ProtectTools issue: Decrypting an encrypted ProtectTools HDD when windows will not boot.

Windows updates happened. Now the PC won't boot. Unfortunately, the HD is encrypted using the ProtectTools. While I can boot from the Win7 CD, I can't touch the OS partition since it's encrypted. I found the DiskTech2012.iso which I had hoped would be my salvation. This does boot but when I run "EETech for HPPT 7.0" the selection box says "Authentication Status: Not Authenticated. Activation Status: inactive" and won't let me click on any of the options.
Since I don't see the HP ProtectTools password screen when booting from CD, I'm assuming the above is because I haven't entered the password. If I go through the normal boot sequence and authenticate, I don't get to boot from the CD. Seems like a catch-22. How the heck am I supposed to get authenticated so that I can then decrypt the drive? I've got the USB key for this drive, I just want to be able to use it.
One thing is for sure, I won't ever use HP ProtectTools again.

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How do I get recover disc for vista when system will not boot???? For Pavilion pc a6157c

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Read THIS HP Support Document concerning ordering recovery discs for your HP a6157c. Go to THIS HP webpage to order the "Vista Home Premium 32bit 73NAv3PrA1 + Supp 4 Recovery Kit" for your computer. If you are not looking to order the recovery discs or have some other issue with your computer, please provide detailed information concerning the problem.
Frank
Frank
{------------ Please click the "White Kudos" Thumbs Up to say THANKS for helping.
Please click the "Accept As Solution" on my post, if my assistance has solved your issue. ------------V
This is a user supported forum. I am a volunteer and I don't work for HP.
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Windows will not boot (SSD in optibay with OSX/Window, HDD in main bay for Mac storage)

Main bay: HDD for storage (Mac-formatted)
Optibay: SSD for operating systems
Version: OSX Yosemite
Description of issue:
I removed power from internal HDD so Windows install would work properly on SSD. I didn't think/realize that once it was installed and I plugged internal HDD back in that I would not be able to boot into Windows.
This is where I am now:
Last login: Tue Apr 7 00:00:16 on ttys000
Austins-MacBook-Pro:~ austinmarti$ diskutil list
/dev/disk0
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *480.1 GB   disk0
   1:                        EFI EFI                     209.7 MB   disk0s1
   2:          Apple_CoreStorage                         319.2 GB   disk0s2
   3:                 Apple_Boot Recovery HD             650.0 MB   disk0s3
   4:       Microsoft Basic Data BOOTCAMP                160.0 GB   disk0s4
/dev/disk1
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *1.0 TB     disk1
   1:                        EFI EFI                     209.7 MB   disk1s1
   2:                  Apple_HFS 1TB Internal HDD        999.9 GB   disk1s2
/dev/disk2
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:                  Apple_HFS Stealth SSD            *318.9 GB   disk2
                                 Logical Volume on disk0s2
                                 98832CC2-D844-438A-BBBC-2861CCB21B35
                                 Unencrypted
Austins-MacBook-Pro:~ austinmarti$ diskutil cs list
CoreStorage logical volume groups (1 found)
|
+-- Logical Volume Group 3F0B9078-5B88-473E-8BE0-AD1B401D1B5F
    =========================================================
    Name:         Stealth SSD
    Status:       Online
    Size:         319244222464 B (319.2 GB)
    Free Space:   18907136 B (18.9 MB)
    |
    +-< Physical Volume 8B88188C-3DB7-49CB-8335-24563D7B0C9B
    |   ----------------------------------------------------
    |   Index:    0
    |   Disk:     disk0s2
    |   Status:   Online
    |   Size:     319244222464 B (319.2 GB)
    |
    +-> Logical Volume Family 53E2A31F-BA81-4969-9041-5A82D182C4F3
        Encryption Status:       Unlocked
        Encryption Type:         None
        Conversion Status:       NoConversion
        Conversion Direction:    -none-
        Has Encrypted Extents:   No
        Fully Secure:            No
        Passphrase Required:     No
        |
        +-> Logical Volume 98832CC2-D844-438A-BBBC-2861CCB21B35
            Disk:                  disk2
            Status:                Online
            Size (Total):          318872993792 B (318.9 GB)
            Conversion Progress:   -none-
            Revertible:            Yes (no decryption required)
            LV Name:               Stealth SSD
            Volume Name:           Stealth SSD
            Content Hint:          Apple_HFS
Austins-MacBook-Pro:~ austinmarti$ sudo gpt -vv -r show /dev/disk0
gpt show: /dev/disk0: mediasize=480103981056; sectorsize=512; blocks=937703088
gpt show: /dev/disk0: Suspicious MBR at sector 0
gpt show: /dev/disk0: Pri GPT at sector 1
gpt show: error: bogus map
gpt show: unable to open device '/dev/disk0': Undefined error: 0
Austins-MacBook-Pro:~ austinmarti$ sudo gpt -vv -r show /dev/disk1
gpt show: /dev/disk1: mediasize=1000204886016; sectorsize=512; blocks=1953525168
gpt show: /dev/disk1: PMBR at sector 0
gpt show: /dev/disk1: Pri GPT at sector 1
gpt show: /dev/disk1: Sec GPT at sector 1953525167
       start        size index contents
           0           1         PMBR
           1           1         Pri GPT header
           2          32         Pri GPT table
          34           6
          40      409600             1 GPT part - C12A7328-F81F-11D2-BA4B-00A0C93EC93B
      409640 1952853344     2 GPT part - 48465300-0000-11AA-AA11-00306543ECAC
1953262984      262151
1953525135          32         Sec GPT table
1953525167           1          Sec GPT header
Austins-MacBook-Pro:~ austinmarti$ sudo fdisk /dev/disk0
Disk: /dev/disk0 geometry: 58369/255/63 [937703088 sectors]
Signature: 0xAA55
         Starting       Ending
#: id cyl hd sec - cyl hd sec [     start -       size]
1: EE 1023 254 63 - 1023 254 63 [         1 -     409639] <Unknown ID>
2: AC 1023 254 63 - 1023 254 63 [    409640 - 623523872] <Unknown ID>
3: AB 1023 254 63 - 1023 254 63 [ 623933512 -    1269536] Darwin Boot
*4: 07 1023 254 63 - 1023 254 63 [ 625203200 - 312496128] HPFS/QNX/AUX
Austins-MacBook-Pro:~ austinmarti$ sudo fdisk /dev/disk1

I had boot camp set up previously, but I think this may have been before I installed the SSD, and maybe I just had it running on the HDD.
I've seen what seems like this same issue posted many, many times, where it is an issue of Windows seeing a GPT partition/drive, so it won't boot. Is that not what's going on for me, too?
1. I have Paragon NTFS for Mac OS X v12.2.313
2. Yes.
3. I can only see the Mac partition (but when I hold option when booting, I can choose Windows from there. Will boot if HDD unplugged) :

Security change hdd. MacBook will not boot.

Hi all,
I am in some real need for help.
Yesterday i changed the security of my macbook(aluminium) because i am at a hotel with wifi.
(selected in Finder "this computer" pressed command-i, and in information checked the option "secure.")
At night i shut down my mac without problems. But this morning it does not boot up anymore.
All i get is the grey screen with Apple logo and spinning progress wheel. It stays in this mode until eternity.
In verbose mode i checked fsck -f and it said at the end HD is OK. So I recon that there is nothing wrong with
my hdd in itself. (thought at first that hdd would be chrashed).
Anybody any ideas?
Can i undo the security in verbose mode and what is the command line?
Thanks for all the help. Am in czech republic so not able to go to my usual mac shop.
Jake (written with iPhone)

Tough without the Install disc, but some things to try...
Does it boot to Single User Mode, CMD+s keys at bootup, if so try...
/sbin/fsck -fy
Repeat until it shows no errors fixed.
(Space between fsck AND -fy important).
Resolve startup issues and perform disk maintenance with Disk Utility and fsck...
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214
Tough without the Tiger Disk problems, but try fsck...
To use fsck, you must run it from the command line. Unlike using your mouse to open an application to do something, you'll need to type a text command at the prompt (#) to tell fsck what to do. The Terminal application (/Applications/Utilities) and single-user mode are two examples of command-line interfaces in which you can type such commands. To use fsck:
1. Start up your computer in single-user mode to reach the command line. Hold CMD+s keys down at bootup. Note: If necessary, perform a forced restart as described in the Emergency Troubleshooting Handbook that came with your computer. On desktop computers, you can do this by pressing the reset/interrupt button (if there is one) or holding down the power button for several seconds. On portable computers, simultaneously press the Command-Control-power keys. If your portable computer doesn't restart with this method, you may need to reset the Power Manager.
2. At the command-line prompt, type /sbin/fsck -fy
(SPACE between fsck AND -fy important)
3. Press Return. fsck will go through five "phases" and then return information about your disk's use and fragmentation. Once it finishes, it'll display this message if no issue is found: 
The volume (nameofvolume) appears to be OK  If fsck found issues and has altered, repaired, or fixed anything, it will display this message: *** FILE SYSTEM WAS MODIFIED ***   Important: If this message appears, repeat the fsck command you typed in step 2 until fsck tells you that your volume appears to be OK (first-pass repairs may uncover additional issues, so this is a normal thing to do).
4. When fsck reports that your volume is OK, type reboot at the prompt and then press Return.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214

Ipad2 water damage how to bypass password when device will not boot up

imac will recognize ipad, but unable to back up or get files due to unit not able to boot up and enter password
any suggestion s

Try this - Reset the iPad by holding down on the Sleep and Home buttons at the same time for about 10-15 seconds until the Apple Logo appears - ignore the red slider - let go of the buttons. (This is equivalent to rebooting your computer.) No data/files will be erased. http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1430
Frozen or unresponsive iPad
Resolve these most common issues:
    •    Display remains black or blank
    •    Touch screen not responding
    •    Application unexpectedly closes or freezes
http://www.apple.com/support/ipad/assistant/ipad/
iPad Frozen, not responding, how to fix
http://appletoolbox.com/2012/07/ipad-frozen-not-responding-how-to-fix/
What to Do When Your iPad Won't Turn On
http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Troubleshooting/ss/What-To-Do-When-Your-Ipad-Wo-No t-Turn-On.htm
iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3281
Apple's Limited Warranty http://www.apple.com/legal/warranty/ for iPad excludes coverage for damage resulting from accident, disassembly, unauthorized service and unauthorized modifications.
The warranty will apply to the country of purchase. And if there is a problem needing repair you have to return it to the country of purchase.
Out-of-Warranty Service
     If you own an iPad that is ineligible for warranty service but is eligible for Out-of-Warranty (OOW) Service, Apple will replace (Apple doesn't repair) your iPad with an iPad that is new or equivalent to new in both performance and reliability for the Out-of-Warranty Service fee listed below. (The replacement will most likely be a refurbished iPad in a brown box, however, it has a new screen, back and battery.)
iPad model
Out-of-Warranty Service Fee
iPad mini
$219
iPad 3rd, 4th, Air
$299
iPad 2, iPad
$249
A $6.95 shipping fee will be added if service is arranged through Apple and requires shipping. All fees are in US dollars and are subject to local tax.
Certain damage is ineligible for out-of-warranty service, including catastrophic damage, such as the device separating into multiple pieces, and inoperability caused by unauthorized modifications. However, an iPad that has failed due to contact with liquid may be eligible for out-of-warranty service. See http://support.apple.com/kb/index?page=servicefaq&geo=United_States&product=ipad
Make a Genius Bar Reservation
http://www.apple.com/retail/geniusbar/
You may can get the iPad repaired at 3rd party repair sources for less $, however, any remaining Apple warranty will be voided.
iCracked - Broken iPhone, iPod or iPad
http://www.icracked.com/
iReVamp Electronics Screen Repair ($99)
http://www.irevampelectronics.com/ipad-2-broken-glass-screen-repair.html
iPad Repair & Screen Replacement Services
http://www.ifixyouri.com/16-ipad-repairs
RepairZoom iPad Repair
http://www.repairzoom.com/ipad-repair.html
Mission Repair
http://www.missionrepair.com/Apple_iPad_Repair_Services_s/431.htm
iGadgetResQ
http://www.igadgetresq.com/ipad-repair/
Do It Yourself iPad Repair
http://www.ifixit.com/Device/iPad
 Cheers, Tom

Windows 8 and Canvio Desk 3TB: System will not boot when external hdd is connected

http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Desktop-Operating-Systems-e-g/HP-PAVILION-A6109N-amp-windows-8-System-w...
Hi,
just recently upgraded to Win Pro on my HP PAVILION A6109N. I also bought a toshiba canvio desk 3TB. What I notice is that if I reboot my pc with the extermnal HDD connected, my system will not boot.
I have check my BIOS boot settings and the order of the boot.
I have tried disabling USB Legacy Support in the BIOS
I have reformatted the external HDD
but still my desktop will not boot if the external HDD is connected....If I disconnect the external HDD...the system will boot up ....
I am at a loss....*** scratching my head ***

Update: The only solution for me was to format the drive as ext3 and plug it into one of my Asus RT-N66U USB ports, as most routers don’t yet recognize 3TB drives as NTFS. It’s not much help to people who don’t have a router with this capability, and it also slows transfer rates to ~12MB/s.
Given the short length of the cable, your only other options are to have the 3TB Canvio sitting right next to you so you can unplug from a front USB port before each boot, or place it towards the rear of your desk and crawl under the desk to disconnect it from your PC prior to each boot.
It's a pity because Toshiba produce great internal HDD's, but my experience when it comes to external drives is they're simply junk. I wish I had read the reviews before purchasing.

Windows will not load on a Satellite A350 with 500GB Seagate external HDD

There is an issue with this A350-043 Laptop running Windows Vista Home Premium 64Bits, part number : PSAL6C-04S015
Simply put: when connected to a SEAGATE 9NK2AL-510 500GB SATA DRIVE EXTERNAL USB (s/n: 5QG1YH1E) Windows will not load, it goes upto and freeze just prior to the green moving bars. If the USB cord is pulled out and put back in for a second, Windows continues to load normally and all is well.
Otherwise, the OS will take up to 15 minutes to load. Looking in the BIOS features, there is no option to boot from USB available, so it cannot be disabled. I have upgraded the BIOS of the Toshiba to the latest version with no change in that issue.
I have tested and confirmed that the issue persist no matter which USB port is used.
The external drive is fully fonctional and there is no errors or issues with it when Windows is loaded. I am reported this issue to Seagate as well as Toshiba in the hopes that a solution can be offered on that, but did not hear back on anything as yet.

You mean the notebook needs 15min to load the Windows OS even if the external HDD is not connected?
This sounds weird and I doubt this can be related to any software issue
First of all you should check the booting order in the BIOS the USB should be set at last or second last position.
Secondly you should check if the same issue would still persist after an new OS installation in some cases the booting procedure could be affected due to installed software and background processes.
But if the new OS installation does not help and if the issue will still persists then I assume that an hardware problem (motherboard????) could be the reason for that and therefore an notebook technician should be contacted!!!
Thats my opinion

IMac will not boot up when printer is plugged in USB

After buying my new iMac (with Tiger) I successfully transfered everything from my old iMac (with Panther) and all was well.
The problem is that when my printer (Canon Pixma MP130) is plugged in on start up, the iMac will not boot up (no gears turning on the white/grey screen). When I unplug the printer from the USB and start it up, it works fine. Its not a super big deal because I can just plug the printer in when I need it. But why does it do this?
I foound on the internet someone else who had the same issues. It was suggested to him to search the printer manufacturers website for updated drivers. I did this, installed them etc..... still no luck.
I am without any mac guru's here in Yellowknife......help!
Angie

Hello there,
I hope it is OK to recycle this old thread.  I did not want to create a new one since I am experiencing the exact same issue as the original poster *flying girl* as well as other posters in the following threads:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=4190807
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3950255
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=4201169
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=4490899&#4490899
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=4470944
I have two Macs, a PowerBook G4 and an Intel iMac 20" (Aluminum)--please refer to my signature or profile for the specs of these machines.  Of course, I got the PowerBook before I got the iMac.  I am running the latest version of the Canon MP130 drivers, printer drivers version 4.8.3 and scanner drivers version 12.11.0, on both machines.
When I turn on my PowerBook with the Canon PIXMA MP130 multifunction turned ON and connected via USB to the PowerBook, the PowerBook boots up just fine.  I have even experimented with both a USB hub and a direct connection to the Canon MP130, and the PowerBook boots fine in both instances.
However, when I turn on my iMac with the Canon MP130 turned ON and connected via USB to the iMac, the startup tone plays, and then the iMac hangs at the blue/gray solid screen--it does not even show the Apple logo or the spokes--that is, until I turn the Canon MP130 OFF.  When I turn it off, the Apple logo appears, the spokes move, and my iMac boots up just fine.  And as long as the MP130 is OFF, I can boot the iMac fine from scratch too.
I tried starting in verbose mode (⌘V) and single-user mode (⌘S), and the gray/blue screen still appears after the startup tone plays; again, if I turn the Canon MP130 OFF, the rest of the boot sequence resumes as normal, and only then do I get to see the descriptive text for those startup modes.  But the text goes by so fast that I miss most of it--I did manage to catch something that said something like "get full config descriptor = NULL," but I am not sure if that was the exact wording.  I would need a good camcorder or even just a digital camera or another device to capture exactly what the screen says in verbose mode.  If I had those options, I would post pictures here.
I was thinking about contacting Canon, but since the issue happens on one Mac only, I figured they would tell me that it is a problem with my Mac.  So hopefully posting the information here is OK.
Another key feature is that the Canon MP130 has a built-in card reader.  I made sure that my Startup Disk preferences were set to boot from the system drive, and they still are.  And I have reset the SMC and PRAM on the iMac.
I would like to mention the following link:
http://www.ehmac.ca/anything-mac/50389-intel-imac-wont-boot-when-canon-printer-p lugged.html
If you go to page 2 on that above thread, it shows one user who allegedly physically disconnected the card reader connection from the inside of the Canon MP130 (I would NOT recommend that myself).  I just wonder if there is a more feasible resolution to this issue.
Does anyone else experience the same issue with other printers or multifunctions?  Also, why does the issue occur only on my Intel iMac 20" (aluminum), and NOT on my PowerBook G4?
Please let us know about your experience as it seems many of us are at a loss for a solution.
Thank you very much for your help; we await!  :)
Cya!
\m/ Mad Metal Mage \m/

2009 Mac Book pro will not boot up. I've tried to do a disk repair it says ETF partions need repair. When I try it says unable to unmount disk. I've tried to re-install the OS and when I do that the message says unable download.

My 2009 macbook pro will not boot up and I have tried everything to get it to work. Please help!!!!!!

Do you have an external drive? If no, then you will need to purchase a drive so you can backup your data.
If you have a drive that is formatted as GUID you can select to install OS X from recovery mode on the external drive. Now you can boot from that drive and make a backup of your internal drive so you can erase and reformat the drive.
Recommended Drives
USB 3.0 drives work on USB 2.0 but you do get 2.0 speed. They are cheaper because they are popular PC drives. If you get a new computer you'll get the bump to 3.0 speed. I don’t recommend FW. The newer computers don’t have FW ports. You would need a connector in order to use the drive on a newer computer.
Size: I recommend either the 2T or 3T drives. Often they are cheaper than a 1T drive. The 4T drives have more issues and failure rates.
Many drives come formatted for PC but easy to format in Disk Utility.
This Western Digital drive has good reviews: Has a 2 yr warranty. Comes formatted for Mac but I would still format using Disk Utility.
WD My Book Hard Drive for Mac 2 TB (WDBYCC0020HBK-NESN) $99
WD My Book Hard Drive for Mac 3 TB (WDBYCC0030HBK-NESN) $119.99
Check the warranty when comparing. The longer the warranty the better the drive. WD makes cheaper drives but with almost no warranty.
Locally, Best Buy seems to have the best prices.

New HDD Will Not Boot Internally

I'm trying to install a 1TB HDD into my MBP in place of the 750GB that came with it. I wouldn't have thought this to be important information, but this 1TB drive has come from inside a Seagate Expansion. I've cloned the drive, and made sure it will boot externally, but it will not boot when internal! Here are all the things I've done to try and make this work:
With the Expansion unit still as sold, I connected externally and formatted the drive to Mac OS Extended (Journaled). With the old 750GB drive still internally, I booted into Recovery Mode and used Disk Utility's "Restore" function to clone the 750GB drive to the 1TB. Once this was done I used the Startup Manager to boot from the newly cloned 1TB drive. This worked fine!
Taking the old drive out, and putting the new one in, I used the Startup Manager to select the new drive and it wouldn't boot. It came up with the Apple screen and spinning wheel, but wouldn't get further than that.
Thinking that some boot information hadn't been copied, I attached my old drive externally so that whatever information wasn't copied was at least accessible, but the new drive still wouldn't boot.
I took the new drive out and connected it externally via USB again, but this time with no drive internally. I selected the new drive in Startup Manager, and I was able to boot from it.
Unsure of what's going on, I wiped the new drive and put it back in the MBP. Booted into Recovery Mode and selected Restore from Time Machine backup. I went through the selection of where my backup was and which one to use, but my new 1TB drive wasn't available to restore to.
I then tried the option to Reinstall Mac OS X, however it wouldn't let me do this either.
I went to Disk Utility in Recovery Mode, with the new drive still internal, to see if the disk needed repairing. I noticed then that it didn't appear to have the same name I'd given the partition when I'd formatted it, and I was also unable to reformat it, erase it, or actually do anything to it at all.
For whatever reason, this hard drive will NOT work when installed internally. I've contacted Seagate and they basically told me to shove off for opening the unit and voiding the warranty, no one online seems to have any ideas as to why this isn't working!
If anyone has some great ideas for a solution they'd be more than welcome!

It worked! Drive and Recovery Partition were cloned without problem and I can now boot to the internal drive as normal.
Thanks for the help Grant!
The fix/method for anyone wanting to do this in future:
Install new HDD into Mac, connect old drive in an enclosure.
Boot to old drive recovery partition
Run Disk Utility from the recovery partition and 'restore' the image of your old drive (which is connected via USB) to the new drive.
Wait a LONG time (5 hours for a 750GB HDD) and it'll clone your entire HDD including the recovery partition.
Whilst still in recovery Disk Utility, change startup disk to the new HDD (the one installed in your Mac)
Disconnect USB drive and boot to the newly cloned intertnal drive.
Celebrate - up to you how to approach this one, I just did a little dance.

When i install a 2nd 1gb stick of memory in my pavilion dv6000t laptop, the laptop will not boot.

HP Pavilion dv6000t running Windows Vista Ultimate 32-bit version. My system currently is running on a single 1GB stick of memory. I have a 2nd matching 1GB stick of memory. When I install the 2nd stick of memory the system will not boot. All the lights come on, the hard drive spins up, but you can not even get into the BIOS setup screen, it just sits there with a blank screen. What could be causing this. Thanks in advance for any assistance you may be able to provide.

Hi:
When I encounter issues like that, I switch the memory modules to see if one of the chips is bad.
So, I recommend you remove the one memory chip that is working, and put the other one in its place.
If the PC boots up, now install the second chip and see what happens.
If it doesn't boot up, then there is some undefined hardware issue.
If the PC doesn't boot up when you initially switch the memory with the one stick, then you know that the one memory module is bad.
Paul

HT204291 Apple mirroring needs a protocol to message EXACTLY why, when mirroring will not appear on an iphone.

Apple mirroring needs a protocol to message EXACTLY why, when mirroring will not appear on an iphone. It is sloppy architecture to simply have the mirroring / Apple TV buttons not shown when something is wrong - especially when both iphone and AppleTV are on same WiFi network with solid signal and no interference. Trying to figure out why (fickle) mirroring will not appear on the iphone should not be a guessing game, as the current architecture has it now. At least have a message protocol so the iphone can be told what is preventing mirroring so it can report to the iphone user.

I'm an applications developer and also run a part-time videography business. As such, I require more than 3.12GB of RAM. That is the physical limitation of a 32bit system. Pointless to stay on 32bit if you plan on having more than that much RAM.
I'm also not about to pay someone to fix my PC when I can do it myself. I was originally hoping for someone who had experienced the problem before to point me in the right direction so I didn't have to spend so much time trying to figure out what the issue was for myself.
Basically, in the end the problem was caused because right at the point in time when I chose to uninstall, and reinstall; Apple released a new version of iTunes. This version in turn had a requirement of iOS 4.2 to sync with the iPhone. This is a pretty embarrassing for Apple that they would release software reliant on other software before said software was released.
Had I realised I was downloading a newer version at the initial point of installation, this wouldn't have been an issue. I could've easily have rolled back iTunes to the previous version and gotten on with my life.
Another issue is that iTunes is not actually a 64 bit application. It masquerades as one to allow installation on the 64 bit platform.

I took my iMac 2010 to a "Third Party" company to replace my hdd, they did, but now it will not boot. if i took this to the Apple store, how much would it cost to fix? if i buy my own SSD (£70) Thanks a LOT!

I took my iMac 2010 to a "Third Party" company to replace my hdd, they did, but now it will not boot. if i took this to the Apple store, how much would it cost to fix? if i buy my own SSD (£70) Thanks a LOT!

DewiRobbo wrote:
Well, this "third party" is going to put my old hdd back and not charge me any money (as he did not fix it) but i think its better off taking it to an AASP because i have a feeling Apple store will charge way too much.
The way I read that comment – you seem to suggest the Mac was broken before the third party replaced the disk - is that the case or was it working before the HD was replaced?
Since the Mac is out of warranty you will have to pay for any repairs wherever you take it. Authorised Apple service centres will be able to get parts whereas any non certified technicians will have to use 'grey market' parts since Apple will not sell parts to the public. These may be reconditioned or not official parts - it's a risk to use them. Visit the Apple store & ask them - there is no point in lying about it being handled by a third party. An Apple tech may be able to tell when they open the case, depending on how meticulous your third party was.
If you are handy with a screwdriver & have tools and a lot of patience you could use a guide on iFixit.com, but there is no indication of why this Mac not booting up.
It could be that the disk is not formatted correctly.
Are you sure the tech copied an OS onto the disk? Did they install the OS for you or did they clone the old disk?
Can you boot from a backup disk or from an install disk? Does the disk appear in Disk Utility when booted from another OS (either the installer or a backup).
'Not booting' can mean so many things, what does booting do exactly? Grey screen, black screen, any noises or tones, any signs of life at all…?
If you look at the iFixit guides you will see many fiddly connectors, if the tech failed to hook them all back up it could explain the failure, or perhaps you just have a disk that is 'dead on arrival' - sometimes that happens. A properly trained technician should be able to figure that one out.

I am in mavericks disk utility recovery mode as my mac book will not boot up & stays only on the grey apple screen. When I verify the disk I get open error5 :input /output error on Syst stuck on 1 minute pouring out over 50 error messages & still counting

I am in Mavericks disk utility recovery mode as my mac book pro will not boot up & stays on the Apple grey screen . When I verify disk permissions I get
Open error 5:"input/ output error" on syst with over 50 of this messages & still counting . Disk Utility says 1 minute
But this has been going on for over 10 mins .
I can not verify disk or repair disk .
I have tried to reinstall mavericks operating system but it says my hard drive is locked which is very strange .
Does anyone know what is going on here ?
My system looks like it has been totally corrupted . Thanks Andrew

Could be. The "lock" isn't actually looking for a password.
WARNING: This will completely erase the ENTIRE hard drive.
What you would need to do is boot to recovery > disk utility > select the MAIN drive on the left side > partition > change partition layout from CURRENT to 1 PARTITION > ensure on the right side it says Format : Mac OSX Extended (Journaled) then push APPLY.
Then if it will allow us, close the windows until you see the 4 options popup again and select "Reinstall Mac OS X" select the Mac HD and you should be good to go!

I right click on link, click, open in new window, then nothing happens. Or, windows within a page will not open, for example, on gmail, when I click "details" the window will not open.

When I right click on a hot link, then click, open in a new window, a window will not open. Alternatively, I can click, open in a new tab, and a new tab will open. Additionally, if I'm at a website with a chat feature, the chat window will not open, or, as another example, if I'm at gmail, and I click "details", the window that opens giving the summary of when your account has been opened and the IP addresses it's been accessed from, will not open.
I have on the computer, Aurora too. I doubt that it's a source of the problem, but I had to throw that into the mix. For clarification, this problem is happening while using the Firefox browser.

You can middle-click a link to open the link in a new tab.
Start Firefox in <u>[[Safe Mode]]</u> to check if one of the extensions or if hardware acceleration is causing the problem (switch to the DEFAULT theme: Firefox (Tools) > Add-ons > Appearance/Themes).
*Don't make any changes on the Safe mode start window.
*https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Safe+Mode

ProtectTools issue: Decrypting an encrypted ProtectTools HDD when windows will not boot.

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