Problem using Acrobat Pro with Chrome 41.0.2272.118

This works in IE and Firefox but not in Chrome; When I double click on an attachment on my dashbord, only while in Chrome, It tries to open in it's own pdf viewer or Acrobat Reader depending on what plug-in is enabled.. I want to open pdf's in Acrobat X Pro. I have Edit-Prefs-"Display PDF in Browser" selected and the pointer set to Acrobat XPro. I tried disabling both Chrome pdf viewer and the Acrobat Reader Plug-Ins and now it sends me to save the attachment. This adds many steps to what is a single Point & Click in FF or IE. I need the full functionallity of A-X Pro. I have to do this many times in a day. Saving to my internal drive and reopening from there will waste a lot of time in a day.

Hi,
1. To change the scan mode to ADF, you can change it on MAC under the Scan-Modus dropdown in ICA Window (Second window in snapshot)
2. I think you are able to scan both sides automatically using Samsung SCX scanner as the scanner is a duplex scanner. Currently Acrobat automatically scans only front side for simplex scanner and scans both sides for duplex scanner and the option for scan sides is disabled for ICA
In case your scanner stops scanning in flatbed mode, please try to scan with the system scanner to see if it is not due to scanning at a very high DPI
I think this solves your problems.

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BTW: whats with this ÎÎ¹ÎºÎµ stuff.
As for Adobe/HP.
They have had a long running feud of Sorts for years running.
there was a very long period that spanned several versions of Acrobat, and HP Print Driver Updates. where every time adobe issued an update for Acrobat. Hp had to turn around and issue an update to their print Drivers.
The controversy swilled around If a Pdf was printed through acrobat or Reader to an Hp Printer all you would se was a series of very fine line screwed sideways much like looking at a TV screen the Horizontal hold adjustment was out of whack.
I'm sure Aandi , and Mike as well as myself posting thousands of times over the years to use the work around of going to print menu advanced and choosing print as image. And if it cleared the problem, to get on the horn with HP and let them know their driver was broken.
HP would fix it it work for a month and Adobe would do another update, and the same thing would happen.
It would be like the joke about Peat and repeat sat on a fence. If Peat fell off who's left? Pete. Then you would say repeat. And the person telling everything would repeat until you caught on.
You would think that a Software That depending highly on how printers would print would actually have sample of printers from the printer vendors to test on.
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David,
When you print to PDF (or Distill in two steps), your transparency gets flattened BEFORE the PDF is made, so the transparency is not really there, just the "appearance" of the transparency. Exporting to PDF 1.4 (Acrobat 5) or later keeps the transparency "Live" in the PDF so that flattening can be handled in the RIP, as well as eliminating flattening artifacts (referred to as stitching, which appear as thin white lines along the borders of transparent regions in front of a colored background) during on-screen viewing.
Although Illustrator is not a general purpose PDF editing tool, it can be instructive to do a little demonstration of the difference in the structure of the same file exported and printed to PDF. Start by placing a photograph as a background, then use one of InDesign's shape tools to put a filled shape in front of the photo, and apply a drop shadow to the shape. Export and print using the Press Quality preset (which will keep the transparency live in the export, but the printed PDF will be flattened, despite its PDF 1.4 compatibility).
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Hi Memalyn
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We have a PDF built from AcroForm using Acrobat Pro. There is a listbox with text in Chinese.The listbox event.changeEx is not giving proper index, when the text in the list is all in Chinese. The same PDF returns index if all the text in the list is in English.
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Was waiting for response in https://forums.adobe.com/message/7421397#7421397.
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Here's a slightly better version.
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Before buying a second-hand computer, you should have run Apple Diagnostics or the Apple Hardware Test, whichever is applicable.
The first thing to do after buying the computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You—not the original owner—must do that. Changes made by Apple over the years have made this seemingly straightforward task very complex.
How you go about it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
It's unsafe, and may be unlawful, to use a computer with software installed by a previous owner.
1. If you don't own another Mac
a. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller—not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine is very old and has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
b. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for a MacBook Air. You should have received the media from the original owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To start up from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then restart the computer and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
c. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should start up in Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
d. Some 2010-2011 models shipped with OS X 10.6 and received a firmware update after 10.7 was released, enabling them to use Internet Recovery. If you have one of those models, you can't reinstall 10.6 even from the original media, and Internet Recovery will not work either without the original owner's Apple ID. In that case, contact Apple Support, or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to have the OS installed.
2. If you do own another Mac
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to prepare a USB device, then start up the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can start from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
3. Partition and install OS X
a. If you see a lock screen when trying to start up from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
b. Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive—not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
c. An unusual problem may arise if all the following conditions apply:
          OS X 10.7 or later was installed by the previous owner
          The startup volume was encrypted with FileVault
          You're booted in Recovery mode (that is, not from a 10.6 installation disc)
In that case, you won't be able to unlock the volume or partition the drive without the FileVault password. Ask for guidance or see this discussion.
d. After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. If you're installing a version of OS X acquired from the App Store, you will need the Apple ID and password that you used. When the installation is done, the system will automatically restart into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
e. Run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the original owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed—you have to repurchase them.
4. Other issues
a. If the original owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're irrevocably linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
b. If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
c. When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a lifetime limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an iCloud account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information. The setup limit doesn't apply to Apple ID accounts used for other services, such as the iTunes and Mac App Stores, or iMessage. You can create as many of those accounts as you like.

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