Going to hotel with wired broadband internet service. how do i convert to wifi for iphone ,ipad
Going to hotel with wired broadband internet service in room. What is easiest way to coinvert broadband to wifi for my iphone , Ipad and ipoi ?
Connect the ethernet cable to an Airport Express to provide Wi-Fi for your iDevices.
http://www.apple.com/airport-express/
Similar Messages
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Can i use the airport express in my hotel with wired connection?
I'm going to be traveling quite a bit coming up and staying in hotels with wired internet connections in the room. Can i use the airport express to connect with the hotel's internet connection and then my ipad and/or iphone 4S? I'm new to Apple products so will certainly appreciate any info that may help. Thank you!
You will need to have AirPort Utility installed on the iPad and/or iPhone. It is free on the App Store
App Store - AirPort Utility
Connect the AirPort Express 802.11n to the hotel Ethernet jack using an Ethernet cable
Power up the AirPort Express and wait 40-45 seconds
Tap Settings, then tap Wi-Fi on the iPad
Tap the AirPort Express under the heading of Set up an AirPort Base Station
AirPort Utility will take a moment to to analyze the connection and then you can proceed with the easy guided setup
Once the AirPort Express is configured, you should not have to set it up again at the next hotel. But, you could if you want to. -
Re : Apple TV doesn't connect to a Wi-Fi Broadband Internet Service using Airport Extreme
Hi, using Airport Extreme (Airport Utility version 6.3.2, Internet :DHCP, Router mode : Off (Bridge)) with a Wi-Fi Broadband Internet service. My Desktop (iMac), Macbook,iPhone,iPad join the Airport Extreme Wirelessi network (WPA/WPA2 Personal) easily and Broadband ISP Login-page pops up with username & password options. However, in case of Apple TV (2nd Generation Software : 6.0.2 (6646.81.1)), it connects the Airport Extreme W-Fi network easily but no Broadband ISP Login-page pops up with username & password options. Even using the Ethernet connection of the said Wi-Fi Broadband Internet Service directly to the Apple TV, no internet network connects. Please help.
There is no way you can handle login details with the ATV and there is probably no way you can do it with extreme in router mode either.. If you need to use a login name and password via a html screen then that is impossible in a device without html.
But your newest addition confuses me.
A slight correction in the question : the Broadband Internet Service isn't Wireless, but having Ethernet connection to the Airport Extreme.
So how do your iphones pop up a login page.
easily and Broadband ISP Login-page pops up with username & password options.
The alternative method is to use a computer .. login to your service and use ICS through the computer to the ATV..
See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jJe_BkQMRc
Or any site that shows how to route internet through a computer. -
I can't watch a video with the extension mpg or avi or anyother one using flexplayer for my ipad. Which player i can download to watch the videos that i receive in my email?
Unfortunatelly, something’s not working fine on Flexplayer during the last cupple of months. A lot of updates have been released lately and the problems persist. Since iOS 6 was on the air, the problems became even worst. It’s a shame, but I think it’s time to change the app we are using. The alternative I found is 8Player, it works fine, similar to Flexplayer (but nicer interfase), and the best is that it supports “.flv” (not sure Flexplayer did). You can save your files to your hard disc using iTunes and then transfer them again to your idevice, once you’ve installed 8Player. I hope this helps. Bye bye Flexplayer!!
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Some times the ipad will ask me to install adobe flash player to view some internet vedios. Which version should be apt for my Ipad 4
IOS device do not support Flash
However Skyfire, Photon, iSwifter, Browse2Go and Puffin Web Browser will provide limited Flash capability -
According to Verizon, my family is somehow using 15 to 16 GB of data per month on our unlimited data plan, sometimes more. This is a jump from 4 to 6 GB in the spring of 2012. We have done nothing to justify such a huge surge in data usage per month, but I don't seem to be able to get any satisfactory answer from Verizon as to what's going on. Our time spent on the Internet is no different than it's ever been. Last month, customer service tried to suggest that a virus we had had on one of our computers must have caused the computer to suck up data without our knowledge, but the virus is gone and our data usage just keeps getting worse. To make matters even more painful, such high "usage" causes Verizon to slow our UNLIMITED data service to such a snail's pace that we can't get anything substantial done online. And, for some reason, we now constantly lose our signal. We are connected via USB, which is a poor way to connect, granted. But it worked fine in the spring of this year. In fact, it was faster than anything we had had previously. Go figure? I tried to download Java last week, and the computer indicated it would take 15hrs to download. What a waste!
Apparently, my only option is to switch to MiFi (we are in a rural location lacking DSL) for my household. And this will cost me at least $60 more per month. Why, pray tell, would I want to pay more money to solve a problem that Verizon cannot satisfactorily explain to me if there are no guarantees MiFi will work any better? I cannot get my money back if it fails to improve our situation. And what about the supposed data usage? Am I supposed to believe that my kids' Facebook time combined with our internet surfing eats up 3 to 4 times as much data as it did only a few months ago? I don't think so. Something is not adding up here. Oh...I do have one other option. Home Fusion broadband added to our account for even more money per month.
Bottom line? Spend more money that I don't have for unreliable service, with what I believe to be bogus data usage charges. I think I just need to cancel Internet service, paying the fee for breaking my contract of course, and take my business elsewhere.
Anyone else having these sorts of problems? What have you done about it?Regardless with what carrier your with you might have the same issue, My recommendation would be to get a router that will help you with viewing live traffic and keep a tally of your usage and any device connected to your internet connection. You can go with the peplink balance 20 and be able to look at your traffic by the hour, daily, weekly, monthly or yearly. Look for trends, see what computers or devices are doing what I attached a screen shot so you can see an example of mine. You can purchase the router at 3gstore
http://i45.tinypic.com/6zc674.jpg -
I have tried to get rid of an internet service provider named "Cisco" that keeps blocking me from getting on the internet. I have no idea how "Cisco" is doing this. I have only one internet service provider that is Not "Cisco" . "Cisco" keeps coming up on the screen to sign in with a password which of course I do not know and do not want. I went into Safari preference to change the settings and found 2 that I do not want. I thought I had gotten rid of this "link sys" but keeps returning and shows that it is locked. How do I get rid of these in my Safari preferences without a password to them. I only want the one internet service provider that I have to be there and not the other two. Thank you so much.
That is the login into the router itself. Most routers, in order to set them up the first time or after a reset or power fail, have this login procedure. You connect to the router login and configure the settings for your use.
Is this a new router or has it been recently reset in some way? As was written above if the router was provided by your isp then contact them for the setup procedures.
If the router is yours (or someone else's in your household) you need to look at the manual that came with it or go to manufactures website for instructions on how to set it up.
regards -
Problems with my blackberry internet service
hi, i recently got a pearl 9100, my brother got it for me in canada and sent it down to me.i have not been able to activate my BIS event hough i have taken it to all the people that i thought would be able to fix it.I went to my provider's(zain ng now airtel nigeria) office and apparently everything is registered with them(i got charged for it already) but its just not showing on my phone.i can make calls and do all functions that a regular phone can perform, i just cant activate my blackberry internet services.i dont know what to do anymore, im so crushed.could anybody help me out?Thanks.
ps: the phone isnt locked.i check under advanced options and sim card...everthing there is disabled like its supposed to be.Hi megan_fak,
Welcome to BlackBerry Support Community Forums.
I would suggest verifying with the original carrier of the device that it has been unlocked. If it hasn't, you will need to have them unlock it. If it has been unlocked, it may not have full functionality when used on another network, especially if that provider does not sell that model. You will need to verify that they have the necessary service books.
-FS
Come follow your BlackBerry Technical Team on Twitter! @BlackBerryHelp
Be sure to click Kudos! for those who have helped you.
Click Solution? for posts that have solved your issue(s)! -
What can't I use my iPad in another house with the same internet service as mine
Why can't I use my iPad in another location that has same internet service. Comcast. As me
Presumably, if that house was a wifi network, and you know the wifi networks password so you can connect, you can use it. Does the homeowner have a secured network? Have you asked them for the password to connect?
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I have a MacBook Pro, Early 2011, 2 GHz Intel Core i7 which I udated some days ago with Lion Mountain 10.8.2. Before it worked just perfect. Now, since the update, I loos the internet connection after a wile, (at the beginning every 20 sec, now up to 4 hours) even that the sign of the WiFi network connection shows to be perfectly connected.
My other divices like IPhone, IPad stay connected and work. The rooter is new and cannot be the problem. I tried nearly everything I found on the bloggs, but nothing helped actually. It must be a softwear problem on Lion Mountain, what can I do?
Thanks for any helpI FINALLY SOLVED THIS ISSUE!!!!
New routers have "mixed" modes for your network; this means that it will automatically choose the best option between wireless-B, wireless-G and wireless-N network modes. I used to experience this issue using the 2.4 GHz. mixed mode wireless network.
Thankfully, my router can create 2 networks: a 2.4 GHz. network and a 5 GHz. network.
When I randomly changed this value to "use only wireless-B and wireless-G" trying to fix an issue with a wi-fi expander, the iMac wi-fi issue dissapeared! I tried it with wireless-N only, but it didn't work.
So, finally, I have a 2.4 GHz network with only wireless-B and wireless-G modes which works PERFECT with the iMac, and a 5 GHz. network with a mixed* wireless mode for everything else mode.
*PD: by "mixed" mode it means that the router will automatically choose between B, G and N network modes as it fits better. -
Automatic broadband internet connection---how to do?
how to make a programme which will connect to broadband internet automatically in windows/linux/platform independent?
actually my perpose is to make a program which will connect the internet automatically at 2:00am and disconnect the internet connection if i set the time at 8:00am and if i set any link it will start the download automatically( just like a download manager does).how can i do that what short of API should i use for that?is there any link and gudeline for that?jverd wrote:
jschell wrote:
You do not "connect"/"disconnect" from the internet.Maybe he's got a serial port robot arm controlling the power switch on his cable modem.I could use that to scratch my *ss! Sweet! -
Jabber for iPhone & iPad too long to connect to "Phone Services"
Hello,
Has anybody ever experienced delay issues with Jabber for iPhone and/or iPad to connect to "Phone Services"?
In my case, the service does connect but it can take about 1 minute. Some times it can be faster but some others it can take a while to make the service available.
Regards,You've hit the nail on the head with your last sentence, though to me a month (and then another) to wait for a new line is nothing - I am on my fifth order with BT. They lost the first three, then tried charging me an arm and a leg in excess charges for the fourth. I am trying again, this time with a total package to see if they are a bit more useful when they actually know I'm not going to switch to another provider - fingers crossed.
If they do come back with massive excess charges again though this time I've done my homework. I now know the measurements between my property and the pole as well as the BT price list they use to calculate the charges. I've also worked out a cheaper route than the one they were suggesting - Ofcom say they should offer the cheapest route and the opportunity for the customer to do some of their own work but with me they didn't do either. They also didn't consider that we don't have reliable mobile signal here. They also didn't provide me with any details of how they'd come to that figure and just demanded it. I've had lots of advice from DEFRA, the Department for Business, Innopvation and Skills, Ofcom and ex-Openreach planners and should be able to get a line under the USO. I have a horrible feeling that I've done all this homework now though and they'll just come out and do it without demanding the excess, but if they do I am at least ready this time. -
How can I convert .mov files for use with other apps?
When loading movies taken on a friend's digital camera to my PC, the video files were saved as Quicktime .mov files. I am now unable to pull those files into any other software program (I want to put them onto a CD or DVD and play on external players.) How can I convert .mov files to a .wmv or .avi or mpeg?
Thanks - J
RS720G Windows XPKodak Digital Camera QuickTime MOV Problems
After battling a number of serious problems with the videos taken by my new Kodak Digital Camera, I decided to write up this page so that anyone searching the web would find out the true answers without as much grief!
I’ve also made some other comments about my experience with the camera, in case anyone was considering buying a Kodak camera in the near future.
I bought the camera just before Christmas 2004 in the US. At the time of writing, it is a pretty good model for domestic use—about 5.2 megapixels, costing about US$400 (or AU$600 back here in Australia). From a company as reputable as Kodak, I expected no problems.
The first disappointing thing was that the spring inside the spring-loaded battery clip, inside the camera, came loose within days. It proved impossible to reattach it without completely dismantling the camera, which (despite my engineering qualifications) I was not willing to do. This would usually have been a warranty item, but Kodak’s warranty does not extend to other countries. I’ve since had to jam cardboard in to keep the battery clip engaged, and have taped the battery bay shut to avoid it opening accidentally when taking the camera out of the case. This works fine with the docking station (an extra AU$100!), but it means I can no longer charge the battery without the docking station (since you need to take it out to charge it). I was not impressed!
The camera takes good photos, and I have no complaint with that. The controls and camera menus are well-designed. The large display is excellent.
The EasyShare software is not as easy to use as it looks, has a habit of crashing, has a web update program that is always running in the background of Windows, and transferring images is nowhere as easy or quick as it should be. I’ve now uninstalled it completely, and simply copy the photos directly from the device. (If the camera memory is nearly full, and you just want to transfer the last few photos, then it’s impossible to use the EasyShare software to browse the camera’s photos without it actually downloading the whole lot through the USB cable—and it takes forever! Copying from the device directly doesn’t hit this bug.)
The capability to take video using the camera was a great attraction when I selected it, and, if it worked properly, it would make it quite a handy little camcorder in its own right. With a 512 MB memory card in it, over an hour of video can be recorded at Video-CD quality (320 x 240 24fps video, 8 kHz audio). It’s not full digital video, but it would still be a pretty good feature for a US$400 camera. If it worked.
The first disappointing thing about taking videos is that the optical zoom cannot be adjusted while the camera is recording. It can only be adjusted between video sequences. I don’t know why this restriction was made in the design.
The real problems, however, start when you try to do anything with the video clips captured by the camera. Kodak has chosen to capture the videos in QuickTime format. This is fine—QuickTime is, technically, excellent—except that there is no simple way to convert QuickTime MOV files to AVI or MPEG or VCD. The Kodak software comes with a QuickTime player, so you can see the video clips on the computer you installed the software on—and they look good. Problem is that you can’t just dump those MOV files onto your Video-CD creator (it will usually want AVI or MPEG files).
It takes some time to realise that Kodak have not even bothered to include any software with the camera that can convert these MOV files to a more useful format. This is a serious PR blunder, and anyone bitten by this is unlikely to go near the Kodak brand ever again.
After some web searching, owners of these cameras generally find that the best (only?) freeware solution to convert MOV to AVI is Bink and Smacker’s RADtools program.
RADtools is amazingly powerful for the price (i.e. free), but it hits two fundamental problems with Kodak Digital Camera MOV video files, that are the fault of the Kodak camera, not RADtools. (I know this because every other MOV converter hits the same problems—except one, as you will see below.)
The first problem is that the sound cannot be converted properly. When you convert any Kodak MOV files, there is an “aliasing” of the sound at the upper frequencies. This is a technical description—you get a whispery, tinny, C3PO type of echo to everything. It really destroys the quality of the video clips (especially bad when I am trying to capture priceless memories of my 4- and 7-year-old sons—I don’t want their voices destroyed for all time).
Every conversion program I tried ended up with the same audio problem. I concluded that it is something strange in the way the Kodak cameras store the MOV files.
Strangely enough, I noticed that the QuickTime player didn’t distort the audio like this. The audio sounds just fine through QuickTime. More on this shortly.
The second, more serious problem is that RADtools could not properly convert some of the video clips at all. (This problem only affected less than 10% of the clips I originally filmed, but most of those clips were very short—less than 20 seconds. It seems that the probability of this problem gets worse, the longer the clip.) RADtools would misreport the number of frames in the clip, and would stretch out a small number of frames of video (in slow motion) to match the length of the audio.
Again, I confirmed that this is a property of some of the MOV files stored by the camera. Other conversion tools also had problems with the same MOV clips.
After more angst, I found a number of websites in which frustrated owners of these Kodak cameras have reported the exact same problems.
It was only then that I discovered that QuickTime itself can convert MOV files to AVI. Believe it or not, it’s built into the QuickTime Player that Kodak supplies, or that you can download free from apple.com. The problem is that you can’t use it unless you pay Apple to upgrade to QuickTime Pro.
After realising that this would probably be the only way to get decent audio for these clips, I paid the AU$59 to Apple Australia to get the licence key that enables the extra “Pro” menu options in QuickTime.
Sure enough, you can “Export” any MOV file to a number of formats, including AVI. And guess what? The audio comes out fine!
So, the first piece of advice I can give is: pay Apple the US$29 (or whatever amount it is in your country) to upgrade QuickTime to QuickTime Pro.
From here, however, there are still a few snags to untangle.
The first is that the default settings for Exporting to AVI don’t give a great result. It defaults to the Cinepak codec, medium quality. This looks terrible compared to the original QuickTime movie. Even on maximum quality, that codec just doesn’t give good results.
I finally found that the best option is to use the Intel Indeo Video 4.4 codec, set on maximum quality. This creates AVI files that are 10 to 20 times larger than the original MOV files, but the quality is there. If (like me) you only want the AVI files so you can dump them into your Video-CD program, then you want to keep the quality as high as possible in this first step. The extra hard disk space is not really a concern. When your VCD program converts the AVI files to MPEG, it will compress them to the usual VCD size.
Now for the biggest snag: those problem MOV files are still a problem, even for QuickTime Pro. Unbelievably, these Kodak cameras are spitting out MOV files which have some sort of technical flaw in their data specifications. QuickTime is able to play them back fine—and that seems to be all that the Kodak engineers really checked. However, if QuickTime Pro tries to export them, then when the progress bar gets to the end, it never finishes. It just keeps going. If you check the output folder with Explorer, and keep hitting F5 to update the file listing, you can see the file getting bigger, and bigger, and bigger. It never stops.
That this happens even for QuickTime itself (the native format for these files) confirms that the problem is with the software built into these Kodak cameras. It would be nice it they issued a patch or a fix. I couldn’t find one.
Fortunately, there is a “workaround” for this problem. I found it when trolling the net trying to find solutions to all these problems. The workaround is to use QuickTime Pro’s cut and paste facility. Open the problem MOV file, then press Ctrl-A (the standard key combination for “select all”—in this case it selects the entire film clip, as you can see by the grey selection of frames at the bottom of the player). Then hit Ctrl-C (i.e. copy, which in this case copies all the frames, but not the incorrect data structure in the original MOV file). Now hit Ctrl-N (i.e. new, in this case a new MOV file or player). In this new player, press Ctrl-V (i.e. paste). Now you have a new version of the MOV file with the bad data structure exorcised. You can save this under a new name, but make sure you specify “Make movie self-contained”—otherwise, it will simply be a link to the original (bad) MOV file, which you are probably going to delete once you save the exorcised version. (You also cannot overwrite the original file, because it needs to access that to make the “self-contained” movie. You need to give it a slightly different name, save it “self-contained”, then delete the original and rename the new copy back to what you wanted it to be. A pain, I agree, but at least the **** thing works—finally!)
The exorcised MOV file can now be used to Export to AVI format. (I also keep all the MOV files on a separate CD, in case I want to reconvert them to a different format in the future. I figure it’s better keeping the exorcised ones than the haunted ones.)
So I hope that all this answers a few of your questions. No, you weren’t being incredibly stupid. -
I am going to buy a MacBook Pro 15-inch online. How do I purchase Microsoft Office For Mac to load onto my new MacBook? Can I order this through the Apple website or do I have to go into an Apple Store? Thank You
Jack, you can order online from Apple. Their price right now for MS Office 2011 Mac Home/Student Edition is $150 US. They might put it on your computer but it is very easy to do it yourself.
You could also order rthe same MS Office for Mac online from another retailer. Ex.: OWC (http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/software/)
& they have discounted right now for $110 US. I've gotten may products from them and they are easy to deal with & have good prices/products.
There are other retailers, of course, and sometimes I find good prices at the others as well.
Enjoy the new MacBook. And have a good New Year. -
Why the **** can I only sync my phone with one itunes program. Perhaps I have two computers with different music on both of them that i'd like to add to my iphone,ipad,itouch,ipod. Fix this please thanks.
Becasue that is the way the ****** iphone is designed.
You can only sync with one ******computer.
There is nothing to ****** fix.
It is the ****** design of the iphone. It is ****** by design.
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