Noise on Telephone

I have the most distubing static on my telephone line.
At times, it completely kills the conversation.
But at other times the noise disappears.
I have disconnected both my instruments and used a non-battery telephone to check with. The noise is still there.
I live in an apartment building and I am not sure if Verizon will work inside an apartment building.
If the noise is not present when the serviceman comes out, how will he fix it?
Any information or ideas will be appreciated.

I have a similar problem. I have a crackle on my phone - but only on cordless phone. I have have gone to considerable lengths - new cordless phone set. Using first telecom socket - connected to inside socket of box. Disconnected all electrical power points, including BT broadband. (Power to cordless phones excluded!) Still persists. Crackle is variable in volume. Checked line with BT online (using tethering, so BT broadband not required). It would seem to me to be a matter of 'interference' from wireless - but must be outside my home. I have not contacted BT has their terms would seem to exclude a solution but still require payment.

Similar Messages

  • Phone Tap Audio Enhancement

    Hello
    I suspect that my phone is tapped using the pizeoelectric buzzer.
    More on how this is done is discussed here:
    https://www.schneier.com/blog/archives/2010/01/eavesdropping_i.html
    There's so much noise on this audio that I can't filter it out. A series of filtering and then amplifying and I can vaguely hear the audio.
    The tapped phone audio is here:
    https://docs.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B5ingIYMt2rmZVRJSUQwZi1wRWc
    And the target audio is here:
    https://docs.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0B5ingIYMt2rmVy16emVzdXRNcHc
    The first ten seconds of the phone audio, I tried to keep the room silent. At ten seconds I began playing the target audio.
    Can anyone help me extract the target audio from the phone tap recording?
    Many thanks!

    Hello Steve
    Thank you for taking a look.
    I think I may have mixed up the files or something.
    I'll upload another file in four hours when I get home.
    I'm convinced my telephone is compromised and leaks audio down the line.
    This method is well known by the intelligence community.
    I'm not an audio expert but can software like Audacity and Audition do the work of High-Gain Audio Amplifier?
    The Marty Kaiser amplifier was used to amplify and filter out noise from telephones where the ringer was used as a microphone.
    Read the comment by Kevin D. Murray at
    https://www.schneier.com/blog/archives/2010/01/eavesdropping_i.html
    I quote:
    "Hook a high-gain audio amplifier.....You'll believe."
    There's another interesting discussion here:
    http://yarchive.net/phone/infinity_transmitter.html
    I quote:
    There is actually another methodology which can be applied to
    eavesdropping on room conversations using an unmodified telephone set.
    Most ringers will function as a variable reluctance microphone, if the
    line from the telephone is amplified to an extreme degree, along with
    application of suitable signal processing to eliminate an incredible
    amount of noise. As in the above methods, the necessary apparatus
    must be within a few hundred feet from the telephone set, and the CO
    pair must be broken during the operation (with circuitry to detect an
    incoming call or outgoing call attempt and reestablish the CO line
    continuity to avoid any suspicion on the part of the subject). I am
    not claiming that a ringer is a *good* microphone, but under some
    selected circumstances this technique can provide useful intelligence.
    I may later regret this suggestion, but as an example to
    illustrate this principle, here is an experiment that an enterprising
    reader can perform using apparatus found in any well-equipped
    electronics laboratory. Take a 500-type or 2500-type set with a
    bridged ringer and connect its tip and ring directly to the input of a
    low-noise amplifier providing say, 80 dB of gain in the voice
    frequency range. A suggested approach is to cascade two
    Hewlett-Packard 465A amplifiers, with each amplifier being set for 40
    dB gain. Take the 80 dB amplifier output and connect it to the input
    of a variable bandpass filter having at least 20 db/octave attenuation
    (like a Kron-Hite 3100, 3500 or 3700). Take the output from the
    bandpass filter and feed it to another amplifier providing 20 to 40 dB
    gain and capable of driving a pair of headphones.
    Tune the bandpass filter to reject powerline noise, and you have just
    turned the telephone set into a crude microphone. At that point it
    does not take much imagination to realize that given some competent
    engineering resources and a commensurate budget, this technique can be
    refined into a practicable eavesdropping device. The availability of
    digital signal processing can also do wonders to eliminate the vast
    amount of power line, impulse noise and other interference which
    develops at the gain necessary for speech pickup sensitivity.
    While electromechanical ringers are becoming somewhat a thing
    of the past, many electronic telephone sets with tone ringers will
    function as an even better microphone. Such tone ringers usually rely
    upon a piezoelectric element as the loudspeaker, although a few
    low-quality "drugstore-variety" one-piece telephones utilize the
    receiver element as the ringer transducer. As most readers of this
    forum are no doubt aware, piezoelectric devices will generally
    function as both a microphone and loudspeaker. Even a piezoelectric
    element optimized for tone ringer use, i.e., with resonance in the
    range of 1.5 to 2.5 kHz, will still function as a usable microphone
    for lower frequencies.
    An on-hook telephone set with electronic tone ringer, if
    isolated from the CO line and connected to an ultra-high gain
    amplifier with suitable bandpass filtering, and if also subjected to
    an appropriate RF bias to cause conduction across the initial
    full-wave bridge rectifier and subsequent semiconductor junctions, can
    in many instances be turned into a microphone. While this technique
    will not work with all electronic telephones, it will work with a
    significant number.
    The above technique of compromising a telephone with an
    electronic tone ringer was first performed almost twenty years ago on
    the Ericophone. The Ericophone was an early one-piece telephone, some
    models of which contained an electronic tone ringer. While the
    geometry of the Ericophone defies verbal description in this forum,
    the overall design scheme may best be described as phallic in nature.
    Those readers who are familiar with the Ericophone will no doubt
    concur with this description :-)."

  • Slow download even the combo version

    Hi I have been having problems with my download with 10.10.3 I checked my internet connection it's fine the speed but the download speed whenever I install it is always like this. I need some help

    10.10.3 combo is 2 GB = 2048 MB = 16384 Mbit.  
    At 25 Mbps = 655 seconds = 11 minutes.
    At 5 Mbps ~=3000 seconds = 50 minutes
    At your speed of 33 Kbps, which is about that of a dialup modem that is about what they were in 1994, it will take a pretty long time.  By 1997 they were making 56 Kbps modems.   ISDN is about 128 Kbps.    Low end DSL lines that had no noise on telephone lines could accomplish 384 Kbps.   5 Mbps is the normal speed of most cable internet connections, and that's about 5120 Kbps.   If you are less than 2 miles (3.2 km) from the telephone company DSL central office, getting 2 Mbps DSL should be practical.     25 Mbps is the minimal speed of fiberoptic internet sold by both Verizon as FiOS, and Comcast XFinity.  
    If you have a high speed internet line, either your connection isn't good, or you are sharing your connection with that number of devices that your speed is relegated to plain old dialup speeds.   Modems that use USB speeds can really be slowed down if the drivers aren't right.  You are far better with 802.11g, 802.11n, 802.11ac wireless or ethernet based connections.
    If you have any connections with Limewire, Transmission, or peer2peer networking those can slow down your connection as well, in addition to expose to you to trojan horses not normally seen on Macs, which could also result in slowing down your internet.   Unless you use such tools, there is no need for software based firewall or anti-virus software.  And backing up should be done prior to any download, including any backup to a Time Capsule which could slow down your download.

  • Measure voltage on telephone line without adding noise?

    I am using a PCI 6013, and made a voltage divider (two resistors in series - 10MOhm and 1Mohm - so the telephone network doesn't see the additional load) to bring the 40 volt onhook v down to 4 volts for the card to measure (the off hook v will read .5 v down from 5v). I assume I must use the differential configuration to read this value? And how to keep from adding noise to the line?
    Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Hmmm, are you making a phone tap?
    I really don't know anything about telephone line specifications and what are the thresholds between noise and signal, but I do know about the DAQ board! Yes, I would say differential is the best configuration for you to use. This is almost a must to help reject the common-mode noise already on the phone line. It will also produce a lot less noise onto the phone line as opposed to referenced single ended mode. I doubt you'll put much noise on the phone line. You could probe the line with a scope with and without your "project" connected to see how it affects it.
    Sounds like fun!
    Russell
    Applications Engineer
    National Instruments
    http://www.ni.com/support

  • Intel iMac 20' users - any problems with noise on your firewire interfaces?

    Someone please tell me that they have a quiet intel iMac 20'/Firewire interface set up, I'm having problems with a lot of digital noise from my Saffire LE & badly am hoping it's 'fixable' or just a faulty unit but more so, praying it's not noise from the iMacs Power supply that will interfere with any firewire interface I get???
    I've read many posts about G5's suffering from noisy psu's which was one factor in my choosing an intel iMac & I chose the Saffire on it's great reviews for sound quality, there's no way I can work with the noise I'm getting & I'm pretty much panicking that if it IS the iMac & firewire thats the problem I'll be screwed as i only have 6 pin firewire as a useable option (really don't want to use usb2)
    Incidentally, the 'budget' set up I had previously (PC & soundblaster audigy) didnt suffer from any noise like this (at least not that was even audible with the mixer levels at conversational level!) which i guess rules out any blame of this on 'mains hum/interference'?
    The noise is there with the saffire's monitor output knob at any setting & with no inputs connected, it;s even worse if i power the saffire with it's external psu instead of off buss power. I'm not using a firewire hub & I've tried switching firewire leads & removing the firewire hard drive i have in the other port in case this was affecting it.
    Would really appreciate hearing from anyone with similar troubles or even better anyone thats NOT having this problem with a 20' intel iMac & firewire interface so at least i know there's light (& quiet!) at the end of the tunnel
    Adam
    Intel iMac 20'   Mac OS X (10.4.7)  

    funnily enough I'm going the other way, I have a rack of external modules/>sampler/fx etc & a crate of looms I've just unplugged as they've not been >turned on in so long!!!
    I hear you there!
    The noise is there without any inputs at all to the interface, its defiantely >digital though, its like a toned version of the sound of an old telephone >modem.
    What I mean, is try disconnecting everything, drives and all. You might even disconnect the interface and crank up the iMacs volume to see if it is there. If it is, you can try the UPS and see if that takes care of it. Then add them in one at a time. All it takes is one cheap power brick in the mix to cause all kinds of trouble (if your using powered monitors, that brick too). Noisy components can actually send noise back into the source power.
    I know it can be really frustrating, especially if you have noise coming from more that one source. The key is to strip everything until it is quiet and then add them back in to see where the worst is. Then come up with a plan to try to get rid of the noise.

  • Question about Noise Margin and Line Attenuation a...

    1.       For several years I have had a BT telephone line.  From the utilities provided by http://www.kitz.co.uk/adsl I find  that I am connected to the Exchange at Merton Park (BT Code: LSMEPK)  Distance:-   Direct:    960 metres (appx)*  By Road:  1.29 km. Exchange Status ADSL enabled: March 30, 2000 DSL Max enabled:   March 30, 2006 SDSL enabled : Enabled  21CN due : (PSTN) N/A 21CN WBC (Broadband)   Enabled 15.02.09
    2.       I  previously had broadband from UKOnline  and used a Speedtouch 570 adsl modem. I was paying £9.99 for a speed of 1MBit/s – in practice 700K – which was fine for most purposes but BBC iplayer did struggle a bit. UkOnline has been taken over by SKY so I switched to BT Total Broadband Option 3 in mid December, and initially used the Speedtouch 570 as there were delivery delays on BT Home Hub 2.0 due to weather conditions.  Speed was initially very good but did not measure it.
    3.       After Xmas I set up the BT Home Hub and ran a  speed test  - the profile was 2.5MBit/s.  I was disappointed to get less than 3Mbit/s which is needed for BBC iplayer HD.
    ADSL line status
    Connection information
    Line state  Connected
    Connection time  0 days, 2:26:57 ------> 6th January 2011
    Downstream  2,268 Kbps
    Upstream  440 Kbps
    ADSL settings
    VPI/VCI  0/38
    Type  PPPoA
    Modulation  ITU-T G.992.5 ---à this apparently means ADSL2+
    Latency type  Interleaved
    Noise margin (Down/Up)  15.7 dB / 31.9 dB
    Line attenuation (Down/Up)  27.0 dB / 9.7 dB
    Output power (Down/Up)  0.0 dBm / 12.7 dBm
    Loss of Framing (Local)  22
    Loss of Signal (Local)  3
    Loss of Power (Local)  0
    FEC Errors (Down/Up)  6512 / 0
    CRC Errors (Down/Up)  0 / 2147480000
    HEC Errors (Down/Up)  nil / 0
    Error Seconds (Local)  2
    4.       As part of the “slow speed wizard” I looked into getting the accelerator plate for my NTE5 split face master socket available for postage only (£1.20) but the web form advised me that if I proceeded with this order the broadband contract would automatically be extended by 12 months. I checked my BT internet account and was surprised to find an email (23rd Dec 2010) advising me that as an Option *1* customer I was in danger of exceeding my usage allowance – which surprised me as I am definitely Option 3. I wondered if I had had the speed throttled. Therefore phoned BT accounts who said the email was a mistake - I am Option 3,  also said that accelerator plate was unlikely to make a difference.
    5.       I contacted the BT call centre who talked me through various options. Plugging the hub direct into the master socket made no difference.  They also ran a line test and said the line was fine.
    6.       I therefore browsed the community care forum and find that disappointing speeds are not uncommon. One of the threads mentioned disconnecting the bell wire on the extensions. I follow this advice and removed line 3 on all extensions and then checked the ADSL status on the hub.
    ADSL line status
    Connection information
    Line state  Connected
    Connection time  0 days, 6:33:45 10th January 2011
    Downstream  2,272 Kbps
    Upstream  888 Kbps
    ADSL settings
    VPI/VCI  0/38
    Type  PPPoA
    Modulation  ITU-T G.992.5
    Latency type  Interleaved
    Noise margin (Down/Up)  31.8 dB / 14.4 dB
    Line attenuation (Down/Up)  27.0 dB / 9.7 dB
    Output power (Down/Up)  0.0 dBm / 12.3 dBm
    Loss of Framing (Local)  0
    Loss of Signal (Local)  0
    Loss of Power (Local)  0
    FEC Errors (Down/Up)  0 / 0
    CRC Errors (Down/Up)  0 / 2147480000
    HEC Errors (Down/Up)  nil / 0
    Error Seconds (Local)  0
    7.       This had a dramatic improvement on Upstream speed –  and a big change to the noise margin Noise margin which had been (Down/Up) 15.7 dB / 31.9 dB  and is now Noise margin (Down/Up)  31.8 dB / 14.4 dB. It did not improve the download speed.
    8.       In the following days the BT hub has not been particularly stable with some intermittent loss of wireless connectivity every few hours. Examining the event log I was a bit disconcerted to see  alterations to firewall settings had happened (which I hadn’t made) and resets which I am pretty certain I hadn’t made – and a userid login with a name like TR69. Perhaps these are occasioned by the BT speedtester? To be fair I had reset and powered off the hub a number of times in attempt to sort out this problems.
    9.        I have switched to a Netgear DG83GT (V1.03.23)  for the time being until I have what I can regard as a reasonably fast stabile connection.  At the time of writing this has been stable for 20 hours DownStream Connection Speed 2268 kbps UpStream Connection Speed  888 kbps.As stated earlier I would like downstream to be faster.
    The perceived wisdom on the forum seems to be that several days of complete stability are required if there is to be any improvement on speed.
    10.   If a moderator or anyone with the relevant experience reads this I would be very grateful for answers to the follow questions:
    A.      Is the change in the Noise Margin parameter a good thing or a bad thing?
    B.      Are the line attenuation figures acceptable for a distance of under 1.5kilometres to the exchange?
    C.      Should I be able in theory to get a faster speed i.e. downstream 3Mbit/s?
    D.      From the forum it seems to take several days for speed adjustments to be effected or to take effect – is this a technical issue or a policy issue?
    Many thanks.
    Robert
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Good Morning - it is now 6 days since this posting. During this time there have been 2 resets of the adsl line
    Fri, 2011-01-14 03:28:43 - LCP down.
    Fri, 2011-01-14 03:28:54 - Initialize LCP.
    Fri, 2011-01-14 03:28:54 - LCP is allowed to come up.
    Fri, 2011-01-14 03:28:54 - CHAP authentication success
    and
    Sun, 2011-01-16 16:37:26 - LCP down.
    Sun, 2011-01-16 16:37:36 - Initialize LCP.
    Sun, 2011-01-16 16:37:36 - LCP is allowed to come up.
    Sun, 2011-01-16 16:37:36 - CHAP authentication success
    These were not initiated by me - and since noise margins and sync speeds changed as a consequence can I assume that this is evidence of the adaptive process working?
    Secondly, as you can see, the noise ratio has vastly improved as have the upstream and downstream sync speeds
             System Up Time 157:54:52               
          ADSL Link          Downstream          Upstream              
          Connection Speed           11199 kbps           1091 kbps                
          Line Attenuation           27.0 db           9.9 db                
          Noise Margin           14.8 db           9.2 db               
    BUT from the BT speedtester, as shown below  I seem to be stuck in a banded IP profile of 1750/1091 which is very different from the  downstream sync speeds of 11199 Kbps(DOWN-STREAM)
    Can BT staff take action to alter this? If they can how do I contact them?
    Regards,
    Robert
    18th Jan 2010
     Download Speed    1288 Kbps
     0 Kbps   2000 Kbps
    Max Achievable Speed
     Download speedachieved during the test was - 1288 Kbps
     For your connection, the acceptable range of speedsis 800-2000 Kbps.
     Additional Information:
     Your DSL Connection Rate :11199 Kbps(DOWN-STREAM), 1091 Kbps(UP-STREAM)
     IP Profile for your line is - 1750 Kbps
    The throughput of Best Efforts (BE) classes achieved during the test is - 2.28:10.77:87.0 (SBE:NBEBE)
    These figures represent the ratio while sententiously passing Sub BE, Normal BE and Priority BE marked traffic.
    The results of this test will vary depending on the way your ISP has decided to use these traffic classes.
    2. Upstream Test: -provides background information.
      Upload Speed       896 Kbps
    0 Kbps   1091 Kbps
    Max Achievable Speed
    >Upload speed achieved during the test was - 896 Kbps
     Additional Information:
     Upstream Rate IP profile on your line is - 1091 Kbps

  • IMac G5 fan noise

    Hi MGW,
    Baby Boomer recommended that I check with you about our iMac G5 fan noise since you used to have the same model. For a reference as to what all has been suggested and done go to: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=9810894&#9810894
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    Here is another link that I've found information about iMac G5 fan noise. I'd also like your impression about the methods that these people have done to solve the issue:
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    I've also contacted a local AASP store and from just our telephone conversation they think just cleaning the fans and inspecting the computer which would take 1-1/2 hours at $95/hour should take care of the problem.
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    Thank you so much for answering so quickly. I apologize for not being able to do the same. We had unexpected house guests and everything else was set aside while they were here.
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  • Re: noise level and lost connection

    I am with Sky Broadband on a BT leased line (who I pay for my BT Telephone bill).
    I have had terrible problems with my ADSL connection ever since I subscribed for Sky broadband over 5 years ago and more.
    I live in Halton Village in Runcorn, Cheshire and because I live in the village this means I'm miles away from the telephone exchange which is in the main town of Runcorn.. According to an BT Outreach Engineer I'm approximately 2-3 miles from the exchange which affects my broadband signal and the quality of broadband speed my ADSL connection can provide to a BT Master socket and finally a Netgear DG834PN router. I only a single BT Master Socket in the house for my phone line and ADSL Broadband. So there is no other phone sockets or extensions in the home.
    I've experienced dropouts for years. Phoned Sky Broadband Support countless times over the years to get them to test the phone line and quality of Broadband signal.
    When experiencing continuous drop outs on my Sky Broadband the main Sky Rambo computer (which monitors the broadband bandwidth connection for signal strength and speed and drop outs, if your broadband connection experiences continual drop outs the Rambo computer re-adjusts and lowers your broadband speed accordingly until this stabilizes the phone line and stabilizes the drop outs. In other words, dropping the Broadband speed from 3MB or 4MB my line can handle to 2.6MB or sometimes even lower will temporarily stop the broadband sync drop outs.
    This is to say, even though the BT phone line has no errors or faults simply reducing the broadband bandwidth to 50 Per Cent is a generic method of dealing with unknown factors which could indeed be affecting the Broadband drop outs.
    If there is no faults on the phone line causing drop outs, no issues with your router then I would suggest you check the mains "electrical earthing" in your home because any electrical interference, spikes or surges could be affecting your broadband and causing it to intermittently drop out.
    I purchased an anti-surge and anti-spike surge protected 3 meter, 4-way (13 amp socket) power extension lead and ensured this was used for my Neatgear router to prevent power spikes and or power surges from causing my router to drop out.
    I also purchased an anti-surge and anti-spike 3 socket mains adapter which my 3 meter, 4-way (13 amp sockets) power extension lead plugged into ensuring that the mains socket providing power to my router was fully protected from power surges and spikes.
    I also discovered the metal back box for the double mains socket providing 240v mains to my router was not earthed to the back box (original electrician who fitted the back box and double 13 amp 3-pin socket had not earthed the back box) and this was causing a build-up of electrical static on those 2 13 amp sockets and preventing and electrical surge or spike to cause the Netgear DG834PN router to drop out.
    Moreover, I have to laptops in the kitchen where my Netgear DG834PN router is situated and when either or both of the laptops were switched on or pluged into the PSU (Power Supply Unit) this caused an electrical spike and consequently resulted in the Netgear DG834PN router from losing electrical power, losing Broadband sync and consequently dropping out.
    I also use 4 x TP-Link mains to Ethernet broadband devices around the house, one in the kitchen to feed another T-Link mains to Ethernet broadband connection for my Sky TV distributed through an Netgear GS104 Ethernet Switcher, 1 connection for my Sky HD box, one for my Sony Blu-Ray (for updating firmware and BD ROM data from the internet) and a 3rd Ethernet connection for a laptop of Ethernet networked hardrive containing *.MOV or other video files which I stream via HDMI to my Sony 40 Inch flatscreen HD LCD TV..
    I have another TP-Link mains to Ethernet broadband device upstairs in a bedroom studio connected to a Netgear GS108 Ethernet switcher which provides broadband for 7 devices, 1 Windows XP based tower PC, an Apple Mac G5 system and an Apple MacBook Pro and a Ethernet network based harddrive which all the computers on the network can access..
    If anything on the electrical mains Ethernet network experiences an electrical surge or electrical spike this will be transported down the TP-Link mains to Ethernet broadband devices (as a complete network circuit) back to the Netgear DG834PN router and cause it to switch off (power down) for a second or two (lose its electrical power "on" status) the Netgear DG834PN router which consequently loses its Broadband sync. It then resets upon powering up only for the static to build up in the mains electrical circuit in the home/house. This static causes electrical spikes and surges and finds its way to the mains electrical socket or mains extension lead which you have your router power supply unit plugged into causing the router to effectively crash/lose its power "on" status then it resets again and powers up to an "on" status thereby attempting to find the broadband sync. This becomes a loop and the drop out problem becomes a continual issue/problem and won't go away until you check your mains earth wiring for any earth faults, particularly in the mains socket providing 240v mains to the Netgear router power supply.
    This is why I added anti-surge and anti-spike protection directly from the mains sockets providing mains power in the kitchen in the circuit to my Netgear DG834PN router to prevent any build up electrical static causing any electrical spikes and surges from the mains causing the Netgear DG834PN router to power off and thereby causing the broadband sync to drop out.
    Basically, the Netgear DG834PN router power supply switches off during an electrical surge or spike to protect the Netgear DG834PN router otherwise the surge or spike will fry the router (pretty logical when you think about it).
    So, in order to ensure other electrical circuits in the house do not also cause a build-up of static or send any electrical surges or spikes down my TP-Link mains to Ethernet broadband plugs I also was required to ensure I inserted an electrical mains anti-surge and anti-spike protector adapter or multiple mains extension lead into the circuit thereby eliminating any build-up of mains electrical static, any electrical mains surges or spikes so those do not get transmitted down the mains circuit compounding the issue.. In other words all the mains sockets connected to the broadband circuit in the house are protected with anti-surge and spike adapters and multiple socket mains leads to prevent the Netgear DG834PN router Power Supply from switching off, the Netgear DG834PN router from dropping out, ensuring the Netgear DG834PN router remains powered up, even when a mains electrical surge or spike occurs, so the electrical mains are anti-surge and anti-spike protected and the Netgear DG834PN router remains in the powered "on" state thereby retaining its Broadband sync and does not drop out.
    You will discover you no longer experience Broadband Drop Outs!
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    The large print: please read the Community Participation Rules before posting. Include as much information as possible: model, machine type, operating system, and a descriptive subject line. Do not include personal information: serial number, telephone number, email address, etc.  The fine print: I do not work for, nor do I speak for Lenovo. Unsolicited private messages will be ignored. ... GeezBlog
    English Community   Deutsche Community   Comunidad en Español   Русскоязычное Сообщество

  • Can anyone help? High noise margin and low sync sp...

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    whitesp wrote:
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    4. Board version:              BT Hub 5A
    5. VDSL uptime:                1 days, 02:37:11
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    7. Maximum data rate:  11807 / 57862
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    10. Signal attenuation:   0.0 / 19.9
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    4. Board version:    BT Hub 5A
    5. VDSL uptime:    1 days, 10:16:36
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    7. Maximum data rate:    11793 / 56714
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    10. Signal attenuation:    0.0 / 19.9
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    Featured ProductsDownstream Line Rate(Mbps)Upstream Line Rate(Mbps)Downstream Range(Mbps)Availability Date  High Low High Low    
    FTTC Range A (Clean)
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    60
    20
    19.6
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    FTTC Range B (Impacted)
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    20
    13.9
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    4 to 12.5
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    WBC ADSL 2+ Annex M
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    Up to 1
    4 to 12.5
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    ADSL Max
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    4.5 to 8
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    WBC Fixed Rate
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    Available
    Fixed Rate
    2
    Available
    Other Offerings
    Fibre Multicast
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    Copper Multicast
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    Hi @vs93 ,
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    Protect privacy - yours and others'. Don't share anything about yourself that you would not want to see on a road-side billboard. Don't post contact or other personal information-your own or anyone else's-or any content that you receive in one-to-one communications without the author's consent. For example, don’t post your computer’s serial # or contact information publicly, and do not allow someone you don’t know to remotely take control of your computer.
    If you need people to contact you directly, either ask them to send you a private message or subscribe to the thread so you will be notified when there are replies. You may also click on your name anywhere in the forum and you will be taken to your profile page, where you can find a list of threads you have participated in.
    Sharing personal email addresses, telephone numbers, and last names is not allowed for your safety. If you have any questions feel free to send me a private message in reply.
    Thank you
    George
    I work for HP

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