Zero out GL balances

The assets were not working in current system because depreciation was not run for past few years. we are loading assets all over again. since the assets were not working, the postings were made to depreciation expense account as journal entries. similarly postings were made to the apc and accumulated depreciationa ccount through FB50. now when we load the asset balances in AS91, they will duplicate as they already got balances in apoc account and dpereciation account (that are non recon accounts), so we will have to zero out the balances in these accounts. also will have to zero out balances in depreciation expense account since they already posted to this account for the whole year of 2009, they willneed to be zeroed out till their go live date which is somewhere in august.
How do we zero out the accounts. DO we create conversion accounts for zeroing out these balances in addition to the conversiona ccount already created to load GL balances. Or can we use the same conversion account that we created for GL. Is there any other way to zero them out?

You can use the same conversion account that is created for GL or create a diff account , it shoudn't really matter either of the cases would work
but why do you want to keep 2 dioff conversion accounts for zeroing the balances , accordign to me one should be enough.

Similar Messages

  • Account Balance Zeroed Out 2013-12-21

    My wife's prepaid wireless account balance of $293+ was zeroed out today for some reason.
    Calling either of the customer service number provided only results in prompts to add money to the account, and of course, nobody uses their phone on the weekend, so there's no humans around.
    Why did I think this would never happen sooner or later with Verizon?

    I figured I'd come back with an update.
    I have two phone accounts, they both are on autopay, and they both draw payments from a single Amex account on the same day of the month.  This never caused a problem before.
    The theory is that Verizon submitted the two transactions to Amex so close together that Amex considered them duplicates.
    This is plausible given the fact that two "pre-authorization" transcations hit the Amex account, but only one ended up being paid.
    So I've moved up the payment date on one of the accounts.  I made a manual payment to restore the account and Verizon has said they will restore the funds that expired; hopefully that will occur in timely fashion.

  • Disk Utility: Differences between "Zero Out Data" and "7-Pass Erase"?

    I'm wondering if anyone knows if there's a significant difference between the "Zero Out Data" erase option in Disk Utility (specifically Disk Utility 10.5.5), and the "7-Pass Erase" and "35-Pass Erase" options in same software.
    Here's why I'm asking: I have a co-worker with an iMac G5 20" 1.8GHz with 160GB internal hard drive. As a result of the power supply overheating a week ago due to dust, some hard drive problems resulted. I'm trying to assess whether these are 'soft' formatting problems that can be recovered from, or 'hard' problems requiring replacement of the hard drive and/or power supply.
    Following the failure, I removed the dust and restored the iMac to servicable form. The power supply seems to be OK now. The next thing was to attempt to recover as much data as possible from the 160GB, as the last full backup was a week old. Carbon Copy Cloner, shell copy via 'sudo cp -p -R -v', Finder copy, and DiskWarrior recovery all met with problems. TechTool Pro identified a huge swatch of unreadable sectors during repeated surface scans. Unfortunately, these unreadable sectors were located midway in the OSX boot partition (an 80GB partition), and not in the other 80GB partition devoted to lower priority video data.
    When I was satisfied I had backed up the data to the best of my abilities, I next set out to reformat the drive and see if the bad sectors could be eliminated or remapped out of existence. I did a "Zero Out Data" erasure in Disk Utility (with no errors during the erase), but TechTool Pro showed the bad sectors persisted in equal strength at the same location. I next executed a sixteen hour "7-Pass Erase" (again no errors, and confirming that it takes about an hour per 10GB). The next day when I ran TechTool pro, all of the sector errors had disappeared. I'm a bit perplexed as to why the "7-Pass Erase" seems to have recovered the use of the drive. Is it possible that there are simply thousands of bad sectors now remapped that I'm not seeing? [If so, how do I check for this?] TechTool Pro has not reported any S.M.A.R.T. issues to date on the drive. What am I to make of that?
    There are some related threads I've checked into, but I'm not sure how to properly assess my situation based on this information:
    <http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=232007>
    <http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=138559>
    <http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=118455>
    Since the iMac has three weeks left on it's one year warranty, and I've already moved the user to another machine temporarily, I'm thinking that the smart thing to so is to send it in to Apple to have them look at the power supply and hard drive. That way, when it returns, even if there is still a lingering hardware problem, at least it will be covered under warranty for another 90 days.
    Any thoughts?
    iMac G5 20" 1.8GHz   Mac OS X (10.4.6)   1.25GB RAM, 160GB hard disk, SuperDrive

    HI, Bret.
    The only differences between "Zero Out Data", "7-Pass Erase", and "35-Pass Erase" are the number of times a binary zero is written to every bit on the disk. "Zero Out Data" writes a binary zero once, whereas the 7- and 35-Pass options write a zero seven and 35 times, respectively.
    Technically, one pass with Zero Out Data should be sufficient to map bad sectors out of service, a process also known as sparing. If a bad sector is encountered, it is both marked as "in use" in the directory's allocation table and added to the directory's "bad blocks file."
    My understanding is that the Surface Scan of Tech Tool Pro should identify bad sectors every time it is run unless the bad sectors have been locked out by the drive controller of the ATA drive itself. This is because Surface Scan checks the entire surface of the disk.
    What may have happened is that running "Zero Out Data" spared the bad blocks from a directory standpoint, but did not result in the drive's controller locking out those sectors for reasons detailed in the "Surface Scan" section of the Tech Tool Pro manual. However, the 7-Pass Erase may have resulted in the drive's controller locking out the bad sectors and why Surface Scan did not pick them up after such.
    Given the problems you described, I concur with your plan to have Apple check the affected computer. You might also want to consider purchasing an AppleCare Protection Plan for that Mac: I recommend and buy these for all my Macs.
    For some additional information on bad sectors, see the "Bad Sectors" section of my "Resolving Disk, Permission, and Cache Corruption" FAQ.
    Good luck!
    Dr. Smoke
    Author: Troubleshooting Mac® OS X
    Note: The information provided in the link(s) above is freely available. However, because I own The X Lab™, a commercial Web site to which some of these links point, the Apple Discussions Terms of Use require I include the following disclosure statement with this post:
    I may receive some form of compensation, financial or otherwise, from my recommendation or link.

  • Hard Drive problems / unable to Zero out Data etc.

    Hallo.
    Here is the problem: I have several WD Raptor Hard drives 74 GB working without problems. One of them is my system drive , others are used as Sample libraries HD or HD for recorded audio (I have Firmtek SATA card so I can use more SATA disks...). This summer I bougt new WD Raptor ADFD 150 GB drive to expand my storage for Audio Data... But I encountered a few problems like when I tried to copy a folder from this HD to another and this folder was quite big (15 GB or more) , it never get copied completly and the copiyng freezed in the middle or alike. So I had to move subfolders of this "big" folder manually... Also when I backupped Data from this drive to another with Apple Backup 3 it SOMETIMES did not backup and freezed. This happened in case of creating new backup file to new location, not when backupped to location with already existing backup file.
    I tested the drive with the OSX Disk Utility (Verify Disk) and it said it was OK. Than I tested it with Tech Tool Pro 4 (Surface Scan) and it found a few ( two, sometimes three) bad sectors. Sometimes TecToolPro also freezed and I had to Force Quit it or shut down my Mac by pressing the Power button. So I moved the data away from this disk and tried to Erase it (Zero Out Data) with Disk Utility. Disk Utility started and reported that it will take 27 minutes. But after a few minutes it freezed and did not finish eerasingúzeroing the disk (I let it for whole night...). And Disk utility freezed so I had to Force Quit it. I tried it many times without success. Disk utility only could Erase it or create new partition but never Zero Out Data. Than I tried to Zero Out this disk in SoftRaid utility (even this disk was not in SoftRAID or any RAID setup) and it worked. But after I Scanned it's surface in Tech Tool Pro again, it found the bad sectors again...
    So I took the disk to my computer dealer and he gave me new one - the same WD Raptor ADFD 150 model. I installed it (in lower bay inside my G5) , initialized in Disk Utility and than I did run the Surface Scan test in Tech Tool Pro. I could see the number of block that were tested increase for a while but than it stopped for a few minutes (10 or more ) and after a while it reported that it found 39 bad sectors! Wow! Fresh new Hard Drive! So again I tried the whole process: to Zero Out this new disk in Disk Utility and Disk Utility freezed. But SoftRaid utility Zeroed this disk successfully - but than after this procedure TechToolPro reported that 1 bad sector was found... I need to say that the Surface Scan test in Tech Tool Pro never got finished (only once when I let it work for about 6 hours) as it reported about bad block(s) after a few minutes or it freezed after a few minutes...
    SO I took this new disk and installed it to a PC I have and I tested it with Western Digital Datalifeguard diagnostic utility (from Floppy disk). All tests were fine. It also wrote Zeroes to whole disk without problems. Fine. I reinstalled the disk back to my Mac and even before I initialized it in Disk Utility I tried to Scan it's Surface in Tech tool Pro. After a fef minutes it probably freezed , as it is scanning Block 19744512 for ever now - and it found three bad sectors already...
    So what do you think about my situation? Shall I trust the Western Digital diagnostic utility (but on a PC) or should I visit my dealer again?
    PS-I have Tech Tool Pro 4.1.2
    Message was edited by: Diamond Dog

    Something to try:
    Open Disk Utility (Applications > Disk Utility)
    Select your external HD on the left side of the Disk Utility window
    Check the partition map scheme, near the bottom of the Disk Utility window
    If it is not GUID (assuming you have an Intel iMac), consider repartitioning your HD to GUID. The Windows partition scheme on many external HDs. FAT 32, often has problems accepting large data transfers from Mac-partitioned hard drives.

  • How do I properly zero out or erase the hard drives in my early 2009 Mac Pro 4,1 tower?

    How do I properly zero out or erase the hard drives in my early 2009 Mac Pro 4,1 tower?
    I assume there are already instructions on Apple.com someplace but haven't seen them yet… I have to one terabyte drives one the operating system the other is blank I want to start fresh I want to zero out both drives but I didn't want to make any mistakes
    I know I can use disk utility to 0 Out Dr., #2 that means I will have to take out the operating system hard drive out of my 2008 Mac Pro and put it into my 2009 Mac Pro to use the disk utility to zero out drive one the OS drive in my 2009 Mac Pro am my correct
    I just need a little bit a help I want to go slow so I don't make any mistakes with the sleds or with the erasing process which journaled to choose encrypted or not etc. etc.
    Furthermore is there instructions on the site on how to change the hard drive into a different sled because the sleds and my 2009 are different than my 2008 any advice
    Thank you

    I'm doing this because my friend told me that zeroing out the drive can nap bad sectors and also later for some kind of diagnostics usage of the drive or something like that he wasn't really clear
    My friend was really specific he said choose the option that writes zero's once over the drive that is plenty good enough I was inclined to use the maximum seven write ...I just want to make sure the drive has no bad sectors and that's it's it's zeroed out for possible future diagnostics usage or something that he said was usable later
    he also advised me to run a test on it but I don't have the software you mentioned or the software that he has… So I may have to take the drives over to his house unless you have some kind of free software that's easy to use that you could suggest that will not only zero out the drive but test the drive completely
    I am completely new to Mac I'm no dummy but at the same time I'm not super technically capable I mean I can surprise myself I'm pretty good but I need a good teacher… How expensive is this lifeguard software?
    Thank you

  • Can I do a clean install of Lion, onto my Mac Book Pro4,1, that is currently running 10.5.8? I have seen U-tube videos on how to do a clean install to Snow Leopard, and another from SL to Lion, but can zero out my HD, and do a clean install to Lion?

    Can I do a clean install of Lion, onto my Mac Book Pro4,1, that is currently running 10.5.8? I have seen U-tube videos on how to do a clean install to Snow Leopard, and another from SL to Lion, but can zero out my HD, and do a clean install to Lion?

    See this article.

  • How can I zero out offset voltage at the start of the program?

    I have a simple program that reads a voltage input and outputs the results to a file. The voltage has an offset (which changes from test to test), and I am interested in zeroing out this value at the start of acquisition. I could use an example of how to do this. Thanks.

    Try this simple method...
    Right click on the icon which represents the offset voltage. Select create: Invoke Node.
    Use the finger pointer and click on the "Method" of the newly created Invoke Node. Choose "Reinit To Dflt"
    Place this Invoke Node at the beginning of your vi by running the Error In through it.
    And "voila"... everytime you run your vi, it will reinitialize it to the default value... which can be zero.
    You can use the same trick to re-initialize values if a certain condition is met within your vi.
    -have fun-
    JLV

  • Need help to install & use iErase app to zero out iPhone after restoring/erasing

    I  plan on buying a ew  iPhone5 and trading in my iPhone 3GS.   After doing much research on the topic, I've learned  that the  best way to  ensure that no one  can find personal data on my old  phone is to  restore it to the factory settings thus "erasing" all of my  data and then to install and run the iErase app that will zero out the hard drive.   I  bought iErase on itunes and t's on my computer.  I restored my old  iphone (erasing all my purchased apps  including iErase)  but  when I connect it to my computer to reinstall the iErase  app, it syncs and  reinstalls all of my personal settings, data, etc..   Am I missing a step?   After restoring my phone, it seems  that I might have  to go into itunes on the phone and repurchase  iErase  ($6.99).  The app  iis designed to zero out the free space on the phone and will not touch  whatever  is installed.  Thus I will have to enter my itunes password etc. which won't  get zeroed out.  I suppose I can just change  that later.  Any  suggestions?
    Thanks

    What's a DFU mode restore?
    Also, I  read the reviews as  well  as others  on different  sites and it seems  that some people  aren't using the  app correctly.  It only zeros  out  free space on the  phone.  Many  seem to think that it will delete everything on the phone.  That's incorrect.  If you install and run it without restoring or  ersaing your phone first, it will look like nothing happened.  All of your info, apps and personal data will still be there.  You have  to delete all that stuff first (thus designating it as free space) and  then run ierase to zero out the deleted info.  At least, that's my understanding of how it works.

  • Question about zeroing out data...

    I'm currently zeroing out my Time Capsule's hard drive and starting fresh with backing up. I started doing a 7 pass method the other day, but figured it was overkill and bad on the hard drive, so I stopped it a quarter of the way through pass 2. Does this mean that at least the one full pass was done successfully? Also, to make sure that everything is truly zeroed out, I started a one-time zero out erase. So, does this mean, then, that my TC truly has been zeroed out twice for starting over on my backups?
    And, while we're on the subject, I did some research on zeroing out data. Most people are in agreement that doing one pass is good enough. Apple recommends twice for a fully secure wipe. While researching this, I found that some claim that zeroing out a hard drive during a 7 pass and 35 pass method significantly decreases the lifespan of a hard drive. Is this myth busted or confirmed? Also, is zeroing out data only once already harmful to an HD's lifespan?

    William Boyd, Jr. wrote:
    apple_kmj wrote:
    I'm currently zeroing out my Time Capsule's hard drive and starting fresh with backing up.
    I'll leave to others the answering of your questions, but I have one of my own: What are you hoping to accomplish by zeroing out your Time Capsule's drive? I would only consider that useful if I were planning to sell or otherwise dispose of a Time Capsule.
    I heard that it's the best way to go if you have a lot of data synced and you don't want to individually pick out data to delete. Also, backups were taking a while, and I noticed that my Time Machine had nothing on it even though my Time Capsule showed as having almost 80 GB of data backed up. So, just to eliminate any potential problems, I zeroed out data and started over again.

  • Help Zeroing Out Data On eMac

    I'm trying to wipe out the hard drive on my folks' old eMac.  I'm going to recycle the computer but it is important that I at least zero out the data and not just erase it superficially. The disk that came with the mac is 10.1.4, so I gues it doesn't have a Zero data option when I try to start fromt the disk.  Sadly my old firewire cable is MIA and I'd rather not have to buy another one just for this. 
    Is there another way to zero the data? 
    More info:
    I can start up from the install disk that came with the machine (holding the C button while powering up) which gets you to an install page.  I've selected Disk Utility  from the menu bar and from there I can get to the "Erase" tab.  At this point  with later systems I guess you would select an HD and there will be an "Options" button that lets you choose "Zero All Data", etc.  But I can't find such an option on the older disk.
    The eMac was running 10.3 something after updates. However, at this point I have superficially erased the data, as I was hoping that clicking on "erase" would give me further options.  It didn't.  So i's not 10.3 anymore, and I have not yet entered any info for a new user on the computer. 
    I also have the 4 recovery disks that came with the eMac, if those matter. 
    Help appreciated,
    Max

    Well I bought the bullet and ordered a new 6 pin 9 pin firewire.  Which, with the internet, is actually not much of a bullet these days.  I don't imagine I'll use the cable for that many other things, but that's okay.  I had heard about the gibberish-file-copy method, but I think this'll be easier. Thanks tho. 

  • Is "Zero" Out Safe Enough?

    I need to erase the HD on my MacBook Core 2 Duo.
    I have sold it on Ebay and was wondering if the "zero out" option in Disk Utility is safe enough for when I pass my laptop on to it's new owner.
    Is it okay if I don't do the 7-time pass erase?
    I honestly don't have the time to wait hours...I have to get it packed up and shipped.
    What do you think? Will my hard drive be secure enough?
    Thanks!

    It all depends on how sensitive that data is. The chances of that data on a zeroed-out hard drive can be recovered are close to nil. But the chances are not actually nil.
    For a quick & dirty solution, ensure all your sensitive files are in your home folder. Then turn on FileVault. Choose the "secure erase" option when turning it on to ensure that the moved files are completely wiped out. Choose a very strong password; something like dUcr5Faw2uG2cubr.
    Them just do a quick erase and reformat, with no zeroing out. Reinstall the OS. The next owner might easily be able to recover parts of the System, Applications, etc., but your data will be completely gone.

  • Recommended # of "zero out" passes to securely erase hard drive?

    I'm selling some old hard drives. Apple's Disk Utility (OS X 10.4.8) provides the ability to "zero out" the data on a hard drive. Options include ability to run 1, 7 or 35 zero out passes. The 7 option will take a day per drive, and the 35, obviously, several days.
    Is 1 zero out pass good enough to securely wipe the data? Is running two consecutive 1 zero out passes twice as good as one pass?
    thanks!

    Depends on how paranoid you really are, how important it is that no data be recoverable, and who might attempt to recover data from the drive.
    In most common cases one pass should be sufficient. If you have extremely top secret NSA data on the drive that highly trained spies will attempt to discover and have access to the most sophisticated data recovery equipment, then go for 35 passes.
    Why reward points?(Quoted from Discussions Terms of Use.)
    The reward system helps to increase community participation. When a community member gives you (or another member) a reward for providing helpful advice or a solution to their question, your accumulated points will increase your status level within the community.
    Members may reward you with 5 points if they deem that your reply is helpful and 10 points if you post a solution to their issue. Likewise, when you mark a reply as Helpful or Solved in your own created topic, you will be awarding the respondent with the same point values.

  • How to know the size of bad sector block after zero out erase?

    I found some problems on my USB external harddisk recently. After I backup all the files, I erased the whole volume by choosing "zero out data" option. According to some web articles, "zero out" detects and marks those bad sectors to avoid further read/write action on the damaged area.
    My question is that how can I know the size of disk space marked as bad sector? Because I can only see how many space is used or available when I check a disk in disk utility. There are about 600MB used for my 1TB hard drive. I guess there is some storage used by spotlight or other hidden files. But I have no idea for how many MB is occupied by bad sector...

    Yes you can look at see the original number of spares, the number used, and the number remaining spares.
    Disk Warrior for one, writes the SMART data to system.log Other programs can also read and report (not sure which if any write to system.log though) those field values from SMART table entries.
    IF the number of spares is declining, time to replace. Trouble is OS X hasn't had a good record of reporting I/O errors, let alone remapping. Some 3rd party utilities will. I've found the vendor (WD, Hitachi etc) have the best utility for their own drives, but those are Windows programs or LinuxCD. Also the best way to zero and map out bad sectors, too.

  • Zero Out Hard Drive Question

    I have been using my 27" iMac for various software testing. Now that my testing is complete I want to wipe the drive and start fresh. In Disk Utility there are many options to choose from when going to Erase > Security Options. Is there any benefit to Zeroing out the drive before re-installing Snow Leopard? Or can I just select the Don't Erase Data option and reinstall deleting the home folder when prompted. Does Zeroing out free any more space up?

    Michael710 wrote:
    I have been using my 27" iMac for various software testing. Now that my testing is complete I want to wipe the drive and start fresh. In Disk Utility there are many options to choose from when going to Erase > Security Options. Is there any benefit to Zeroing out the drive before re-installing Snow Leopard?
    no, there is no benefit to this at all. zeroing out is only needed to prevent data recovery. it serves no other function. apparently, it doesn't even map out bad blocks on the hard drive.
    Or can I just select the Don't Erase Data option and reinstall deleting the home folder when prompted.
    "don't erase data"?? there is no such option in disk utility. just erase the drive using the erase tab. this will erase everything on your hard drive. or better yet, reformat the drive using the partition tab. then quit disk utility and proceed with the install.
    Message was edited by: V.K.

  • Zero Out All Data and GUID

    I'm just formatting a second hard drive for backup purposes. I've decided I want to zero out all data to ensure that the drive maps out bad blocks, and then I'm going to create a GUID partition just in case I decide to make it a boot drive in future.
    Three questions:
    Why doesn't Disk Utility give you the option of Zero Out All Data and GUID partition as a 'one stop shop'?
    Is there any disadvantage to having a GUID partition on a backup drive?
    Are any remapped bad blocks found during the zeroing process retained after the GUID partition erase?

    Zeroing and GUID don't always go together. AIUI, GUID is only compulsory for a boot partition for Intel Macs; and it is recommended for volumes used by Time Machine. Otherwise, Apple Partition Map will usually be required since it can be read by both Intel and PowerPC Macs.
    The disadvantage to having a GUID partition is that it won't be readable by PowerPC Macs.
    Simon

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