What os does lightroom and photoshop run best on? Mac or PC?

I don't know to which project files you are referring but:
The Lightroom Catalog (a single file on both)
The Previews (a single folder on both)
The Smart Previews (a single folder on both)
Presets, Settings and Such (in identically nested folders within the OS construct on both)
Take it from an experienced user in both OS's. Mac simplifies somethings - PC simplifies others.

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Why does Lightroom (and Photoshop) use AdobeRGB and/or ProPhoto RGB as default color spaces, when most monitors are standard gamut (sRGB) and cannot display the benefits of those wider gamuts?

I've asked this in a couple other places online as I try to wrap my head around color management, but the answer continues to elude me. That, or I've had it explained and I just didn't comprehend. So I continue. My confusion is this: everywhere it seems, experts and gurus and teachers and generally good, kind people of knowledge claim the benefits (in most instances, though not all) of working in AdobeRGB and ProPhoto RGB. And yet nobody seems to mention that the majority of people - including presumably many of those championing the wider gamut color spaces - are working on standard gamut displays. And to my mind, this is a huge oversight. What it means is, at best, those working this way are seeing nothing different than photos edited/output in sRGB, because [fortunately] the photos they took didn't include colors that exceeded sRGB's real estate. But at worst, they're editing blind, and probably messing up their work. That landscape they shot with all those lush greens that sRGB can't handle? Well, if they're working in AdobeRGB on a standard gamut display, they can't see those greens either. So, as I understand it, the color managed software is going to algorithmically reign in that wild green and bring it down to sRGB's turf (and this I believe is where relative and perceptual rendering intents come into play), and give them the best approximation, within the display's gamut capabilities. But now this person is editing thinking they're in AdobeRGB, thinking that green is AdobeRGB's green, but it's not. So any changes they make to this image, they're making to an image that's displaying to their eyes as sRGB, even if the color space is, technically, AdobeRGB. So they save, output this image as an AdobeRGB file, unaware that [they] altered it seeing inaccurate color. The person who opens this file on a wide gamut monitor, in the appropriate (wide gamut) color space, is now going to see this image "accurately" for the first time. Only it was edited by someone who hadn't seen it accurately. So who know what it looks like. And if the person who edited it is there, they'd be like, "wait, that's not what I sent you!"
Am I wrong? I feel like I'm in the Twilight Zone. I shoot everything RAW, and I someday would love to see these photos opened up in a nice, big color space. And since they're RAW, I will, and probably not too far in the future. But right now I export everything to sRGB, because - internet standards aside - I don't know anybody who I'd share my photos with, who has a wide gamut monitor. I mean, as far as I know, most standard gamut monitors can't even display 100% sRGB! I just bought a really nice QHD display marketed toward design and photography professionals, and I don't think it's 100. I thought of getting the wide gamut version, but was advised to stay away because so much of my day-to-day usage would be with things that didn't utilize those gamuts, and generally speaking, my colors would be off. So I went with the standard gamut, like 99% of everybody else.
So what should I do? As it is, I have my Photoshop color space set to sRGB. I just read that Lightroom as its default uses ProPhoto in the Develop module, and AdobeRGB in the Library (for previews and such).
Thanks for any help!
Michael

Okay. Going bigger is better, do so when you can (in 16-bit). Darn, those TIFs are big though. So, ideally, one really doesn't want to take the picture to Photoshop until one has to, right? Because as long as it's in LR, it's going to be a comparatively small file (a dozen or two MBs vs say 150 as a TIF). And doesn't LR's develop module use the same 'engine' or something, as ACR plug-in? So if your adjustments are basic, able to be done in either LR Develop, or PS ACR, all things being equal, choose to stay in LR?
ssprengel Apr 28, 2015 9:40 PM
PS RGB Workspace: ProPhotoRGB and I convert any 8-bit documents to 16-bit before doing any adjustments.
Why does one convert 8-bit pics to 16-bit? Not sure if this is an apt comparison, but it seems to me that that's kind of like upscaling, in video. Which I've always taken to mean adding redundant information to a file so that it 'fits' the larger canvas, but to no material improvement. In the case of video, I think I'd rather watch a 1080p movie on an HD (1080) screen (here I go again with my pixel-to-pixel prejudice), than watch a 1080p movie on a 4K TV, upscaled. But I'm ready to be wrong here, too. Maybe there would be no discernible difference? Maybe even though the source material were 1080p, I could still sit closer to the 4K TV, because of the smaller and more densely packed array of pixels. Or maybe I only get that benefit when it's a 4K picture on a 4K screen? Anyway, this is probably a different can of worms. I'm assuming that in the case of photo editing, converting from 8 to 16-bit allows one more room to work before bad things start to happen?
I'm recent to Lightroom and still in the process of organizing from Aperture. Being forced to "this is your life" through all the years (I don't recommend!), I realize probably all of my pictures older than 7 years ago are jpeg, and probably low-fi at that. I'm wondering how I should handle them, if and when I do. I'm noting your settings, ssprengel.
ssprengel Apr 28, 2015 9:40 PM
I save my PS intermediate or final master copy of my work as a 16-bit TIF still in the ProPhotoRGB, and only when I'm ready to share the image do I convert to sRGB then 8-bits, in that order, then do File / Save As: Format=JPG.
Part of the same question, I guess - why convert back to 8-bits? Is it for the recipient? Do some machines not read 16-bit? Something else?
For those of you working in these larger color spaces and not working with a wide gamut display, I'd love to know if there are any reasons you choose not to. Because I guess my biggest concern in all of this has been tied to what we're potentially losing by not seeing the breadth of the color space we work in represented while making value adjustments to our images. Based on what several have said here, it seems that the instances when our displays are unable to represent something as intended are infrequent, and when they do arise, they're usually not extreme.
Simon G E Garrett Apr 29, 2015 4:57 AM
With 8 bits, there are 256 possible values. If you use those 8 bits to cover a wider range of colours, then the difference between two adjacent values - between 100 and 101, say - is a larger difference in colour. With ProPhoto RGB in 8-bits there is a chance that this is visible, so a smooth colour wedge might look like a staircase. Hence ProPhoto RGB files might need to be kept as 16-bit TIFs, which of course are much, much bigger than 8-bit jpegs.
Over the course of my 'studies' I came across a side-by-side comparison of either two color spaces and how they handled value gradations, or 8-bit vs 16-bit in the same color space. One was a very smooth gradient, and the other was more like a series of columns, or as you say, a staircase. Maybe it was comparing sRGB with AdobeRGB, both as 8-bit. And how they handled the same "section" of value change. They're both working with 256 choices, right? So there might be some instances where, in 8-bit, the (numerically) same segment of values is smoother in sRGB than in AdobeRGB, no? Because of the example Simon illustrated above?
Oh, also -- in my Lumix LX100 the options for color space are sRGB or AdobeRGB. Am I correct to say that when I'm shooting RAW, these are irrelevant or ignored? I know there are instances (certain camera effects) where the camera forces the shot as a jpeg, and usually in that instance I believe it will be forced sRGB.
Thanks again. I think it's time to change some settings..

What programs does OS9 and classic run?

Primarily I use OS 10.3.9 but have OS9 and classic on my iMac from initial installation/purchase. Specifically, what programs/applications might the OS9 and classic run? If they are not programs I use, then I'll delete them and save the space. Thanks.

Hi, David. You should have a folder at the root level of your hard drive called "Applications (OS 9)", and it should contain most of your Classic applications: the ones that run in Classic mode, or when the computer is booted into OS 9 rather than OS X. You can remove them all by dragging that folder to the trash, but check first to make sure no valuable documents have accidentally been filed anywhere in that folder. If you're sure you'll never want to run Classic mode again, you can also dispose of the folder called "System Folder". To do so, first drag the file called "Finder" out of it onto the desktop, then restart your Mac, then trash the System Folder and the Finder file you moved previously, and finally, empty the Trash.
If you have a folder or alias at the root level of your hard drive called "Desktop (OS 9)", trash that too, after making sure once again that no valuable documents reside in it.
Be aware, though, that all of this OS 9-related stuff is only likely to occupy 1-2GB on your hard drive, so if you think you might ever want to use Classic or boot into OS 9 again, keeping OS 9 on your hard drive will cost you very little in storage space. But I'm sure you have some applications you don't use, and you can certainly jettison those.
Note that if you use the Find command in the OS X Finder and select "Kind...Is...Application" in the pull-down menus at the bottom of the Find window, you'll get a list of all the applications on your Mac. In the Kind column of the hit list, all the Classic applications will be listed as such, while all the OS X applications will be listed only as "Application". This can help to identify Clasic applications if they aren't all in the "Applications (OS 9)" folder — as is likely to be the case.
Message was edited by: eww

What would you recommend as best quantity Ram. to run Lightroom and Photoshop CC?

What would you recommend as best quantity Ram. to run Lightroom and Photoshop CC?

Hi There,
Kindly check the system requirement for the same.
Photoshop: System requirements | Photoshop
Lightroom: System requirements | Lightroom
Thanks,
Atul Saini

Hi I have the old photo shop elements 10 on my computer and want to update and was wondering what the differences between photoshop, lightroom and photoshop elements are? Also when I upgrade does it have to be with a monthly membership or can I just purch

Hi I have the old photo shop elements 10 on my computer and want to update and was wondering what the differences between photoshop, lightroom and photoshop elements are?
Also when I upgrade does it have to be with a monthly membership or can I just purchase the product out right like you use to be able?

You cannot "update" from what you have to any of the applications you mention. It will have to be a straight purchase or subscription at full price.
Photoshop is a professional level application that makes no apologies for its very long and steep learning curve.
Lightroom is all about volume, and very light editing.
The Photoshop Elements forum is at:
https://forums.adobe.com/community/photoshop_elements/content
Remember, you are not addressing Adobe here in the user forums. You are requesting help from volunteers users just like you who give their time free of charge. No one has any obligation to answer your questions.
I do not know where there is such a comparison table as you seek, but someone else might, or you can google.

I have dell xps it runs at 3840 x 2167 and bridge lightroom and photoshop are unusable as the type is so small if win is re scaled to a low res the products still use full res and you canot see text can you help!

I am about to buy the above products for home and a laptop I bought the high res laptop for editing photos and the photos look great on the display but I cannot use photo shop and lightroom
has any body had this problem and is there a simple fix that I have missed
taking the res down in the control panel reduces the res but does not effect the programme
by the way the dell xps is great
dave

Thanks for the info I know that there were problems with the high res
I am using the latest photoshop and bridge from the cloud but only using the trial copy at the
moment
I will look closer and try to scale it to a suitable level
thanks dave
Original message----
From : [email protected]
Date : 06/02/2015 - 00:39 (GMTST)
To : [email protected]
Subject : i have dell xps it runs at 3840 x 2167 and bridge lightroom and photoshop are unusable as the type is so small if win is re scaled to a low res the products still use full res and you canot see text can you help!
    i have dell xps it runs at 3840 x 2167 and bridge lightroom and photoshop are unusable as the type is so small if win is re scaled to a low res the products still use full res and you canot see text can you help!
    created by gener7 in Photoshop General Discussion - View the full discussion
There is that pitfall in buying HiDpi laptops for Windows.
Only Photoshop CC 2014 has the option to scale the UI 200% in order to make it usable on these hires screens.
CC and earlier does not have this and Adobe would have to retrofit them. Not likely with older products.
Gene
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In Creative Cloud, does the $9.99/month Individual Photography plan come with BOTH Lightroom and Photoshop CC?

In Creative Cloud, does the $9.99/month Individual Photography plan come with BOTH Lightroom and Photoshop CC? It is not very clear on the home page. It shows both and mentions both, but doesn't specifically say BOTH come with the monthly $9.99/month plan. Can somebody clarify?

Special Photography Plan
http://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/differences-photoshop-creative-cloud-photography.html

I purchased lightroom and photoshop a week ago and installed it successfully on my new iMac. the open box iMac ended up being a lemon so i had to exchange it for a new one. best buy wiped the old computer clean. now id like to reinstall the lightroom a

I purchased lightroom and photoshop a week ago and installed it successfully on my new iMac. the open box iMac ended up being a lemon so i had to exchange it for a new one. best buy wiped the old computer clean. now id like to reinstall the lightroom and photoshop to my new computer but i don't know how. help!

Download and install the trial version from http://www.adobe.com/downloads.html and activate it with your serial number or Adobe ID.

Just got the Lightroom and Photoshop and it's showing the Error 213:5. What sould I do?

Hi guys
Today i just got the Lightroom and Photoshop. I already installed on my MAC OS Yosemite but when I try to open both app, i receive the error 213:5
What should I do?
Thx

Perhaps this thread could help: Error: 213:5 Mac CS 6

My Question is: I have a Lightroom 5 software buyed single on my MAC. If now I buy a CC Pack with Lightroom and Photoshop...what happened? How I can install AGAIN a other version of lightroom 5 ?! and this is necessary because the version included in pack

My Question is: I have a Lightroom 5 software buyed single on my MAC. If now I buy a CC Pack with Lightroom and Photoshop...what happened? How I can install AGAIN a other version of lightroom 5 ?! and this is necessary because the version included in pack has a mobile function that my actual version don't has. Thanks to help.
Can live two version equal of lightroom on same MAC ?
mmm .... I Doubt...
Suggestion.. ?

My Question is: I have a Lightroom 5 software buyed single on my MAC. If now I buy a CC Pack with Lightroom and Photoshop...what happened? How I can install AGAIN a other version of lightroom 5 ?! and this is necessary because the version included in pack has a mobile function that my actual version don't has. Thanks to help.
Can live two version equal of lightroom on same MAC ?
mmm .... I Doubt...
Suggestion.. ?

I bought the CC for a month it was $9.99 I downloaded CC but now what apps can I get is it lightroom and Photoshop?

I bought the CC for a month it was $9.99 I downloaded CC but now what apps can I get is it lightroom and Photoshop?

That is the photography plan, if you want more programs you need the full CC plan.

What is the difference from the creative cloud and having the lightroom and Photoshop?

what is the difference from the creative cloud and having the lightroom and Photoshop? I thought i was purchasing the lightroom and photoshop, but now I'm not sure that i got the right product because it only says i have creative cloud. Is there a way to change products without penalty

Hi Jessica,
The creative cloud complete plan has all the applications including Lightroom and Photoshop and there is a Photography plan which only includes Photoshop and Lightroom.
Creative Cloud pricing and membership plans | Adobe Creative Cloud
For switching the plan, please contact the support through call/chat:
Contact Customer Care
Regards,
Sheena

Printing: Lightroom and Photoshop

Ok...so today I tried to run my first print since getting lightroom. Quick run down on my color management (although I am still learning on this subject as well). My monitor is calibrated with an eye one display. My camera (Canon 300D) is set to AdobeRGB profile. I am running an Epson 2400, Ilford Smooth Pearl paper, with the profile provided from Ilford, and have it set to have the printer determine colors. And I am running Lightroom and Photoshop CS2.
I have been printing with this combonation beautifully for about a year now. I do have one small thing about my setup, even calibrated, my monitor is a little dark, so I must do a small curves adjustment on my final version to get the print to be perfect. I have accepted this (not the newest or best monitor) and just set an action to run before printing.
So, today, I tried to print from Lightroom. The print came out WAY too dark...I mean, my blue sky is a dark purple...odd. So I said, well I need this print, let me move it to photoshop, drop the curve and print from there. Well...the blue came out blue, but the image is still a little dark...I will play with the curve again to see if I can get it right. I don't have a problem with doing this for now, but I am wondering why the images are darker then they used to be, even in photoshop.
Also, can I create actions in Lightroom, something like develop presets that I can run AFTER I am done working on an image that we prep the document for print?
Sorry for the long post...thanks for any help...

So...you're using the canned profile from Ilford...and in Lightroom you've added that via "Other" correct? When you select that profile you are then using Lightroom color management and then you go into the Epson driver under Properties, Mode Custom and then select Off under Color Management, right? You've also selected the correct media that Ilford reccomends with the Pearl paper?
If you hit print from there than that should take care of it. Note however that if you change the page template, it _WILL_ change the print output settings making you update to the profile again.
So far, I get equal output results from Lightroom and Photoshop CS2/3 when using the same profile and printing under Mac or Win. So, if you are _NOT_ getting the same results, your settings are not equal-something somewhere is set incorrectly.

Update Macto Yosemite before downloading Lightroom and Photoshop?

I Have a desktop Mac with Lion version 10.7 on which I currently run Elements 10 and the Google Nik plug-ins. I am considering
upgrading my editing to the photography CC package of Lightroom and Photoshop CC.
In order to get the best out of these should I take the step of upgrading my desktop to Yosemite from the present Lion version?

Let's get a little more info on your computer:
Apple menu ---> about this mac
Then, What is your "Processor" & how much "Memory" do you have?

I need to change the storage hard drive for both lightroom and Photoshop from my C drive to F drive

How do I change my storage drive from C to F in both lightroom and photoshop as I am running out of space on my C drive?

Storage Drive ?? Photoshop. What Platform and OS are you running.
I use PC therefore Windows. When I thing about Application like Photoshop I know the are going to be files all over the place. Windows like everything installed on the Boot disk. I gave up the fight many years ago and let windows have it way when application are installed using an installer. However besides the application files you have user files and I break user files down into to categories. Windows User files like applications settings, preferences, cashes, etc and user Data Files, Images, text documents, PDF. Applications like Photoshop also have add-ons an need swap space as well. While all Windows default library reside on the C: drive you can add additional storage to you document, music, picture and video libraries the are not on the c: Most of my user data file are actually on external ESATA drives or USB3 drives. System files, Application Files, Paging, swapping and backup are on internal SSd and Fast Disk drive. Some of the folder that look like they are on C: are actually shortcut links to folders on other drives.

What os does lightroom and photoshop run best on? Mac or PC?

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