Possible fix for some dlink routers with wifi issues

I found something online that stated that if you turn off a feature called WMM that it can help or fix some wifi issues, and on my dlink dir-268 it seems to be working. Now without this feature turned off I could connect to my wifi but not much else, with it off I have checked websites online and also for the first time been able to download a 300MB+ file. I dont know if it is still used on the newer dlink routers but it could be at least a temp fix for some. For my router it is located under the advanced/ advanced wireless settings
Please post your results if you find this feature on your router, and list what model you have and if it worked so if it fixes problems for enough people mabe we can let dlink know of this find. could help in getting a fix out for the router firm ware or mabe even the android os.

Wouldn't really be a fix... more a workaround. However...
Both my Plus account, and a free test account I set up, don't have reliable push... so I think the problem is a little more complex than this.
While there has been a theory that free accounts work (which I have not experienced), I don't think Apple or Yahoo have ever stated that push was only intended to work for free accounts...

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Wireless Problems: Observations/Possible Fix for Some (No Guarantees)

Hi All:
I have been following our wireless problem threads. To a large extent, they revolve around lost connections, weak signals, etc. On my machine, I previously noticed what appeared to be wide fluctuations in signal strength, although I could almost always pick up one distant network that has to be at least 125' away regardless of my apparent signal strength. Also, I never lost my connection. I also have noticed that my Windows notebooks pick up more networks than my MBP, even though some must be farther away than 125'.
Recently, I had to reinstall all my software. Once resolved I'll explain why and what to look out for. Anyway, before the reinstall, I had done all updates. When I reinstalled, I also did all updates. The bottom line is that I have not seen the wide fluctuations in signal strength since reinstalling. Sometimes I see more networks than I am used to seeing.
Am I suggesting that you reinstall to eliminate the types of problems mentioned above? Definitely not especially if your problem is pretty minor. However, if your problem is significant, then think about it. Perhaps a greater than expected number of partially bad factory installs accounts for some of our problems.
I finished my reinstall only about 24 hours ago. I'll continue to monitor and will post back if I begin to see the wide signal strength fluctuations again.

Nope, thanks. I certainly advocate all trying any possible fixes prior to taking the drastic step of reinstalling. Hope the update works for all. I must of installed it yesterday with a number of other updates. Thus, it wasn't what "fixed" my system. But, it looks like it didn't hurt it either. Both are good to know:) Gosh, and looking at some of the recent posts in this category, I am glad that none of the recent updates hosed anything on my machine. Then, I'd me reinstalling again and being more selective about the updates.
I have to admit I have been throwing caution to the wind on doing all the updates. I think I'd better go back to my old style of seeing if there are update rumblings before I install them.
Message was edited by: donv (The Ghost)
Message was edited by: donv (The Ghost)
Message was edited by: donv (The Ghost)

Possible fix for errors 11503 and 50

Here's a possible fix for Error 11503 and for error 50.
It worked for me and hopefully it will work for you.
I believe this error is caused by the incomplete downloading of either an update to an app. In my case it was caused by closing the lid on my laptop when I was downloading app updates on a very slow internet connection in a hotel.
Anyway, here is what I did that fixed it completely.
Close iTunes.
Go to this folder : /iTunes/Mobile Applications/Downloads
You'll find tmp files there. Drag them out of this folder to a temporary folder on your desktop. The Downloads folder should now be empty.
Restart iTunes.
All should be fine.
If it is, delete the desktop folder with all the temp files.
If it's not, then I can't help further, but that's what worked for me.

Several possible causes from the info you gave
Battery level low - recharge it for at least 4 hours till the full charge sign displays (2 prong icon instead of lightning icon).
Time to Reset the iPod - Press the Menu and center Button for about 10 secs till the Apple logo comes ON, then let go of the buttons.
your hardisk is starting to give problems, hence the skipping and some song refuse to play. - Do a disk diagnostic - follow this post by tt2.
https://discussions.apple.com/message/17028567#17028567
If you have updated any sofware application in Windows, then follow this Apple support procedure
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1539
Most likely you have to do all, as the iPod hardisk filesystem would have been corrupted, or else the iPod Reset would bring it to normal operation.
Good Luck!

What is the fix for some applications repeatedly asking permission to accept incoming connections?

What is the fix for some applications repeatedly asking permission to accept incoming connections?
On every restart, AutoPairs and Epson Event Manager asks me to reject or agree to allow incoming connections. It is very aggravating and time-wasting. I know other Mac users who have the identical problem with other applications on their Macs.
Isn't there some way to make my Mac understand that "Yes" means "Yes" once and for all?
I am presently running Yosemite, but this was a problem with prior OS X versions too.
Respectfully,
Nate

This is a comment on why you might, or might not, want to use the built-in Application Firewall.
The firewall blocks incoming network traffic, regardless of origin, on a per-application basis. By default it's off, and when turned on, it allows applications digitally signed by Apple, and only those applications, to listen on the network. It does not block outgoing traffic, nor can it distinguish between different sources of incoming traffic, nor does it filter traffic by content.
No matter how it's configured, the firewall is not, as some imagine, a malware filter. If that's what you expect it to do, forget it. All it will do is bombard you with pointless alerts.
Consider some scenarios in which you may expect the firewall to be useful.
1. You enable file sharing, and you allow guest access to certain folders. That means you want people on your local network, but not outsiders, to be able to access those shared folders without having to enter a password. In the default configuration, the firewall will allow that to happen. The router prevents outsiders from accessing the shares, whether the application firewall is on or off. But if your computer is portable and you connect it to an untrusted network such as a public hotspot, the firewall will still allow access to anyone, which is not what you want. It does not protect you in this scenario.
2. You unknowingly install a trojan that steals your data and uploads it to a remote server. The firewall, no matter how it's configured, will not block that outgoing traffic. It does nothing to protect you from that threat.
3. A more likely scenario: The web browser or the router is compromised by an attacker. The attack redirects all web traffic to a bogus server. The firewall does not protect you from this threat.
4. You're running a public web server. Your router forwards TCP connection requests on port 80 to your Mac, and the connections are accepted by the built-in web server, which is codesigned by Apple. The application firewall, still configured as above, allows this to happen. An attacker hacks into the system and tries to hijack port 80 and replace the built-in web server with one that he controls. The good news here is that the firewall does protect you; it blocks incoming connections to the malicious server and alerts you. But the bad news is that you've been rooted. The attacker who can do all this can just as easily turn off the firewall, in which case it doesn't protect you after all.
5. You're running a Minecraft server on the local network. It listens on a high-numbered port. You, as administrator, have reconfigured the firewall to pass this traffic. An attacker is able to log in to a standard account on the server. He figures out how to crash Minecraft, or he just waits for you to quit it, and then he binds his own, malicious, Minecraft server to the same port. The firewall blocks his server, and because he's not an administrator, he can't do anything about it. In this scenario, the security is genuine.
6. Here is a more realistic scenario in which you might have reason to enable the firewall. Your MacBook has sharing services enabled. You want those services to be available to others on a home or office network. When you're on those networks, the firewall should be off. When you move to an untrusted network, you can either turn off all the services, or enable the firewall with a non-default configuration to block them. Blocking is easier: one click instead of several.

Possible fix for CPU temp problem found.

Well, one day I decided to take the heatsink off of the nForce3 chip and put some good ol' Arctic Silver thermal compound on there. I figured it might help with overclocking and whatnot. When I took it off, look what I found(!):
Imagine my surprise! Why did they even bother? Ridiculous. After removing their mistake, I put some Arctic Silver on there and re-attached the MSI heatsink (someday I'll probably buy a much better one for it). I've noticed after a couple of days (it takes a little while for the thermal compound to set in) that the CPU temp doesn't appear to fluctuate wildly anymore. Before I was getting crazy jumps from 45C to 65C, but now it hovers around 45C-47C idle and a little over 50C stressed. I've also noticed that my overclocks are a bit more stable now too. For those of you wondering, I'm using BIOS v1.1 at the moment (haven't tried v1.42 yet).
Can anyone confirm these findings? Maybe something else I did fixed my CPU temp issue (I do fiddle with the BIOS quite a bit). My guess is that the nForce3 has a part in determining/reporting the CPU temperature.
I hope this actually is a fix for some of you out there, but don't get your hopes up too high until at least one other person can confirm my theory.

It's very easy to remove the MSI plate. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers pinch the fins on the heat sink on one side together (one at the top, one at the bottom). You don't have to do it too much and be careful. This provides enough slack for the plate to drop out with some slight assistance. Well, that's how I did mine.
I then attached a 40mm fan by screwing into the gaps between the two fins. Only on the one side mind (so 2 screws in total). It holds the fan fine, no rattling.
I have some Artic Silver adhesive and I did consider leaving the MSI plate in place and fixing the fan to it. But I wasn't sure how secure it would be. Plus the plate rattles already, imagine how it would behave with a fan stuck to it.
Unfortunately, I forgot to make a note of the NB temperature before I did it. And I can't for the life of me remember what it was. So I can't say, for sure, how it has effected the temperature. I'm sure it has though.
I suppose it's easy enough to disconnect the fan to find out. I might try that later...
Running at 230x10 (stock = 200x10), MBM reports:
Case = 37C
CPU = 35C
Sensor 3 = 49C
The sensors are labelled by MBM, so I am assuming they respond to the correct items, ie the CPU temp is actually the CPU temp.
This is after a hour or so with Azureus running, mIRC open, a couple of IE windows and SETI running at ~97% CPU
When I take the side off to disconnect the fan again, I will take a picture.

Possible Fix for Printing Problems in Leopard

I got this information from Mac OS X Leopard Edition book by David Pogue. Here's his possible fix for printing problems in Leopard...Open web browser and enter this address http://127.0.0.1:631. You'll find youself at a secret "front end" for CUPS (Common UNIX Printer System), the underlying printing technology for Mac OS X 10.5. This trick lets your Mac communicate with a huge array of older printers that dopn't yet have Mac OS X drivers. Using this administration screen, you can print a test page, stop your printer in its tracks, manage your networked printers and print jobs, and more–a very slick trick. Haven't tried it yet...anyone who does let me know how it worked!

If you literally "checked" them, meaning the checkboxes, that only affects their visibility. To remove them, select one and then click on the "minus" part of the "plus minus" at lower left.
Doug

Possible fix for OS X 10.5.7, losing connection after sleep, restart

Possible fix for OS X 10.5.7, Airport, losing connection after sleep, restart, or cold reboot.
Issue: (For OS X 10.5.7 on iMac5,1, Intel Core 2 Duo)
=============================================
- After sleep, restart, cold reboot, even though cannot connect to Internet, but the AirPort bars are still full, as if connected.
- Losing Internet connection after sleep, restart, cold reboot.
Possible Fix:
1.Open Network Preference, click on the Location drop down list > Edit Location... > click on the wheel button > Duplicate Location.
a)Select this newly setup location; Use Diagnostic button to connect to the internet. Select Network or enter WEP password if necessary.
b)Test to make sure you can connect to a web page.
c)Go to sleep & wake up.
d)This time, the Airport bar will start to show correctly. Before, it will always be full even when not connected. Now there will be no bars or grey out when not connected.
2.On the left hand side of the Network Preference Window, there is a list of services, such as Airport, build-in ethernet, built-in FireWire, bluetooth, etc.
a)Click on the wheel button on the bottom of the service list; select Set Service Order...; move Airport to the top of the list.
b)Delete any services which you are sure that you are not going to use, such as Bluetooth, etc.
3.Pick one of the locations mentioned in #1, and make it sure it is connected. If not, use Diagnostic button. If you have to select Network or enter WEP password to connect, make it so.
a)Check to make sure you can connect to a web page.
4.Go to sleep & wake up. The Airport bar should be filled up quickly. Try to connect to a web page.
5.Restart computer. Test a web page.
6.Shut down & Start computer. Test a web page.
7.When everything is working fine, you can delete the extra location that you created in step #1.
8.Click the lock on the left lower corner of the Network Preference window to safeguard the setting.

If my assessment is correct, the LIDE 200 driver is version 14.8.1 and dated 26-Sep-2008. It is possible that the driver will not work with the latest version of OSX. I would advise that you contact Canon and ask them the question.
(Removed link because of the way Flash drives the Canon site).
It is not uncommon (though irritating) that devices no longer work when an OS is upgraded. One has to ask the question if (or why) the driver was not written in such a way as to be OS version independent.
Chris
I spoke to Canon over here in Australia. Not helpful at all. In fact they were about as useful as an ashtray on on motorcycle. Having said that the tech seemed to think that there would be an update soon. But that is assuming that Canon are aware that there is a problem with that Scanner under OS X 10.5.7.
Message was edited by: 2point5

I just bought a new Motorola modem. Do I need to reconfigure my Airport Express? For some reason we have WiFi even though the amber light is blinking.

I just bought a new Motorola modem. Do I need to reconfigure my Airport Express? For some reason we have WiFi even though the amber light is blinking.

Typically, when changing out networking hardware, it is always a good idea to perform a complete power reset of all of your networking equipment.
I would recommend that you do the following as a minimum:
Power-down the modem, AirPort base station, and computer(s).
Power-up the modem; wait at least 10-15 minutes to allow it adequate time to initialize.
Power-up the AirPort base station; wait at least 5-10 minutes. Note: The AirPort's status light may continue to flash amber after it has intialized. That is because, there may be some additional configuration items necessary, like setting up wireless security, before the overall setup is completed to get a green status.
Power-up your computer(s).
If the above steps do not solve the problem, start over with step 1 above, but then perform the next steps between steps 1 & 2. above.
Disconnect the AirPort base station from the Internet broadband modem.
While all of the devices are powered-down, perform a "factory default" reset on the base station. This will get it back to its "out-of-the-box" configuration and make setting it up much easier, especially if you use the "Assist me" process within the AirPort Utility. (ref: Resetting an AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule)
After the base station resets, go ahead and power it back down.
Reconnect the AirPort base station to the Internet broadband modem. For the Extreme and Time Capsule, be sure to connect the cable to the base station's WAN (circle-of-dots) port.
Continue with step 2 in the first set of steps.
In this basic configuration, the AirPort base station will broadcast an unsecured wireless network with a Network Name (SSID) of Apple Network NNNNNN. Network clients, connected to the base station either by wire or wireless, should now be able to access the Internet through the ISP's modem. Once Internet connectivity has been verified, you can use the AirPort Utility to configure the base station for wireless security and any other desired options. Please post back your results.

Will there be a fix for Firefox's problems with Hotmail. I have gone back to 3.5.9 but mostly I am disappointed by the lack of action on this serious problem where a major and critical feature of a major international website is unavailable in the Firefox

Will there be a fix for Firefox's problems with Hotmail. I have gone back to 3.5.9 but mostly I am disappointed by the lack of action on this serious problem where a major and critical feature of a major international website is unavailable in the Firefox browser.
== URL of affected sites ==
http://www.hotmail.com

We've reached out to the Hotmail team and they've determined that this is a bug in their code. (It was masked by a timing issue in 3.5 that was fixed in 3.6.) We've worked with them to develop a fix but they may not have deployed it yet.

[svn:fx-trunk] 10229: Fixes for some transform effects problems.

Revision: 10229
Author:   [email protected]
Date:     2009-09-14 08:43:43 -0700 (Mon, 14 Sep 2009)
Log Message:
Fixes for some transform effects problems.
- We were not animating the postLayout properties in some cases where we should have, effectively pinning the object in place. We now animate those properties whenever applyChangesPostLayout is true.
- A copy/paste error meant that we did not animate the scaleZ property in cases where we should have.
- A problem in the transform code means that using a null transform center is not the same as a transform center which uses the transformX/Y/Z properties of the target object. We now force the creation/use of a transform center in all cases to avoid that problem.
QE notes: This breaks about a dozen tests in the transform effects area, but I believe the new results are correct and the tests/bitmaps should be changed.
Doc notes: None
Bugs: sdk-23177
Reviewer: Hans
Tests run: checkintests, Mustella transform effects
Is noteworthy for integration: No
Ticket Links:
    http://bugs.adobe.com/jira/browse/sdk-23177
Modified Paths:
    flex/sdk/trunk/frameworks/projects/spark/src/spark/effects/AnimateTransform.as

[svn:fx-trunk] 11223: * Quick fix for some mxmlcunit failures.

Revision: 11223
Author:   [email protected]
Date:     2009-10-28 07:12:00 -0700 (Wed, 28 Oct 2009)
Log Message:
Quick fix for some mxmlcunit failures.
QE notes:
Doc notes:
Bugs: SDK-23865
Reviewer: Gaurav
Tests run: checkintests
Is noteworthy for integration: No
Code-level description of changes:
Added null destination check to completeTwoWayBindings().
Ticket Links:
    http://bugs.adobe.com/jira/browse/SDK-23865
Modified Paths:
    flex/sdk/trunk/modules/compiler/src/java/flex2/compiler/mxml/rep/MxmlDocument.java

Possible fix for problems with Location Services!!!!

Alright, I had just bought a brand new iPod Touch 5th Generation and was having trouble with any app that used Location services (Siri, Weather, Maps, etc) and it was driving me absolutely crazy. Now, I live in a very VERY rural area in Pennsylvania (basically the middle of nowhere) and my new iTouch kept saying "cannot determine location" no matter what app I was using that utilized Location Services. After 4-5 days straight of searching various websites looking for help (including this one), I came up completely empty handed and had pretty much given up on getting it to work correctly. Somewhere along the line, I found out about Skyhook Wireless and the process for adding my wireless network to their database. I thought to myself "What the heck? It can't hurt to at least try..." even after reading on multiple websites that Apple no longer works with Skyhook. So I gave it a shot,..
I went to the following website: http://skyhookwireless.com/howitworks/submit_ap.php
I entered my address into the first empty text field and then clicked the "MAP IT" button.
It deteremined where I was (pretty darn accurately if I say so myself) so I moved on and entered my Wireless Router's MAC Address in the corresponding field.
Then I entered my email address in the corresponding field, completed the CAPTCHA, and hit "SUBMIT".
I received an email a few moments later from Skyhook letting me know they had successfully received my submission and then I sat back for a few moments, crossing my fingers and hoping for the sake of my sanity that it had worked.
After about an hour or so, I tried to get my local weather using the Weather app that comes pre-installed on iOS. Still, it couldn't find my current location. the Maps app gave me the same result.
I sat here planning my next course of action and came up with...you guessed it....nothing!
I said screw it and went about my business for the day. A few days went by and I was visiting a very good friend of mine and I had my iTouch with me. Now my friend lives even further in the sticks than I do but for some unknown and shocking reason, my location services worked PERFECT at their house (every single app I tried that in one way or another used Location Services, it worked every time) so I asked my friend if it would be alright with them to go grab my wireless router and switch with them for a day or two, just as a last ditch effort for the sake of science and my own sanity. They said it wouldn't be a problem at all. So we traded wireless routers for a day or two.
Upon hooking their router up at my house and using the Weather & Maps apps, it still showed up that I was still at their house and showed the local weather for the town that was nearest to them. I was like "Hey, it's better than nothing!" so I left it go for a day or two.
Upon arriving at my friends house to grab my original router and give them back their original router, I checked my iTouch and, lo & behold, it showed my home as my current location and the correct local weather for the city/town closest to my home address, even though I was at their house. I felt so dumbfounded and almost cried because I had actually gotten it to work. I unhooked my original router, hooked my friend's back up, and it showed up that I was exactly where I was supposed to be - at my friend's house.
I brought my original router back to my house, hooked it up and Cha-CHING! It WORKED!!!!! It showed that I was at my house and showed the correct local weather.
And there you have it, How I was able to solve my location services woes.
I'm not saying it will help out everybody else's location service problems but it is worth a shot, it worked for me.
If this DOES help anyone else out, please reply so as to confirm that it wasn't just me that it works for.

Thank you @sberman for a fast replay, I read the article, but still it doesn't explain why it doesn't show at least that I'm in Europe,while my android phone,having set just wifi as location reference, shows my position at 1km accurately(I don't live in a city,that's why such a big radius) in Google Maps.I also saw the time zone, if I set it automatically,detection through wifi doesn't work, it just keeps refreshing.

A possible fix for adobe reader icons on windows 2000 with SP4

*This is not a problem! I am posting here because I have received help from some other part of this problem and I have read in other places where people have problems with making the pdf icon appear.*
If the icons won't show after installing adobe reader 9 on your computer, then there is a possible fix you guys can try. Right click on 'Start' for explorer or click on 'My Computer'.
Click Tools > Folder Options > File Types (tab)
Try to find the pdf extension in that long list of extensions.
Below the 'Change...' button, it should read 'Restore' (i'm not sure about this). Click on it once so that it should now read 'Advanced'.
The restore function is to restore the icons to those files which have lost their identities, so to speak.

No issues when setting back as per you instruction below.
Thank you very much.
Why would I have such an experience in the first place?
Rgds,
Dave

A POSSIBLE FIX FOR RE1000 CONNECTION ISSUES!

My Amazon Review for the Linksys RE1000:
I have been an Amazon customer for several years and this is my first review ever. I'm only taking the time to post this review due to my utter frustration with this product.
Here are the bullet points of my experience.
1) I consider myself to be extremely tech savvy and pride myself on having the patience to eventually get technology to work.
2) I have purchased two of these units. I returned the first one out of frustration (also wanted to rule out a defective unit) and spent countless hours trying to make the second one work. As many reviewers have stated this unit constantly drops the router/internet connection. Mine never lasted for more than two minutes at best. It just constantly cycled the connection on and off over and over again.
3) Linksys Tech Support is provided by foreign nations and proved totally worthless.
4) I literally tried every tech suggestion I could find online via Google. I did my best to leave no stone unturned assuming somewhere there had to be an answer. If you can find a suggestion online, believe me, I tried it.
5) After 6 hours with my second unit, VICTORY! Through a rigorous trial and error process I FINALLY GOT MY UNIT TO WORK!!!
6) My solution (not sure if it's going to be everyone's): 1 - Flash the unit with the most updated firmware via the support site (using an Ethernet cable). 2 - Download the auto setup program from the Linksys website and run it following all the instructions. 3 - Here's the MAGIC TRICK that worked for me. Once you have it set up and running you are free to change any setting in the firmware EXCEPT "WPS" under "Wi-Fi Protected Setup" which is under "Basic Wireless Settings". I REPEAT in the "Wi-Fi Protected Setup" under "Basic Wireless Settings", "WPS" must REMAIN ENABLED and LEFT SET AS IT IS during the auto setup. 4 - Use a static IP address and 20 Mhz only for channel width to ensure a stable connection and to minimize wireless interference. 5 - Verify the proper strength and quality of the signal under "WLAN Statistics" and reposition the unit (and/or change the router channel) as necessary.
7) I have TESTED this multiple times, turning the WPS on and off repeatedly. My connection drops or stays active based ONLY upon this setting (even after plugging and unplugging the unit from the electrical socket). I can literally set my watch by it. No other setting has this negative effect and I've changed them all.
8) I suspect half of the reviews are positive regarding this unit because many are simply using the auto setup successfully and then leaving their settings untouched. Unwittingly touch the wrong setting (WPS) and you're back to square one with a useless gray box.
9) This unit has the potential to be an excellent product, instead it's a nightmare to deal with. My guess is it's a victim of lousy firmware and lousy quality control via Linksys. The shame is it could probably be quickly fixed with a simple firmware update.
10) I hope this review helps others with their frustrations. I'd be curious to know.

PS: One last tip! If you really want to play it safe, be sure set your router's LAN IP address to anything other than 192.168.1.1 (use 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.2.1 or 192.168.107.1 for example). That is the default address for the RE1000 and it's been known to cause an IP conflict with many routers that use the same default IP address. Apparently changing the static IP address on the RE1000 is not enough, as the default IP address of 192.168.1.1 still adheres to the RE1000 (hidden somehow) even after the fact for some unknown reason.

Fix for the Identity change with Siri

After trying all different ways to sync my phone and my wife's Iphone through the cloud sharing contacts and calenders, I think I have the fix for the identity change that Siri does. I turned off the contact sync on iCloud and it stopped swapping identities. I think that sharing contacts makes the iCloud think there is only one user. Downside of the cloud but not worth the hassle factor. I will sync contacts through iTunes.

gmiller0 wrote:
My mac has 10.7.3 and will not connect to wifi after it wakes up. Have contacted AppleCare but the problem cannot seem to be resolved.. I guess this is a major issue with Lion:(
What model of Mac? I have a MBP running 10.7.3 and do not have that issue. From the other couple of posts I've seen about it, it seems to be maybe an issue with some iMacs? Have your tried searching the Lion or iMac forums for similar issues, just to see if anyone has hit on why it is happening?

Possible fix for some dlink routers with wifi issues

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