Stop motion FCPX

Can stop motion video be done with FCPX like it can be done with adobe?

Are you looking to do real stop motion? Or create a stop motion effect from video? (the answer is yes for both... but obviously different depending on which you are trying to do.)

Similar Messages

Stop Motion and FCPX

Hi,
Could anyone tell me if it is possible to create a stop motion film with onion skinning effects using Final Cut Pro X?
Failing that, is there any effect in FCPX which I could use to show me where the last frame was positioned in a stop motion film?
I was wondering if I would need specific stop motion software or not,
Many Thanks
James

What versions of the software are you using?

Imovie frame speed adjustment for stop motion

Now I'm on imovie 10.0.6, I can't seem to get the software to let me adjust my frame speed.
I'm working with stills, that I want to edit into a stop motion piece for some of the film, and show other images as stills for other sections.
The speed editor is greyed out, as is the FF option. Also, the duration is showing in seconds, where as in old imovie i would go into the preferences to show frames per second.
Any one overcome this issue and can help how I get the functionality I need?
thanks

your workflow is - sorry to say that - a bit ... inconvenient
the usual workflow is: record using some plain green or blue background, create matte/key new background in, color-process video.
'matting by hand' skips 50 years of video-processing ...
you can accomplish that with iMovie, Motion or FCPX. iM and FCPX come with a bundle of 'presets' which allow similar coloring/contrasting/de-saturation as pixlr. FCPX for sure allows much more, in detail manual manipulations of color, although the 'video' tab in iMovie11 offers enough 'knobs' to create the few looks pixlr offers. Motion wouldn't be my first choice, as the app's name implies, it is basicly not meant for such simple color-corrections.

I want to import still images to make a stop motion animation, but when I try to change the duration of still images, it isn't reflected in the timeline. How can I do this?

I want to import still images to make a stop motion animation, but when I try to change the duration of still images, it isn't reflected in the timeline. How can I do this?

Tonaw,
If you import your still images using iPhoto, then the time you set for each still, using FCPX Perferences works.
You can set the durantion from 1 frame to as long as you want them view.
If you do not use iPhoto to import your stills, the default is 10 sec's.
FYI: This issue was brought up within a month after FCPX was released. They found out by using iPhoto, you had better control of the amount of time your still was viewed.

Looking for a free stop motion software for my Macbook Pro?

Sorry if this is in the wrong category; I am new here.
I'm currently working on a 40 minute stop motion film. I've experimented with various stop motion apps, but none of them fit what I need. I'm making the film in 9 parts, and I want to be able to export each video as a .mov file and later import into FCPX to make edits and combine everything. I have the audio completely recorded and I plan to take the pictures using my Macbook Pro's built-in webcam. (This film doesn't need to be very fancy; it's for my family.)
I'm looking for something free (not a free trial) and without a watermark. Each of the 9 parts is inbetween 3-8 minutes. What do you recommend?
Thanks
-Jenni16

Tontothetank wrote:
I want to find a 1080p projector that I can connect my macbook pro to wirelessly and mirror what is on the screen... Or maybe a way to go about doing so, I knwo that you can mirror your iphone and ipad with ios 5 and apple tv...not sure on macbook pro? This might be too strange of a thing to be looking for but it would be so nice to eliminate wires from my life as much as possible...i.e. wireless headphones, printer, and projector (rather than a television) Anything help on this would be great! Thanks everyone!
You can do it, but are you prepared to spend? it won't be cheap. It may be cheaper than I thought.
You will need a projector with an HDMI input, and you will need a method of transmitting the HDMI signal, complete with all ancillary protocols (so HDMI 1.2 at least, 1.4 is safer) via wireless. That means way more bandwidth than 2.4 or 5G wireless can offer.
I have had success with the TruLink 60Ghz WirelessHD transmitter/receiver, 30ft range (20 is more 'real world') 1 hdmi in and 1 hdmi out, so they replace the cable. Last pair I bought were $600, but I just saw that Amazon have them available at $141 ....
However these are line of sight devices, no motion and no obstruction between the pair or fuzzzzzz

Best way to downsize images and create timelapse/stop motion sequences of various durations

I`m wanting to know should I use compressor to add image sequence and downsize images, or aperture to downsize a folder of images, (i`m talking 4000 to 10,000 photos in one folder). What app is faster and more stable (reliable in converting the whole batch without crashing) ?
I had been doing some mix of stop motion and timelapse and wanted to downsize the images, then take them into FCP.X to create a video,
from there I would be adjusting the frame duration for different groups of photos in the one time line, some groups will have slower frame durations, others faster frame durations depending on the effect I want.
Is FCPX the best choice to do this in? Or should I select the photos I want at a particular frame duration and process/output them in another software first.
Then take them into FCPX to put with other sequences of footage.
Another related question, Compressor, Ive applied a destination and setting by dragging them from the templates, but the following message comes up for the video when I click "submit.."
- Each target assigned to a job must have a setting and destination.
the source is small, for smallest quicktime output, the destination is users movies folder...
any suggestion would be great,
thanks,

If I want to keep the original image file size I would choose a different location? (to make a copy at lower resolution). (some images I want for printing at A2 but haven`t the time to siphon those out yet).
Thanks for the request I hope it is moved (will I be notified via email?)
regards my 2nd question, i`ll clarify that a bit more for the FCPx forum,
...Compressor, Ive applied a destination and setting by dragging them from the templates, but the following message comes up for the video when I click "submit.."
- Each target assigned to a job must have a setting and destination.
I already set the source to small, for smallest quicktime output, the destination is "users movies folder"...both were dragged up into the fields required near the video thumbnail.
Not sure what to do from there it wont let me proceed.

What programs/functions do I need to master in order to create stop motion animation?

Hi,
Im just starting a new job, and will be creating a handful of films for my new employer.
I want to create something interesting, and have been leaning towards stop motion animation.
What initially inspired me was this music video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfcHq0hhFWg
To me, it looks like a bunch of stop motion ( ex; the paper balls and hand colored individual frames of the guy playing guitar), paired with some digital animation (walruses). Please correct me if I am wrong about this.
So - to focus my question:
1) What program does one use to play all the individual pictures taken to create the stop motion animation? In other words, once I have shot all the individual pictures of the objects I want to animate, and am ready to organize them and set a playback speed, what program would I use? Do most people just throw all the pictures into final cut and do it that way?? Or is there a better program?
and
2) How do you cut portions of pictures / drawings / frames out to allow for a deep layering effect? I figure most people take each frame and manipulate it individually using photoshop (cutting portions of an image out so something else can be seen through the void). But is there a better way??
For example, lets say I have two crecent shaped pieces of black paper, and I want them to move towards each other from the left and right sides of the screen, and eventually completely obscure whatever is going on in the background behind the paper images. First I would take a series of pictures, moving the pieces of paper in small increments, until they closed the gap and overlapped each other. From that point, I would lay down whatever video I wanted playing in the background into the timeline. Next, I would import the series of photos with the pieces of paper moving towards each other - then comes the problem. The portion of the pictures used for the animation that is NOT PAPER would be obscuring my background video. So at this point, is it easier to shoot the animation against a white background and just chroma key the white out? Or do most people cut the non paper part out using photoshop? or is there a better way?

frisbee681 wrote:
Hi,
Im just starting a new job, and will be creating a handful of films for my new employer.
I want to create something interesting, and have been leaning towards stop motion animation.
Congratulations on the job. Not many of them out there.
frisbee681 wrote:
1) What program does one use to play all the individual pictures taken to create the stop motion animation? In other words, once I have shot all the individual pictures of the objects I want to animate, and am ready to organize them and set a playback speed, what program would I use? Do most people just throw all the pictures into final cut and do it that way?? Or is there a better program?
Easy to search the app store, as mentioned, or just google stop motion for macintosh. Mastering the application is easy. Learning how to animate is where you need to start.
frisbee681 wrote:
2) How do you cut portions of pictures / drawings / frames out to allow for a deep layering effect? I figure most people take each frame and manipulate it individually using photoshop (cutting portions of an image out so something else can be seen through the void). But is there a better way??
In the odlen days, we used multiplane stages. Each set of drawings was placed on a glass stage, one under the other. INcredibly fun, absurdly difficult to keep clean and properly lit. Now all of that stuff is done with alpha channels and compositing software like Motion or Afer Effects.
frisbee681 wrote:
For example, lets say I have two crecent shaped pieces of black paper, and I want them to move towards each other from the left and right sides of the screen, and eventually completely obscure whatever is going on in the background behind the paper images. First I would take a series of pictures, moving the pieces of paper in small increments, until they closed the gap and overlapped each other. From that point, I would lay down whatever video I wanted playing in the background into the timeline. Next, I would import the series of photos with the pieces of paper moving towards each other - then comes the problem. The portion of the pictures used for the animation that is NOT PAPER would be obscuring my background video. So at this point, is it easier to shoot the animation against a white background and just chroma key the white out? Or do most people cut the non paper part out using photoshop? or is there a better way?
Umm, yes. You're only guessing. And, honestly (Did you want honesty?), your heart may be in this but you don't have much a clue. Techniques and effects (and the experience to guide the decisions to do them in camera, on the shooting stage, or in software) are not where you start animation. You start by learning how cameras work, how shutter speed and f-stop relate to ISO speed, how to shoot on-2s (or if you should), how to do eases and stretches and squishes, how to develop characterization in inanimate objects so you can invoke emotive responses from the audience, how to shoot to hooks in the soundtrack, how to plan, how to storyboard, how to budget time, how to establish and maintain quality shooting conditions, how to do animatic or rough tests, how to learn from the tests, how to have fun, how to make money, how to get it done.
This is kind of like saying you've just inherited a hundred acres and are thinking about getting into farming. You plant some seeds and do some stuff and then pick it and sell it. How hard can it be?
bogiesan

Can I use canon eos40d for stop motion capture in premiere elements 9?

I Want too do stop motion capture but when I click get media, the pop up dialog box proceeda as if to import still photos. How do I get the "capture panel" that is talked about where I can select stop motion? Is premiere elements 9 supposed to work with a still camera like mine for stop motion at all? Thanks!!' Kimberley

Kimberley
Thanks for the reply. This is my take on the situation that you describe.
You wrote
The camera was linked to PC with USB cable and then the software showed on the PC what would normally be in the camera viewfinder. The enter key on the PC worked as a shutter release and onion skinning worked. Can premiere elements do this?
That more or less describes the Premiere Elements Webcam experience if Premiere Elements recognized the Webcam.
If you have made a USB connection between the Canon 40D and the computer and you are not getting a Capture Window when you use Premiere Elements' Add Media Webcam or WDM compatible device, then Premiere Elements does not support that simple route. It is my understanding that WDM compatible device represents Windows Driver Model (a framework for device drivers).
I have done some Google searching, and I have found instance where claims have been made for the Canon 40D as a webcam. I post one of these links for informational and non promotional purposes.
http://extrawebcam.com/
Have you explore any utilities that came with the Canon that might supply drivers for the Canon as a webcam?
Have you tried to use the Canon 40D as a webcam with Windows Movie Maker?
Please review and consider. (Also, 9.0.1 Update can be downloaded and installed from the project's Help Menu/Update or obtained online from
http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=4929
We will be watching for further developments.
Thank you.
ATR

Making a stop motion movie with stills. Please help!

I have a question for someone really smart:)... I am making a stop motion movie on imac with still photos. when i select a photo from iPhoto, and add it to the imovie project, it is adding multiples of each picture and i have NO idea why. I dont know if i changed a setting somewhere or what. This simple project went from fun to frustrating pretty quick. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hi
I would - to test and get project going
• Start a New User account (Apple Menu - down to System preferences / Accounts)
• Log out and into this
• Now test iMovie and see if all is OK
If not - the problem might lay in iPhoto photo-library - To try to mend this - YOU NEED TIMES - lot's of times - did it Yesterday > 8 hours !
When nothing but Mac OS is up and running
• Keep alt+cmd-keys down - During Full Up-Start of iPhoto
• Now You get a Menu
• Select all options
• KEEP Mac connected to Power-Mains as if lap-top battery might not last the full process
• Have a nice day / book or whatever - as this will take long long time !
Yours Bengt W

Problem with stop motion film

I want to make a stop motion movie. But when I upload the pictures imovie automatically makes them "zoom in". instead of each picture just shwoing it zzoms in and out of each one which looks stupid when you're trying ot make a stop motion.
HELP?!

Go to FILE/PROJECT PROPERTIES and change the default action for your project. It is currently set to Ken Burns. Change it to FIT (letterbox) or CROP (will fill the screen by cropping your photo.)
This will work for new photos you bring into the project. For photos already their, use the Rotate, Crop, Ken Burns Tool and select FIT or CROP.

Low quality export for stop motion animation stills from Canon 5D Mark ii

Thank you very much beforehand to anyone who is willing to look through this issue, it's been a long and frustrating process so far...
I am attempting to put together a stop motion animation in Final Cut Express but my exports are always either low quality, or medium quality and stretched. I am shooting on a Canon 5D Mark ii set to take pictures at 21M 5616x3744 [999] (though I'm not entirely sure what the 21M or 999 mean).
When I first assembled my stills (unedited or altered in any way) and exported, it looked like this:
A relatively drastic loss in colour and quality. This was achieved exporting through quicktime conversion using the following settings:
Compression Type: H.264
Compressor Quality: Best
Size: 1920x1080 HD
Preserve aspect ratio using: Crop
Deinterlace source video: unchecked
Unhappy with the result, I went through hours of testing and researching which only yielded a result after I discovered the control-Q Easy Setup menu. I tried setting up as an apple intermediate codec using HDV-Apple Intermediate Codec 1080i60 at 29.97 fps. I kept the export settings the same as above, but knowing that I was now working with a canvas that keeps to the 16:9 proportions, I tried cropping one of my stills in photoshop to fit that 16:9 ratio.
I then imported my 16:9 cropped still and an unedited JPEG version from my camera and exported the resulting 10 second video. The result was better quality, but still noticeably degraded from the original stills. More importantly, both the cropped 16:9 and the unedited JPEG were stretched out of proportion as seen below (16:9 version):
Of course I forgot to note the original settings on Easy Setup so I can't figure out how to get back to the original lower quality, yet undistorted image (not that I want to do that). I tried numerous different sizes for the export including changing the Crop (when necessary) setting to letterbox. Nothing worked.
The canvas, however, immediately looked 100% better after switching the Easy Setup to HDV-Apple Intermediate Codec 1080i60 at 29.97 fps. It held the improved quality without distorting the image:
I'm not sure if there's any hope of having a great image quality, but at very least I would like to be able to export at the decent quality of the second screenshot without the stretching and cropping.
I need to have this resolved ASAP for work, I've already wasted too much time here. Any help is so appreciated, I'll be active in providing whatever additional information that I can to responders, though please keep in mind that I'm relatively new to all this, I don't know where to find everything

I've decided just to try to get back to the export that I showed in the first screenshot. That result came before I started tampering with the Easy Setup. Like I said, when I changed the setup the canvas quality improved drastically and the dimensions seemed to fit much better, but the export was vertically stretched and cropped. I just reset my FCE settings and it turns out the default setup is DV-NTSC, but it's giving me a terrible quality still...
I just want to get back to that second screenshot's quality.. Could someone suggest what I should switch the easy setup to for importing stills from my Canon 5D Mark ii to yield the right results?

How can I make a stop motion animation using Premiere Elements 13?

I am trying to make a stop motion animation with a series of still shots. So far I have managed to speed up the shots so that I have one frame per second but this is still not fast enough and I can't work out how to make them go any faster!
I am working on a class project with my 8/9 year olds and the project has stalled at this point because I can't get past this hurdle. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

yogawithlexi,
Welcome to the forum.
Im also needing to just edit the photos but adding text. Nothing fancy. I just want to make some flyers.
For editing photos, to be output to the printed page (whether by a commercial printing service, or a desktop printer), I strongly recommend Photoshop Elements (PsE).
If you need to output to a video file, then Premiere Elements (PrE) can possibly do what you want, but not for the printed page - at least not easily, and with the ultimate results. First, Video is not dependent on DPI/LPI (Dots Per Inch, or Lines Per Inch), where printed material will be. Also, while PrE can output a Still Image, the quality, when printed, will be far less, than what one can obtain with PsE.
Do you currently have Photoshop Elements on your computer, or only Premiere Elements?
Good luck,
Hunt

Can I use DSLR to capture stop motion in PE8?

No luck in having "Get Media" find my Canon T2i which I want to use for stop motion, or my Canon FS200 for that matter. Other stop motion capturing software I have sees both, but I need to use PE8.

I want to connect a Canon T2i DSLR to the computer via USB to view, control and capture using PrE from the computer monitor - i.e. I want setup the camera equipment and stage and not touch anything but the puppets. I don't want to take a bunch of pictures on the camera and import them.
What I want to do is possible with, say Stop Motion Pro - and it works great, but I like the additional features of PrE. Looks like I'll be using Stop Motion Pro.

Using Still images to create a stop motion film in imovie

Hi all, I'm trying to create a stop motion film in imovie using photo's I've taken with my camera, I've managed to put it all into the sequence I want, and even put background music on, but for some reason I can't stop imovie, panning in and out on individual photo's/clips of my film, so whereas when i flick through the photo's on my camera, it creates a pretty good stop motion film, but on movie it looks as though I've held everything by hand not using a tripod, making it jaunty and not playing well.
Does anyone know how to make it stop doing this? My friend hasn't been able to stop it from doing it either!
Thanks

but for some reason I can't stop imovie, panning in and out on individual photo's/clips of my film, so whereas when i flick through the photo's on my camera, it creates a pretty good stop motion film, but on movie it looks as though I've held everything by hand not using a tripod, making it jaunty and not playing well.
iMovie '08 installs with the Ken Burns Effects preference selected. When you add a photo, it is automatically added by turning it into a "still frame" sequence of frames at the default length with the KBE applied. To get rid of it make sure your "Project" aspect ratio matches the aspect of your photos. Then select the photo sequence in the "Project" window, select the "Crop" tool, and choose the "Fit" option in the preview window. This will get rid of the KBE. Now all you have to do is select any single frame in your "Project" sequence (or multiple frames if you want to "slow" down the final motion sequence in your project), split the sequence, and then discard the unwanted frames. (You could also use Command-C to temporally "store" your selected frame(s) to memory, discard the entire sequence and then use Command-V to paste the frame(s) in memory back into the project window at the proper location in your "timeline.")

Stop motion on premiere pro

Hello, i am trying to make a stop motion film using adobe premiere pro cc, and possibly premiere elements 12 if necessary. I would like to know how i can createa live feed of images from camera to software. I would also like to be able to use the onion skin tool whether that is available in either of the sed softwares. thank you

Premiere Pro captures via FireWire natively, or via HDMI and SDI if you have compatible third-party hardware installed. This is typically used to capture moving video, though. I don't know if it will do a single frame.
Honestly, your best bet may be to use a stills camera to shoot the frames.

Stop motion FCPX

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