Using a HDTV LCD for mirroring

Hello all,
I have a 20" imac and have been looking at buying a Samsung LE32R41BDX for a new TV, half the reason for this is so I can mirror the imac and watch DVD's etc. The Samsung has a resolution of 1366x768 with 800:1 contrast and 500cd/m2. it also has s-video and HDMI (DVI comp.)
Can anybody put me at ease that I will get good enough results to be worth buying, if not can you recommend an alternative LCD. and also, should I use s-video or DVI for best quality?
Kind Regards

Hucky, Welcome to the discussion area!
You need the Apple VGA Display Adapter M8639G/A. Check the box your iBook came in. That cable came with my iBook.

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Hello everyone!
I use robocopy for mirroring some file resources at win2012 by using bat-file with scheduler.
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Hi,
Please try to search for the word ERROR in the output file will find the rows in the log file indicating the reason for the failure.
For more detailed information, please refer to the article below:
Find Failed Files in Robocopy
http://robinherrington.com/2012/09/28/find-failed-files-in-robocopy/
Please Note: Since the website is not hosted by Microsoft, the link may change without notice. Microsoft does not guarantee the accuracy of this information.
Regards,
Mandy
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It is one way.
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In addition to pixel density, you are up against the translation driver card in the TV.
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How to smooth text when using 720p HDTV as monitor?

I know I'm not using the best choice for a Monitor, but want to tweak it the best I can.
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New Mac Mini bought yesterday
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I have never used any of this, I have never needed to use it. I just know that the information is around and has been useful to others.
I also saved this tutoial that I found once. Perhaps it can help you;
SwitchResX Tutorial
0. All of this is easier to do if you have a portable Mac, since you can configure the external display while viewing everything on the built-in display. You can do it with only the external display (your big TV, that is), but it's tedious.
1. Get the proper cable to connect your Mac to the display (VGI, DVI, or DVI->HDMI, depending on your display's inputs; if you're using a portable Mac with only mini-DVI you'll need the adapter *and* a cable).
2. Connect the display and turn on the Mac. Launch the SwitchResX Control application (if all you're doing is setting up a custom configuration, you don't need the preference pane and thus don't need APE either).
3. In the SwitchResX Control application, select the display you want to configure in the "Settings of:" menu (if it isn't selected already) and click the "Display" tab. Then click the "Export DDC" button and select a location to save the file.
4. Using the text editor of your choice (TextEdit works, or you may have a preference for something else) open that file you just exported. You should see at least one Monitor Description Block (mine has two, labeled Descriptor #0 and Descriptor #1). This should give you a starting point. Mine looks like this:
Code:
    Descriptor #0 is Timing definition:
    Mode = 1920 x 540 @ 60Hz
        H. Active...............1920 pixels
        H. Blanking.............280 pixels
        V. Active...............540 lines
        V. Blanking.............22 lines
        HSync Offset............88 pixels
        HSync Pulse Width.......44 pixels
        VSync Offset............2 lines
        VSync Pulse Width.......5 lines
        Pixel Clock.............74.25MHz
        Horizontal freq.........33.75kHz
        Vertical freq...........60.05Hz
        H Image Size............16mm
        V Image Size............9mm
        H Border................0 pixels
        V Border................0 lines
            Interlaced
            Sync: Digital separate with
                * Positive vertical polarity
                * Positive horizontal polarity
Note that the Mode is described as 1920 x 540 @ 60Hz, interlaced. It's actually 1920 x 1080, interlaced. I'm not sure why the vertical resolution is half what it should be there, but that's an important detail to note. If yours looks like it's half what it should be, you'll have to double it below. Use your common sense here.
The next step depends on what problem you need to solve. If you have a picture and you just need to adjust its position and/or size, you have the easier task and these instructions can help you. If you don't have a picture at all, the values provided by your display are invalid, and you'll have to do some research to find valid values (I can't help you find them). Search and/or ask on this forum, and also try Google.
5. Click on the "Custom" tab in the SwitchResX Control app. Click the "+" button to create a new resolution. Select "Custom" in the menu at the top (as opposed to "Scaled"). Start by entering the values in the Monitor Description Block you exported and opened in a text editor. The thing to realize as you get started is that all the numbers interact with each other, and as you change one value the application will recalculate the others if they're affected by the change. At a given resolution, the number of horizontal pixels and the number of vertical lines in each box always have to add to the same totals, and you can get those values by adding the "Active" and "Blanking" values in the Monitor Timing Block. To stick with my display, the horizontal pixel values must add up to 2200 (1920 (H. Active) + 280 (H. Blanking)), and the vertical line values must add up to 1124 (2 * (540 (V. Active) + 22 (V. Blanking))). The horizontal and vertical scan rates are calculated using those total values and the pixel clock value.
This is a very important concept to understand. With a constant pixel clock value and constant totals of Active + Blanking in both axes, the scan rates should also remain constant. If you have changed your active, porch, or sync width values and the scan rates don't add up, you won't get any picture. To use my display as an example again:
Code:
Pixel Clock 74.25 Mhz, Interlaced
            Horizontal      Vertical
Active:     1920 pixels     1080 lines
Frt. porch: 88 pixels       4 lines
Sync width: 44 pixels       10 lines
Back porch: 148 pixels      30 lines
Scan rate: 33.75 kHz       60.05 Hz
Note that 1920 + 88 + 44 + 148 = 2200, and 1080 + 4 + 10 + 30 = 1124.
6a. Adjust the values to fit your display (heh). This is the trial-and-error portion of the task, and is also slightly counterintuitive. You can get an idea of the adjustments you need to make if you use DisplayConfigX to display an "Image Size Test" (in the "Test Screen" tab). It'd make life easier if that were built into SwitchResX, but anyway:
If you need to shrink the visible area, decrease the Active value and increase the front or back porch values by the same amount. If you need to increase it, do the opposite. It helps to work incrementally (say, by multiples of 8) and save and test your work as you go along. Note that you may not actually need to restart the computer: I found that I could just unplug the HDMI cable from the back of my display and plug it back in, and the new settings would take effect. Remember to click "OK" (and not "Cancel") in the Timing Parameters window, then "Apply" in the main window, before you do this, or before you reboot. Otherwise your changes will be lost.
The porch values are counterintuitive. The horizontal "front porch" is the right edge of the screen (not the left as you might expect); the vertical "front porch" is the bottom edge of the screen. To move the image to the right, decrease the horizontal front porch and increase the horizontal back porch; to move it to the left increase the front porch and decrease the back porch. To move the image up, increase the vertical front porch and decrease the back porch, to move it down, decrease the front porch and increase the back porch. Again, it helps to save and restart or disconnect/reconnect the display to test these adjustments. The "Quick change" buttons in the bottom right-hand corner of the Timing Parameters window will adjust the porches for you, but note that in older versions the buttons were reversed (down means up and left means right, if you catch my drift). That's been fixed in version 3.7.6, apparently.
Also, remember as you adjust porch values that you shouldn't ever need to change the sync width.
6b. You know how I said you might not need to restart the computer? That's not actually 100% true for some displays. When I boot my computer with the display connected, the image is shifted to one side. If I subsequently change resolutions in software or disconnect and reconnect the display, the image will shift back. I got around this problem by first coming up with a configuration that was properly aligned after such a switch. After I had that I rebooted and estimated how far the image was shifted to one side. I then adjusted the porch values, saved, rebooted, and tested again. I now have two configurations, one for "fresh boot" that's adjusted for that sideways shift, and one I can use if I've changed the resolution for some reason. After all that, my default settings are now:
Code:
Pixel Clock 74.25 Mhz, Interlaced
            Horizontal      Vertical
Active:     1834 pixels     1024 lines
Frt. porch: 120 pixels      40 lines
Sync width: 44 pixels       10 lines
Back porch: 202 pixels      50 lines
Scan rate: 33.75 kHz       60.05 Hz
Again, 1834 + 120 + 44 + 202 = 2200, and 1024 + 40 + 10 + 50 = 1124. The Pixel Clock and both scan rates are the same as I found in the DDC.
Note also that if you have the same sideways shift problem, your two resolutions can't be identical (the system won't know which one to select). I made mine different by two pixels of horizontal resolution, which turns out to be rounded off in practice anyway (so one's 1832 x 1024, and the other's 1834 x 1024, with porch values adjusted accordingly, but they both look the same).
At this point you should be able to align your desktop to your display by iterating through these steps, applying your changes, and either disconnecting and reconnecting the display or rebooting.
7. If ever you go horribly wrong and go from having a misaligned picture to having no picture at all, you'll have to delete the override installed by SwitchResX. Boot the computer into Safe Mode, launch the SwitchResX Control app again, and click the "Factory settings" button, then the "Apply" button, and reboot.
And as a preemptive strike: no, I probably don't own your display and don't know the numbers for it offhand, and my consulting rate is $45/hr (really!).
Copyright Fedward. All rights reserved, all wrongs reversed.

Can i use pc laptop monitor for mac mini?

I am going to be out of the country for a year - maybe in Africa, most likely in area not well served by technology. I have to use PC for work so have a think pad. I also have an ipad and a mac mini. I really want to take my mac mini (mm) - it bridges a gap between these two. It's small enough and I can use my bluetooth keyboard for both ipad and mm. I can only take a suitcase plus backpack...so I am really not gonna haul a monitor. Is there a way to use PC laptop as display for mm? Weird, I know but I can only take so much...
thanks for any help you can give. cheers

do you think one of these new USB powered mobile monitors (LED/LCD) might work - toshiba and lenovo both have them. they say they are compatible with any windows computer - but why not mac?

If I use the same iCloud account for my ipad and iPhone, will changes I make on one change on the other as well? I'm not sure of the advantage of using teh same iCloud for both devices.

If I use the same iCloud account for my ipad and iPhone, will changes I make on one change on the other as well? I'm not sure of the advantage of using teh same iCloud for both devices.

No, it only mirrors changes to synced data. This includes mail, contacts, calendars, reminders, safari bookmarks, notes, iWork documents and data, and photo stream photos (assuming you choose to sync all this data). Changes to iTunes data such as music, apps, podcasts, etc., are not synced using iCloud. In your example, if you delete an app from one device it will remain on the other until deleted there too.

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After I was done, I wondered if using the whole disk for the zpool was a good idea or not. I did some looking around but I didn't see anything that suggested that was good or bad.
I already know about some the flash archive issues and will be playing with those shortly, but I am curious how others are setting up their root ZFS pools.
Would it be smarter to setup say a 9gb partition on both drives so that the root ZFS is created on that to make the zpool and then mirror it to the other drive and then create another ZFS pool from the remaining disk?

route1 wrote:
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Stop it from using photo black ink for black text printing and where has the color ink gone?

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The set of ink cartridges that came with it lasted for several months. Since then I've gone through two sets in less than a year. That's 3 sets of ink cartridges when I have only printed 3 photo's when I first set it up. And have only used les than a 1/4 of one package of printing paper. I've only put paper in it twice. Each time it was about a 1/4 inch or 3/8 of an inch thick stack of paper in the tray. I've even tried shutting the printer down when its not being used for a long period of time but the ink is still disapearing. Where is it going? Why is it going there? How do I stop it? This is rediculous. I may as well junk the thing even though it still works because I cant aford to keep feeding it ink when its just sitting there doing nothing most of the time.
Thank you
This question was solved.
View Solution.

I just got another email from HP about this problem wanting to know what I found for a solution to this problem. From all of the suggestions from the HP tec support all of them pretty much kept saying the same thing. That it is my fault that it's using so much ink because I have it on the wrong settings. One tec did slip and say that it doesn't matter what settings you have it on it will always use the Photo Black cartridge for printing plain black text and it doesn't matter if you have a X-Large Black cartridge in it for text printing because it was made to always use the Photo Black for text and even use some of the colors to blend with the black to make it stand out. Why anybody would need this when just printing shipping labels and things like that I don't know.
Any who, The only solution for this problem is,,,, junk the printer and get a different brand & model of printer. Research it before buying to find out how much ink it wants to waste and if it will still print black text if it only has a black cartridge in it. I was going to get rid of mine by giving it to a friend since they don't have a printer. But since I want to keep him as a friend I decided not to give it to him. Since it cant be traded in for a different one even though it still works, Its going to the target shooting range the next time I go out shooting. Maybe I'll take a few video's clips of it getting blasted to pieces with a Ruger 10-22 .22 cal. rifle with 25 shot clips, a Ruger Mini-14 Ranch Rifle shooting .223 cal with a 30 shot clip, a Chinese SKS 7.62 with a 30 shot clip. And maybe use my Ruger P89 9mm pistol and put a couple 15 round clips of 9mm in it. If there's anything left I'll finish it off with a few 3" magnum loads of #2 steel shot with my 20 gauge shotgun. Then I think I'll do the same thing to my Westinghouse 46" flat screen HDTV that just died.
Then maybe I'll come back and post the video's of my "solution to this printers problem". It may not fix the problem, but it will be an entertaining way of getting rid of the problem.

Does anyone use a second LCD

I was wandering if anyone is using a second lcd attached to their iMac and if so is the display the same or better?
The display on my dell laptop is real crisp and easy to read.
Now before you get on me for having a dell, it is something I have to use for my work.

I'm using my old Apple 17 inch LCD display for a second monitor. It's truly plug and play...except in my case I had to get two adapters: the mini-DVI to DVI and the ADC to DVI. I believe that Apple no longer puts the ADC plugs on their monitors so that shouldn't be a concern if you're considering a newer Apple monitor/display.
At any rate...you'll need the mini-DVI adapter to use a second monitor. I've had no problems at all and the resolution is beautiful. Others have reported the same results with non-Apple monitors.

Using a HDTV LCD for mirroring

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