. As of this time Limewire, Cabos, and Acquisition are available as universal binaries. Do not install browser plug-ins such as Flash or Shockwave from downloaded installers unless they are universal binaries. The version of OS X installed on your Intel-Mac comes with special compatible versions of Flash and Shockwave plug-ins for use with your browser.
The same problem will exist for any hardware drivers such as mouse software unless the drivers have been compiled as universal binaries. For third-party mice the current choices are USB Overdrive or SteerMouse. Contact the developer or manufacturer of your third-party mouse software to find out when a universal binary version will be available.
Also be careful with some backup utilities and third-party disk repair utilities. Disk Warrior 4.1, TechTool Pro 4.6.1, SuperDuper 2.5, and Drive Genius 2.0.2 work properly on Intel-Macs with Leopard. The same caution may apply to the many "maintenance" utilities that have not yet been converted to universal binaries. Leopard Cache Cleaner, Onyx, TinkerTool System, and Cocktail are now compatible with Leopard.
Before migrating or installing software on your Intel-Mac check MacFixit's Rosetta Compatibility Index.
Additional links that will be helpful to new Intel-Mac users:
Intel In Macs
Apple Guide to Universal Applications
MacInTouch List of Compatible Universal Binaries
MacInTouch List of Rosetta Compatible Applications
MacUpdate List of Intel-Compatible Software
Transferring data with Setup Assistant - Migration Assistant FAQ
Because Migration Assistant isn't the ideal way to migrate from PowerPC to Intel Macs, using Target Disk Mode, copying the critical contents to CD and DVD, an external hard drive, or networking
will work better when moving from PowerPC to Intel Macs. The initial section below discusses Target Disk Mode. It is then followed by a section which discusses networking with Macs that lack Firewire.
If both computers support the use of Firewire then you can use the following instructions:
1. Repair the hard drive and permissions using Disk Utility.
2. Backup your data. This is vitally important in case you make a mistake or there's some other problem.
3. Connect a Firewire cable between your old Mac and your new Intel Mac.
4. Startup your old Mac in Target Disk Mode.
5. Startup your new Mac for the first time, go through the setup and registration screens, but do NOT migrate data over. Get to your desktop on the new Mac without migrating any new data over.
If you are not able to use a Firewire connection (for example you have a Late 2008 MacBook that only supports USB:)
1. Set up a local home network: Creating a small Ethernet Network.
2. If you have a MacBook Air or Late 2008 MacBook see the following:
MacBook (13-inch, Aluminum, Late 2008) and MacBook Pro (15-inch, Late 2008)- Migration Tips and Tricks;
MacBook (13-inch, Aluminum, Late 2008) and MacBook Pro (15-inch, Late 2008)- What to do if migration is unsuccessful;
MacBook Air- Migration Tips and Tricks;
MacBook Air- Remote Disc, Migration, or Remote Install Mac OS X and wireless 802.11n networks.
Copy the following items from your old Mac to the new Mac:
In your /Home/ folder: Documents, Movies, Music, Pictures, and Sites folders.
In your /Home/Library/ folder:
/Home/Library/Application Support/AddressBook (copy the whole folder)
/Home/Library/Application Support/iCal (copy the whole folder)
Also in /Home/Library/Application Support (copy whatever else you need including folders for any third-party applications)
/Home/Library/Keychains (copy the whole folder)
/Home/Library/Mail (copy the whole folder)
/Home/Library/Preferences/ (copy the whole folder)
/Home /Library/Calendars (copy the whole folder)
/Home /Library/iTunes (copy the whole folder)
/Home /Library/Safari (copy the whole folder)
If you want cookies:
/Home/Library/Cookies/Cookies.plist
/Home/Library/Application Support/WebFoundation/HTTPCookies.plist
For Entourage users:
Entourage is in /Home/Documents/Microsoft User Data
Also in /Home/Library/Preferences/Microsoft
Credit goes to Macjack for this information.
If you need to transfer data for other applications please ask the vendor or ask in the Discussions where specific applications store their data.
5. Once you have transferred what you need restart the new Mac and test to make sure the contents are there for each of the applications.
Written by Kappy with additional contributions from a brody.
Revised 1/6/2009

Potential problem with all new Macbook Aluminum Displays

I have read in several threads across the internet (including this one) that people who have received the new aluminum Macbooks have been disappointed with the "greyish" quality of the displays, as well as the color saturation when compared to the older and newer Macbook Pro LED displays, as well as the original Macbook Air displays. Can current owners verify this?

I hadn't seen other threads until just now actually, but earlier today I posted a comment on this board asking for comments from others who've seen both the new MacBook and Pro next to each other so they could tell me whether I was crazy or not. Essentially the MacBook screen seemed washed out compared to the clearly more vivid colours on the Pro. The Air even seemed to have a better, brighter screen. Not sure what's the issue to be honest, but I went into the store set on a new MacBook, but left considering for the first time ever the bigger Pro simply due to the screen.
Edit: Another user posted this review, and if you scroll towards the end (where they show a DVD in the dark) the pics are quite telling and confirm (for me) that I'll get a Pro or wait for the refresh for hopefully better screens. http://gizmodo.com/5063492/macbook-and-macbook-pro-dual-review
Message was edited by: Nick A

New acd's brighter?

at work we've had 2 20" acd's at each workstation for about 2-3 years now. we just got new 30" acd's, so each workstation will have a big one and a small one. i've set up one workstation and there is a noted difference in the monitors. the 20" that we've had for a while is significantly dimmer than the 30. is this because the specs have changed and the displays these days are brighter? or is the dimness a reflection of the wear 2-3 years of constant use will have on LCD screens?
i guess basically what i'm asking is are my older ones fading on me or are the new ones just made to be brighter?
i would hope that the brightness life of LCDs is longer than that...especially since i'm considering purchasing an LCD tv for home use...if it starts dimming in the space of 2 to 3 years, i may have to wait for OLEDs to come out.
anyway, any thoughts would be appreciated.
thanks

There was a change a year or so ago that increased the brightness.

Calibrating a 23" ACD

I just attempted to calibrate my year-old 23" ACD using a Spyder2Pro. The resulting profile looked much brighter and redder than any of the other profiles such as Apple RGB, Adobe RGB (1998), Generic Monitor, NTSC (1953), etc. In fact, clicking through the profiles, most of them look identical to my eye yet quite different than my custom profile. Should I trust this custom profile, seeing as how it was tailor-made for my display, or go with the majority rule of how my display should appear?
Also, does anyone know whether I should select "Brightness" or "Backlight" during the Spyder's calibration process?

Raymond Fox wrote:
So how does one determine what standard to calibrate to?
In a picky professional setting you would choose values that are consistent with your main type of output. Actually most people should do just fine at 6500K/gamma 2.2 (I do), then set the Luminance to whatever makes it consistent with how bright your paper looks coming out of your printer. (If the monitor is too bright, for example, you will think your prints are dark but it's only because a too-high monitor brightness is creating unrealistically high brightness that can't be reproduced on paper.) The main reason to pick other values is if you are doing critical work and have a viewing booth and specific papers you need to match. Otherwise, 6500K/2.2 should be an OK setting if you don't have any other ideas.
You might want to read this article for more explanation. If you want to go deep into this, read the Real World Color Management book referred to in the link.

Color calibration on new iMac

Hi,
I am aware that the new (late 2012) iMacs are color calibrated on assembly. There is some question as to whether or not they can be re-calibrated after you purchase them.
Is anyone aware if they can be re-calibrated?
Thanks

Thanks for the answer.
What was worrisome to me was in the post below. In the section labled "The Potential Deal Breakers"
http://cdtobie.wordpress.com/2012/10/29/the-new-apple-imac-may-be-your-next-imag ing-workstation/
Here the writer mentions that the factory calibration is written into the graphics firmware never to be changed again.
Can i presume this is just not true?
For a professional photographer not to be able to re-calibrate their screen would be a nightmare.
Thanks again

Waiting it out for new ACD revisions?

I am on the edge of splurging for either a new 23 or 30 inch ACD, but I would kill myself if I bought one right before a big revisions. I have read the rumors and all, but I still have absolutely no idea what to do. To go for it, or to wait. Any suggestions??
Maybe a 24 inch HD LED introduction will come after a bit, and if that were the case, I would hate myself for buying a 23 ACD now.

"Maybe a 24 inch HD LED introduction will come after a bit, and if that were the case, I would hate myself for buying a 23 ACD now..."
It will be two weeks after you buy a current model....;)
Seriously, new displays can't be far off. It's been several years since the current line up was introduced and the displays are now the "oldest" products in the Apple lineup...

PE4 - YouTube's new 16:9 widescreen and HD quality

Hello Adobe Forums. I have a question. If you haven't noticed already, Youtube has made the video boxes wider. Some videos have vertical black bars on the left and right. If you were to upload your video with the right qualifications, you can fill those bars in to make it look like a real widescreen. Unfortunately, I don't know how to do that correctly. I've tried doin it, but I seem to fail everytime. I know I'm doin somethin wrong. This is what YouTube recommends now:
http://www.google.com/support/youtube/bin/answer.py?answer=132460&topic=16621
(Note: They made a minor typo in the beginning saying "1290 x 720" It should say "1280 x 720")
If anyone can explain to me how to exactly do this correctly, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

Actually, please excuse this. I know how to do it now. I apologize for not trying to look more into it. I did it by changing the project settings. It was the first time I really played with it. When I make a new project, I never pay much attention to the "Change, but now I know of its use.

PB TiBook broken - should I fix or get a new 15" Aluminum?

Just looking for some feedback/advice here...
The hinge and display casing on my 15" TiBook broke yesterday. It'll cost about $250 to repair - possibly more if the display casing is damaged as well as the hinge.
At this point I'm hesitant to put too much $$ into the TiBook, as I imagine I'll be getting a new PB in the next 1-2 years. However, I have invested a considerable amount in the TiBook (7200 60G internal drive, BookEndz docking station, extra RAM, Belkin USB 2.0 card) and am still somewhat reluctant to buy a new machine.
I have a few questions that might help me make my decision:
1) How significant would the performance difference be with these two machines?
2) I love the 7200 100G internal drive option on the new PBs. However, I've heard mixed reviews of their noise/heat level. What is your experience with this?
3) Does the higher resolution screen make a big difference for you?
4) Does anyone have 2G of RAM, and has that made a performance difference?
5) Any ideas for how to make use of an old TiBook?
Thanks for your advice.

I don't think I would repair the TiBook.
For starters, you can still use the TiBook - hook up a monitor, keyboard, and mouse and you have yourself a decent second system for web surfing, email, etc. - or for storing backup files.
Or, you can yank out the hard drive and put it into an enclosure at some point and use it with your new PowerBook. You should still be able to use the Belkin card with your new PB.
The performance difference would be substantial, I believe. I had a first gen aluminum, and I can tell you that my NEW Al is noticeably faster. Get it with the 7200 RPM drive for sure (well, you're already hip to that).
The screen res. of my new Al does make a big difference to me. Every pixel counts. I'm not experiencing any noise or heat issues whatsoever. Built-in bluetooth is awesome - I didn't think I'd use it, but I realized my cell phone has bluetooth so it's really easy to synch my address book with it. And an Apple Bluetooth wireless mouse is sheer mobile computing goodness. Airport extreme is sweet, too, as is USB 2.0 and FW connections. I had a TiBook at one point as well, and to me the Al just feels more professional.
I only have one gig of RAM, but it's doing just fine with it. I'm debating adding another stick, but then again I should put the money into applecare.
I have yet to shut down or restart my Al since getting it. Great battery life. I just sleep it in between uses. Oh, that's the other thing - getting a new PB will also get you a new battery.
Hope this helps.

Calibrating a New ACD Aluminum Widescreen

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