HT4557 whats the best itunes/appleID setup for family of 3 with 3 ipads, 3 iphones, one PC with all music on. if we use 3 separate ones how do we share purchased and home content?

been with apple for years. one itunes/appleID in use for family - all purchases and downloads on the one account..
now got 3 ipads, 3 iphones and when we update the software, we seem to get text/facetime issues due to multiple email addresses and phone numbers for the different devices that each individual uses. For example, I send a text and it appears to have come from my wife or son to the recipient. Not good !
there seems to be direction from apple that each of us should use our own apple id, thogh how do I link the accounts so enable family sharing of music/media we have purchased etc - Id also like to be able to review and keep a private eye on what my son downloads as he is 11 yrs old ! I manage this currently as we allow him access to the password for itunes (as we all use the same id today)
Am i better setting up accounts for my wife and son independent of my own, or not. Each of us would like access to the family content we have and the master library of synced content. I just want the most simplistic approach that apple, or others would recommend.
Is there a better or optimum setup for a family as we cannot be alone.....

Thanks for the help, but a follow up question now.
My iPhone won't arrive for a little while, but my wife already got hers and she wants to set it up now. Using my Apple ID for the purchases, if she starts setting hers up, can she change her iCloud ID to something else quickly? It keeps telling us that we have to sign in with the AppleID first.
Should we just set up an iCloud account via normal internet before trying all this via iPhone?

Similar Messages

Whats the best external drive setup for FCP and accompanying software?

With all the external Hard Drives out there I am hoping that other users could suggest the best options when setting up FCP to work with an external drive. I am working with both SD and HD and am planning to use DVD Studio, Soundtrack Pro along with Motion and AE.
With all the info out there claiming to be the 'best' it gets a little confusing. I bought a 2T WD HD with Firewire 400, 800 and eSATA connections. With the amount of footage I have to capture this wont last long. And the intention is to archive this footage and making it easy to access in a year or two.
Which is best type of connection? Firewire 800 or eSata? Any Suggestions as to a really good external hard drive set up that I can add to as finances allow?

Not quite sure what this question has to do with Qmaster, but what the heck.
The simple response is get the fastest and biggest external you can. If you are getting a drive mechanism without swappable disks, purchase 2 mechanisms - 1 for use when editing and the second for backing up. Purchase a 3rd drive to back up your system drive.
If you go the swapable drive bay route, you'll pay more for the mechanism but you'll recoup the cost as you can purchase additional bare drives for a fraction of the cost of another whole mechanism.
The fastest connection speed is esata then FW800 then FW400. USB is not appropriate to editing video (but can be used for simple backups).
If you have the resources, something like a Caldigit HDOne is a high performer. If that's out of your range, look into their VR line or something from MacBurley. Granite Digitial also makes good basic devices.
Have fun.
x

What's the best iTunes import setting for highest quality and universality?

What's the best iTunes import setting for highest quality and universality?

Highest quality?
Apple Lossless. (But the files are way big)
Universality?
MP3 (choose the bit rate you think sounds best and doesn't take too much space)

What is the best iTunes Equalizer settings for Bose QC15 Headphones?

What is the best iTunes Equalizer settings for the Bose QC15 Headphones? An image of those settings would be great.

I'm a bit of an audio geek, so I can tell you that YES whatever sounds right is what you want, but NO those settings are not very good. The general setting is "OK" but the values are extremely out of range. Take that setting and reduce the distance between the sliders and you're getting there. Look for example at how the other iTunes presets are made, the don't go that far from the horizontal middle, and for good reason.
When you play a recorded song, the song has usually been put through an extensive process of mixing, EQ and mastering before you got it, in order to get the best balance of all frequencies, to ensure the best sound accross a wide range of speakers and headphones, and to ensure the most important details and instruments are audible when played together.
All speakers are different, and that's where the idea of an EQ for the listener is introduced. The idea is to tweak the overall sound from your music player (iTunes) to compensate for the strengths and weaknesses of your speakers. Which to be honest, is a bit much to expect form a typical music consumer.
The iTunes EQ has a set of horizontal lines representing 3dB (volume steps) each. In my experience you should not boost or cut more than 6 db at the most - and that's a lot! I stay at around 0-4dB. The extreme options are there to cut noise from bad recordings or emphasize a detail you can't hear very well.
So here's basic EQ lesson:
The EQ represents the range frequencies in sound that the human ear can hear. Actually they go beyond that - most people cannot hear the far left and right frequencies. The range of frequencis start at "deep" or "low" frequencies at the left (bass) passing through the Midrange (midtones) in the center, to the (treble) at the right.
Your speaker has a limit to how many frequencies it can play at once before it starts to lose detail - meaning one sound will drown out in order to make room for another. So don't over-EQ your sound or it'll ruin it.
How to tweak an EQ:
1) Start by playing a well-produced piece of modern music - it'll most likely be well mixed and employ a wide range of frequencies. I'm into heavy metal but for this I'd probably go with some average pop music, because metal is so noisy it gets hard to pick out the details.
2) Set you EQ to FLAT - zero all accross the board. It'll sound pretty flat and boring unless your speakers are very "flavoured" or "colored" already.
Sliding any of the EQ bar up, will increase or boost the volume of the frequency the bar represents. You can't really add frequencies that aren't there already - you're just adding noise in that freqeuncy and that will "fill up" the available frequencies on your speaker, causing that "drowned out" effect I was talking about.
Instead, slide them down from the center, and you're cutting the volume instead. This is better because it'll leave more "room" for the other frequencies. You can always use the Preamp slider at the end if you're worried about loudness (but I wouldn't).
3) Start by tweaking the 500 and 1K slider. This represents the middle of your ears' range of hearing and the most noticable change. It should most likely go downwards - this will take the "canned" sound out of your music and that'll be apparent quickly. Go ahead and slide that down as far as -6dB.
4) Now work outwards from the center forming a "v" shape, where the top tips of the V end at the 64 slider and the 8k slider. The very far left and right sliders (32 and 16K) should dip down again to about 0bB. Trust me, these are almost non-important in most music. You can tweak thos last if you feel it's needed.
5) now it's time to start playing round with the V shape. Go ahead and try sliding the sliders a little up or down between 125-250 and 1K to 4K. You may find that some need to move a lot out of the average "V" shape before the sound is good. This is what my iTunes EQ settings ended up looking like for my Motörheadphones "Motorizer" headphones:
Hope it helps.

Whats the best alternative to idvd for burning a disk with pics to play in a dvd player?

Whats the best alternative to idvd for burning a disk with pics to play in a dvd player? I don't want to deal with older versions of ilife.

Whats the best alternative to idvd for burning a disk
In my opinion, there are none.
Yes, there are other programs that will put a movie on a DVD. I have tried most of the other substitutes including Toast, Burn, DVD Creator, Wondershare, and others. None of them come anywhere near the ease-of-use and power of iDVD.
IDVD is a wonderful piece of software and well worth the low cost of $40.
http://www.amazon.com/Apple-MC623Z-A-iLife-VERSION/dp/B003XKRZES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=U
http://dealmac.com/lw/artclick.html?1,527850,1872219

Whats the best quiz maker software for macbrook pro????

whats the best quiz maker software for macbrook pro????

Why not google, "quiz maker software for mac os" and see what out there? Then test the ones that seem to you to be what interests you and have the features you want.

Whats the best heart rate transmitter for ipod nano 7th gen?

Whats the best heart rate transmitter for ipod nano 7th gen:
Polar WearLink+ Transmitter Nike+
Polar H7 heart rate sensor
Wahoo Fitness Blue HR
Adidas miCoach heart rate monitor

Calibrate your ipod by charging fully, then using it until it drains then charging it again. And resetting might help too.

Whats the best tv to get for apple tv?

What's the best TV to get for the apple TV's ?

Most should work, the pre-requisites would be an HDMI socket supporting HDCP and 720p or 1080p capability.
There are too many variables such as screen size, styling, plasma vs LCD etc, cost and other fancy features on modern TVs - you may want a basic no frills display with good picture quality or a bells and whistles SmartTV.
AC

What's the best FCP6 easy setup for HD shot on Canon XHA1?

Hi, I'm sorry to ask such a novice question, but I want to make sure I'm starting correctly. Anyone have advice on the best easy setup to use for a project that will be predominantly footage shot in HD at 30P on the Canon XH-A1? It will also include a little bit of HD footage shot through a Canon 5D markii, but I think I understand how to bring those clips in later using log and transfer and the appropriate Canon EOS codec deal.
I'm just still not sure of the difference between HDV, DVCPRO HD, and all those other easy presets that are listed out...
thanks much!
-Sarah

I tried to search through other threads before posting my question, but I guess I didn't come across yours.
It was in response to your other question on the forums... So it was an answer directly to you.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2486111&tstart=0
As for your other question, that I also answered...use the camera if you want to shoot 30F or 24F, or shoot 60i and use the deck. Those are your choices. There is no deck that deals with Canon's F format...and they don't make decks. Silly stupid.
Shane

What's the best mac configuration setup for Logic?

I think that I didn't configure my Mac good enough to work with Logic and I hear that there is a special configuration that should be used to have everhything work together as best as possible in terems of memory use etc. But what are the best settings? And where do i configure them?

Are you talking about within logic or the actual system?
as far as logic is concerned, the preferences / audio tab will offer you most of the controls to optimize logic for your system.
as far as the actual mac, the best would obviously be a 12 core mac pro, speced till it would spec no more LOL.
but a I5 imac and that much ram is still a reasonable beast in the home studio stakes.
the best way to use all the RAM is to run logic in 64 bit,
find logics icon in the finder, and either right/ctrl click and click get info or press cmd-I.
this will bring up the get info dialog, and uncheck run in 32bit.
hey presto, logic can get to 16gb of RAM (in theory).

Whats the best file output spec for a file output i.e rather than an AVCHD disc

I have been making travel videos for many years and in all the formats available at the time at the time. I moved from analogue to digital and latterly HD video (1080x1920) via Panasonic HDC-SD600 camcorder. Using software I created AVCHD Discs and played them on my Blu Rayer Player. However I now realise that the discs can degrade? and start to stick on playback. So I moved on to creating Video Files that I can transfer to my flash drive to feed directly to my HD tv. In previous software I took the option MP4 HD and I had no problem. However the software did start giving an unrelated problem and I changed to Adobe Premiere Elements 12. But the MP4 HD option offered in Publish and Share when transferred to Flash Drive will not play on TV (No Movies Found). Could it be that I reformatted the flash drive to NTFS to allow greater tha 4G?. I have scanned various adobe forums and tutorials but not luckly enough to find one that explains the best outputs for this type of use
Can you help. I am slightly knowledgeable about codecs and containers.

Bill,
Finally solved my problem. It turned out to be the Flash Drive! I realised this was at fault when the TV stopped seeing any files irrespective of format. I re-formatted the drive back to FAT 32. I then used a ten minute video and with PE12 Publish and Share options created 6 files with different formats. 2 of these played back perfectly. I then went and done some homework and read up on Frames and Refresh rates and how PAL and NTSC still matters in this digital age. I finally opted for the AVCHD option of MP4 H264 1920x1080p at 25fps. Which I believe is correct for PAL countries.
My TV has 100hz refresh rate so that means at 25fps each frame is repeated 4 times every 25th of a second. Forgetting all the Tech when I watched the video I found it really good and that decides it for me!
It does leave me with something to live with however, I am apparently stuck with the 4 gigabyte barrier of FAT 32. However this gives about 30 minutes of HD video so I may have to opt for Video part one and Video part two for longer videos. I will re check the spec of my TV just to ensure the USB inputs are definately restricted to FAT 32.
I am now thinking about DNLA as another means of playing a video file from computer to TV. But this new to me so it looks like more homework.
Any tips or help will be welcome
Jack

Hi.. i've got problem with my iPhone 4s gsm factory unlocked it won't connect to a wifi. i tried to hold power and home button even reset the network setting but ended with i am not able even to turn the wifi on. does any body can help me out???

hi..
i've got problem with my iphone 4s gsm factory unlocked it won't connect to a wifi. i tried to hold the power and home button even reset the network setting but ended with i am not even can turn the wifi on. does any body can helpme?

See this: http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1559
If you carefully follow all of the instructions in this tip and none of them restore WiFi then your radio chip has failed and you need to get the phone replaced by Apple.

I have an airport extreme for my main internet connection, an express to listen to music on my home theatre, another express to extend the network upstairs, and one more express for my wireless printer. whats the best way to setup the express stations?

So basically I would like to know if its best to have them setup on "join a wireless network" or "extend a wireless network"
Obviously the one I use to extend the network is setup that way, the other 2 are set on "join a network"
is this the optimal configuration? or should I have them all on "extend a wireless network" ?

There is really no "best" setting here for the AirPort Express devices. If you need more wireless coverage in the area where an Express is located, then it makes sense to configure the Express to "extend" a wireless network.
If you already have good coverage in an area where an Express is located, then the "join" configuration makes sense.
I've yet to meet the first user who felt that he/she had too much wireless signal coverage in their home, but you never know.

What Is the Best Raid Array Setup for Photoshop?

I'm considering going to a Raid Array both at the Scractch Disk Level 2X Solid State 90GB Drives, and also at the stroage level 3X Hitachi 2TB HDD.
Which Raid Array setups should I use for each?

Something to consider:
An advantage of RAID 0 is that you get all the space of both drives, while multiplying the throughput.
While RAID 0 also multiplies the possibility of failure, you can offset that by buying high-MTBF enterprise class drives. The Western Digital RE4 is an example (and is the model I use in my RAID). Such drives are not really that much more expensive than their consumer-grade counterparts, and the difference is well worth it, IMO.
Do good backups - e.g., to a large external USB drive (e.g., Western Digital MyBook), and you'll be covered against loss of the entire array.
-Noel

Whats the best bluetooth car kit for iphone4?

I am looking for a Bluetooth car Kit that will go with an iphone4.

As you don't mention the rather important info on where you are in the world (this is a WW forum )
This is a favourite in UK which I know many have fitted in Z4s
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Parrot-CK3100-Advanced-Bluetooth-Car/dp/B000621SN0
This will give you an idea iof what is available f you are somewhere else
There are other makes but I know Z4 owners who are very happy with this type of set up

HT4557 whats the best itunes/appleID setup for family of 3 with 3 ipads, 3 iphones, one PC with all music on. if we use 3 separate ones how do we share purchased and home content?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for