I have no sound on my macbook pro. It only shows Apple TV/Airplay on devices to chose. My internal speaker option has vanished
I have no sound on my Macbook pro. My devices options shows only Apple Tv/Airplay. My internal speakers option has vanished
Which model MacBook Pro do you have (e.g., "15-inch Late 2011") and which version of OS X are you running?
Clinton
MacBook Pro (15-inch Late 2011), OS Mavericks 10.9.4, 16GB RAM, 960GB SSD, 27” Apple Thunderbolt Display
Similar Messages
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My sound will only work when I plug in headphones in the jack. When I take them out, the volume button is on mute. When I go into the sound preference it says Digital Out for the output. Sometimes I get a red light when the headphone jack is at. I have tried blowing in it and have put the jack in and taken it out numerous times to see if it will reset. Nothing. Any suggestions on what to do next?
Go step by step and test.
1.Plug in and remove the headphone.
If you see red light in the headphone port, plug the headphone
in and out of the port 5 or 6 times to flip the microswitch inside.
Sound output may be stuck in the digital mode.
2. Reset PRAM. http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14222
Do this twice
3. Reset SMC. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Choose the method for: "Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".
Best. -
Can I have an iPhone, ipad and MacBook Pro with the same apple id
Can I have an iPhone, ipad and MacBook Pro with the same apple id. When I use I tunes it get confusing and I have a paid app that needs the same id
When syncing the iPhone and iPad with iTunes on your computer that is logged in with the Apple ID you plan on using on all three, the Apple ID should be transferred to the iPhone and iPad for the iTunes & App Stores on each device. If not, you'll need to sign out of the existing Apple ID on the iPhone and iPad followed by signing in with the Apple ID you want to use on both.
Keep in mind that all 3rd party apps include DRM protection which is tied to the iTunes account or Apple ID that was used to download the apps. With an app installed on your iPad and iPhone that was downloaded with a different Apple ID from the one you will be using now, you will need to use that Apple ID and password to install app updates for those apps. Not possible to transfer apps purchased with one Apple ID to another or to merge Apple IDs. -
I just enabled iTunes Match on multiple devices in my house. At first, almost all the playlists were duplicated. I manually deleted the playlists back to one entry per playlist...a real pain. I could see changes made on one device updating on the other devices for almost all my playlists...which told me things were working correctly. But....There are a couple of playlists on my Macbook Pro that won't update to my other devices, like my desktop. What gives?
You can sign in on multiple devices to use iTunes Match but it must be with the exact same Apple ID you used to purchase the service. You will need to sign out of the existing ID on the devcies and sign in with the new one.
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I am trying to transfer data from my MacBook Air 2011 to a "new" MacBook Pro 2013. Both are running Yosemite 10.10.2. Since Migration Assistant WOULD NOT WORK (the MacBook Air couldn't "see" the MacBook Pro), using my WiFi network, I transferred the necessary data to a 500GB drive and THEN to the MacBook Pro. However, two programs didn't transfer well - or at all! iTunes only transferred the Music (Media?) files, but not iTunes U, Podcasts, Audiobooks, etc. I have had to drill down into the storage files, retrieve the non-transferred files and add them, one by one - a most laborious task. But, this is nothing compared to the problem with iPhoto (9.6), which shows only 6 events and 4 Faces transferred, with the rest only place holders (black boxes and grey dotted squares) in all the folders in my iPhoto.
I "Showed Package Contents," and found the missing files - of which there are many! - and started adding them, again, one by one.
Can anyone tell me what happened to my iPhoto (Yosemite 10.10.2)? It's fine on my MacBook Air, but simply WON'T TRANSFER to my MacBook Pro?
PLEASE - someone tell me how to CORRECTLY transfer my iPhoto files and/or HOW TO MAKE THE MACBOOK AIR "SEE" THE MACBOOK PRO in Migration Assistant?Hello Mary,
Sorry to hear that you are having issues with moving your data over to your new Mac. There are a few alternatives that you can do to migrate that data if you are not seeing it in Migration Assistant. The first is make a Time Machine back up to that 500 Gb external hard drive and then use that in Migration Assistant to copy the entire data over. If you do that you will want to remove any data that you have on your MacBook Pro after the transfer completes as it will create another user with the data from the MacBook Air. Another option is to use a Thunderbolt Cable that you can purchase online if you want and use the option from another disk to copy that over. Take a look at the articles below for more details.
Mac Basics: Time Machine backs up your Mac
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201250
Move your data to a new Mac
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204350
Apple Thunderbolt Cable (2.0 m) - White
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MD861ZM/A/apple-thunderbolt-cable-20-m
Regards,
-Norm G. -
I am getting no sound on my macbook pro. The sound does not play when I plug in headphones either. I have tried making it louder quieter, restarting my computer, HELP!
There are many possible causes for this issue. Take each of the following steps that you haven't already tried.
1. Start with the steps recommended in this support article. Don't skip any of the steps. It's the starting point for further efforts to solve the problem.
2. If your model has an audio-out (headphone) port, and anything is plugged in, unplug it before putting the system to sleep.
3. If you've installed something called "Memory Clean" or any other third-party software that is supposed to "clean" or "purge" memory automatically, remove it according to the developer's instructions and reboot. You should do that even if the software is not causing the problem, because it's useless.
4. If you've installed an equalizer called "Boom" or anything similar, update or delete it and reboot.
5. If an AirPlay device is selected for sound output from iTunes (or from other applications via third-party software such as "Airfoil"), deselect it.
6. Launch the application "Audio MIDI Setup" by entering the first few letters of its name in a Spotlight search and selecting it in the results (it should be at the top.) Select the Output tab. If the Mute boxes are checked, uncheck them. Move the Volume sliders all the way to the right.
7. If a red light is coming from the audio-out port, the internal switch is stuck in the position for digital output. You may be able to free it by inserting and removing a mini-stereo jack of the proper size. Inserting any kind of tool in the port may cause damage that won't be covered by your warranty.
If there's no red light, the switch may still be stuck in the headphone position. Try to free it the same way.
8. Disconnect all wired peripherals except keyboard and mouse, if applicable. If more than one display is connected, disconnect all extra ones. Reboot and test.
9. Boot in safe mode. Don't log in; just reboot as usual when the login screen appears. When you do, make sure the words "Safe Boot" do not appear in the login screen. If they do, the system is still in safe mode and sound won't work.
10. Reset the NVRAM.
11. Reset the SMC.
12. Reinstall OS X after backing up all data. For a possible shortcut, see this thread.
13. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store. -
I can hear a loud 'CD spinning/fan like' sound from my MacBook Pro intermittently. Definitely not the audio as i muted it. No CD either. And the only programs running are words, safari and mail.
It sounds like the fan but this is the first time I hear it in the past 6mths using this Mac. If its the fan, shouldn't the sound be there all the time and not intermittent?
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The sound on my macbook pro is not working
The sound on my macbook pro is not working. When I increase the sound, the icon appears as if everything is working, but no sound comes from the speakers. Earphones don't work either. I have tried a PRAM reset but at times, this doesn't even work. It's really frustrating having to restart my computer every time I want the sound to work, and even when I do that, theres a 50 50 chance of it working again. It generally happens after my laptop goes to sleep and I wake it up. Has anyone else had this problem and fixed it or even know what caused it?
There are a lot of discussions around the earphone jack but I have checked that. I've tried a PRAM reset which hasn't worked, and my sound output is set to Internal speakers.
HELP!!Hopefully one of these steps should solve the problem.
1. System Preference > Sound > Output > Internal Speakers
Highlight Internal Speakers / Headphones
Make sure Mute is not enabled.
2. Remove the headphone.
If you see red light in the headphone port, plug the headphone
in and out of the port 5 or 6 times to flip the microswitch inside.
Sound output may be stuck in the digital mode.
3. Reset SMC. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Choose the method for:
"Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".
4. Applications > Utilities > Audio MIDI Setup
Audio Devices window
Side Bar
Click the Built-in Output.
Under Mute any of the boxes checked? If so, uncheck it. -
How do i stop the chiming sound on my macbook pro?
There's an annoying chiming sound on my Macbook Pro that goes off sporadically when I have the volume turned up and I have no idea how to turn it off. I'd like to make it go away. Any answers would be appreciated.
Thanks.Check the iCal app to make sure you don't have a periodic event set up to go off every so often.
Or check the Date & Time preference pane in System Preferences to make sure the clock isn't set to chime on the hour. -
have a problem with my MacBook Pro.5,3 and monitor. Intermittently, the desk top screen becomes broken up into vertical sections, which appear in the wrong order, creating a haphazard picture.
The Apple icon, usually at top left corner, appears in top right corner in a strip including all that left hand. When the computer is restarted, the screen goes back to normal. But I have to move the mouse to the far left of the screen and then up until it reappears on the far right hand side of the screen so that I can hit shut down button.
It seems to happen randomly though always on desk top and sometimes when I move mouse and computer switches on from rest mode. My large flat screen is relatively new.
The video card on this computer, which is approximately two years old, is Nvidia FeForce 9400M.
Any help would be welcome as my usual source of assistance is not available and I am not well versed in workings of the Mac although I have used one for many years.That sounds like a Hardware problem.
You may be able to confirm that with Apple Hardware Test, or make an appointmenst for a free Genius Bar evaluation. -
I can't get sound on my MacBook Pro
I can't get any sound from my MacBook pro. I have checked setting and volume is at full sound
Have you gone to settings > sound to make sure your built-in speakers are selected? That would be my first guess for troubleshooting.
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The sound on my Macbook Pro does not work.
The sound on my Macbook Pro does not work. When we press the volume buttons, the sound icon pops up, but the bar is full with a small "Does not work" circle below it, and nothing happens when I hit volume up or done. I went into system preferences, but there aren't any options there that I can see to change it.
"Unfortunately, it doesn't provide any help for a MacBook Pro, other than indicating to call Apple Support" (sic).
Au contraire. TS1574's title and affected products are thusly:
"Troubleshooting issues with no audio from built-in speakers on Macs
Products Affected Mac mini, MacBook, MacBook Pro, iMac"
As a result, the instructions of the article are relevant. To be sure, follow those steps, the last of which is to contact Apple.
So, by way of reminder, here are the steps to troubleshoot the audio on your MacBook Pro. There is no red light, so the port is likely fine. Headphones work, so clearly your sound card is fine.
1. Ensure an incorrect version of OS X is not installed. If one is, then reinstall or erase/install after backing up your data.
2. Remove any external audio devices from USB, firewire, etc.
3. Open Sys Prefs > Sound > Output
If Internal Speakers is listed, select it and test again.
If Digital Out is listed, confirm again that all external audio devices and cables have been removed.
If mute is selected, unselect it.
If the volume slider is low, raise the volume.
If the above simply doesn't fix it, the issue may be a corrupted plist. Apple Support might be able to help troubleshoot the issue further, per the last step of TS1574.
I hope it gets resolved for you. Good luck. -
I have a 3 year old MacBook Pro with MAC OSX 10.6.8, iPhoto ’09 version 8.1.2 and have downloaded two software programs: one is Aperture 3.2 and the other is Photoshop Elements 9 (which I got from a friend who didn’t need it).
I am totally happy with the way iPhoto organizes my photos and how I can work with iMovie to create slide shows with music from iTunes, etc.
I have been shooting mostly high resolution jpegs and I continue to learn more and more about photography, post processing etc. I realize that the small adjustments I can make in iPhoto are good, and are adequate most of the time. However, a have started to experiment with shooting RAW images and would like to go the next step, ie. post processing.I am totally technically challenged and need SIMPLE, INTUITIVE programs and am certainly NOT anywhere ready for Photoshop CS whatever!
After having these programs sit on my computer, I decided to try to see if I could figure them out. When I opened Aperture, this is what first comes up.
“Welcome to Aperture 3.2
Your library needs to be upgraded to work with this version of Aperture. Once upgraded, you will not be able to use this library with previous versions of Aperture.
Upgrading a library from previous versions of Aperture 3 generally takes a few minutes or less, though larger libraries will take longer. After that, Aperture 3.2 will upgrade your library's thumbnails, but you can use the application during that time.
Tip: To open a different library, quit Aperture and hold the Option key down while starting Aperture
Current Library Location:
Jadzia (home) -----Pictures------Aperture Library
QUIT UPGRADE”
I have heard horror stories about moving your entire library to Aperture, ending up with 2 libraries, etc. etc. hence my previous reluctance in attempting Aperture. In addition, many of my photography friends are saying: Go with Lightroom 3.....you’ll love it!
So here is my dilemma. I don’t want to mess around with my iPhoto library. All I want to be able to do, is to isolate a few photos, export them to Aperture, Elements, and work on them there, then bring them back into iPhoto.
Can I do this? Should I forget about Aperture and Elements and look at purchasing yet another program like Lightroom?Export those few photos via the File ➙ Export ➙ File Export menu option with Kind = Original to the Desktop. Then import them into the Aperture library. That would keep one copy in your iPhoto library and another in your Aperture library to edit, etc.
You can use Photoshop Elements 9 from within iPhoto as your editor of choice. However, if you edit a raw file in iPhoto with PSE9 the resulting edited version must be saved outside the iPhoto Library and imported back in as a new file. For editing jpegs just do a Save (not a Save As) and it all will be kept within iPhoto.
Using Photoshop or Photoshop Elements as Your Editor of Choice in iPhoto.
1 - select Photoshop or Photoshop Elememts as your editor of choice in iPhoto's General Preference Section's under the "Edit photo:" menu.
2 - double click on the thumbnail in iPhoto to open it in Photoshop. When you're finished editing click on the Save button. If you immediately get the JPEG Options window make your selection (Baseline standard seems to be the most compatible jpeg format) and click on the OK button. Your done.
3 - however, if you get the navigation window
that indicates that PS wants to save it as a PS formatted file. You'll need to either select JPEG from the menu and save (top image) or click on the desktop in the Navigation window (bottom image) and save it to the desktop for importing as a new photo.
This method will let iPhoto know that the photo has been editied and will update the thumbnail file to reflect the edit..
NOTE: With Photoshop Elements the Saving File preferences should be configured as shown:
I also suggest the Maximize PSD File Compatabilty be set to Always. In PSE’s General preference pane set the Color Picker to Apple as shown:
Note: to switch between iPhoto and PS or PSE as the editor of choice Control (right)-click on the thumbnail and select either Edit in iPhoto or Edit in External Editor from the contextual menu. If you use iPhoto to edit more than PSE re-select iPhoto in the iPhoto General preference pane. Then iPhoto will be the default editor and you can use the contextual menu to select PSE for your editor when desired.
OT -
Can I purchase Mountain Lion and make a flash drive bootable? I do not want to install it on my Macbook Pro. I have Snow Leopard on my Macbook Pro now, and due to my hard drive needing repair, I need to boot off of another source, like my flash drive. I am in Paris and my Snow Leopard DVD is in Texas.
Mac OS X has a built-in disk diagnostic and repair program called fsck or file system consistency check. Here’s how to verify and repair your startup disk with fsck. As soon as you hear the startup tone, press and hold Command-S on the keyboard. Keep holding down those keys until you see a black screen with white lettering. This is called “booting into Single User Mode.” As the Mac boots in this mode, the screen reports each step of the process. The line should end in root#. Right after the root# prompt, enter the following: /sbin/fsck -fy
If repairing the disk in single user mode fails, it means one of two things. Either your hard drive itself is failing (a hardware failure), or the directory damage on your hard drive is beyond the capability of the built-in repair procedures in OS X. -
I have frequent instances of my Macbook Pro beeping 3 times and then I have to forcefully shut it down by pressing the power button. What is this all about? Please help. Thank you.
I saw this report being sent to Apple:
Interval Since Last Panic Report: 581719 sec
Panics Since Last Report: 10
Anonymous UUID: F4CF708D-D85C-4EC5-8047-4FC22C6B03AF
Fri Mar 7 13:00:14 2014
panic(cpu 0 caller 0xffffff80002d1208): Kernel trap at 0xffffff800020c590, type 14=page fault, registers:
CR0: 0x0000000080010033, CR2: 0x0000000000000000, CR3: 0x0000000007541000, CR4: 0x0000000000040660
RAX: 0xffffff8000000000, RBX: 0xffffff800d35a870, RCX: 0xffffff800cf55cd8, RDX: 0xffffff80008a8fcc
RSP: 0xffffff805e5f3d60, RBP: 0xffffff805e5f3da0, RSI: 0x000000001dcd6500, RDI: 0xffffff800d168778
R8: 0x0000000000000001, R9: 0xffffff805e5f3e88, R10: 0x0000000000000011, R11: 0x0000000000000000
R12: 0x0000000000000000, R13: 0xffffff800d168770, R14: 0xffffff800d168778, R15: 0x0000000000000000
RFL: 0x0000000000010082, RIP: 0xffffff800020c590, CS: 0x0000000000000008, SS: 0x0000000000000010
Error code: 0x0000000000000000
Backtrace (CPU 0), Frame : Return Address
0xffffff805e5f3a00 : 0xffffff8000204d15
0xffffff805e5f3b00 : 0xffffff80002d1208
0xffffff805e5f3c50 :
Model: MacBookPro8,1, BootROM MBP81.0047.B27, 2 processors, Intel Core i5, 2.3 GHz, 4 GB, SMC 1.68f99
Graphics: Intel HD Graphics 3000, Intel HD Graphics 3000, Built-In, 384 MB
Memory Module: global_name
AirPort: spairport_wireless_card_type_airport_extreme (0x14E4, 0xD6), Broadcom BCM43xx 1.0 5.100.198.104.5)
Bluetooth: Version 2.4.5f3, 2 service, 12 devices, 1 incoming serial ports
Serial ATA Device: Hitachi HTS545032B9A302, 298.09 GB
Serial ATA Device: OPTIARC DVD RW AD-5970H
USB Device: FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in), 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x8509, 0xfa200000 / 3
USB Device: Hub, 0x0424 (SMSC), 0x2513, 0xfa100000 / 2
USB Device: BRCM2070 Hub, 0x0a5c (Broadcom Corp.), 0x4500, 0xfa110000 / 5
USB Device: Bluetooth USB Host Controller, 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x821a, 0xfa113000 / 8
USB Device: Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad, 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x0245, 0xfa120000 / 4
USB Device: Hub, 0x0424 (SMSC), 0x2513, 0xfd100000 / 2
USB Device: IR Receiver, 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x8242, 0xfd110000 / 3Hmm. The problem still may be the RAM - Apple buys the RAM it puts in its machines from third-party vendors (usually Hynix) so it could be a RAM problem.
There are a couple of things that you can do yourself before taking your machine into an Apple Store or an AASP... download and run an application named Rember that will run a RAM test for you - let it run for a couple of hours or even overnight. If it turns out that your RAM is faulty, Rember will let you know. If it is faulty, then you have a couple of options - replace the RAM yourself or (particularly if you're under warranty still) take the machine to an Apple Store or AASP and have them replace the RAM.
If Rember finds no fault with the RAM, then you'll need to take it into an Apple Store/AASP and get a free diagnosis on the machine. Three beeps do usually indicate faulty RAM, but if it tests good with Rember you likely have another problem - it could be something as simple as the RAM, somehow, not seated correctly or signs of another hardware problem.
Run Rember first... call back with results.
Good luck,
Clinton
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