New psu for my kt4v

i'm going to be getting a thermaltake purepower 420W in the next couple of days and i'm just double checking to see whether anyone has had any experiences and/or problems with this and their kt4s or k7ns (delta will be my next mobo).  i've read many reviews and haven't found a bad one so i'm thinking this is an excellent purchase given the $83CDN price tag.  hopefully getting a xp2100+ as well and going to do some serious overclocking.  since this psu has 200W(220W according to one review) combined on the 3.3/5v i'm assuming it'll last me a while down the road.  it's replacing my turbolink 350W combined 170W on the 3.3/5v that came with my case.
thanks ahead of time as any input is appreciated.

didn't think i was swearing...  replace the **** with darn how bout.

Similar Messages

  • New PSU for MSI P67S-C43 (B3) with new graphics card.

    Good morning!
    I'm in the market for a new PSU for my system (specs in signature). I think the current PSU I have would be sufficient for the graphics card I'm looking at getting,  GeForce GTX 680 FTW+ (EVGA 04G-P4-3687-KR), however, I'd like to go modular. Any suggestions?
    Thanks in advance!
    like_a_god

    A GTX680 system pulls less exactly same power like the same system with GTX260 (both 38A minimum without oc). So in terms of power there is no need for psu upgrade as the TX650 could handle a GTX680 with ease. Considering an oc card it might be 40A required minimum.
    None the less this is a MSI forum so next time please don't ask for psu upgrades for an EVGA card. Better get an MSI card instead like N680GTX Lightning or N680GTX Twin Frozr 4GD5/OC (if you need 4GB).
    If you want to upgarde the psu just because of it being modular then go for an 850w psu to have a noticeable power upgrade also. The HX850 is then the better choice. If you want a fully modular unit it would take AX850 instead.

  • New psu for my baby

    i'm going to be getting a thermaltake purepower 420W in the next couple of days and i'm just double checking to see whether anyone has had any experiences and/or problems with this and their kt4s or k7n2s (delta will be my next mobo).  i've read many reviews and haven't found a bad one so i'm thinking this is an excellent purchase given the $83CDN price tag.  hopefully getting a xp2100+ as well and going to do some serious overclocking.  since this psu has 200W(220W according to one review) combined on the 3.3/5v i'm assuming it'll last me a while down the road.  it's replacing my turbolink 350W combined 170W on the 3.3/5v that came with my case.
    thanks ahead of time as any input is appreciated.

    didn't think i was swearing...  replace the **** with darn how bout.

  • New psu for a hp pc

    http://www.ocia.net/articles/hpmod/hpmod.shtml
    this gave me a good laugh

    Yep, those cases suck!  Being the only geek in the household, I get to work on my dads HP, and that thing has bled me everytime he wants me to go into it.  I almost dread something breaking down, or him wanting me to replace something.  
    That was a good laugh though.  Needed it.  Especially, after replacing a pos cdrw that came with the machine with one of MSI's 52x combo drives.  Drive in and bandage on hand.  

  • New PC For CS6

    Hello everyone
    I want to Build a new PC For Pr & Ae
    What is your suggestion?
    Chassis: Zalman Z9 Plus
    PSU: Corsair Pro Gold AX750
    M.B: MSI Z68A-GD55
    CPU: Intel i7 2700K
    Cooler: Antec 620
    RAM: 4 x 4 GB 1600
    GPU: Asus GTX 670
    SSD: OCZ Vertex 4 128 GB
    HDD: WD 1 TB
    Your help is greatly appreciated.

    I have many questions about the most effiecent PC for Adobe Premiere, so instead of starting a new thread I will post them here.
    First thing first, I need to know abou the CPU - Processors.
    What is the best processor for the rendering job out there ? I mean, what's the difference betweem many cores (physical), Hyperthreaded(cores) or just high frequency ? For example, if I buy the best 6core AMD (6 native cores + 6 threads), what makes it better or worse choice of buying an Intel quadcore (eg i7 920).
    Cores vs MHz ?
    Alternative way: CUDA Rendering. Yes, I've seen how amazing things can be done using the CUDA cores of NVIDIA cards. I used to own an GTX465 until it fried. Too much renderin (imagine about 6 months projects) almost every time about 4-5 hours rendering each day, and then the card is proven to be dead Well, dead=malfunctioning, too many artifacts, random freezes, etc.
    So, should I buy a $500 expensive CPU or a $500 Kepler GPU ?
    Secondly, I prefer using an SSD for the operating system and program files. I think 256GB is a MUST (at least 128 - no less!!!).
    Although, I want your opinion about Green internal 7200RPM Western Digital hard disks ? I've heard that lot's of them are quite buggy under pressure, and rendering (writing and reading all the time under heavy pressure) is a nasty thing. So, should I buy a 120 Euro Green or an 210 Euro Caviar Black (5 years warranty) ?  What brandname do you trust the most ? I am asking that because lot's of WD died recently at my work (I am working as Computer Service technician).
    Third part: I want to talk about the RAM modules. What do you guys prefer here ? Capacity or speed ? Maybe a little bit of both would be the best answer, but suppose I don't have 400$ to spent for a decent kit of 16GB running at 2000MHz.
    Last but not least, are there any settings that MUST be done for Adobe Premiere ? I mean, should I adjust the pagefile (I have 16GB RAM), or anything else ? Should I disable indexing at hardtrive or any prefetching services ?
    Thanks and sorry for the long story post

  • CPU throttling with new PSU

    Hello
    I have a W510 with the 135W PSU. Or to be more precise: 6.75A @ 20V.
    I work at two places, so I bought a generic 150W PSU with an adapter to fit the Thinkpad. The PSU is labeled 7.5A @ 20V, so it should have no problems running the laptop.
    Still, upon boot I get the "This PSU is too weak for something something charging battery something" and my i7 is throttled to 1.2 GHz rather than the 3.06 it usually musters.
    If I boot from battery and attach the PSU connector after Windows is up, it runs at full speed. And charges the battery just fine. So obviously, there is nothing wrong with the juice from the PSU.
    Thus, I suspect that BIOS does something dumb. Can I override this somehow?
    Friendly,
    Some Dude
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Oh, I did not realize that I could see that in Power Manager. Fascinating!
    It says 90 W.
    I found another thread where the central pin thing was mentioned. I am about to order a new connector tip to chop up and modify, as that is quite a bit cheaper than buying a new PSU.
    Thanks to you both for the information!

  • Problems on shuting down after installing new PSU on a p6-2207ep

    Hi all, B4 explaining my problem I really dont know if i should post this in desktop hardware or in this section of freezes/hangs/ lockups thread but i think i is more fitting in here. My pc: http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=c03382032 I bought a new PSU: XFX TS 550W 80PLUS BRONZE for the GPU upgrade R9 380 I was planning to do. Problems with the new power supply:
    When I closed windows 7 the first problem arose, the picture freezes on the screen that says "windows shuting down", I waited a bit and nothing, tried to turn off the power by keeping pressed the power button but nothing had to turn it off directly in the back switch of the PSU...  Second time happened soomething a little different, a few seconds after freezing again on the screen that says "windows shuting down"  the windows actually shut down and the screen turned off but all the rest inside the computer case continues running from the fans to the light of the on / off button and was also able to shut it down by keeping the pwoer button pressed...
    When I restart the computer he takes some time to shuts down, and only after a few seconds he turns on… Also tried the GPU with the new PSU fans worked but no input in screen which i just assumed some PSU problem. ATM i am in the process of an RMA waiting to know if it is a faulty PSU or not... Problems after reinstalling the original hardware: Some of the same porblems when i had the new PSU stayed namely: A few seconds after freezing again on the screen that says "windows shuting down"  the windows actually shut down and the screen turned off but all the rest inside the computer case continues running from the fans to the light of the on / off button and was also able to shut it down by keeping the pwoer button pressed...
    When I restart the computer he takes some time to shuts down, and only after a few seconds he turns on… What i have done so far to try correct the problem:Restore windows 7 to a point b4 the hardware installation.Reset BIOSHard resetClean BootDid a full checkdisk which means 0 kb in bad sectors...Did a full hardware check with HP software all tests passedDid a system file check everything fine What I fear the most is a faulty PSU that may have caused damage in my hardware mainly the motherboard but could be something else entirely.Could be that I need a specific BIOS for this motherboard / PSU combo but after returning to original Hardware the problems remained... What can I do given that i can only do software tests since I dont have an extra PC to test the parts...

    It worked !!! I thought i had already reseted the bios but seems like using the menu didnt do it. The computer is now working as b4 thx god it isnt some damage on my hardware !!! Should I now access BIOS and save to default again ? I set the time manually in windows dont know if that is the best way to go around it anyways I am going to search about it. Btw the PSU is XFX the GPU is from MSI. How should i proceed now,  should I keep with the RMA and make sure its not faulty or the problems that arose with it are all explained by problems in the BIOS and there is no reason to be afraid of the new PSU? Thx alot again !!!

  • FX5200 causing system instability? (Fixed with new PSU)

    The background: I've been battling this one for three weeks now.  I've had a new system for a couple of months, prebuild barebones with specs noted in signature. About 3 weeks ago I started having random crashes, lockups, bluescreens with win98Se. This was after installing an ATI tv tuner card, although the system was stable for a week after that.  I also started playing 3d games more, and hadn't done this before - I mention this because it may have been heat related and 3d causes the temp to rise - true?.  After I started having random crashes, I tried updating the video drivers to MSI 52.16, thinking that may help.  The install seemed to go ok, although when trying to sync without powerstrip (can go to 60Hz with Nvidia utility), that didn't work.  Shortly after that, the system really started locking up, with BSOD's and crashes and became so unstable I couldn't even bring up Windows (kept getting protection error).
    Other factors: The MSI FX5200 card is the cheaper version with the heatsink, not the fan.  I also have 2 hard drives hooked in, one of which was having issues.  I unplugged that once the trouble started.  The system is also probably too close to a heat vent, which may have contributed to the issue.
    Anyway, the troubleshooting: I took out all non-essential cards and got down to a bare-bones system.  Reinstalled the OS after reformatting the hard drive - still flaky. Tried WinME - still flaky. Swapped out memory - still flaky.  Put in different video card (older MSI MX440), and system is now stable.
    My question: Is my FX5200 video card fried for sure?  I don't want to try it in a different system, in case it starts flaking out there, causing damage and PITA recovery on that system.  Or could the video card be OK, and I just somehow weakened the PSU, causing it to not be able to handle even a barebones system?
    Please advise.  Mercy please, I'm a newbie at hardware...

    I picked up a new power supply, but it may not be big enough - specs are pretty similar to current one.  It's an Antec SmartPower 400W: +5v@38A, +3.3v@28A, +12v@18A. 5&3.3v combined=240W, plus 12v=380W. I can sure try it, but if you think I should get one with more power, I'd rather look into getting the Antec 430 or equivalent instead.  Let me know.  Ironically, this was the only part of the system I didn't research fully before the build.  I now see the error of my ways...
    I'm leaning away from the video card as the problem, as things have started flaking out again, even though I still have in the MSI Gf2 440 card along with the barebones config.  (So, it's happened with 2 different cards.)  I fired up the system last night, and Windows didn't even startup completely before it locked up.  I wonder, could this be entirely heat related?  It was a cold night and the heat was blasting and the front of the case is unfortunately only 1 foot away.  I am waiting for extension cords for vga, coming this Friday, so I can move the unit across the room.
    Regarding your driver question, I haven't even loaded the vga drivers, just the mobo ones.  So, it's running 16 color @ 640x480.
    I did look at the heatsink on the 5200 card as you suggested.  It doesn't look great in terms of contact - looks like it's separated from the board more than what I remember when I first installed it.  I haven't taken it off to look closer, and I'm (obviously) no expert on this and unsure what to look for.  Since it's less likely that it's the video card, and I'm not really sure what I'm doing anyway, I'll probably hold off on this path until after PSU swapout/testing.
    I'm really learning a lot, and I thank you very much for your time!

  • NEW PSU bang!

    Hi ppl
    As some ppl might know from my last post. I have just bought a Antec TrueBlue 480W.
    I connected it up today properly and turned it on and the fan began to spin and after about 1 or 2 seconds there was a big bang and everything stopped  . Btw when I looked at the fan spinning it seemed to spin v slowly and the LEDs on it werent on. (It was connected to the fan only connector) I double checked and the connectors and everything was connected correctly.
    So I took my old PSU I was replacing and installed that using only the necessary connectors (ATX, Molex to HDD and 4pin 12V connector)
    The PC booted up fine and everything was 100% but when I retried the New Antec PSU with those few connectors it was totally dead. So this is very weird I thought cos my PC is 100% with my old Skyhawk PSU   but now my new antec psu is dead  
    So any suggestions what could have gone wrong? Any experience of this happening. And I have e-mailed the Company and asked them whether I can RMA it under faulty item. U think I could do this?   Faulty PSU????
    Thanks guy for ur help
    SAspaz  
    Btw the New antec is way more powerful 480W compared to the old Skyhawk 400W so nothin to do with a being underpowered.

    Oh How Wrong you Are "msfan".....If you wrote them a Letter, or Called and asked to speak to CS Manager, There is a VERY Good chance that you will get your Original Money Reimbursed, as I had a Similar experience with my Older "Antec 380 Smart Power", Which are No Longer Offered, And I Really Let them Have it on the Phone (as far as Telling the CS Manager, That It Happened to my Wife, and Now she is afraid to even Use the PC, As there was Smoke Coming from the Back of the PC, and the Fire Dept. was Almost called, Bla, Bla, Bla...) and they (Antec) asked me "Where I had Puchased The Unit"? and Asked If I still had the Reciept? which I did, as I Bought it from Comp-USA, But I had Not Returned it Yet, As I wanted to Let someone at ANTEC Know exactly what happened, and How Traumatized My Wife was .....
    Well Needless to say, That CS Manager, Asked Me if I wanted one of my Credit Cards Credited with the Purchase Price of the Unit, And I told Her, that I Needed a New PSU and that I would be Returning it to "Place of Purchase" Comp-USA, and she said that I had the Choice of Any Unit that Antec Made At No Cost!!!, and that I would Be reimbursed for the 380 Watt Unit that Malfuntioned , and all that I had to Do was Send the Bad Unit Back (In the Box that Arrived at my Door, the NEXT Day! with My Brand NEW 420 Watt True Power!! ) I would of Picked a Bigger unit, but it was July of 2000, so that was thier Best at the Time , So that was my Good Experience with ANTEC, And that Same unit is Powering My Daughters PC (Well she can Only Smack Keys now as she is only 16 Months Old! )........And thats whay I made the Statement that I did "msfan"......................Sean REILLY875

  • New PSU ??

    I just rebuilt my pc and after reading the fourm for a while I started wondering if I should consider picking up a new PSU. All works great as is, no problems, (knock on wood) not even the CRC error problem listed here with allot of KT4VL that others are having.
    Here is the catch, I am going to add two new case fans, one 80MM cooler master for exhaust and one 60mm for intake which will make for three fans ( one came with case, in the front of course ). I bought this case two years ago and it is a pretty nice one and came with a 300W HiPro PSU. If I am only going to add the two additional fans should I consider adding a new 400W PSU?
    XP2200+
    KT4VL
    Cooler Master HSF HSC-V62
    MSI MX440-VTD8X
    1, 512 mb stick (samsung)
    IBM Deskstar 40 gig, 7200rpm
    WD 20 gig, 7200rpm
    Sony CDRW (don't remember model name)
    Sony CDR (same as above but don't remember name)
    SB Live

    Hi,
    Fans take somewhere between 1.5-2.5 W, so you have to add a lot to get into trouble.....
    When you use like 20 or more of them, you might consider it :D

  • Buying new PSU is this ok?

    i keep gettin problems and everyone is sayin PSU so im just gonna buy a new PSU so if u can give me ur opinion on this let me kno.
    Aspire / 520-Watt / ATX / Triple 80mm LED Fan / Black Aluminum / Power Supply
    +3.3V - 30a
    +5V - 32a
    +12V - 35a
    -12V -  .08a
    -5V - - .03a
    +5VSB - 2.0a
    http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=913527&CatId=1079

    It has good amps on the rail, thats for sure.
    Some things you might consider, is to buy a PSU with a 24 pin-conector and some s-ata connectors for future upgrades. Maybe it would be nice with a automatic fan-control aswell.
    Other then that it's a good and strong PSU

  • Can my new PSU cut it?

    i just bought this new psu (see signature) after reading the stickies saying that i should have at least 18A for the 12v reading...plus when i was going to sleep last night i smelled burning electrical parts and got really worried that my computer was screwed up....turns out it was my fan for my room... :bonk:but of course i find that out after i buy a new psu...
    anyways, can anyone give me some input weather or not the new psu (in my sig) will be okay for the sytem listed?
    any input would be very helpful!  

    thanks!
    i was hoping i didn't make a mistake in picking it, i was looking at the antec and enermax (sp?) ones and while they looked nice, being b/t 70-100 dollars is a bit much for a poor student like me   i was mostly worried about adding the video card to the mix since the 9800 pro is coming in a day or two (that and the smell freaked me out)
    glad to see it'll be okay  

  • Minimum PSU for a Quad Core and a G80 or R600....

    What's the minimum PSU wattage you'd recommend for a system?  I'll tell ya what I currently have and what I'm planning on getting.  Here's what I have: A64 X2 [email protected], 2GB 4x512MB of PC3200 Corsair ValueRAM, MSI K8N Neo4 Platinum mobo, GF 7800 GTX 512, Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty sound card, 1 Lite-On DVD-ROM, 1 Lite-On DVD burner, 1 WD IDE 7200RPM HD, 1 Seagate SATA 7200 RPM, 1 Floppy, 1 Enermax 535 watt PSU, 5 80mm case fans.
    Now, here's what I want to build:  Core 2 Quad Q6600, 2GB 2x1GB of DDR 667MHz Corsair XMS RAM, G80 or R600 (whichever comes out first), MSI P965 mobo, Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatal1ty sound card, 1 Lite-On DVD burner, 1 Floppy, 1 WD IDE 7200 RPM HD, 1 SATA Seagate 7200 RPM HD, 5 80mm case fans and I want to use my 535 Watt Enermax PSU if I can.  According to this PSU calculator, I'll only need a 408 watt PSU if I buy the G80 (GF 8800 GTX) http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp
    My Enermax 535 PSU says on the sticker that is has two 12v rails and they each have 18a.  The total 12v amperage is 34a.  Is that enough or am I cutting it too close? 
    Now, do you guys agree with that assessment or should I get a new PSU too?  The problem is, I really don't have enough money to buy a new PSU, otherwise, I'd get one in a heartbeat...the PC Power and Cooling Quad 750 watt PSU to be precise for $199 at Newegg, but I don't have the extra $200 or else I would.  I'd rather have allot of overhead but I just can't afford it now.  Another alternative is getting the E6600 Dual Core, in which case I'll have enough money to buy the PCP Quad 750.  Whatever happens I'm waiting until April 22nd where Intel drops their prices on their CPU's so the currently expensive Q6600 will drop down to a more manageable $530.   

    Quote from: Jack the Newbie on 29-March-07, 07:35:00
    I just read a thread in which someone had some problems with his system.  He was using a 550W DUAL-RAIL PSU (18A and 16A).  The combined maximum power for both +12V-rails was 250W (250W/12V=20.8A).  That means if the 18A-rail is at its maximum only 2.8A are left for the 2nd rail.  If you think about it, it sounds like a yoke, but it seems to be true:
    It's not a joke. All these multi rail 12V PSU's only have a single rail control circuit inside, wich is split into multiple rails each with 20A or less current limit. I've only seen 1 multi 12V rail PSU in all these years wich truly has 2 control circuits inside.
    The reason for this is plain safety. There is a safety standard IED 60950 wich limits wiring to a 240VA limit (12V * 20A = 240VA) and thats the only reason they make these multi rail psu's.
    I've seen single rail PSU's with more then 50A on the 12V rail, that's enough to weld with ! But still they use the same thickness of wires as other PSU's otherwise people would complain about the wires not beeing flexible etc.
    Such a single rail psu can deliver 49A trough 1 wire without tripping any safeties - melt the wire and cause fire because standard 1.5mm² cables used for PSU's are only rated about 20A - A multi rail PSU, even when its a just a single rail internally with splits will limit every outgoing connection to 20A or less thus protecting the wires.
    The only reason you could call multirail psu's bad is because of bad specification by the manufactureres, who don't always supply the right numbers like combined power. But they are safer.
    You should look at the psu above as a single rail 20.8A PSU with a 16A current protection on the CPU power connector and a 18A current protection on the other wires. When you look at it like that its not so bad is it ?

  • New rev. for K8N sli

    does anybody have an idea about new revisions of K8N sli .?
    There will be a fix for -5v issue with on board sound chip or what?
    The reason i am asking is , i have new PSU and it doesn't ave - 5v line and i don't want to buy a new psu.
    According to answer i will wait for new sli platinum rev or i will go with another brand like DFI. 

    I seem to recall that MSI has offered to replace boards like yours with later versions that do not require the -5v.  I suggest you contact tech suppport or the MSI office near you.
    http://www.msi.com.tw/html/about/contact2.htm

  • Advice on new PC for video editing

    Hi!
    I'm building new PC for video editing (Adobe CS6). System is based on Videoguys DIY9 recomendations (http://www.videoguys.com/Guide/E/Videoguys+DIY9+Its+Time+for+Sandy+Bridge+E/0xe9b142f408a2 b03ab88144a434e88de7.aspx) with few changes:
    CPU:  Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz
    MB:  ASUS P9X79 PRO
    RAM:  Corsair Vengeance Red 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3-2133
    Video:  ASUS GTX 570 DCII 1280MB GDDR5 DP
    HDD:  Corsair Force 3 90GB SATA3 550/500MBs (system disk)
              Seagate Barracuda 1TB SATA3 7200RPM 64MB (scratch disk)
    PSU:  CORSAIR AX850 80+ GOLD
    DVD:  ASUS 12D1S BD-R
    Case:  ANTEC P280
    OS:  Win7 Pro OEM
    RAID:  G-SPEED eS (RAID 5)
    Any thoughts & suggestions on such configuration?
    Thank you in advance!

    I made last updates to PC configuration (updates - bold) and soon going to buy. So... maybe final check:
    CPU:  Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz
    Cooler:  Corsair Hydro H70
    MB:  Asus P9X79 PRO
    RAM: Corsair Vengeance Black 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3-1600 CL9 1.35V XMP1.3
    Video:  Asus GTX670-DC2-2GD5
    HDD:  Samsung 830 Series 128GB SATA3 520/320MBs (system disk)
              2 x Seagate Barracuda 2TB SATA3 7200RPM 64MB (scratch/cache/render disk) *
    PSU:  CORSAIR AX850 80+ GOLD
    DVD:  LiteOn BD-RE iHBS212-32
    Case:  ANTEC P280
    OS:  Win7 Pro OEM
    RAID:  G-SPEED eS (RAID 5, projects/media)
    * Due to a limited budget, at the beginning I'll use HDD's in non-RAID configuration or will build RAID0 based on MB RAID controller

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