IMac not starting up in normal and safe mode

i have tried booting up mac with shift, c, option and cmd+opt+p+r keys, but nothing is working to boot the system properly, every time i switch it on it displays the safe mode bar (without even pressing shift key, i have tried it by disconnecting the keyboard) which loads till half and then turn off the system completely.
Please help!

The startup disk may need repairing.
Try booting from your install disc while holding down the C key.
Using Disk Utility to verify or repair disks

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    Can't open firefox in either mode, it immediately gives me a crash report pop-up

    Did you try to download FF10 with another browser and install it over your current FF version?
    Link to your CR: https://crash-stats.mozilla.com/report/index/e9c657f0-71ce-480b-a13f-2852c2120207

  • My Mac will not start up like normal and I don't knwo why

    My iMac will not start up like normal and I don't know why. I tried to run Skype then nothing happend so I tried to restart my computer, but then it never loaded

    Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
    Step 1
    The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.   
    There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
         a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
    b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
    c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
    Step 2
    If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. The easiest way to deal with the problem is to boot from an external drive, or else to use either of the techniques in Steps 1b and 1c to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
    Step 3
    Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
    Step 4
    If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
    Step 5
    If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
    Step 6
    Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
    Step 7
    If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
    Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
    Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
    The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
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    If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
    If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
    Step 8
    Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
    This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
    Step 9
    Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
    Step 10
    Repeat Step 9, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
    Step 11
    This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a boot failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
    Step 12
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  • Firefox 19 crashes on startup in normal and safe modes.

    upon startup, ff19 crashes in both normal and safe modes. I've disabled all add ons and extensions.
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    We're sorry to hear that your Firefox seems to be crashing when you open it. Please perform the following steps to give us a crash report ID that helps us find out more about the cause of the crash.
    #Press the following shortcut to get a Run window: [Windows] + [R]. This should bring up a window that contains a text field.
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    #Now, you should see a list of files that contain reports. Go to ''View'' > ''Arrange Icons by'' > ''Modified'' to get the most recent files at the top of the window.
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    at odd times I will get a second instance of Firefox startup. I have run avast av, spybot, malwarebytes, both in normal and safe mode and nothing has been found, any ideas?

    That second one sounds like malware.
    Do a malware check with some malware scanning programs on the Windows computer.<br />
    You need to scan with all programs because each program detects different malware.<br />
    Make sure that you update each program to get the latest version of their databases before doing a scan.<br /><br />
    *http://www.malwarebytes.org/mbam.php - Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware
    *http://www.superantispyware.com/ - SuperAntispyware
    *http://www.microsoft.com/security/scanner/en-us/default.aspx - Microsoft Safety Scanner
    *http://www.microsoft.com/windows/products/winfamily/defender/default.mspx - Windows Defender: Home Page
    *http://www.safer-networking.org/en/index.html - Spybot Search & Destroy
    *http://www.lavasoft.com/products/ad_aware_free.php - Ad-Aware Free
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    [http://portableapps.com/apps/internet/firefox_portable/test]

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    Hello everyone,
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    PS: My main language is Dutch, so my English can be bad at some points.

    Thank you for your support! This reply is a little bit late, because I was to the camping this weekend.
    The only thing I sure do know, is that the iMac has a bad SuperDrive. That's one problem, but I don't really wanna use it, and you fix everything by Single-user mode and when I get to the desktop to test things and change stuff in the Preference Panes.
    What also came to my mind was that there also is a problem with the videocard (driver), because sometimes when I boot into Single-user mode, I can see some white pixels which aren't supposed to be there. And when booting from SUM you can see that some of the colors are different and there are weird patterns on the screen.
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    -I have forgotten a 5th point?
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    spudnuty wrote:
    Hello,
    Anic,
    You can't remove the CPU nor remove/replace the RAM… Really a bad model!
    Yes you have to think of it more like a laptop. The only models w/ removable CPUs were the Towers.
    Which explains why I thought CPU were usually removable (I have mostly used towers except the original iMac, before).
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    Well it looks like this. It's pretty standard. Every iBook had one for instance.
    http://www.synaptech.com/catalog/images/922-4554.gif
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    Wait 10 seconds.
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    3. Let go of the power button.
    4. Press the power button once more to start up your iMac G5 (17-inch iSight).
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    2: while still unplugged, I pressed the power button (held down for about 5 seconds), then released it and plugged the power cord back.
    Do you think I should press the power button while the iMac is still unplugged and keep the button pressed while I plug the iMac (then release the button after I have plugged it)?
    If that doesn't help you really need that Mini VGA to VGA adapter so you can plug in a standard VGA monitor and check out the output of the graphics chip (GPU).
    I'm glad you mentioned every iBook has one, since my sister has an iBook
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    Since it's not communicating with the LCD it could be a cable problem.
    I'm doubting of that, because I'm sure the Mac does not boot at all (not just a blank screen, but also no power on USB ports).
    Also you should read through this site:
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    Which concerns the "capacitor plague". I'm sure you're aware of this. We had 30 Dell P-IVs that had this problem and those logic boards had a ton of lytics on them.
    Hmm… What a charming surprise
    Well, I'm indeed aware of this (it hasn't happened to me yet, fortunately).
    Thanks for the link.
    As to the rest of your questions, answer this set first.
    Fine, I follow the guide
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    PIN: C0001B7B4   Display/Scan Bar Code
    Knowledge Base Updates
    PIN: C0005A9AA   Display/Scan Bar Code

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