1.5 GHZ vs. 1.67 LCD screen

Do the 1.5 ghz and the 1.67 ghz (low res) use the same LCD screen?

Hi, Applee. The last 1.67GHz 15" PBG4 is the only Aluminum model with a native resolution other than 1280 x 854; all the other Aluminum 15" models share that resolution. If you're wondering whether the LCD panels or complete display assemblies can be interchanged among different models, that question is best addressed to any of the following parts vendors, who will probably have an authoritative answer for you:
http://www.pbparts.com (parts and repair work)
http://www.dttservice.com (parts and repair work)
http://www.powerbookresq.com (parts and repair work)
http://www.tekserve.com (parts and repair work)
http://www.welovemacs.com (parts and used equipment)
http://www.ifixit.com (parts and excellent, illustrated online take-apart instructions)

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Late 2006, 24" iMac, 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, Screen Tearing, nVidia 7300

Late 2006, 24" iMac, 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, Screen Tearing, nVidia GeForce 7300 GT
I've been suffering with screen tearing, strange screen artifacts, etc. followed by totally unresponsive freezing machine. This problem has been happening to varying degrees for about 9 months.
Initially, I was able to mitigate the problem with smcFanControl. Adjusting the fan speeds up helped keep the machine cool and prevent most of the problems. Recently, we had a spell of hot weather and the fans just couldn't keep up. If you're using smcFanControl, the only fan speed that will really make a difference is the CPU. The HDD and ODD fans are no where near where you need to be.
Also, I noticed the machine was LOADED with dust when I took it apart, including the heat sink fins for the graphics card. If you have time you may want to try a thorough cleaning with compressed air before replacing the card. You just need to get through step 11 below to access what needs to be cleaned.
Based on reading here and elsewhere, I decided to replace the graphics card. To give back to the community, I wanted to layout the procedure here.
Where to buy the card.
I had a tough time finding the right card. I did exhaustive web searches using every combination of Nvidia 7300 GT, etc. You really need to search by the Apple part number. The Apple part number for the 7300 is 661-4179, for the 7600 is 661-4180. I found it at We Love Macs and at dv warehouse. I paid $248 for the 7600 card. BE CAREFUL buying a "refurbished" card. At We Love Macs, "refurbished" means "pulled from a working machine." Could be a machine with as much mileage as yours and prone to the same failures as yours.
The card is an MXM style card (generally used in laptops), with a giant heat sink and heat pipe assembly. The card can be separated from the heat assembly. If I had time, I would have tried a generic, cheaper, MXM style card.
Dispelling some myths.
People here and elsewhere have said that no Intel iMac graphics card can be replaced, that they're wedded to the logic board. The one on this model can be replaced, I've done it. Also, some have said you can't put a 256MB, 7600 GT in a machine that originally had a 128MB, 7300 GT. Also, not true. That's what I did to my machine and it is working fine.
So here's the step-by-step on my take apart and replacement. This is just one user helping out others, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. This takes about 1 1/2 hours to take apart and 2 to put back together.
1) Install the iStat widget and monitor the temperatures for a few days and record the temperatures (to be able to verify that you've completed the repair correctly later)
2) Make a complete backup of any internal drives and make sure the backup will be bootable (use Carbon Copy Cloner)
3) Use static safeguards, like an anti-static wrist strap.
4) Get a pen a stack of paper envelopes to separate and label the pieces you remove.
5) You'll need a #2 Phillips and #6, 8, 10 Torx. Most of the screws at T-8. There are 8 T-8s holding in the LCD. They are about 1 1/4" down. You'll need a long, skinny T-8 to get to them.
6) Unplug the machine and place it on it's back on a large white sheet of paper.
7) Remove RAM door, #2 Phillips x 2.
8) Remove RAM.
9) Remove 4 T-8s along bottom.
10) Remove large rectangular plastic bezel surrounding the whole machine, tilt up being careful not to stress iSight cables. You'll need to stretch it around the RAM ejection tabs.
11) Detach two iSight cables.
12) Peel up black stickers at lower corners of speakers.
13) Remove LCD screws, T-8 x 8. You'll probably drop a few, they're pretty easy to retrieve.
14) Remove two retaining screws on right hand LCD cable. T-6 x2 Unplug cable.
15) Remove LCD inverter cable, left.
Start unplugging everything connected to the logic board.
16) Unplug cable coming from right speaker. Note cable routing, it is the only one that's a little tricky. Also, note that the left one plugs in on the right and the right one plugs in on the left.
17) Remove right speaker. T-10 Note: left and right speaker screws are different lengths.
18) Unplug ODD blower cable.
19) Unplug ODD temp cable and lift up tape.
20) Unplug HDD blower cable.
21) Unplug the HDD temp cable.
22) Unplug the camera & mic cable.
23) Unscrew the clamp securing the airport card (has two antenna cables going to it, labeled PCIE), T-6 x 2
24) Unplug SATA cable.
25) Unplug Power cable, thick black plastic harness, socket.
26) Unplug ambient temp cable.
27) Unscrew the bluetooth card, T-6 x2.
28) Unplug CPU blower cable.
29) Unplug power button cable, 2 conductor, tiny cable, bottom left.
30) Unscrew left speaker, T-10, unplug from logic board, but just leave dangling, no need to remove cable completely.
31) Remove logic board screws. Be careful to segregate them, they have different lengths and different thread pitches and thread types. Some are machine threads going into metal, some are coarse threads going into plastic.
31a) Heat sink frame to case T-8 x 2
31b) Logic board to case T-8 x 3
31c) Screws at heat sink from arrows T-8 x 3
31d) Logic board at bottom near RAM slot T-8 x 2
32) Unplug ODD ribbon cable, be extremely careful. Release plastic tabs on each side to remove. Be sure it is fully and evenly seated when you put it back later.
33) Remove logic board with attached graphics card.
34) Unplug graphics card heat sink sensor cable at logic board end.
35) Remove graphics card screws 2 x T-6
36) Remove single screw from small L-bracket on heat sink 1 x T-6
Replace graphics card.
Reverse steps, put everything back together. Be careful not to pinch any cables when you put the logic board back in. When you put the LCD back in, if you can't get the screws to stick to the driver, use some glue stick from your kid's art supplies.
Test everything. You've disconnected every cable in the system.
I torture tested the machine with a space heater on it, 5 different videos of different formats playing at the same time. No problems.
I took a lot of pictures inside the machine. As soon as I figure out a good place to post them, I'll try to add a link here.
Good luck

Greetings!
I know this is in response to your post from over 2 years ago, but I was searching on Apple's site for the max RAM I can upgrade our refurbed iMac too and it brought up this post.
Oddly enough, I've been experiencing the same screen issues and locking up on our iMac as well. I was concerned it was a bad memory module, but now I'm thinking it's the same issue you found.
Because I bought this some 2+ years ago refurbed from Apple, I'm not surprised that could be the actual problem.
I've pulled this thing apart once to replace the hard-drive which crashed about a year ago, so I'm not totally new at opening it up, but this process you mention sounds pretty intense...just wanted to get your second take on it based on what I've done thus far.
Thanks again for posting this...it was an eye-opener as to what might actually be causing our issues with our trusted Mac!
Joshua

Compatible LCD screen?

Hi everyone,
I have a MacBook Pro 2.5Ghz (model number A-1260) the screen had started having problems, and I am looking to replace it.
I found one computer, another MBP but 2.16 Ghz (but model number A-1211).
The obvious difference between the two is that mine is LED backlit and the other one is CFL backlit, other difference is the different resolution, the 1211 has lower res.
I would like to know is are the screens compatible?
I will really really appreciate any help.
Best,

As you need information regarding availability and compatibility of LCD screen that you need to purchase, please contact the lenovo pre-sales department and there the available representative will assist you .
Regards,
Sameer
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My LCD screen burned out. I have it connected to a tv now, but can't get the menu bar or the function bars to show up. Please help!

My LCD Screen burned out, but the computer still works. I currently have it connected to an HDTV via, Mini DVI to VGA, VGA to VGA on the tv. Problem is, I can't get the function bar (maybe not the right term) or the bar at the bottom with all my programs on it. I get my screen saver and have managed to drag (by sheer luck since I can't see anything on my iMac screen) some of my pics I had on my desktop over, but nothing else. Please help!

Hello
you should have on your key board "mirroring key" , or F7 on old keyboard
for now your tv is an extended screen for your imac not a miror , so you can not see menue barre on top of screen
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.5/en/8525.html
HOPE you are in 10.6
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.6/en/8525.html
"On some keyboards, you can press the F7 key, or Command-F1, as a shortcut to turn video mirroring on or off."
HTH
Pierre

How can I put Desktop 1 to my macbook and Desktop 2 on LCD screen?

Hello. I have a problem. I would like to use some of my programs on Desktop 1, and other on my Desktop 2 for example not just to put browser to LCD screen. Is that possile or am I asking for too much?
Thank's. [I'm new to apple world]

What kind of DVD? Is this a commercial/copyright protected DVD? If so, since doing so is illegal in the US, such cannot be discussed here.

How can you tell if you need to just replace the glass on an ipod 4g or the glass and the LCD screen?

i just broke my ipod touch 4g about a month ago and i think it is just the glass but i am not sure. It cracked and the glass started falling out of the top right corner and today, the white part started cracking. is this just part of the glass or is it part of the LCD screen? I want to figure this out because i dont want to order a repair kit with an LCD screen if i dont have to. thanks in advanced

On the 4G the outer glass and the LCD screen is one bonded unit.
iPod Touch Repair – iFixit

How do i connect an ipod lcd screen to a zen visio

My zen vision m lcd screen recently cracked and after getting the full run around and reading up on the net, I bought a 2.5" lcd ipod replacement screen for $0 off of ebay. I really don't watch much movies so the quality doesn't really matter as long as I can see my music and audiobooks. So here is the problem:
They both have 32 pin connectors that attach to the 32 contact ribbon connector, but the ipod ribbon is about half the size of the zen's.
I would like to connect the new screen and have a couple of options.
. connect the ipod screen ribbon to the zen's ribbon, then connect to the player.
2. somehow solder the ipod connector to the motherboard directly
3. solder the ipod connector to the casing on the motherboard
Problems:
. I don't even know if the connectors go to the same places, therefore don't know if it will work even if I do figure out how to do so.
2. I have no idea how to go about soldering ribbon connectors because the wires are so close together.
3. Any solder job that I could do would probably preclude me from putting everything back into the player.
If anybody has any ideas (other than buy a new one or pay the ridiculous $20 to fix it) your help is much appreciated and will probably help a whole mess of people.
Thanks in advance.

Took me 5 minutes to find this on google:http://www.portatronics.com/index.ph...3ceada0db84ed4?Parts for your Creative Zen Vision M:? Screens & hard dri'ves

Lenovo U310 LCD Screen Backlight Won't Turn On.

I purchased a new U310 near the end of August this year, using it primarily to bring with me to school. However, I've been having a problem with the LCD screen backlight. Typically, when the computer starts up, the backlight will be working fine. However, once the computer goes into powersave mode and shuts the display off, often the backlight to the display will not turn on again regardless of if I press keys or the touchpad. These are some things I've noticed:
The display IS still on. I can still very faintly make out the desktop and use the system, but the backlight is off completely
This issue does not happen all of the time, but is still quite frequent
Sometimes putting the computer to sleep and then waking it solves the problem, but not all of the time
Sometimes the backlight remains off even after a forced power off (holding down the power button), but typically a restart solves the problem and enables the backlight again
Adjusting screen brightness has no effect
This happens regardless of the battery level and whether or not the system is plugged in
Although this issue has seemed more prevalent recently, it even happened on the day I bought the laptop, but I just wasn't yet aware it was a reoccurring issue
I've been able to recreate this issue, in fact I was just able to make it happen twice in a row. First time the display went off and didn't turn back on, I restarted. This even repeated the next time the display went into powersave mode, so I restarted again. The third time the display went into powersave mode, I was able to turn it on again simply by touching the touchpad (as it should be).
I think that about sums up what I know. I apologize for making such a long post, but I'm thinking I can't be the only one with this issue. I'm new to the community and couldn't find a similar post anywhere on the forums. Since I infrequently use this system, and the issue has been there since I got it, I'm assuming it must be a driver problem. If anyone has any insight or is experiencing similar problems, I'd be glad to hear! I thought I'd post before contacting Lenovo directly. Thanks!

I suggest you please uninstall the energy management software, reebot and install it again. You will find the setup of energy management in drivers folder in the drive named lenovo ( maybe E or D). Please give it a shot and post results.
Ishaan Ideapad Y560(i3 330m), Hp Elitebook 8460p!(i5-2520M) Hp Pavilion n208tx(i5-4200u)
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IPod Nano LCD screen cracking/scratching

i am a possible, going to be nano buyer and i was wondering if anyone who is a owner has had problems with the screen cracking and/or scratching. Also this is a question for owners with the problem and APPLE if the screen gets cracked or overally scratched withing warranty will apple replace it with a new one? also for people in singapore is there anywhere that i can get a 4GB nano, as most places have said they dont have them. thank you
Windows XP

The screen scratching issue is really going to depend on just how badly you treat the device. I don't know how the screens are getting so badly scratched, and in normal use I can't see anything other than normal wear and tear. My 3G iPod is the same - a few scuffs and scratches, but nothing to stop it working.
If on the other hand you place the nano into your pocket without a protective case, keep change and car keys in the same pocket, then yes, it WILL get scratched. If you drop it or drag it over rough surfaces, if you take a sharp implement to it, if you use abrasive cleaners on it... and probably loads of other 'ifs', you'll get scratches on it.
They are not indestructible and the LCD screen is not harder than diamond. Take care of your Nano and you should be fine.
Taking it back with scratches through normal wear and tear, or through poor care, will not get you a replacement. You would have to show that it was an actual fault with the Nano itself, and I get the distinct feeling most are fine
As for purchasing a 4GB model, have you tried the online Apple store?

LENOVO G550 DC-T4500 Tragedy, Internal crack on LCD screen

Well i am new to this forum and when i was looking for ‘Lenovo customer service’ on Google, i realised that there are many people in the same boat as me.
Well i never imagined this to happen to me, but the fact is it has happened. I purchased a new ‘LENOVO G550 DC-T4500’ which is a new laptop by Lenovo at a very low price. Well i had a low budget and was thinking of getting a small netbook, but then I saw this Lenovo ad at center.com and went and purchased it from them on 11th November 2010. I got the laptop in my office and kept it there for a week. Finally after 7 days i took it home. I did not use it instantly because I had to setup many things like Microsoft office etc and just didn’t get the time to do that. Finally after 7 days I opened it up and installed Microsoft office. I used it for like 2 hours. The next day i opened the laptop and then was trying to set the internet, and after an hour the laptop screen went blank. I did not use it even for 4 complete hours. I gave it back to center.com and they asked me whether i dropped it. Well the fact is i never dropped it. It was used just like for four hours in total. I don’t have kids or pets in my house. I stay with my husband and we both are old enough to handle laptops. Well this crack was not an external crack on the screen but an internal crack on the LCD screen. Now isn’t that weird that there is no crack on the laptop but a cack developed on the LCD screen and they say that it has been dropped. Now i don’t know how to prove that i did not drop the laptop, but the real truth is that i never did anything to the laptop for it to develop that internal crack. When i returned it back to center.com i returned it with complete packing because all this time when the laptop was with me it was packed and i opened it up after 7 days and used it for 4 just hours in total.
Center.com told us that Lenovo has rejected the warranty in this case and gave me a number for lenovo’s customer service department. I called up lenovo’s customer service department for like 4 days. Each time a different person answered the phone and gave me different answers. Some said we are looking into it. Finally they made me go crazy then finally one person called and said the same thing, he is looking into the case. After few days he sent an email and said that they can’t help and the crack cannot develop on its own and if I have to get it repaired I have to pay like almost the same amount as that of the laptop. This is ridiculous, absolutely disappointing.
Well even if Lenovo does not help me i would like to tell all those people who are reading this, buying a laptop from Lenovo and then going through all the pain for no mistake of yours is the worst thing that can ever happen to a customer. And no matter how big this company is, but the fact is that they are not worth it. I pray this does not happen to anyone else. I felt cheated and hurt. I will never ever recommend anyone to buy a laptop from Lenovo.

first let me say that I am in know way implying that you broke your screen but you can crack the LCD screen without causing damage to the case you can set something on it and cause a pressure crack pressure from your fingers can crack it as for internal external it appears to be internal because the clear plastic on the outside does not crack like glass there had to be some kind of force to crack the screen they just don't brake they go out from time to time as in no video but not crack
Thinkpad R61 7733-1GU
Thinkpad X61T 7762-54U
Thinkpad X60T 6363-4GU
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I turn on my a1300 camera then suddenly its lcd screen turns green..why?

i turn on my a1300 camera then suddenly its lcd screen turns green.. icons on the screen is in color green and its larger than the usual size of the icon...

Hi, sounds like Graphic card or VRAM issue. Does it get better once warmed up?
One way to test is to Safe Boot from the HD, (holding Shift key down at bootup), run Disk Utility in Applications>Utilities, then highlight your drive, click on Repair Permissions, Test for problem in Safe Mode...
PS. Safe boot may stay on the gray radian for a long time, let it go, it's trying to repair the Hard Drive
Reboot, test again.
If it only does it in Regular Boot, then it could be some hardware problem like Video card, (Quartz is turned off in Safe Mode).

MBP suddenly not talking to projector or LCD screen.

After using my MBP 15" at the same venue as before it suddenyl would not talk to the projector (or the other way round), either via TB port or HDMI. It now won't hook up to my LCD screen either. It looks as though the display settings on the MBP are screwed up. I have found a fix online by resetting PRAM (by pressing Option + Command + P +R at start up) but this has only actually worked once. I am currently unable to do presentations and unable to use a desktop LCD. The sleep mode of the MBP also seems to be affected and it often won't wake up. Any solutions or similar issues out there please?

After using my MBP 15" at the same venue as before it suddenyl would not talk to the projector (or the other way round), either via TB port or HDMI. It now won't hook up to my LCD screen either. It looks as though the display settings on the MBP are screwed up. I have found a fix online by resetting PRAM (by pressing Option + Command + P +R at start up) but this has only actually worked once. I am currently unable to do presentations and unable to use a desktop LCD. The sleep mode of the MBP also seems to be affected and it often won't wake up. Any solutions or similar issues out there please?

Is there a way I can tell if I have glossy or non-glossy LCD screen?

Hi,
I bought my MacBook Pro about a year ago and I don't remember if I have a glossy or non-glossy LCD screen. Some people say you can look at it and tell, but I don't know what I am looking for. My invoice doesn't say.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.

I'm not aware of anything in the Hardware Profiler that will tell you which display you have. If you can see reflections on the screen (they are particularly visible if the display is showing something dark and there's something light behind you) then the screen is glossy. A matte display is like frosted glass so it won't show any clear reflections on it.

Can be possibile that a Philips LCD screen doesn't work correctly with Mac?

I've buy a LCD Screen 17" Philips SXGA 170S7FB/00.
The first time i've connect it on my Mac Mini and it worked,but the second time when i try to startup the Mac,on the screen appair only a white page with in the middle a folder signed with a flashing question mark.
Can be possibile that the monitor make creates problems or conflit with Operative System?
Alskarez
Mac Mini Mac OS X (10.4)

If a display isn't compatible with the system, generally what you would see is that the display would go blank or distorted, but the system still work. It is not likely that the monitor has caused this problem, and the fact you can see a white screen with the flashing question mark shows that the screen and mini are able to talk to each other.
The flashing question mark indicates that the mini cannot find a copy of MacOS to boot from. I see you've asked about this issue in the 'Using the Mac mini' area, which is where I think you'll be most likely to get some assistance trying to get your system running again.

My screen has turned black as if the LCD screen isn't working. There is no damage and the phone is still responding to vibrations and there is a dial tone when called. What is wrong with my phone?

My screen has turned black as if the LCD screen isn't working. I have tried using the lockbutton and home button to turn it on, but it doesn't work. What should I do?

Your phone is probably broken.

1.5 GHZ vs. 1.67 LCD screen

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