Cap6- Bugs, bugs and more bugs!

I downloaded Cap6 trial version yesterday to test their claim that it works with the SumTotal LMS and that it was thoroughly tested. After converting a project I built in Cap 5.5 to v 6 and loading it to the LMS, and testing for over 10 hours, the following items were occuring:
1)The slide transitions were not smooth, there was a milisecond of a 'blink' whenever new bulleted items were moving into the slide. The blink also occured when transitioning from slide to slide- not just with the text.
2) The functionality for the click boxes which worked in v 5.5 of the project were totally gone... although you could still see it on the slide/timeline within Captivate. The functionality simply didn't work. I had to re-create every click box and delete the old ones.
3) The audio was a complete mess... sometimes it would play in synch and other times it would get 'lost' in itself if I pressed the back navigation button.
4) The module froze after the very first quiz question and would not transition. The occurred numerous times and even after I reloaded a fresh, clean version into the LMS.
5) Overall, I believe Adobe Cap 6 is not worth the upgrade fee. The only positive thing I noticed was that users didn't get 'stuck' on the loading screen forever but that should have been a bug fix in version 5.5 anyway! That one fix isn't worth a 350.00 upgrade! Now instead of sticking on the loading screen it puts the brakes on us once the quiz begins!
Our entire organization is shelving Captivate and researching other products that perhaps may not have as many bells and whistles, but at least they will WORK on our LMS! It's very, very frustrating to spend so much development time only to have the final results not work! SumTotal wants to blame Adobe and their crappy code that's under the hood, meanwhile Adobe wants to say that it's the LMS vendor's issue. THe bottom line is that Captivate in my opinion (and I've been using this product for at least 6 years) owes it to the user community to put out a corrected version that isn't a rushed job! It's like Adobe fixes three things, then breaks five... very frustrating to say the least. I hate to leave Captivate but at this point it's not worth the headaches.
Does anyone out there have any comments about their testing of version 6 or know who we can contact to vent our frustrations about this release?

I just spent hours adjusting a demo. I recorded some new slides in between existing slides and adjusted the timing. Now, when I publish, the slides are looking like they are overlapping at some points even though it doesn't appear this way in preview. Previously, I tried to publish to youtube and HTML and the output is unacceptably buggy. I am so frustrated and disappointed in this product.

Similar Messages

The system doesn't recognize or capitalize the word (I) or the first word of every sentence. Another really annoying thing about the integrated mail on your Mac computers is the fact that the system learns the word as you type it more and more instead of

The system doesn’t recognize or capitalize the word (I) or the first word of every sentence. Another really annoying thing about the integrated mail on your Mac computers is the fact that the system learns the word as you type it more and more instead of highlighting it as incorrectly is this is a word that’s being misspelled. Can Apple fix this bug to make it user friendly as if you were using Office or a Word Document?

You hit the target CT.
It’s only fair that if Apple is going to integrate Mail into Mac PCs, it would be nice if the system does it for you like Office or perhaps Outlook. I just don’t to use Outlook although I have it installed and ready to use, but instead use Mail which comes with Mac OS already.
I hope to make some sense here.

[svn:fx-trunk] 8712: Fix embedded fonts in RSLs ( and more complex module topologies)

Revision: 8712
Author:   [email protected]
Date:     2009-07-21 10:39:03 -0700 (Tue, 21 Jul 2009)
Log Message:
Fix embedded fonts in RSLs (and more complex module topologies)
QE Notes: None
Doc Notes: None
Bugs: SDK-22313
Reviewer: Darrell, Gordon
API Change: None
Is noteworthy for integration: No
tests: checkintests mustella/gumbo/components/TextInput mustella/gumbo/components/TextArea
Ticket Links:
    http://bugs.adobe.com/jira/browse/SDK-22313
Modified Paths:
    flex/sdk/trunk/frameworks/projects/framework/src/mx/core/FlexModuleFactory.as
    flex/sdk/trunk/frameworks/projects/framework/src/mx/managers/SystemManager.as
    flex/sdk/trunk/frameworks/projects/spark/src/spark/primitives/RichEditableText.as
    flex/sdk/trunk/modules/compiler/src/java/flex2/tools/PreLink.java

Hi Stephan,
this solved placing both animation on one page. Make sure all your fonts are called out in the <head> section like for example:
<script>var __adobewebfontsappname__="dreamweaver"</script>
<script src="http://use.edgefonts.net/quicksand:n3,n4:default.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
Dreamweaver does this automatic for you. If you are having a font conflict I recommend under command (if you are using dreamweaver)
Clean up the font Tag and add only the ones that you are using again, sometimes they accumulate.
Good Luck.

Adobe software is getting more and more buggier

So, this is getting very frustating...
I have noticed that Adobe software is featuring more and more bugs in the latest versions. (CC)
Bug in After Effects is the following: there is this new feature that automatic reloads footage. So if you rendering a 3d sequence, AE reloads the seq.
A very weard thing is that if you load a sequence starting from 'filename.750.jpg' to 'filename.1400.jpg' AE CANNOT find the footage on a new startup of the project.
If you render the movie, you get those coloured bars. One can notice the bug when the footage in the project window is displaying blablag[0750]. Notice that this filename has a leading zero. The only solution to be absolutly sure that the sequence is fully loaded is to reimport that sequence. (do not replace, really import a new sequence) (which is a pain if you a few)
Then the filename will display no leading zeros.
(not sure if one can disable this autoload, but even if I can, I dont want to disable that, I want that feature to work)
Another bug: it is impossible to use the effect Timecode, AE will crash.
btw, photoshop CC also features some bugs. Smart layers are broken, photoshop will crash. Airbrush is crashing. And all this is on very powerfull machine.
Has anybody noticed the same thing????
Very frustating, I have some deadlines and I cannot effort to rerender the whole bunch over and over again.
Some machine info:
Using the latest CC software
on a macbook pro retina, highest model from 2013.
Newest OSX system.
16 gig ramm
over 100gig is still free.

has that been changed since AE CC?
I never had any issues importing a sequence. Also, I noticed that I really need to pick the first frame of a sequence. In this case, blablag.750.jpg. That was never been an issue. In the previous versions, you could always pick a random frame and AE just automatic fixes the start and end frame of the sequence. Now you have to be really carefull. Also, this doesn't explain, why AE just shows up the sequence perfectly fine, but on a restart of AE of a background render, things goes wrong.
weard....

I want a new and more powerful (non-Apple) wireless router but I still want to use my existing Time Capsule to continue with my Time Machine backups and I still need the Time Capsule's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features and capabilities

THE SHORTER STORY
My goal is to successfully use my existing Time Capsule (TC) with a new and more powerful wireless router. I need a new and more powerful wireless router in order to reach a distant Denon a/v receiver that is physically located in a master bedroom some 50 feet away from my modem. I need to provide this Denon a/v receiver with an Internet connection so that it can obtain its firmware updates and I need to connect this Denon a/v receiver to my network in order to use its AirPlay feature. I believe l still need the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features because I am not sure if the new wireless router will provide me with the NAS like features / capabilities I need to share files between my two Apple laptops with OS X 10.8.2. And I know that I absolutely need my TC's seamless integration with Apple's Time Machine (TM) application in order to continue to make effortless backups of my two Apple laptops. To my knowledge nothing works with TM like Apple's TC. I also need the hard disk storage space built into the TC.
I cannot use a long wired Ethernet cable connection in this apartment and I cannot use power-line adapters. I have read that wireless range extenders and repeaters are difficult to successfully set-up and that they will reduce data speeds, especially so when incorrectly set-up. I cannot relocate my modem and/or primary base station wireless router.
In short, I want to use my TC with my new and more powerful wireless router. I need to stop using the TC to connect to the modem. However, I still need the TC for seamless TM backups. I also need to use the TC's built in hard drive for storage. And I may still need the TC's NAS capabilities to share files wirelessly between laptops because I am assuming the new wireless router will not provide NAS capabilities for OS X 10.8.2 (products like this/non-Apple products rarely seem to work with OS X 10.8.2/Macs to provide NAS features and capabilities). Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone please advise on how to set-up my new Asus wireless router with my existing TC in such a way to accomplish all of this?
What is the best configuration or set-up to accomplish my above goals?
Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!
THE FULL STORY
I live in an apartment building where my existing Time Capsule (TC) is located in my living room and serves many purposes. Specially, my TC is at least all of the following:
(1) Wi-Fi router connected to Comcast Internet service via Motorola SB6121 cable modem - currently the TC is the Wi-Fi base station that connects to the modem and has the gateway address to the Internet. The TC now provides the DHCP service for the Wi-Fi network.
(2) Wireless router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to several Wi-Fi clients - two Apple laptop computers, an iPod touch, an iPad and an iPhone all connect wirelessly to the Internet via the TC.
(3) Wired Ethernet router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to three different devices - a Panasonic TV, LG Blu-Ray player and an Apple TV each use one of the three LAN ports on the back of the TC to gain access to the Internet.
(4) Primary base station in my attempt to extend my wireless network to a distant (located far away) Denon a/v receiver requiring a wired Ethernet connection - In addition to the TC, which is my primary base station, I am also using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. I cannot use a wired Ethernet connection to continuously travel from the living room to the master bedroom. The distance is too great as I cannot effectively hide the Ethernet cable in this apartment.
(5) Time Machine (TM) backup facilitator - I use my TC to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops using Apple's Time Machine (TM) application. However, I ran out of storage space on my TC and therefore added external storage to it. Specifically, I added an external hard drive to my TC via the USB port on the back of the TC. I now use this added external hard drive connected to the TC via USB as the destination storage drive for my TM back-ups. I have partitioned the added external hard drive, and each of the several partitions all have enough storage space (e.g., each of the two partitions used by TM are sized at three times the hard drive space of each laptop, etc.). Everything works flawlessly.
(6) Network Attached Storage (NAS) - In addition to using the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) capabilities to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops via TM, I also store other additional files on both (A) the hard drive built into the TC and (B) the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB (there are additional separate partitions on this drive for these other additional and non-TM backup files).
I use the TC's NAS feature with my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Again, everything works wirelessly and flawlessly. (Note: the Apple TV is connected to the network via Ethernet and a LAN port on the back of the TC).
The issue I am having is when I try to listen to music via Apple's AirPlay in the master bedroom. This master bedroom is located at a distance of two rooms away from the TC's current location in the living room, which is a distance of about 50 feet. This apartment has a long rectangular floor plan where each room is connected to the next in a straight line. In order to use AirPlay in the master bedroom I am using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. This additional base station connects wirelessly to the WiFi network provided by my TC and then gives my Denon receiver the wired Ethernet connection it needs to use AirPlay. I have tried moving my iTunes music directly onto my laptop's hard drive, and then I used AirPlay on this same laptop to connect to the Denon receiver. I always get a successful connection and the song plays, but the problem is that the connection inevitably drops.
I live in an apartment building and all of the many wireless routers in this building create a great deal of WiFi interference on both the 2.4 GHz and 5GHz bands. I have tried connecting the Netgear product to each the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands, but neither band can successfully maintain a wireless connection between the TC and the Netgear product. I also attempted to maintain a wireless connection to an iPod touch using the 2.4 GHz band and AirPlay on this iPod touch to play music on the Denon receiver. Again, I was able to establish a connection and successfully play music, but after a few minutes the connection dropped and the music stopped playing. I therefore have concluded that I have a poor wireless connection in the master bedroom. I can establish a connection, but it is intermittent with frequent drops. I have verified this with both laptops by working in the master bedroom for an entire day on both laptops. The Internet connection in this master bedroom proved to drop out frequently - about once an hour with the laptops. The wireless connection and the frequency of its dropout are far worse with the iPod touch and an iPhone.
I cannot relocate the TC. Also, this is an apartment and I therefore cannot extend the range of my network with Ethernet cable (I cannot drill through walls/ceilings, etc.). It is an old building with antiquated wiring and power-line adapters are not likely to function properly, nor can I spare the direct power outlet required with a power-line adapter. I simply need every outlet I can get and cannot afford to block any direct outlet.
My solution is to use a more powerful wireless router. I found the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router which will likely provide a better connection to my wireless Internet in the master bedroom than the TC. The 802.11ac band of this Asus wireless router is totally useless to me, but based on what I have read I believe this router will provide a stronger connection at greater distances then my TC. And I will be ready for 802.11ac when it becomes more widely available.
However, I still need to maintain the TC's ability to work seamlessly with TM to backup my two laptops. Also, I doubt the new Asus router will provide OS X 10.8.2 with NAS like features and capabilities. Therefore, I still would like to use the TC's NAS capabilities to share files on my network wirelessly assuming the Asus wireless router fails to provide this feature. I need a new and more powerful wireless router, but I need to maintain the TC's NAS features and seamless integration with TM. Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone advise on how to set-up my existing TC with this new Asus wireless router in such a way to accomplish all of this?
Modem
Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Existing Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Apple Time Capsule
Apple Time Capsule MC343LL/A 1TB Sim DualBand (purchased June 2010, likely the Winter 2009 Model)
Desired New Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Non-Apple Asus
ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router
Extended Wi-Fi Base Station - Provides an Ethernet Connection to a Denon A/V Receiver Two Rooms Away from the Modem
Netgear Universal Dual Band Wireless Internet Adapter for TV & Blu-Ray (WNCE3001)
Addition External Hard Drive Attached to the Existing Apple Time Capsule via USB
WD My Book Studio 4TB Mac External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0
Existing Laptops on the Wireless Network Requiring Time Machine Backups
MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2012) OS X 10.8.2
MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2010) OS X 10.8.2
Other Existing Apple Products (Clients) on the Wireless Network
iPod Touch (second generation) is model A1288.
iPad (1st generation)
Apple TV (3rd generation) - Quantity two (2)

Thanks Bob Timmons.
In regards to a Plan B, I hear ya brother. I am already on what feels like Plan Z. Getting WiFi to a far off room in an apartment building crowded with WiFi routers is a major pain.
I am basing my thoughts on the potential of a new and more powerful router reaching the far off master bedroom based on positive reviews on cnet.com, pcmag.com and pcworld.com. All 3 of these web sites have reviewed the Asus RT-AC66U 802.11AC wireless router as well as its virtual twin cousin 802.11n router. What impressed me is that all 3 sites rated this router #1 overall in terms of both range and speed (in both the 802.11n and 802.11AC flavors). They tested the router in real world scenarios where the router needed to compete with a lot of other wireless routers. One of the sites even buried this Asus router in a media room with thick walls and inside a media cabinet. This Asus router should be able to serve my 2.4 GHz band wireless clients (iPod Touch and iPhone 4) with a 2.4GHz Wireless-N band offering some 50 feet of dependable range and a 60 Mbps throughput at that range. I am hoping that works, but it's borderline for my master bedroom. My 5 GHz wireless clients (laptops) will enjoy a 5GHz Wireless-N band offering 150 feet of range and a 200 Mbps throughput at that range. I have no idea what most of that stuff means, but I did also read that Asus could reach 300 feet and I got really excited. My mileage may vary of course and I'm sure I'm making some mistakes in my interpretation of their data. However, my Winter 2009 Time Capsule was rated by cnet.com to deliver real world performance of less than that, and 802.11AC may or may not be useful to me someday. But when this Asus arrives and provides anything other than an excellent and consistent wireless signal without drops in the master bedroom it's going right back!
Your solution sounds great, but I have some questions. I'm using OS X 10.8.2 and Airport Utility (version 6.1 610.31) and on its third tab labeled "Wireless" the top option enables you to set "Network Mode" to either:
Create a wireless network
Extend a wireless network
Off
Given your advice to "Turn off the wireless on the TC," should I set Network Mode to Off? Sorry, I'm clueless in regards to how to turn off the wireless on the TC any other way. Can you provide specific steps on how to turn off the wireless on the TC? If what I wrote is correct then what should the rest of this Wireless tab look like, or perhaps it is irrelevant when wireless is off?
Next, what do you mean by "Configure the TC in Bridge Mode?" Under Airports Utility's fourth tab labeled "Network" the top option "Router Mode" allows for either:
DHCP and Nat
DHCP Only
Off (Bridge Mode)
Is your advice to Configure the TC in Bridge Mode as simple as setting Router Mode to Off (Bridge Mode)? If yes, then what should the rest of this "Network" tab look like? Anything else involved in configuring the TC in Bridge Mode or is it really as simple as setting the Router Mode to "Off (Bridge Mode)"?
How about the other tabs in Airport Utility, can they all stay as is assuming I use the same network name and password for the new Asus wireless router? Or do I need to make any other changes to the TC via Airport Utility?
Finally, in regards to your Plan B suggestion. I agree. But do you have a Plan B for me? I would greatly appreciate any alternative you could provide. Specifically, if you needed a TC's Internet connection to reach a far off corner of your home how would you do it? In the master bedroom I need both a wired Ethernet connection for the Denon a/v receiver and wireless Internet connection for the iPhone and iPod Touch.
Power-Line Adapters - High Cost, Blocks at Least One Wall Outlet and Does Not Solve the Wireless Need
I actually like exactly one power-line adapter, which is the D-Link DHP-540 PowerLine AV 500 4-Port Gigabit Switch. This D-Link power-line adapter plugs into your wall outlet with a normal sized plug (regular standard power cord much like any other electronic device) instead of all of the other recommended power-line adapters that not only use at least one wall outlet but also often block the second outlet. You cannot use a power strip with a power-line adapter which is very impractical for me. And everything about my home is strange and upside down. The wiring here is a disaster and I don't have faith in its ability to carry Internet access from the living room to the master bedroom. And this D-Link power-line adapter costs $90 each and I need at least two to make the connection to the Denon A/V receiver. So, $180 on this solution and I still don't have a dependable drop free wireless connection in the master bedroom. The Denon might get its Ethernet Internet connection from the power-line adapter, but if I want to use an iPhone 4 or iPod Touch to stream AirPlay music to the Denon wirelessly (Pandora/iTunes, etc.) from the master bedroom the wireless connection will not be stable in there and I've already spent $190 on just the two power-line adapters needed.
Extenders / Repeaters / Wirelessly Extending the Wireless Network
I have also read great things about the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Gigabit Dual Band Range Extender (Repeater) SR20000G and the My Net Wi-Fi Range Extender. The former is very powerful and the latter is easier to install. Both cost about $150 ish so similar to a new Asus router. However, everything I read about Range Extenders points to them not being very effective for a far off corner of your house wherein it's apparently hard to place the range extender in the sweet spot where it both gets a strong enough signal to actually effectively extend the wireless signal and otherwise does not reduce network throughput speeds to unacceptable speeds.
Creating a Roaming Network By Hard Wiring with Ethernet Cable - Wife Would Say, "**** No!"
Even Apple seems to warn against wirelessly extending your network (see: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4145#) and otherwise strongly recommends a roaming network where Ethernet cable is used to connect two wireless base stations. However, I am in an apartment where stringing together two wireless base stations with Ethernet cable would have an extremely low wife acceptance factor (WAF). I cannot (both contractually and from a skill prospective) hide Ethernet wire in the walls or ceiling. And having visible Ethernet cable running from room-to-room would be unacceptable, especially to the wife.
So what is left? Do you have a Plan B for me? Thanks in advance for your help!

Is there a way of remote accessing 'Games and More' on a mobile?

I am new to the forum, please excuse me if I am in the wrong space!
Is there a way of remotely accessing/executing Java applications that are residing in the 'Games and More.' folder on a mobile device?
e.g. Java application is downloaded into 'Games and More' and there is a requirement to execute the program from an ODP (On-Device-Portal). The ODP is external to the 'Games and More' folder but within the same mobile device.
Many thanks
Ian

IVM wrote:
Is there a way of remotely accessing/executing Java applications that are residing in the 'Games and More.' folder on a mobile device? No.
db

With the new actualization of my ipod, app store wont let me download apps like kik, tumblr and more, i really need kik cause theres were i text my friends, what is happening?

With the new actualization of my ipod, app store wont let me download apps like kik, tumblr and more, i really need kik cause theres were i text my friends, what is happening?

What does "new actualization" mean?
Do you have Restrictions set that world prevent installing those apps? Settings>General>Restrictions

I need your help with a decision to use iPhoto. I have been a PC user since the mid 1980's and more recently have used ACDSee to manage my photo images and Photoshop to edit them. I have used ProShow Gold to create slideshows. I am comfortable with my

I need your help with a decision to use iPhoto. I have been a PC user since the mid 1980’s and more recently have used ACDSee to manage my photo images and Photoshop to edit them. I have used ProShow Gold to create slideshows. I am comfortable with my own folder and file naming conventions. I currently have over 23,000 images of which around 60% are scans going back 75 years. Since I keep a copy of the originals, the storage requirements for over 46,000 images is huge. 180GB plus.
I now have a Macbook Pro and will add an iMac when the new models arrive. For my photos, I want to stay with Photoshop which also gives me the Bridge. The only obvious reason to use iPhoto is to take advantage of Faces and the link to iMovie to make slideshows. What am I missing and is using iPhoto worth the effort?
If I choose to use iPhoto, I am not certain whether I need to load the originals and the edited versions. I suspect that just the latter is sufficient. If I set PhotoShop as my external editor, I presume that iPhoto will keep track of all changes moving forward. However, over 23,000 images in iPhoto makes me twitchy and they are appear hidden within iPhoto. In the past, I have experienced syncing problems with, and database errors in, large databases. If I break up the images into a number of projects, I loose the value of Faces reaching back over time.
Some guidance and insight would be appreciated. I have a number of Faces questions which I will save for later.

Bridge and Photoshop is a common file-based management system. (Not sure why you'd have used ACDSEE as well as Bridge.) In any event, it's on the way out. You won't be using it in 5 years time.
Up to this the lack of processing power on your computer left no choice but to organise this way. But file based organisation is as sensible as organising a Shoe Warehouse based on the colour of the boxes. It's also ultimately data-destructive.
Modern systems are Database driven. Files are managed, Images imported, virtual versions, lossless processing and unlimited editing are the way forward.
For a Photographer Photoshop is overkill. It's an enormously powerful app, a staple of the Graphic Designers' trade. A Photographer uses maybe 15% to 20% of its capability.
Apps like iPhoto, Lightroom, Aperture are the way forward - for photographers. There's the 20% of Photoshop that shooters actually use, coupled with management and lossless processing. Pop over to the Aperture or Lightroom forums (on the Adobe site) and one comment shows up over and over again... "Since I started using Aperture/ Lightroom I hardly ever use Photoshop any more..." and if there is a job that these apps can do, then the (much) cheaper Elements will do it.
The change is not easy though, especially if you have a long-standing and well thought out filing system of your own. The first thing I would strongly advise is that you experiment before making any decisions. So I would create a Library, import 300 or 400 shots and play. You might as well do this in iPhoto to begin with - though if you’re a serious hobbyist or a Pro then you'll find yourself looking further afield pretty soon. iPhoto is good for the family snapper, taking shots at birthdays and sharing them with friends and family.
Next: If you're going to successfully use these apps you need to make a leap: Your files are not your Photos.
The illustration I use is as follows: In my iTunes Library I have a file called 'Let_it_Be_The_Beatles.mp3'. So what is that, exactly? It's not the song. The Beatles never wrote an mp3. They wrote a tune and lyrics. They recorded it and a copy of that recording is stored in the mp3 file. So the file is just a container for the recording. That container is designed in a specific way attuned to the characteristics and requirements of the data. Hence, mp3.
Similarly, that Jpeg is not your photo, it's a container designed to hold that kind of data. iPhoto is all about the data and not about the container. So, regardless of where you choose to store the file, iPhoto will manage the photo, edit the photo, add metadata to the Photo but never touch the file. If you choose to export - unless you specifically choose to export the original - iPhoto will export the Photo into a new container - a new file containing the photo.
When you process an image in iPhoto the file is never touched, instead your decisions are recorded in the database. When you view the image then the Master is presented with these decisions applied to it. That's why it's lossless. You can also have multiple versions and waste no disk space because they are all just listings in the database.
These apps replace the Finder (File Browser) for managing your Photos. They become the Go-To app for anything to do with your photos. They replace Bridge too as they become a front-end for Photoshop.
So, want to use a photo for something - Export it. Choose the format, size and quality you want and there it is. If you're emailing, uploading to websites then these apps have a "good enough for most things" version called the Preview - this will be missing some metadata.
So it's a big change from a file-based to Photo-based management, from editing files to processing Photos and it's worth thinking it through before you decide.

How can I use TopLink for querys that have two and more tables?

I use TopLink today, and I can use one table to query, but how can I use TopLink for querys that have two and more tables?
Thank you for see and answer this question.

You can write a custom SQL query and map it to an object as needed. You can also use the Toplink query language "anyOf" or "get" commands to map two tables as long as you map them as one to one (get command) or one to many (anyOf command) in the toplink mapping workbench.
Zev.
check out oracle.toplink.expressions.Expression in the 10.1.3 API

My old email address was hacked and I am no longer able to access it. How can i reset my icloud ID without losing all of my pictures and more inportantly contacts? I have created a new ID but i cannot seem to use it until I delete the old account

my old email address was hacked and I am no longer able to access it. How can i reset my icloud ID without losing all of my pictures and more importantly contacts? I have created a new ID but i cannot seem to use it until I delete the old account

You need to use the old ID and password to delete the iCloud account. After you delete the old account, you can sign in with the new ID in iCloud.
Have you seen this.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5796
iCloud
iOS 6 and later: Go to Settings > iCloud.
If you signed out before changing your Apple ID, enter your current Apple ID to sign in. The data from your iCloud account will download to your device.
If you're still signed in with your previous Apple ID:
Scroll down and tap Delete Account. Depending on what iCloud options are turned on, you'll be asked to confirm that you want to delete data from your device. To confirm, tap Delete. (If you're using iOS 7 and have Find My iPhone turned on, you'll be asked to enter the password for your previous Apple ID. Enter the password, then tap Turn Off.) The data will be deleted from your device, but not from iCloud.
Enter your current Apple ID to sign in. The data from your iCloud account will download again to your device.

How long is your shutdowntime from MBP Retina 13" ML? (and more)-Please help!

Hello everyone,
I have been searching in this Support Community for a while, but I cannot really find a solution/answer to my issue(s):
Note: If you do not feel like reading my whole story, PLEASE only post your shutdown time from your MacBook Pro Retina 13", 2.5GHz, 8GB with Mountain Lion.
I have bought a new MBP Retina 13", 8GB, 128GB (basic model) at the 23rd of DEC 2012 and I have not got the chance to really use it because it keeps getting problems (trackpad was not working well, battery health never 100%, shutdown time of 23secs and more - will tell). Called Apple Care within 5 days: Told me this all is not the way it should be, advised me to go to the Apple Store to let it check (traveling time for me is about 2 hours).
Went to the Apple Store in Amsterdam (I live in the NL) with these issues (bought this MB at a reseller abroad though - cannot go back): Genius told me some hardware should be replaced because this is not a software problem (tested). I mentioned the DOA Policy, because I did not even got the chance to use my new precious rMBP and I mentioned this problem within the 14 days. He told me I could NOT get a new rMBP from them, because I did not bought it straight from Apple (Apple Store online/offline). Okay fair enough, I let it repaired: new SSD 128GB including top case, new trackpad, new battery. Found it a little bit doubtful to replace this kind of hardware from a 2-week old rMBP.. Picked it up 7 days later.
Tested it somewhere in a quiet place nearby the Apple Store. Trackpad was working as it should be, battery health was 100%, shutdown time was still 23 seconds.. Rebooted that thing, waited for 5min (staring at it) and shut it down again; 23 seconds. Started it up, opened only Safari and iPhoto, shut it down right afterwards, 23 seconds.
Went straight back to the Apple Store. Told a Genius at the Bar what was going on. He tested it, told me this is NOT normal. Took it to the technician room, they tested it for like 15min, came back with the technician man, told me that this was NOT normal, BUT they could not find what causes this and told me they have never seen/heard this issue before. Got the 'manager' to talk to me (his nametag did not tell he was the manager though) and suddenly it was a 'non-issue' and told me to go home..?!
I told him the whole story - again, mentioned that I had also shut down some MBP Retina's 8GB in different Apple Resellers and this particular Apple Store, and ALL shut down within like 3-5sec. He said I could not compare these models with my rMBP because those probably (probably) are all demo models. Okay, so what is he telling me, that I got fooled by Apple; their show models are working better than the one I bought?
Anyway, got over this, I thought if everything is working well then I just leave it this way. Then two days later the battery health drops to 98% with 2 load cycles, and System Information and Coconut Battery gave a different battery charge than the one in the right upper corner of my screen (5% higher on the screen).
Also, my storage gets fuller and fuller by the day, while my rMBP is still empty from files. The only thing I did was installing iWork '09, MS Office 2011 and Coconut Battery. And the only thing I did those days was surfing around to find answers for my issues (instead of studying). So only Safari has been used. My storage space left at this moment is 88GB from my 128GB, so what is happening? I checked a lot about this at this Community, tried a lot, nothing works.
And third, my shutdown time is still 23 seconds, while a friend of mine owns a new MacBook Air 13", 4GB SSD, Mountain Lion and his shutdown time is like 4 seconds. All my Macs with Mountain Lion shut down within like right away, 4 seconds. And they do not even have SSD and 8GB. So how can this be 'not an issue' (manager did not used the word NORMAL) with my NEW rMBP?
I am familiar with working with Apple Products since a very long time, I have been using iMacs and other MacBooks for the last 6 years and I have never (ever) had this much trouble with an Apple product. I am highly disappointed and I think I have the right for a new rMBP - since replacing 3 major hardware parts, speaking with Apple Care for 6 times and going to an Apple Store twice, within ONE MONTH is not solving all these problems. I think a MacBook worth €1800 (in the NL) should not be like this!
Thank you for reading this whole story. I thought I should tell you everything in detail so you have all the information you might need to help me out with maybe one of these problems.
I thank you very much in advance!

Well to update my own thread just for the people who are reading or for the people who are also searching for an answer:
I was sick of it that Apple Care told me to go to the Apple Store and Apple Store told me to call Apple Care.. So I decided to tell my story to.. Tim Cook. I know.. but I did email him, and I know.. he won't be reading those emails himself. Anyway, wasn't expecting to hear anything from Apple HQ any time soon, but it already gave me a better feeling to email this.
The very next day I got a call from the Apple Store right away: I was getting a new rMBP! And I am typing on it right now. Everything works perfectly fine and the shutdown time is sometimes 3-4 seconds and sometimes it takes a little bit longer, like about 20 seconds.
But the shutdown time wasn't the only issue that I emailed for - I know this thread was about the shutdown time so I am coming back on that.
The conclusion I can make based on my experiences with Mountain Lion on different Macs in this house (and my two Retina's I worked on) is the same as what already is mentioned before; it has to do with Mountain Lion.
BUT, in MY case and the reason why I opened this thread, it was NOT Mountain Lion. It was my rMBP for sure.

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rd

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