Higher quality mp3?

Is there anyway to get a higher quality mp3 than 128 when buying from the ITunes Music Store? I've set my software to convert at 190, but it doesn't do it on things i buy?
reply to [email protected]
Thanx

The Music Store downloads are currently only available in protected AAC (MP4) 128 kbps format. Because they are DRM protected, to get them to anything else you have to burn them to an audio CD first then import that CD back into iTunes in the format of your choice. It's inevitable however that you'll lose quality as you'll now have a copy two generations from the original.

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I am downloading a digital album and i have to choose between apple lossless, flac, and high quality mp3. i am using itunes and i have a pc running windows 7 does that make a difference?

I am downloading an album and I don't know which format to choose. Flac, apple lossless, or high quality mp3. I want to play it in itunes, on my iphone and i have a pc running windows 7. Does that make a difference?

Go with Apple Lossless. It will play readily in iTunes vs. FLAC. You can convert it later to mp3 if you wish but you cannot convert mp3 to ALE or FLAC and get back the quality that was lost. You can also convert ALE to FLAC if you need to.

How can I convert downloaded mpeg 4 music to high quality mp3

I need to be able to convert MPEG 4 files from Itunes into MP3 but the default is set at 160KBPS can I set it higher in Itunes ????

Sputnick007 wrote:
Many Thanks
You are welcome. Enjoy the music!

What Is The Best Way To Connect Ipod To Stereo Reciever With High Quality?

I recently purchased an 80 gig and am a newbie. I ripped all my music at around 280kbps to retain good audio quality when playing in my car and home theatre system. There are tons of accesories out there (docks, jacks, etc) which is the highest quality to connect my Yamaha receiver. I would think a connection to the bottom of my ipod would be of a higher quality rather than using the headphone jack. Any suggestions would be great. I was thinking about using the monster itv link but mostly for audio. thanks

OK - So now that you have all completely ignored the original question - in hopes of proving your manly-hood....
Does anyone have an answer to the original question....
"What is the best way to connect to a high end home stereo to retain the best sound?"
For sure any connection going through the headphone jack will be a big step back - enough so that you would easily hear a sound quality loss in doing so.
For the few of you who would like to argue/bicker/rant on the nominal sound quality loss....keep on doing so, but for those who actually have some respectable advice we would love to hear it.
For the record, I tend to hear just outside the normal human auditory range...
To help myself put it to rest already... a few years back I decided to conduct my own little listening test.
I took 6 different common ripping modalities (from lossless - to - 128kbps in both MP3 & AAC.... then transfered all of them in order to a blank. Used the same song for each - the song chosen opened with a few clean crisp bars of high freq. music, followed by an instant explosion/drop into a tight & low bassline.
The final cutoff that was achieved before I was unable to detect an audible difference was 198 VBR AAC. Having convinced myself that there was the ever sooooooo slight difference b/t 198 & 256, I went with my current ripping status of 256.... Just incase my audible range should become finally honed with age (yeah, like that is really going to happen) !
This test was run over a Yamaha DSP receiver, running at a constant 110w per channel (w/a max of 220w). The speaker setup was a full surround set of Klipsch Reference Series..... each speaker housing 2 x 6.5 woofer (each housing 2 x 1" Titanium tweeters) And sitting along side the 5 surrounds was/is a 150w continuous 12in. Subwoofer.
Now I am hardly stating that I have hearing as good as some of you extremely technically profound music enthusiasts out there, but for the majority of people making comments about sound quality, and lack there of - when played over a $120/40w Audiovox radio.... I'm sorry, but I would have to side on that of......"Hogwash, that you can hear a difference!"
So.... if possible would someone please offer some advice on a dock or cable connection that will allow us to enjoy the music we ripped at whatever
so-called range we did!
For those interested in seeing who could hit the further bullseye with their eyes closed, You win!!! Now can you help us?
MBP Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Minimum size/maximum quality MP3 sound file balance

My first objective when creating MP3 files is to compress the sound file as much as possible, and I don't want any file to exceed 1MB, if possible. (One exception was compressing a 30 minute poetry recitation into a 1.8 MB file.) That turned out okay, but music is another story. So, I'd like to know more about how to strike a satisfactory balance between size and quality. For the iTunes MP3 import settings,this means choosing between (1) STEREO BIT RATES (16kbps to 320 kbps), (2) QUALITY (Low to Highest), and (3) CHANNEL (mono or stereo)
In the past, I have always chosen mono, but it now occurs to me that the quality enhancement of stereo might justify the larger files caused by slightly higher kbps settings. That's just one example. Anyway, I'd like to read an article on the trade-offs between the variables that iTunes provides. Any
suggestions?

Stereo Bit Rate is what people are talking about when they say that a song is XXX kbps. (kbps is a measure of bit-rate, a measure of kilobytes per second).
Stereo v. Mono really depends on what type of song you are sampling, and what you are listening to it on. For virtually all music recorded after 1970, though, you'd probably want to use Stereo.
Also, you might get some mileage by making sure that you are importing the music at 41.100 kHz rather than using Auto or 48.000. (This is basically the "speed" at which the music is sampled. The faster its sampled, the more information it contains. It makes it higher quality, but also higher file size. You probably won't notice too much difference between 41.1 and 48.)
Finally, you should also check the Variable Bit Rate box. This will help reduce the file size, as the bit rate will be reduced during silences and other times where the song doesn't need more information.
As for the overall Bit Rate, its really subjective. Your best bet is to just try it at a few different levels and decide which is best for you.

Tracks cutting short on iPod after replacing with higher quality files?

I've been replacing old mp3 by deleting them from the hd then "re-finding" the newer higher quality versions in iTunes.
Problem is all these new files always cut short in my iPod, it's been driving me mad, I thought the solution would be to erase the pod completely then replace all the files, I did this (twice) and it still happens, I even filled my pod with completely different mp3s just so I knew the files were definitely getting wiped but still the tracks I replaced cut short when I put them back on the pod.
I really hope the only solution isn't to delete the files from iTunes then re-import them, I've been trying to avoid this as my library is a few years old now with a bunch of meta-data (play counts, ratings etc) that will be lost if I do this, there must be some other way, seems a bit silly, I'd really like to know why it's happening.
This only happens on my vid pod not my shuffle btw.
any suggestions?

Ok thanks, I downloaded vbrfix but I'm not quite sure how it works (though I replaced the line of code for Mac as outlined) is there something I have to do to get it operational?
It looks like it's a problem with the iTunes metadata fooling the iPod into thinking the vbr file should end earlier then it does, maybe because cbr data was there originally and hasn't been replaced with vbr data, though it's strange this only manifests itself on the vid pod.
Would I really need to re-rip my cds? problem is I wanted to use the LAME encoder which can't be done very satisfactorily from with iTunes, it looks like maybe this vbrfix could just alter the metadata in the files themselves to make them more iPod friendly?

Exporting final project for youtube (with high quality)

hey guys,
i have been trying to export videos and upload them onto youtube giving them a high quality look for some time now.
the website recommends for the best quality:
-mpeg 4
-320X240
-MP3 audio
-30 fps
there is even a video on it here:
http://www.google.com/support/youtube/bin/answer.py?answer=55745&topic=10526
i tried two different ways of exporting my project. i use fc express hd on a macbook pro...the first export was an mpeg 4 divx export. i used the 4 recomendations but it still came out pixilated. i then tried the regular mpeg 4 option in the export menu. this one had a different audio option. there was no mp3 listen and ACL audio or something like that,
either way they both came out pixilated! this was only a 5 minute long video. i have seen plenty of videos on youtube that were 8 minutes long and crystal clear.
there must be SOMETHING i should change in my exporting options! please help! its been like a year and a half now that ive been searching for clear youtube videos!
thanks for your time,
Mike

hmm i tried there suggestions and unfortunatly it came out pixilated!
i was excited to see the results too because that page given seemed like it would work...
i double checked all of the settings and they matched up with what they suggested...
does any body have any suggestions? thankyou!

How many hours of high quality music fits on a 16 gigabyte iPod

How many hours of high quality music fits on a 16 gigabyte iPod?

A "16Gb" iPod nano has enough room to store about 14.5Gb of music, assuming this to be the only media stored there. If by "high quality" you mean lossless, using Apple Lossless/ALAC format, that equates to around 30 hours of music (there will be some variations depending on the nature of the music and the degree to which ALAC compresses the audio data). AIFF files are larger, though of the same quality as ALAC - maximum in this case is approx. 20 hours.
For "iTunes Plus" quality (256kbps lossy compression) files will be between one-third and one-quarter the size of the same music in ALAC, so the total time goes up to around 90-120 hours. My 16Gb 7th gen nano is currently full to capacity using a mix of 256kbps AAC and 320kbps MP3 files - iTunes reports the total time as 4.9 days (117 hours).

Higher quality music

During my most recent iTunes song purchase, I was offered some special format, high-quality download. It's $1.29 instead of $0.99. Does anyone believe the quality is better? About 30% better?
Thanks!
Lindsay

The sound quality will be better with this but this is not the only selling point of the extra $.30 for the higher quailty version. By paying $1.29 you are also getting music that can be played on any music player that can play AAC files. If you own an iPod and never want another music player then pay the thirty cents for the quailty. If you think you may at some point want to switch to another mp3 player, then you have the satisfaction of knowing you have no restrictions from the iTunes plus (higher quality) music, and you can play that music anywhere you wish.
Hope this helped your decision making.
Mac Mini Intel Core Duo 1.66 Mac OS X (10.4.9)

High quality sound cl

is there a good site that has some really or video/audio clips ?
24bit 96khz et al ?

jacqueline42 wrote:
At present, the library has been built in a MP3 format; Cambridge upsamples to better quality..
Not really. MP3 works by throwing away bits of the audio it assumes you won't miss (this gets less and less true as you reduce the bitrate). Once that's done the quality is fixed - you can convert it to AIFF, upsample it, anything you like, but you can't put back what was taken out.
However it's always advisable to use as good an output path as you can. Though they are much improved on older models, Macs' analogue outputs inevitably have a certain amount of mucky noise; any digital output is to be preferred, and a high quality DAC will be able to produce lower jitter (errors in the timing of the sampling rate). However all this is in the interest of making the existing recording no worse: you can't ever actually make it better. (There are digital noise reduction techniques, applicable to hiss and to impulsive noise, but these are a conjuring trick: they always degrade the original signal, but the skill is in using them so that the trade-off in noise reduction makes it worth while. You can't remove distortion or the artefacting caused by over-compression.)

Need to convert video and audio files in high quality

Hi to all, i need to convert file types such as .AVI, .WMV and .MOV and keep the high quality, but i dont have or know any software to do this, are there any good options out there?
I don't really want to use a trial version, thanks.

I've used FFMpegX for my conversions. I've never looked at them on a large screen to see how well the video quality held on, but they look fine on my MacBook.
http://www.ffmpegx.com/
~Lyssa

Help with getting high quality DVDs from AVCHD footage

Hello,
I know enough about video editing with PE7 to be dangerous, and was hoping someone could help me out.
My question is regarding getting the highest quality standard DVD from AVCHD footage. I have a Sony HDR-SR12 camcorder recording in AVCHD. I am editing footage natively in AVCHD with PE7 on a quad core system. No problem with that. However, when I export to standard DVD the quality of the video goes down drastically. (Yes, I know burning to Blu-ray would give me higher quality, but I am giving this DVD to a friend who doesn't have Blu-ray).
So far I have tried starting my project in both HD 1080i 30 5.1 channel:
General
Editing mode: HDV 1080i
Timebase: 29.97 fps
Video Settings
Frame size: 1440h 1080v (1.333)
Frame rate: 29.97 frames/second
Pixel Aspect Ratio: HD Anamorphic 1080 (1.333)
and Full HD 1080i 30 5.1 channel:
General
Editing mode: HD 1080i
Timebase: 29.97 fps
Video Settings
Frame size: 1920h 1080v (1.000)
Frame rate: 29.97 frames/second
Pixel Aspect Ratio: Square Pixels (1.0)
But I see no discernable difference in the quality of my output onto DVD.
This is where my knowledge is lacking...how can I get the best quality output from my AVCHD onto a standard DVD? Is there some format I can convert to first, and then burn to DVD? Also, I am willing to break the footage into a couple of DVDs to improve the quality, but I don't know how or what to do for that.
My footage looks REALLY great when viewing from the HDR-SR12 direct to HD TV with HDMI cable, but not very good on the DVD. My footage is of a ballet recital, and I lose definition in the faces, costumes, etc on the DVD output.
Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
Gina

Hey Gina,
This may be a year late, but as I have been pulling my hair out trying to solve this problem for the last 48 hours I finally did find somewhat of a work around, but it requires Adobe PP CS4.2.
There is a plug-in here:
http://www.mainconcept.com/site/prosumer-products-4/mpeg-pro-hd-7850/features-7861.html
Which will actually output your edit as an AVCHD file. You can then burn this straight to an AVCHD using Nero 9 and keep the highquality level of your clips and not need Blu-Ray. The DVD player will need to be AVCHD capable, but I just bought one of those for $40 as compared to the $200+ of most Blu-Ray players.
Hope that helps.
Regards,
DSW

Switching to Win 7 kills High Quality Display Performance option?

I recently switched from Windows XP to Windows 7.
I am running CS2. The files I work with contain placed PDF pages in InDesign. I have verified all links are good.
The placed PDF pages contain some pages that are scans, and some containing live text.
I have the default settings for InDesign set to High Quality Display, and also verified with the contextual menu that it is on currently for the document.
Printing is fine, and export quality is fine. (Yep I restarted, an really familiar with this setting, and switched them all around while trying several times, I even cleared the object level display settings.)
When I was on XP I got a nice crisp preview, now there is no difference between "Typical Display" and "High Quality Display", not even a flicker as I switch settings. It definitely changes if I select "fast Display" to they gray boxes.
All my text from the placed pages, even the live text, is really jagged, even if you zoom in.
My graphics driver is up to date, I tried eliminating my page file, and also making it bigger. It is currently system managed at about 8000 MB.
I am on an HP Pro 3130, 2.93GHz, with 8 gigs of ram, and an ATI Radeon HD 4550 video card. I have the same monitors as before, an HP L1906 (dual, identical monitors) set at recommended resolution. I have tried it a 60 Hertz and at 75.
Old files that looked fine before and also new files all share this issue.
I am not sure what else to try.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!

CS2 is completely unsupported under Windows 7.
Additionally with 8 gigs of RAM I imagine (hope) that you're using the 64 bit versions. This is another fly in the ointment.
Sorry, but it's time to upgrade to CS5. And this is pretty much your last chance at upgrade pricing. CS2 is the earliest version eligible.
I suggest you take advantage of it now before you have to pay full price.
If you have the suite you must upgrade the entire suite. The best deal I know of is on Amazon where you can save $30 and get free shipping: http://amzn.to/byP8go
If you have the stand alone version the upgrade is just about the same price everywhere. $199. Just make sure you by from an authorized retailer.
Bob

How can I replace one low quality source with another high quality one ?

Am I really this dumb or is it really this hard ?
I have one timeline / project / edit that essentially references one long source clip / event / file.
I have a newer higher quality transcoded version of the same source and want to replace the original lower quality version and end up with the same edited result just with better quality images !?
It's the same frame rate and image dimensions but "relink" tells me the new file is not "similar" enough and won't do it !
Why is this so hard ? Is there a way to export a good old fashioned edl and then just reconform using the new source ?
What if I wanted to to replace low res offline footage with finished colour-corrected material and output a finished master - would that be this clueless as well ?
Please let me know the problem is between the chair and the keyboard - not between the hard disk and the power cord !

Guessing that when you created the higher quality media, it was done outside of FCP and probably changed some important metadata that the app is looking for. Or perhaps there is a difference between the original audio and the new audio.
Anyway, Luis' advice about the replace edit seems like the easiest solution.
a_mumford wrote:
What if I wanted to to replace low res offline footage with finished colour-corrected material and output a finished master - would that be this clueless as well?
The usual way to do offline online is within FCP – creating the proxies and then using Preferences to switch back to and from.
If you sent it out for grading, the Relink should work fine. If you haven't seen this kb doc, it's worth reviewing.
Russ

HT4356 How can I print a greyscale/fast document from my iPad wireless printer. It will print in color and high quality but want black and white

How can I print a greyscale/black and white document from my iPad wireless printer???
IT will print in COLOR and high quality print but would like to conserve ink (Esp. Coloured )
is there a way to reconfigure settings either on my iPad or the printer ??? Cannot find a setting
when u select print on the ipad it dos not allow you to change your settings before you print

There is no setting for this. You can request it here:
http://www.apple.com/feedback/

Higher quality mp3?

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