Moving to a bigger HD on my MBPro

I am planning on upgrading the HED on my MBPro (OS X 10.5.8 and Parallels with XP). Runs great, just need a bigger drive. Unlike Windows, is there an easy way or do I have to re-install everything............
Thanks!

These basic steps work - thanks.
SuperDuper & Winclone are free - so that's nice.
The new version of SuperDuper doesn't have an option to expand - it just does it. And, "clone the existing hard drive" is now called "copy" - but it results in an exact copy that is bootable of the original and the whole new drive is available.
Winclone can backup & restore the boot camp partition to a network drive - no need to keep it on the desktop of the original disk. Winclone has to download some NTFS files before it will run. Make sure you are connected to the Internet when you run Winclone for the first time. Your best bet is to launch Winclone before you run SuperDuper - that way all of the NTFS support files will get copied to the new drive.
Winclone also lets you resize your NTFS "foot print" when you restore. When you use boot camp assistant to create a new partition, make it bigger or smaller - as you like. And then using the Winclone option to expand or shrink to fit the new boot camp partition.
This is a missing step: You have to re-partition the new drive before you can use it. Be careful while re-partitioning the replacement disk - there is an extra step that isn't obvious. Most disks seem to come from the store with a basic DOS / Windows partition. You have to select <Options...> from the "Disk Utilities" <Partition> menu to select the "Boot an OS-X computer" option; otherwise, "Boot Camp Assistant" will not let you re-partition the new drive.
This whole process took me about 5 hours. I used SuperDuper to clone to USB drive, and Winclone to a network drive. My original disk was 160GB: 50GB boot camp partition & a 90GB Mac partition. I moved to a 500GB drive = 50GB boot camp, 410 Mac.
I had to do this twice - because the replacement disk didn't have the "Boot Mac OS-X 10.5" option when I partitioned it.
The original HD is still bootable - put it in a USB enclosure and connect it to the computer - power up and hold the <option> key, and you can boot off the old disk. This saved me a lot of time when I had to do this the 2nd time.

Similar Messages

Hpe540f and moving to a bigger case and other minor questions

ok, so the thing is, is that since I've gotten my hpe540f (or VERY similar computer in the same line), I've been slowly improving the computer by adding a better graphics card and a better PSU (550ti and a 600 watt psu if you must know) and the case has started to get a bit cramped and the temperatures in the case are at a semi-alarming rate and I've tried different methods to lower the temperatures (cleaning/dusting and wire arranging), but I eventually deduced that it was the airflow of the case, so this is where my questions come in...
I've never really messed with a pre-built computer before and I just need to know that if you really can move to another case and whatnot easily (sounds like a silly question, but I've never had to move entire components to another case before and previous computers I had were built my dad or the both of us)
I've also had my eye on a certain case which seems to be bigger than my current case and is a bit on the cheap side, but has gotten good reviews and is made for gaming (which I intend to do a lot of or use most in my computer) I just would like to know if this computer case would work with the components I currently have and will last me...if not then by all means if you have any other suggestions on cases I could get, that would be great too
Below I'm going to link the product pages for the case and another page that seems to list most everything about my current computer minus the upgrades I've made over the years (but I listed them above and they aren't too significant that I doubt it would matter)
http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/ca/en/ho/WF06b/12454-12454-3329740-64546-64546-5035344-5068325.html?d...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147153

Hi,
The issues that you will run into when transfering the existing "guts" of your PC to a new case are:
Motherboard mounting --> many cases should be able to accomodate most of the mounting holes
Rear I/O plate -- you need to remove this and transfer it to the new case as one is not included
USB header connectors -- make sure that the new case can handle the USB motherboard connectors
Front panel connections
The case for the HPE-540f appears to have slotted air intake vents at the top so the PSU should be mounted fan up so it can draw cool air from the upper side vents. Double check this as a possiblity on how to reduce heat. Additional cooling ideas: PCI slot cooling fan and vented PCI slot covers.
My HP e9280t appears to have the same case. I am running a much higher wattge video card, higher wattage power supply, higher wattage processor, more memory dimms and three hard drives. The point here is that I am not experiencing heat issues.
HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

Harddisk to small , using referenced library, moving files to bigger disk

Hi !
I am using aperture for referencing files, what problems can be expected if the harddrive will be to small and i have to move all files to a bigger disk ?
i am sure to have the new harddisk named exactly as the old one , does aperture will find all my data ?

One way to deal with this issue id simply to relocate the Master files. Copy them to the new drive, In Aperture choose File> Manage referenced files. If the reconnect options are not readily available , click the show reconnect options button. Navigate to the new location and click. Click the reconnect all buttom. Click done. iView Media Pro will find the files if you move them to another drive and rename it the same name as where they came from, but I haven't tried this with Aperture and I don't believe it's documented because it's so easy to actually move the masters and reconnect. You can also choose to have Masters on several different drives if your images out grow your original location. By choosing manage referenced images, you can locate where each image is if you have the need.
Jeff

Moving Ref Images in Multiple projects

Does anyone know if its possible to batch move multiple projects of referenced images in one library. I am moving to a bigger external drive and don't want to have to go in to each project and repoint it to the new referenced file location.

Yes,
Just use any view where you can see the images - even a search based on whatever criteria you want, select them all and use file->relocate. The subfolder options will even let you restructure them in various subfolder formats based on date, project name, whatever.
Or...
Just move them outside of Aperture and use file->locate to reconnect them. Personally I would choose option one.
I have a bunch of stuff here on various Aperture topics
[http://photo.rwboyer.com/
RB

Accidentally moving a directory on directory tree happens on occassion, shall be a question: ARE YOU SURE YOU WANT TO MOVE DIR1 to DIR2

Hello,
Accidentally moving a directory on directory tree happens on occassion
shall be a question: ARE YOU SURE YOU WANT TO MOVE DIR1 to DIR2.
I have a TB profile on USB stick and 2 or 3 times happen that I moved
accidentally one diretory onto another and run out of space.
Thunderbird TB crushed and lost lot of emails.
There shall be a popup asking: ARE YOU SURE YOU WANT TO MOVE DIR1 to DIR2
preventing to do that action automatically as it is unstoppable and unreversable
and in case of low disk space leads to DB corruption.
Best Regards and please continue great job in developing Thunderbird!

And I think it would be a very nice enhancement and shall be added anyway.
(After first popup, there shall be a checkbox - do never ask again)
Once you face the problem (don't now how big your DB is, mine 20GB, 9 years) then maybe you change your mind. How many times a day you reorganize your folders? Have your moved a folder bigger then 2 or 3 GB by click?

Extra space in text file line

This one is not critical, just aesthetical. My program writes lots of lines of info into a text file. One section of my code seems to include an extra empty space at the beginning of the line. The text is correct, but it just looks awkward being one space off from all the other lines of text.
I will include a sample of the section of code writing to the text file. I didn't include all of my code, so parts of the sample I'm including will show errors, but you can get the gist of what I'm trying to do.
In the line that displays "Start time of switch setting", the text is moved one spot over. Why?
Amateur programmer for over 10 years!
Attachments:
space in first text file line - sample code.vi ‏28 KB

Yup, that seemed to do the trick! I never even tinkered with "edit format string" of my "format into string" tools. I just wired my strings into them and let 'er rip.
I ended up looking into the format of my other "format into string" tools in my program and they were set up the same - a space between each %s. But only that one "format into string" tool between string lines 5 and 6 did it actually place a space in the resulting text. Weird. Nowhere else did that occur.
Thanks for the help!
And tell me about desctructive kids!! I have 4 kids - all under the age of 6! I know all about toilets clogged by toys, lipstick smeared on walls, hand lotion all over just cleaned laundry, etc.
My brother worked at a govt. contractor for a few years until he moved on to bigger and better. Years later he was browsing the stock section of the newspaper and he was reminded that he still had some stock from that company. So he glanced at the stock value listed in the paper and found he had almost $10,000 just sitting there! He bought a beautiful new Martin acoustic. I love that guitar! I have an old Fender dreadnought acoustic. I took it once to a guitar dealer to trade it in. He looked at it and handed it back and told me I better hold on to it, it was worth more than I realized.
Probably not worth enough to put 4 kids through college though.
Amateur programmer for over 10 years!

MacBook Pro running v.slow - is there a way of optimising HD?

My MBP is running like an absolute dog! It's seriously frustrating, feels like I'm working on an 8MB RAM 15 yr old machine at times. I bought it from a printer 2nd hand 2 yrs ago, and was running fine for the first 18 months. It came with Adobe CS3 and Quark XPress 7 installed 7.0 installed, so doubt original copies. Quark especially is dire at times. Some egs of what happens:
- when I log in from sleep with password, sometimes it takes me back to the same log in screen - have to do it twice! Sometimes it literally locks out with a black screen and the arrow cursor - pressing any key or combo of keys (yes, tried force quit & everything) gives what I describe as the 'dom' sound - the low tone single note...?? I have to disconnect from power and remove battery to reboot.
- I get the occasional (which also happens on my Mac Pro) weird window where it enlarges off the foot of the screen. I have to click the green button at top left of window to make the bottom of the window appear, b4 I can then shrink it to what size I want - very annoying. I think this happens sometimes from switching from cover flow, but not 100%.
- Generally takes much to long to react in apps - the rotating spectrum symbol appears on nearly every command.
I just feel the machine is struggling, big time, and feel like I want to totally erase and reinstall, but surely, supposedly the best OS in the world (?), this shouldn't need to be done???
PS. Battery life is virtually nothing, it does need a new one, but this all happens when connected to the mains so presume this is irrelevant?
Any help appreciated.

To answer the question posed in your thread title (sorry, it's long!):
Defragmentation in OS X:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1375?viewlocale=en_US
Whilst 'defragging' OS X is rarely necessary, Rod Hagen has produced this excellent analysis of the situation which is worth reading:
Most users, as long as they leave plenty of free space available , and don't work regularly in situations where very large files are written and rewritten, are unlikely to notice the effects of fragmentation on either their files or on the drives free space much.
As the drive fills the situations becomes progressively more significant, however.
Some people will tell you that "OSX defrags your files anyway". This is only partly true. It defrags files that are less than 20 MB in size. It doesn't defrag larger files and it doesn't defrag the free space on the drive. In fact the method it uses to defrag the smaller files actually increases the extent of free space fragmentation. Eventually, in fact, once the largest free space fragments are down to less than 20 MB (not uncommon on a drive that has , say only 10% free space left) it begins to give up trying to defrag altogether. Despite this, the system copes very well without defragging as long as you have plenty of room.
Again, this doesn't matter much when the drive is half empty or better, but it does when it gets fullish, and it does especially when it gets fullish if you are regularly dealing with large files , like video or serious audio stuff.
If you look through this discussion board you will see quite a few complaints from people who find that their drive gets "slow". Often you will see that say that "still have 10 or 20 gigs free" or the like. On modern large drives by this stage they are usually in fact down to the point where the internal defragmentation routines can no longer operate , where their drives are working like navvies to keep up with finding space for any larger files, together with room for "scratch files", virtual memory, directories etc etc etc. Such users are operating in a zone where they put a lot more stress on their drives as a result, often start complaining of increased "heat", etc etc. Most obviously, though, the computer slows down to a speed not much better than that of molasses. Eventually the directories and other related files may collapse altogether and they find themselves with a next to unrecoverable disk problems.
By this time, of course, defragging itself has already become just about impossible. The amount of work required to shift the data into contiguous blocks is immense, puts additional stress on the drive, takes forever, etc etc. The extent of fragmentation of free space at this stage can be simply staggering, and any large files you subsequently write are likely to be divided into many , many tens of thousands of fragments scattered across the drive. Not only this, but things like the "extents files", which record where all the bits are located, will begin to grow astronomically as a result, putting even more pressure on your already stressed drive, and increasing the risk of major failures.
Ultimately this adds up to a situation where you can identify maybe three "phases" of mac life when it comes to the need for defragmentation.
In the "first phase" (with your drive less than half full), it doesn't matter much at all - probably not enough to even make it worth doing.
In the "second phase" (between , say 50% free space and 20% free space remaining) it becomes progressively more useful, but , depending on the use you put your computer to you won't see much difference at the higher levels of free space unless you are serious video buff who needs to keep their drives operating as efficiently and fast as possible - chances are they will be using fast external drives over FW800 or eSata to compliment their internal HD anyway.
At the lower end though (when boot drives get down around the 20% mark on , say, a 250 or 500 Gig drive) I certainly begin to see an impact on performance and stability when working with large image files, mapping software, and the like, especially those which rely on the use of their own "scratch" files, and especially in situations where I am using multiple applications simultaneously, if I haven't defragmented the drive for a while. For me, defragmenting (I use iDefrag too - it is the only third party app I trust for this after seeing people with problems using TechToolPro and Drive Genius for such things) gives a substantial performance boost in this sort of situation and improves operational stability. I usually try to get in first these days and defrag more regularly (about once a month) when the drive is down to 30% free space or lower.
Between 20% and 10% free space is a bit of a "doubtful region". Most people will still be able to defrag successfully in this sort of area, though the time taken and the risks associated increase as the free space declines. My own advice to people in this sort of area is that they start choosing their new , bigger HD, because they obviously are going to need one very soon, and try to "clear the decks" so that they maintain that 20% free buffer until they do. Defragging regularly (perhaps even once a fortnight) will actually benefit them substantially during this "phase", but maybe doing so will lull them into a false sense of security and keep them from seriously recognising that they need to be moving to a bigger HD!
Once they are down to that last ten per cent of free space, though, they are treading on glass. Free space fragmentation at least will already be a serious issue on their computers but if they try to defrag with a utility without first making substantially more space available then they may find it runs into problems or is so slow that they give up half way through and do the damage themselves, especially if they are using one of the less "forgiving" utilities!
In this case I think the best way to proceed is to clone the internal drive to a larger external with SuperDuper, replace the internal drive with a larger one and then clone back to it. No-one down to the last ten percent of their drive really has enough room to move. Defragging it will certainly speed it up, and may even save them from major problems briefly, but we all know that before too long they are going to be in the same situation again. Better to deal with the matter properly and replace the drive with something more akin to their real needs once this point is reached. Heck, big HDs are as cheap as chips these days! It is mad to struggle on with sluggish performance, instability, and the possible risk of losing the lot, in such a situation.
You do not mention any maintenance you have/have not done:
Repairing permissions is important, and should always be carried out both before and after any software installation or update.
Go to Disk Utility (this is in your Utilities Folder in your Application folder) and click on the icon of your hard disk (not the one with all the numbers).
In First Aid, click on Repair Permissions.
This only takes a minute or two in Tiger, but much longer in Leopard.
Background information here:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=25751
and here:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=302672
An article on troubleshooting Permissions can be found here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2963
By the way, you can ignore any messages about SUID or ACL file permissions, as explained here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1448?viewlocale=en_US
If you were having any serious problems with your Mac you might as well complete the exercise by repairing your hard disk as well. You cannot do this from the same start-up disk. Reboot from your install disk (holding down the C key). Once it opens, select your language, and then go to Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. Select your hard disk as before and click Repair.
Once that is complete reboot again from your usual start-up disk.
More useful reading here:
Resolve startup issues and perform disk maintenance with Disk Utility and fsck
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1417?viewlocale=en_US
For a full description of how to resolve Disk, Permission and Cache Corruption, you should read this FAQ from the X Lab:
http://www.thexlab.com/faqs/repairprocess.html
Lastly, is there any reason why you have not updated to 10.5.8 and/or perhaps other updates for security etc?

External Hard Drive doesn't work

I have a the blackbook and a 200GB Cintre ZDisc External Hard Drive. When I connect the EHD to my Macbook, I can view all the files on it, but when I try opening or copying one to my computer (they're mostly videos and mp3's), the program will open and the spinning rainbow wheel comes up, but the file won't play and the program freezes.
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Black Macbook Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Is your external formated using NTFS, if that is, then that could be the problem.
Try to get info on your external. Or if it is connect to your pc now, go to my computer, right click and select properties, and see what kind of format that EHD has.
NTFS is a read only for Mac OS X and if you want to swap data you must re-format it using fat-32.
Be advised Fat 32 is not support file bigger than 4 Gb, so you might encounter problem when saving or moving file that bigger than the 4 Gb limit.
Good Luck

How to move huge HD video files between external hard drives and defrag ext drive?

I have huge high definition video files on a 2TB external hard drive (and its clone). The external hard drive is maxed out. I would like to move many of the video files to a new 3TB external hard drive (G-drive, and a clone) and leave a sub-group of video files (1+ TB) on the original external hard drive (and its clone).
I am copying files from original external drive ("ext drive A") to new external drive ("ext drive B") via Carbon Copy Cloner (selecting iMovie event by event that I want to transfer). Just a note: I do not know how to partition or make bootable drives, I see suggestions with these steps in them.
My questions:
1.) I assume this transfer of files will create extreme fragmentation on drive A. Should I reformat/re-initialize ext drive A after moving the files I want? If so, how best to do this? Do I use "Erase" within Disk Utilities? Do I need to do anything else before transfering files back onto ext drive A from its clone?
2.) Do I also need to defrag if I reformat ext drive A? Do I defrag instead of or in addition to reformating? If so, how to do this? I've read on these forums so many warnings and heard too many stories of this going awry. Which 3rd party software to use?
Thank you in advance for any suggestions, tips, advice. This whole process makes me SO nervous.

Here is a very good writeup on de-fragging in the OS environment that I borrowed
From Klaus1:
Defragmentation in OS X:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1375 which states:
You probably won't need to optimize at all if you use Mac OS X. Here's why:
Hard disk capacity is generally much greater now than a few years ago. With more free space available, the file system doesn't need to fill up every "nook and cranny." Mac OS Extended formatting (HFS Plus) avoids reusing space from deleted files as much as possible, to avoid prematurely filling small areas of recently-freed space.
Mac OS X 10.2 and later includes delayed allocation for Mac OS X Extended-formatted volumes. This allows a number of small allocations to be combined into a single large allocation in one area of the disk.
Fragmentation was often caused by continually appending data to existing files, especially with resource forks. With faster hard drives and better caching, as well as the new application packaging format, many applications simply rewrite the entire file each time. Mac OS X 10.3 onwards can also automatically defragment such slow-growing files. This process is sometimes known as "Hot-File-Adaptive-Clustering."
Aggressive read-ahead and write-behind caching means that minor fragmentation has less effect on perceived system performance.
Whilst 'defragging' OS X is rarely necessary, Rod Hagen has produced this excellent analysis of the situation which is worth reading:
Most users, as long as they leave plenty of free space available , and don't work regularly in situations where very large files are written and rewritten, are unlikely to notice the effects of fragmentation on either their files or on the drives free space much.
As the drive fills the situations becomes progressively more significant, however.
Some people will tell you that "OSX defrags your files anyway". This is only partly true. It defrags files that are less than 20 MB in size. It doesn't defrag larger files and it doesn't defrag the free space on the drive. In fact the method it uses to defrag the smaller files actually increases the extent of free space fragmentation. Eventually, in fact, once the largest free space fragments are down to less than 20 MB (not uncommon on a drive that has , say only 10% free space left) it begins to give up trying to defrag altogether. Despite this, the system copes very well without defragging as long as you have plenty of room.
Again, this doesn't matter much when the drive is half empty or better, but it does when it gets fullish, and it does especially when it gets fullish if you are regularly dealing with large files , like video or serious audio stuff.
If you look through this discussion board you will see quite a few complaints from people who find that their drive gets "slow". Often you will see that say that "still have 10 or 20 gigs free" or the like. On modern large drives by this stage they are usually in fact down to the point where the internal defragmentation routines can no longer operate , where their drives are working like navvies to keep up with finding space for any larger files, together with room for "scratch files", virtual memory, directories etc etc etc. Such users are operating in a zone where they put a lot more stress on their drives as a result, often start complaining of increased "heat", etc etc. Most obviously, though, the computer slows down to a speed not much better than that of molasses. Eventually the directories and other related files may collapse altogether and they find themselves with a next to unrecoverable disk problems.
By this time, of course, defragging itself has already become just about impossible. The amount of work required to shift the data into contiguous blocks is immense, puts additional stress on the drive, takes forever, etc etc. The extent of fragmentation of free space at this stage can be simply staggering, and any large files you subsequently write are likely to be divided into many , many tens of thousands of fragments scattered across the drive. Not only this, but things like the "extents files", which record where all the bits are located, will begin to grow astronomically as a result, putting even more pressure on your already stressed drive, and increasing the risk of major failures.
Ultimately this adds up to a situation where you can identify maybe three "phases" of mac life when it comes to the need for defragmentation.
In the "first phase" (with your drive less than half full), it doesn't matter much at all - probably not enough to even make it worth doing.
In the "second phase" (between , say 50% free space and 20% free space remaining) it becomes progressively more useful, but , depending on the use you put your computer to you won't see much difference at the higher levels of free space unless you are serious video buff who needs to keep their drives operating as efficiently and fast as possible - chances are they will be using fast external drives over FW800 or eSata to compliment their internal HD anyway.
At the lower end though (when boot drives get down around the 20% mark on , say, a 250 or 500 Gig drive) I certainly begin to see an impact on performance and stability when working with large image files, mapping software, and the like, especially those which rely on the use of their own "scratch" files, and especially in situations where I am using multiple applications simultaneously, if I haven't defragmented the drive for a while. For me, defragmenting (I use iDefrag too - it is the only third party app I trust for this after seeing people with problems using TechToolPro and Drive Genius for such things) gives a substantial performance boost in this sort of situation and improves operational stability. I usually try to get in first these days and defrag more regularly (about once a month) when the drive is down to 30% free space or lower.
Between 20% and 10% free space is a bit of a "doubtful region". Most people will still be able to defrag successfully in this sort of area, though the time taken and the risks associated increase as the free space declines. My own advice to people in this sort of area is that they start choosing their new , bigger HD, because they obviously are going to need one very soon, and try to "clear the decks" so that they maintain that 20% free buffer until they do. Defragging regularly (perhaps even once a fortnight) will actually benefit them substantially during this "phase", but maybe doing so will lull them into a false sense of security and keep them from seriously recognising that they need to be moving to a bigger HD!
Once they are down to that last ten per cent of free space, though, they are treading on glass. Free space fragmentation at least will already be a serious issue on their computers but if they try to defrag with a utility without first making substantially more space available then they may find it runs into problems or is so slow that they give up half way through and do the damage themselves, especially if they are using one of the less "forgiving" utilities!
In this case I think the best way to proceed is to clone the internal drive to a larger external with SuperDuper, replace the internal drive with a larger one and then clone back to it. No-one down to the last ten percent of their drive really has enough room to move. Defragging it will certainly speed it up, and may even save them from major problems briefly, but we all know that before too long they are going to be in the same situation again. Better to deal with the matter properly and replace the drive with something more akin to their real needs once this point is reached. Heck, big HDs are as cheap as chips these days! It is mad to struggle on with sluggish performance, instability, and the possible risk of losing the lot, in such a situation.

Suddenly can't connect to ichat or itunes music store

suddenly i can't connect to ichat or itunes music store. when i try to connect on ichat i get this message:
Could not connect to AIM The connection to the host was unexpectedly lost
When I try to connect to the music store I get:
iTunes could not connect to the Music Store. The network connection was reset. Make sure your network connectionis active and try again.
My internet is working. I can view websites and everything. I don't know what's going on or why. It's been going on for a couple days. I'd be grateful for any help!

ah yes, i had the flets program last year i believe. then i switched to OCN.
if you want to try to connect with another chat program besides iChat, we can try that. you can send me an email with an im name to [email protected] i had some problems with flets and had to call them about it, but it didnt really get resolved so i just switched when i moved to a bigger city.
i just iChatted with a mac user in colorado today, and i just checked and i can connect to the itunes store. are you trying to connect to the japanese itunes store, or another one?

Do I need to defragment my iMac?

Hi Guys,
I have a question - do I need to defragment my iMac? I have noticed it is getting slower.
blueheron11

Well, I'm going to put a contrary view to others you have received here, blueheron.
Most users, as long as they leave plenty of free space available , and don't work regularly in situations where very large files are written and rewritten, are unlikely to notice the effects of fragmentation on either their files or on the drives free space much.
As the drive fills the situations becomes progressively more significant, however.
Some people will tell you that "OSX defrags your files anyway". This is only partly true. It defrags files that are less than 20 MB in size. It doesn't defrag larger files and it doesn't defrag the free space on the drive. In fact the method it uses to defrag the smaller files actually increases the extent of free space fragmentation. Eventually, in fact, once the largest free space fragments are down to less than 20 MB (not uncommon on a drive that has , say only 10% free space left) it begins to give up trying to defrag altogether. Despite this, the system copes very well without defragging as long as you have plenty of room.
Again, this doesn't matter much when the drive is half empty or better, but it does when it gets fullish, and it does especially when it gets fullish if you are regularly dealing with large files , like video or serious audio stuff.
If you look through this discussion board you will see quite a few complaints from people who find that their drive gets "slow". Often you will see that say that "still have 10 or 20 gigs free" or the like. On modern large drives by this stage they are usually in fact down to the point where the internal defragmentation routines can no longer operate , where their drives are working like navvies to keep up with finding space for any larger files, together with room for "scratch files", virtual memory, directories etc etc etc. Such users are operating in a zone where they put a lot more stress on their drives as a result, often start complaining of increased "heat", etc etc. Most obviously, though, the computer slows down to a speed not much better than that of molasses. Eventually the directories and other related files may collapse altogether and they find themselves with a next to unrecoverable disk problems.
By this time, of course, defragging itself has already become just about impossible. The amount of work required to shift the data into contiguous blocks is immense, puts additional stress on the drive, takes forever, etc etc. The extent of fragmentation of free space at this stage can be simply staggering, and any large files you subsequently write are likely to be divided into many , many tens of thousands of fragments scattered across the drive. Not only this, but things like the "extents files", which record where all the bits are located, will begin to grow astronomically as a result, putting even more pressure on your already stressed drive, and increasing the risk of major failures.
Ultimately this adds up to a situation where you can identify maybe three "phases" of mac life when it comes to the need for defragmentation.
In the "first phase" (with your drive less than half full), it doesn't matter much at all - probably not enough to even make it worth doing.
In the "second phase" (between , say 50% free space and 20% free space remaining) it becomes progressively more useful, but , depending on the use you put your computer to you won't see much difference at the higher levels of free space unless you are serious video buff who needs to keep their drives operating as efficiently and fast as possible - chances are they will be using fast external drives over FW800 or eSata to compliment their internal HD anyway.
At the lower end though (when boot drives get down around the 20% mark on , say, a 250 or 500 Gig drive) I certainly begin to see an impact on performance and stability when working with large image files, mapping software, and the like, especially those which rely on the use of their own "scratch" files, and especially in situations where I am using multiple applications simultaneously, if I haven't defragmented the drive for a while. For me, defragmenting (I use iDefrag too - it is the only third party app I trust for this after seeing people with problems using TechToolPro and Drive Genius for such things) gives a substantial performance boost in this sort of situation and improves operational stability. I usually try to get in first these days and defrag more regularly (about once a month) when the drive is down to 30% free space or lower.
Between 20% and 10% free space is a bit of a "doubtful region". Most people will still be able to defrag successfully in this sort of area, though the time taken and the risks associated increase as the free space declines. My own advice to people in this sort of area is that they start choosing their new , bigger HD, because they obviously are going to need one very soon, and try to "clear the decks" so that they maintain that 20% free buffer until they do. Defragging regularly (perhaps even once a fortnight) will actually benefit them substantially during this "phase", but maybe doing so will lull them into a false sense of security and keep them from seriously recognising that they need to be moving to a bigger HD!
Once they are down to that last ten per cent of free space, though, they are treading on glass. Free space fragmentation at least will already be a serious issue on their computers but if they try to defrag with a utility without first making substantially more space available then they may find it runs into problems or is so slow that they give up half way through and do the damage themselves, especially if they are using one of the less "forgiving" utilities!
In this case I think the best way to proceed is to clone the internal drive to a larger external with SuperDuper, replace the internal drive with a larger one and then clone back to it. No-one down to the last ten percent of their drive really has enough room to move. Defragging it will certainly speed it up, and may even save them from major problems briefly, but we all know that before too long they are going to be in the same situation again. Better to deal with the matter properly and replace the drive with something more akin to their real needs once this point is reached. Heck, big HDs are as cheap as chips these days! It is mad to struggle on with sluggish performance, instability, and the possible risk of losing the lot, in such a situation.
Cheers
Rod

How to duplicate Events/Projects with only Proxies.

I'm on a MBP Retina, with 500GB SSD. Running Mountain Lion and FCPX 10.0.5.
I have a 3TB Seagate drive.
I encoded all my footage to ProRes 422 first, then imported that as original media into my current Project. That footage is over 1TB in disk space.
I then created Proxies of all that, and am pleased at the performance, and file size of the proxies.
Now I want to copy my Event/Project to a smaller drive that only has 400 GB available (I measured my Proxies footage folder and it's only over 100GB. So plenty of space).
I've viewed tutorials on the dangers of duplicating in the Finder, and that everything must be duplicated or copied within FCPX.
So my question: How can I take my current Event/Project and Proxy versions only, and go home and edit, and then come back to the office and move my updated Project file and relink and keep moving with my bigger versions stored on my 3TB drive? What's the step-by-step?
Thanks,
Chris.

Here is a possible way to go about this:
Duplicate (or move) all projects to the backup drive. Duplicate the event to the backup drive.
Click on each copied project from the backup drive (you don't need to open its timeline), go to the Inspector and click on "Modify Event References". There you will get a list with two events (the one on the original disk and the copy you just made). Move the new copy to the top an click ok. Now your projects will reference the versions of your clips in the copied event, and you can safely delete the originals.

Difference between Oracle Testing Center and Prometric?

what is the Difference between Oracle Testing Center and Prometric?

Notes for an Oracle Testing Center are here:
[http://education.oracle.com/pls/web_prod-plq-dad/db_pages.getpage?page_id=51&p_org_id=1001&lang=US#4]
The cancellation policies are possibly harder than a Standard Testing Center Vendor.
I would suggest that Oracle Testing Centers possilbly offer exams more on an event or batch basis; (Oracle Openworld is an example; though thats not what one would think of as an Oracle Test Center).
In general I suspect most people will find it just as easy to take the exam through a prometric(or new testing vendor) center. and there will often typically be more slots available. And the testing center will be typically be examing for other testing suppliers, perhaps mosting microsoft and cisco, but there's a mryiad of others out there as well. So the'll probably be well set up for it.
Here in the UK (south) we have a fairly (very) dense population. I've used 4 centers myself:
One 5 miles from me, a college, thats dual Pearson VUE/Prometric; though there only offering Pearson VUE at present until they moved to a bigger suite, with 4 stations. Nice and friendly. 5 days week.
One 25 miles from me, a training center, that offer dual Pearson VUE/Prometric; 4/8 stations; very friendly, cup of coffe offered; I usually go by Puff Puff to this one.
One 10 miles from me, maybe a 12 workstation suite, they offer usually prometric (but not oracle) on one a week. Felt Conveyor like compared to other two above; but very friendly and efficient.
One 35 miles from me, Prometric only including oracle only, maybe a 12 workstation suite, CRT's, and not necessarily of the best quality. This one really felt conveyor like to me, though staff were friendly. This is effectively a drive for me. Also whereas the others I've usd sit one down to sign the forms in a room this one was done at building reception.
The city center ones can sometimes be a little noisy and earplugs are recommended, though the one city center one I've used has provided them others don't have to.
In general from once I used a particular center I feel more comfortable; I'll know exactly where it is; where I have have a quick cup of coffee (with sugar) beforehand going over notes. This all helps me to be a little less anxious before the exam. When I get that prepartion wrong, and I certainly did once, if probably cost me maybe 2/3/4 %.
Getting to know your local test center and routine is one reason why I encourage people to take 1z0-007 and 1z0-051 proctored so they know the procedure and get to know a local Promteric etc Test Center before taking a more advanced and expensive exam.
Rgds -bigdelboy.
PS: I expect comments from some people who live 100 (+) miles from a test center and have no alternative choice. And those in some places will probably say they feel they are treated like cattle by the test center.

Text becomes garbled when sequences transferred to new computer

I transferred a bunch of sequences to my editor's computer. they look fine -- except the text (and there is a lot of it) moved, grew exponentially bigger, and in general was garbled.
This seems to happen every time I open a sequence in final cut on someone else's computer. Note: sequence settings are the same on his computer as on mine.

best guess off the bat is that you are using a font on your computer that is not available on these other computers ... would that explain any or all of the problem? are the versions of OS X and FCP the same between these different Macs? are you copying project files or using Export and Import of XML's? if not, you might want to try that for starters. what troubleshooting steps have you taken already?

TD Bank secure graduation is going to be

I just found these changes in TD Bank's agreement:(My 7th bill cut is coming in 2 weeks, so will see...) C. Eligibility for an Unsecured Card. If you use and maintain a Credit Card Account for 7 consecutive Billing Cycles without committing an act of default pursuant to the Agreement you may be eligible to graduate to an unsecured TD Bank credit card automatically. This means that your savings account that secured the credit card will be released so you will have access to these funds. Upon graduation, a prorated refund of the annual fee will be given to you and it will appear on a subsequent monthly statement. Your credit limit and your APR will remain the same. Your account will automatically be reviewed once you meet the threshold eligibility requirements. If you are not graduated at your first review, your account will automatically be reviewed on an ongoing monthly basis thereafter to determine if you have become eligible for an unsecured account. If you meet the requirements you will be notified of the impending automatic graduation and you will have the opportunity to opt out of the graduation and maintain your secured account by calling Customer Service at 1-888-561-8861. If you chose to keep your secured account, you will have to complete a new application to be considered for an unsecured card in the future. All other terms and conditions remain the same.

Corund wrote:
taxi818 wrote:
Congrats. I canceled this puppy last november when i realized that the Td bank offices south of the border. had to call canada for all information. I actually opened a secured Td bank card in November 2013. was told it would graduate after 6 months.After talking to the offices in canada they said. no , we will review after 2 years and you maybe be eligible to apply at that time.I said to my self. what the hell. in 2 years no way will i need you. so at the 1 year anniversary, I canceled it as the rewards were terrible. 1percent across the board. and 2500 to redeem for statement credit. But good luck to you holding on to it. really with a 5k limit that is outstanding. I only had $500 on deposit and gladly took my money back. I know the local branch manager by first name. and she said. well at least we helped you get into amex and the other cards i see on your report. I said what. you helped me?. really. i just started laughing. Actually I was going to cancel it in 1-2 months right before next AF.I applied for it in last October and was waiting almost 2 months for approval and receiving it. I applied for Amex and CapOne after, but got them before I get TD Bank CC.That was the exact experience i had. i apped in november 2013. but did not get the card until january 2014. damn. Congrats on getting your new card with them. I still bank with them. But they are just too conservative for me. as you can see from my signature. i moved on to bigger and better things. but im not mad at them. they were my first and even though it is closed. It is still my oldest account according to my credit report.so its giving me a boost. 10 years to stay on my report. At this point. another 9 years. outstanding.

Moving to a bigger HD on my MBPro

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