Lightroom vs. Photoshop Raw conversion

I have noticed that the Lightroom RAW conversion looks about 1/3 to 1/2 stop brighter compared to Photoshop on the same image with the same settings (I'm using LR 2.4 and Photoshop CS4). Anybody else notice this or have any thoughts? I'm assuming they use the same RAW conversion engine.

Thanks for the response. Well, when I export from LR to a JPEG and do the same from Photoshop (viewing them in photoshop), I get two slightly different toned images (I mistakenly said the LR images are brighter...they're actually darker). Viewing them this way should remove any monitor discrepencies (I'm working on a calibrated Lacie 724 monitor with 120% Adobe 1998 gamut so that should not be an issue).

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Lightroom develop, Photoshop Raw and Smart objects

I understand that Lightroom's Develop function and Photoshop Raw adjustments are the same. So I adjust in either or. I can then open the photo as a smart object in photoshop. I can then make further adjustments as an adjustment layer. Which I think is the same as both Lightroom's Develop function and Photoshop Raw adjustments? I understand smart objects allows non destructive editing and smart filters.
SO my questions are: When would you not open the photo as a smart object? Surely I should always open the photo as a smart object? If I want to do any editing not allowed to smart objects such as clone stamp I can then create a layer and then apply the clone stamp to the layer, can't I?
Secondly, should I also convert all layers to smart layers or leave them as a normal layer.
Or thirdly, am I way off track?

If I want to do any editing not allowed to smart objects such as clone stamp I can then create a layer and then apply the clone stamp to the layer, can't I?
And that is where the underlying Smart Object starts losing (some of) its usefulness.
Because all those edits will be unaffected if you should choose to change the development settings of the embedded RAW.
Secondly, should I also convert all layers to smart layers or leave them as a normal layer.
What for?
Unless you want to non-destructively apply transformations or Filters or need several instances of something in one file it would mainly cause a drag on performance. (Edit: or bloat the files’s size)
But in those cases Smart Objects offer significant advantages.

Fuji X-trans raw conversion

I have both the Fuji X-E1 and the X100s. The conversions of the raw files in ligtroom, while much better than they were, still have a way to go to match raw conversion from programs like Photo ninja and Iridient. I'm wondering if Adobe is working on improving the raw conversion of X-Trans files in lightroom. Love lightroom, but the raw conversion of fuji files is still problematic in areas of fine detail, like tree branches and leaves. The effect is something like an halo around these features, and is worse once the files is sharpened.

I'm very interested in this topic, too. Actually, I'm sure there are tenth of thousands of photographers interested, including professionals. I just purchased Lightroom, but this is a great chance for Adobe's competitors to get clients. Let's see if Adobe answers to this thread, and if they will do something to fix the poor X-Trans (but also micro 4/3 like Olympus OM-D E-M1) support. They have the experience to do something in very short times, let's see...

Help going from Lightroom to Photoshop w/ raw

I recently updated to PS 5 and LR 3. I'm need some help with working with RAW files. When in go to work on a RAW file from LR, when PS opens the image the image adjustment menu doesn't appear in PS. When I open a RAW image directly in PS the adjustment menu is attached right to the image. When I go from LR to PS the menu doesn't appear. Is there a way to get menu to appear? Is there a reason why it doesn't ? Hope this makes sense.

I don't use Lightroom but would venture a guess or two. If you open a raw file in Lightroom and use Lightroom Develop module then use lightroom to open that image in Photoshop as image or as a smart object there is no reason to need the ACR window for the RAW file been through Adobe RAW conversion engin. There are ACR settings set and there may even be a rgb image in memory. Therefore there is no reason to display the ACR user interface the RGB Image can be passed or the ACR settings and RAW data can be passed the Adobe RAW conversions which can produce the RGB images to be edit. If you open the RAW image as a smart object if you double click on the smart object icon in the smart object layer in the Layers palette the ACR user interface will open so you can make adjustment fot the smart object which you must have ACR open in photoshop and use Photoshop save to have Photoshop undate the enbedded smart objects ACR setting. The interface the will open will be ACR user interface not Develop module interface.

A lightroom preset to produce a RAW conversion that always looks like the camera-processed JPG?

Hi,
Any tips on how to make a Lightroom preset that will render the RAW file in a manner that looks remotely the same as the picture displayed when shot?
I'm not talking about camera calibration > camera standed, portrait etc.
With Lightrooms clunky default adjustments the histogram looks correct; i.e. the way it did when it was shot. The image also looks horrible; clipped blacks, too contrasty etc. because it arbitrarily boosts Brightness +50, Contrast +25
When I zero the settings the histogram shifts completely away from the way it was shot, as if it was underexposed, which is not correct. I've tested this with perfect exposures using a GMB colour chart.
I guess the camera is showing me a histogram of the JPEG after it has been processed.
Is there a quantifiable way to replicate this other than playing with the sliders until the RAW roughly matches the JPG and then saving the preset?
Thanks.
Update - I'm using a Canon 5DMkII and a 1DsMkII

Good grief. When I photograph a color chart, under controlled lighting conditions, exposed perfectly, that is what I want to see as the default RAW conversion, with acurate values. In fact with camera calibrations that is pretty much how it works. It's not open to interpretation. Blacks have a certain value, neutral 8, neutral 6.8 etc.
If not, then give me the tools to accomplish this quickly. In Photoshop I can shoot a scene under controlled lighting, shoot a color chart in the first frame, create a custom curve and apply this to every subsequent shot. There is a rough way to do this in LR but it's quite a backward step.
THEN I can have a filed day, changing whatever I want, but I do not like randomly dragging sliders until it "looks ok". I stopped doing that my first year of Photoshop when I learned how to use the color sampler correctly.
"If you shoot raw (as opposed to JPEG) then YOU have the power and capability to decide what stuff is supposed to look like. "
I understand I have the power to decide what stuff looks like. Nothing I have said so far argues against this. I'm asking for an accurate baseline, from which I can let my creativity run wild.
" I encourage people to ignore the LCD and go with your guts", "If you are lazy and don't want to be bothered rendering the scene, yes, I can understand why you would want somebody else to control the interpretation of the scene"
The LCD and the histogram are a quick way of evaluating correct exposure for a shot, so that blacks are not clipped and highlights are not blown out and lost forever. They are standard TOOLs of modern photography. To not use them is illogical. It would be like instructing people not to use the camera's inbuilt light meter, because it's "more creative" without it.
It does not have to be one extreme or the other. People seem to be saying "reject the jpg - it means nothing. Let the artist in you decide" and yet they blithely accept the default settings Lightroom gives. My point is, the camera rendering is a good REFERENCE POINT, far more accurate to what you saw on the day, and far more relevant, than LR's adjustments.
Once I have an accurate rendering, quickly, THEN I can be creative and enjoy the power and flexibility of RAW. If nothing else, it's a much faster way to work.

Send a raw photo from lightroom to photoshop as a smart "object"

how to send a raw photo from lightroom to photoshop as a smart "object" not a flat "image" so it does not flatten the image but so I still get all the adjustments i have made in lightroom to show up in photoshop?

Select the image in Lightroom, choose 'Edit in' from Photo menu then choose 'Open as Smart Object in Photoshop'. The file will transfer to Photohop (Ps) complete with Lr applied edits which can be refined in Camera Raw by double clicking on icon in the Ps Layers panel (see screen shot).

I can not open my photo, opened in lightroom, in photoshop CS4. Plug-in camera raw is missing

I can not open my photo, opened in lightroom, in photoshop CS4. a plug-in camera raw xx is missing. Advice to update does not work. There is no plug-in in the map photoshop plug-ins.

This is expected. CS4 will never be able to open files from a current version of LR and a modern camera.
http://helpx.adobe.com/creative-suite/kb/camera-raw-plug-supported-cameras.html
http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/global/camera-raw-compatible-applications.html
Mylenium

Can't open a raw file from Lightroom to Photoshops ACR

I got used to using Lightroom 3 as a place to catalogue and store my images but still process my Raw files in Adobe Photoshops Raw Convertor. Now that I have Lightroom 5 I can't find out how to do this. With version 3 I just highlighted say 3 files and hit command E.
I know I can open an image as a smart object and go about it that way but I can't open multiple images from Lightroom to ACR.
I know people will say '' hey well do your Raw work in Lightroom'' but I got used to using the Photoshop Raw convertor and I spent a lot of time and money learning it.
Surely there is a way to open say three images from L5 to ACR ???
Please help this has been driving me nuts, It's suggested I will need to start using Bridge but I'm bewildered and don't want to start learning something new.
Thanks in advance.

It has been a long time since I even had Lightroom 3 installed on my computer. I don't recall the behavior you are describing. ACR is used to translate the adjustments made in Lightroom as the image is transferred to Photoshop. You may have become accustomed to a certain behavior, but it doesn't work that way. The process of moving from Lightroom to Photoshop works on the assumption that you have done your raw adjustments using Lightroom, and you are now passing that image to Photoshop.

Fuji Raw Conversion Software as External Editor in Lightroom

Anyone know whether Fuji's Hyper Utility RAW conversion software (if I remember the name correctly) will work as an External Editor in Lightroom. (Just read an article by a Nikon photographer who uses Capture NX this way in Lightroom and wonder whether the same is possible for Fuji.)

Thanks; I guess my question (which I did not state clearly) is whether if, at the end of processing in HV-S3 and "Save" the saved file (likely a TIFF) will automatically appear in the Lightroom Library associated with the original RAW file; this would be the chief advantage over just opening the folder with the file in HV-S3 to begin with, but it occurs to me that this may be a dumb question (as I've just downloaded and begun to use Lightroom and can't experiment with HV-S3 yet as it has not yet been released, but will be shortly). Thanks again.

Camera Raw 8 the same cropping choices as are in Lightroom and Photoshop?

Seriously, how hard would it be to give Camera Raw 8 the same cropping choices as are in Lightroom and Photoshop (i.e., Fibonacci, Triangle, Diagonal, etc.)? This disparity in features is inexcusable and embarrassing. Surely the teams communicate?

I don't have CC nor LR. Just be sure you are comparing apples to apples
That is a nice statement for a Windows guy…
I never use crop in ACR because I like this feature more in PS itself. Also the inability to save crop presets in ACR makes it very limited. The ACR engine for PS and LR are the same, the body differs.
Thanks to hard yelling people we now have about the same crop tool in PS as in LR. Although I still don't like it in PS, after having used it years and years I now have to move the image instead of the crop.
Sadly the ability to rotate crop and having adjust it automatically to the borders is a very nice option. If it wasn't for this I would stay with the old classic mode.
But the OP is right, many features in different Adobe Products have somewhat the same result but sometimes very different approaches, options and tools.
Until the Adobe HQ is going to settle in Utopia we might be better off trying to learn living with it

Lightroom 3 raw conversion and fuji xpro 1

have just bought a fuji xpro 1 and found that lightroom 3 doesnt support raw conversion. i realize that lightroom4 has, but i dont want to spend x amount of dollars when lightroom 3 meets most of mr requirements. does anyone know if or when lightroom will provide the raw conversion

platen wrote:
have just bought a fuji xpro 1 and found that lightroom 3 doesnt support raw conversion. i realize that lightroom4 has, but i dont want to spend x amount of dollars when lightroom 3 meets most of mr requirements. does anyone know if or when lightroom will provide the raw conversion
Perhaps never. The last version in series 3 was: 3.6 and if you have got it then it will be the last one. If it is just one off thing then you can use the trial version of LR 4.1 otherwise you will have to buy an upgrade.
I take it you have done the upgrade by going to:
Help >> check for updates
Good luck and let us hope you can do something about this.

Lightroom, Photoshop, RAW Presharpening, Noise Reduction Workflow Help

I'm tying to determine a best practices route using Adobe Lightroom, Adobe Photoshop and Nik Software Sharpener and Dfine (Noise Management Software).
I shoot only RAW with a Canon EOS 30D with good quality lenses.
I import the RAW files from the CF card directly (DNG and save) into LR, add keywords, organize, etc.
However, I am now at the point where I need to determine a sensible workflow that includes these steps:
Import RAW into LR as DNG.
Edit, as needed, in PS.
Apply RAW Presharpening (as provided in Nik Sharpener).
Manage Noise (with Nik Dfine (2.0 available in next 24 hours).
Apply usage-based sharpening prior to printing or saving final file version.
Maintain organization in LR.
My original plan was:
1. Import RAW in LR.
2. Open in PS.
3. Apply noise reduction.
4. Apply RAW presharpening.
5. Save (with new version being an "Edit" copy back in LR.
6. Maintain organization in LR.
I'm wondering, though, if I wouldn't be better off doing the basics to the files prior to LR import. Note that the Nik tools work in 16-bit mode.
This is theoretically what I'm thinking, and would appreciate other user's input:
1. Save RAW files to location on Mac.
2. Apply Noise reduction to RAW files with Nik software within PS (perhaps automated, perhaps batched).
3. Apply RAW presharpening to RAW files with Nik software within PS (perhaps automated, perhaps batched).
4. Import noise- and presharpening-adjusted files into LR, with metadata additions, etc.
5. Open files in PS as needed, with files becoming edit versions within LR.
Any thoughts?

To summarize, then:
First time opening a RAW file from Lightroom, LR automatically creates a copy and appends "-Edit" to the filename. If it's a RAW file, only available option is the third option in the dialog box: "Edit a Copy with Lightroom Adjustments."
Once opened in Photoshop, any number of adjustments can be made and saved. All adjustments are reflected in the -Edit copy when previewed in back in LR.
If, later, I want to perform further PS edits on the -Edit version, I have 3 options as presented in the dialog box.
1. "Edit Original (LR adjustments will not be visible)"
2. "Edit a Copy (LR adjustments will not be visible)"
3. "Edit a Copy with Lightroom Adjustments"
Option 1 will open -Edit version #1 (but it will not show any changes made in LR to the -Edit file when opened in PS)
Option 2 will create a copy of -Edit version #1 and open that new file, -Edit-2 (but it will not contain any changes made in LR to the -Edit file)
Option 3 will create a copy of -Edit version #1 and open that new file, -Edit-2 and it will contain any changes made in LR to the -Edit file
So, a typical workflow would be:
1. Import RAW file in LR.
2. Make adjustments in LR.
3. If needed, open a copy (by default) in PS via LR (command-E).
4. Adjust in PS, save.
5. Adjusted file is stacked with original RAW file in LR.
6A. Assuming no additional edits in LR, further PS adjustments can be made to -Edit version original, keeping just 1 stacked version in LR.
6B. If additional adjustments are made to the saved -Edit version in LR, and further PS adjustments are needed, I must edit a copy of the -Edit file, ultimately resulting in a second stacked file.

Poor raw conversion from Fujifilm X100 .raf format in Lightroom 3 and 4

I'm seeing very poor results when doing raw conversion from Fujifilm X100 .raf format. Who can I contact about this? Is there anything I can do?
See below for what is supposed to be a white curtain, lit by stage lighting. It results in a blown out blue channel, serious loss of detail, and very ugly gradient.
(Lightroom 4.2, Camera Raw 7.2 on LEFT --- Fujifilm X100 in-camera jpg on RIGHT)
And for more detail:
(Lightroom 4.2, Camera Raw 7.2 on TOP --- Fujifilm X100 in-camera jpg on BOTTOM)
(Lightroom 4.2, Camera Raw 7.2 on LEFT --- Fujifilm X100 in-camera jpg on RIGHT)

The blue light is so intense that it is, or almost is, saturating the sensor.
The camera’s built-in raw conversion handles this by shifting the color to cyan—clipping the blue and allowing the green to contribute more. I doubt there was cyan lighting in the scene, only blue.
Adobe does not shift the hue, but this makes the blue seem over saturated. Adobe’s conversion may be more colorimetrically correct, but less pleasing in this case of intense lighting that the sensor cannot accurately record.
It is a difference in camera profile used between the camera and Adobe. Since Adobe does not supply camera-match profiles for much more than Nikon and Canon cameras, you’re not going to be able to fix things other than managing the over-saturation using HSL or WB or other things like lower-vibrance, higher saturation.
You could try making your own camera profile using an X-Rite Color-Checker Passport or the color-checker and the Adobe DNG Profile Editor:
http://xritephoto.com/ph_product_overview.aspx?id=1257

Have a 7D Mark II and can't find a updater for the Raw conversion for Photoshop 6?

Have a 7D Mark II and can't find a updater for the Raw conversion for Photoshop 6?

I assume you mean Photoshop CS6?
I don't think your camera is supported.
Anyway here you'll find the info
Camera Raw plug-in | Supported cameras
Camera Raw-compatible Adobe applications

Importing images with Lightroom 2 & Camera RAW 4.5

The following query has been raised with Adobe Technical Support (5 days ago and I am still waiting for a response/reply. They claim to reply within 24 hours but they have not on this occasion......they seem to be ignoring me
Perhaps a fellow user can help to identify or resolve the problem.
Operating System:
Windows XP Professional (Service Pack 3)
Software:
Adobe Design Premium CS3 (10.0.1); Photoshop Lightroom 1.4 (which was working fine) and Lightroom 2 (on trial and not working particularly well)
I am using a trial download of Photoshop Lightroom 2 (with Camera RAW 4.5 in Photoshop CS3).
I am having a few problems with editing Lightroom 2 images in Photoshop CS3 but I understand that Adobe is currently investigating a solution to this problem.
I have also noticed another potential problem since I have started to import images from a computer drive to Lightroom 2 and converting the Manufacturers RAW files to DNG (with the option to leave the files at their current location/drive).
My RAW and JPEG files open ok in Camera RAW (v 4.5) for basic editing and subsequently to Photoshop for more detailed work. The problem is that all my images are now opening as Smart Objects by default in Photoshop CS3, as opposed to opening as a Background layer". (I have not knowingly opted to use the Open as Smart Object option.
I am not entirely sure how this came about but I have also lost the capacity to edit images with empty Levels adjustment layers or percentage (%) grey fill option).
I am able to highlight the respective layer and create the empty Levels adjustment layer, change the blend mode to either Multiply or Screen, fill the Layer Mask with Black (Alt & backspace), change the opacity level as desired, select the brush tool and change the foreground colour to white to enable the applicable Dodge or Burn processes.
Unfortunately, it does not function irrespective of the preferred opacity level. The Dodge or Burn feature is static with no effect on the image.
I cannot recall any settings to open all files as Smart Objects in Photoshop CS3 but would welcome some help in identifying such a setting if it exists. Alternatively, I would welcome any other suggested methods of correcting the above difficulties.
The same difficulties are evident when I try to use the Dodge or Burn features via the Edit and Fill option with a percentage of Grey and the Overlay Blend Mode.
The "Common Denominator" of the above difficulties appear to be Lightroom 2 and Camera RAW 4.5 (individually and or collectively) and now I am stuck between a rock and a hard place.
Are any other users experiencing similar issues or have any suggestions about how I might correct or resolve these problems? ......
I am not afraid of hearing or accepting that the "Dummy Factor" has played some part or how I may release myself from the said "Dummy Factor".....any help is welcome help.
Adobe Technical Support seems to be ignoring me......I wonder why?
Regards
Bob Wallace

Essentially you are wrapping the raw image data into a special type of layer, a "smart object". You can then revisit and fine tune the Camera Raw conversion as often as you want and take advantage of working directly on the raw data in its pre-Photoshop purity. You can also apply to this smart object layer a number of Photoshop adjustments and filters - and again redo and fine tune them as often as you wish.
You'll find them explained in a number of recent books. I know Scott Kelby is keen on them, there are examples on Russell Brown's site, and my own book last year on B&W strongly advocated their use.
Have a play.
John

Lightroom vs. Photoshop Raw conversion

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