Considering getting Institutional version of FCE. Good or bad idea?

Have the capability to get the $99 intitutional version of FCE 4. Someone said you can not upgrade that version in the future. Is there any other down-side with that version? Documentation, etc?
Thanks,
Alfredo

Aside from the inability to upgrade the software package is identical.

Similar Messages

MBPR w/Hard Case = Good or Bad Idea?

I am the happy owner of a new MBPr 15" and like many other owners am keen on protecting my investment. The first thing that came to mind was to outfit it with a hard case and being a detail guy I researched the topic online. Turns out many are saying that a hard case is NOT a good idea for the following two good reasons:
extra weight on the screen wears down the hinges which can lead to a very expensive screen replacement.
overheating/heating issues even with hard cases that have cutouts for vents that can cause permanent damaged to the battery and internal components.
Apple sells the hard cases in their stores and it seems that they are divided on the answer with some "Genius" bar employees saying hard cases are not good and others suggesting them to protect your MacBook Pro. Hard case companies are of course saying that their products are safe to use (the contrary would seriously jeopardize the sale of their product). I have asked Apple and leading case/accessory maker Moshi to comment on this issue and will post their replies in this thread.
My goal is to pool the statements, experiences and opinions on the subject to make it definitely clear once and for all if hard cases are indeed a bad idea to protect your Retina MacBook Pro. Do you have anything to say or share?

The general rule of thumb is that sample-instrument samples should be stored on a separate drive. This is particularly crucial if you're streaming samples from disk (EXS with "virtual memory" on, or DFD (direct from disk) as found in other sample-based plugs).
And you'll want to record audio on a separate drive as well, never on your system drive (except in a pinch) if you can help it.
For a laptop, the ideal system would be to have separate external drives for audio recording and samples. If you're working on a tower/desktop model, these additional drives can be exclusively external drives or a combination of internal and external drives.
My system:
• Lacie 250G (video playback) FW400
• Glyph 250G (sample storage #1) FW400
• OWC 350G (sample storage #2) eSATA (via eSATA PCI-e card)
• Maxtor 500G drive (audio recording/project drive) -- internal
Works very nicely!

Bank is offering to increase my credit limit on 2 credit cards - good or bad idea?

My bank is offering to increase my credit limit on 2 credit cards.I have an excellent credit score, and already have more than enough credit limit available on my credit cards.I know that a higher limit would make for a better credit score when there is some debt on the cards.HOWEVER - What I'd like to know:Is it ever a bad idea to accept a credit limit increase offer from a bank / credit card issuer?Also - Can a too high of a credit limit affect ones ability to get a mortgage or other loans? Thanks!

SeattleGuy1968 wrote:
My bank is offering to increase my credit limit on 2 credit cards.I have an excellent credit score, and already have more than enough credit limit available on my credit cards.I know that a higher limit would make for a better credit score when there is some debt on the cards.HOWEVER - What I'd like to know:Is it ever a bad idea to accept a credit limit increase offer from a bank / credit card issuer?Also - Can a too high of a credit limit affect ones ability to get a mortgage or other loans? Thanks!Depends how much debt we're talking about, 1% is still basically 1% even increasing your aggregate CL massively. Doesn't matter for FICO if your balances aren't there, might matter for Vantage Score if you care about such things. As for a bad idea, no not really unless some future lender figures you're overextended. Personally I don't limit chase just to limit chase, there are certain cards I want a high limit on (travel card, default spend card, and balance carrying cards to be explicit), and others such as my Freedom at 1K I couldn't care less what it was as I only use it for 5% rewards and it'd be rare for me to get a >1K purchase other than maybe Amazon during the holidays. Limits are irrelevant for mortgages and most other loans, the key there is your FICO score and your DTI ratio, and there the minimum payment amount counts, not the potential maximum. FWIW in the current market there's people with 4-5X their income in card limits on this forum, that may not be a fantastic idea for most people, but current market doesn't really matter and as such I'd probably accept them personally. There are some people who chase credit card signup bonuses, and for those, limiting their current amount of available credit might sway an underwriting decision in their direction, and as such they might wish to decline, I just haven't ever done that... yet at least .

Transfer Hard Drive from 20" iMac to 27" iMac - Good or bad idea?

I've just bought my wife a new 27" iMac to replace her 20" iMac. To keep things simple I'd rather just take out the drive in the 20 and put it in the 27. Anyone try this and is there any reason why it wouldn't work since the OS is "universal" for these recent machines?
The reason I don't want to just run with a fresh install (which is what I would prefer to do) is that it's my wifes computer and then she'd have to start new with all her settings etc. While I think the migration asst is a great feature, i've also had other issues doing that that leaves a bit of a mess behind it and some permissions got screwy once.
I may just give it a go and see if it works right away. I'd prefer not to spend lots of time "transferring" files, data, prefs between the old/new machines and just get up and running quickly since her 20" OS install is working great.
Thoughts?

LawrenceT,
Welcome to Apple Discussions.
*Very bad idea if you intend to use the OS that is on the 20" machine in the 27" machine for a number of reasons*. First you will void your 27" machines warranty and if the 20" has any left it's gone too. Next is you will run into problems with the 27" because the 20's OS is set up for that machine which has totally different specifications. What is wiser is to use Migration Assistant and simply move everything over, this is done when you intially turn on the new machine it will prompt you. If you have already set up the 27" then you can still run Migration Assistant. Just open the application and it will walk you through the process. If you have trouble finding MA simply open Spotlight (upper right corner icon that looks like a spyglass) and type in Migration Assistant.
Regards,
Roger

Magnetic iPhone Cases, Good or Bad Idea?

Thinking of purchasing a new iPhone case which has a leather flip cover for the touch screen and has magnetic fasteners.
Dose anyone know if this can affect the iPhone or it's touch screen?
Thanks.
here is the site and it is a dock ’able’ case.
Found it on another thread here.
http://www.senacases.com/Brands/Apple-iPhone-Cases/SENA-DOCKABLE-CASE-FOR-iPHONE

How did you replace them?
Did it come with that option or did you just cut them
out?
Lastly what case are you using?
Thanks for the info, I'll be looking for a velcro
case now.
It's a cheap generic case that I got at a T-Mobile kiosk in the mall. I cut performed a little surgey and removed the 4 small magnets and used some self-stick Velcro from Office Max.
I have a Case-Mate cover on order for protection, (http://www.case-mate.com/phones/apple/Perforated-Leather-iPhone-Case) but I HOPE I can still use my case (or something like it) as a carrier and not have to have it hanging exposed from a belt clip.
Here are a couple of nice looking Velcro pouches that I'm actually considering as a replacement for mine. (The surgery wasn't completely successful, and it WAS a pretty cheap case to start with.)
I think I like the looks of this one best:
http://www.goincase.com/products/detail/leather-folio-es89018/2
But this one's not bad either:
http://dlo.com/Products/HipCase_Prod.tpl?command=showpage&cart=11840120571489758 0
Good luck!

Listener password - good or bad idea?

Hello
We have recently been audited on one of our Oracle databases (10.2.0.4). One of the recommendations is that we apply a password to our Listener.
I’ve looked at some of the Oracle documentation & checked a few references on the web. What I’m picking up is contradictory. One site (http://andrewfraserdba.com/2007/05/24/listener-passwords-always-for-9i-never-for-10g/) explicitly says do not set a password for Listener in Oracle 10 (unless you need to) because it makes the system less secure. This is also my reading of Metalink 260986.1 (“In Oracle 10g and newer versions of the listener, the listener is secure out of the box. There should be no need to set a listener password to prohibit privileged LSNRCTL commands from being executed.”)
On the other hand the Oracle 10g security guide does explicitly say that a password should be applied (“Protect the listener with a password" p. 2-7). Though it doesn’t go into detail on this point.
Does anyone have any comment on this – I prefer not to apply a password as long as the system remains secure mainly because it’s just another thing to manage.
Any advice appreciated.
Chris

That portion of the 10g guide wasn't updated as it should have been.
You could log an SR with Oracle Support. I am sure that they will refer you to the Notes already mentioned.
The 11gR2 guide doesn't have such a statement. The 11gR2 Net Services Administrator's guide even goes on to say that a listener password is deprecated.
Hemant K Chitale

Install to external drive: good or bad idea

I have an iMac that is currently on 10.5.5. However, it was originally a Tiger install. I performed an update install to 10.5.6 and while it runs, I have stability issues that came with the Tiger -> Leopard update that I know I can eliminate by doing a clean install.
Of course, the problem with a clean install is that the total execution time is very lengthy (from install to last app license re-registered) and my workstation is DOA (or nearly so) until completion. And then, there's always the odd detail I forgot about that I have to research to find the answer.
So, why can't or shouldn't I do the following, or how to make it better?
1) Do a clean install to an external drive (I have a 500 GB USB drive I can use) Leave the internal drive intact until step #4.
2) Install the OS, apps and utilities until it matches my current machine.
3) Once ready, back up the internal drive to the external drive as a DMG. (BTW: there will be another time machine BU on another machine on the network -- so there will be redundancy.)
4) Do a secure 7-pass erase of the internal hard disk (this performs hardware-managed low-level sector checks, turning off sectors that error on read/write)
5) Use Carbon Copy Cloner to copy the external data to the internal boot disk
6) Copy my documents from the backup to the new user folder.
7) Viola! Reinstallation complete but I can access my data at nearly any time (latency depends on current task) if I must (except during #4)
Where's the fly in this ointment?
TIA!

However, is there a way of achieving zero-ing out defective sectors, like SpinRite, <http://www.grc.com/sr/spinrite.htm> without my having to remove the hard disk?
AFAIK, SpinRite does not actually "zero out" defective sectors in modern IDE hard drives. To better understand what it does (& in general the link between analog & digital data reading mechanisms in magnetic media), look beyond the brochures & study the “What's Under The Hood” technical note at http://www.grc.com/files/technote.pdf, especially the "Surface Analysis" section beginning on page 9.
SpinRite's makers want you to believe that "weak" sectors are something to be very concerned about, in effect that reputable drive makers design their modern high density drives (ones several generations beyond those using MFM) to regularly rely on these 'defective' sectors to boost capacity, & that only SpinRite's technology will map them out before they cause data loss. This is a dubious idea at best. The techniques used in SpinRite's surface analysis are essentially the same ones modern ATA drives use to monitor for "grown defects" -- except that modern ATA drives contain their own highly capable, purpose-designed proprietary hardware & dedicated operating systems that SpinRite can access only indirectly through clever use of standardized extensions to the ATA command set to do what the drive does anyway.
This is not to say that the product is without merit. It is primarily purposed as a data recovery tool, & for this the extended, low level statistical analysis of the 'raw' analog data from unreliable sectors is a powerful (if not unique to this product) method of data recovery.
There is also some merit to the idea of proactive early detection of unreliable sectors that if used for data storage would eventually require the drive to struggle & perhaps to fail to get 'clean' data from them. (I believe this is what you mean by "zero-ing out defective sectors," just in more technically precise terms.) However, be aware that drives already do this, just with actual data instead of specially designed signals, & in general this is enough to detect sectors that are going bad before the data becomes unrecoverable, at which point the drive moves the data to another sector & maps out the first one to prevent its future use.
In real world terms, these unrecoverable 'hard" errors due to grown defects are very rare in healthy drives, only becoming problematic in drives that are dying, typically because of head crashes, exceeding operating or storage temperature limits, or other traumatic events that affect the magnetic media layer. So something like SpinRite's surface scan is most useful for extending the life of a drive that has already become unreliable or for prescreening drives for gross manufacturing defects. Since the first use makes little economic sense in these days of cheap hard drives & the second use is potentially superfluous because gross defects would likely be quickly detected anyway, users must judge for themselves if using the product for this is worth it.
(The same considerations apply for deciding if or when the frequently seen user advice to 'zero out the drive' as part of preparing it for use accomplishes anything of real worth or not.)
Finally, getting back to the idea of moving the drive to a PC to run SpinRite & why I think it doesn't actually "zero out" defective sectors, I can think of no way it can force the drive to actually map out a sector unless the drive itself determines it should do so. This leaves the alternative of marking the sector in use in the file system's directory structures, which in effect would accomplish the same purpose, but with one important exception: its effectiveness is dependent on the file system remaining in place on the drive. IOW, if a user changed the file system of the volume or changed the partition scheme, the file system metadata marking the sector as in use would be lost, & SpinRite's surface scan would have to be done again after these changes to get it back.
I want to make it clear that I am not certain that this alternative, file system based method of achieving what Spinrite claims it can do is actually how it works, but I can find nothing in the product's documentation that contradicts or conflicts with it, nor am I aware of any standard extension to the ATA command set that would allow SpinRite to directly set the grown defect list. If someone has info that shows I'm wrong, please post it. I have no problem abandoning theories that don't pan out.
Message was edited by: R C-R

Leaving charger plugged in-good or bad idea?

While the MagSafe connector is really nice, it leads me to ask whether it's wise (or safe) to leave the charger plugged in continuously, as it does get warm. I've looked but cannot find any information on power draw when charger is connected vs unconnected to the MacBook.
Does anyone know the recommendation for leaving plugged or unplugging a charger by a knowledgable source who knows how these devices are engineered?
MacBook Mac OS X (10.4.8) 2GB Apple RAM

I now have further information.
After charging, the power adapter is warm to hot.
After running with power connected, the power adapter is warm to hot.
After disconnecting the MagSafe connector (and letting time pass), the power adapter(while still plugged into the wall) is cool to the touch.
I am therefore concluding that there is some active circuitry in the power adapter that senses (or responds to) the MagSafe connector being engaged, and that reduces the power draw and heat deterioration of the power adapter.
As always, an answer from an authoritative source would be nice.
MacBook Mac OS X (10.4.8) 2GB Apple RAM

Keyboard cover, good or bad idea?

Just wondering if having a cover on the keyboard affects the intake of air into the computer. Is the air intake in the keyboard?
Thanks

I have been told not to cover the keyboard due to air intake, so i would say no not a good idea,
I may be wrong thou

Storing sounds/loops on alternate hard drives....good or bad idea? easy?

Is this something one can do during installation?
Would Logic work better or worse if all the sounds and loops were on another drive?
I have plenty of room on my main drive, so it's not about space... it's about what works better. Advice?

The general rule of thumb is that sample-instrument samples should be stored on a separate drive. This is particularly crucial if you're streaming samples from disk (EXS with "virtual memory" on, or DFD (direct from disk) as found in other sample-based plugs).
And you'll want to record audio on a separate drive as well, never on your system drive (except in a pinch) if you can help it.
For a laptop, the ideal system would be to have separate external drives for audio recording and samples. If you're working on a tower/desktop model, these additional drives can be exclusively external drives or a combination of internal and external drives.
My system:
• Lacie 250G (video playback) FW400
• Glyph 250G (sample storage #1) FW400
• OWC 350G (sample storage #2) eSATA (via eSATA PCI-e card)
• Maxtor 500G drive (audio recording/project drive) -- internal
Works very nicely!

Sharing /boot. Good or Bad idea?

Hi all,
If I want to install 2 distributions on one drive, I know I can share the swap partition. What about the /boot partition? My personal view so far, is that sharing a /boot partition is a bad idea, as overwritting can occur.
Any ideas/solutions on this? I understand that the bootloader must be installed only once (duh!) and that it should be configured to contain the 2 entries. My main concern is just how safe sharing /boot is?
Thanks

iphitus wrote:
kcy29581 wrote:
cool, I think that's what I'm gonna do on this system. I know how to make the entries in grub, that's not a problem. But obviously on bootup I can only have 1 bootable partition, so do I have to copy just the relevant kernel images from all distros to Arch's /boot for them to work, or do I also need to copy their coresponding System.map's?
Thanks for the info guys
1 bootable partition, old old old wives tale nowadays.
Your system boots, brings up the MBR, from that you could pass onto a bootloader on any partition or boot linux with a root fs on any partition.
you could have a bootloader on your mbr that passes onto another bootloader on hda1, which passes onto another grub/lilo on hda5 which passes to another one on hda6, etc etc. and any of them can boot a linux with a root partition on any partition.
iphitus
so iphitus, why do we have to make the partition where /boot is on "Active" during installation? Is this just to temporarily be able to read the kernel-image? I'm confused on this still...

I have just bought a new Imac and it will not load my copy of FCE 3.5 as it says "PowerPC applications are no longer supported". So how do I get to use the version of FCE I am used to and have paid for ?

I have just bought a new Imac and it will not load my copy of FCE 3.5 as it says "PowerPC applications are no longer supported". So how do I get to use the version of FCE I am used to and have paid for ?

I do not have any experience with Final Cut, but if you have existing projects that you MUST access; then you are in need of a solution on your new iMac in Mountain Lion!
Unfortunately you got caught up in the minor miracle of Rosetta. Originally licensed by Apple when it migrated from the PowerPC CPU platform that it had used from the mid-1990's until the Intel CPU platform in 2006, Rosetta allowed Mac users to continue to use their library of PPC software transparently in emulation.
However, Apple's license to continue to use this technology expired with new releases of OS X commencing with Lion (and now Mountain Lion). While educational efforts have been made over the last 6 years, the fact is that Rosetta was SO successful that many users were caught unaware UNTIL they upgraded to Lion or Mountain Lion.
Workarounds:
1. Purchase a used Mac that will run Snow Leopard (with the optional Rosetta installed) and continue to run FCE on that Mac (you can actually use Screen Sharing with a "headless" used Snow Leopard Mac Mini and use the 27" screen from your iMac to view and work FCE in the Mac Mini environment);
2. Upgrade to an Intel compatible version of FCE and hope it converts your existing projects to its newer format correctly. There is much debate that the newer version of Final Cut are eliminating many needed features; for example Final Cut Pro X vs. Final Cut Pro 6 -- many users are staying with version 6;
3. Install Snow Leopard (with Rosetta) into Parallels and then install FCE in the Snow Leopard environment:
[click on image to enlarge]
Full Snow Leopard installation instructions here:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1365439
NOTE: STEP ONE of the instructions must currently be completed on a Snow Leopard or Lion Mac and the resulting modified Snow Leopard.cdr install file can then be moved over to your Mountain Lion Mac for completion of the remaining steps.
NOTE 2: Computer games with complex, 3D or fast motion graphics make not work well or at all in virtualization.

Any timecode window plug-ins for older versions of FCE?

Hey - thanks in advance for any help on this.
I use FCE version 1 on a G4 running OSX 2.9. The most commonly recommended Free timecode plugin doesn't seem to work in my version. I install it, but it's not visible in the bins where it's supposed to show up. I tried saving it as a unix and/or unicode and all that other gobbly gook that you're supposed to try if it doesn't install properly. Anyhow, none of that helped. I can only assume it's because of my earlier version of FCE or my OSX.
I need a timecode window visible on my finished project because I'm sending to a closed captioning place. Thanks again.
G4 Mac OS X (10.2.x) Also Have PC

Wow - I had no idea my question would be such a great source of joy for those of you who enjoy making yourselves feel better by putting other people down. I'm glad I could help.
For anyone else who is actually interested in helping and can refrain from insulting me, I'm still eagerly awaiting some friendly, HELPFUL, advice.
And for the rest of you, by the way - I am a professional and as professionals know, you don't have to rely on the latest and greatest technology to get great results (if you're any good, that is). I humbly called myself a struggling artist, but my resume would put you to shame, so please, no more childish remarks.
G4 Mac OS X (10.2.x) Also Have PC

How to get iMovie version 9.09/2009 Mac version 10.7.5 to recognize JVC GR-DX77U camcorder via 9 pin to 4 pin firewire and import video

My question: Is it possible to get iMovie version 9.09/2009 MacBook Pro/ Mac Os X version 10.7.5 to recognize JVC GR-DX77U camcorder via 9 pin to 4 pin firewire and import video?
My camcorder is recognized with 4 pin to 4 pin firewire on laptop with Windows operating system; however, it will not recognize on MacBook Pro with 9pin to 4 pin firewire. JVC website does not offer any updated camcorder driver software for this camcorder and older version driver on CD will not download onto MacBook Pro.

Hi
With the reservation of that I us:
• iMovie 9.0.4
• Mac OS X.6.9
see my notes
NO CAMERA or A/D-box
Cable
• Are You sure that You are using the FireWire Cable - USB-Cable will not work for miniDV tape Cameras
FireWire - Sure not using the accompany USB-Cable but bought a 4-pin to 6-pin (or 9-pin) FW one ?
• Test another FW-Cable very often the problem maker.
Camera
• Test Your Camera on another Mac so that DV-in still works OK
• Toggle in iMovie pref. Play-back via Camera (on <-> off some times)
• Some Cameras has a Menu where You must select DV-out to get it to work
• Camera connected to "charger" (mains adaptor) - not just on battery
• Camera set in Playback mode - NOT Recording mode
Does Your Camera work on another Mac ?
Sorry to say it is to easy to turn the 6-pin end of the FW-cable 180 deg wrong.
This is lethal to the A/D-chip in the Camera = needs an expensive repair.
(Hard to find out - else than import/export to another Mac ceased to work
everything else is OK e.g. recording and playback to TV)
A/D-box
• Is the dip-switches set right ?
• Set to same standard as recorded/editing e.g. NTSC 29.97fps or PAL 25fps
• Try resetting it
Connections
• Daisy Chaining most often doesn’t work (some unique cases - it’s the only way that work (some Canon Cameras ?))
Try to avoid connecting Camera <--> external HD <--> Mac but import directly to the Mac then move
the Movie project to dedicated external hard disk.
• FireWire-port - Can be re-setted by - Turn off Mac and disconnecting Mac from Mains/Power for 20-30 minutes
External device’s (hard disk’s)
• Should be FireWire as USB/USB2 performs badly and so does Airport or Net-work connected ones too.
• MUST BE - Mac OS Extended formatted - UNIX/DOS/FAT32/Mac OS Exchange - DO NOT WORK for video due to 4Gb barrier.
Mac
• Free space on internal (start-up) hard disk ? Please specify the amount of free space.
(Other hard disks don't count)
I go for a minimum of 25Gb free space for 4x3 SD Video - and my guess is 5 times more for 16x9 HD ones
after material is imported and edited. No Camera or A/D-box
• GarageBands fix - Close iMovie, Open GarageBand, Play some notes, Close GB and iMove can now be OK
• Does Your Mac have a FireWire Port
• White MacBooks - don't
• MacBook-Air - don't
if not then a few Mac’s has a PCM-CIA slot and there are FW-Cards that makes a FW-port this way
else - NO SOLUTION
Only option as I get it is either
• Use another Mac to Capture material (to an external USB2 - Mac OS Extended formatted hard disk - or -
• Change to another Camera that can be used with Your Mac (no there are no miniDV tape Cameras that can)
• If Your Mac-Book has a PCM-CIA Card place - then there are FW-port-Cards and then
You can import via this - but I've not seen this on more modern Macs. My PowerBook G4
has one and this FW-Card-port works greatly.
SoftWare
• Delete iMovie pref. file may help sometimes. I rather start a new account, log into this and have a re-try.
• Any strange Plug-ins into QuickTime as Perian etc ? Remove and try again.
• FileVault is off ? (hopefully)
• Screen Saver - OFF
• Energy Saver - OFF
Using WHAT versions ? .
• Mac OS - X.5.4 ?
• QuickTime version ? (This is the heart in both iMovie and FinalCut)
• iMovie’08 (7.1.?), 09 or 11 ?
• iMovie HD 6 (6.0.4/3) ?
Other ways to import Your miniDV tape
• Use another Camera. There where tape play-back stations from SONY
but they costed about 2-4 times a normal miniDV Camera.
• If Your Camera works on another Mac. Make an iMovie movie project here and move it
over to Your Mac via an external hard disk.
(HAS TO BE Mac OS Extended formatted - USB/DOS/FAT32/Mac OS Exchange WILL NOT DO)
(Should be a FireWire one - USB/USB2 performs badly)
from LKN 1935.
Hi Bengt W, I tried it all, but nothing worked. Your answer has been helpful insofar as all the different trials led to the conclusion that there was something wrong with my iMovie software. I therefore threw everything away and reinstalled iMovie from the HD. After that the exportation of DV videos (there has not been any problem with HDV videos) to my Sony camcorders worked properly as it did before. Thank you. LKN 1935
from Karsten.
in addition to Bengt's excellent '9 yards of advice' ..
camera set to 'Play' , not rec/computer/etc.?
camera not on battery, but power-line?
did your Mac 'recognize' this camera before...?
a technical check.
connect camera, on, playback, fw-connected...
click on the Blue Apple, upper left of your screen ..
choose 'About . . / More . .
under Firewire.. what do you read . . ?
More
• FileVault - Secure that it’s turned off
• Network storage - DOESN’T WORK
• Where did You store/capture/import Your project ?
External USB hard disk = Bad Choice / FireWire = Good
If so it has to be Mac OS Extended formatted
----> UNIX/DOS/FAT32/Mac OS Exchange is NOT Working for VIDEO !
mbolander
Thanks for all your suggestions. What I learned is that I had a software problem. I had something called "Nikon Transfer" on my Mac that was recognizing my Canon camcorder as a still camera and was preventing iMovie from working properly. After un-installing Nikon Transfer and doing a reboot, everything worked great.
I never liked the Nikon Transfer software anyway--I guess I'll get a cheap card reader and use that to transfer photos in the future.
No Camera or bad import
• USB hard disk
• Network storage
• File Vault is on
jiggaman15dg wrote
if you have adobe cs3 or 4 and have the adobe bridge on close that
or no firewire will work
see if that helps
DJ1249 wrote
The problem was the external backup hard drive that is connected, you need to disconnect the external drive before the mac can see the video camera.
MaryBoog wrote
Maybe your problems is solved in the meantime, but for all others this might help as I had the same problem, also have the Sony HDR-HC7, but the 7e (Europe, PAL). I found this link today and it works perfectly
//support.sony-europe.com/tutorials/dime/videotransfer/vtransfer.aspx site=odw_en_GB&sec=DVH&m=HDR-HC7E
What I exactly did.- put camera in play mode - open guide - choose connection guide - choose comp./printer (where to transfer movie to) - select connection.- i-link (on my camera) but equal to firewire - OK - choose HDV - choose NO for conversion of i.link.
Settings are shown then (VCR HDV/DV.- HDV and i.link-conv..- OFF), press OK, OK, END.
Switch camera off. Connect firewire cable to camera & Mac. Switch camera on, in play/edit mode.
Open i-movie, choose import from camera. On screen below the camera connection is shown.- DV (HDV). Now you can import, automatically or manually.
This worked perfectly for me. Took me 2 days to find out. Could not find any clear thread explaining what I had to do on the camera and the manual was not clear either.
Yours Bengt W

Where can I get E60 or E50 + how good with Route 6...

I want to get an E60 (or E50 if I can't get the E60)?
Someone told me I can pick one up for about £80 on PAYG.
I've searched: and there aren't many places that sell the phones.
E60: nothing out there... and only 3 for sale on eBay.
E50: available on eBay... but I can't find a retailer that sells them.
The *only* reason why I want to buy: to use with Route 66.
Can someone tell me: how good are either phones with the software?
Thanks.
OM

As keith alluded to if you stay with SL and get a version of Aperture that runs on it you will be locked into that. There will be no more updates for Aperture or the Raw Camera bundle.
So if that version of Aperture supports your camera and you have no plans to change cameras to something that is not supported in that version then you will be fine.
If you think you might be getting a new camera at some point then you might just want to bit the bullet and do the upgrades now.
regards

Considering getting Institutional version of FCE. Good or bad idea?

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