Change image from 300 to 72 dpi with Photoshop elements 13?
Want to buy an image for a Kindle cover which is only available in the size required by Kindle as a 300 dpi image.Can I change It to 72 dpi with my Photoshop elements 13?
So, on a copy I made of the image I want,I did go to "file", Then "save for Web", and made the long size 800 pixels, and saved that as JPEG..
But in that particular window, I didn't see "Constrain proportions" anywhere.
Yesterday,with that image, I did go "image" and then "resize", and did have checked "constrain proportions". That is, I'm presently working with a resized image, that includes a few text inserts and one simple custom shape..
But do I have to start with a fresh, Unedited image?
You continue to be marvelous help. I'm so grateful.
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Change plattform from windows to mac teacher edition photoshop elements/premier elements
Hi!
I want just want to change plattform, Adobe Photoshop Elements 13 & Adobe Premiere Elements 13 Student and Teacher Edition (Windows,Svenska).
I´ve ordered Windows but i want the macversion.
Does anybody know why the adobe support takes soon long time to fix this small thing. I haven't downloaded the program.
Is this normal ??? Has anyone else experienced the same thing?Hi!
No, i haven't downloaded it yet!
/P
Skickat från min iPhone
24 nov 2014 kl. 23:15 skrev Jeff A Wright <[email protected]>:
Change plattform from windows to mac teacher edition photoshop elements/premier elements
created by Jeff A Wright in Student and Teacher Edition Information - View the full discussion
Svea support the license for Photoshop and Premiere Elements 13 is a multi platform license. Have you downloaded the installation files and ran the installation with the serial number you received?
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Bridge Exports Changes Resolution from 300 to 72 dpi, resizing my image
I like to use Bridge (CS5) to export my photographs for printing, and frequently I will use the Export feature to resize the images (e.g., 5x7 vs full size), but every time I export it recharacterizes the images as 72 dpi, vs the 300 dpi I prefer.
Consistent with some of the previous postings (~2 yrs ago) I have seen on this topic the exported images are now "sized" much bigger (29"x20" for what should have been ~5"x7"), and hence expectantly I haven't lost any resolution, but it's aggrevating to have the dpi changed.
Can anyone tell me how to export without having the dpi changed?
And while I'm at it, can anyone confirm that I'm not loosing image resolution?
Thanks so much!!Can anyone tell me how to export without having the dpi changed?
Can't find any other settings to change and just having tested it I can confirm that it sets ppi (it is pixels per inch -ppi- for a digital file which is made from pixels and dots per inch -dpi- from the ink dots of a print ) to 72.
And while I'm at it, can anyone confirm that I'm not loosing image resolution?
You already stated yourself that you did not loose pixels, therefor the size of the files stays the same. It is just a mater of figures. 300 ppi means a larger concentration per inch and 72 pixels per inch means a smaller concentration of pixels per inch. Given the same amount of pixels for both settings this means a smaller image dimension for 300 ppi and a larger image dimension for the 72 ppi.
300 ppi is some 'magic' number from printed press, but it really depends on the need of the job related printing machine. If you have a small image and need to look closely it should have a larger concentration per inch to reflect its sharpness.
However theoretically you would almost have the same visible quality when printed on 72 at billboard sizes. That's because you always have a large distance between your eyes and the bill board. If you look closely you will see the dots (because the billboard is a product of ink dots…) but of course it is not meant to study at that close range.
The same is for judging sharpness on your computer. Ideally you do so at 100 % for correct judgement at real size pixels. But in reality there will be almost no situation you will study a print at that same distance
Any thoughts on why these would be different? And am I fretting over things unncessarily?
Only guesses, the use a different algorithm or calculation scheme, in my case I tried a Canon Raw (converted to DNG) without any ACR settings then the basics applied and found that Bridge export jpeg 11 creates larger files then using PS.
But there are some other concerns I have and that certainly would make me fretting in use of export module:
First of all I almost never use it, merely in this cases for testing, because using the menu tools give a shortcut to Photoshop / Batch and inhere I have created several dedicated resizing and resaving actions that also places the files in preset folders.
But with this small test I found out that
a: it changes ppi to 72 ppi, not a very big deal but I did not asked for it nor did I wanted it.
b: it converts my Adobe RGB color space to sRGB and I certainly did not want that without my explicit wish for this conversion, so this is more then a bit worrying to my concern.
c: it seems to apply a sharpness that I certainly did not want to happen without my knowledge, and this rules the use of the export module out completely.
Since I only tried a DNG file without settings or retouch/developing in Photoshop the jpeg generated by PS was not very sharp. This makes sense to me because I have set my basic ACR to apply sharpening only to preview. There are a lot of different sharpening theories around but I use one in PS itself. So I was a bit shocked to learn that the export module did all those for me unwanted and not adjustable settings putting me completely out of control…
So if you want to have full control about things happening under the hood yourself just start creating actions in PS, it is very easy to record an action and even more easier to play it. Instead of every time dragging files to export module and always recheck the image options (it seems to reset itself always to jpeg quality 8 on my system) only select the files you want to resize and choose menu tool / Photoshop Batch and select the wanted action. hit OK and your almost done, PS does the rest.
The great thing of the latest PS CS6 action pallet is the extension with a so called 'insert conditional' that let's you create an 'if - then else' action for both landscape and portrait resizing actions so you don't need the 'constrain to fit' or 'fit image' option. Just once create an action for both resizing dimensions and then create a new action with insert conditional. choose If image is landscape play action…. / else play action….
It is really a very productive way. I have a lot of actions (organized in sets for better overview) and even one that creates 4 different sizes in 4 different folders using 1 go in Bridge -
After clicking print the menu that comes up does not allow for a change in paper type. Where can I change the paper type. OS 10.10 Yosemite with Photoshop Elements 13. I have a windows computer with the same program and the print menu has a paper settings option but not on the the mac. What gives. Is the Elements 13 not compatible with the OS 10 Yosemite? Thanks for any help
If you delete all the Adobe Reader stuff it will probably fix this. For almost everything, the Apple pdf handling works better.
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I have a packardbell laptop with photoshop elements 8 installed from new. I have used it on several occasions but I cannot get it to run now. When I open a photo using elements the Adobe box pops up saying that the programme has unexpectedley quit? can anyone help me please as I have several photos to edit before the end of this month. Many thanks for any help
The "restore disk" is built into the Mac. See About Recovery.
Need more specifics about what error messages you got while installing Adobe Flash.
However, you can almost avoid Flash altogether by setting YouTube to play the HTML5 version instead.
Click the Try something new! link at the bottom of the YouTube page.
I don't know about the sound issue. Might be hardware as you think. Try other headphones to check. -
I recently bought, from the original website of Adobe, Photoshop elements 13. However, when I go with my mouse pointer over the menu, It hangs or he works very slow. Does anyone have an idea how I can fix it? I have already downloaded updates, both from Adobe and Windows. I have a new pc with window 8.1.
It could be a coincidence, but I rebooted the machine and (knock on wood) PSE13 seems to be working ok.
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I recently upgraded our iMac to Yosemite OS and now have a problem with Photoshop Elements 11: the move tool selects an image or text layer, but then I try to drag the selection somewhere else on the page and it snaps back to the original location, however the arrows will move it OK. Also I cannot drag the selection to another photo in the photo bin as before.
Hi,
Please refer: http://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop-elements/kb/pse-stops-responding-yosemite.html
Thanks,
Anwesha -
I am encountering crashes with Photoshop Elements 12. If I uninstall and then reinstall the software, will I jeopardize the 100s of photo images I have already moved into the Organizer? Any cautions for me?
If the app is designed correctly, the no, you won't. However, you'd have to ask the people who wrote the software, Adobe.
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RAW editing workflow with Photoshop Elements 6
I have been using the following workflow with RAW images in iPhoto and editing them in Photoshop Elements 6. It seems to be working fine. Does anyone see a problem with my workflow???
I choose to edit in external editor (Elements 6), and the image opens in Camera Raw. I make my edits here because I really like the editing power of Camera Raw. After I am finished, I chose Save As and choose jpeg. The save dialog tries to save back to the Originals folder in the iPhoto Library that the RAW file came from, so I simply choose the appropriate event in the Modified folder and save it there. It replaces the jpeg that iPhoto had created when the original RAW file was imported. When I go back to iPhoto the changes are applied.
Now I realize that I can't reopen the original RAW file again in Elements without reverting to original, but that is usually not an issue. I also realize that messing with the iPhoto Library outside of iPhoto can be dangerous. Another drawback is that I haven't been able to open multiple RAW photos from iPhoto into Camera Raw so I can apply changes all at once.
But I can't see anything wrong with the workflow. Am I on the right track, or am I missing something?No, I don't believe you can do that with RAW editing. By manually replacing the first modified version with your RAW edited version iPhoto will not update the thumbnail. You will be able to see the edited version if you go to the edit mode or full screen mode. But the thumbnail will not be identical. If that's OK with you then you should be able to go with that workflow.
If the edits are significant enough you might want to save the new file to the desktop and import as a new file.
You can try this on a copy of the iPhoto Library. Open the library package and move the contents of the Data folder to the trash along with the Thumb32Segment.data, Thumb642Segment.data and ThumbJPGSegment.data files. Then launch iPhoto with the Command+Option keys depressed and follow the instructions to rebuild the library. Select the first three options. This will rebuild the thumbnail files and my reflect your edited versions. Again, make a backup copy of the library before trying this.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto (iPhoto.Library for iPhoto 5 and earlier) database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger or later), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 6 and 7 libraries and Tiger and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.≤br>
Note: There now an Automator backup application for iPhoto 5 that will work with Tiger or Leopard. -
Help with Photoshop Elements, I'm new to it?
So I'm just fiddling around with Photoshop Elements, and I have a picture of a crocodile that I'm trying to turn blue, so I'm using the Smart Brush and Blue Sky effect to change his skin colour.
Firstly, is there an easier way to change the colour of something that I'm missing?
Secondly, how do I control the Smart Brush precisely? The thing is his body is about the same colour as the water so when the brush gets to a certain point the entire image turns blue.
So how do I select the crocodile but not the water?
Thirdly, the brush. I can draw with the brush, but then I get the "wait" symbol and my changes vanish. How do I stop this?
Thanks for replies, and I'm sorry for my noobishness, I just got Photoshop Elements yesterday.You can make the brush cursor larger & smaller with the bracket keys next to the letter p on the keyboard. This affords more control in making the selection.
Use of the Smart brush tool is probably the easiest way to colorize an object. The tool has a buit-in mask. If you look on the Layers palette (Window>tick layer), the black and white rectangle represents the mask.
Left click on the mask, then access the brush tool (the ordinary brush B) and with a black brush paint over the area where the blue spilled over to the water. If you go too far, paint with a white brush to correct. -
Iphoto Editing with Photoshop Elements 9
I am going into Iphoto, clicking the Edit button and it brings up Photoshop Elements 9. I make changes, they
look OK so I save it. When I get back to IPhoto, it looks like the change has been made. However when I go
back later in the day and click on the updated photo and there is a triangle with an exclamation point in the middle.
This means it can't find the original. They're all located in Iphoto, what is happening? Why does it look like the changes
are make and then I can't find them?I do use a Mac, so I don¹t think versions is an issue. I would rather
pictures edited in PSE, which began life in iPhoto, should always be saved
back to iPhoto, as they were in Elements 8. That is not happening. Neither
do I know where to find pictures that PSE has saved.
From: "Barbara B." <[email protected]>
Reply-To: <[email protected]>
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 15:05:25 -0600
To: Warren Newman <[email protected]>
Subject: Iphoto Editing with Photoshop Elements 9
>> The save dialog sees an original and asks for permission to change it.
If you see the save as dialog you don't have your saving files preference set
correctly. To make versions, you must set it to Save over Original.
However, note that there is a big ol' bug in the mac version that if you even
open that particular preference window (even if you don't change anything
there) PSE will no longer add file extensions when you save. When using PSE as
external editor it doesn't matter so much, but if you ever save to the desktop
you will need to add the file extension manually to the saved file.
> -
Can I link iPhoto with Photoshop Elements Editor?
The new AppStore PSE Editor doesn't seem to link with iPhoto like the full version
If you're referring to iPhoto on your Mac:
Using Photoshop or Photoshop Elements as Your Editor of Choice in iPhoto.
1 - select Photoshop or Photoshop Elememts as your editor of choice in iPhoto's General Preference Section's under the "Edit photo:" menu.
2 - double click on the thumbnail in iPhoto to open it in Photoshop. When you're finished editing click on the Save button. If you immediately get the JPEG Options window make your selection (Baseline standard seems to be the most compatible jpeg format) and click on the OK button. Your done.
3 - however, if you get the navigation window
that indicates that PS wants to save it as a PS formatted file. You'll need to either select JPEG from the menu and save (top image) or click on the desktop in the Navigation window (bottom image) and save it to the desktop for importing as a new photo.
This method will let iPhoto know that the photo has been editied and will update the thumbnail file to reflect the edit..
NOTE: With Photoshop Elements the Saving File preferences should be configured as shown:
I also suggest the Maximize PSD File Compatabilty be set to Always. In PSE’s General preference pane set the Color Picker to Apple as shown:
Note 1: screenshots are from PSE 10
Note: to switch between iPhoto and PS or PSE as the editor of choice Control (right)-click on the thumbnail and select either Edit in iPhoto or Edit in External Editor from the contextual menu. If you use iPhoto to edit more than PSE re-select iPhoto in the iPhoto General preference pane. Then iPhoto will be the default editor and you can use the contextual menu to select PSE for your editor when desired.
Be sure to select the correct item in the Adobe Photoshop Elements folder as the external editor in iPhoto:
OT -
Problem with editing Aperture photos with Photoshop Elements 10
When I try to edit with Photoshop Elements 10, Aperture makes a tiff file, starts Photoshop Elements 10 and get to a screen where I have a choice between "editing" or "managing" files. I select editing but when i finally get the editing screen there is no photo to edit. Process worked fine in Elements 9 and Aperture 3.1. Anybody been able to roundtrip with Aperture 3.2.1 and Photoshop Elements 10?
(Aperture 3 and PSE 10; Lion; using Referenced files in Aperture)
I tried Barbara's recommended method and PSE now opens with the image displayed and accepts edits. However, when I save the adjusted image, what I get in Aperture is a TIFF file of that name but with no edits displayed.
When I go to the directory in which the referenced files are located, the adjusted file exists and I can view it.
So, (at least as I have things configured), when accessing PSE from Aperture I am able to make adjustments and save the adjusted file, but the adjusted file does not display in Aperture.
Is anyone having success with Barbara's method using referenced files?
I hope it is not necessary to do a separate import to get the adjusted file to display in Aperture - which would make PSE totally impractical for use.
Thanks in advance for any help. -
Problem with Photoshop Elements Printing
I have been using Photoshop Elements for a couple of years now and know it pretty well. Today while attempting to print, a strange problem came up: After going through the protocol to make a print, just before the image prints PE does a very fast auto correction that basically ruins all the color correction I have made on the image. How do I disable this function?
Hi and thanks for your reply. I checked the settings under "Print", "More Options", then "Color Management" and it only has "Print Space", none of the three options that you said I should have. Am I looking in the wrong place?
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 11:14:57 -0600
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Problem with Photoshop Elements Printing
Re: Problem with Photoshop Elements Printing
created by 99jon in Photoshop Elements - View the full discussion
Check your color management by clicking More Options in the print dialog There are basically three options:1) Printer Manages Color2) Elements Manages color3) No color Management Make sure everything is consistent e.g. if you choose Elements manages color make sure color management is switched off in the print driver.
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I am trying to chose an upgrade from iPhoto to either lightroom or photoshop elements 10
I am trying to chose an upgrade from iphoto to either lightroom or photoshope elements 10, and would appreciate any comments/advice
Thanks for your time
SandyElements and LIghtroom are different categories of app. Elements is a pretty straight up editor. Lightroom is database driven photo manager with lossless processing. Simply, Lightoom would be the upgrade to iPhoto.
That said, there is no upgrade path from iPhoto to these apps. You will need to export from iPhoto to the Finder - a process that means you will lose something of the work you have done in iPhoto already.
If your reason for upgrading is to add editing power then you can use Elements as an extenral editor to iPhoto:
You can set Photoshop (or any image editor) as an external editor in iPhoto. (Preferences -> General -> Edit Photo: Choose from the Drop Down Menu.) This way, when you double click a pic to edit in iPhoto it will open automatically in Photoshop or your Image Editor, and when you save it it's sent back to iPhoto automatically. This is the only way that edits made in another application will be displayed in iPhoto.
If the Limitation you see in iPhoto is primarily photo managment then have a look at Aperture. Half the price of Lightroom, much better manager, complete with OS integration.
If you're shooting Raw then Lightroom or Aperture are the way to go.
You can set Elements as an external editor in either.
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