1333 or 1600 worth extra 360 $?

Dear Gentlemen!I was so inattentive that I bought this type memory for my X79 platform (i7 3930K):
G.Skill 32GB 2133MHz (that time this was on stock, and the seller said there will not be any problem)
Now I read about the memory problem with I7 3930K. and Im trying to change with the following models :
G.Skill 1,5V 1333MHz 64GB ( http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=432 )
or a same just 1600MHz http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=432.
My question is what do you think there will be any difference from the speed diff. when I using After effects and Premiere Pro CS5.5 ??
The price diff not negligible.
I know would be better low voltage but in my country there is now other type on the market, and maybe the retailer deduct my old 32GB kit which almost brand new.
Thanks for your help.

http://tweakers.net/pricewatch/cat/675/ddr3-sdram.html#filter:ZY7NCsIwEITfZc45aNtU6AMUPAiC 3sRDTVZYSH_Y1B8oeXcTbU5eFma_mWEW3KQb7N56NBdUuwJXhTuLn4_Chs7c06F7oxkezv0BHjIYxZK0TM6iwZPp5a EwJePXtFHwZpRflc4iE3JkZrKnicy6o4zpYpum-Phs2c0kESzQVbp9SqLWuqyjsU-lqwohfAA
Notice that prices shown are including 19% VAT.
Here is the link to the shop: http://afuture.nl/productview.php?productID=340302 and the price is now down to € 380 excluding VAT.

Similar Messages

Difference between 1333 and 1600 mhz for 16Go RAM

Is there a big difference between a 1333 and 1600 mhz 16Go RAM and does my macbook pro 13" (2,9GHz intel core i7 - actually on 8Go RAM - 2011) support those?
Is this one ok for my mac? : http://www.amazon.fr/memory-upgrades-1333Mhz-MacbookPros-laptops/dp/B006FW8RCU/r ef=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382738058&sr=8-2&keywords=Mémoire+16+Go+%282+x+8+Go%29+SO DIMM+1333+MHz+DDR3+PC3-10600
Thanks,
T.Dehon

1333 MHz RAM for your machine. Don't use anything else but what is recommended.
Maximum Memory
16 GB (Actual) 8 GB (Apple)
Memory Slots
2 - 204-pin PC-10600 (1333 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMM

MOVED: Problem with changing 1333 to 1600

This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Modding Corner.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=142224.0

The processor's memory controller only supports DDR3-1333 memory modules. In addition to that, you modules are actually just DDR3-1333 sticks. DDR3-1600 is an OC rating which is not necessarely stable. Furthermore, your modules are specified for Intel Systems, which further complicates matters.
You can try to increase the DRAM Voltage further. In case that does not help, stick to DDR3-1333.

Set BIOS Ram from 1333 to 1600 = BSOD

Here is my setup:
MSI X58A-GD45 LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
SAPPHIRE 100283-3L Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner Black SATA Model AD-7260S-0B - OEM
hec X-Power Pro 600 600W Continuous @ 40°C ATX12V V2.2 SLI Ready CrosFire Ready Power Supply
2 x Western Digital Caviar Black WD5002AALX 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Inteand 4G ramrnal Hard Drive
Intel Core i7-940 Bloomfield 2.93GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Desktop Processor
Ram - CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
The ram can be set to extreme mode (1600) through the BIOS. Acording to the board manual it can handle it. The BIOS is even set up for it. For some reason every time I set it to this I get BSOD on boot up. Even if it does boot up it starts making noises out of the sounds card and then BSOD.
How do I get this ram to run at 1600? What am i doing wrong?
I have already disabled Spread Spectrum
Thanks
Pete

Well, first off, if this is the RAM I believe it is, it is for Dual Channel systems, & not the best choice for a an X58 Triple Channel mainboard. Leave Spread Spectrum disabled. Adjust RAM manually in the BIOS, forget XMP & set it to disabled. Set RAM to Link, adjust timings to 9 9 9 24 tRFC 88, Memory Ratio 6, Uncore Ratio 12, & DRAM V. to 1.65v's. If this works, you might start reducing that RAM V. down until it destabilizes & then set it up a notch above that. This is presuming your bclk is at 133 & you are using the black two dimm slots closest to the CPU.

P55 1156 GD65, Won't restart propertly after manual DDR3 OC (1333 to 1600).

Problem:
When I OC the rams from 1333 to1600 in BIOS, I am unable to complete a full restart of the computer when I am in windows. Once I hit the restart button, the computer would shut down, and then be idle instead of normally booting up. I would have to then manually push the restart button on my front case in order for the computer to come out of idle to start windows. (Idle as in the fans are still spinning, computer is still on, black screen.)
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
My computer (First Build):
i5 750 CPU
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
P55 1156 GD65
Corsair CMX4GX3M2A1600C9 XMS3 4 GB PC3-12800 Core i5 Memory Kit (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145260&Tpk=CMX4GX3M2A1600C9)
MSI GeForce GTX 275 Twin Frozr OC
Antec Earthwatt 650w PSU
Samsung Lightscribe burner
Western Digital Black 750GB
Antec 300 Case
Windows 7 Professional

It is actually not correct, that the BIOS automatically sets the Command Rate to "1T" instead of "2T". You might wanna report this issue to MSI Technical Support:
http://support.msi.com/
The more people report it, the faster this problem will get fixed in a future BIOS Release.

890FXA-GD70 Overclocking DDR 1333 Memory to 1600

I am a professional network administrator and have been building my own computers since 2002. However, am not a gamer and have never over clocked anything. I just built a new rig based on the on a MSI 890FXA-GD70 mobo and an AMD 1090T processor. The mobo supported 1600, 1800, and 2000 speeds of over clocked DDR3 1333 RAM. I purchased 2 2GB sticks of Corsair Dominator CMP4GX3M2A1600C8 RAM because it was supposed to be able to handle being OCed to 1600 with no problems. My system is running great but it automatically detects the RAM as 1333 MHz with timings of 9-9-9-24 instead of the advertised 1600 with 8-8-8-24. I went into the BIOS and manually set the timings to 8-8-8-24 and it worked fine. I then set the ratio from Auto to 1/4 which showed the speed of the RAM at 1600 MHz. However, when I told it to save the setting and reboot it would not come up at all. The only way to recover my system was to use the jumpers on the mobo to reset the CMOS back to its original settings. From everything I've read it's easy to set the RAM to 1600. Both my mobo and the RAM are advertised by the manufacturer as supporting 1600 DDR3. I would appreciate any advice anyone has. Specific settings for my mobo would be appreciated. My system is fine the way it is but I paid extra to have certified 1600 MHz RAM and would like to be able to use it at that speed. Thanks in advance.

Mobilebyrd,
I received a personal message from you with the question below but for some reason my account won't let me send personal messages or view to profile to get your e-mail address. Hopefully you will get this. Please post a reply to this forum if you have any more questions. Hopefully it will help others how are having the same problem. I have posted the question and answer. Please keep in mind that the settings I used are for the Corsair Dominator RAM that is approved to go to 1800 MHz. You settings may be different but this is how you change them. Also some of the settings have to be made individually for each stick of ram while others apply to all sticks. I am not familiar with the setting for TC but assume that is the same as CAS since that's the only one missing and it's in the same order. The timings on the RAM like 8-8-8-24 are in order of CAS, tRCD, tRP, and tRAS. They are also in that same order in the BIOS.
Q: I saw where you had successfully overclocked your memory inside the BIOS. I have looked at the manual for the board but have not been able to figure out how to input the changes for the memory. Can you supply a step by step for accessing the Cell Menu and then accessing the Ram's TC, TRCD, TRP, etc. I have figured out how to change the command rate and can see the aforementioned timings but have not been able to determine where I go to change them.
A: To Overclock Memory from 1333 to 1600
Go to Cell Menu
Advanced DRAM Configuration (press enter to go into sub menu)
Change each option below by hitting enter on default setting (auto) and using up and down arrows to select new setting then hit enter to select it.
DRAM Timing Mode: Both
CAS: 8
tRCD: 8
tRP: 8
tRAS: 24 *highlight Auto and use + and – buttons to change
(must change for each stick of RAM individually)
ESC to exit sub menu
Under Advanced DRAM Configuration select FSB/DRAM Ratio
FSB/DRAM Ratio: 1/4 (for 1600 MHz RAM)
Command Rate: Auto
Scroll down further in the menu until you get to voltages
DRAM Voltage: 1.651 *highlight
Options are grayed out, you must select Auto and use + and – buttons to change value then push enter to select.
Spread Spectrum: Enable
After making these changes and it's working I recommend backing up your BIOS settins to a USB device from the M-Flash menu. I would also recommend backing up your working BIOS before making these changes in case it won’t book after you change the RAM settings. In my case I didn’t change the RAM voltage and it wouldn’t boot so I had to use the reset jumper on the Mobo to set it back to factory settings. I then had to reconfigure everything else that I had already done.
Save and Exit

Buying a T520 is the FHD screen worth the extra $200

Im buying a T520 in the next couple of days. My hobby is photography and I edit a lot in LR and PS. I am looking at going over my budget and getting a FHD screen instead of the HD+. Can any one give me any feedback, is it worth the extra $200.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

If you plan to work with LR and PS FHD does worth extra 200 .
You can downgrade other components like HDD, Video graphics card, no WWAN card, to compensate screen price.
You can upgrade other components in the future, but you can't upgrade the screen.
My TP : T410s i5, SSD, RAM 6Gb, Intel HD, Centrino N6300, Win 7 Ultimate 64

Is Macbook Pro 15-inch worth the money?

Is the entry level Macbook Pro 15 inch with specs at the time of this writing worth the money ? I am a student who does the usual school stuff, web surfing, and quite heavy gaming(Like FIFA).I am considering to purchase a Macbook as I was enticed by its design and Mac OS Lion's smooth,fun and enjoyable user interface. Having taken a number of trips to Apple Stores, I actually want to buy the 15" Pro(13" can't run FIFA and 17" is too heavy)) However, one can never know if I he or she does not actually try it out. So, I want to ask all users who use Macbook Pro 15, are Mac OS X and design things that are worth extra money for?

They are to me. Whether they are or not to you, no one but you can say.
Honestly, the question you have asked is impossible for anyone to answer. For those responding who own a MBP, especially people like myslef who have been buying and using Apple laptops since before the iBook, the answer will be yes, they are worth it to us (why else would we keep buying Apple laptops?).
It's purely a personal decision as only you can decide what is "worth it" to you.
I primarily buy Apple hardware because I prefer the OS X operating system over the alternatives (Windows or Linux, while OS X gives me the perfect blend of CLI UNIX and a GUI), and I have been very satisfied with their hardware as well.

720 X3 -790GX-G65 and DDR 1600 ?

Hi all , New MSI customer here .
Ok ,So I got me a 790GX-G65 motherboard for cheap from Newegg on a "open box" deal $89.99 . Also got a 4870 1gb "open box" tooo for $129.99 and 4gb OCZ DDR1600 "new retail" for $65.99 (see signiture for model #'s) for a sweet upgrade from my BIOSTAR A770 A2+ motherboard with a 5000+ Black Edition along with 2x1gb Super Talent DDR800 and 3870 512mb .
The 790GX-G65 was still in anti-static bag un-opened and all accessories were there ,only the sticker seal on the box was opened (lucky me) . I used My Power suppy and other goodies like , case , DVD and CD drives from my previous build and could'nt be happier about the performance boost I got for the $$$ spend !
Ok, now that I've tried to give you a little background on the build here's is my issue or question (whichever you prefer) :
I cannot get my memory to run at 1600 regardless of what I do , I could'nt even run 1333mhz stable until I flashed to latest BIOS 1.3 ( board came with 1.1 ) @1333 RiG would run just fine booting up and up to desktop any type of stress at all like multi tasking it would get "flakey" and start pausing and jumping and gaming was out of the question, as the Video driver ( 9.4 BTW )would crash as soon as 3D started . After flashing to 1.3 bios all is well at 1333 and stable in Prime for hours on end with no errors. Games run well tooo ( Crysis all "very high" settings with 8xAA and 16xAF via CCC , smooth as silk @ 1280X1024 in Windows 7 RC ) .
This is what I've tried so far to get RAM up to 1600mhz with no avail . BTW running in Dimms 3+4 (the two furthest from CPU socket)at the moment !
1) changed fsb/dram ratio to 1.4 ............no luck !
2) raised dram voltage all the way up to 1.92 ! ........no luck !
3) set timings to OCZ's specs of 8-8-8-24 (and even set all timings to slowest BIOS would allow)..... no luck !
4) tried lowering HT and NB ratios along with CPU multiplier and raising FSB using 1.2 and 1.3.3 memory dividers to get ram up to 1600 without overclocking the CPU ......... no luck !
5) about every combination of 1-4
and a few other things tooooo , can't remember every tweak I've tried !
I get a post loop that will go on forever and never show anything on the screen when RAM is in dimms 3-4 , and using Dimms 1-2 I make it up to the initializing USB devices ,then get Cmos checksum error, which upon enter BIOS menu it has changed everything to "optimized defaults" without any input from me !
I'm alittle lost as to what to try next ,but I'd sure like to try to get the RAM up to 1600mhz instead of 1333mhz ,regardless of , the performance difference ( I read the post about AMD 1333 vs 1600 performance BTW )
Since the memory is rated to run at that speed ,I'd atleast like to see it run that speed if nothing else .
I don't think Power is a problem as I can overclock the 720 x3 up to 3.8 with just changing the multi to 19x and stable at stock voltage ( ******** ) ,even though 3.9 seems to be the wall with this ( 906 ) CPU ,that I have as no amount of volts will get me over that
Like I said earlier NEW MSI Customer ,,have played with a few older MSI boards ,but they were much older and other folks . This is the first MSI purchase made by myself , so far I 'm liking what I see
Any suggestions ????? Or am I overlooking the Obvious ??
Thanks in advance ,for any replys!

Quote from: Fredrik on 20-May-09, 04:43:58
Do not have this board myself, but it may have to do with the memory used. OCZ memory's name says it all:
" Special Ops Urban Elite "
Much prefer Corsair, and have ever since dear Richard helped me out a thousand years ago.
I've owned just about every brand of memory ( or installed on clients machines ) available to the mainsteam public from retail sellers , I like Corsair toooo ,but was budget building on this build for myself and have used OCZ memory on a few builds for customers and never had any problems whatsoever with their memory .
The main reason I went with this choice on the memory was #1 price verses timings and speed compared to Corsair or Kingston Hyper X ,, Corsair was high dollar and timings were alittle slow in the price range I was looking for ,,,Kingstons timings were slowwwwww and voltage requirements were toooo high for my taste .
From what I've seen , the only difference in these modules compared to OCZ's Gold edition is the heat spreader ,,timings seem to be the same . So I don't believe "Special Ops Urban Elite " means anything other than other than the color of the heat spreader used on it,,which I really could'nt care less about !
Thanks for the input ,,, any and all comments or suggestions are appreciated !

Building a system for the first time

I recently posted a few weeks back about buying a system from either Dell or HP http://forums.adobe.com/thread/732545?tstart=0. I quickly learned that those systems were not going to fit my need based on my budget. So, I decided after researching components that I will build a computer by hand for the first time. I am still operating on a budget of around $1000, but I'm giving the budget a bit of flexibility so I don't limit my options. I am a hobbyist who only has experience using Power Director on my laptop, but I had a lot of fun editing for the first time and I want to step up my game. With the new system, I plan to use adobe premiere cs5 and after effects. I will capture my video from either an HD Helmet cam or HD flip format is MPEG-4 AVC/H.264. So where I need help is selecting the right things to optimize my performance. The following is a list of items I'm looking with their prices. Please help me decide what will be right for me. Open to any combo of suggestions or comments. Thanks!
Processor
Intel i7 930 $200 microcenter
Intel i7 950 $230 microcenter
I don't know if I want overclock yet, but it sounds like a good idea. $30 for the upgrade to the i7 950 seems pretty good. ro do I use the money elsewhere?
Motherboard
GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R $210
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128423
Seems like a good mobo. Are there any features that this board lacks that I should look for in another board? Also, newegg offers significant deals on "open box" products. Is this a good way to go?
Ram
I have a few questions for this selection. I've currently budgeted approximately $250 for ram. I'm looking at going with 12GB. I certainly don't have the budget for 24GB, but what about 16GB?
Do I look for 1333 or 1600? 2GB or 4GB sticks? Would I be fine if I bought say 2 packs of 6GB ram, both same manufacturer and same type or would I want to buy 1 pack of 12GB?
GPU
Nvidia Geforce gtx 460 1GB $220
Is it worth it to go to the 470? I know it's a better card but being a budget is really worth the upgrade or can I get away with a 460?
Any recomendations for a 460 as there are many in the same price range?
Drives
I see these drives priced in the $55 range which would leave at around $220 for the lot of em
These are the drives I'm looking at as they are highly recommended on this board:
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3
WD Caviar Black
Right now, I plan to buy 4 drives. Do I want 4 of the exact same? or say 1 cavier black for os/ programs and 3 samsung f3 for pagefile/scratch/renders? Can I also get a brief description of what these are too? Also, could have a 500gb for os/programs and 1tb for the rest or would it be advisable for 1tb for all? or 500gb for all?
I don't think I can do a raid setup based on my budget, but I saw this as an option on the thread for storage rules is to use the on-board IHCR or Marvell chip. I don't know really anything about this, but what would the price be to explore this option?
Case
Cooler Master Storm Scout $90
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119196
I picked this case for a few reasons. I seem move about every 6 months so the handles on top would be very useful, and it seems to have good cooling. I know a full size case is recommended, but they seem to be significantly more.
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12P SE2 120mm SSO CPU Cooler $75
Everywhere I look this cooler seems to get great reviews. I figure it could be a good idea to get a good cooler if I get a mid-tower case.
The only other option I can think of for case/cooling is to combine the budgeted price for both and look at different options like a full size case with a less quality cooler. Is this a better option
PSU
Looking into an 850 W power supply. I figure to budget $80 towards as I've seen a few in that range
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817517003
so would something like this work?
Final Thoughts
So, when you add it all up its about $1350. First question, how does this look overall? Nothing I've chosen is obviously overkill, but is there anything I can afford to go cheaper on? or anything I should invest more into?
Thanks again to everyone for the help. The resources, info and people on this forum have just been awesome.

Seems like we are planning very similar PCs. My build is going to be for: amateur video editing including animation mainly with CS5, application design and coding mainly with MS Visual Studio 2008, HTPC (until I build a cheap dedicated unit for the TV), general family computing. I am new to this stuff, but can at least share some pricing and my decision making process so far.
Here is what I have selected so far regarding the parts:
MotherBoard: Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R x58
Seems like one of the lower cost x58 MBs and has some decent reviews. Wait for a sale, you should be able to find this for around $180.00. That is how much I got it for from New Egg (straight up with savings code no rebate), should be arriving on my doorstep tomorrow. Also, I think Fry's has it now for $170.00 in store, but that includes a $20.00 rebate and tax.
PowerSupply: Corsair TX650W
Some might think this is on the low side. On the other hand, I have gotten other conflicting advice, stating that many people overestimate their actual power needs. So who knows. I have read that a PSU works more efficient when it is matched to the power needs - meaning that a 1000w PSU that is generally seeing 200w usage might not be so efficient. Anyway, I got the PSU for $50.00 from New Egg (with rebate), and it has a good reputation, so we will see how it goes.
Graphics Card: GIGABYTE GV-N460OC-1GI GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5
I was planning on a lower cost card, but then noticed this card for sale over the weekend for $178.00 (with rebate), so I ordered one. I have read the GTX460 has reasonable power requirements, and can be made to take advantage of CUDA/Mercury with CS5 (although haven't done much research into that). This particular version based on reviews, seems fairly quite with the twin fans. It's possible I overspent a bit on this card considering my needs, time will tell.
Here is what I am planning to purchase:
CPU: i7 930
I am fortunate to live near a Fry's and MicroCenter ($200.00). From reading the forum, seems like this is generally the lowest CPU folks go in terms of building an editing machine. I understand the argument that for only $30.00 more, one can upgrade to the i7 950. On the other hand, that argument could be made for many of the components, and then before you know it, a little extra here and there, and the budget is shot:) So I am planning to draw the line at the 930.
Here are my undecided’s:
Memory
I am up in the air between 6or12gig/module compatibility/cost. But one thing for you to keep in mind, is the official memory certified for the motherboard you select. For the Gigabyte motherboard, I missed out on a recent RAM deal, because the RAM was not officially certified for the board. Some people tell me this is important, while others say "RAM is RAM" and no big deal. Something to consider.
HardDrives
Same as you, considering the Samsung Spinpoint F3. Good prices now at MicroCenter on the 16MB cache models in 500 and 1TB sizes. I just don't know if larger cache sizes are important or not, since they are also offered in 32MB and higher.
Anyway, good luck with your build and hope it works well.

Core i7 suite for CS4 please! Done some research...

Hello,
I'm looking to spend £1000-£1500 for the tower alone.
(Software will be Premiere CS4 with Cineform 4K)
I'll be working with higher end compressed HD (XDCAM EX, 42MBs RED footage, Canon 7D footage etc, photography, graphics, audio work, and so on)
I'm keen to overclock slightly, since I think this setup would have great potential for it..
Please tear this apart:
Core i7 920 (D0)
£205
Corsair Hydro H50
£52
ASUS P6T Deluxe V2
£203
6GB Corsair Dominator TR3X6G1600C8D
£104
(Is this enough RAM? Or is 6x2GB Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600 worth the £206?)
Palit GeForce GTX275
£160
(Is this going to make ANY difference to my CS4 work or is this just going to be good for games?
The occasional game would be fun but primarily I want to give CS4 some beefy GPU to take advantange of it's possible for <£250ish
Creative X-Fi Xtreme Gamer
£63
(Reading your posts Harm, you don't believe in Creative?)
(System Drive)
(Is an SSD worth it? Am I paying 200% for 2% in performance or are there any sensible SSD options for fast OS/apps?
Should I be looking at SSDs for my video drive too? Personally I could live with 500GB or less as my video drive if I had to. As long as I can get a couple of current projects on there.)
(Scratch Disk)
Samsung Spinpoint F1 1TB
£60
(I'm very keen to have 3 or preferably 4 logical drives. This is for many reasons including load sharing on multicamera edits)
(Video drive RAID0)
Samsung Spinpoint F1 1TB x 2
£60 x 2
(Or VelociRaptor or SSDs?..)
Enermax Revolution 85+ 1,050w
£196
(Could I get away with a £104 Dark Power Pro 650w?)
Aerocool V-Touch PRO / Aerocool Syclone
~£90
(REALLY need some help on cases! Will everything fit in these cases/stay cool enough or are they just shiny toys? I really like the look of them both...)
Really appreciate any suggestions.. Where would the bottlenecks be in this?
Cheers

This will be moved to the hardware forum, where it belongs (you should have posted it there in the first place),
ASUS P6T Deluxe V2
Do you need the IDE connector or would a SAS connector make more sense? In the latter case the WS may be a better choice.
6GB Corsair Dominator TR3X6G1600C8D
I would definitely opt for 12 GB, but not for DDR3-1600 memory. If you want to overclock up to 3.6 GHz, DDR-1333 is more than enough. You can use DDR3-1600 if you use a lower multiplier for the CPU. Otherwise it would require heavy overclocking to 4.0 GHz to use that memory speed or you lose the advantage of speed stepping to save on your energy bill.
Creative X-Fi Xtreme Gamer
You are right, I'm not a fan of Creative. Bloated software, often causing problems while the mobo has perfectly decent sound on-board. Save your money.
(System Drive)
SSD currently is IMO too expensive. I would prefer a Velociraptor currently. Once both the TRIM function has been shown to work and the prices have come down significantly, they are really worth investigating, but at this moment, no.
Should I be looking at SSDs for my video drive too?
If you can afford an OCZ Z-drive... (500 GB for around euros 2300)
I'm very keen to have 3 or preferably 4 logical drives.
Partitioning is a bad idea. Get four physical drives.
Enermax Revolution 85+ 1,050w
This may be more than you need. Probably you can easily get by with 650-750 W . Check the link I gave in the PC Buying Guide about PSU's
Cases: Just look at some reviews on the internet. This is very personal. My favorite is Lian-Li, but they are in another price league as well. CoolerMaster HAF 922 seems affordable and may be an alternative, but I admit I did not search for the specs on your intended case.

Z77a-gd65-having issues running 2 gtx 560 sc in sli--any help out there???

I just built this unit last night and I have a issue that is beyond me....Normally I just throw them together and throw to cards in download all the drivers and turn on sli.......
But with this one the driver keeps crashing and I have no idea what it is--everything is brand new....
z77a-gd65-----I7 3770k
16gb g.skill ripjaws-----------4x4 sticks running in 1333 not 1600
samsung ssd.....
water loop....plenty of cooling....
2 gtx 560 sc 2gb version in sli
BCCode:   117
BCP1:   FFFFFA800D7DC010
BCP2:   FFFFF880049C0198
BCP3:   0000000000000000
BCP4:   0000000000000000
OS Version:   6_1_7601
Service Pack:   1_0
Product:   256_1
It only does this in sli......Right now I have only one card in and i took the other card out...so far no issues......I just can not figure it out..
I tried a new sli brindge and that did not work....Than I switched power supply to 850 from a 750 and that did not work....each 6 pin has it own power rail..nothing brindged on the cable.....Is there a setting In bios I am missing............
Help me out guys....I am at a loss..I really want to run 2 cards.....will be testing the single card for a few more hours and that I will swap it out with the other.....But am I missing something.....Voltage on each card is kind of weird I guess..1.00 volts to .850........

Quote
I know this is besides the point...But you learn something new everyday.....so far no crash....Only difference---I have 2 sticks of ram and not 4....I really would like to know more about this. as of right now. I want to just leave the 2 sticks and make 100% sure the cards are not the issue. You would figure with this set up...I should not have any issues like that what so ever......so why would the i7 3770k have issue like this? Is it know to have problems like that? I even spent the extra cash on this build....now I am second guessing my choice. should have stuck with the z77a-gd55 or lower. So you think the cpu was having issue with the IMC and bandwidth...Talk about weird....I will keep testing like it is right now and than tmr-try uping the voltage & I/O.....I need to make 100% sure its not my cards...
I think you mis-understood (as i wasn't clear)
Set the voltage to 1.65 & 1.1 and install all 4 sticks and re-test.
I wasn't saying the cpu was broken or anything like that. What I was getting at was that the Integrated Memory Controller on dual channel machines sometime have a bit of trouble with all of the band width when hooked up to quad channel. Can also be cause by the memory itself as Froggy was saying:
Quote
Test the other two sticks individually in the primary DIMM slot to see if one or both are faulty.
Virtu-MVP was an exciting idea that hasn't really worked as well as it should due to a lack of support from LUCID. I disabled mine long ago due to nusiance issues.
Quote
Right now---since I have taken out the 2 extra sticks of Ram.....I have not had a single crash..."2 hours".I even turn up the stick to the suggested 1600...Running great...I am a firm believer if it an't broke.....Leave it alone>>>>>>>>>>LOL!!!!!I like the way it is running....
If this is the case, you can reset the dramv and I/o voltage to "Auto".
Perhaps even enable the XMP profile of the ram.

What memory to get for my system?

This is a common question when people are building a new system and the uncertainties about compatibility with certain CPU's are numerous. In order to address this issue, let me give you a number of steps you can take to make sure you buy the memory that will in all likelihood do exactly what it is supposed to do.
Make up your mind about the number of memory sticks you want to install. On the X79 platform, do you want to use 4 slots, or do you want to fully populate all 8 slots? This is very important especially with i7-3930K CPU's, which have a rather finicky memory controller.
Make a shortlist of quad or octo packs of memory sticks in the size you want, limiting yourself to ONLY sticks using 1.5V or less.
Check the motherboard manufacturer's site QVL list to see which of the sticks on your shortlist are approved. Pay attention to the number of slots for which they are approved. Some modules are approved for 4 slots only, others for fully populated use.
Check the memory manufacturer's site QVL list to see which motherboards are approved.
Try to establish if there are users that have been successful in using the sticks on your shortlist and delete any that were giving trouble to others. NewEgg can be a good source for that.
Now that you have a very short shortlist, contact the Technical Support departments of both the motherboard manufacturer and the memory manufacturer and ask them to confirm or deny the compatibility of the memory modules in the quantity you need.
If both confirm compatibility, check the physical height of the modules including heatsink in relation to the intended CPU cooler. Do they fit without modding?
In general, only buy matched sets of memory sticks. There are too many different sticks with the same type number, that will cause grief when bought as four single sticks, but you limit the risk by only buying quad sets or octo sets for fully populated X79 platforms.
CAS latency is no longer important, in fact, with the finicky nature of the memory controller of the Sandy Bridge-E, it can be advantageous to choose a higher CAS latency for improved compatibility. What can be important - relatively speaking, only in single digit % performance differences - is the rated speed of the memory, 1333 or 1600 or 2133 or even 2400.
Even though the X79 platform only supports - at least officially - up to DDR3-1600, one can use XMP profiles in the BIOS to have the memory run at its rated speed of say 2133.
For my new 'Monster' I followed these steps and ended up with a fully populated 8 x 8GB octo set of G.Skill RipjawsZ F3 DDR3-2133 sticks that are running without any problems at 2190 MHz.
Hope this helps others to make the right choice of memory modules and I would request readers to submit data on their memory modules on fully populated X79 platforms to share with the community. Brand, model, size, speed and the effective running speed. Also please share your experiences in setting up the memory in your system. I for one had difficulty in setting it up correctly as documented here: Final Results

Harm. Here's the information I received from G.SKILL Technical Support, in response to my inquiry.
I think you might find it interesting. My question/s asked if they've tested a particular 64GB RAM kit http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=432 on a P9X79-PRO motherboard with an i7 3930k CPU, and if they can confirm whether that kit works with those components.
Here's their reply--
Dear Christopher Cox,
On our F3-12800CL10Q2-64GBZL webpage (http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=432), we listed the ASUS P9X79 Pro motherboard as a compatible motherboard. Any motherboard we have listed as compatible has been tested using the i7-3930K CPU. We also put the system through an in-house stress test during production before each of the product is shipped out.
So you can be sure that our memory kit will work on your system. We can confirm that F3-12800CL10Q2-64GBZL is fully compatible on a ASUS P9X79 Pro and i7-3930K system.
However, do keep in mind that out of all our 3930K CPUs, there were a few CPUs that had problems supporting full eight modules, regardless of frequency. Strangely enough, they were able to support 2400Mhz at 2 or 4 modules, which is unlikely for Sandy Bridge CPUs. So if you are having trouble with all 8 modules, but not with 4 modules, the CPU might be the cause. A rare occurrence, but would happen with any CPU with integrated memory controllers.
In terms of being finicky, the 3930K CPU simply has less tolerance when compared to the 3960X at high frequencies, such as 2400Mhz. At 1600Mhz, there should be no problems.
ASUS is not able to list all memory kit models that are compatible because they do not have all of our memory kit models. Therefore, won’t be listed on their QVL list.
Please feel free to contact us again if you have any further questions. Thank you for choosing G.Skill.
Best Regards
Tech Support Team, F.A.E.
G.SKILL International Enterprise Co., Ltd.

Upgrading iPad 2 to iOS 8 Successfully

I thought that I'd report on the method that I used to successfully upgrade my iPad 2 to iOS 8. Although the following procedure did take me longer that just kicking off the standard over the air iOS update, I always think it worth extra effort when upgrading something that I rely on every day (such as my iPad, iPhone, Macs, PCs, etc.). I think that the following procedure is very reasonable and worked well for me. However, your results may differ so follow this procedure at your own risk. Note that I also have a colleague that just did a simple over-the-air iOS 8 upgrade of his iPad 2 and it also worked great. Therefore, you certainly don;t need to go to the lengths that I do below, but I think it's worth it to get a very clean install with as little "baggage" from prior installs as possible.
I have now used my iPad 2 for two days and nights since upgrading to iOS 8 using the following method. And, I am happy to say that my iPad 2 is working better than ever (iOS 7 prior), with no crashes of any kind, good performance, good battery life, and good WiFi and Safari performance. Here are the steps that I personally took to install iOS 8. I hope they help some of you that are having problems with your iPad 2s and iOS 8 and are looking for a solution.
I'm certainly no iOS expert so I hope to see some suggested improvements to this method from the many knowledgable posters on this forum. Here goes:
Cleanup and Prepare
Clean up your iPad including removing apps you do not use, clean up your photos and videos in your camera roll, and clean up the music and other content you sync to the iOS device.
Make sure that you KNOW your AppleIDs and passwords. Make sure you understand which Apple IDs that you are using for iCloud, iMessages, and the Apple Store.
Make sure that you KNOW what your settings are for all of your other cloud/mail/calendar/contacts accounts (Google, Microsoft, DropBox, etc...).
If you are still using POP email in 2014 then understand that you are going to either lose your email or need to download it all again once your upgrade is done!
If you use Google Authenticator app or a password manager then make sure that you understand the process of restoring these apps and their settings from a separate backup if something goes wrong during your iOS restore process
Make sure that iTunes is set to encrypt your iOS backups. Doing so allows iTunes to store and restore passwords that you have stored on the iOS device.
Prepare your iOS Device
iOS Settings > iCloud > Storage & Backup > Back Up Now (this will be a secondary backup just in case)
iOS Settings > iCloud > Find My iPad > OFF
iOS Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Accounts > and Delete Gmail, Exchange, and other "cloud" accounts that you can add back later
iOS Settings > Wi-Fi > and "Forget" each remembered network
From iTunes on a Mac/PC
Make sure you have the latest iTunes version
Connect device by cable to iTunes on Mac (turn on the sidebar if not displayed)
iTunes > Sidebar > Right-click device > "Transfer Purchases"
iTunes > Sidebar > Apps > "Update All Apps"
iTunes > Sidebar > Right-click device > "Sync"
iTunes > Sidebar > Right-click device > "Back Up"
Identify iPad version from back of iPad and look up common name from Apple Site: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5452
Downloaded appropriate IPSW file directly from Apple: http://osxdaily.com/2014/09/17/ios-8-ipsw-download/
Install appropriate IPSW file to iPad by holding "Option" key when initiating a "Restore iPad" from iTunes, select downloaded .ipsw file, confirm intention to restore iPad to iOS 8: http://osxdaily.com/2010/11/23/how-to-use-ipsw-files/
WAIT ... until the firmware install is completed
WAIT ... until the iPad reboots itself and then ends on the "Hello" page
Finally, swipe the "Slide to Setup", choose your language, region, and WiFi network, enable location services
Then choose "Restore from iTunes Backup", then wait for iTunes to bring up the "Welcome to Your New iPad" screen
Choose "Restore from this Backup" (check the date and time), click "continue"
WAIT ... for restore to complete, for the device to reboot, and then for the iTunes "Sync" to complete
Swipe, then click "continue", then type in the password for the iCloud account listed
Agree to Terms and Conditions
Agree to turn on Find My iPad
Do NOT upgrade to iCloud drive yet (until Mac OS Yosemite is available and on your Macs)
iOS Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Accounts > add back your cloud/mail/calendar/contacts accounts (Google, Microsoft, etc...)
Enjoy your very clean iOS device
LASTLY ... Go to iOS Settings and go through nearly every setting to get familiar with the features of your iOS device. If you find a setting that you don't understand then Google it. If you don't need a feature, then disable it for better security and better battery life.

Tim Snoots wrote:
I thought that I'd report on the method that I used to successfully upgrade my iPad 2 to iOS 8.
It's always excellent to hear a successful update account, for an iPad 2 with iOS 8 ... since many people who have been posting think this is impossible. From accounts like yours and the many others I've heard, it's entirely possible, if one does it the right way!
When someone is having trouble, though, after having already done the upgrade, I would recommend doing the following ...
Follow this procedure for a Troubleshooting Methodology ... basically reset to factory default condition -BUT- be sure to do the following methodically and also to follow the part with Apple Support!
First you want to make sure you have several backups of your data and done with a couple of "different" sources. Be sure to understand what data is backed up and what is NOT on iCloud Backup and iTunes Backup. Use a variety of methods for backup ... you might check into Dropbox, in addition to your Apple options.
Then turn off your desktop anti-virus software when using iTunes for this reset to factory default. After you do that reset, then leave your iPad in its factory default state and see how it operates then. If you encounter any problems in that factory default state, then take it to Apple Support, and let them know that you have just reset it to that state with iTunes and have not put any of your data back on and it is operating in this fashion (whatever the problem is) in that pristine state. Make sure you keep that trouble ticket number, because if it has to be escalated through Apple Support, you're going to find all communications tied in with that number. If the lower level help isn't able to help you, then escalate it to a higher level to examine the problem. Keep at it with that trouble ticket number until Apple Support arrives at a solution to that problem. Be methodical and keep at it.
On the other hand, if everything is okay with the factory default condition, then restore your backup. Some people have discovered that the problem resides in the apps or something in the restored backup. If that's the case, then it's going to be trying and difficult to find out which developer's app is causing you the problem. And ... it's true ... that a developer not following Apple's instructions and guidelines for his app can CAUSE YOU TROUBLE. This kind of thing does happen from developers, especially when a new system upgrade comes out, because some developers ignore what Apple tells them about changes coming, and what they do BREAKS SOMETHING.
This is a troubleshooting methodology that you are going through. See it through to the end.
Choosing an iOS Backup Method (Should I Use iTunes or iCloud to back up ...)
https://support.apple.com/kb/HT5262
Back up and Restore your iOS Device with iCloud or iTunes
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1766
iTunes: About iOS Backups
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4946
Create and Delete iPhone, iPad and iPod Touch Backups in iTunes
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4946
iOS: Troubleshooting Encrypted Backups
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS5162
Use iTunes to Restore your iOS Device to Factory Settings
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1414

Questions about OC and upgrading my 790FX-GD70

Hey Guys,
So Ive had this board for a while now (790FX-GD70) and am looking to throw some new parts on it, I want to throw the 1100T CPU on there (Unless MSI wisens up and enables AM3+ like they did for other boards) and was to throw in some 1600 or 1800 ram, Ive got a couple concerns though.
1. Ive never updated the bios on thsi board (I think its 3.04), frankly Im not a huge fan of doing it and avoid it unless I absolutely have to, will I need to update the bios to throw in a thuban?
2. The boards specs say that the board supports 1600/1800 member but only OC'd, so that means I need to OC the FSB right? But Im not sure how much overclocking this boards FSB can actually handle, if Im not mistaken for 1600 it will need to be 2400-2600 and even higher for 1800 memory. Can the board handle it? Will I have some major FSB heat issues?
2a. What do I need to overclock? Do I need to increase the bus speed or the fsb multiplier? What voltage do I need to set for the FSB at thoes speeds?
2b. Bus speed affects cpu clock as wel ldoesnt it? so if I boost the bus then do I have to throttle back the multiplier?
My goal is to have the 1100t running at around 4gz and the memory will either be 1600 or 1800, it depends what I find with good timings at a decent price.
Thanks guys!

The Guide will come in handy. I have an 790FX-GD70 that I have done plenty of OC settings with my original Phenom II X3 720BE, and now my X6 1090T.
Overclocking is a trial and error project. When you get a better understanding about the effects of Overclocking you will learn that it's about stability with an overclock, and not setting records. Well.. unless record setting is a part you want to play with. Stability.. there are programs to test you overclock. Many of them, some available here in downloads. Prime, Futuremark, OCCT.. choices to help you test for stability. Play safe, step by step.. that way you avoid damaging your system. There are a lot of Overclock examples on the net. Search the board and overclock. The board is now a couple of years old.. but it was a hot.. overclock board. You can find it even with your CPU as examples to learn from.
Here's one for you.. you'll learn! You stated 1600-1800 memory speeds. OK, it's an overclock. But, the question is? Do you get a gain? Is 1800 really quicker than 1333? The number is bigger. 1600, or 1800 is bigger than 1333, or 1066. So, it must mean it's better and faster, right? Well.... if you compare reads and writes between 1333 and 1600 the gain is little or none. There are different CPU crunch uses. Like burning video or playing a game. Different demands, different setting results. The AM3 CPU is made for 1333. In some Overclocks because of timings... 1066 could offers quicker results than 1600. It's trial and tests. Not just CPU but Memory and more make an Overclock. Welcome to Overclocking. It's fun and done within limits... you will get more out of what you have. Me.. my best Overclock to date? Results I see from my 790FX-GD70? I have run 3.8 stable... and my SSD's are a better OC than tweaking my speeds. Both together... I have amid OC and am very happy.
Good Luck

1333 or 1600 worth extra 360 $?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for