Hardware config and componenets : raid, gpu and monitor choices
Right,
I've almost finalised my decisions about a new build I'm putting together to use cs4 design premium prgrammes (mainly photoshop, InDesign, Illustrator, fireworks and flash) and in the near future 3d Max and possibly a video editing programme.
There are some things I'm stuck with for now; Motherboard and cpu, and some things I have a few questions about: raid 0, gpu and monitor choices. I appreciate this is a long post - but any feed-back would be appreciated.
MOTHERBOARD AND CPU
The motherboard and cpu were originally intended for a gaming pc:
MSI DKA790GX Platinum Motherboard
AMD phenom x4 9950 black edition
This motherboard and cpu are far better than any other I've had at my disposal when it has come to working with adobe programmes (CS2). So although
- I will only be able to go up to 8gb of ddr2 800mhtz ram (apparently the motherbioard becomes unstable with 8 gb 1066 ddr2)
- I do not have a motherboard that takes 2 6+ core cpus
From what I've seen of reviews on these components, at the moment, I'm quite happy with what I've got for both cs4 and 3d max use.
Besides, in the last few weeks I've learnt there are other things I can do to get maximum leverage out of a build comprising these components.
HDD CHOICE FOR RAID 0
I've read Harms generic guideline for disk setup here
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/662972?start=0&tstart=0
I gather that this guide is principally for optimum running when video editing. But I also gather that the performance enhancement of raid 0 compared to no raid will be beneficial for both photoshop and 3d Max. 4 discs with 2 in raid is what I was thinking of going for.
Discs I have or am thinking of buying:
1. I have 1 160gb WD ide 8mb cache hdd WD1600AAJB
2. I have 1 500gb WD Caviar blue SATA 16 mb cache hdd (WD500AAKS)
3. For the raid I'm thinking of buying 2x 1tb Samsung SpinPoint F3 7200rpm 32mb cache drives for £45.74 each
These are obviously highly rated as raid drives in these forums and I can't find anything smallar than a 1tb version of these drives at the shop I plan to order from – or is 1tb all they come in?
1st disc for OS and programmes
When going to the trouble of setting up raid is it acceptable to use an ide disc for the OS and programmes? I ask this because the 160gb WD hdd mentioned above has hardly been used....
If the ide drive is not approved of I'm thinking of buying either
1. A 500gb Seagate Barcude 7200.12 16mb cache sata 2 drive for £29.73 or
2. A 500gb Hitachi Deskstar 7K1000.C 7200rpm 16mb cache driver for £29.30 or
3. A 160gb samsung SpinPoint 7200rpm 8mb cache drive for 24.96
I know the Seagate and Hitachi are huge drives for the principal purpose of storing the OS and programmes but they both have 16mb cache and are only a few pounds more than the 160gb Samsung drive with only 8mb cache
Or
considering I'm going for F3 spinpoint for the raid discs would it be better, in terms of compatibility between the drives, to go for a spinpoint 8mb cache for the OS and programme discs
What should be my biggest concern here – compatibility between the discs or a higher cache on the disc - or considering they are all the same speed (7200rpm) does the cache not matter that much?
2nd disc for page file, media cache
I was thinking of dedicating the 500gb WD I have for these purposes. I've read in this forum that the WD drives are not that reliable when it comes to raid arrays – apart from that they seem to have a good reputation.
3-4th discs for raid 0
My mind is pretty much made up on the Samsung SpinPoint F3's
Partitions
Because there are a huge number of gb's in this set up I'm thinking of partioning the 1st and second discs so that in addition to using them for 'the operating system and programme files' and 'page file and media cache' their second partitions can be used to backup the data stored in the raid array.
Is it good practice to partition dedicated discs in this way?
THE GPU
Due to it's reletive cheapness, wide spread use and endorsement amongst gamers and workstation users alike, first of all I was swayed towards the 480GTX and using quadro driver hacks. But I couldn't get the number of ''risk factor' forum threads concerning making a GTX think its a quadro – particularly when it comes to using 3d max - out of my head. Even without the hacks there are a high percentage of grissly stories out there concerning the 480s and 3d max compared to workstation cards and 3d max. So I've decided that because I have the budget to get a workstation card (an ATI V7800) for 'just' £134 more than a GTX480 (£424 compared to £293) then for the peace of mind of more stable drivers, when getting to grips with a complex new programme, I might as well go for it and pay that bit extra.
I've had a good look at both the ATI V7800 and the PNY QUADRO 4000.... the differences between stream versus cuda and how these cards perform when rendering 3d programmes..... I started vearing towards the V7800 when I realised that when it came to rendering it was being compared very favourably with the quadro FX5800 let a lone the much cheaper quadro 4000.... Plus with the disc set up I am now thinking of I can buy the V7800 plus all the discs talked about above for £10 less than I can find the quadro 4000 for alone.
The only thing I'm concerned about is the V7800's compatibility with the cs4 design premium suite.
This page indicates that although some of these cards were released after cs4 they are supported by it.
http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/405/kb405445.html
Would it be wrong of me to suppose that, because the new V7800 is a work station graphics card, it will be supported by cs4?
What difference will it make if it isn't supported?
Having said that the quadro 4000 isn't listed as supported on this page either....
What would be your choice between the quadro 4000 and ATI V7800?
THE MONITOR
The monitor I'm looking at the 22” Dell 2209WA eIPS..... Although older (2008 vs 2009) the slightly larger 24”Dell 2408WFP has also caught my eye due to the higher contrast ratio (1300:1 vs 1000:1) and that this increased contrast ratio means it is capable of displaying 110 percent of the NTSC gamut as opposed to 86% with the the 2209WA.
I'm familiar with monitor on the 2006 dell XPS M1710 laptop and am very impressed with colour fidelity. The 2408WFP does require more calibration tweaking by the sound of it....
Anyone any experince of either of these monitors?
I'm off to the gym for an hour or so - I'll be back in a couple of hours
My strong advice: Don't skimp on price on hard drives.
Get high MTBF RAID edition drives (e.g., Western Digital RE-series drives).
http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=30
In my main workstation I currently have two 1 TB WD RE3 drives that have been spinning in a RAID 0 configuration 24/7 with ZERO problems for a year now.
I figure one wants to minimize the chance of losing one's data down the road. How much would it cost you in time, effort, and lost work to recover your data from a backup if you should lose your hard drive?
Top-end drives can fail, sure, but the MTBF numbers say that the chances are much smaller than with "cheap" drives. And the RAID edition drives have additional features, such as vibration reduction, that differentiates them from lesser drives.
Ask yourself, why would one drive be cheaper than another? Poorer quality materials? Not as much quality control?
Another bit of info: Search this forum for "quadro". It seems that these expensive video cards may be seeing more trouble with Photoshop than you might expect. Some of the less expensive cards, that may have had more OpenGL testing (e.g., to support gaming) might be better choices for use with Photoshop. Personally I prefer ATI.
-Noel
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I did some more digging, it appears to be a backlight problem only. I can see the screen very dimly if I use a bright flashlight in a very dark room. It also seems to run ok if the brightness is turned down a LOT.
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Lenovo Yoga 2 13, Kali Linux 1.0.7, Ubuntu 14.04, Windows 8.1 install, config, and wifi fix.
Lenovo Yoga 2 13, Kali Linux 1.0.7, Ubuntu 14.04, Windows 8.1 install, config, and wifi fix.
I wanted to share an experience with everyone I hope will help others avoid what I have gone through the past 3 days. I bought a Yoga 11s that I loved but had some issues with the wireless, Lenovo being awesome replaced it with a Yoga 2 13. I love this laptop but ran into some issues with Linux install/wireless, which I wanted to show how to resolve in one place. Hopefully this will help someone else get through this quicker
I am going to try and write this for someone with little Linux experience, if I miss the mark please let me know and I will clarify the best I can.
For work I need Windows 8.1 and Kali Linux, while for home I prefer Ubuntu.
My Yoga 2 13:
I5 1.6 ghz
8 GB ram
256 GB SSD
ORANGE!
My requirements:
I need Windows
I need Kali Linux (livecd, even with persistent mode was not an option as it would not save the wireless fix or system updates) – I would also like this on a USB drive and not the internal SSD
I would like Ubuntu
Needed to do this:
1. 2 USB thumb drives (at least 8gb in size each) I used 2 Leef Supra 32GB drives. They are my favorite right now and are only about $27 at amazon.
2. Phone that can USB Tether or a USB Ethernet card (External USB wireless will show as "Hardware Locked"). Again you can pick one up for sub $10 if you need the USB Ethernet route. I used my Galaxy S5, you will need to download 200-300 mb of items through this so make sure you have the data if you go that route.
3. You may be able to get a USB wifi card to work if you do the following after boot. This only worked once for me.
a.Type ‘sudo rmmod iwlmvm’
b.Type ‘sudo rmmod iwlwifi’
4. ISOs of Ubuntu and Kali Linux (I used Ubuntu 14.04 and Kali Linux 1.0.7)
5. Software to unzip the ISOs. I recommend 7-ZIP and will be referencing this in this guide.
6. I will include the EFI boot files and the WiFi fix files if I can attach. Otherwise I will provide a link to them.
Link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/puxnnoft3gn2b6l/WiFiFix.zip
Recommended (these are just in case you corrupt something making your system not see any OS
1. I would call Lenovo beforehand and get a set of recover disks (this will take 2-3 days)
2. In the meantime a USB Windows 8.1 or 8 ISO (the repair feature may save you)
*Note: At many points in this guide I detail steps and commands. Please double check that you understand the step before proceeding. There are multiple points where a mistyped command or clicking the wrong option will cause your entire system to fail and you will need to reformat the entire drive and start over. This also will make One Touch recovery not work. Proceed with caution.*
I did not need to disable ‘secure boot’ to do this, but keep in mind that you may need to.
Steps:
First let’s go through the installs, and then we will go through grub config and wireless fix
1. In Windows scroll to computer and right click, select manage.
2. Go to “Disk Management”
3. Select the main HDD (notice Lenovo puts a stupid number of partitions on here)
a. I deleted the D: drive on here, if you do this make sure to copy the drives over to your main C: drive. You will want to run each of the installers and repair the drivers after.
4. I used the space from the D: drive and pulled a little more creating a 50 GB partition for Ubuntu and my swap file
a. You can also add more space by right clicking your C drive and selecting shrink
b. Do not format the partitioned data as this will make identifying it later much easier.
5. Open a command line
a. Swipe from the right of the screen and select search
b. Type ‘cmd’
c. right click and select ‘run as admin’
6. For Ubuntu: Type ‘diskpart’ into the command line
a. type ‘list disk’
i. You should see 2-3 disks depending on if you have one or both usb drives in the laptop at the time. I would suggest only doing 1 at a time so you don’t lose track.
b. type ‘select disk $’ (Replace the $ with the number of the drive)
c. ***** Before proceeding make sure you have the correct drive selected or you can ruin your Windows install and Lenovo one touch recovery will not fix it since we have changed the partitions *****
d. type ‘clean’
e. type ‘create partition primary’
f. type ‘active’
g. type ‘format fs=fat32 quick’
h. type ‘assign’
i. type ‘exit’
6. For Kali Linux: Type ‘diskpart’ into the command line
a. type ‘list disk’
i. You should see 2-3 disks depending on if you have one or both usb drives in the laptop at the time. I would suggest only doing 1 at a time so you don’t lose track.
b. type ‘select disk $’ (Replace the $ with the number of the drive)
c. ***** Before proceeding make sure you have the correct drive selected or you can ruin your Windows install and Lenovo one touch recovery will not fix it since we have changed the partitions *****
d. type ‘clean’
e. type ‘create partition primary size= 3272
f. type ‘active’
g. type ‘format fs=fat32 quick’
h. type ‘assign’
i. type ‘exit’
j. By doing this we can maintain a portion of this drive as the install CD and still have linux install/ liveCD if we need to run it on another machine.
7. At this point the drive is ready to have the contents of the ISO copied over.
8. Right click the ISO and select 7-zip then ‘zip to /’ This should unzip the ISO to the location of the ISO into a folder named exactly the same as the ISO.
9. Once this is done for Ubuntu ISO it is done
10. Kali requires a little bit more to be ready
a. Kali will need some files added for EFI boot. --$--
i. Thanks to: https://forums.kali.org/showthread.php?271-How-to-EFI-install-Kali-Linux
ii. EFI files are located within the wifi fix folder https://www.dropbox.com/s/puxnnoft3gn2b6l/WiFiFix.zip
11. Now let’s start with Ubuntu
Ubuntu install
1. Place USB drive into the laptop and press the “Lenovo boot” button next to the power button
2. Select ‘Boot Menu’
3. Select ‘EFI USB Device (Name of drive)’ Mine stated Leef Supra
4. Select ‘install Ubuntu’
5. Go through the Ubuntu install until you get to select the install drive
6. Once you get to the install portion it will ask you to select from one of 4 options. Select ‘Manually select partition’
7. Select the “Free Space” where we opened up some of the drive
8. You will need to create 2 partitions, I usually create the swap partition at the end of the drive
a. First I create the swap
i. Set at the end of the drive
ii. Set size to 1024 mb
iii. Set type to ‘swap’
b. Second create the ext 4 partition
i. Set to beginning of drive
ii. Set to remainder of the space
iii. Set type to ext4
iv. Set mount point to /
9. Finish the install and boot into Ubuntu
10. You will notice that your wireless is ‘disabled by hardware’ This is fine for the time being and we will worry about this after the kali install. If we fix it now for some reason after installing kali we get the error again and would just need to fix it again.
Kali Linux install
1. Place USB drive into the laptop and press the “Lenovo boot” button next to the power button
2. Select ‘Boot Menu’
3. Select ‘EFI USB Device (Name of drive)’ Mine stated Leef Supra
4. From the grub menu select ‘install kali linux’ both graphical and text work. I much prefer text install
5. You will get a few errors through the install but that is fine
6. The first we see is about network hardware and ‘load missing firmware from removable media?’ – Select ‘no’
7. Then select no ethernet card
8. It will have you name your machine then it will ask you for the root password
a. If you want to just use root *not recommended* place the password here
b. If you wish to use a non-root account then leave these blank and it will ask you for a name, username, and password of the new machine *Very Recommended* - this will also add this user to the sudoers file
9. It will then ask you to ‘partition disks’
10. Select manual
11. Now here is where it can get a little confusing so read twice click once
12. Select the USB drive from this list
13. Mine shows up under (sdb) – Leef Supra
a. It could be sdc, sdd, sde, etc… depending on how many drives you have plugged in.
14. You should see one primary drive that is 3gb or so that is formatted as FAT32. – DO NOT TOUCH THIS PARTITION!
15. You should see the remainder of this drive as ‘FREE SPACE’ select that
16. Create a partition at the end at size 1024mb and swap
17. Then create another one for the remainder of the drive and set it to ext4 with mountpoint of /
18. Continue through the install after you should see an error warning you that ‘you may not be able to boot’ that is fine, select continue
19. Then select from the menu of all the options ‘continue without bootloader’
20. It should finish up then reboot on its own.First setup/boot/fix grub
1. You should be able to boot up into GRUB2 menu now.
2. You may not see kali linux in this menu (make sure you have your towel and don’t panic!)
3. Boot into Ubuntu
4. Once you log in you should see that you still cannot use wireless due to being locked by hardware
5. This is expected
6. Let’s fix grub then we will come back to fixing wireless
7. Plug in your device to connect to the internet (USB Tethering or USB Ethernet)
8. Once you verify that you now have an internet connection run the following from terminal
a. ‘sudo add-apt-repository ppa:danielrichter2007/grub-customizer’
b. ‘sudo apt-get update’
c. ‘sudo apt-get install grub-customizer’
9. You can also edit the grub.cfg manually if you know what you are doing… I did not
10. Open grub customizer
11. It should auto populate and you should see ‘debian (kali linux)’ somewhere in the list
12. It should be mounted to /dev/sdb2 or /dev/sdc2 depending on how many devices you have
13. At this point go ahead and save
14. Reboot and test that you can get into each OS
15. This is where my inexperience got me. I spent 2 of my days so I am including this error: If when you boot into Kali you get an error somewhere that says ‘/bin/sh: can’t access tty: job control turned off’ look above it for an error that looks similar to ‘ALERT! /dev/sdc2 does not exist. Dropping to a shell!!’
a. That error is due to the mount point being incorrect in grub, reboot and from within grub highlight the kali boot. Press ‘e’ then towards the bottom you should see ‘root=/dev/sdc2’ change this to ‘root=/dev/sdb2’ again the number doesn’t matter just make sure it stays the same.
b. Press F10
c. If this boots fine then you will need to go back and fix the grub.cfg or load into Ubuntu and open grub customizer again, it should fix this
16. Now you have 3 working OS on the machine with one being on a USB! Congrats!
17. You can remove the USB with no worry of screwing up your install, but you will not be able to boot into Kali Linux until you replace it. I would suggest only removing it and replacing it while the machine is powered off, but that’s just me.
Fix Wireless
Now is the time to do what probably ¾ of you came here for. FIX THE DANG WIRELESS. This is a huge problem from Lenovo’s side that I hope they realize how important Linux is and will fix. I won’t hold my breath though.
Log into Ubuntu : This is well documented in the following forum post on page 3 by user Haohe:
http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=2215044&page=3
His has you download quite a large file, mine should be much smaller.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/puxnnoft3gn2b6l/WiFiFix.zip
1. Download the attached package with the fix.
2. Connect your USB internet device (tether or ethernet)
3. Place the packages somewhere easy to access, in this example I will place them under ~/Desktop/WiFiFix
4. Type ‘cd ~/Desktop/WiFiFix/’
5. Now we need to prep the tools we need.
6. Type ‘sudo apt-get update’ – we did this before, but you know, just in case
7. Type ‘sudo apt-get install linux-headers-`uname –r`’ Note around uname-r they are the ` symbol not the ‘ this is located just above the tab on the same key as ~.
8. Type ‘make’
9. Type ‘sudo cp /lib/modules/3.13.0-24-generic/kernel/drivers/platform/x86/ideapad-laptop.ko ~/ideapad-laptop.ko.backup’
10. Type ‘sudo cp ~/Desktop/WiFiFix/ideapad-laptop.ko /lib/modules/3.13.0-24-generic/kernel/drivers/platform/x86/’
11. Type ‘sudo modprobe -r ideapad-laptop’
12. Type ‘sudo modprobe ideapad-laptop’
13. Type ‘sudo rfkill unblock all’
14. Type ‘sudo modprobe -r ideapad-laptop’
15. Type ‘sudo mv ~/ideapad-laptop.ko.backup /lib/modules/3.13.0-24-generic/kernel/drivers/platform/x86/ideapad-laptop.ko’
16. Next we need to blacklist the ideapad module
17. Type ‘sudo echo 'blacklist ideapad-laptop' > /etc/modprobe.d/blacklist-ideapad.conf’
a. The first time I tried this it wouldn’t work. So I did the following
b. ‘sudo touch /etc/modprobe.d/blacklist-ideapad.conf’
c. ‘sudo vim /etc/modprobe.d/blacklist-ideapad.conf’
d. Enter blacklist ideapad-laptop
e. Exit and save
18. Reboot your Yoga 2 13
19. Boot into kali and see if you have wireless, if you do then you are done. If not we will need to repeat this process with one small little change.
Kali Wifi Fix
1. Copy the sources.list from the package provided
2. Replace /etc/apt/sources.list with the included
3. Some of the file path changes but the process remains the same from here.
Congratulations you now have 3 OSes one portable to other machines and working wifi!
Thank you
SirGed -
have a problem with my MacBook Pro.5,3 and monitor. Intermittently, the desk top screen becomes broken up into vertical sections, which appear in the wrong order, creating a haphazard picture.
The Apple icon, usually at top left corner, appears in top right corner in a strip including all that left hand. When the computer is restarted, the screen goes back to normal. But I have to move the mouse to the far left of the screen and then up until it reappears on the far right hand side of the screen so that I can hit shut down button.
It seems to happen randomly though always on desk top and sometimes when I move mouse and computer switches on from rest mode. My large flat screen is relatively new.
The video card on this computer, which is approximately two years old, is Nvidia FeForce 9400M.
Any help would be welcome as my usual source of assistance is not available and I am not well versed in workings of the Mac although I have used one for many years.That sounds like a Hardware problem.
You may be able to confirm that with Apple Hardware Test, or make an appointmenst for a free Genius Bar evaluation. -
Why is there no updates to the firefox throttle add-ons ? Is there an alternative? throttle is Bandwidth utilization throttling and monitoring extension for Firefox
Well, it's probably one of two things: either the awesome dude(tte) who developed this awesome extension was tired of updating or the changes in FFox software architecture carried out between version 3.x and 4+ created challenges that were too difficult for him to surmount or a combination of both. Honestly, I love Mozilla but I think they dropped the ball on the throttle issue. It's such an obvious and necessary function and it's so easy to implement. They should have included it a long time ago as in built feature. And, if you are browsing and looking at this post and you agree. Add a suggestion in mozilla.org. The more of us asking for this function, the better.
Meanwhile, I have the following solution for you:
Solution 0.6.9.23.11 (DIY Version of my Solution ):
Setting Up a Separate Portable Firefox 3.6.x that runs independently of and simultaneously to your latest version of Firefox
Get FireFox Portable 3.6.24:
http://portableapps.com/apps/internet/firefox_portable/localization#legacy36
It's a portable app, meaning that it's got all it's profiles and preference and application files in the same directory. It won't compete with your current installation of Firefox, has it's own separate extension folder etc...
Get Firefox Throttle 1.1.6
http://firefox-throttle.en.softonic.com/ (I couldn't find it in the official mozilla site)
It will be flagged as incompatible with even that old version of firefox (but it isn't). You just need to turn off compatibility checking. You can do that with this extension:
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/add-on-compatibility-reporter/?src=search
If you have Bookmarks you want to port to the portable (bad pun intend), backup them up to bookmarks.json file on your desktop and import them to the portable version. You can export/import more stuff using FEBE addon but that's a whole world of headaches if you don't your doing.
Many of your extensions favourites extensions will no longer work on FFox 3.6.x but if, in that same addon's page, you look around until you find a link to previous versions of the addon, you will notice that the compatibility info is right below the version numbers. Just download and install the latest version that is compatible with you 3.6.x....
Voila mon ami! Your FFox 3.6 portable has just become your own private Download Mule whom you can throttle to your hearts content (ever throttle a real Mule??? I wouldn't try it, personally...) Do your regular browsing in another (unthrottled) browser and do your big downloads in the Mule...
If you want to keep using your brand spanking new Firefox for other types of browsing while using this portable Mule edition for the downloads, just add -p -no-remote to the shortcut leading to your Firefox Portable Mule edition.
For example, my taskbar shortcut to my Firefox Portable is:
""C:\Program Files (x86)\FirefoxPortableLegacy36\FirefoxPortable.exe"
I just changed it to:
"C:\Program Files (x86)\FirefoxPortableLegacy36\FirefoxPortable.exe" -p -no-remote
This will make it occupy it's own independent instance and I can use the both my Firefox Nightly and the Firefox Portable editions at the same time (each one, using a different profile ie. extensions, cookies, password, cache etc).
If you're on Linux, you can just run this on Wine and set the Windows Version to Windows 2000 in the Wine config,
If you want to get rid of the Portable Apps splash screen, click here:
http://www.ghacks.net/2011/06/06/getting-rid-of-portableapps-splash-screens/
Solution 0.6.9.23.11 (Non-DIY Version of my Solution):
Download my preconfigured but SWAGGED-THE-HECK-UP PortableFirefox 3.6
Having realized that some of you may find the above to be daunting. I took my own customize firefox portable, took out all my data and compressed the folder (it's portable, so it'll run as soon as you unzip it).
Here is a screenshot:
http://www.mediafire.com/?o95nkwo8y6q535j
Here is the download link:
http://www.mediafire.com/?xdw87ivf3184u2s
Don't forget to modify your Start/Taskbar shortcuts:
"C:\wherever you decide to put it\FirefoxPortableLegacy36-Swagged-UP!\FirefoxPortable.exe"
I just changed it to:
"C:\wherever you decide to put it\FirefoxPortableLegacy36-Swagged-UP!\FirefoxPortable.exe" -p -no-remote -
What happened to dual sources for input and monitoring?
In LP7 you could set up for two different hardware sources for input and monitoring. That's Gone?
Gee's there is so much wrong with LP8 and all the constant crashes, makes it an unusable program. Apple really needs to get this fixed. They should already had a fixe. Lord knows they have seen enough disgust from users. To go this long without any updates is shameful! IMHO!kevin4545 wrote:
And online software — this is no longer on the desktop? Wont that slow things down?
You download and install the software on your computer, same as you've always done. The software runs on your computer, same as it's always done.
kevin4545 wrote:
Do you have that upgrade link to CS6 j ust in case?
I already gave you three threads containing the link to the page where you buy an upgrade, but here it is:
https://www.adobe.com/products/catalog/cs6._sl_id-contentfilter_sl_cat alog_sl_software_sl_creativesuite6.html?start=10
Click on "Buy" then pick "Upgrade" and provide further details. -
LR Color Management - Calibration and Monitor (not your typical post)
Hi everybody,
I see that there are still many issues around color management and printing in LR. I have had similar problems in past and Im still trying to work though them. The most touted problem is not calibrating or having a bad monitor profile. Well, I have tried calibrating my display with worse results. I get better results with an un-calibrated display, not exact results, but closer than with a calibrated display. My only computer is a Dell Latitude D830 with an LCD display and Nvidia Quadro 140M graphics card with a Spyder2 Suite calibration tool.
After doing a fair bit of research online and speaking to other photographers (pro and amateur) Ive learned that laptop displays are notoriously difficult to calibrate due to their inability to display a wide range of color and contrast. There is also no way to adjust white point, RGB or any other setting on my display, only brightness and contrast. (perhaps a big part of the problem?)
I was told that only high end displays (NEC, LaCie, Eizo etc @ $1000,00 this being the low end, and up) were the only way to get accurate colors. Others had said that LG and Samsung make a decent display at the $300.00 price point that would deliver good results but not pro level color management. Other than that go, back to an old CRT display. What is a semi-pro level display that renders excellent color that I wont have to re-mortgage my house to pay for?
So heres my question to all of those who have said you need to calibrate and you have a bad profile can you please tell us your system set up (i.e. display, calibration tool, room lighting and set up etc..)?
Im really interested in what you are doing more, better or differently than everyone else.
Thanks,
DC>Im really interested in what you are doing more, better or differently than everyone else.
Nothing much. Same calibrator in addition to another Huey Pro which gives almost indistinguishable results. I use both a Apple Mac Book Pro and a Mac Pro with a 30" DELL wide gamut adobeRGB display. Colors on the two are identical (if they're not outside of the laptop's gamut) and identical to prints from labs and direct prints. Of course these displays are between far better and quite a bit better than the display on a typical Dell laptop that are notoriously bad. One of the things I have to do on the laptop is to get the display at the right angle. The trick I use is to have a window open with this image: http://www.normankoren.com/monitor_test_txt22.png
from this website: http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html
If you're looking at your monitor at the right angle and you have calibrated the display correctly, the color should look homogeneous (i.e. completely neutral and the same grey everywhere). If you cannot find an angle at which this is correct, than it is likely your monitor can simply not be calibrated or that your calibrator is defective (there was a batch of defective Spyders a while ago). In general, it is certainly not true that laptop displays cannot be calibrated.
>I was told that only high end displays (NEC, LaCie, Eizo etc @ $1000,00 this being the low end, and up) were the only way to get accurate colors. Others had said that LG and Samsung make a decent display at the $300.00 price point that would deliver good results but not pro level color management.
They are quite wrong and a rather snooty thing to say. The point of these high priced displays is that they will give better color in [B]non[/B]-colormanaged applications, but with a good calibrator, a reasonably good screen and [B]correct color management [/B](such as that in Lightroom, Photoshop, preview.app, Safari, etc.) you will get about as good color as the more expensive displays. Some of these, such as the EIZO give you wider gamuts higher bit color, or hardware adjustable white point, which are also a major selling points if you're doing very critical work but only if paired with good calibration and managed apps. Pro level color management is a function of the calibrator and the software - and only in part of the display. Most displays, with a few exceptions, can be made to give good color, as long as you use a hardware calibrator and managed apps. -
I have firefox 7.0 and i go to about:config and change the URL default from bing to google but when i close firefox an open it back up it changes back to bing why is this? I stand by google 100% and if ur gonna make it where i can't use google as the URL's seach engine then i will uninstall it.
The default of the pref network.http.max-connections has been increased from 30 to 256 in Firefox 6+ versions.
Try to decrease the value of the pref <b>network.http.max-connections</b> from 256 to 30 as used in Firefox 3 versions.
*https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Firefox+never+finishes+loading+certain+websites
Start Firefox in <u>[[Safe Mode]]</u> to check if one of the extensions or if hardware acceleration is causing the problem (switch to the DEFAULT theme: Firefox (Tools) > Add-ons > Appearance/Themes).
*Don't make any changes on the Safe mode start window.
*https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Safe+Mode -
What interface and monitors are you using?
I need to buy a new interface and monitors. I'm interested in the Native Inst. Audio Kontrol 1, the Line 6 Toneport UX2, and the Emu 0404 USB 2.0. I'll probably go with the Blue Sky Media Desk monitors.
hey there NIKKO,
i use a MOTU 828 MKII w/ a MOTU MIDI Timepiece AV & Alesis M1 MK2 Active monitors. it's not all about the hardware/software.... check out Auralex & Auralex University. a great site w/ info on room accoustics & how they can afffect your recordings & mixes. see this link -http://www.auralex.com/
it's about making music & having a good time doing it. & it is a good time on a Mac!!! good luck w/ whatever you get. -
Do I need a keyboard and monitor?
Hi,
This is a very newbie question. If I get a Mac Mini Server, do I need a keyboard and monitor to administer it, or can I use my mac book to remote access it and perform any task?{quote:title=capkin wrote:}
Because it has two hard drives, I was thinking of setting it up with Raid 1 and use it as a media server of music, pictures and video.{quote}
Be aware, if you want to set up RAID 1, you will need to have (at least temporarily) a keyboard, mouse and monitor directly attached to the monitor. You will also need some sort of DVD drive to boot the SL Server Install DVD.
G. Discenza -
Failed Hardware Scan and other issues E440
Hi all,
This is probably more rant than anything, but I wanted to give a heads up to others too.
I have a ThinkPad E440 that is a year old. From the very first time I turned it on, there have been issues. The first hardware scan (via Lenovo Solution Center - LSC) showed a warning for the Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260 Local Connection Test. There were also tons of System Events that always show up in the "Configuration History" part of the LSC. You can look at the calendar and tell exactly which days I used the computer because there will be System Events generated each day. Things like app crashes and failed drivers.
In July 2014, I got the first warning for the 16 GB SSD - the SMART Short Self-Test. By February this year it showed as failed for each hardware scan (these were initially set up to run monthly).
Also the whole time I've had it the touch screen would just stop working at some point and I would have to reboot to get it working again.
I finally called Lenovo on March 30th, before my warranty expired. When I called that time, I didn't realize the hard drive failure was the SSD. So they sent me a new 500 GB drive. I also added the other things into the case when I talked to them. For the wireless issue they suggested making sure the driver was up to date. I did this and let them know when I called back that it was up to date and still having the warning. So I called them to tell them to tell them about the wireless and also that I realized it was the SSD having the failure, not the main drive. The first case had already been closed even though none of the other items were addressed.
So they opened another case (this is #2). They said to mail them the laptop since the wireless issue would probably be on the board and it wasn't something I could fix myself. They sent a box with a prepaid overnight shipping label. I was very sick for a few days so I sent it back to them on April 10th (a Friday). Via UPS I saw it was delivered on Saturday. Work was performed on it Monday, April 13th and sent back to me that very day. I received it on April 14th. This part of the service has been excellent - very fast response.
Being in IT, I included a letter with the laptop that outlined the issues that should have been in the case. I also printed the hardware scans and what the system events looked like.
When I got the laptop back, the sheet inside said they had replaced the Speaker because of Distorted Sound. This was not even on the list even though I had noticed it. I didn't even power up the laptop before calling them again - yes, I was furious! Plus our power was out...
So this was noon on the 14th. They opened case #3 and sent me ANOTHER BOX so I could send it back.
After our power came back on the 15th, I powered up my laptop. I opened the browser (I have it set to restore the previous session) and there was a sexually explicit video on YouTube. I opened the other browser and there was a different video on YouTube. So this person was watching YouTube instead of fixing my laptop. I looked through both browser histories and there was quite a bit of activity while my laptop was at the repair center... I ran the hardware scan - still failed and a warning for the wireless. They really hadn't done anything.
I also found two pictures of the repair person in the recycle bin...
So I called back. I was LIVID! They opened another case (this is #4). And sent me ANOTHER BOX. I finally learned the other day that once a case is opened, it cannot be edited or added to at all. Instead, they close the other case and open a new one. I guess their turnaround time for closing cases is excellent! I've never seen a system like that - and I've used a lot of them.
I got a really nice, patient fellow on the line. He took all my info (again). I emailed him the pictures, screen captures of the YouTube videos, the letter I had sent - everything. He entered as much into the new case as he could - he talked to one of the supervisors to make sure he did it right. Somehow he flagged it so that the laptop would get more attention (time) at the repair facility. He also opened a separate case (an escalation ticket?) for a supervisor to call me regarding the person's conduct at the repair facility. He said they would call me that day. (It's now the 25th and I've never heard from anyone)
So, he sent me ANOTHER BOX. I've built up quite a stack of them.
Our power was out AGAIN from the 17th through the 19th (don't get me started).
I noticed a hardware scan had now gotten a failure on the main hard drive. So I called them on the 21st to add this to the case before sending the laptop back. The girl said they can't add anything to an existing case or edit it at all once it's opened. She would have to open a new case and SEND ME ANOTHER BOX. I told her to forget it because I was ready to send it in and didn't want to wait for another box. I also asked for a status on that "escalation case" where the supervisor was supposed to call me. In order to do this she, yes, wait for it, had to open ANOTHER CASE!! So they would know I wanted a status. I'm completely dumbfounded.
So I sent it back on the 21st. This time I practically wiped it. I had already removed all my files the last time, but I had left my bookmarks and browser history intact. I set up a guest logon with admin privileges. I updated my letter and printed off more stuff to include with the box. On one sheet I had only the case number, the serial number and machine type. On another sheet I had "DO NOT SEPARATE THIS PAPERWORK FROM THE LAPTOP" and the case number. I put this sheet on top (The guy on the 15th said my letter and stuff may have gotten separated from the laptop once it was delivered to the repair facility). I used a ton of staples so it would all stay together. I included in my letter the failure on the main hard drive and asked if they could look at it. I wrote about having to open a new case if I wanted to include it.
They received it on the 22nd. A nice gentleman from the repair facility called me that day asking about the password. that. was. written. on the sheet they have you fill out. I told him what happened last time and also mentioned the hard drive failure and asked if he could look into it. He said they would.
I received my laptop back yesterday morning.The sheet that came with it said they had "replaced the following parts to complete the repair of your laptop."
Part Description Symptom
IMAGE Replaced due to engineering change
System board Network card error
Hard disk drive Network card error
ECA-WIRELESS <no symptom listed>
There was also a sheet saying they had installed a factory preload of software and I needed to install Lenovo and Windows updates.
When I booted it up, the first thing I noticed, in the lower right corner was:
Windows 8.1
SecureBoot isn’t configured correctly
Build 9600
I ran a hardware scan. Well, I tried. It stopped part way through and said it finished successfully but most of the tasks showed up as cancelled. I tried to run it again - issues - rebooting ensued. It said the LSC wasn’t available and that I should try again or reboot.
Tried several times. Then got what I guess is the new BSOD - kinder, gentler:
Your PC ran into a problem and needs to restart. We're just
collecting some error info, and then we'll restart for you. (xx% complete)
If you'd like to know more, you can search online later for this error: DRIVER_CORRUPTED_EXPOOL
Even though the LSC said my Lenovo files were all up to date, I ran the Update. And first I had to download a new version of Update. Then I downloaded all of the Lenovo updates and installed them (there were quite a few). The BIOS update failed. While I was doing the Lenovo downloads, I got a light blue screen but no text (I was out of the room so I'm not sure what happened). Did CTRL-ALT-DEL and it shows only IE and Task Manager as applications that are running. Could not “Switch to” IE. Hitting window key to go to start didn't do anything. So I had to restart.
By 3pm yesterday there were 34 system events in the configuration history.
I ran the hardware scan again after I updated the Lenovo files, and you guessed it! Failure on the SSD (SMART Short Self-Test) and warning on the wireless. Nothing had changed. Except hardware scan is acting different than it did before I sent in the laptop for repairs. When it finishes, it instantly closes and just shows 100% complete. When I click on "see last results" it shows a screen called
Log Information,
Canceled 04/24/2015 n:nn pm
You have not done a hardware test on your computer
And the calendar in LSC only shows the very first hardware scan I did on Friday. Even the hardware scan screen shows the date and time of the last scan. It also shows the error code. In order to see exactly what is failing, I have to sit there and watch it very closely and snap a picture of the screen as soon as the error (or warning) shows up.
When I would try to run Windows update, it would hang up PC Settings. I couldn't even kill it using task manager because it didn't show up as a task. During this, I got a flag saying the firewall wasn't turned on. I tried to turn it on, but clicking on Turn on Windows Firewall didn't do anything. I tried to setup my Microsoft account but that just hung too.
I ended up running Windows Update FOUR TIMES to get all the updates installed. Every time I ran it, it said "Done!" and I would run it again and more would show up. The last time was this morning.
At some point, the error about SecureBoot went away.
Then, I created a bootable BIOS update disk. Following the ReadMe instructions, I went through ThinkPad Setup and verified several values. Of note:
Secure Boot was DISABLED. According to the ReadMe file, this should be ENABLED in Windows 8.1. I enabled it.
Under Startup/Boot, according to the ReadMe that came with the BIOS update, UEFI/Legacy Boot is supposed to be set at UEFI Only for Windows 8.1. Mine was set to "Both". I changed it.
In Startup, OS Optimized Defaults was DISABLED, even though it says right there (and in the BIOS update ReadMe) it should be ENABLED to meet Microsoft Windows 8 Certification Requirement.
After these updates, I flashed the new BIOS.
Then, I ran hardware scan again...
Now I have TWO failures on the SSD: Random Seek Test and SMART Short Self-Test. Great.
In the Event Viewer (that I recently discovered), it says my disk has a bad block. It just says The device, \Device\Harddisk\DR1, has a bad block. I assume this is the SSD...
There are 867 events in the event viewer - Critical, Error, and Warning...
Fifty-two of these are from October 7, 2013 - before my little laptop was a glimmer.
The rest are from when Lenovo had it and yesterday and today.
64 of them are the disk error.
341 are from DeviceSetupManager. 65 of those are from failed driver installs. 69 are for not being able to establish a connection to the windows update service. 64 are from not being able to establish a connection to the Windows Metadata and Internet Services (WMIS).
3 times it's rebooted without cleanly shutting down
60 of them are from Service Control Manager and say The TDKLIB service failed to start due to the following error: The system cannot find the file specified.
One of them says {Registry Hive Recovered} Registry hive (file): '\??\C:\Users\Default\NTUSER.DAT' was corrupted and it has been recovered. Some data might have been lost.
16 are warnings that various processors in Group 0 are being limited by system firmware.
12 say the certificate for local system with thumbprint <bunch of hex numbers> is about to expire or already expired.
108 are warnings for failure to load the driver \Driver\WUDFRd for various devices
16 are application errors
One is for the computer rebooting from a "bug check"
15 are for name resolutions timing out after none of the configured DNS servers responded.
10 are for SecureBoot being disabled.
14 for services terminating unexpectedly
15 are for WLAN Extensibility Module has stopped
61 are for applications not being able to be restarted because the application SID does not match Conductor SID
12 are for activation of CLSID timing out waiting for the service wuauserv to stop
So, I'll call them on Monday and open. a. new. case (#5?) - but really 7. And get A NEW BOX.
I'll keep you updated!Hi amycdero and welcome to the HP Forum,
I understand that you are having scanning and printing issues after upgrading to Mavericks OS X v10.9.1. I will try my best to help you resolve this issue.
In this document for Mac OS X: Scanning Software Does Not Open or Stops Responding are steps the may help you with your scanning issue.
This document for Fixing Ink Streaks, Faded Prints, and Other Common Print Quality Problems should help with the streaking printing issue.
I hope this information is helpful. Please let me know.
Thank you,
I worked on behalf of HP. -
My imac is doing strange things:
-delaying between users: when closing session it goes to blue, then takes a while to appear users signin box, and then wont recognize mouse command to enter until a couple of minutes later... then everything seems alright until....
-it gets stuck between things, the rainbow wheel appears and its just delays there forever....
-and every now and then the mouse starts flickering and bouncing wildly onscreen.
I ran the appel hardware test and it detected an error:
4MOT/4/40000003:HDD-1233
Does anybody know what that means? HELP!WZZZ answered about where to get iStat. And do check the SMART status. If it is an overheating problem due to a fan or logic board problem, your hard drive is possibly cooking itself to death. If so it isn't a faulty hard drive even though the hard drive might fail. So assuming it's a temperature problem, even if you are able to repair things on the disk with software, that is working on symptoms, not causes. I could be wrong however.
RE: AppleCare: Your iMac came with one year of AppleCare (Apple's warranty program), but within the first year you can buy 2 more years. You have to extend by the one year anniversary of purchase of the computer. Your 10,1 is too old to still be in the first year, and since you asked what it was, I'm sure you don't have it. Bottom line meaning is that whatever this problem turns out to be, you'll have to pay for it. Unless there is something like this. It is for 2011 iMacs with certain Seagate drives. You can put in your serial number for fun, but it looks like yours is too old. Lastly, some people have had Apple help them anyway if it is just out of warranty, but many have not. Your machine is one of these. Type in 10,1 in the search box. Is there an Apple Store near you? Just b/c it's out of warranty doesn't mean you shouldn't have it looked at by Apple. But no one here can say at all what Apple will or will not do.
Hope you get it taken care of! -
Firefox 5 worked fine. I installed Firefox 7, and when I ran it, tabs would just say "connecting to..." and hang. Restarting did not help. Websites open fine in IE and Chrome. Disabled all firewalls and antivirus, did not help. Uninstalled and reinstalled Firefox 5, everything worked fine again. This was using Vista 64-bit.
Upgraded to Windows 7, uninstalled Firefox 5, installed Firefox 7, had same problem. Uninstalled Firefox 7 completely (including the profile information, I saved that information in another folder), restarted computer, and installed Firefox 7 using a completely clean profile. Did not install any add-ons, checked to make sure all plug-ins were up-to-date, and updated plugins.
Now when I start Firefox, I can load 3 or 4 or 5 tabs fine -- after those first few tabs are open, I cannot open or refresh any other tabs -- including about:config and the add-on manager -- I have to restart Firefox. The hangup doesn't appear to be related to what websites I am attempting to open, but it looks like the number is the problem. I have run through all of the FAQ procedures, including changing the max number of network connections to 48, and the problem does not seem to go away.
As a side note, I had this same problem when I tried to go from version 5 to version 6 as well. Version 5 is the most recent version that worked on my system.Can you try Aurora - download it from http://www.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/channel/
And let us know how it works. -
My iPhone 5 dies at 20-24% it doesn't go all the way to 0%. Will apple replace my phone or fix my phone for free since its hardware problem and I have no money. This is my second iphone 5 replacement. I have no apple care so I'm worried. My phone has NEVER touched water! I only get 1/5 of battery use. I've also spent 30$ at the apple store on screen protectors for nothing! I really don't have 220$ nor 50$ I am on a strict budget. I believe I have to pay 220 not 50 ford a phone replacement for accidental damage. I don't know what category this falls under. I really need a new phone or battery. HELP! Will I have to pay? Also my screen lighting is all topsy-tervy every I put my screen on highest it won't work I have to wait about a minute? Forgot to mention that my apps exit out by themselves all the time when Im using them.
So, have you tried a reset? Restore from backup? Restore as new? You seem to have a few problems but do not mention any action taken to resolve them. What have screen protectors to do with anything?
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