P6N SLI Platinum random shutdowns

System:
MSI P6N SLI Platinum MoBo
Intel E6750 CPU
Etasis 850W PSU
Corsair CM2X1024-6400C4 RAM (using only 1 stick while troubleshooting)
MSI NX8600GTS GPU
OK, this is a strange one. I put my new system together and everything seemed to be working fine. POST looked OK, and I was even able to install Windows. Everything seemed stable.
One thing that troubled me was that the lights on the D-Bracket were all red AFTER POST. In other words everything was working, but the LEDs were showing CPU problem. I tried everything I could think of to get the lights to go away, but nothing worked. I disconnected all HDs, DVD, and floppy drives. I reset the BIOS, and reseated the CPU. I tried putting RAM in different slots, tried both sticks solo, but nothing made any difference.
It was getting late, so I decided to go to bed and run memtest86+ over night. When I got up this morning the system had powered itself down. When I turned it on again it powered itself off within a minute of being turned on. This was with all the drives hooked up, so I disconnected everything and now it's been sitting happily in the BIOS for over 30 minutes.
So at this point, it seems like it could be a power supply issue. Unfortunately, I don't have another PSU with an 8-pin CPU connector that I can try in this system. Any thoughts? Next steps to try?
Other possibly useful facts:
When I boot into the BIOS the D-Bracket lights show #3 green, and all others red, indicating "initializing keyboard controller". But when I boot past the BIOS to a CDROM or Windows, they show all red, indicating "CPU problem"
The system makes a brief chirp the POST screen. It doesn't sound like a beep code to me, and I've heard some boards will do an "everything's OK" beep like this. But it could be important so there it is.
Although it seems happier with all the drives disconnected (indicating a PSU problem), it still shows all red LEDs on the D-Bracket (indicating a CPU problem).
This is not the first system I've built, and I was fairly careful about putting everything together the right way. The only goof I know of is that at one point I was unplugging and re-plugging things and I ran the system for a while without connecting PCIE power to the GPU. Could that have broken something?
Any help would be much appreciated.
-Steve

UPDATE: I tried hooking up my old 400W PSU with 20-pin ATX and 4-pin CPU connectors (apparently this is OK to do) but there was no change. Still four red LEDs.
I also tried removing the PCI-E GPU and booted it up with an antique PCI VGA card. Again, no change. Maybe I really did get a bad CPU?
Any other ideas, before I try to return my CPU?
 

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    Till that fatal clumsy day i wanted suddenly to.. check the D-bracket too. ((((
    All was working well, XP pro opened for hours as usual etc..
    i had not yet totally finished to install the motherboard in the pc-case (always on desk, free in sight..)... so i could always see the connections on it. ... and i noticed that ... the colour headers codes were NOT matching (usb=yellow..).. i had just stupidly initially badly connected the D-Bracket jdb1/usb adjacent plugs (inverting them), so... And still, all had ever worked perfect.. except the D-Bracket, of course, was sending back no lights then, obviously.. so i did the fatal error.. confident all was stable enough and strong if even that initial plug error had had no consequences at all.. i did the fatal bad move to try to UNPLUG the D-Bracket connectors and put them back in right orders WITHOUT switching OFF the power supply so... like an hot USB plug, sort of, in a way. fatal error.. :( :( :(
    As soon as i began to remove the usb/jdb1 connectors and put them back in normal order... the system suddenly SHUT DOWN ... no special bad noise, no special smell.. just sudden SHUT DOWN.
    From there.. impossible ever to boot back again the so far perfectly working machine (((((((((((( , always same till now :
    i switch on the power supply.. orange led appears on motherboard (ok)... i switch on the motherboard.. green led on motherboard appears (ok)... CPU fan begins (ok), video fan begins (ok) .... and... NOTHING.. total black video screen. no more even possibility to see the BIOS. :( total dead startup .. and the fans are going on eternally, blocked eternally in that inital startup with leds on too (no sudden shut down after a few seconds.. just.. nothing)... :(
    Suprem irony.. the D-bracket LED seems to 'work' now.. "of course". Just the PC no more booting at all ^. Only thing is that only green LEDs are appearing, no red ones... simply the sequence, from start and never changing :
    1. GREEN   2. GREEN
    3. GREEN   4. (---)    (not red, just nothing -?)
    If i look in manual, it means "Testing RTC (real time clock)". I don't know exactly what it means *here*, but sounds to me it is the most basic initial first BIOS checking.. and BIOS can't be reached for even that so ; BIOS fried???? :( :(
    I tried every 'standard' things recommanded usually here in older posts, for new boots recovery attempts thereafter in such 'boot errors' situations (clear cmos button pushed in every possible ways -quick, long, quick etc..-, removing little by little everything but the very minimal least energy taxing setup; keyboard, cpu, video, motherboard; 1 ddr2 nearest cpu slot.. point).. NOTHING. Worst, i tried to boot with one of those elements missing.. exact same D-Bracket lightning from start to.. eternally (123 GREEN 4-nothing). Even tried to remove the little (cmos?) KTS lithium battery for a few hours -that could work sometimes with the old already ultra-sensitive amd/nforce2 chipset bioses problems, so i tried there too-?-; same 3 green lights and fans running and nothing else happening from there.. ((
    Always the same; total dead boot as above. black screen. no possible access to even bios panel. ,(((
    So my desperate questions, now: of course, the origin is obvious here; all happened "by my fault" when i tried 'too quickly' to 'hot-plugging' replace correctly the D-BRACKET plugs *without* switching off the power supply... all shut down suddenly when i put back correctly the usb& jdb1 headers... :( ;
    - do you think there could be any possible last HOPES to recover the situation that i had missed (a well known situation in such d-bracket handling 'common' (?) connection error, a simple trick to try i had missed ??)
    - do you think i FRIED something in the process on the motherboard ?? :( :(
    - do you think it is 'only' the BIOS (fried????) ?? :( :(
    - do you think i could have fried a specifical external key component in the process (not necessarily motherboard) : ddr2 modules, cpu, video card????? :( :(
    - is my only solution is to send the motherboard to RMA (no other ways now) ???
    please, don't hesitate to give me any possible hints to try to avoid the RMA process.
    can i avoid it, right now?
    is that possible to fry an whole board just with such a D-Bracket 'hot plug switch' (on a so far perfectly working -light-  setup - no oc, little video card, etc) ???? :( :(
    That is the only C2D Intel/ddr2 motherboard i have here around. No possibility to test elements by elements for precise error checking (cpu, ddr2 modules, video card or powersupply).
    Only things i could check so far are;
    - the power supply (aerocool 620W zeroDBA) ;
    i tested it back on my old amd xp-m nforce2 setup.. always working apparently. NOT 'fried' so, apparently. but no way of course to test for exemple the special 8x8 (or 8x4) Intel ATX cpu connector on old xp-m motherboard. But power supply NOt fried at least, apparently -?
    - the video card.
    no way for me to really test the pci-e card on other motherboard around but.. i tried a very old PCI VGA card.. that one works on old setup.. and on P6N, no effect, doesn't improve the situation. So, not sure the new pci-e video card isn't fried.. but a new video card doesn't correct the dead boot problem.. (
    No way for me to test the ddr2 or CPU directly though.
    Do you think DDR2 or CPU could have been fried in the process too ???
    or just, as i fear anyway, 'simply', the motherboard BIOS fried -??? :-(
    Really, thx for any suggestions..
    if there could be an 'hidden' trick i did not try yet to try to recover the (initially working perfectly!!! (( ) setup, WITHOUT engaging the motherboard RMA process (at least 2 or 3 weeks lost here to wait the return..online store etc..)....
    please, suggest me.. ,((
    i am *really* very sad of that stupid clumsy idea to want to 'enable' the D-Bracket.. all was working great so far.. and i lost all with just that stupid idea to try an hot plug bracket reconnection without switching off the power supply it seems.. can it be possible,sigh?? all seemed so stable before that, that i.. just lost my usual cautious just 3 sec too long it seems... :-(
    Thanks in advance
    hoping post not too long too, but i tried to expose the situation as precisely as possible; first time i ever had such a problem with a motherboard/system install.. that is quiet ironical knowing it was also the best and quickest/easiest easy going new built i ever had so far too.. till then ,( .. and all came from the 'helper' d-bracket 'luxury second hand possible boot helper diagnostic tool' checking in the end too, here.. really hoping i can avoid an RMA process.. and no other hardware elements (apart the motherboard?) could have been damaged in the process ? ,(((

    hi, thx a lot for the quick answer. sorry for the length indeed (i did not know exactly how to describe the situation.. without omitting any later possibly important details).
    Alas, i already tried that many times in following interesting asnwers on similar problems in old posts here; did NOTHING. ,(
    But after your post, i tried it again, and removed for the remaining *hours* (6/8h?) the cmos battery as suggested again *too* so -pushed again the clear cmos button etc when battery out, then when in again, then replugging the powersupply etc; NOTHING better alas too. always same, no boot, black screen, no bios. ,(
    Problem always the same, to sum up, for clarity:
    power supply on => orange motherboard led is lightning up, motherboard on => green motherboard led is lightning up, cpu/video/case fans are working up as normal and.. that's all. nothing else forever. black screen. no signal. not a single chance to get again the bios setup screen.
    another detail i omitted, maybe; keyboard lights are all lightnng up too.. and stay blocked in that state too. tested with 2 different keyboards, same. to shut down the leds, fans etc, only one solution, shut down the power supply button directly, at that stage.
    right now, i test on barebone minimal system as recommanded too;
    cpu, 1 dimm (closest cpu slot), video, keyboard. all rest disconnected.
    i of course tried to reset the cmos with the 'magical red button' many times before, with power supply cable plugged out, pushed the button trying almost every possible way so far (quick, long, long sequences, short sequences etc etc)... changed NOTHING so far -is that thing working?? ,(. and right now, same after hours with cmos battery removed too. ,(
    the d-bracket leds are always (now it is correctly plugged..) :
    123 GREEN 4 (nothing)
    "Testing RTC (real time clock)"
    another 'interesting' detail is that; those leds are appearing IMMEDIATELY after the motherboard is switched on, from start (green led appearing on P6N). and it is staying as such till the end. nothing else. i tried to connect also the case speaker ; no bips, no sound signals at all too.
    I also remind the system was WORKING like a dream during 5 days *before* i had that sudden TOTAL boot problem.... AND i touched almost nothing in the bios too all along, for initial security reasons too.. (i was concentrating on the software installs anyway right now, NOT on the oc side..). The ddr2 quick little change i did was also the ONLY change i tempted to simply test quickly some setting i already saw working without problem with that P6N and that kind of ram.. and it was working without problem so far too, so.. all the time idem. And it had been perfectly working for 3 days as such untouched from there; no problems at all (those memory modules have been seen on that motherboard largely at those specs, why i did that quick test anyway.. far under their possible max -micron chips). it was even working so well i forgot to put the setting back as default after that quick ram test.. so much it was stable too (even if i had not time to do real memtest test on that one - i did for many hours with the initial automatical default settings too, to check the ram quality, was perfect for many hours, so ok too, no bad ram initially too-; was so stable for all my XP software installs operations etc.. that i forgot it thereafter, to be true..why it stayed like that till that moment (incidently).. but i preferred to mention it 'just in case' though, yes. i also did not push at all the dimm voltages in the process, it was always far inside the specs at 2.05V to be exact -usual for that ram too up to those numbers easy for it. i did not push the ram voltages either so..).
    The problem ONLY appears when i wanted to unplug the *initially* badly connected D-bracket headers so (inverted headers.. but that caused NO problems either so far too for the system stability.. only the LEDs were of course not working so far..) : i did the error to NOT switch off the power supply. :(
    *then* immediately the system shut down... and above situation appeared. ,(
    BUT all was working perfect before.. ram setting included so. ,((
    So my simple questions now too ;
    - do you know what means *exactly* the d-bracket message 'Testing RTC" (123 GREEN, 4 nothing).. initial bios problem, isn't it?? other ways to recover it now?? ,((
    - is it a WELL KNOWN PROBLEM when we try to disconnect and replug too hastily the d-bracket headers without switching off the power supply (*my* main erorr here, it seems :( :( ) ????
    ... and of course, do you think it could have *fried* another key component (cpu, ram -?? why i reminded the setting, just in case-?-, video card? .. ) with that d-bracket initial disconnection error ... ,(
    as i said, i have no secondary c2d/ddr2 motherboard here : no way to test the cpu and ddr2 modules on another motherboard to be sure too here. :( i absolutely can't know if they have been damaged or not, here.. :( :(
    any other idea for the motherboard itself though ??? ,(
    once again, thx a lot for any suggestions and precisions on that problem (is that a COMMON well known problem with the d-bracket, when we unplug and replug it without extrem care like i did -my main inattention error it seems.. mainly because all was so stable before too.. ((( - without shutting down the power supply/system FIRST ???? can it be possible 'only' that shut down all the system??? (( )
    thx in advance again +

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    This message is intended for anyone who has the MSI P6N SLI Platinum & E8400 in a working state.
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    So now I really hope I can get this question answered - What is a working config? One of the things I haven't tried yet is a new power supply. My current PS is 650w, but has the 4 pin CPU power connector. From the posts I've read, it shouldn't matter if I have the 4 or the 8. But in reality, does this CPU work on the P6N Plat with an 8 pin connector? I'd be willing to go buy a new PS if thats the case! What else could possibly be the issue? Any and all feedback is appreciated. i really didn't want to start up another thread for this proc/board issue, but perhaps someone else has joined this board by now that may provide the little piece of info that I've been missing.
    Cheers,
    Aaron

    according to the website, the 1.6 BIOS had cpu updates in march so I's assume it would have support for the E8400.
    What exactly happens when you turn on the system with the E8400?
    -=Mark=-

  • P6N Sli Platinum front audio panel and CPU temp voltage issues

    Hi All,
    I got my P6N Sli Platinum yesterday, build up my computer without any major issues. However I have noticed that my audio front panel does not work. It could not detect my microphone when i plug it into front auido panel, it works fine for the rear auido panel though.
    Another issues is I highly doubt the accuracy of CPU temp sensor. Msi 's software monitor reports my CPU temp is around 19-20 degree, I know that's too good to be true even I am using a water cooling system. Btw my cpu is E6600. Anyone else has the similar issues?
    The third, I notice my CPU voltage is bouncing between 1.1 to 1.24 in CPU-z. And the multiplier is changing from 6 to 9, frequency is changing from 1.6g to 2.4g. I only see this in CPU-z.  Msi 's own software reports CPU running at 2.4g though. Is this cpuz issue or something else?
    Finally, any tips to max the overclock potential of this board? I have overclocked to 3.1g but there are some crashes. Going higher the board just won't boot up. I read a review on anandtech.com says 1.22 bios is good for oc. Where can i download that? I only found 1.1 bios on official site.
    Any reply will be appreciated.
    Cheers

    Quote
    Another issues is I highly doubt the accuracy of CPU temp sensor. Msi 's software monitor reports my CPU temp is around 19-20 degree, I know that's too good to be true even I am using a water cooling system. Btw my cpu is E6600. Anyone else has the similar issues?
    C2D-CPUs have a digital internal sensor to monitor CPU Core temperatures.  Have a look at those with Core Temp ( http://www.thecoolest.zerobrains.com/CoreTemp/ ).  This Tool reads the temperature data directly from the register of your CPU. There is nothing wrong with the sensor.  It is rather the MSI tool that does not read the data it provides correctly.
    Quote
    The third, I notice my CPU voltage is bouncing between 1.1 to 1.24 in CPU-z. And the multiplier is changing from 6 to 9, frequency is changing from 1.6g to 2.4g. I only see this in CPU-z.  Msi 's own software reports CPU running at 2.4g though. Is this cpuz issue or something else?
    There is no issue.  What CPU-Z allows you to see there is the C1E-feature of your CPU at work.  When there is nothing to do your processor will automatically reduce Core Voltages and frequency to save power and keep temperatures down.  As soon as the work load increases the multiplier is set back to x9 and core voltages increase dynamically.  It is meant to be a good thing.
    I have overclocked my system a little and I like that the C1E feature is still working at this speed setting CPU frequency to 2GHz and core voltage to 1.144v when my system is idle. 
    If you have problems with this feature you can turn it off in BIOS. The option is labeled as "C1E Support" and might be hidden somewhere.  You may be able to hit "F4" to unhide it. 
    The MSI utilities are not the best tools to monitor your system.  CPU-Z, Core Temp, Everest, Speedfan, Memset, Rightmark Memory Analyzer for example do a far better job.

  • P6N SLI Platinum, audio driver update gives "No Driver was supported..."

    I have the audio driver from the CD that came with the mobo, but I wanted to update it to the new version. Currently I have R1.67 2.32, I tried to install the driver (R1.83 2.51) from http://global.msi.com.tw/index.php?func=downloaddetail&type=driver&maincat_no=1&prod_no=1140 but get the message "No Driver was supported in this driver package".
    Also, I went to the Realtek site and got their even newer driver R1.84 but it asked me to remove the previous driver first, I'd rather check with the boards first to see what is going on.
    P6N SLI Platinum
    BIOS 1.4
    Realtek Audio onboard

    Could you please point me to where I can locate Live BIOS, first I hear of it. Thanks for the input btw.
    Another off topic question. Does the Dual Core Center work ok with Vista x64? Wondering just in case before I get to using it. On my first Vista install is seemed to work, 2nd format it would come up with 2 error messages and not start:
    "Error! unable to load ntuneoem.dll" and "Failed to load overclocking driver! This program must run as an administrator."
    I have ntune installed on my 2nd format (which I found out doesn't work in Vista 64 properly) but cannot uninstall it from Add/Remove. A wizard window comes up and closes in the same seconds when I click uninstall. Tried to uninstall using the MSI CD which with I loaded it, still gives an error (tried to google the error msg but the msg is extremely rare and doesn't point to the problem). Going to have to manually remove it it seems and hope I get it all.

  • Memory Setting DRAM setting P6N sli platinum

    i wonder what setting you would go for the highest cpu GHZ . i have set mine at these and it is 3 GHz , temp 28 degree Centigrade.  my main concern is dram config at this stage. your input will be much appreciated
    DRAM configuration
                            Options
    1-tCL             auto  1-6            mine is    set at    6
    2-tRCD          auto  1-7           mine is    set at    7
    3-tRP             auto  1-7          mine is    set at    7
    4-tRAS          auto  1-31         mine is    set at    20   
    5-tRRD         auto  1-15         mine is    set at    auto
    6-tRC            auto  1-31        mine is    set at    auto
    7-tWR           auto  1-6         mine is    set at     auto
    8-tWTR         auto  1-15       mine is    set at   auto 
    9-tREF           auto   7.6us       3.9us          mine is    set at    auto
    10-command per clock  (CMD)      auto   1T  2T             mine is    set at   2T
    cpu  volt 3 tick above default
    memory volt 1.9
    north bridge 1.5 i think not sure
    south bridge default
    MSI P6N SLI Platinum
    Q6600   Go revision
    MSI 256 graphic card ATI HD 2400
    2 X 1GB crucial pc6400  CL6
    mastercoll 500Watts
    window xpsp2

    Have you tried decreasing RAM speed?
    Read the Posting Guide.

  • P6n sli platinum + e4300 oc

    I've read tons of posts on forums, but most just give FSB speeds, not actual numbers to use in setting the system clock, so how do we know what to use actually?
    When do you use the 1:1 ratio? or any of the others if your motherboard BIOS doesn't let you manually set your memory multiplier?
    I have the updated BIOS from MSI LiveUpdater and Web
    I've Disabled the following in BIOS
    Execute Bit Disable
    Set Limit CPUID MaxVal to 3
    HPET
    CPU Smart FAN Target
    D.O.T. Control
    Intel EIST
    All Spread Spectrum including:
    CPU Spread Spectrum
    PCIE Spread Spectrum
    CPU/LDT Spread Spectrum
    SATA Spread Spectrum
    Questions
    System Clock-Auto,Linked,Manual
    Which is best and when to use for what?
    I went to 1333 for a steady 3.0ghz overclock. Temps were below 40C
    at idle and were 65C under full load.
    Adjust CPU Ratio-To what?
    Stock shows 9, but can go from 6-9 as well.
    Last night I got to FSB1600
    Mem 800
    with 8x multiplier
    very fast, but lost settings on re-boot. So basically unstable.
    CPU Voltage-Try to not increase this by first overclocking as much as I 
    can on stock voltage, but if it becomes unstable or won't boot, I just increase it how I see fit based on stability right? I just want a good bootable computer to use daily for about 3 hours and 48hrs on weekends.
    Not too much into games yet, but will once I get speakers and a better monitor. Mostly business/student needs.
    Memory Voltage-Stock is: Timing 5-5-5-15
    Voltage 1.8 - 2.0 
    I got this to 2.2 and everything was fine.
    I can manually set it to 4-4-4-12 1T as well.
    NB Voltage-I got this as high as I could and it worked great, I think it was 1.7.I heard on forums that the higher you go the better for overclocking. Plus it's got a fan on it stock and I don't care about noise fan at all.
    SB Voltage-I got this to 1.6 and it was fine too. But it's not cooled so how much is too much?
    FSB VTT Voltage-I read that if you go to 20% it stabilizes your rig when
    you overclock, so I set it and it worked great.
    My Setup
    Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 Allendale 1.8GHz
    ZALMAN CNPS9500 LED 92mm 2 Ball Cooling Fan with Heatsink
    Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound 
    MSI P6N SLI Platinum 650i
    G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel
    COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05 Case
    Thermaltake TR2 ATX 430W
    EVGA GeForce 8600GT 256MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card
    Western Digital Caviar SE 160GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb
    $700 exactly with shipping from NEWEGG
    PURE BUDGET BUILD

    Hello welcome to the forum,
    Quote
    System Clock-Auto,Linked,Manual
    Which is best and when to use for what?
    I went to 1333 for a steady 3.0ghz overclock. Temps were below 40C
    at idle and were 65C under full load.
    System clock I believe is how the memory freq is generated. "Auto" would be automatic, "Linked" would be linked to FSB speed, "Manual" wold be manually setting the speed.
    65c on the cores or the CPU? Because if it's the cores, drop down, anywhere over 60c and your CPU may start skipping cycles.
    Quote
    Adjust CPU Ratio-To what?
    Stock shows 9, but can go from 6-9 as well.
    Last night I got to FSB1600
    Mem 800
    with 8x multiplier
    very fast, but lost settings on re-boot. So basically unstable.
    CPU ratio is the multiplier in which you times the FSB speed to generate/set the CPU clock. E.g:
    Code: [Select]
    FSB of 100x10 (cpu ratio) = 1000MHz CPU core speed.
    Quote
    CPU Voltage-Try to not increase this by first overclocking as much as I
    can on stock voltage, but if it becomes unstable or won't boot, I just increase it how I see fit based on stability right? I just want a good bootable computer to use daily for about 3 hours and 48hrs on weekends.
    Not too much into games yet, but will once I get speakers and a better monitor. Mostly business/student needs.
    yes only increase for stability, never increase because you think you may need too.
    Quote
    Memory Voltage-Stock is: Timing 5-5-5-15
    Voltage 1.8 - 2.0
    I got this to 2.2 and everything was fine.
    I can manually set it to 4-4-4-12 1T as well.
    They are fine, just don't go over 2.3v, your RAM chips will start to fry otherwise.
    Quote
    NB Voltage-I got this as high as I could and it worked great, I think it was 1.7.I heard on forums that the higher you go the better for overclocking. Plus it's got a fan on it stock and I don't care about noise fan at all.
    No, wrong way to do it. Do it like CPU VCore, only increase when stability is needed. Also monitor temperatures of NB as much as your CPU. Fan speeds don't bother me either, but temps do! Watch them at all times when overclocking.
    Quote
    SB Voltage-I got this to 1.6 and it was fine too. But it's not cooled so how much is too much?
    Only increase if you need to, the SB core is usually the last voltage that needs increasing.
    Quote
    FSB VTT Voltage-I read that if you go to 20% it stabilizes your rig when
    you overclock, so I set it and it worked great.
    It's the voltage you supply to the FSB bus, too much and you will kill the FSB and your mainboard will be a fancy paper weight. Only increase when stability is needed, just like every other voltage.

  • P6N SLI PLATINUM CMOS BAD CHECKSUM ERROR TIME DATE

    I have the same problem. It’s driving me crazy. Here is my specs:
    MSI P6N SLI Platinum LGA 775
    Intel Core 2 Duo E6420 2.13GHz 4M shared L2 Cache
    Foxconn GeForce 7900GS 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16
    Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD7500AAKS     750GB   7200 RPM
    Kingston  KHX6400D2LLK2/2G   2GB kit   PC2-6400   800MHZ
    LG DVD GSA-H50N  DVD-R 18X
    Matsu"I'm a potty mouth"a Floppy drive
    Windows XP 32-Bit
    CoolerMaster RP-500-PCAR – 500W
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       20A        20A        16A           16A        0.8A     0.8A        2.0A
    Sometimes the computer boots ok, and everything works great.
    Sometimes it just doesn’t boot, it just gives a blank screen. So, I press reset and the post gives the CMOS CHECKSUM BAD. F1 to setup F2 to default.
    If I go to the setup everything is just like I left, including the time. Even if I setup the bios with default configuration, the problem continues.
    Here is a list of everything I have tried
    1) Replaced the battery 2 times. I checked with a multimeter. It’s 3V allright
    2) Disconnected everything leaving only 1GB memory and the graphics card
    3) Updated the bios version several times, to make sure I did it ok. I cleared the CMOS after allright
    4) I read every post in this forum about bios and P6N SLI Platinum
    5) Already checked the D-BRACKET. It shows 4 green leds when the screen is blank
    6) Already checked fans: CPU and graphics fans works ok
    7) Already tested with memtest86+ V2.01
    8) Already upped the northbridge to 1.325V, CPU  3 notches and the memory another 3 notches.
    So anyone has any ideas, or I’ll just have to go to a computer store and swap the graphics or the PSU and try to see if the problem vanishes??? It’s gonna be tough… they don’t like to let you test the merchandise….
    PS: Thanks for all the help so far that you have been giving to TheGimp, after all, we have the same problem…

    I had the same problem after ~8months of trouble free service; it was intermittent too.  sometimes it would boot fine, others times i'd get the error message. I removed the battery to test it. it was fine. i cleared the cmos with the button while the battery was removed. i noticed that the battery holder seems not to be anchored to the board at all. I haven't confirmed this but it looks like the protruding metal clip holds it all together. i had contacted MSI support about the problem earlier. they told me to clear the cmos. i asked about the battery holder not being secure on the board, and, as in the typical support response to an unusual question, they gave me some vague, undecipherable response. So, anyway when i put the battery back in, i felt the holder kind of click into place. I haven't had any problems since.

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