Wireless Problems: Observations/Possible Fix for Some (No Guarantees)

Hi All:
I have been following our wireless problem threads. To a large extent, they revolve around lost connections, weak signals, etc. On my machine, I previously noticed what appeared to be wide fluctuations in signal strength, although I could almost always pick up one distant network that has to be at least 125' away regardless of my apparent signal strength. Also, I never lost my connection. I also have noticed that my Windows notebooks pick up more networks than my MBP, even though some must be farther away than 125'.
Recently, I had to reinstall all my software. Once resolved I'll explain why and what to look out for. Anyway, before the reinstall, I had done all updates. When I reinstalled, I also did all updates. The bottom line is that I have not seen the wide fluctuations in signal strength since reinstalling. Sometimes I see more networks than I am used to seeing.
Am I suggesting that you reinstall to eliminate the types of problems mentioned above? Definitely not especially if your problem is pretty minor. However, if your problem is significant, then think about it. Perhaps a greater than expected number of partially bad factory installs accounts for some of our problems.
I finished my reinstall only about 24 hours ago. I'll continue to monitor and will post back if I begin to see the wide signal strength fluctuations again.

Nope, thanks. I certainly advocate all trying any possible fixes prior to taking the drastic step of reinstalling. Hope the update works for all. I must of installed it yesterday with a number of other updates. Thus, it wasn't what "fixed" my system. But, it looks like it didn't hurt it either. Both are good to know:) Gosh, and looking at some of the recent posts in this category, I am glad that none of the recent updates hosed anything on my machine. Then, I'd me reinstalling again and being more selective about the updates.
I have to admit I have been throwing caution to the wind on doing all the updates. I think I'd better go back to my old style of seeing if there are update rumblings before I install them.
Message was edited by: donv (The Ghost)
Message was edited by: donv (The Ghost)
Message was edited by: donv (The Ghost)

Similar Messages

  • Possible fix for some dlink routers with wifi issues

    I found something online that stated that if you turn off a feature  called WMM that it can help or fix some wifi issues, and on my dlink  dir-268 it seems to be working. Now without this feature turned off I  could connect to my wifi but not much else, with it off I have checked  websites online and also for the first time been able to download a  300MB+ file.  I dont know if it is still used on the newer dlink routers  but it could be at least a temp fix for some.  For my router it is located under the advanced/ advanced wireless settings
    Please post your results if you find this feature on your router, and list what model you have and if it worked so if it fixes problems for enough people mabe we can let dlink know of this find. could help in getting a fix out for the router firm ware or mabe even the android os.

    Wouldn't really be a fix... more a workaround. However...
    Both my Plus account, and a free test account I set up, don't have reliable push... so I think the problem is a little more complex than this.
    While there has been a theory that free accounts work (which I have not experienced), I don't think Apple or Yahoo have ever stated that push was only intended to work for free accounts...

  • [svn:fx-trunk] 10229: Fixes for some transform effects problems.

    Revision: 10229
    Author:   [email protected]
    Date:     2009-09-14 08:43:43 -0700 (Mon, 14 Sep 2009)
    Log Message:
    Fixes for some transform effects problems.
    - We were not animating the postLayout properties in some cases where we should have, effectively pinning the object in place. We now animate those properties whenever applyChangesPostLayout is true.
    - A copy/paste error meant that we did not animate the scaleZ property in cases where we should have.
    - A problem in the transform code means that using a null transform center is not the same as a transform center which uses the transformX/Y/Z properties of the target object. We now force the creation/use of a transform center in all cases to avoid that problem.
    QE notes: This breaks about a dozen tests in the transform effects area, but I believe the new results are correct and the tests/bitmaps should be changed.
    Doc notes: None
    Bugs: sdk-23177
    Reviewer: Hans
    Tests run: checkintests, Mustella transform effects
    Is noteworthy for integration: No
    Ticket Links:
        http://bugs.adobe.com/jira/browse/sdk-23177
    Modified Paths:
        flex/sdk/trunk/frameworks/projects/spark/src/spark/effects/AnimateTransform.as

  • Possible Fix for Printing Problems in Leopard

    I got this information from Mac OS X Leopard Edition book by David Pogue. Here's his possible fix for printing problems in Leopard...Open web browser and enter this address http://127.0.0.1:631. You'll find youself at a secret "front end" for CUPS (Common UNIX Printer System), the underlying printing technology for Mac OS X 10.5. This trick lets your Mac communicate with a huge array of older printers that dopn't yet have Mac OS X drivers. Using this administration screen, you can print a test page, stop your printer in its tracks, manage your networked printers and print jobs, and more–a very slick trick. Haven't tried it yet...anyone who does let me know how it worked!

    If you literally "checked" them, meaning the checkboxes, that only affects their visibility. To remove them, select one and then click on the "minus" part of the "plus minus" at lower left.
    Doug

  • Possible fix for CPU temp problem found.

    Well, one day I decided to take the heatsink off of the nForce3 chip and put some good ol' Arctic Silver thermal compound on there.  I figured it might help with overclocking and whatnot.  When I took it off, look what I found(!):
    Imagine my surprise!  Why did they even bother?  Ridiculous.  After removing their mistake, I put some Arctic Silver on there and re-attached the MSI heatsink (someday I'll probably buy a much better one for it).  I've noticed after a couple of days (it takes a little while for the thermal compound to set in) that the CPU temp doesn't appear to fluctuate wildly anymore.  Before I was getting crazy jumps from 45C to 65C, but now it hovers around 45C-47C idle and a little over 50C stressed.  I've also noticed that my overclocks are a bit more stable now too.  For those of you wondering, I'm using BIOS v1.1 at the moment (haven't tried v1.42 yet).
    Can anyone confirm these findings?  Maybe something else I did fixed my CPU temp issue (I do fiddle with the BIOS quite a bit).  My guess is that the nForce3 has a part in determining/reporting the CPU temperature.
    I hope this actually is a fix for some of you out there, but don't get your hopes up too high until at least one other person can confirm my theory.

    It's very easy to remove the MSI plate. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers pinch the fins on the heat sink on one side together (one at the top, one at the bottom). You don't have to do it too much and be careful. This provides enough slack for the plate to drop out with some slight assistance. Well, that's how I did mine.
    I then attached a 40mm fan by screwing into the gaps between the two fins. Only on the one side mind (so 2 screws in total). It holds the fan fine, no rattling.  
    I have some Artic Silver adhesive and I did consider leaving the MSI plate in place and fixing the fan to it. But I wasn't sure how secure it would be. Plus the plate rattles already, imagine how it would behave with a fan stuck to it.  
    Unfortunately, I forgot to make a note of the NB temperature before I did it. And I can't for the life of me remember what it was. So I can't say, for sure, how it has effected the temperature. I'm sure it has though.  
    I suppose it's easy enough to disconnect the fan to find out. I might try that later...
    Running at 230x10 (stock = 200x10), MBM reports:
    Case = 37C
    CPU = 35C
    Sensor 3 = 49C
    The sensors are labelled by MBM, so I am assuming they respond to the correct items, ie the CPU temp is actually the CPU temp.
    This is after a hour or so with Azureus running, mIRC open, a couple of IE windows and SETI running at ~97% CPU
    When I take the side off to disconnect the fan again, I will take a picture.

  • Possible fix for errors 11503 and 50

    Here's a possible fix for Error 11503 and for error 50.
    It worked for me and hopefully it will work for you.
    I believe this error is caused by the incomplete downloading of either an update to an app. In my case it was caused by closing the lid on my laptop when I was downloading app updates on a very slow internet connection in a hotel.
    Anyway, here is what I did that fixed it completely.
    Close iTunes.
    Go to this folder : /iTunes/Mobile Applications/Downloads
    You'll find tmp files there. Drag them out of this folder to a temporary folder on your desktop. The Downloads folder should now be empty.
    Restart iTunes.
    All should be fine.
    If it is, delete the desktop folder with all the temp files.
    If it's not, then I can't help further, but that's what worked for me.

    Several possible causes from the info you gave
    Battery level low - recharge it for at least 4 hours till the full charge sign displays (2 prong icon instead of lightning icon).
    Time to Reset the iPod - Press the Menu and center Button for about 10 secs till the Apple logo comes ON, then let go of the buttons.
    your hardisk is starting to give problems, hence the skipping and some song refuse to play. - Do a disk diagnostic - follow this post by tt2.
         https://discussions.apple.com/message/17028567#17028567
    If you have updated any sofware application in Windows, then follow this Apple support procedure
    http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1539
    Most likely you have to do all, as the iPod hardisk filesystem would have been corrupted, or else the iPod Reset would bring it to normal operation.
    Good Luck!

  • What is the fix for some applications repeatedly asking permission to accept incoming connections?

    What is the fix for some applications repeatedly asking permission to accept incoming connections?
    On every restart, AutoPairs and Epson Event Manager asks me to reject or agree to allow incoming connections. It is very aggravating and time-wasting. I know other Mac users who have the identical problem with other applications on their Macs.
    Isn't there some way to make my Mac understand that "Yes" means "Yes" once and for all?
    I am presently running Yosemite, but this was a problem with prior OS X versions too.
    Respectfully,
    Nate

    This is a comment on why you might, or might not, want to use the built-in Application Firewall.
    The firewall blocks incoming network traffic, regardless of origin, on a per-application basis. By default it's off, and when turned on, it allows applications digitally signed by Apple, and only those applications, to listen on the network. It does not block outgoing traffic, nor can it distinguish between different sources of incoming traffic, nor does it filter traffic by content.
    No matter how it's configured, the firewall is not, as some imagine, a malware filter. If that's what you expect it to do, forget it. All it will do is bombard you with pointless alerts.
    Consider some scenarios in which you may expect the firewall to be useful.
    1. You enable file sharing, and you allow guest access to certain folders. That means you want people on your local network, but not outsiders, to be able to access those shared folders without having to enter a password. In the default configuration, the firewall will allow that to happen. The router prevents outsiders from accessing the shares, whether the application firewall is on or off. But if your computer is portable and you connect it to an untrusted network such as a public hotspot, the firewall will still allow access to anyone, which is not what you want. It does not protect you in this scenario.
    2. You unknowingly install a trojan that steals your data and uploads it to a remote server. The firewall, no matter how it's configured, will not block that outgoing traffic. It does nothing to protect you from that threat.
    3. A more likely scenario: The web browser or the router is compromised by an attacker. The attack redirects all web traffic to a bogus server. The firewall does not protect you from this threat.
    4. You're running a public web server. Your router forwards TCP connection requests on port 80 to your Mac, and the connections are accepted by the built-in web server, which is codesigned by Apple. The application firewall, still configured as above, allows this to happen. An attacker hacks into the system and tries to hijack port 80 and replace the built-in web server with one that he controls. The good news here is that the firewall does protect you; it blocks incoming connections to the malicious server and alerts you. But the bad news is that you've been rooted. The attacker who can do all this can just as easily turn off the firewall, in which case it doesn't protect you after all.
    5. You're running a Minecraft server on the local network. It listens on a high-numbered port. You, as administrator, have reconfigured the firewall to pass this traffic. An attacker is able to log in to a standard account on the server. He figures out how to crash Minecraft, or he just waits for you to quit it, and then he binds his own, malicious, Minecraft server to the same port. The firewall blocks his server, and because he's not an administrator, he can't do anything about it. In this scenario, the security is genuine.
    6. Here is a more realistic scenario in which you might have reason to enable the firewall. Your MacBook has sharing services enabled. You want those services to be available to others on a home or office network. When you're on those networks, the firewall should be off. When you move to an untrusted network, you can either turn off all the services, or enable the firewall with a non-default configuration to block them. Blocking is easier: one click instead of several.

  • Possible fix for OS X 10.5.7,  losing connection after sleep, restart

    Possible fix for OS X 10.5.7, Airport, losing connection after sleep, restart, or cold reboot.
    Issue: (For OS X 10.5.7 on iMac5,1, Intel Core 2 Duo)
    =============================================
    - After sleep, restart, cold reboot, even though cannot connect to Internet, but the AirPort bars are still full, as if connected.
    - Losing Internet connection after sleep, restart, cold reboot.
    Possible Fix:
    1.Open Network Preference, click on the Location drop down list > Edit Location... > click on the wheel button > Duplicate Location.
    a)Select this newly setup location; Use Diagnostic button to connect to the internet. Select Network or enter WEP password if necessary.
    b)Test to make sure you can connect to a web page.
    c)Go to sleep & wake up.
    d)This time, the Airport bar will start to show correctly. Before, it will always be full even when not connected. Now there will be no bars or grey out when not connected.
    2.On the left hand side of the Network Preference Window, there is a list of services, such as Airport, build-in ethernet, built-in FireWire, bluetooth, etc.
    a)Click on the wheel button on the bottom of the service list; select Set Service Order...; move Airport to the top of the list.
    b)Delete any services which you are sure that you are not going to use, such as Bluetooth, etc.
    3.Pick one of the locations mentioned in #1, and make it sure it is connected. If not, use Diagnostic button. If you have to select Network or enter WEP password to connect, make it so.
    a)Check to make sure you can connect to a web page.
    4.Go to sleep & wake up. The Airport bar should be filled up quickly. Try to connect to a web page.
    5.Restart computer. Test a web page.
    6.Shut down & Start computer. Test a web page.
    7.When everything is working fine, you can delete the extra location that you created in step #1.
    8.Click the lock on the left lower corner of the Network Preference window to safeguard the setting.

    If my assessment is correct, the LIDE 200 driver is version 14.8.1 and dated 26-Sep-2008. It is possible that the driver will not work with the latest version of OSX. I would advise that you contact Canon and ask them the question.
    (Removed link because of the way Flash drives the Canon site).
    It is not uncommon (though irritating) that devices no longer work when an OS is upgraded. One has to ask the question if (or why) the driver was not written in such a way as to be OS version independent.
    Chris
    I spoke to Canon over here in Australia. Not helpful at all. In fact they were about as useful as an ashtray on on motorcycle. Having said that the tech seemed to think that there would be an update soon. But that is assuming that Canon are aware that there is a problem with that Scanner under OS X 10.5.7.
    Message was edited by: 2point5

  • Possible fix for Adobe PDF plug ins (Safari & Print) on Snow Leopard

    I think I just discovered a "fix" for the Adobe PDF problem, as well as for some other miscelanious problems with Snow Leopard applications. I found the fix for the plug in from PDF on Adobe's website. http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/509/cpsid_50983.html
    Following these directions (changing the option from 64-bit, to 32-bit when the application loads), seems to have cured the plug-in for PDF from Adobe and loads the plug in properly.
    There is a link, http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/512/cpsid_51248.html for changing the settings similarly for Automator to fix the "save as PDF" in Print.
    I've also applied this "suggested fix" to Mail and Address Book, to see if it remedies some of the continued glitching and crashes on my iMac, even after the latest update (10.6.1). No problems with my PBG4, as it's not Snow Leopard nor Intel.
    Hope this solution is useful.

    I am having the same problem from CS4 Illustrator
    cups/error_log shows:
    D [10/May/2010:10:53:31 -0700] [Job 87] Opening Distiller
    D [10/May/2010:10:53:31 -0700] [Job 87] Starting Distiller job
    D [10/May/2010:10:53:31 -0700] [Job 87] Distiller child 26366, exited with status 0
    D [10/May/2010:10:53:31 -0700] [Job 87] End of messages
    D [10/May/2010:10:53:31 -0700] [Job 87] printer-state=3(idle)
    D [10/May/2010:10:53:31 -0700] [Job 87] printer-state-message="/usr/libexec/cups/filter/pstops failed"
    D [10/May/2010:10:53:31 -0700] [Job 87] printer-state-reasons=none

  • I am thinking of buying a iPad but my main desktop machine uses Windows 7 and MS Office.  How easy or difficult is it to transfer data files between the iPad and Windows?  Are there obvious problems or the need for some form of conversion programs?

    I am thinking of buying a iPad but my main desktop machine uses Windows 7 and MS Office.  How easy or difficult is it to transfer data files between the iPad and Windows?  Are there obvious problems or the need for some form of conversion programs?
    Many thanks for any advice.
    David

    You don't need conversion programs, iTunes can copy most of your content over to the iPad via the file sharing section, and some apps also support Dropbox, email attachments, transfer via your wifi network. There are a number of apps that you can get that support Microsoft office file (microsoft don't make an app versions of their software) e.g. from Apple there are Pages (word support), Numbers (excel) and Keynote (powerpoint), and from third-parties there are apps such as Documents To Go and QuickOffice HD

  • [svn:fx-trunk] 11223: * Quick fix for some mxmlcunit failures.

    Revision: 11223
    Author:   [email protected]
    Date:     2009-10-28 07:12:00 -0700 (Wed, 28 Oct 2009)
    Log Message:
    Quick fix for some mxmlcunit failures.
    QE notes:
    Doc notes:
    Bugs: SDK-23865
    Reviewer: Gaurav
    Tests run: checkintests
    Is noteworthy for integration: No
    Code-level description of changes:
    Added null destination check to completeTwoWayBindings().
    Ticket Links:
        http://bugs.adobe.com/jira/browse/SDK-23865
    Modified Paths:
        flex/sdk/trunk/modules/compiler/src/java/flex2/compiler/mxml/rep/MxmlDocument.java

  • Possible Fix for the 3.1.1 app crash problem

    THIS IS A POSSIBLE FIX ONLY!!!
    So like many of you I upgraded to 3.1.1 and after the update all of my apps would no longer work. They contiually crashed to the home screen when I tried to open them. I tried downloading random new apps, deleting all my apps and re-installing them with no luck. I tried reseting the iPod and even restoring it through iTunes. I also tried de-authorizing and re-authorizing my computer. None of these things worked for me. Today I tried to go back to the 2.2.1 update (which is the only one I could find that would download) when I tried to upload that onto my iPod I got an error #20 so I ended up restoring back to 3.1.1 the only difference was i told iTunes to start my iPod as a new one instead of loading it from a backup. This actually worked, the only downside was I lost my favourited websites and all the saved info in my apps but hey, atleast they work.
    So long story short try wiping your iPod clean and restoring as a brand new one with the 3.1.1 and it might just just work.

    I just purchased the 64GB iPod touch and it had the same issues from the start. While I had the same issue with the apps I also had intermittent problems with movies not working. I reset the entire iPod touch 64gb and re-synced as 'new' (described earlier) and it is working for now. I am planning on loading some new apps and movies and re-syncing to see if it stays working.
    Also, I upgraded from 3.1.1 to 3.1.2 and everything stopped working again. I am staying on 3.1.1 as long as this solution keeps working until I see something from Apple addressing this issue.
    Apple usually does a better job with their software. I am hoping that this is only a software issue and not a hardware issue.

  • Ipod update freeze, firewire problem, possible fix for many.

    Hello all,
    I've been having a problem with my ipod 3rd gen updating in much the same way as many in this forum have throughout a number of topic threads.
    PROBLEM:
    During song/playlist/content (not software update or restore) updating function one of two things would happen:
    - update would freeze at some point of the transfer (5, 74, 687 songs in to the update) and I would have to force quite itunes and, not being able to dismount the ipod through recommended procedure, I would physically dismount the ipod and receive a scolding for improper dismounting of device.
    - system would crash at some point of the transfer yielding the shaded screen and a prompt to restart the computer by depressing the front panel button for two seconds.
    In each of the above cases, no matter how many songs that itunes thought it had transferred, I would only have about a dozen songs on the ipod itself, perhaps indicating a bottleneck on the G4 end of the transfer.
    DEADENDS FOR ME THAT MAY STILL SOLVE PROBLEM FOR SOME:
    - swaping out cables
    - ipod software restore or restore to earlier version
    SOLUTION:
    After contacting Apple support, I was led to the opinion that the problem was with the firewire port itself. This was confirmed by attaching my ipod with my cable to a roomates G5 resulting in a faultless transfer of his song library. I was ready to go out and purchase a new firewire PCI card but decided to research firewire problems in the G4 folder of Discussions. This is where I found the fix to my problem (see links at bottom of document). It would seem that Mac ports, both firewire and USB, have a tendency to bog down after awhile and need to be reset. This can be a addressed by one of three possible solutions. The first and easiest was the solution that worked for me (for other solutions please follow links at bottom of page):
    - powered down and disconnected all firewire and USB cables from the G4
    - disconnected power cable from G4 (for laptops I would guess that the battery would need to be removed, not sure if that causes any other problems though, please research)and let sit for about 30 minutes.
    - reconnected all cables and restarted computer. Ports should be reset at that point
    - I took the added measure to restart my computer once with nothing attached to USB and firewire ports and then powering down with front panel button before connecting cables and proceding with final restart.
    RESULT:
    Faultless transfer of 37.6 gigs of content in less that 45 minutes.
    LINKS:
    http://discussions.info.apple.com/webx?128@@.68bb1cb3
    Dale Weisshaar, "Security Update killed my firewire ports" #1, 08:28pm Sep 27, 2005 CDT
    Good Luck
    GKE

    This worked perfectly for me!!!
    SOMEBODY PLEASE TAG THIS POST!!!
    i have had the problem that everyone has posted about (i.e. - updated iTunes/iPod software and had the update/freeze problem, tried all solutions, to no avail, and was pretty much screwed.)
    JUST DO EXACTLY WHAT HE SAYS TO DO (powermac g5, by the way):
    1) power down the computer
    2) unplug EVERYTHING (usb, firewire, power, monitor, etc.)
    3) leave unplugged for 30 minutes
    4) plug power back in
    5) power up from main power button
    6) wait for computer to start back up, then shut down from power button
    7) plug everything back in and power up
    8) restart once more for good measure
    9) update your ipod
    10) take a sigh of relief!
    you are seriously a godsend...only one thing...I BOUGHT A NEW ONE ALREADY!!! i literally bought it the day that you posted this solution. After a month and a half of trying to fix this problem, i finally gave up and bought a 20GB iPod Photo with applecare...cost me about $380.
    no matter, i think i'm gonna sell my "older" ipod to my mom or dad. they'll use it doing whatever they do. plus, that way, if there's any problem, i can fix it for them without feeling bad about screwing over some stranger.
    thanks again, this solution worked perfectly.

  • Possible Fix for Disc Image Creation Problems

    I've noticed a number of posts describing problems similar to the one I had: with my first session with iDVD5, I tried creating an .img disc image (thanks to Apple, btw, for building that function in -- and for the new progress bars!), but it hung up all night long on the "Burn" task, and I had to force quit, leaving me with no image at all.
    I used disk image burning exclusively in iDVD4, because it allowed me to preview the result before committing it to a physical burn and prevented coaster-burning if something went wrong. I had had buffer problems when burning directly from iDVD -- but never with Disk Utility.
    Of course, in iDVD4, you cannot just burn a disk image using the app. Most are aware that using "Hurz" and "Pfurz" (see posts under iDVD4) provided a great workaround, however, and that's what I used.
    Well, it occurred to me that perhaps Hurz and Pfurz -- which basically interfered with iDVD4 to the user's advantage -- ought NOT to be in play with iDVD5. So I removed them from my user folder, et voila -- the very next time I tried the disk image function in iDVD5 (with the same project), it worked perfectly.
    But I can only SUSPECT that this was the solution, unfortunately, because of the fact that an automated maintenance script had repaird my permissions in the meantime. The problem might have been permission troubles resulting from installation.
    I do know this: removing Hurz and Pfurz and repairing the permissions worked for me. Hope it does for some others as well!

    Thanks, Len. I kind of wish Apple would make a bigger deal of this. Repairing permissions fixes ALL KINDS OF THINGS! And it is a VERY good idea to do it regularly.
    Like you, I do it once a week, using a wonderful freeware utililty called Onyx (search MacWorld or Google for it), which has a number of advantages over Disk Utility.
    In the first place, it will execute all the maintenance scripts as well. You might know that OSX has a number of scripts it runs in the background for maintenance, some daily, some weekly, and some monthly. But they are generally set to run late at night, which means you need to leave the computer ON and AWAKE. I don't do this as much as I should, so running Onyx ensures that these scripts get run. Since using Onyx, I have NEVER had a crash.
    Secondly, I can schedule it to do all this automatically, which is great - because I'm getting old . . . and I forget things. . . .

  • Possible fix for problems with Location Services!!!!

    Alright, I had just bought a brand new iPod Touch 5th Generation and was having trouble with any app that used Location services (Siri, Weather, Maps, etc) and it was driving me absolutely crazy. Now, I live in a very VERY rural area in Pennsylvania (basically the middle of nowhere) and my new iTouch kept saying "cannot determine location" no matter what app I was using that utilized Location Services. After 4-5 days straight of searching various websites looking for help (including this one), I came up completely empty handed and had pretty much given up on getting it to work correctly. Somewhere along the line, I found out about Skyhook Wireless and the process for adding my wireless network to their database. I thought to myself "What the heck? It can't hurt to at least try..." even after reading on multiple websites that Apple no longer works with Skyhook. So I gave it a shot,..
    I went to the following website: http://skyhookwireless.com/howitworks/submit_ap.php
    I entered my address into the first empty text field and then clicked the "MAP IT" button.
    It deteremined where I was (pretty darn accurately if I say so myself) so I moved on and entered my Wireless Router's MAC Address in the corresponding field.
    Then I entered my email address in the corresponding field, completed the CAPTCHA, and hit "SUBMIT".
    I received an email a few moments later from Skyhook letting me know they had successfully received my submission and then I sat back for a few moments, crossing my fingers and hoping for the sake of my sanity that it had worked.
    After about an hour or so, I tried to get my local weather using the Weather app that comes pre-installed on iOS. Still, it couldn't find my current location. the Maps app gave me the same result.
    I sat here planning my next course of action and came up with...you guessed it....nothing!
    I said screw it and went about my business for the day. A few days went by and I was visiting a very good friend of mine and I had my iTouch with me. Now my friend lives even further in the sticks than I do but for some unknown and shocking reason, my location services worked PERFECT at their house (every single app I tried that in one way or another used Location Services, it worked every time) so I asked my friend if it would be alright with them to go grab my wireless router and switch with them for a day or two, just as a last ditch effort for the sake of science and my own sanity. They said it wouldn't be a problem at all. So we traded wireless routers for a day or two.
    Upon hooking their router up at my house and using the Weather & Maps apps, it still showed up that I was still at their house and showed the local weather for the town that was nearest to them. I was like "Hey, it's better than nothing!" so I left it go for a day or two.
    Upon arriving at my friends house to grab my original router and give them back their original router, I checked my iTouch and, lo & behold, it showed my home as my current location and the correct local weather for the city/town closest to my home address, even though I was at their house. I felt so dumbfounded and almost cried because I had actually gotten it to work. I unhooked my original router, hooked my friend's back up, and it showed up that I was exactly where I was supposed to be - at my friend's house.
    I brought my original router back to my house, hooked it up and Cha-CHING! It WORKED!!!!! It showed that I was at my house and showed the correct local weather.
    And there you have it, How I was able to solve my location services woes.
    I'm not saying it will help out everybody else's location service problems but it is worth a shot, it worked for me.
    If this DOES help anyone else out, please reply so as to confirm that it wasn't just me that it works for.

    Thank you @sberman for a fast replay, I read the article, but still it doesn't explain why it doesn't show at least that I'm in Europe,while my android phone,having set just wifi as location reference, shows my position at 1km accurately(I don't live in a city,that's why such a big radius) in Google Maps.I also saw the time zone, if I set it automatically,detection through wifi doesn't work, it just keeps refreshing.

Maybe you are looking for