Dell u2410 BANDING issues

I use my DELL U2410 as my external monitor and I got some banding issues in some of the color. Especially in Blue and Black. It looks very pixelated.
The driver provided by DELL is only for Windows and I tried to look for somehting online to see if there is a driver out there but couldnt find any.
My display settings are
Colors: Millions
Refresh Rate: 60 Hertz (NTSC) (I cant change to PAL and I am in europe). Could this be it??
Option: Overscan is ticked.
Any idea guys?

Have you tried a new cable?

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Color issue only with finder on a dell U2410 screen

Hello...
I've got a macbookpro 15' with snow leopard. I've just connected a second display screen (DELL U2410) through a mini display to DVI adapter.
On te Dell, when i look a photo in the finder/cover flow, the reds are satured. And when i look the picture on "preview", it looks normal.
I've took a capture of this :
http://www.23h00.net/div/capture.jpg
On the left, the picture with preview, on the right the same picture on finder.
It's Amazing ?
thanks.
cyrille

Try creating a new color profile (and then going back, if creating a new one doesn't solve it). Go to System Preferences > Display > Color

Severe banding issue in shadow areas

Short Version: Having severe banding issues in shadow areas in Lightroom. Need to know how/what to set my color profile to to fix this issue. Lengthier description and images below.
I have read several posts here in the Lightroom forums about others who are experiencing the same type of banding issues, but I haven't seen any definitive answers on how to solve the problem.
I was able to take a couple screenshots of the issue that I am seeing. The image looks very different in Photoshop, Lightroom, Windows Photo Gallery, and also rendered in IE7. Screenshots of the image in Lightroom and the image in Photoshop are posted below at a 100% crop of the affected area. The first image is how it appears in Lightroom and the second image is how it appears in Photoshop.
From what I have read elsewhere the problem has to do with how Lightroom uses color profiles. I do not have much experience with color profiles, so I'd like to get everyone's recommendation on what color profile I should be using, and maybe a link to some information on setting color profiles and how to fix this issue. The image looks so much different in Lightroom than it does elsewhere, that I can't see myself being able to trust Lightroom to process my images.
Some info on my setup. Shoot RAW with Canon Rebel XT. Use a Dell with Pentium D running Windows Vista. Monitor is a Dell 2007FP, and currently I am using the Dell 2007FP color profile as far as I can tell.
Screenshot of image with banding in Lightroom
Screenshot of image as displayed in Photoshop

Don, Bob!
I think it is quite obvious that the Eric's problem is not banding per se (and the related cure by fiddling with black setting), but rather about the mismatch between how the file looks in LR's Develop 100% view and how the same file (or an exported file) looks in Photoshop.
Eric!
I am afraid there is no definite answer to this problem. Indeed there are a number of Windows users that have reported this problem. A very exhaustive and inconclusive thread is this:
http://www.adobeforums.com/cgi-bin/webx?128@@.3bc3578d
The bottom line so far seems to be this:
LR on Windows uses Windows ICM to generate how the image looks on the screen, while PS uses Adobe own engine to generate this. Somehow this set-up appears not to work reliably with LR - the on-screen image in LR 100% develop differs from the same file's appearance in PS or other color managed applications. The mystery here is that other applications that seem to use Windows ICM still manage to show image correctly, but not LR. But anyway, the Windows ICM appears to be the culprit here.
The amount of difference people see depends on the complexity of the monitor profile used. LUT based Version 4.0 profiles will be affected worst - not only shadow detail, but the overall tonality and colors may be off. The best match is achieved with simple matrix based version 2.0 profiles - on my machine the mismatch occurs only in deep shadows were I see banding/splotchiness in LR and only under certain Develop settings.
(Incidentallly, on Windows XP (and older) machines one should ALWAYS use ver 2.0 profiles, as Windows ICM does not support ver 4.0 profiles. I also think that Windows ICM cannot handle LUT based profiles correctly. My own experiments showed that using LUT based monitor profile resulted in mismatch between PS CS2 and other applications (like Canon DPP), not only LR. BTW - as you are using generic monitor profile, I can almost bet that it is a matrix ver 2.0 profile (good thing).)
I am curious about the Vista thing though. I had certain hopes that this image appearance problem in LR would be eliminated on Vista, as it uses the Microsoft's new Windows Color System which incororates an updated ICM that now supports ver 4.0 profiles and reportedly has many bugs of the previous ICM fixed. However, if your report is true and the image mismatch is not due to some other factors, then it seems that Vista does not solve this.

MBPro 2011 15" thinks my Dell U2410 is a TV

I posted this in macrumors.com forums but wanted to see if anyone here had run into this issue yet.
I got a mini displayport to displayport cable from monoprice and hooked it up last night to my 15" 2011 Macbook Pro and my Dell U2410 24" monitor. It immediately looked terrible as if I was hooked up via HDMI @ 1080p. Sure enough I checked the display settings and it listed my monitor as a TV and was set to 1080p. I was able to select 1920x1800 as a resolution but the picture quality did not improve.
I've read other posts elsewhere that this is most likely a software/firmware problem as other users have booted into Win7 on their machines and the display is working fine at native resolution.
Please Apple fix this issue!

From the Apple Support Pages: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3382?viewlocale=en_US#3
11. How is the Apple Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI adapter different from the Apple Mini DisplayPort to DVI adapter?
The Apple Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI adapter works best with displays that operate at dual-link resolutions, which are resolutions above 1920 x 1200. For displays that do not support dual-link DVI resolutions (displays that operate at resolutions of 1920 x 1200 or lower) you should use the Apple Mini DisplayPort to DVI adapter instead.

Desktop looks bad on Dell U2410

It's strange...movies look great, but the desktop UI itself looks fairly grainy. I've messed with the settings but there isn't really much there to change. Any suggestions?
thanks!

The issue you are having is HDMI to HDMI is not sending the correct Color Space signal to the Dell U2410.
Follow the link below for a software fix, and to read further:
http://www.ireckon.net/2013/03/force-rgb-mode-in-mac-os-x-to-fix-the-picture-qua lity-of-an-external-monitor

Dell Inspiron 7537 - Issues

I purchased the Inspiron 7537 (i7 4500U, 8gb RAM, Nvidia GT750M).
Issues:
1. Hiss noise from headphone socket (Same as my Studio 1558, DELL's RnD is a bullshit)
2. Wifi range is low, connectivity is not good (Cant blame dell, cos same issues with other laptop using intel wireless-N 7260 dual band)
https://www.google.co.in/search?q=intel+wireless+n+7260+card+issue&oq=intel+wire&aqs=chrome.0.69i59l2j69i57j0j69i60l2.5570j0j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Question:
Can this processor i7 4500U be upgraded without changing the motherboard?
Is this processor soldered with motherboard??

I have successfully solved the 1st issue of yours: the hissing sound is from the RealTek Audio Driver, not the Hardware itself.
1. Go to Device Manager.
2. Choose Sound, Video and Game Controllers.
3. Right click on Hi Definition Audio Device, choose Update Driver Software -> Browse for Driver on your Computer -> Let me pick from a list...
4. Once in there, chose High Definition Audio Device instead of the RealTek option, then click Next.
5. Follow on screen instruction, you may need to restart.
The problem should be corrected by then. Good luck!

MBP 2011 Does Not Enter Display Sleep Over DVI with Dell U2410

Hi, 15" 2011 MacbookPro (8,2) running 10.7.2 Lion
Using the Apple Mini DisplayPort-to-DVI adapter, the Dell U2410 does not enter Display sleep in Energy Saver mode. Instead, the backlight remains on.
If I manually put the MBP to Sleep, the U2410 successfully enters Display sleep.
When using a MonoPrice Mini DisplayPort-to-DisplayPort cable, the monitor successfully enters Display Sleep. However, the picture signal (no matter what) is dispalyed in YPbPr rather than RGB for some reason. So this thread is in fact 2 problems.
Any ideas / help?

My late 2007 white MacBook (3,1) running 10.6.8 connected via MiniDVI-to-DVI successfully puts the U2410 to sleep.
So I'm thinking this may be an issue with the MDP/Thunderbolt port on the new 2011 MBP's?

Mac mini with Lindy MDP2DP adapter with Dell U2410

Hello all!
I seem to be having a problem with the following setup. I have a Mac mini (Late 2009) connected using a Lindy Mini DP to DP Adapter into a Dell U2410. When I put the Mac mini into sleep mode, most of the time (99% of the time) the machine does not return from sleep mode. When I trigger a wake, the display wakes up briefly but then enters power save mode. The machine looks as if it is on but is unresponsive and the display remains in sleep mode. In addition to this, the machine does the exact same thing when upgrading the graphics drivers in Bootcamp Windows 7.
This behaviour does not occur when the display is connected by DVI via the mini DVI port. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I have had the mini's logic board replaced to no avail. Can dodgy displayport adapters and monitors attached to the machine really cause this kind of problem?

I have a very similar problem and I would love to find a solution. I have a mid 2001 mac mini (unibody) server, and I am driving 2x Dell U2410s (Rev A01's). I love the screens, and the mini is able to drive them well enough.
I am driving one via the included HDMI->DVI adapter, and the other via a cheapie miniDP->HDMI->DVI adapter. I like to have both run via DVI because the user has much more control over color settings within the display while using HDMI. These settings are not present in HDMI mode. I haven't tried dual DP modes.
The problem I have is that when the computer puts the displays to sleep - only the display connected to the HDMI port on the mini enters power save mode. The display that is connected to the mini-DP does not enter power-save mode, and displays a message that there is 'No DVI-D 1 cable.' (or something equivalent).
I am not sure why one of these ports is able to properly enter sleep, and the other is not - but it is very frustrating. i have to physically turn off one of the displays in order to prevent the backlight from being on 24/7. I use the computer as a server for various things, and it is on 24/7, when I'm only at it for a few hours a day.
I have tried changing DVI-D ports around, and using HDMI instead of DVI - and the outcome is the same. This problem must be with how the computer 'tells' the display connected to to the miniDP to sleep. This problem is quite frustrating, but not enough so to abandon either the mini or the dual U2410 setup - just frustrating.
Does anyone know of a way to change the method by which the computer 'tells' the display to sleep? I am certainly no expert in computer language, programming or otherwise.
I have not tested this with my MBPro, as I forgot it in another state at the moment (it's safe - i live half in TX, half in PA). I will report my findings when I test the MBPro, and perhaps come to some sort of conclusion.
Thanks.

2007 MBP LED Banding Issue

Short backstory: My mac was working fine, except when I would open the lid to wake it from sleep it would turn on the display, but not the backlight. Sometimes the backlight would take 5 seconds to turn on, sometimes it would take upwards of a whole minute to turn on. Adjusting the brghtness controls on the keyboard didn't make any difference, so I decided to do some reasearch and followed instructions to reset the PRAM and SMC. The delay has gone away, but now I have a new problem.
My MacBookPro3,1 LCD backlight seems to have light banding issues on the bottom of my screen. It seems almost like if it a row of lights that ever 3rd light or so is out. Is this a software problem of a hardware problem and is it an indication that my screen is about to go out?

Welcome to the Apple Support Communities
That's a display issue. As you have had problems with the display before, it looks like the display is damaged, so take the Mac to an Apple Store or AASP

Banding Issues with GeForce 8800

Hi,
I just installed CS4 Production Premium on a new Mac Pro. The system specs are:
2x 3 GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon
10GB RAM
NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT 512MB
2x 1TB SAS drives
Samsung 30" Syncmaster 305T Plus
OSX 10.5.6 (both OSX and CS4 are up to date)
When I was working in After Effects, I noticed some dramatic banding issues when lighting a scene. I was curious, so I created a gradient and the same banding was visible. I tried creating a gradient in PS, AI and Flash: same results. Consistent across all CS4 products, and the image depth (8bit, 16bit or 32bit) doesn't affect it at all. Applying a blur effect to any image also produces banding.
I tried finding some gradients through Google image search. They look fine in Firefox, but when I open them in Photoshop the banding once again pops up. Same in Preview to some extent, but not as drastic.
Two other guys in my office are running CS4 with the same monitor. We're running identically calibrated color profiles, and working in the same color space. They have no problems. The only difference between their setup and mine is that they're using Macbook Pros.
Things I have tried: turning OpenGL on/off and toggling the individual GPU settings, working in all available color spaces, working with variable DPI, using another monitor, changing the synchronized color space through Bridge, changing the conversion options (dither, engine, etc), changing the color management policies, working in CMYK/RGB/Gray/Lab, changing the pixel aspect ratio, altering the scratch disks and memory allocation, dumping my CS4 preferences and starting over... none of this affects the banding. A 16bit 72DPI image that's a straight black to white gradient consists of nothing more than 12 or so very visible steps. I'm starting to wonder if this is a graphics card issue.
All the work I'm doing is for screen, so printers don't factor into the equation. I'd appreciate any tips or suggestions anyone can offer.

Well, one thing I notice is that attempting to open the linked .png in Photoshop, it has an embedded "SyncMaster" profile.
Opening it in Photoshop CS4, maintaining that profile, I see banding (although very subtle in the second (bottom) example). The top example exhibits a stippled effect at the band edges at 100% scale.
Opening it and converting it to Adobe RGB 1998, I see almost no sign of banding in that bottom example.
Opening it as is in Preview, I see the banding again.
Creating a new radial gradient in Photoshop CS4, 1300 pixels wide, #666666 to #000000, at 100% scale, it is a smooth transition with the barest hint of banding. Also, my #666666 is noticeably lighter than in your example.
Offhand, I'm not sure which factors affect your workflow. But I doubt it is your video card unless it is set for, say 16 bit or 8 bit...
Neil

Dell u2410 with mac book pro - ports in the monitor does not work....

Hi,
I got a DELL u2410 with my mac book pro and the reader or the USB port is not working. How come the laptop doesnt detect this even if the screen works?

Not seen the 2410 - but previous USB devices in the screens required a standard A-B usb cable from the computer to the screen - look for the squarish USB socket on the monitor somewhere, probably tucked up under the lip where all the connectors push in vertically upwards (on previous Dell WS screens)

Sudden banding issue with Mac and new Canon printer, already called tech

Good morning fellow Elementites.
I have been using Photoshop Elements 12 on my MacBook Pro 13 inch, running Maverick OS, printing to HP Photosmart Premium all-in one with no banding issues, ever.
I did want to upgrade my printer and monitor so I purchased the Canon Pixma Pro 100 and a new external LG IPS monitor to view the PSE program.
I also purchased ColorMunki Display to calibrate the monitor. Everything is operational with the recommended settings for color etc.
I printed a .tiff image and a .jpg through the PSE print function. The images that looked perfect on the new monitor and Macbook monitor printed with banding. I called Canon tech support. The man had me perform a few tasks to make sure the printer was operating correctly. We printed test sheets from the printer and they were all as they should be.
He the said he NEVER prints from PSE. He edits in PSE but prints using Canon's EZ share or print or whatever it's called, doesn't matter cause I do NOT LIKE IT AT ALL. Not to mention it is just another step in the work flow. Not to mention that I paid good money for a photo editing program of high quality and I want to use ALL the features.
He said the problem isn't the printer but the printing software instructions TO the printer via the Mac OS printer system, or something like this is what he said. He also had me download some other updates and driver files. He then had me remove the printer from my printer list and then add it back.
He then had me print the .jpg image, (it only prints .jpg which is annoying as heck,) and it came out SO BEAUTIFUL I ALMOST CRIED
I want to print this quality THROUGH PSE. Does anyone have a clue as to what to do to resolve the issue? None of the suggestions in other threads from the past seem appropriate enough.
Eager to hear,
Regards.

I have returned home and have copied down all the settings so that I may post them here before I do any more fiddling. Maybe something glaring will be spotted before I start changing things.
I opened an image in PSE 12.
I chose from the PSE menu at the top of the monitor, FILE >PRINT
A window appears with my photo and boxes and such: 1. Select Printer> CANON PRO 100-SERIES (The other printer isn't concern now).
Select Paper Size and Orientation, no problems with this or any of the other settings in this window.
I then select MORE OPTIONS button at bottom of window.
Another window opens.
There are 3 options listed on the left hand side PRINTING CHOICES which it is automatically on, CUSTOM PRINT SIZE which I haven't needed yet, and COLOR MANAGEMENT.
I select COLOR MANAGEMENT.
COLOR HANDLING is set to PRINTER MANAGES COLOR.
IMAGE SPACE is listed, not in any box, as sRGB IEC61966-2.1
PRINTER PROFILE is listed in a box that is grayed out and not selectable, as CANON IJ COLOR PRINTE...
RENDERING INTENT is set in a selectable box as RELATIVE COLORMETRIC.
(There is a little mssg below all this that reminds me to remember to enable color management in the printer preferences dialog. I was never able to find this action and after doing some research I read that this mssg is a boo boo as the function is automatic in MAC running Maverick, supposedly).
I then click OK and the box goes away.
I then click the PAGE SET UP button.
A window titled PRINT opens.
The Printer selection box says CANON PRO=100 series.
The next box always confuses me because nothing in the list appears to pertain to me when I want to print my photos. It is the Presets box.
I believe FAST PRINTING ON PLAIN PAPER is always showing when I open this window. But I don't want that so I always look to see if there is something I should choose that applies. I don't know what they mean by DEFAULT SETTINGS in this case. LAST USED SETTINGS would be ok if that was what I wanted each time I printed. FAST and FINE on Plain Paper? I have been assuming they mean plain copy paper so I don't choose that. SAVE CURRENT SETTINGS AS PRESET, I don't choose that because I haven't been sure of the settings. And the SHOW PRESETS does me no good becuase you can't change anything in there.
PAPER SIZE, not an issue at the moment.
LAYOUT button is my next stop, by now I am exhausted
I look at COLOR MATCHING which shows CANON COLOR MATCHING as the selected method. (The other choice is COLOR SYNC but I don't know anything about that one and haven't been told to change it.)
PAPER HANDLING & COVER PAGE, N/A at this time.
QUALITY & MEDIUM. I choose my paper type, paper source, print quality which for my photos I select HIGH. I don't touch COLOR OPTIONS because that is scary looking. And BORDER and MARGIN I have no issue with.
I then hit SAVE and the window closes.
Then I select PRINT in the lower right of the window that has my photo in it and from which I acessed all these other things.
Phew. So, can anyone tell me if they see anything wrong here, PLEASE.
Regards,
P.

Banding issues

I bought a MacBook Pro 17" a week ago.
I thought this computer was aimed at professionals who require CPU power and precision in what is displaied.
On my MacBook Pro display I have terrible banding issues. I bought this computer to do my work on, but now it seems I'll have to turn it in and buy a PC that will show me exactly what I need to be seeing.
Have any other seen this? (or is this what people refer to as the grain problem?)

This thread still hasn't really established what this banding looks like or when & where it's visible, (unlike the 'Gradients' thread where a graphic was posted with marks indicating where the banding occurs).
LCDtest sets all display pixels to white, red, green, blue & black & is intended AFAIK to help locate stuck pixels. If you see banding while running this, I'd suggest you have a serious hardware issue & should contact Apple for a remedy. Even if you did something such as choosing a printer profile as your monitor profile, it shouldn't cause banding on a display of a single RGB value.
Very uneven screen illumination could be referred to as 'banding' while running LCDtest, though I'd argue that it wasn't banding as much as a continuous tone gradient (which of course shouldn't be there).
These screens are one step closer than any others
were previously to the Cinema displays, especially
when calibrated with hardware devices.
They are certainly closer in terms of brightness. The screen I have is not as close as any G4 PowerBook I've worked with in terms of viewing angles & evenness of illumination. I hope it's just my screen as I really need a powerful laptop for my work, hopefully I'll get my replacement in January. Until then I remain concerned that Apple have sacrificed viewing angles & even lighting for the sake of brightness...

Banding issues using Rgrad

Hey all I'm having banding issues using rgrad, I changed it to 16 bit and float but the banding is still there and noticable, surely thre's a way to create a gradient fall off map without banding, and if so how?
Rgs,
-Nic

Yes, or even 6 bits, 90% (or more) of the LCD screens on the market are TN (twisted nematic) based, which is a 6 bit -only- technology. They "simulate" an 8 bit display by dithering.
(Apple's pro monitors are all 8 bit LCD's, as are a handful of professional level LCD screens)

Hook IMac pro to second monitor, Dell U2410. Need help on setting from the laptop.

What setting are needed to set up external monitor Dell U2410 monitor. I am make progress but still need to need the setting internal to the Imac Pro.
I am transmitting to the monitor. The screen saver is there. Hit F3 key causes anknowledgement. but open web pages they do not transfer.
I have used the system preferance which acknowledges the presence of the monitor.
Need suggestion if you have them.
Thanks,
Bobby

The external hard drive should mount on your old iMac through USB. USB2 is backwards-compatible, only consequence is that you'll have to be patient with the long wait for your files to copy over the slower USB1 or 1.1.
Another alternative is to directly connect the two Macs via the ethernet cable. Instructions are here:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.4/en/mh914.html
Note that you most likely need a crossover ethernet cable (versus a standard straight-though cable), based on this article:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=42717

Dell u2410 BANDING issues

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