16-35 L USM lens and struggling with sharp focus and depth of field.

I just purchased the 16-35 L lens after reading all the reviews. I was previoulsy using the 24-70mm and was happy with the results. I am new to the Canon Mark 5D III and the new wide angle lens. I took pictures yesterday for over two hours and came back with no sharp images and no depth of field even when shooting at F/22. I zoomed in or moved close to my subjects expecting the images to be tack sharp but I am extremely disappointed. Not ONE of my pictures were tack sharp. What am I doing wrong? Are there correct settings for close-ups, landscapes and portraits with this lens? At F/22 I shoot 1/3 of the way into the picture expecting that everything in front and behind will be sharp. Not so. I am very frustrated as a newcomer to this camera. Please advise or guide me to a great source to learn.
thank you
Solved!
Go to Solution.

It'd really help to see an example, it's hard to guess without seeing it.
You shouldn't have to stop down to f/22 to get a large DoF at 16mm. In fact, part of what you might be seeing is softness from diffraction at that aperture. Try f/8, the DoF is actually quite wide at that aperture.
What shutter speeds are you at? Yes, you can get away with much slower speeds with UWA, but it can still soften images.
Lastly, I've never been able to get results out of an UWA like I can with longer lenses or a prime. I can get good results, and they clean up quite nicely in post, but viewing untouched photos at 100% it's never sharp like a good prime, or even a good tele really. So I don't know what you're expecting out of it. It usually doesn't matter since UWA are used for larger subject matter than the other lenses... but that has been my experience.

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I have a problem with my iphone 5s. recording a vid using back lens and no sound but on the rear lens there is a clear voice.. anyone with any answers???

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Oracle Learning Management Practitioner
Tel: 27 (21) 403 3069
Fax: 27 (21) 403 3333
www.parliament.gov.za
>>> RodWard <[email protected]> 2/26/2014 11:20 AM >>>
Re: Still struggling with Captivate 6, Oracle LMS and SCORM 2004
created by RodWard in Quizzing/LMS - View the full discussion
This sounds like you have some major issue in this course project file.
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Struggling with one iTunes 10 Library and two kids

I'm struggling with iTunes 10 and the music Library. My two kids both have ipod touches, and each wants a different subset of whats in the library. Whats the best way to manage this when each kid wants to add/delete music?
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Jon,
You should be able to do what you want. However, keep in mind these caveats, by design, the iphone will sync itunes content with ONE computer at a time. Thus, if you start syncing such content to your wife's phone from your account if you decide to switch to her account, all itunes content on her phone will first be erased & then replaced with the content from her account. You can sync as many devices as you want to the same itunes account, there is no limit. So yes, you can sync itunes content from your account to your wife's phone.
First, disable auto sync, under preferences, in both your accounts.
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Since you can sync as many devices as you want to the same itunes account, itunes will keep everything straight by device. Thus, once you set things up, from that point on itunes will recognize what device is what & sync accordingly.

Lightroom 5.6 / CR 8.6 not recognizing my Canon 16-35mm f4 IS USM lens

I have Lightroom 5.6, Camera Raw 8.6.
I'm using a Canon 5D Mark 3.   I had a Canon EF 16-35 f2.8 USM for years. Under Lens Corrections / Profile I would use the Auto Setup and LR would detect the lens automatically.
I switched to the EF 16-35 f4 IS USM recently, even with LR 5.6 and Camera Raw 8.6 the Auto Setup doesn't recognize the new lens.    I manually select Canon, then within the model drop down list - the EF 16-35 f4 IS USM does indeed show up.
I checked the EXIF data - it's listed as "EF16-35 f/4L IS USM" (notice the lack of space between the EF and 16.   However the profile is listed as "Canon 16-35 mm f/4 IS USM" (notice the space between 16-35 and mm).   Looking at the drop down list, this appears to be the ONLY lens listed with a space between the focal length and mm.
Not sure what the source of the mismatch is here.   I'm trying to figure out how to find the Lens ID in the EXIF info.
Ideas, suggestions?

If LR supports the lens natively then manually selecting the lens and doing a Save New Lens Profile Defaults shouldn't be necessary as Auto should work. Rikk, since your LR screenshot says Custom instead of Auto I expect that you're seeing the same thing as the OP and may have already set your lens profile defaults, manually or having to select a lens profile manually seems less odd that it does to the OP.
In any case, I think there are two problems, or perhaps two different manifestations of the same problem:
1) Looking at the EXIFTool LensInfo tag list the Lens ID is apparently 507 for this lens, but the Lens ID in the lens profile file from Adobe is 251 which corresponds to a Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM lens:
http://www.sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/TagNames/Canon.html#LensType
It does not seem to be enough to change the 251 to 507 in a copy of the LCP file and put that file in the User's lens profile area. I did this and Auto still doesn't work, although the 507 copy of the profile is found if I choose Custom and pick Canon. Without the LensID = 507 lens profile existing, Custom / Canon chooses the 16-35 f/2.8 lens.
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Lightroom not reading correct data for Lens and Camera Serial Number

Hi you all.
Recently got Lightroom, and I'm so impressed - I never imagined image organizing and adjustment could be this easy and at the same time very advanced.
I have a problem, however. Lightroom (and Adobe Bridge, too) does not correctly read the EXIF data of Lens type and Camera Serial Number.
The first ~50 images I took and imported turned out correctly and displayed my serial number and lens (18-55 mm Canon) inside Lightroom.
But now, whenever I import photos into Lightroom or view them with Bridge, they all display "Unknown Lens" and "Unknown Camera Serial Number".
At first I thought that maybe the camera didn't correctly record this data on to the photos anymore for some reason, but a comparison using EXIFToolGUI shows that the metadata is EXACTLY the same as in the photos that display this info in Lightroom correctly.
I have not done any changes to either my camera (Canon EOS-350D / Digitial Rebel XT) or lens (the kit lens, 18-55 mm Canon).
It seems that for some reason, Lightroom has stopped reading these two fields of metadata - all the other fields, such as aperture and shutter speed, all display correctly.
I also tried to reimport the photos into Lightroom, but it didn't help. Neither did "Synchronize Folder" -> "Scan for metadata updates".
What should I do? I'd like my lens information do display correctly, as I'll buy a new lens soon.
I have attached one of the photos that Lightroom doesn't read the data correctly from. Try importing it into your Lightroom, and see if how the info displays.
Thanks in advance.

Are these jpgs or RAW? I have only edited metadata on jpgs.
It looks like Vista's import stripped out all the makernotes. I didn't look at your file but that seems to be what happened. Be warned, Photoshop CS2 also strips out makernotes!
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What to do... You probably can't put back all of the makernotes, so what to do to get the lens information in. I don't know if putting back in the makernote LensType would trigger LR to reconsider its lens information. I don't know. If it had a real lens name, my guess would be no because it would have an XMP::Lens field which would override. But maybe unknown lens doesn't have this field and it would re-read the makernotes.
The other solution is to forget about makernotes for these images and put the exact text you want into XMP::Lens. I think that's the "easy" way.
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I would do this with one file first. If the lens shows up after you read the new metadata into LR, you know you have it right.
Note, exiftool can write backup files for each file. This makes too much of a mess for me. I prefer to copy the directory first (I have copies anyway, I just have to make sure the backups are up to date).
Good luck! I'm struggling with a similar situation where the same lens used by two different cameras is coming out with a different name. I need to go back and "fix" the names in the images already imported, and then develop my procedure for setting a single unique name before I load new images into LR. Not too much of a problem because I'm loading in GPS information anyway... What's another call to exiftool...
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Aperture incorrectly lists Canon EF400mm f/2.8L IS USM lens

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I then did some examining in my Aperture library and was able to determine that this problem began occuring somewhere between August 14th 2011 (lens labelled correctly) and September 23rd 2011 (lens labelled incorrectly). I suspect there was a software update to Aperture around that time. Further examination shows that on August 14th 2011 and previously Aperture would list the lenses without the manufacturer. While from September 23rd 2011 and on Aperture began listing the lenses with the manufacturer listed.
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From what I gather it's the only lens that Aperture is listing incorrectly. It's not a big deal, but it really should be a complicated fix for the Aperture team either.
There are quite a few lenses listed incorrectly - mine do not show at all - "unknown lens".
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L Lens and EOS Rebel T3i body

I've been asking so many questions on here, haha.
But I'm here with another question. So I've somewhat been researching on the net about using L lens with a t3i and quite a handful of people are saying that they wouldn't work well together? So L lens aren't recommended for EOS Rebel bodies? Can someone explain this to me please.
I just recently bought the T3i and I just want a good lens. Preferably for landscape photos. I also take some sports, low light, and portrait photos.
Suggestions for landscape and all around photography lens would be great (:
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Often for landscape photography people want to use a wide angle lens. Not always, there aren't any rules that say you can't use something else. I'm just sayin' it's typically the first thing that comes to mind
One of the best wide angles you can get for use on a T3i is the Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM. It is not an "L" but that doesn't matter.
I suspect what you have been told about using an L-series lens is due to your camera's crop factor, as several other responses have suggested. L-series will work just fine on your camera, but all L-series lenses are "full frame" designs, by definition. As a result, none of the L's will be particularly wide angle on your camera. So when people hear "landscape", they suggest something other than an L-series.
You have four different stated purposes: landscape, sports, low light and portraiture. The whole point of a DSLR such as your T3i is to be able to interchange lenses, to be able to adapt the camera for use in different situations. So I would suggest not to try to do it all with one lens, but to look at several lenses (some of which are Ls), which ultimately should give you better results. For example....
Wide angle landscape: EF-S 10-22mm.
Sports: 70-200/4, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8, 70-200/2.8L IS II, 100-400L IS, 300/4L IS.
Low light: 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS, 50/1.4, 50/1.8 II, 85/1.8.
Portraiture (candid): 50/1.4, 85/1.8.
Portraiture (studio): EF-S 15-85 IS, EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L, 24-70/4 IS , 24-70/2.8L II.
Portraiture (environmental): 20/2.8, 24/2.8 IS, 28/1.8, 35/2 IS.
General purpose "walk-around" lens: EF-S 15-85 IS... or, depending upon what other lenses you get, EF-S 17-55/2.8 IS, or EF 28-135 IS, 24-105L IS, 24-70/4L IS, 24-70/2.8L II.
There are lots of different ways to put together a lens kit. For example, maybe you just don't need as wide a view as the 10-22mm for your landscape photography. If so, instead you might choose the EF-S 15-85mm as wide enough and because it can double as a walkaround lens and can even be useful for some portraiture.
A "minimal" kit I often carry around with a crop camera is: 10-22mm, 28-135 IS, 300/4 IS w/1.4X teleconverter, and a Tamron 60/2.0 macro/portrait.
When I'm shooting sports, which I mostly do with crop sensor cameras, I usually carry: 10-22mm and 24-70/2.8, but my most used lenses are 70-200/2.8 IS and 300/4 IS. (In certain situations I also use 70-200/4 IS and 300/2.8 IS.)
For portraiture with a crop sensor camera, my favorite lenses are: 28/1.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 and 135/2. Especially the 50mm and 85mm.
Your camera can use all EF-S and EF lenses, including all L-series. But just because a lens will fit and work doesn't mean it's the best choice for your purposes. In some cases buying a full frame capable lens for your camera will be wasteful.... FF lenses can be bigger, heavier and more expensive... yet not really give you any better performance, maybe even give less. For example, a 16-35/2.8L II is a wonderful lens on a FF camera, but makes little sense to buy for use on a crop camera. For less money you can either get a lens that's truly wide (EF-S 10-22mm), or a lens that offers slightly wider range of focal lengths and has IS (EF-S 17-55/2.8 IS).
Depth of field actually is not directly effected by different camera sensor sizes. What changes depth of field are: lens focal length, lens aperture, and distance to subject. If you are looking for shallow depth of field (blurring down a background for a portrait, for example), you need a large aperture and longer focal length... and the closer you are to the subject the more shallow depth of field will be. If, on the other hand, you want a lot of depth of field ( for a landscape shot, for example), you want to use a smaller aperture and a shorter focal length.... and the farther you are from the subject (within reason), the deeper depth of field will be.
Now where crop sensor vs full frame does come into effect is that in order to get the same subject framing with a crop sensor we need to stand farther away with any given focal length, or if shooting from the same distance will use a shorter focal length. In either case, the result is "less" depth of field, but it is an indirect result of the different sensor size.
Have fun shopping and learning your new camera!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Canon T3i + EF 70-200mm f/4 L IS USM Lens?

I am a young photographer who currently owns the T3i Costco kit (Comes with the 18-55 IS II and 55-250 IS II). I am very interested in buying the EF 70-200 f/4 L IS USM lens, because I love doing up-close photos. Would the lens work well with the T3i, and would it be any better than the 55-250 IS II?
Thanks,
WolfheartFilms (Caleb)

There are a few generalizations that most photographers agree on where it comes to the engineering of lenses. Heavier lenses typically contain more glass and therefore are engineered to a higher level of precision. Another one is, a shorter zoom range is easier to control for optical aberrations over its entire range than a lens of similar build quality over a longer zoom range".
So, yeah, the 70-200mm f/4L is better controled, optically, over its entire range than the more far reaching 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II but as cicopo has pointed out, you lose a bit of range on both ends in return.
Edited to add: I will not suggest that it is preferable to execute quality post-processing in response to less than desired results, but it is considered entirely acceptable. I spent 5 years photographing and printing images with my 35mm camera equipped with a 50mm lens. I experimented constantly in the darkroom with paper offering differing levels of contrast, dodging and burning images, and in general creating my images. No one ever suggested that my prints were anything less than genuine. Make your own art.

Is anybody else struggling with an intermittent connection when using the Magic Mouse/Trackpad ONLY on Boot Camp?

Hi,
I've seen thousands of posts about Bluetooth connection issues and interference and stutter/lag for both the Magic Mouse and Trackpad (affecting both Mac OS X and Windows under Boot Camp) but my problem is different.
To summarise my setup, I use:
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But during usage, the cursor stutters/lags frequently, and tap to click (when enabled) seems to get triggered by mistake all the time (even when I'm not touching the Trackpad or even at the computer, clicks get registered).
The Wireless Keyboard is perfect, and works well 5 metres from the machine. The Mouse and Trackpad, though, don't even work reliably when they are 6 inches from the machine. The built-in trackpad on the laptop works perfectly too, in Windows and Mac.
I spent a week assuming I was suffering from Bluetooth interference, so I tried:
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- disabling wifi
All of these adjustments made minor differences to how good/bad the Trackpad was, but none came close to fixing the problem or making it work as smoothly as under Mac OS X. It was only after doing all of this that I realised perhaps it was just a Apple driver for Windows issue, so I booted into Mac OS X and tested everything out, and sure enough, it's all perfect. But back into Windows, the Trackpad doesn't work reliably at all.
Obviously, the hardware is not at fault, and I assume the signal strength doesn't vary between operating system (why would it?) so I'm left believing this must be a driver issue. The TrackPad and Magic Mouse drivers have been out for a couple of years, so I'm surprised they can still be this bad. I tried both the latest driver from Boot Camp 4.0 (3.2.0.0) for the Trackpad, and also the older one from Boot Camp 3.2 (3.1.0.7) and both are equally bad for me.
So my question is: has anybody else struggled with using the Trackpad (or Magic Mouse) with Boot Camp 4.0 and Windows 7 64-bit, whilst finding it to be perfect under Mac OS? I haven't found many posts complaining about the Windows driver, which is why I assumed it was an interference issue. But I'm almost sure it isn't, having spent 2 weeks investigating.
Any thoughts/suggestions/answers much appreciated!
Kyle

SOLVED!
After much testing, I have found the cause of lagging/jumpiness on the Bluetooth Magic Mouse and Magic TrackPad in Boot Camp. Hopefully this will help others:
The drivers for the Broadcom 802.11n Wireless Adapter have a setting called "Bluetooth Collaboration" that is Disabled by default. Enabling this option removes the problem instantly. My Magic Trackpad now works flawlessly, even if I stand 6 metres from the machine. It now works just as well as under Mac OS. The setting can be found under:
Control Panel > Device Manager > Network Adapters > Broadcom 802.11n Network Adapter (right click and choose "Properties". Under the "Advanced" tab, highlight the setting named "Bluetooth Collaboration", then change it to Enable. Then click OK.
I narrowed the problem down to the wireless card by disabling ALL startup services and processes for Windows, then re-enabling one by one. As soon as I enabled the Windows Wireless Service, the problem came back. Similarly, disabling the Wireless Card inside the Network and Sharing Center (or Device Manager) removes the problem. This led me to believe it must be a driver issue with the wireless card, since the problem didn't occur with the Magic TrackPad under Mac OS, or on my mother's Windows 7 64-bit computer. So when I went into the Driver Properties to check for an update, I found this setting about Bluetooth Collaboration.
I really hope this helps others trying to use Bluetooth devices under Boot Camp. All Apple notebooks use the Broadcom card (and have done for years), so this driver is installed for almost anybody using Boot Camp on an Apple notebook. I'd assume this problem would affect anybody using Boot Camp + wifi + a Bluetooth device.
Cheers

16-35 L USM lens and struggling with sharp focus and depth of field.

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