Heat Dissipation Problems

I'm having difficulty using my current Pavilion dv4-1301TX for long hours. Heat generated from (I believe) the HDD unit just below the left hand side of the touch pad, is causing too much discomfort while using. Are there any solution to this problem?
I've used those cooling fans, but they don't help much at all. The fans are all positioned right in the centre and does not help much. I'm currently using the elevated balls but to no effect too.
Does HP has a solution to overcome this problem? The left hand side of the touch pad felt like it's able to cook an egg too.
Looking forward to hear some good recommendation. Thank you.

BAd design on this DV7 1105tx laptop
why put the air intake on the bottom ???? that means you can never use the laptop on yr lap on bed on seat etc as you will block this fan
unless HP redesign this I will be looking elsewhere for my next laptop eg toshiba where teh air intake IS on the side of the computer

Similar Messages

MacBook (13inch-late 2009) Heat/fan problem?? (2.26Ghz, white unibody)

Hello guys, I have, maybe a problem with a unibody MacBook 2.26Ghz.
Many times i have noticed that it is quite silently with his fan, even if some process are taking lot of CPU. For example, my MacBook Pro 13inch mid 2009 is not so silent, cause the fans runs faster. For example, now that I'm writing on it, the CPU temp is 55 degree and fans runs at 2500rpm. I think could be normal, even if most of the times I would prefer it would not cross 2000rpm for low temp.
By the way, interested about the fan speed of this macbook unibody I have started a hard process that was taking lot of CPU (A VLC video mkv playing at very-very-very high quality). Around 90 % of both cores was used, so the temp started to gone up as normal.
The strange thing, is that even if the CPU was running from 50, then 60 then 70 then 80 and over degree, the fan speed was still at 2000rpm. The fans was not taking care of this high temperature, all was normal. The video played for many minutes, and nothing happened, the fan was still at 2000rpm, some rpm more, some rpm less.
On my Mac Book Pro, the same process cause an increase of fan speed quite after the CPU starts to get stressed at high percentage.
I have manually tested the fan of this macbook, and it is able to go at faster speed, the classic 6200rpm can be reached if someone ask it to run at that speed.
So, now I ask you guys, does is normal that this macbook quite ignore this hard temperature and not start to cool the CPU on this high degrees? Does I have to wait more for fan speed (i have waited at last 5-10 minutes)?
My fear is that the heat could damage the CPU or cause any other hardware problems...
let me know please
thanx!!
Andrea

I have the same Macbook type. You can try resetting the System Management Controller. The details are in this link:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964

Heat & hang problem.

Hello,
I have nokia Lumia 720, when i use mobile internet connection on my cell cell is going to hot & in first month its hang 3 time ..
Over heat problem is normal ?

I just got a macbook a few weeks back. I got the $1299 one, and then throw in 2 1-gig sticks of ram. Other than that, it's stock.
I had noticed that at various times my system seems to lag. So typically what happens is I run iTunes to import/play music or run iPhoto to import photos or use iWeb to publish some website photos, and after a while the system gets so lagged it's horrible.
If i minimize to the dock it takes like 5 seconds, and same to remaximize it. I thought that I thought it was perhaps bad ram, and was about to put it through some tests. However, it's such a pain in the butt to open that little compartment with the silver stuffing on it that i decided to hold off.
So today I was lagging while listening to music and surfing the web, and i came here and searched for LAG and VIDEO and various other stuff and saw this topic as a popular one. So after reading it, i got CoreDuoTemp. I noticed my temp was 70-72 degrees. I decided to turn the pc off, let it cool down a lot, and reboot.
I did that, turned on itunes and started to play music, turned on iweb and uploaded 10 megs of photos on 1 page, also surfed various websites, opened up mail and some other stuff. basically turning all the lights on. And looked at the temp, 38-40 degrees, everything running fast, no lag, no minimize lag, perfect.
I am currently letting the pc heat up, it's at 48 degrees. still no lag. i randomly run junk and do things and see if there's a change. I just loadeed Excel, while having itunes, iweb, iphoto and some safari up, and temp jumped from 48 to 54 degrees.
I am going to watch this over the next hour or so and see what happens. i'll post findings here.. but i am now thinking the internal temp overwhelms the onboard video and causes the lag. THe video card lacks, horribly, anyway.
matt
macbook Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Heat/Performance problem

Hi all,
I've been using my Macbook 2ghz Stock with 512mb ram for a couple of days now and everything seemed to work fine and dandy. Since yesterday however I noticed OSX slowing to a crawl after an hour of working. I downloaded CoreDuoTemp to see if it had anything to do with temp. I discovered that the minute my CPU reaches 71 degree celsius it seems to be hitting a brick wall. The smoothness just stops at that very moment. Expose lags, Dashboard is slow like **** and programs take ages to load (if at all). Rebooting didn't do squat.
After letting the machine cool for a while, everything is speedy again. I launched Chess and dragged a pawn a minute or so around to put the machine under some stress. bang At 71 degrees it slows down again.
Anyone experiencing similiar problems? Is it just a faulty setting or do you guys think my Macbook is defective? I'd hate to exchange it, because the thing is **** near perfect.
It's a week 27 model by the way.
Macbook 2Ghz Stock Model Mac OS X (10.4.7)

I just got a macbook a few weeks back. I got the $1299 one, and then throw in 2 1-gig sticks of ram. Other than that, it's stock.
I had noticed that at various times my system seems to lag. So typically what happens is I run iTunes to import/play music or run iPhoto to import photos or use iWeb to publish some website photos, and after a while the system gets so lagged it's horrible.
If i minimize to the dock it takes like 5 seconds, and same to remaximize it. I thought that I thought it was perhaps bad ram, and was about to put it through some tests. However, it's such a pain in the butt to open that little compartment with the silver stuffing on it that i decided to hold off.
So today I was lagging while listening to music and surfing the web, and i came here and searched for LAG and VIDEO and various other stuff and saw this topic as a popular one. So after reading it, i got CoreDuoTemp. I noticed my temp was 70-72 degrees. I decided to turn the pc off, let it cool down a lot, and reboot.
I did that, turned on itunes and started to play music, turned on iweb and uploaded 10 megs of photos on 1 page, also surfed various websites, opened up mail and some other stuff. basically turning all the lights on. And looked at the temp, 38-40 degrees, everything running fast, no lag, no minimize lag, perfect.
I am currently letting the pc heat up, it's at 48 degrees. still no lag. i randomly run junk and do things and see if there's a change. I just loadeed Excel, while having itunes, iweb, iphoto and some safari up, and temp jumped from 48 to 54 degrees.
I am going to watch this over the next hour or so and see what happens. i'll post findings here.. but i am now thinking the internal temp overwhelms the onboard video and causes the lag. THe video card lacks, horribly, anyway.
matt
macbook Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Battery life and Heating up problems

After updating to mavericks , it seems that my macbook pro is always heated and the battery life got shorter even if I'm not using any app... anyone could help me ?

Hello Jeskar,
It sounds like you are seeing a decrease in battery life after upgrading to Mavericks. I would start by resetting the computers SMC, and evaluating the issue for a bit to see how that worked;
Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
You may also have to use the Activity monitor to see if you have any run away applications.
OS X Mavericks: About the Battery Status Menu
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5873
When one or more apps consume higher than average energy from the battery, the menu shows "Apps Using Significant Energy" with a corresponding list of those applications.
Some apps may use significant energy depending on what they are doing. This is normal. For example, if you are compressing video in iMovie, or playing a graphics-intensive game, the app may use a higher amount of energy than other apps. If you are trying to conserve battery power, quit apps listed in the significant energy section.
If you suspect that an app is appearing in the significant energy section because it is not functioning properly, try quitting and re-opening that app. If the symptom continues, open Activity Monitor from the Utilities folder to troubleshoot further. The Energy tab of Activity Monitor displays the Energy Impact of each open app based on a number of factors including CPU usage, network traffic, disk activity and more. The higher the number, the more impact an app has on battery power.
Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
Cheers,
Sterling

HT3131 Will running the Macbook Pro 2011 in clamshell mode affect heat dissipation at all?

I'm worried about the heat not being able to escape when the laptop is closed.

I have used my new mid-2012 MBP in clamshell mode and monitored the temperatures and they were no different than when the lid was open, so it appears that the cooling system is unaffected. Very little heat dissipates upwards through the keyboard/upper case anyway, the heat is directed through the rear and underside of the case.

Heat a problem when gaming?

So, I was trying out Left 4 Dead 2 last night in Win7 (Bootcamp). For some reason I felt bad to put my new iMac through such stress and to hear the fans start kicking in. I'm hoping It doesn't hurt it by getting too hot. Is there a good temperature sensor for Win7 that I can download to keep track of it? This computer does stay amazingly cool (right around 32 Celsius) when doing some web surfing in OSX.
Am I just being too paranoid about this? I did notice that the fan noise did decrease after playing for about half an hour. It seems like it did a good job of cooling it, but I'm afraid to push it too far after hearing about all the screen flickering problems right now on these discussion boards. Thankfully, mine hasn't done that yet and I've had this thing for almost a week now. The game recommended a 1080 screen resolution, but I even knocked it down to 720 just to be on the safer side.
Has anyone else done any gaming on the new 27" iMacs? What's a good temperature sensor I could use in Win7?
Thanks!

I would say, fans kicking in is a good thing! They're doing what they are built for: keeping your system cool. I'd be more worried if I was playing a game and my fans wouldn't kick in
As long as your system doesn't overheat (it'll shut down if it does) the fans will do their job keeping the temperatures well within acceptable range. I don't really know much about the maximum safe temperature, but I trust the operating system and their drivers to keep the system in a safe situation.
You could try one of the programs mentioned above and see how fast the fans are spinning. If the temperature is kept stable without having the fans going on fullspeed, I'd say your system is capable of taking care of things itself As a precaution you could make the fans spin faster to keep it cooler, but I trust my computer to keep itself safe so usually I just leave it as it is.
Message was edited by: Roald Hoolwerf

Satellite A210 - Over heating and problem updating BIOS

My aunt was having problems with her A210 so she bought herself a new one and gave me the old one. The problems she was having was the computer kept randomly shutting down. I think it is an overheating problem because the laptop runs pretty hot. The BIOS has never been updated so I was thinking that might help with this problem. Anyways, when I tried to update the BIOS this error message came up.
Cannot load driver C:\Users\Dan\Desktop\MK10AWF\PHLASHNT.SYS.
Please check your accounts, if you have no administrator privilege, please login again!
Access is denied.
Error code: 5
I am the only user on the computer and I have administrator priveleges so I'm not sure why this error is coming up. Please help. Thanks

> Has anyone else experienced overheating problems with the A210? Any solutions?
Hi mate
Im an Satellite A210 owner and to be honest an higher internal temperature could happen if the notebook would not get enough air in order to cool the internal parts like CPU and GPU.
Some weeks ago I used the notebook lying on the couch I didnt notice that the cooling ventilators which are placed at the bottom of the unit were clogged because of my relax position if you know what I mean ;)
After a short time of usage, the notebook shut down automatically I was a little bit surprised but I realized that the air could not circulate and therefore the notebook overheated
Now, Im using the unit only on the desk. This is recommended and it helps to keep the temperature on lower level
PS: My BIOS is up to date...

Ibook lid closed while playing music?

hi,
how can i set it up so that my ibook continues to play music even after I close down the "lid"?
thanks.
Powerbook g4 Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Hi and welcome to Apple Discussions.
Simple answer: You can't.
There are, apparently, unauthorised and probably warrantee busting 'hacks' that will enable you to do this but they are not recommended due to heat dissipation problems. The PowerBook was able to do this 'out of the box', & probably one or both of the new MacBook/Pro Intels, but never the iBook.
Adrian

When a new Mac mini?

I am looking forward for Apple to update the Mac mini. I cannot buy an iMac as I don't need a new monitor (already own a 20" Apple Cinema Display) and I cannot spend 2000+$ to get a Mac Pro, as my needs are not high enough to justify the buy.
The Mac Mini is effectively the only "standard" desktop product from Apple.
I wonder, when will this super machine be updated with new hardware, possibly a dual processor option (but there might be a heat dissipation problem, I understand - but what about a quad-core? - the same applies to the iMac, BTW), Blu-Ray support, bigger drives and better graphics card?
I would update my Mini with this new machine if it ever came out.
Apple - could you please update the Mini or come out with a new desktop product that doesn't have an in-built monitor?

Since Apple Discussions is a user-to-user support resource, no-one can really tell you what Apple's plans are for the mini - or indeed any other Apple product. The only people who do know Apple's plans are restricted by non-disclosure agreements and are thus not able to provide any information.
All one can reasonably assume is that as and when the Mac mini is updated, it will remain the entry level system with the most basic specification of any Mac system. As such, it is not likely to gain top-end features, or components such as Blu-Ray which are not yet present and established in the rest of the range. You can really only assume that barring a radical reshaping of the product range as a whole (of which there is no indication) the Mac mini will gain only incremental performance enhancements.
It seems to me that it would be best to make purchasing decisions based on products that exist at present - or to wait as long as possible to make a purchase if the current product range is not sufficient for your needs.

Macbook Pro CPU problem - idle % consistently low, please help!

Hi,
I've had my Macbook for about 8 months and never had any problems with it. Recently it started running very slow - freezing, mouse moving slow, typing response slow. I tried some solutions I found online (installing all updates, resetting NVRAM/PRAM, reindexing Spotlight, verifying disk permissions, entering purge in terminal). None of these worked. I checked Activity Monitor and the problem appears to be with the CPU, since every time the computer is running slow the Idle % is under 10%. Out of an abundance of caution, I uninstalled two Chrome plugins which were the only things I've installed in months (Adblocker and Disconnect.) I don't use any games or any other apps - pretty much all I do on my laptop is browse the internet on Chrome and use MS Word. I also have plenty of disk space, so I know that lack of storage is not causing this problem.
The only thing that has worked, at least temporarily, is shutting down, connecting to power source, and holding ctrl option shift power for 10 seconds, then turning back on (this was suggested in another thread on these forums.) The first time I did this it worked like a charm - my computer worked fine afterward, with the idle% back up to well over 90. However, it started running slow again the next day. I repeated the key process and again it seemed fine. Then again it slowed.
At this point I've tried the same solution several times and it doesn't seem to be helping anymore. Upon startup the idle% use in Activity Monitor is anywhere between 4% and 10%. The kernel_task is showing around 350% in Acitvity Monitor.
I have a very important test coming up at the end of the month and I'm studying 16 hours a day, and can't afford to be away from my computer for long. Is there ANYTHING I can do to fix this from home, or does it need to be taken into Genius under Apple care? If so, will they have to send it out and replace the hard drive, or will it be an easy in-store fix?
Any information would be appreciated! I am about sick to death of Apple products (my old first gen Macbook Air had to have its hard drive replaced twice and its screen replaced once.) If I can't find a solution I may have no choice but to up and buy a PC.

The kernel is using excessive processor cycles. Below is a partial list of causes for this condition.
Throttling
When it gets high temperature readings from the hardware, the kernel may try to compensate by interrupting the processor(s) to slow them down and reduce heat dissipation. This condition can be due to an accumulation of dust, to high ambient temperature, or to the malfunction of a cooling fan or temperature sensor. You might, or might not, see messages like the following in the Console window:
SMC::smcHandleInterruptEvent WARNING status=0x0 (0x40 not set) notif=0x0
The timestamps of those messages (if any) indicate the times, since the log was last cleared, when a processor was being throttled due to high temperature.
Note that if the problem is caused by a faulty sensor that reads too high, there may be no actual overheating.
The Apple Hardware Test, though not very reliable, is sometimes able to detect a bad fan or temperature sensor.
Using Apple Hardware Test
Encryption
Transferring large amounts of data to or from an encrypted disk image or FileVault volume may put an extra load on the kernel. If both the source and the destination are encrypted, the load may be doubled. If you transfer data from an encrypted disk image on an encrypted partition to another such image on another encrypted partition, the load may be quadrupled.
This issue probably doesn't affect late-model Macs with an Intel i-series, recent Xeon, or later processor. Those processors support hardware-accelerated encryption. You can determine what kind of processor you have by selecting About This Mac from the Apple menu in the menu bar.
Installed software
User-installed software that includes a device driver or other kernel code may thrash the kernel. Some system-monitoring applications, such as "iStat," can also contribute to the problem. You can test for this possibility by completely disabling or removing the software according to the developer's instructions, or booting in safe mode (with the shift key held down at the startup chime.) Note, however, that disabling a system modification without removing it or booting in safe mode may not be as easy as you think it is.
Corrupt NVRAM or SMC data
In some cases the condition has reportedly been cleared up by resetting the NVRAM or the SMC. I can't confirm.

Do any Macbook Pro 17" have NO heat issues?

I am on the fence as to whether or not to buy or wait until new models come out to see if Apple actually fixes this issue. I use "notebook" computers on my LAP all the time. I've searched and seen that some seem hot... some not so much. *Can someone tell me if the issue has finally been solved and if so what manufacture date to look for?* Also, does solved mean comfortable?
Looking at MacBook Pro 17" 2.93 with 7200 upgrade.
Thanks for any help!
Thanks for

The user manual, I believe, still states that the computers should not be used on one's lap because of possible heat injury.
All Intel based laptops run hot unless they weight about 7 pounds and can have large fans and heat sinks. But if you want a lighter and thinner computer then they will be hot because there's only so much space inside for fans and heat dissipation systems to function.
This is not a "problem" that can be solved. This is simply an engineering limitation.
You can visit a local Apple vendor to see if you can test one of the new laptop models to determine for yourself if they are too hot for your comfort. But I doubt you will find anything different from other manufacturers such as Dell with respect to their light weight laptops.
I use four different Intel laptops including a unibody MBP. I do not use them on my lap, but they all run comfortably to the touch unless the CPU and GPU are under heavy application usage. Then they can get pretty hot.

Please Help - Screen corruption while in Aperture - graphics card problem?

Over the past few weeks, I have noticed frequent screen corruption within the confines of the image that I am currently editing. The corruption only occurs when in Aperture. The corruption occurs as multiple thin (one pixel?) horizontal lines of random color and random length that occur in random locations within the image. If I force a re-calculation of the image (such as change white balance) the random lines will disappear, only to reappear somewhere else. The actual image (after export) is never corrupted, only the display. Recently Aperture has started to "hang" in random ways, sometimes freezing the whole machine, sometimes crashing, sometimes beach-balling.
This sounds like a hardware problem to me, but the standard Apple hardware test runs without errors, as does an extended memtest. Setup: Mac Pro, 5GB, SW fully updated to 10.4.11 and Aperture 1.5.6. I tried re-seating the graphics board to no avail.
Are there any programs that I can use to test the Radeon X1900 card?
Any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance.

Thanks David,
I did some more research and it appears that quite a few of us (unlucky) users with an early version of the Radeon X1900 graphics card are now seeing failures that appear to be due to poor heat dissipation by the graphics card. There's a huge thread on the subject here:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1195969
The problem with random display glitches doesn't show up for most people until they upgrade to Leopard, which puts a larger strain on the graphics card than Tiger. I am still running Tiger, but the glitches show up for me when using Aperture, which of course uses the graphics card more aggressively than most other programs. I assume that Aperture increases the heat which causes the glitches.
I tried cleaning the dust out of the Radeon's heat sink, and I added a tool (smcFanControl) that lets me manually override the default fan speed. By keeping the card's temperature lower, the glitches have gone away. If I let the temperature rise, they come back. Looks like I'll be needed a new graphics card.

GOT PROBLEM! READ THIS FIRST! (Updat

Today, i will cover about sound quality. It means you get to understand the problem of sound and understand what is SOUND!! You will find my own tweaks setting below of it...
Distortion:
Distortion is not just Booooo....booooo sound you heard!! If you listen to a distorted above average speaker output it will never crack. But this doesnt conclude the speaker didnt distort and can blast until FULL volume!! If you hear the bass hitting isnt percise or hard to hit with added of loud boooo boooo noises, IT MEANS IT HAD REACHED ITS LIMIT
In addition, if you hear your sub woofer wood had lossen screw or wood sound, it also means it had reach it limit.
So, FOR GOD SAKE, THE TABLE SHACKING BY BOOO BOO SOUND IS NOT BASS, IS A CRAP RETART LOSSY DISTORTED SPEAKER. Some music booo a lot...but it will be a mighty booo, then again, it depends on the music. Good speaker like the S750 wont boo a lot! How to test it's Switch on "Hooboostank-The Reason" if your speaker boo like hell in this music, IT SUCKS!! UNDERSTAND? END!
UNDERSTANDING THE MUSIC CONCEPT
When i say this topic, please dont judge people speaker distort badly. You should understand that some music causes that too. Music bit rate is the cause of the sound quality. The higher the better, the lower the worse. Hissing sound is the problem of the music itself or bit rate of the music. So, please check the bit rate of your music content if it doesnt sound right. To understand more of music concept, get a headset to hear it clearer, they do make a diffrence ^_*...
Bass Audjustments
Most NOOBS or nuts thing that the only way to get strong bass is turning the bass setting to the highest! WRONG!!!(It is true if you had a $30 below speaker) If you had a surround or a high end speaker, turning the bass to the highest will sound like a lossen plate with nuts being screwed tight! As a result, you will hear no deep down firing bass, instead of a tight screwed bass listening experience. IF you turn your bass setting to center, and use the master sound volume to go up, the bass can beat more smoother and easier. Is hard to explain, but it makes a diffrence in terms of deep and precise of it...try it out!
VARIOUS SPEAKERS
Speakers can be categorized to_O. For example, while do people gives praise to altech lansing more ? and comments klipsch as the best game speaker in the market ? why?
It is because diffrent speaker gives diffrent output. some speakers like 2. speakers often tweak it for average used, thats games, music and movies.. Ever heard of road show TV speaker that cost $0,000 and sound great in movies but sound terrible in music? THATS THE POINT! How to diffrentiate? To diffrentiate it, a speaker that gives out hard bass is mainly for games, not suitable for music or movies. Secondly, speaker bass that is soft is for movies and musics. Althought sound card can configure it, but it still makes a diffrent in speakers type. Now why do my s750I 200++ walt RMS power is not as good as the logitechz5500 00++ walt?
Design WOOFER output
Is not about design, is about how the bass output. If you buy a woofer that had a satellite hole(Not the output air hole, the hole that had cage in it) facing down to the floor, you wont hear bass hit outside your room. It is because the bass all gone down. As a result, your downstair neighbours is mad @_#(Read speaker placement for details). So again, why people said s750I bass is not good as the logitech? it is because S750I bass is facing the floor and the Logitech Z5500 is facing to the outer direction like the standard direction used by all 2. speaker. Facing Left or front or back and NOT DOWN like S750i! Lastly, S750I bass is better than Z5500 just that you cant know it ^!^...
HEAT MANAGEMENT
I had receive report saying that gigaworks wont last for a year..... So, You think you can on your speaker 24/7? THINK AGAIN. They say your listening will decrease after hours of long bass firing music. WRONG!!! If you blast your speaker too long, the hearing decrease is not you, but is the SPEAKER! To maintain a healthy speaker, blast it for 3 to 6 hours a day and rest between 2 hours before continuing. If you dont believe it, try it yourself!!! Make sure you turn it off, not on without use!
SUB PLACEMENTS
A lot of people tends to put their sub woofer under their desk, center of their sit. GOOD, BUT IDIOT!! Why? if you put like that, you wont had a enjoyable listening experience, cause the bass would irritate you too much. To maximize your listening experience, put your sub woofer at places that dont block left, right backwards, foward sections. Gi've the speaker a big clear way. If you do that, the sound will blast nicely. If you dont, the blocked junction will compressed all the bass towards a specify direction, resulting in overwhelming bass experience *~*. In my opinion, put it left or right of you !
Example of some distorted sound problem quality games
DOOM 3
Problems: Hissing while monster attacked with fire
Solution: Sit far from your speaker, you wont feel it
Case: Weird
BATTLE FIELD 2
Problems: distorted and cracked sound while Jet missles hit something or car blow out
Solution: sit far from your speaker, it wont happend!
Case: **bleep** weird
Quake 4
Problems: surround speaker with "Tak" like there's a speaker problem when user countering a lot of enemies while firing happily ^!^.
Solution: 00% game need a patch
Case: is normal (EA fault)
Examples of music that had some problems
IN LUV with a striper & T-Sprung
Problem: Just listen to that bass sound, people will think your bass got problem in far listening
KElly Clarkson Because Of You.
Problem: the bass, is a terrible bass song. This can be heard clearly by turning on 24-bit crysterllizer.
All Hilary Duff Old Album Songs
Problem: her song bass is recorded in low quality, so you will experience some weird experience
Example of music that sounds good ^!^
Try listening to some club music like
BeniBessi
Linkin Park
Where is the love
Result: their bass is percise and strong.
So, IS MUSIC PROBLEM, PLEASE UNDERSTAND THE CONCEPT!!
WHAT SETTING I USE?
My Hardware's
P4 2.8
Gigayte mother board
756 Ram
Direct 9xC
Window XP pro
X-Fi Platinium
Gigaworks s750i.
Software
Windows Media Player 0 for movies and music (REMEMBER, EQUALIZER MUST BE TURN OFF, IT AFFECTS QUALITY)
Power DVD XP as codec
*NEVER USED CREATIVE PLAYERS (Wont support full surround)
*make sure your divx sound setting is not interfering with your sound setting (It always does, So i never install it ^!^)
*make sure there is only sound driver installed and thats only CREATIVE. No remix application or stupid bass boost applications, or no crapy sound filtering applications installed.
Settings
ENTERTAINMENT MODE
Equalizer OFF
SVM OFF
BASS REDIRECTION OFF
FULL DYNAMIC RANGE SELECTED
-Side,and Rear.
-decode with sound card
Dolby Digital On
DTS On
CMSS-3D Stereo surround 50 percent
24-BIT CRYSTLELLIZER MAXIMUM
7. setting
GAME MODE
-SAME, D. I.K HEADS!!
With this setting i make, i had no such problem as you encounter! JUST TO LET YOU KNOW THAT,good products will discover the bad things of other products. For example, if the music is distorted, you will listen it clearly. it just a meaning of whether you can understand the meaning of it ^_*
TAKE A LOOK AT A SURVEY CONDUCTED:
35 percent of user have more money than brains
70 percent of user that i had conducted says that his $43 speaker system will not distort at high volume! for example of the conducted users speakers are, altech lansing 2., Klipsh Promedia 2.!!!
95 percent of user doesnt aware of KPBS quality formats in MP3, WMA...
00 percent of user is stupid enough to cheat by advertisements ^!^...
thas all ~
by: Meow ^-^Message Edited by MeowHelper on 03-26-20060:20 PM

MeowHelper wrote:
but a distort booo will become tuuuuuuuu, tuuuuuu ,tooooo
:smileyindifferent:
Are you absolutely certainI was convinced it it would be a wuuuuu wuuuuu wooooo!
MeowHelper wrote:
HEAT MANAGEMENT
I had receive report saying that gigaworks wont last for a year.....
So, You think you can on your speaker 24/7? THINK AGAIN. They say your listening will decrease after hours of long bass firing music. WRONG!!! If you blast your speaker too long, the hearing decrease is not you, but is the SPEAKER! To maintain a healthy speaker, blast it for 3 to 6 hours a day and rest between 2 hours before continuing. If you dont believe it, try it yourself!!! Make sure you turn it off, not on without use!
You'll find that most of the thermal problems people experience on here are actually the BASH power amp ICs burning out; heat dissipation is a problem with most IC power am
ps.
I've never heard of a speaker's output decreasing when the voice coil gets hot. Some amps reduce the volume as a safety mechanism to protect the output devices when they become too hot, then normal power is restored when the temperature dro
ps.
If what you experience is actually happening, and you're not temporarily deafening yourself with?your booo booo's and toooo toooo's , then it's probably the?thermal protection in the amp, and nothing to do with the speaker voice coil.
MeowHelper wrote:
thas all ~
Thank god for that!? :smileyvery-happy:

Toshiba has a real problem with overheating & customer care across the board

So, my perpetually overheating X505-Q896 finally got sent in for repairs...the price to replace the video card which probably finally died because of the poor heat dissipation? 800. 800 for a 4 year old replacement PC graphics card including labor and parts surcharges (they're asking another 150 to replace another plastic piece which they're reporting "broken"... no clue what that is) you've got to be kidding me. not only do they pop out a poorly designed original machine, but when it's in half runnable state they let the secondary repair middlemen (the toshiba after warr repair guys) RAKE YOU OVER THE COALS. so, do I bend over and spend 800 on a 4 year old machine? or pony up a grand for another gaming laptop? neither are great options. You can bet one thing, if I buy a new machine you can bet your bottom dollar it WILL NOT be a toshiba. They discontinued the Qosmio for a reason. And if you plunked 1.5k or whatever into it I hope you get good use out of it. when I get it back it MIGHT Be able to play videos for my kids. 800!!!!!!!!!

I think I solved the wifi connection problem, just by switching off completely the router! sounds trivial, but in this case it worked!!!
the funny behaviour of the trackpad/cursor still persists. any suggestion???
thanks again

Heat Dissipation Problems

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