Dead iMac, yellow LED. Motherboard?
Hi. I have a big problem with my iMac 350. When I want to turn my mac on it does not power on. I have changed battegy, resetted PRAM and nothing. This is weird because When I plug the cord I can see LED (near the DIMM slots) turns on and about half second later it turns off then power LED turns on. It has orange light. I can also hear that monitor "works". Is this problem with motherboard?
cavenba...
I very much doubt you have the same problem a Slot Loading iMac 350Mhz model would have concerning an LED in the DIMM memory bay.
Your touching story here reminds me about... The Boy Who Cried Wolf!.
WOLF!
...Ron
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Usually, a flashing LED pattern means bad memory. But not in this case, as your memory was fully working before the problem occurred.
Typical problems that will cause this kind of symptoms, in order of things to try:
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2. Leave it unplugged overnight and see if you can get it to boot first thing in the morning.
3. Follow the Apple troubleshooting guide and test for voltages, to ascertain whether it is a power supply problem.
4. Repetitive buzzing noise and no video suggests it could be the iMac 'flyback transformer' problem. My understanding is that affects only the early (233-500 MHz) versions of the iMacs, but I could be wrong. Search the forum for more details about the flyback transformer problem, which is a monitor problem that I am told is expensive to fix. -
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Hey Richard.....Thanks for the reply to my question about my wife's dead iMac.....
Her iMac had been acting up lately, mostly to do with her Outlook Express freezing up in OS9. I dunno if OS9 was freezing or if the application was failing. Regardless, I would have to quit OS9, restart Outlook which at the same time restarted OS9. All would be fine for a while, a day or two and then the scene would repeat itself. But I think that issue is separate from the iMac being "dead". Often we have power outages in the area, more than we should. I had the iMac plugged into a battery backup, some APS product I think it is. I believe it is only good for less than an hour as we have other devices drawing on it too. Most of our power outages are of short duration, just enough to be aggravating, sometimes having to reset clocks, etc...And a couple times, I would have to reset the time and date on the iMac so this told me that the PRAM battery was below minimum voltage. But the iMac would ALWAYS restart, even with the low battery. But the most recent outage, about one hour duration, did in the iMac, somehow or other. I do believe the battery backup basically fully discharged. So I removed the battery, could not find a new battery locally so I drove to the big city and paid the local Apple service dealer a visit. I got ripped big time price wise, embarrassed to say. So I get home, put the battery in the holder, depressed the CMU reset, the powerbutton illuminated as did a green LED by the memory modules for less than three seconds and then quit. I also heard the HD trying to spin up and a high voltage THUMP which I assume is the CRT trying to ignite. If I unplugged the iMac, removed the battery, plug in the power again and hit the power button, the iMac would repeat the same short on period and then quit. So it did not seem to make any difference if there was a battery in place. I read somewhere to pull the battery, pull the AC cord, hold down the power button to dump any current (?) and let the unit sit for 24hrs. After that length of time, I was supposed to replace the battery, depress the CMU reset, wait ten seconds and then feed it AC. Well, when I pressed the power button, I heard life for maybe five seconds, maybe a second longer, then a beep and then it shut down. I pulled the AC cord, pulled the battery, re-inserted the battery, depressed the CMU reset, waited a few seconds, plugged in the AC cord, depressed the power button and I am back at the under three seconds of "power-up" and then nothing, dead, no beep, nothing. I think maybe it is a waste of time trying to mess with this unit, looking for a newer iMac on eBay, the snowball series with the 17" LCD, might be time better spent. Hate throwing stuff away, that's why I am up to my ears in junk, maybe u know that scenario. The wife likes my 19" ACER LCD screen, hooked up to this old dual 800mhz, though she dislikes the noise and the tower. But we both agree the large LCD screen is much easier on our aging eyes than the old iMac CRT. Anyway, I appreciate your help, always GREAT to correspond with an Apple fan.....John Bauer -
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I ran Disk Warrior. It completed and the system was rebooted. The drive spun up but the screen remained black. The white LED lit up. I rebooted and held the mouse down to eject the DW disk. The drawer wouldn't open but I was able to manually eject the disk.
I rebooted and attempted to reset the PRAM. I only got one chime. I powered down and unplugged the power cord for one minute. Plugged power in and attempted to reset PRAM with no luck.
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Anyone got any ideas?
TIA,
Mike
G4 400, iBook, G5 iMac, Pismo PB, 1G iPod Mac OS X (10.3.9) F87, Crappy Toshiba Laptop, Trek Y66, Ludwig Vistalites, Birth. Drums. Death.
G4 400, iBook, G5 iMac, Pismo PB, 1G iPod Mac OS X (10.3.9) F87, Crappy Toshiba Laptop, Trek Y66, Ludwig Vistalites, Birth. Drums. Death.If you have the disks, I'd try installing a fresh copy of OS X. Or running Apple Hardware Test.
Have you tried booting in verbose mode (cmd-v). You might get more a more specific error that way. -
Solution for blinking yellow LED despite the fact it works
I've seen a bunch of questions/comments about frustrations about having blinking yellow LEDs even when everything seems to work.
Here's how to fix this:
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If you see warnings about IP Addresses, bad disks, missing cables, etc. you probably should fix it.Strangely, when I look at the Utility, all hardware has a Green dot.
But the Extreme is still blinking yellow.
The only problem I am having currently is the connection to the attached HD is dropping occasionally, requiring a reboot. -
Toshiba Lax blinking yellow LED
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- Peter -
I have a dead iMac (mother board), intel duo.I wish to remove the hard drive and made into an external hard drive (hopefully being able to read the contents). Any recommendations as to whom I should go to to do the work?
AASP Locator
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I had a 'dead' iMac repaired and it needed a new HDD and graphics card, the repairer installed OSX 10.6.8 and i now need to install other software but I am being asked for 'User' password so I may do this, I have no idea what this will be. can anybody help please?
<Personal Information Edited by Host>On looking at the secure.log on the iMac with OSX10.6.8, I see these entries at each attempt to scp into the iMac:
Dec 29 11:06:20 molika sshd[7248]: in pam_sm_authenticate(): Failed to determine Kerberos principal name.
Dec 29 11:06:26 molika sshd[7246]: Accepted keyboard-interactive/pam for prowat from 137.110.243.132 port 35571 ssh2
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I visit this forum often enough to see how many people are finding it hard to get their old (but perfectly usable) iMac CTR to work again.
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Use dead iMac Display as monitor?
I have a dead iMac (mobo fried) and was wondering if there is any way I can extract the display panel, and use either a bought or DIY/hacked adapter to use it as a standard monitor.
K Shaffer wrote:
This topic has been well-played here; the replies
given to several inquiries have been researched.
I'm not an expert, only having owned, repaired &
donated to charities, some 140 Macintoshes.
And I've not been heavily into dissecting my four
iMac G4 computers with 17" LCD displays. But
I do know the computer with a failed logicboard
will not support the display; the graphics or video
processor is integrated, and the panel has only
a few of the necessary support circuits with it
above the chrome arm in the panel's case.
There are a few ways of integrating a different
fully self-contained display into the dead iMac
case and perhaps use the existing LCD or an
other LCD and put additional circuitry into the
base of the iMac G4 instead of the dead LB.
And the earlier reply was essentially spot-on.
Other discussions on this topic are most likely
to be found in the proper forum for iMac G4,
Apple - Support - Discussions - iMac G4 flat panel:
http://discussions.apple.com/category.jspa?categoryID=137
Later G5 & Intel-based iMac cases could be
used, empty, to support an entire complete
display of similar size; and the circuits likely
would fit if the case had room enough, empty.
An apology would be in order, if you came in
to a retail establishment and talked to a tech
with a determined to fail attitude like that.
Good luck & happy computing!
{edited to add correct iMac G4 forum link}
My attitude was like that because i know what I am talking about. I now it is not a display. That is what bugged me. he talked to me like I had no idea what I am talking about. he also did not provide an answer like you that was well thought out and seemingly well researched, he said "I guess." I will, and have accepted, that this is not really possible. It was not his answer, it was his attitude towards the question. and just a BTW, I am talking about the intel imac. The white one, not the g4. -
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Hello I need every one's help on this issue. Some of you might know what thisissue is all about, if so would you please get back with me.
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Please help me, PLEASE!!!
Dr. PhilHere is an example:
Mon Jun 9 18:25:50 CDT 2008 - The enclosure has been opened.
Mon Jun 9 18:25:50 CDT 2008 - Service light has been automatically set to 'blink'.
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Mon Jun 9 18:37:02 CDT 2008 - Number of drives change from 2 to 3.
Mon Jun 9 18:39:02 CDT 2008 - Number of drives change from 3 to 2.
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Hello,
Two years ago my Imac died, I brought it to a special (supposed Apple dealer but in reality a fake one) and two days later they asked me to pay $400 to change the motherboard they called dead. I refused and so they charged me $40 to get my comp back (this is a shame but what should I do?!) I left the comp in a corner.
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regardsI would think so. That guy Larry switched the 600 into a 400 but the heat sink was moved on that machine (600) to a different place. It's just screwed into the divider panel so he just moved it.
I don't think there's any difference in the 400 to 450.
Also the speed of the CPU won't have any bearing on the PAV. It's like a power supply. In fact some of them (can't tell you which) were badly soldered (visual inspection). A clean older 400 with light use would be better than a 600 that was abused.
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