HT203254 Why Mac Book Pro 17 Inch has been removed from the Apple Stores?
while surfing the Apple web site, I found that Mac Book Pro 17 Inches has been removed from all the
stores......is there any fault or some thing wrong has been detected in it?
I heard a rumor that the 17" machines are all wearing cement shoes and at the bottom of the East River. Some guy named Soprano tipped me off.
We aren't supposed to talk about it.
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Ages ago, i bought a app called vdownloader+ which boasted a unlimited downloading fucntion, the app downloads off of youtube and saves the video to the app and makes it viewable offline with no internet connection, and can download off other compatible sites too. Now its disappeared off the app store, i have found out it cannot have unlimited downloads. Annoyed. Now, there is another app on the app store with a different logo, barely different may i add, and IDENITCAL interface. This person must of created both apps, and i'm not getting any responce off of either problem email addresses which where supplied with both apps. (I downloased the lite version of the new app called Video downloader lite -Vdownload. I need assistence filing a complaint and taking this extremly seriously as i got conned into buying an app.
Many thanks.
-Harryeast1You can contact iTunes support via this page : http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/contact/ - click on Contact iTunes Store Support on the right-hand side of the page
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i switch on my mac book pro and all i get is the apple logo and below a loading wheel , but its stuck there for like an hour !!! help??
Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. The easiest way to deal with the problem is to boot from an external drive, or else to use either of the techniques in Steps 1b and 1c to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 6.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 9
Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 10
Repeat Step 9, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 11
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a boot failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 12
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider. -
My Mac book pro won't re-start. The apple sign stays on for a while, that little circle keeps spinning and nothing happens. After 10 minutes rebooting the screen turned blue and nothing was on. now I just re-tried and lots of pixels came up. what should I do? Thanks anyone.
My Mac book pro won't re-start. The apple sign stays on for a while, that little circle keeps spinning and nothing happens. After 10 minutes rebooting the screen turned blue and nothing was on. now I just re-tried and lots of pixels came up. what should I do? Thanks anyone.
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I have a first generation MacBook Air that has been refurbished via the Apple store. I installed Snow Leopard about a year ago and now, my computer wont update! It will download the updates restart my computer, but then I get an error message and the computer wont restart!
What is a error message and what do you see when it appears?
Haven't much problem with Airs around here, since they have a SSD they tend to be more reliable.
Perhaps it was a bad update, have you ran through this list of possible fixes?
Do as many as possible, starting with #1. Until the problem is resolved.
Use the boot 10.6 USB instead of the disk of course.
Step by Step to fix your Mac -
Is there a way to get an app that has been deleted from the app store?
Is there a way to get an app that has been deleted from the app store?
Not unless the developer/Apple offer it again in the App store. You can only get apps from the App store.
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How do I upgrade from Logic 7 to Logic Studio? It seems to have been removed from the Online Store.
I have been told by the apple store that it is no longer available for purchase, and that I should search the app store, but I can't find it. Any ideas on where I can find the upgrade pack still? Thanks.
It would appear that the way to Upgrade is to Purchase Logic 9 from the Mac Apps Store...
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hi, my mac book pro computer stop working saddanly and now I am trying to on it but its not oning please help me
Troubleshooting: My computer won't turn on
BTW, this is the Mac Pro desktop forum -
HT1338 As soon as I switch on my Mac book Pro, I get a sound from the optical drive.Is it normal??
It is a 13" MAC book pro bought about a month back.
In addition to checking system preferences/sound/output and selecting built in if that does not work, make sure volume is up and mute not checked.
You can try the following, Take a set of headphones and plug theim in and out several times (there is a micro switch that sometimes gets stuck)
Go to applications>utilities>Audio MIDI set up, see if you can select built in there, make sure volume is uo mute not checked.
Try a NVRAM/PRAM reset:
Power off, power back on holding the following keys OPTION + COMMAND + P + R
Continue to hold these keys till you hear the start chime 2 times, then release,reboot -
My podcast has been pulled from the iTunes Store after 9 months!!
Hello, my podcast ( http://giuliuscaesar.podbean.com/feed ) has been pulled after 9 month from the iTunes store.
I made no changes and the bandwith and the feed are working ok. What happened? I was in the top 10 of the tech section in Italy for months, and i had all 5 stars reviews! I'm really worried, what can i do?
If i try to resubmit it first said that my session expired and now it said that the url was already submitted. I need it back online sicne it's part of my business!As far as I can see (not speaking Italian) your podcast doesn't have any of the sort of content which would get it removed (unacceptable or illegal content, copyright breach, and so on) so its removal is probably a mistake.
I'm sorry they've been unhelpful. Did you email them at [email protected] ? - they have shown a tendency to being fairly helpful recently, whereas if you tried iTunes Support I wouldn't expect you to get much sense out of them. If you didn't use that address, give it a try.
Otherwise your only option is to submit it again: you'll need to give it a new title (you can change it back once it's been accepted) and you should change the feed title so the UTRL is different, though that may be difficult with Podbean: you would probably need to start a new account there. -
I have over 1000 duplicates in both my files and in the Itunes library. The duplicate function appears to have been removed from teh latest version of Itunes. How do I identify and remove multiple duplicates from my library and my music file
The show duplicates/show exact duplicates features have been left out of iTunes 11.0. Rumor suggests they will be restored in the next build. In the meantime I have written two Windows scripts to make playlists of Duplicates and Exact Duplicates, either from a selection of tracks or the entire library. Note that, as with the iTunes feature, this list makes no distinction between "originals" and "dupes", you have to decide which is which.
There is also my DeDuper script for automatically removing duplicate copies but keeping one remaining copy of each set. This can preserve ratings, play counts, playlist membership, etc. which are lost in a manual clean up. Please take note of the warning to backup your library before deduping. See this thread for background on deduping and the script.
If you want to manually remove duplicate tracks use shift-delete to remove selected tracks from the library as well as the playlist. Keep one of each repeated group of files and don't send the others to the recycle bin unless you are sure that there are multiple files on the disc as opposed to multiple entries to the same file. Same advice to backup applies.
tt2 -
If my iPad is lost, how do I know when it has been removed from my Apple ID account?
I lost my son's iPad this afternoon. By the time I realized I couldn't find it and pulled out my phone to use the Find Phone My iPhone app, it may have been too late to set it up as lost. The iPad is still displaying in the app, but simply as offline. Of course, the iPad could be laying on the street somewhere, God only knows. However, if someone had reset the iPad and logged it into their own account, would it still display on my "Find My iPhone" account even if it were offline? Or, since they can reset it without being online, will it wait to refresh until they get it online? I am literally sick to my stomach, I just bought this 64 gig brand new mini two months ago for my autistic son, and he uses it daily. I cannot fathom the idea that it is not in the house, but if it were in the house, it would be connected to our Wifi automatically, and it would not be dead because I just charged it for him for our short trip today. How can I see if the seriel number is even still on my account? When I go into my account, it shows a white mini ipad, ours is black, and it does not show the same seriel number. HOWEVER, it does show that I called about the Mini on the 29th of October, so even though it is displaying as white with a randomly different seriel number, I did call about an issue on that device. Why would iTunes have a different mini seriel number set up under our account? If you cannot tell, I am freaking out. We're out $500 and I feel like there just has to be a way to get our iPad back. (Just for all of you KARMA beleivers out there: About a year and a few months ago, I was at the pool with my son and found a Kindle Fire. I immediately went through to find the owners information and contacted her to return it! There has to be good Karma for me in this situation!! ;-) ) Please, help me determine if the iPad is still connected to my account! Anything! Thanks!
I think you may need to book an appointment with a genius! They will fix it or replace it for you, for free!!! You can book an appointment at your local apple store at http://www.apple.com/retail
Hope this helps
Conchuir -
I can't remove a bookmark of a form that has been removed from the original database it was on.
Local county website removed a form students use and placed it in another location of its website. I had the form bookmarked in its old location. Now I can't remove the bookmark for the form at its old location. Also, I'm not sure if the old/new location has anything to do with my inability to remove or delete that bookmark.
Would you check the Bookmarks sidebar, and look for there in your groupings, and also do a search on it there. From the location bar use and internal search by not hitting "Enter" and include a space delimited asterisk ("*") to restrict to bookmarks.
The Bookmarks Menu (menu) often lags behind, especially when you have lots of changes.
I don't use the Bookmarks *menu* to look for bookmarks. I like the organization and faster scrolling of the bookmarks sidebar.
Restarting Firefox will probably fix the Bookmarks *menu*
If you want to play with it you can try these, but I don't make a lot of bookmark changes in a session that it would bother me that much.
* creating a bookmarks backup and then restore it via Bookmarks Library List ("Ctrl+Shift+B") > Import and Backup > Backup --- then restore that backup.
* http://kb.mozillazine.org/Corrupt_localstore.rdf -
Need to know if I'll be able to transfer files from old to new machine without issues please.
I apologize for the formatting, but I haven't yet converted this to the new formats used in the new forums.
A Basic Guide for Migrating to Intel-Macs
The Knowledgebase article <a href="http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1963?viewlocale=en_US">Intel-based Mac: Some migrated applications may need to be updated</a> refers to methods of dealing with migrating from PowerPC chips to Intel with the Migration Assistant safely. The authors of this tip have not had a chance to verify this works in all instances, or that it avoids the 10.6.1 and earlier Guest Account bug that caused account information to get deleted upon use of the Migration/Setup Assistant. However, a well backed up source that includes at least two backups of all the data that are not connected to your machine will help you avoid potential issues, should they arise. In event it does not work, follow the steps below.
If you are migrating a PowerPC system (G3, G4, or G5) to an Intel-Mac be careful what you migrate. Keep in mind that some items that may get transferred will not work on Intel machines and may end up causing your computer's operating system to malfunction.
Rosetta supports "software that runs on the PowerPC G3, G4, or G5 processor that are built for Mac OS X". This excludes the items that are not universal binaries or simply will not work in Rosetta:
>Classic Environment, and subsequently any Mac OS 9 or earlier applications
>Screensavers written for the PowerPC
>System Preference add-ons
>All Unsanity Haxies
>Browser and other plug-ins
>Contextual Menu Items
>Applications which specifically require the PowerPC G5
>Kernel extensions
>Java applications with JNI (PowerPC) libraries</li>
See also <a href="http://developer.apple.com/documentation/MacOSX/Conceptual/universal_binary/univ ersal_binary_exec_a/chapter_950_section_1.html#//apple_ref/doc/uid/TP40002217-CH 210-TPXREF101">What Can Be Translated by Rosetta</a>.
In addition to the above you could also have problems with migrated cache files and/or cache files containing code that is incompatible.
If you migrate a user folder that contains any of these items, you may find that your Intel-Mac is malfunctioning. It would be wise to take care when migrating your systems from a PowerPC platform to an Intel-Mac platform to assure that you do not migrate these incompatible items.
If you have problems with applications not working, then completely uninstall said application and reinstall it from scratch. Take great care with Java applications and Java-based Peer-to-Peer applications. Many Java apps will not work on Intel-Macs as they are currently compiled. As of this time Limewire, Cabos, and Acquisition are available as universal binaries. Do not install browser plug-ins such as Flash or Shockwave from downloaded installers unless they are universal binaries. The version of OS X installed on your Intel-Mac comes with special compatible versions of Flash and Shockwave plug-ins for use with your browser.
The same problem will exist for any hardware drivers such as mouse software unless the drivers have been compiled as universal binaries. For third-party mice the current choices are USB Overdrive or SteerMouse. Contact the developer or manufacturer of your third-party mouse software to find out when a universal binary version will be available.
Also be careful with some backup utilities and third-party disk repair utilities. Disk Warrior 4.1, TechTool Pro 4.6.1, SuperDuper 2.5, and Drive Genius 2.0.2 work properly on Intel-Macs with Leopard. The same caution may apply to the many "maintenance" utilities that have not yet been converted to universal binaries. Leopard Cache Cleaner, Onyx, TinkerTool System, and Cocktail are now compatible with Leopard.
Before migrating or installing software on your Intel-Mac check <a href="http://www.macfixit.com/article.php?story=20060126094146180">MacFixit's Rosetta Compatibility Index</a>.
<b>Additional links that will be helpful to new Intel-Mac users</b>:
<a href="http://www.apple.com/intel/">Intel In Macs</a>
<a href="http://guide.apple.com/universal/">Apple Guide to Universal Applications</a>
<a href="http://www.macintouch.com/imacintel/ubinaries.html">MacInTouch List of Compatible Universal Binaries</a>
<a href="http://www.macintouch.com/imacintel/rosettacompat.html">MacInTouch List of Rosetta Compatible Applications</a>
<a href="http://www.macupdate.com/macintel.php">MacUpdate List of Intel-Compatible Software</a>
<a href="http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=25773">Transferring data with Setup Assistant - Migration Assistant FAQ</a>
Because Migration Assistant isn't the ideal way to migrate from PowerPC to Intel Macs, using Target Disk Mode, copying the critical contents to CD and DVD, an external hard drive, or networking
will work better when moving from PowerPC to Intel Macs. The initial section below discusses Target Disk Mode. It is then followed by a section which discusses networking with Macs that lack Firewire.
<b>If both computers support the use of Firewire then you can use the following instructions</b>:
1. Repair the hard drive and permissions using Disk Utility.
2. Backup your data. This is vitally important in case you make a mistake or there's some other problem.
3. Connect a Firewire cable between your old Mac and your new Intel Mac.
4. Startup your old Mac in Target Disk Mode.
5. Startup your new Mac for the first time, go through the setup and registration screens, but do NOT migrate data over. Get to your desktop on the new Mac without migrating any new data over.
<b>If you are not able to use a Firewire connection (for example you have a Late 2008 MacBook that only supports USB:)</b>
1. Set up a local home network: <a href="http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1433">Creating a small Ethernet Network</a>.
2. If you have a MacBook Air or Late 2008 MacBook see the following:
><a href="http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3231">MacBook (13-inch, Aluminum, Late 2008) and MacBook Pro (15-inch, Late 2008)- Migration Tips and Tricks</a>;
><a href="http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3224">MacBook (13-inch, Aluminum, Late 2008) and MacBook Pro (15-inch, Late 2008)- What to do if migration is unsuccessful</a>;
><a href="http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1896">MacBook Air- Migration Tips and Tricks</a>;
><a href="http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1340">MacBook Air- Remote Disc, Migration, or Remote Install Mac OS X and wireless 802.11n networks</a>.
Copy the following items from your old Mac to the new Mac:
>In your /Home/ folder: Documents, Movies, Music, Pictures, and Sites folders.
>
>In your /Home/Library/ folder:
>/Home/Library/Application Support/AddressBook (copy the whole folder)
>/Home/Library/Application Support/iCal (copy the whole folder)
>Also in /Home/Library/Application Support (copy whatever else you need including folders for any third-party applications)
>
>/Home/Library/Keychains (copy the whole folder)
>/Home/Library/Mail (copy the whole folder)
>/Home/Library/Preferences/ (copy the whole folder)
>/Home /Library/Calendars (copy the whole folder)
>/Home /Library/iTunes (copy the whole folder)
>/Home /Library/Safari (copy the whole folder)
>
>If you want cookies:
>
>/Home/Library/Cookies/Cookies.plist
>/Home/Library/Application Support/WebFoundation/HTTPCookies.plist
>
>For Entourage users:
>
>Entourage is in /Home/Documents/Microsoft User Data
>Also in /Home/Library/Preferences/Microsoft
>
><i>Credit goes to Macjack for this information.</i>
If you need to transfer data for other applications please ask the vendor or ask in the Discussions where specific applications store their data.
5. Once you have transferred what you need restart the new Mac and test to make sure the contents are there for each of the applications.
<i>Written by Kappy with additional contributions from a brody.</i>
<i>Revised 1/6/2009</i> -
My current project is like many I have created in the past. I have removed the sound from my video clips and laid another soundtrack under the entire project. Now, when I add an iphoto still image to the project, when it goes back into video there is a popping sound. I've never had this happen in the past and have made many projects in the past just like this one. Any way to troubleshoot this issue? Thanks so much for your help.
BenWhat audio output are you using? What mac and version iMovie
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