11" Macbook Air vs. 13" Macbook Pro

I am trying to deside between the 11" Macbook Air and the 13" Macbook Pro. I am a high school student who will mostly be using the computer for surfing the web, research, and projects using Microsoft Word. I love the sleek designs of both devices. However, I am torn between the less expensive and light weight 11" Macbook Air, and the 13" Macbook Pro which is faster and has a longer battery life. I have had PCs for my past computers and don't have much experience with Macs, so I am unsure which device will be more sutable for me.

Similar Messages

Officejet Pro 8600 - Macbook Pro and Macbook Air will not print

Products:
HP Officejet Pro 8600
Macbook Pro (Mac OS X, Version 10.7.5)
Macbook Air (OS X, Version 10.8.2)
Question:
Why did my Macs initially print fine, but now will not print at all?
Full Story:
I have a wireless network at my house that consisted of a 30mb cable internet, Netgear 900n, HP Officejet Pro 8600, 2 Dell Laptops with Windows 7, a Lenovo Laptop with Windows 7, and Dell Tower with Windows 7 - All printed just fine.
The HP Officejet 8600 was added to my network about 2 months ago.
I added a Macbook Pro and a Macbook Air about 3 weeks ago. Both Macs printed just fine for about a week. Then suddenly they stopped. I spent about 2 hours on the phone with HP Service, and they finally said it must be my router. So I called Netgear. Netgear was useless! They wanted me to agree to charges for services before they would even discuss the issue.
Due to information provided by HP's service support, and because Netgear will not support their product, I promptly purchased a new router - an Apple Airport Extreme.
The Macs recognize the printer, will print if hardwired via a USB cable, but will not print wirelessly to the Officejet Pro 8600. The PCs print fine.
The frustration that is being felt is compound by the fact that the Macs printed just fine with the Officejet Pro 8600 2 weeks ago, and now the printer just shows "idle"... even with a new router. (see image below)
Please help, I appreciate any support.
As a side note, the HP Service rep was very friendly, and definitely tried to support the HP Product, which is much more than I can say about Netgear.
Thank you,
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Hi,
More likely the issue related with Multicast, which Apple devices relies on to communicate with teh device through the network.
First try unplugging the router for 30 seconds.
Plug it back to the power and wait for 2-3 minutes.
Turn the HP printer Off and back On, then check for any difference.
If the same persists, try changing your router configuration as following
Note: the settings below are not related with the HP product, I provide you the steps as a best effor and those are only based on my own knowledge. you may try modifying the router settings at your own risk:
Open the router configuration page (can be found listed as the Default Gateway by clicking the Wireless icon on the printer, then print a network configuration report.
Click the Advanced tab.
Click the Setup option from the menu, then click on WAN Setup.
Make sure to uncheck the box next to Disable IGMP Proxying and Apply the changes.
Click the LAN Setup on the same Setup menu.
Set the RIP Version as RIP-2 and Apply the changes.
Reboot your router and then check for any change.
I hope you may find that information useful, you may also use the user guide below for further information:
http://www.downloads.netgear.com/files/GDC/WNDR4500/WNDR4500_UM_07DEC2011.pdf
Shlomi
Say thanks by clicking the Kudos thumb up in the post.
If my post resolve your problem please mark it as an Accepted Solution

Attn: ALL APPLE PORTABLE OWNERS -Macbook Pro, MacBook Air Apple portable slowdown / kernel high CPU solution

Attn: ALL APPLE PORTABLE OWNERS -MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, Mac mini slowdown kernel / high CPU use problem and solution.
YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER IF YOU DO NOT FIX THIS PROBLEM SO PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MESSAGE!
YOUR MAC WILL THANK YOU
Hey all.
Like many of you I've got a newer Apple portable which slows down to an unusable level for an unknown reason. In my case a 13" mid 2009 Intel MacBook Pro Core 2 duo laptop. After many failed attempts to figure out what this nutty problem is I have discovered the problem, the solution and I have solved this for my own MacBook Pro. Since this fix it has been working immediately and consistently -without issue
I am sharing this with you in hopes that you to can fix your Apple portable yourself or so you know what to tell the Apple techs so they can quickly fix your Mac from this wacky and unfortunate kernel CPU hogging problem.
User Software Symptoms :
Your Apple portable computer periodically for an unknown reason slows down making everything frustratingly slow. This happens even when running previous apps that were never a problem; things that your Mac should be able to handle easily but for some reason now it can't.
Slowdown most often happens during high CPU use such as gaming, video playback/editing, etc. or when running multiple apps (even non CPU intensive apps) at the same time.
Possible Hardware Symptoms:
Your computer is making more noise than it did previously.
Your computer occasionally makes more noise but then gets quieter.
Your computer is always extremely quiet (too quiet) even during high CPU apps -worst case scenario.
It feels hotter than it normally does. Test: After several minutes of the slowness/high kernel CPU touch the computer to feel if it's hotter than normal.
Looking at Activity Monitor (in the Utilities folder) shows the kernel_task is going bonkers eating up CPU but you have no idea why.
After trying many different things to solve this problem such as :
PR ram reset, SMC reset, fresh OS install of 10.5 and 10.6 on external hard-drives, calling and speaking to various Apple tech people who had no ideas/solutions, etc. I had no luck.
Btw, if you're having the symptoms I've decscribed above I would not run the Apple Hardware check (read below as to why). You could fry your Mac!
After much testing I found the problem :
It is my belief that "recent" Apple portable computers are using low quality internal fans which soon stop working!
Fail time period seems to be about 1.0 years to 2.5 years of use but this fail rate could vary depending on use.
First noticeable symptoms (depending on what you notice) could be computer slowdown or your fan is making more noise than it normally does. This is your fan's lubrication slowly eroding making your fan spin slower and less smooth resulting in the louder noise and slower rpm spin speed. The slower fan spin speed means less cooling is happening for your computer. The effect on your computer is that the CPU and other chips are heating up! Overheating to be more specific. When your computer's chips overheat they get wonky and screw things up. Most often this seems to have the effect of making the kernel hog CPU resulting in a frustratingly slow user experience! Heat kills computer chips and it is extremely bad for them. Extreme overheat or repeated overheating has been said to shorten the life of computer chips or in extreme cases even fry them completely!
The longer this goes on without being fixed your fan loses more lubrication and spins slower and slower cooling lesser and lesser resulting in your CPU heating up more and more possibly shortening the life of your Mac! Eventually your fan will stop completely and you could fry your chips! My fan stopped completely and my MBP was running very quietly, too quietly. Luckily I did not fry my chips because I was avoiding using high CPU apps because I knew something was wrong due to the massive slow down and wonkiness when I'd run them.
Side Note:I'm a bit concerned about all those Mac mini servers which may be using the same defective low quality fans which cannot be easily serviced by their owners as they are co-located in some server facility. One positive thing is those facilities are usually well airconditioned keeping temps low.
I suggest you do not run the Apple hardware test if you suspect your computer is overheating because the hardware test can seriously heat up your Mac! I tried running this test and my Mac got so hot I had to shut it down forcefully and I was concerned I damaged the chips. If you want to run the Apple hardware check make sure your CPU temperature is ok and that your fan works well before you run the test.
IF YOU DON'T FIX THIS PROBLEM YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER DUE TO HEAT DAMAGE!
DO NOT IGNORE THIS PROBLEM YOUR MACS LIFE MAY DEPEND ON IT!
First you need to properly diagnose this problem and see if your CPU is getting to hot and you need to see if your fans are spinning at high rpms giving proper cooling, or if they are spinning at low rpms when running high intensive apps as your CPU temp increases.
TEST IF YOUR FAN(s) IS WORKING CORRECTLY :
Unfortunately Apple does not include CPU temperature reading software nor fan rpm speed software that I am aware of.
However, There are two free ways that I know of to check your CPU tempurature and your fan speed :
One app shows fan speed, and CPU heat, etc.
One app shows fan speed, CPU heat and allows you to adjust your fan speed settings.
One app is a dashboard widget, the other is a system preference.
I suggest you download both of these to check your computer statistics.
http://www.eidac.de/?p=134
http://www.islayer.com/apps/istatpro/
http://fan-control.en.softonic.com/mac
I am not exactly sure what proper CPU temperatures are for the different Apple computers and this will change given different CPU loads.
My MBP doesn't seem to function properly with anything around 90 degrees or higher (celcius).
It seems when the fan is operating normally the CPU temp should not stay above 78 degrees even under heavy load, at least with the apps I'm running in the room temperature I'm in.
I can post back later with more specific temps under longer load, etc. but I wanted to get this post up for people to read as soon as possible so they don't fry their Macs.
If a bad fan is your problem :
THERE ARE ONLY TWO SOLUTIONS FOR THIS PROBLEM :
Fix or replace your fan so it cools the CPU and other chips properly.
I fixed my fan myself and I didn't need to buy a new one. Total cost was about $8.00 because I had to buy a #00 sized screwdriver and had it shipped to me. Price includes shipping.
On my mid 2009 model MacBook Pro fixing the fan was incredibly easy :
Before I started doing this I wasn't 100% this was the problem so I decided to try to fix my fan instead of ordering a new one and replacing it. As it turns out I didn't need a new fan, I only needed to clean the existing fan and relube it's axl so it could spin easier like when it was new. It also didn't make sense to buy a brand new fan from an Apple authorized parts reseller selling me the same low quality fan for $49.00 which would probably fail in 2 years again. Prices for new comparable fans from different manufactures range from about $15.00 USD + shipping to around $49.00 USD + shipping depending on where you order them from and what brand you get.
How to fix / replace your internal fan on a mid 2009 MacBook Pro :
Please note : I am not a hardware technician, nor expert. If you decide to fix your Mac yourself you do so at your own risk through no fault of my own. Prior to opening up your Mac you should google around and learn how to do it correctly and safely so you won't damage your Mac. For example, it is possible for you to damage your Mac by static electricity from your body. To avoid this I believe proper procedure is that you wear a 'ground strap' (around your wrist) which you clip to your Mac's metal body so your body will not excude a charge into your Mac. I believe the idea here is to keep your body's charge level and your Mac's similar. Since I do not have a ground strap and fixing/replacing the fan doesn't require touching any chips I did not wear a ground strap during my fan fix. What I did was periodically repeatedly touch the metal case of my MBP hoping that would be enough and it was. Avoid unecessary actions that can build up a static charge in you. Once I started the repair I did not walk around the room building up an electrical charge in my body. Walking on carpet can often build up a large charge in us so it is better to be avoided while working on your Mac. Certain clothing can build up static charges. Combing hair, etc. If you need to get up from your repair when you come back make sure you first touch the Mac's metal case and not anything inside.
Now that we're done with the scary paranoia, below you will find some instructions on how I fixed my MBP's internal fan
Before you begin:
Check out someone's video (not mine) on how to remove / replace the fan (but not take it apart and repair it):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AghE9newvbs
Check out someone's web page (not mine) on how to replace the fan in a mid 2009 MacBook Pro:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-MacBook-Pro-13-Inch-Unibody-Mid-2009-Fan/ 1338/1
How to repair your mid 2009 MacBook Pro fan:
Make sure you are in a 'secure' environment. No pets, no kids running around, no drinks near the Mac, etc.
Make sure your computer is unplugged from it's power supply and turned off. NOT slept. Totally off / powered down.
1. Get a size #00 phillips screwdriver (Hobby store, Radioshack, Amazon).
2. Open up your MBP by unscrewing the bottom (yes flip it over so it's resting upsidedown). Note where each screw goes because some are different lengths. I placed each one around my MBP where they go, insuring I know their order (don't jumble them up). Note which direction your MBP is facing when it's upside down so if you spin it around while working on it you still know where the screws go.
2b. Some recommend removing the MBP's battery but I didn't do this step. You probably should, just to be safe. Follow the online instructions from the web page I listed about disconnecting the battery.
3. Unscrew the fan's 3 holding screws.
4. Unplug the fan's electrical connection (lift it straight up off the board). If you need to you can try to pry it up while you lift with a non metal/non electrical conductive object like a spudger if you have one or -perhaps a pen cap. Before you remove it, look closely at how it's attached so when you put it back on you won't wonder if you're doing it correctly. There's only one way it can go because it cannot fit 'the wrong way' but looking at it closely will make you feel more confident popping it back on when the time comes.
5. Remove the fan - it easily lifts out.
6. Take the fan apart by unscrewing it's one screw then unlatching the plastic clips which hold it together.
7. Seperate the fan blades from the housing. Lift the fan blades off of the fan housing by pulling it straight out away from the housing.
8. Clean off the dust that's gathered. A can of compressed air helps here (I didn't have one). I used a little brush from my electric shaver kit which worked well. Once you've removed all the dust from the fan and surrounding areas proceed to the next step.
9. Reapply new lubrication. You need less than 1 drop. Be sure it covers the entire fan blade axl as this is what needs to be well lubricated. Make sure there isn't excess oil that will fly around when the axl/fan spins at high rpms. I used the only oil I had which was olive oil (for cooking!) but I do not suggest this. At the time I was doing this I didn't know my fan was the problem so I wasn't even sure I was going to relube it. You should probably use something more appropriate perhaps like 3 in 1 oil. A good idea would be to call the manufatures of these little fans and ask them. Maybe a hobby store knows of good lubricants for these purposes?
DO NOT use things like WD 40 as it's not a long term lubricant or so I've read.
10. Once your fan is now clean and oiled (make sure there isn't too much oil) reassmble the fan.
Push the fan blades/axl back into the housing shaft. Give it a few spins with your finger.
Screw together the fan housing then reclip the clips.
11. Place the now reassembled fan back into your Mac and screw it in place (3 screws).
12. Reattach the fan's electrical wiring by gently pushing it into place. Make sure you've got the right end facing down before you push it in place.
13. Once your Mac's internals are clean and reassembled, place the rear cover back on your Mac and screw it in place.
14. Double check you didn't forget anything like screws, tools, etc.
15. Boot up your Mac and monitor the temperature and fan speed using those programs.
Compare the previous temps/fan speed to the current temp/fan speed.
Run a high CPU intensive app where your computer has been slowing down.
You should now have a happy Mac
If you have this problem and this solution fixed it for you please post in this thread letting me and everyone else know!
Hope that helps.

Thanks for your lengthy reminder dude, I have a similar Mac with yours. I suspect its a software fault because it happens after I upgraded to Lion, 10.7.2.

I am a Communications student with my major in journalism and Broadcasting. Should i get a MacBook Air or a MacBook Pro?

I am a university student and I currently use a Windows computer but I think it's time for a Mac upgrade. I'll be using it for writing lots of word documents and powerpoints, LOTS of web surfing espescially with many tabs and watching shows from my external hardrive. I'll be using some Adobe programs like Dreamweaver, Photoshop or Flash. I'll need to install the Windows OS into the laptop as well for my work. I'm also a light gamer. Mostly for the Dragon Age but that's not important. Portability, convenience and battery life is very important. I would hate to carry around a heavy laptop everyday.
I'm aiming for the either the 256GB, 13inch MacBook Air or the 13inch MacBook Pro. I'm not sure if I need such a high peformance laptop like the Pro but i'm also unsure if the Air is up for the job. The only reason why im hesitant to get the Pro is because it's very expensive and it's too heavy, Which one do you think i should get?

Macbook Pro 13-inch will do fine.
If you prefer a lightweight computer, Macbook Air 13-inch is the right choice
Consider 8-16GB RAM and 256 GB SSD.
Best.

Can i clone my macbook air HDD into an SSD and then install that on a macbook pro??

i Have a macbook air 2013 with mavericks and my brother has a 2012 macbook pro with yosemite, i want to keep mavericks, can i clone my air's HDD into an SSD and install that SSD into the pro??

Yes, although your MBA does not have an HDD. It has an SSD. Just put the new SSD into a dock or enclosure, clone your drive to it, then install the new SSD into the MBP.
Clone Yosemite, Mavericks, Lion/Mountain Lion using Restore Option of Disk Utility
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
     1. Select Disk Utility from the main menu then press the Continue
         button.
     2. Select the destination volume from the left side list.
     3. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
     4. Select the destination volume from the left side list and drag it
         to the Destination entry field.
     5. Select the source volume from the left side list and drag it to
         the Source entry field.
     6. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
Destination means the external SSD. Source means the internal startup drive.

Can I exchange my macbook air for the new pro?

I recently bought a haswell series 13" macbook air exactly 1 week before the introduction of the new haswell macbook pros. After considering the spec and price difference I realized I'd rather have the pro. I looked on the returns tab on the website. It said I can return my product within 14 days. Is it possible for me to exchange my air for the pro without having to go through returning my macbook air and buying the pro? I realized the price difference wasn't all that differernt and I wouldn't mind the extra power. I currently have the 13" macbook air i5 with 8gb. I plan on getting the 8gb for the 13" retina display macbook pro as well

I strongly doubt it. The best thing for you to do is to return this one before the 14 days expire. If the time passes you will have to keep the Air and try to sell it privately.
Once Apple accepts the Air back and you know you are getting a refund you can start the order process for the Pro.
regards

Can mid 2011 macbook air use early 2011 macbook pro's RAM?

I just upgraded my macbook pro's ram from 4gb to 8gb.
Can I put my stock early 2011 mbp's ram into a mid 2011 macbook air?

No. The MacBook Air's RAM isn't upgradable, except when configuring a model in the online Apple Store.
(69186)

13" Macbook Pro with retina or MacBook Air?

Hello All,
This is my first post to this forum and I need an advice for buying my first MacBook ever. The time has come that I have decided to invest into a Mac and have always been a PC user until now. I was planning to buy the 13" 256GB version (1500 USD). My goal is to learn coding (JavaScript, PHP/MySQL, and HTML, Drupal for Web design) on the bust commute, with little to none intention of doing gaming on the machine. But plan to watch video/tutorial files, movies etc.
But I am reading some concerning reviews/complaints of people about the MacBook Pro with Retina series and I want to know whether the latest version (as of today, Feb 21st, 2014) of rMBP is problematic. Here is what I have learned about the existing issues so far and I would like if folks here could give me a piece of advice which one should I choose (Air vs Pro)?:
1) The trackpad/system sudden freeze;
2) The image retention/persistence problem;
2) Overheating when watching a video;
Honestly, I feel disappointed that Apple computers are having so many issues.
Are these issues still a problematic as of today for rMBP? Will the heating be problematic fo watching a movie for 1-2 hrs? Is it better to go with the air rather?
Please advise!
Thanks.
Frank

Also, would the applecare be strongly recommended for my situation?

Apple TV 2 choppy video playback when mirroring from Macbook Pro (Yosemite) and Macbook Air (Yosemite) but not iOS devices

Video playback is choppy (cuts out every 30-45 seconds) when air playing from both my MacBook Air 1.3 GHz Intel Core i5 running Yosemite and my husbands new MacBook Pro, but runs perfectly when mirroring from any of our iOS devices (iPhone 6+, iPad mini 3, etc.) We have Apple TV 2. This problem just started a few weeks ago, was working fine around Christmas. The problem seems to have coincidentally started right after our son tried plugging in and setting up his Chromecast on our tv. I disconnected the Chromecast, but we still have the problem. All of our software if up to date and I've tried disconnecting blue tooth, we do not have a microwave and our wifi network has a very strong signal. We have an Airport Extreme base station. Is there a solution to our problem?

Hi leahmturner,
I see that you are experiencing an issue with choppiness while AirPlay Mirroring from your computers to your Apple TV. I have an article that contains some helpful troubleshooting steps for you regarding this issue:
About AirPlay Mirroring in OS X - Apple Support
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201343
Optimizing image quality
Resolution matching modes
You can choose between two desktop resolution matching modes that let you select which display will have the best image. When AirPlay Mirroring is turned on, select an option under "Match Desktop Size To:" in the AirPlay Mirroring menu extra.
Match Desktop Size To: Apple TV
AirPlay Mirroring changes the desktop resolution to best match your Apple TV, resulting in a 16:9 image that fills the HDTV screen. This setting often produces the sharpest image on the HDTV. The aspect ratio and/or resolution of the built-in Mac display may change to accommodate the Apple TV.
Match Desktop Size To: This Mac
AirPlay Mirroring scales the contents of the desktop to fit on the Apple TV, leaving the resolution of your Mac's display unchanged. Use this setting for the sharpest image on your Mac's display. Depending on your Mac model, the resulting image may not fill the HDTV screen.
Troubleshooting AirPlay Mirroring
If you don't see mirroring options
If your Mac and Apple TV are on the same network, but no AirPlay Mirroring menu appears, your Apple TV may be asleep. Simply press a button on your Apple TV remote to wake it up. After a few seconds, the AirPlay Mirroring menu extra appears. If you still don't see the options you expect, make sure your Apple TV has the current software update installed. Also make sure that you have the "Show mirroring options in the menu bar when available" option selected in the Displays pane of System Preferences.
If the menu bar or Dock is cropped
Some HDTVs have bezels that cover a small percentage of the screen. This can result in a slight cropping of a full-resolution HDTV image. Depending on the HDTV model, AirPlay Mirroring may automatically adjust the picture size to prevent cropping. If you are using OS X Mountain Lion or later, and you see cropping of the menu bar or Dock when using AirPlay Mirroring, toggle the Overscan correction option in Displays preferences.
Minimize video post-processing
HDTVs often apply picture quality enhancements intended to improve the look of film and video sources. In some cases, these enhancements can lead to over-sharpening artifacts when displaying your Mac desktop. Some HDTV models have built-in settings to change or disable the enhancements for use with a computer (computer, presentation, or game modes). Otherwise, the controls for sharpness, detail enhancement and noise reduction can be used to optimize the appearance of the Mac desktop. Consult your HDTV’s manual for guidance on the appropriate settings for use with a computer.
Firewall security settings
If you use a firewall, make sure the following firewall security options have been set to allow AirPlay Mirroring to work:
Choose System Preferences from the Apple menu ().
Click Security & Privacy, then click Firewall.
Click the lock icon to unlock it if it's locked, then type an administrator name and password.
Click Firewall Options.
Deselect (uncheck) the “Block all incoming connections” checkbox.
Select (check) the “Automatically allow signed software to receive incoming connections” checkbox.
Thanks for coming to the Apple Support Communities!
Regards,
Braden

Macbook pro to air

is there a way to trade my macbook pro to macbook air in apple retailer?

No. Your best bet is to sell it yourself, that way you'll get the most money. There are sites that purchase used Macs, but again you'll get the most money selling it yourself. Apple does not due trade-ins, they have a recycle program, run buy a third-party, but you'll only get pennies on the dollar if you use that.

I have a new Macbook Pro - trying to migrate files etc from my Macbook Air using a Thunderbolt Cable between the two. I follow the directions but the two computers never "discover" each other. WiFi connect works but 70 hours is a rough deal.

I have a new Macbook Pro. Trying to migrate files etc from my Macbook Air using a Thunderbolt Cable between them.
I follow the directions but the two computers never "discover" each other - using a WiFi connection works but 70 hours is a rough deal.
(Mac OS 10.8.2 on both computers)

Are you trying target disk mode?
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH10725
Ciao

I am trying to restore my old Macbook Pro data using Time Machine on a new Mackbook Air from external hard drive, but when I install I get two different loggin accounts and I only want one loggin account

I am trying to restore my old Macbook Pro data using Time Machine to a new Macbook Air from an external hard drive, but when I restore I get two diferrent loggin accounts and I only wnat one loggin account to access all my data/files?

This web site might answer all of your Time machine questions:
http://pondini.org/OSX/Home.html
Ciao.

Should I buy a new Macbook Pro 13 inch or Macbook Air 13 inch?

Hi,
I was wondering if I should buy the new Macbook pro 13 inch, or keep my old 2010 1.4 C2D Macbook Air. I am not satisfied with the tiny 64GB SSD that my current Macbook Air has, because just a few weeks after I had done a clean reinstall of OSX Lion, the whole disk almost filled up. The one thing I do like about the Macbook Air, however is the speed of the SSD. Its really quick, and it boots in under 20 seconds. The Air didn't have many performance issues (other than overheating like crazy after playing a few graphics-intensive games).
If I were to buy a new Mac, my price range would be from $1200-$1500. I plan to use Garageband/iMovie frequently for making Youtube videos/school projects, and store a large music library. I also plan to do some moderate gaming and run Windows 7 in Bootcamp/Parallels. I don't plan to take it around much, but I don't want to have to weigh down my backpack in case I have to. My two options now would be the new Macbook Pro 13 inch or the new Macbook Air 13 inch. Could anyone give me a suggestion of which computer to buy?
Thanks!

I went through this same thing when I purchased my first Mac 3 days ago, also between the 13 inch MBA and MBP. I ended up deicding with the 13inch MBP, here's why:
1. More hard drive space, yes it may not be an SSD but more space is more space. I have also heard about people taking out the disc drive and adding an SSD in its place, so there would be an option.
2. The disc drive, I rarely do use it but just in case it's there and easier than carrying around an external.
3. Upgradability, I plan on keeping this Mac for a while because I spent so much on it. On a MBP I can upgrade the internal parts such as the hard drive and RAM. On a MBA everything is soldered together so what you buy is what you stick with.
4. Ethernet port, this is one that could be gotten around by an adapter but I still took it into consideration. Not everywhere has wifi yet including my work where every computer is hard wired.
5. Bootcamp, as well I plan to run Windows 7 on mine and Windows 7 takes a good amount of space so this is another spot where the larger hard drive of the MBP comes in handy. You could always have an external hard drive and run Windows 7 off of that on an Air but then you would have to have it always plugged in when you wanted to run Windows 7.
About me, I am a student so I had a lot to think about and read a lot of reviews online before I decided on my MBP but I am glad I decided on this over an Air. It may be a few pounds heavier also but in the long run for me I think the Pro will be better, I do plan on adding more RAM in the future as software becomes more memory intensive. With you're pricerange being 1200-1500 the 13inch MBP with the i7 processor may be one to look at. From Apple with their student discount, if you are one, you get $100 of plus a $100 giftcard. At BestBuy (where I got mine) the price of the i7 13inch MBP is 1,424.99 and if you're a student you get $100 off but no giftcard. I got the i5 13inch MBP because I don't need an i7.
In the end it all comes down to what works for you, but I hope I was able to help you some.

Macbook pro 15-inch 2011 vs. MacBook Air 13-inch 2013

Hello. I currently own a MacBook Pro 15-inch, early 2011 model. It has 8 GB of RAM, a quad-core, 2.3 GHz i7 processor, hi-res, anti-glare display, an AMD 6750m and Intel HD 3000. I bought it off of an Apple product store on Ebay about 3 and a half months ago. It was 1,350$. It was in perfect condition when I bought it, and it still is. I'm really into producing music, and I use Reason 6.5. I also do some other small things on my laptop, like word-processing, web-browsing and I bring it to school everyday. I was wandering if I should sell this laptop on Ebay, and buy a brand-new Macbook Air, 13-inch, 2013 model. The laptop is a little thick and heavy, and its battery-life is nothing compared to the MacBook Air. I really value battery-life I would probably upgrade the RAM to 8 gigs, and maybe upgrade the processor to 1.7 GHz, maybe upgrade the SSD to 256, but I might not. I was wandering if this would be a good idea. How much would I be able to sell this laptop for on Ebay? Is the MacBook Air weaker or stronger than the laptop I am using now? Screen real estate is something that matters a lot when using a music program, which is why I initially went for this laptop. Now, since the MacBook Air is smaller, I know that it displays just as much as this laptop does, so I don't think that the screen size would be that big of a problem. I am thinking about saving up for a 27-inch iMac, which would then be my primary machine, but if I were able to buy one, it wouldn't be for awhile. Anyways, Thanks to anybody who can help me!

Sky Sailing
Is the MacBook Air weaker or stronger than the laptop I am using now?
Nice to see you again.
The macbook Air is 'stronger' than the Pro only in terms of containing MUCH fewer parts, far less to fault, easier to repair
both have unibody aluminum alloy frames.

MacBook Pro 15-inch Early 2011 vs MacBook Air 13-inch 2013

Hello. I currently own a MacBook Pro 15-inch, early 2011 model. It has 8 GB of RAM, a quad-core, 2.3 GHz i7 processor, hi-res, anti-glare display, an AMD 6750m and Intel HD 3000. I bought it off of an Apple product store on Ebay about 3 and a half months ago. It was 1,350$. It was in perfect condition when I bought it, and it still is. I'm really into producing music, and I use Reason 6.5. I also do some other small things on my laptop, like word-processing, web-browsing and I bring it to school everyday. I was wandering if I should sell this laptop on Ebay, and buy a brand-new Macbook Air, 13-inch, 2013 model. The laptop is a little thick and heavy, and its battery-life is nothing compared to the MacBook Air. I really value battery-life I would probably upgrade the RAM to 8 gigs, and maybe upgrade the processor to 1.7 GHz, maybe upgrade the SSD to 256, but I might not. I was wandering if this would be a good idea. How much would I be able to sell this laptop for on Ebay? Is the MacBook Air weaker or stronger than the laptop I am using now? Screen real estate is something that matters a lot when using a music program, which is why I initially went for this laptop. Now, since the MacBook Air is smaller, I know that it displays just as much as this laptop does, so I don't think that the screen size would be that big of a problem. I am thinking about saving up for a 27-inch iMac, which would then be my primary machine, but if I were able to buy one, it wouldn't be for awhile. Anyways, Thanks to anybody who can help me!

Sky Sailing
Is the MacBook Air weaker or stronger than the laptop I am using now
Its stronger in alloy form factor, slim design with only ONE moving part, no HD to crash from mechanical failure of impact etc.
Ive got an Imac and current Air, and owned several Air, the air is the hands down choice for myself and I wouldnt part with it for any amount of money. Also own a couple macbook Pro, new and older one i rebuilt.
Here is an excellent video comparison between the 11” I5 vs. I7 2013 Macbook Air.
http://www.apple-tubes.com/apple-macbook-air-11-mid-2013-haswell-i5-vs-i7-compar ison/
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7113/2013-macbook-air-core-i5-4250u-vs-core-i7-465 0u/2
I5 vs. I7 performance 13” Macbook Air 2013
Boot performance
11.7 I5 ……11.4 I7
Cinebench
1.1 I5….1.41 I7
IMovie Import and Opt.
6.69 I5….5.35 I7
IMovie Export
10.33 I5…8.20 I7
Final Cut Pro X
21.47 I5…17.71 I7
Adobe Lightroom 3 Export
25.8 I5….31.8 I7
Adobe Photoshop CS5 Performance
27.3 I5…22.6 I7
Macbook Air:
Only one moving part, ultrafast boot time SSD, the full power of laptop with the weight of an Ipad (close).
Air is the only Mac that has Haswell, 802ac wifi, and incredible 12hr. batt life in 13" I5. HOWEVER NOW the new Pro have 802ac wifi
Recommend buying the Air with 8gig Ram.
Pack around a regular laptop around about 20 days, then an Air, .....after that the standard laptops stays at home.
Only one moving part, the fan. No moving HD heads to crash or moving platters. Runs a LOT cooler than anything else out there (which = durability). Heater is a killer on a scale of 10X over that of accidents.
Also the AIR has far fewer parts to fail inside than a standard laptop. Really only a few replacement parts
The speakers on the Air, contrary to what most people would assume, are much louder than on the macbook Pro.
The Air in general is faster due to the SSD, also if you have a 802ac Router (i.e. Airport Extreme) then the Air over wifi is a LOT faster.
If youre going to be dragging a notebook around campus all the time, the Air makes things a lot more lovely.
The FINAL consideration of course is your application USE, and needs regarding same (see specs and video above)
The new Air, NOW with Mavericks is just 'king of the hill'. Nothing touches it

How Do I back up mail on my MacBook Pro after deleting it on my MacBook Air?

Hello everyone!
Recently I deleted some emails from my MacBook Air not realising that they would be deleted on my MacBook Pro. When I realised what was going on I turned off the wifi on my Air and continued deleting. Basically I scrubbed just about everything in order to free up space on my Air for my iPhoto collection
Now I want to back up my mail folders and their contents on my MacBook Pro so I don't lose them.
Any suggestions? I had thought about duplicating the Folders on my mac in iCloud. When I select all and then go to the new iClould folder and paste it is very slow.
Does anyone have any other suggestions? Now that I have learned (the hard way!) that when I deleted the mail messages from my MacBook Air I was removing them from the server I am VERY worried. I am afraid that when I reconnect my Air to the Internet it will delete all of my MacBook Air mail folders and emails.
I do have the Time Capsule and spoke to Apple Care here in Sydney about it yesterday. They told me my mail is not backed up there unless I create a special folder. I just tried ringing them again but Apple Care is closed today...
Thanks in advance for any help! If I should redirect this question to a more appropriate community please advise!
Becky

beckyfromoz wrote:
I do have the Time Capsule and spoke to Apple Care here in Sydney about it yesterday. They told me my mail is not backed up there unless I create a special folder. I just tried ringing them again but Apple Care is closed today...
Mail is backed up automatically. If you make backups automatically, open Mail application and then, open the Time Machine app (in /Applications/Utilities). You will access to the Time Machine interface, and you will be able to see all your mails of all the backups you have, and you will be able to restore them. It means that your mails are backed up onto the Time Capsule

11" Macbook Air vs. 13" Macbook Pro

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