Daisy chaining external hard drives and a video camera from a single firewire 800 port on my imac

I have only a single firewire 800 port on my imac and want to know if I can daisy chain two external hard drives and my video camera, please? If not is there another solution using USB 2?

Are the external HDs self powered or powered by the FW port?  If they are self powered there should not be a problem. If they are port powered they may put a strain on the port's power output but I'n not positive on that. 

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  • How do I store photos on an external hard drive and then delete them from my MacBook hard drive

    I am sure this info is on the support site.  But I can't seem to find it.
    I want to move photos and movies (I'm using iphoto '11, 9.1.3) from my Mac Book hard drive to an external hard drive.
    What are the steps to take to move the photos and movies, and then safely remove them from the MacBook Pro hard drive?
    As an aside, are there any suggestions on external hard drives that work better with Mac (brands, size, Firewire vs USB, etc).
    Nothing sophisticated.  They're family photos, so they are important to me.
    Thanks
    AS

    Moving the iPhoto library is safe and simple - quit iPhoto and drag the iPhoto library intact as a single entity to the external drive - depress the option key and launch iPhoto using the "select library" option to point to the new location on the external drive - fully test it and then trash the old library on the internal drive (test one more time prior to emptying the trash)
    And be sure that the External drive is formatted Mac OS extended (journaled) (iPhoto does not work with drives with other formats) and that it is always available prior to launching iPhoto
    And backup soon and often - having your iPhoto library on an external drive is not a backup and if you are using Time Machine you need to check and be sure that TM is backing up your external drive
    The faster the connection the better,- Firewire or USB II would be the best
    THere are many good ones - I like Other World Computing products or Apple products
    LN

  • Can I export my itunes movies onto an external hard-drive and then remove them from my computer, but still watch them when I plug in my external hard-drive?

    I am running out of space on my macbook. What is taking up the most room is my movies. Can I put them on an external hard-drive and then watch them later after I remove them from my library?

    tothatc wrote:
    Hello,
    I recently purchased a new laptop because my old computer wwent on the fritz.  Luckily I backed up my library on my external hard drive. My question is can a) connect my itouch and ihone to my nex computer and b) run my library strictly from my hard drive and not import everything to my new computer?
    thanks for the hep!!
    On Windows, hold Shift (not alt), launch iTunes and select Choose library... and select the iTunes folder you copied to the external drive.

  • Good Idea, Bad Idea: Daisy-chaining external hard drives

    I'm about to buy a White Macbook (maxing out RAM) which has one Firewire 400 port.
    I currently use a Firebox to record audio and I know that I will need an external hard drive. The consensus is that Firewire is far superior than USB 2.0 due to a stable transfer rate.
    However, I'm wondering which is superior in this case- getting a Firewire 400 external hard drive (7200rpm of course) and daisy-chaining it, or getting a USB 2.0 hard drive?
    I typically only record 2 tracks at a time with my Firebox, but I would prefer it if I could use it to its full capacity and record 6 if I wanted to. I assume that this will have a great effect on it when daisy-chained.
    With my current machine (details listed below), I get messages all the time from Logic Pro telling me I'm overloading it or maxing it out or whatever. In buying a new machine, I strongly desire not to have these problems again, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    I'm under the impression there isn't a laptop being currently produced that has two Firewire 400 slots and is capable of running Logic Pro. Apple's offering has two choices - 1 Firewire 400 slot in the White Macbook for $999, and 1 Firewire 800 slot in the Macbook Pro line, starting at $1999. It is absolutely horrific, I know, but I didn't design the current line.
    Since the biggest advantages between the $1999 model and the $999 model have very little to do with audio editing, I decided against the extra grand for some fancy new toys.
    Advantages of higher-end:
    A) Better graphics card
    B) 0.3 Ghz more processing power
    C) multi-touch trackpad
    D) environmentally friendly
    E) possibility of installing a solid state drive- at 128 GB.
    My current machine was upgraded once, but was quickly smited back to original specs by a power surge (seriously- all I lost were the upgrades). It has since then been a bit of a finicky computer. It freezes now and then, and the kernel errors are frustrating. Plus, it's noisy.
    So yeah- I would totally take you up on the notion of upgrading my current machine first, but it's not really worth the trouble anymore.
    I've also posted before and have been told that pretty much any Mac I buy now will be far superior than my current machine.
    That being said, I suppose I ought to look into USB 2.0 external drives.
    Does anyone have any suggestions? Advice for what to look for? If I could find one that is 9600rpms, will that make a difference or is 7600rpm pretty much the max for the 400mbs transfer speed? Any suggestions for external drives that use both Firewire and USB 2.0? Any other ideas in general?

  • Daisy Chaining External Hard Drives

    How many self-powered, or powered HDs can be daisy chained to the TC's USB port? Will all of the external drives be available on the Mac? I have several HDs I routinely access for files and would like to do it wirelessly. I would also like to be able to backup those drives on the TC or other external.

    There is no specific documentation (that I could find anyway) that state exactly how many devices can be daisy-chained to the Time Capsule. Although I would assume that the USB port on the Time Capsule is no different than the one on your Mac - which would mean up to 127 devices per host controller or USB port. Although I don't have any personal experience connecting more than one (4 port) USB hub, I noticed a reduced connection speed when trying to use more than one drive simultaneously besides the obvious fact that you are already limited by the wireless network speed. This was compared to using the same procedure while having the USB hub directly attached to my iMac.
    The way the external drives show from your Mac is similar to how the Time Capsule internal drive shows. When you select the Time Capsule from the Finder window, it will show all the external drives by name. The external drives, of course, should be formatted appropriately.
    In order to backup these drives, you would need additional software such as Prosoft Backup or similar. You would not be able to accomplish it using Time Machine.
    Attaching an external drive using this method is referred to as network attached storage. Not all software can fully use this connection method to all of it's capabilities.... yet. So it does not function quite the same as attaching the drive directly to your computer. You would lose certain functions, like most backup solutions or being able to boot from the drives. Even some software doesn't recognize the drives as usable storage.

  • Can you file your iTunes movies on an external hard drive and still access them from itunes?

    Can you move your Itunes movies from the hard drive on hte computer (C drive) to an external hard drive in order to free up space on your main hard drive (C drive)?

    Yes.
    I have a 5TB iTunes library stored on a Drobo 5D.
    http://ipod.about.com/od/advanceditunesuse/a/Itunes-External-Hard-Drive.htm
    It works perfectly.

  • Will Aperture backup to a vault with daisy chained external hard drives

    I am moving my Aperture library to a 6TB external drive.  I want to back that up to a disaster drive consisting of 2 g-drives daisy chained, one 2TB and the other 4TB.
    Will Aperture recognize the daisy chained drives as a single drive and backup the Aperture library to these drives as a single vault?

    Caveat: answering your question requires one to make lots of assumptions, any one of which might change the answer. I do not know if Aperture would do so or not but personally I would not recommend it.
    Note that daisy-chaining is simply a method of connecting drives; the drives themselves each remain fully independent. One  needs to build a RAID array to combine independent volumes, and that is usually best done with fairly identical drives rather than with a 4TB and a 2TB.
    I strongly believe that unless one is a true mass-storage expert very large Managed-Originals Libraries should be avoided. IMO far preferable is to instead use Refererenced-Originals Libraries.
    Databases invariably perform better in numerous ways when smaller.
    -Allen

  • Using Aperture with an external Hard Drive and my new camera (Nikon D300s)

    I have an older MacBook pro- basically had option upgrade comp or camera- went with the new Nikon D300s... my pro was maxed out so a friend helped me transfer my library to my external Harddrive (had a tra- after transfer of my library looking at only 721mb left (just a few photos)) but here is the issue- we have it set up when i load my cards that they go right to the external- but two things happen- my raw photos show as 'unsupported format' AND I can't figure out how to edit.... seriously so frustrated I am ready to go with a micro-puker computer and photoshop... this is NUTS! any help... o and I run AP 2 and I ain't dumping any more money in apple until they can show me they are working again... this is eating my profits!

    Well... I am going to say I am not ashamed to admit that I am not 100% sure. I basically gave my computer to my friend who is a computer guru as I was trying to download my first shoot with my new camera and I got a "not enough memory" message- and kinda freaked out.
    I have a WD external HD so it is mac friendly-
    I don't know how he moved it-- I know he said when he set it up to transfer it took close to 14 hours as it is USB (I know I can and should get a firewire port for it) - and to be truthful I don't know if it is referenced or managed. I know that I plug in the external and make sure it shows in on my computer then plug in my card reader and when i plug in my CF card... aperture opens and I set up a new project and it saves to the hard drive... yet is still showing on my aperture lib- so I am confused... and of course my "free" apple care ran out 6 months ago so I can't just call them or drive to denver and have them show me the solution... and I need one as I have a HUGE photo job in like 4 days

  • How to connect external hard drive and DV camera

    I have just bought a macbook pro with only one firewire 400 port. My question is, what is the best way to connect up an external hard drive and a DV camera so I can import video to Final Cut. Should I be plugging the camera directly into the external hard drive's firewire port and conecting the hard drive to mac via USB or connecting DV to mac via Firewire and then mac to hard drive via USB? Or does it make no difference!
    Thanks in advance

    If the drive has two firewire ports, connect the camera to one FW port on the back of the drive and connect the drive to the computer using the other port.
    If the drive does not have two firewire ports, you'll need an Expresscard 34 firewire card to create a second firewire bus. The card goes in the slot on the side of the computer. Hook up either the camera or the drive to it.
    The cards can be found online for a reasonable sum of money.
    Do not use USB.
    Good luck.
    x

  • External Hard drive and dmg files not mounting

    External Hard drive and dmg files suddenly not mounting. Im running Mavericks on 27" iMac. Anyone have a fix or has anyone else suddenly had this problem? There was a Mavericks update a few weeks ago, but things were fine until today. This is weird. Ive checked in disk utility and can see one of my two external HD's, the one that I back up. But not even this will mount. Ive tried repairing HD thinking it was damaged but now see that all my ext hd's suddenly dont mount. Ive tried several mac restarts.

    Solved the problem. My external HD is a WD (My Book Studio). I needed to install updated driver manager and this fixed it:
    http://support.wd.com/product/download.asp?groupid=114&sid=62&lang=en
    If you have a WD external HD goto the above link and search for your model and a list of updates will be shown, Yay!!

  • How to move huge HD video files between external hard drives and defrag ext drive?

    I have huge high definition video files on a 2TB external hard drive (and its clone).  The external hard drive is maxed out.  I would like to move many of the video files to a new 3TB external hard drive (G-drive, and a clone) and leave a sub-group of video files (1+ TB) on the original external hard drive (and its clone).  
    I am copying files from original external drive ("ext drive A") to new external drive ("ext drive B") via Carbon Copy Cloner (selecting iMovie event by event that I want to transfer). Just a note: I do not know how to partition or make bootable drives, I see suggestions with these steps in them.
    My questions:
    1.)  I assume this transfer of files will create extreme fragmentation on drive A.  Should I reformat/re-initialize ext drive A after moving the files I want?  If so, how best to do this?  Do I use "Erase" within Disk Utilities?  Do I need to do anything else before transfering files back onto ext drive A from its clone?
    2.) Do I also need to defrag if I reformat ext drive A? Do I defrag instead of or in addition to reformating?  If so, how to do this? I've read on these forums so many warnings and heard too many stories of this going awry.  Which 3rd party software to use? 
    Thank you in advance for any suggestions, tips, advice.  This whole process makes me SO nervous.

    Here is a very good writeup on de-fragging in the OS environment that I borrowed
    From Klaus1:
    Defragmentation in OS X:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1375  which states:
    You probably won't need to optimize at all if you use Mac OS X. Here's why:
    Hard disk capacity is generally much greater now than a few years ago. With more free space available, the file system doesn't need to fill up every "nook and cranny." Mac OS Extended formatting (HFS Plus) avoids reusing space from deleted files as much as possible, to avoid prematurely filling small areas of recently-freed space.
    Mac OS X 10.2 and later includes delayed allocation for Mac OS X Extended-formatted volumes. This allows a number of small allocations to be combined into a single large allocation in one area of the disk.
    Fragmentation was often caused by continually appending data to existing files, especially with resource forks. With faster hard drives and better caching, as well as the new application packaging format, many applications simply rewrite the entire file each time. Mac OS X 10.3 onwards can also automatically defragment such slow-growing files. This process is sometimes known as "Hot-File-Adaptive-Clustering."
    Aggressive read-ahead and write-behind caching means that minor fragmentation has less effect on perceived system performance.
    Whilst 'defragging' OS X is rarely necessary, Rod Hagen has produced this excellent analysis of the situation which is worth reading:
    Most users, as long as they leave plenty of free space available , and don't work regularly in situations where very large files are written and rewritten, are unlikely to notice the effects of fragmentation on either their files or on the drives free space much.
    As the drive fills the situations becomes progressively more significant, however.
    Some people will tell you that "OSX defrags your files anyway". This is only partly true. It defrags files that are less than 20 MB in size. It doesn't defrag larger files and it doesn't defrag the free space on the drive. In fact the method it uses to defrag the smaller files actually increases the extent of free space fragmentation. Eventually, in fact, once the largest free space fragments are down to less than 20 MB (not uncommon on a drive that has , say only 10% free space left) it begins to give up trying to defrag altogether. Despite this, the system copes very well without defragging as long as you have plenty of room.
    Again, this doesn't matter much when the drive is half empty or better, but it does when it gets fullish, and it does especially when it gets fullish if you are regularly dealing with large files , like video or serious audio stuff.
    If you look through this discussion board you will see quite a few complaints from people who find that their drive gets "slow". Often you will see that say that "still have 10 or 20 gigs free" or the like. On modern large drives by this stage they are usually in fact down to the point where the internal defragmentation routines can no longer operate , where their drives are working like navvies to keep up with finding space for any larger files, together with room for "scratch files", virtual memory, directories etc etc etc. Such users are operating in a zone where they put a lot more stress on their drives as a result, often start complaining of increased "heat", etc etc. Most obviously, though, the computer slows down to a speed not much better than that of molasses. Eventually the directories and other related files may collapse altogether and they find themselves with a next to unrecoverable disk problems.
    By this time, of course, defragging itself has already become just about impossible. The amount of work required to shift the data into contiguous blocks is immense, puts additional stress on the drive, takes forever, etc etc. The extent of fragmentation of free space at this stage can be simply staggering, and any large files you subsequently write are likely to be divided into many , many tens of thousands of fragments scattered across the drive. Not only this, but things like the "extents files", which record where all the bits are located, will begin to grow astronomically as a result, putting even more pressure on your already stressed drive, and increasing the risk of major failures.
    Ultimately this adds up to a situation where you can identify maybe three "phases" of mac life when it comes to the need for defragmentation.
    In the "first phase" (with your drive less than half full), it doesn't matter much at all - probably not enough to even make it worth doing.
    In the "second phase" (between , say 50% free space and 20% free space remaining) it becomes progressively more useful, but , depending on the use you put your computer to you won't see much difference at the higher levels of free space unless you are serious video buff who needs to keep their drives operating as efficiently and fast as possible - chances are they will be using fast external drives over FW800 or eSata to compliment their internal HD anyway.
    At the lower end though (when boot drives get down around the 20% mark on , say, a 250 or 500 Gig drive) I certainly begin to see an impact on performance and stability when working with large image files, mapping software, and the like, especially those which rely on the use of their own "scratch" files, and especially in situations where I am using multiple applications simultaneously, if I haven't defragmented the drive for a while. For me, defragmenting (I use iDefrag too - it is the only third party app I trust for this after seeing people with problems using TechToolPro and Drive Genius for such things) gives a substantial performance boost in this sort of situation and improves operational stability. I usually try to get in first these days and defrag more regularly (about once a month) when the drive is down to 30% free space or lower.
    Between 20% and 10% free space is a bit of a "doubtful region". Most people will still be able to defrag successfully in this sort of area, though the time taken and the risks associated increase as the free space declines. My own advice to people in this sort of area is that they start choosing their new , bigger HD, because they obviously are going to need one very soon, and try to "clear the decks" so that they maintain that 20% free buffer until they do. Defragging regularly (perhaps even once a fortnight) will actually benefit them substantially during this "phase", but maybe doing so will lull them into a false sense of security and keep them from seriously recognising that they need to be moving to a bigger HD!
    Once they are down to that last ten per cent of free space, though, they are treading on glass. Free space fragmentation at least will already be a serious issue on their computers but if they try to defrag with a utility without first making substantially more space available then they may find it runs into problems or is so slow that they give up half way through and do the damage themselves, especially if they are using one of the less "forgiving" utilities!
    In this case I think the best way to proceed is to clone the internal drive to a larger external with SuperDuper, replace the internal drive with a larger one and then clone back to it. No-one down to the last ten percent of their drive really has enough room to move. Defragging it will certainly speed it up, and may even save them from major problems briefly, but we all know that before too long they are going to be in the same situation again. Better to deal with the matter properly and replace the drive with something more akin to their real needs once this point is reached. Heck, big HDs are as cheap as chips these days! It is mad to struggle on with sluggish performance, instability, and the possible risk of losing the lot, in such a situation.

  • I opened my iPhoto library today which was stored on an external hard drive and several of my videos now will not play. The weird thing is that each file shows a duration of 1 second and when I open them it just shows one frame. What the

    I opened my iPhoto library today which was stored on an external hard drive and several of my videos now will not play at all. The weird thing is that each file shows a duration of 1 second and when I open them it just shows one frame. What the !&%$#@ Where did my original video files go?

    Sounds like a good plan, you can never be to safe and having a second External HD is safer than one.
    The only thing that I would do different, is setup the 3T as my TimeMachine Backup and then erase and move my Photos, Videos and perhaps even iTunes Media to the 1T. That way you will have room to backup both the Internal Hard Drive and the 1T External Hard Drive to the 3T using TimeMachine.
    Take your time, study and use the > Time Machine - Frequently Asked Questions if you get stuck or aren't sure how to make the move.
    Also see > iPhoto: How to move the Library folder to a new location
    iMovie ’08: Storing or moving your video library to an external hard disk
    and >  iTunes for Mac: Moving your iTunes Media folder

  • I had a windows laptop, and I save files like photos, documents, videos and other things on an external hard drive, and now I want to move those files to the Mac book Pro, and then move those files again to another external hard drive 1T. My question is:

    I had a windows laptop, and I save files like photos,documents, videos and other things on an external hard drive, and now I want tomove those files to the Mac book Pro, and then move those files again toanother external hard drive 1T. My question is: Is it possible? Doing this willnot affect the files that I had in windows? No information is lost? or how cani do it?

    Connect the external drive to your Mac and drag the files from it to your Mac's internal drive. Then dismount and disconnect the external drive, connect the 1TB external drive, and drag the files from the internal drive onto the external. Nothing will have been deleted from any of the drives up to this point; the files will only have been copied. Verify that the files are readable. There's no reason they shouldn't be; this is just a precaution.
    Now if you wish to delete the files from any of the drives, drag them to the Trash, and Empty the Trash while the drive from which they came is still connected. If you disconnect the drive before emptying the Trash, the files you were trying to remove from it won't be deleted. They'll remain in the Trash and continue to take up space on the drive.
    Note that if your external drives are in NTFS format, you won't be able to write anything to them or delete anything from them, though you will be able to read and copy the files they contain. The NTFS disk format is read-only to the Mac OS, unless you have a third-party NTFS driver installed. To make your drives cross-platform readable and writable, you must reformat them in the FAT32 or ExFAT format.

  • How to connect an external hard drive and monitor a single port thuderbolt

    how to connect an external hard drive and monitor a single port thuderbolt

    Yu connect the HDD to your Mac and then the monitor to the HDD.
    The HDD  should have TWO T-Bird ports on the enclosure.
    Its called daisy chaining and up to five devices can be connected in this fashion.

  • External hard drives and Error Code -36

    Just wanted to know if anyone knows what this error code means. I tried copying a bunch of video files about 600-700 mb to my USB external hard drive, and this error message popped up and said the disk could not be read or written to. I contacted the manufacturer of the hard drive and they said it was not a manufacturing fault, but an issue regarding the operating system.
    Does anyone know why this might be? And also, does anyone know of anyway to get around it?
    Thanks.

    You can try DiskWarrior to repair the directory. If DW can't do it, you'll need to re-format the drive. I'd also suggest a zero out erase.
    Steps for zeroing the drive Disk Utility:
    1. Insert your Mac OS X CD-ROM disc or Restore DVD disc, then restart the computer while holding the C key until you see the spinning gear.
    2. Once started up from CD or DVD, choose Disk Utility from the Installer menu. (In Mac OS X 10.4 or later, you must select your language first.)

    Important: Do not click Continue in the first screen of the Installer. If you do, you must restart from disc to access Disk Utility.
    3. Choose the entire disk (top icon).
    4. Choose erase tab.
    5. Click on "Security Options"
    6. Choose "write zeros".
    7. Erase
    This will take a bit of time because the computer is physically writing zeros to each block.

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