2.3 ghz G5 DP or 1.33 ghz G4 DP - which is more reliable

Which is more reliable for use as a small email server ? The G5 model has heat pipes making the shelf life shorter.
I have 2 single processor 1ghz G4s that haven't quit working since day 1.

I'd go with the G5 on the basis that the G4 has to be, what, 7 years old now? Pure mechanical wear on the drives and the power supply in particular mean you're probably living on borrowed time.
That's not to say the G4 is going to break, though, and you could certainly put a new drive in it to reset that particular counter. Given that you have two of them you could even use the other as a spare, depending on what else it's doing.

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Have installed 10.10 on my iMac (mid 2007) 2.4 GHz 2Gb memory which has slowed to a crawl

have installed 10.10 on my iMac (mid 2007) 2.4 GHz me 2 GB which has slowed to a crawl

Try these in order testing your system after each to see if it's back to normal:
1. a. Resetting your Mac's PRAM and NVRAM
    b. Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)
2. Restart the computer in Safe Mode, then restart again, normally. If this doesn't help, then:
     Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the
     COMMAND and R keys until the Utilities menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the
     computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager
     screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
3. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.
4. Reinstall Yosemite: Reboot from the Recovery HD. Select Reinstall OS X from the Utilities menu, and click on the Continue button.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible
            because it is three times faster than wireless.
5. Reinstall Yosemite from Scratch:
Be sure you backup your files to an external drive or second internal drive because the following procedure will remove everything from the hard drive.
How to Clean Install OS X Yosemite
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible
            because it is three times faster than wireless.

Adobe CS3 Upgrade on 2.4 GHz MacBook Pro

I am planning to purchase the new generation MacBook Pro in about a month.
My question is about Adobe CS3. I currently use CS2 on an older G4 PowerBook because I could not deal with the performance dip on the older MacBook Pro (1.83 GHz with 512MB RAM). So I have a licensed copy of CS2 for PPC. If I buy the Upgrade Version of CS3 at a much reduced price, will the transition to Universal work on a MacBook Pro? No more Rosetta? Performance problems solved?
I realize Rosetta probably struggled with my previous MacBook's speed and lack of RAM. But I don't want to go through that hair-pulling again. I don't get into that advanced PhotoShop, etc. of CS3 but I'm willing to upgrade just to have it Universal and be more reliable. And, of course, I'd like to save the $800 on having to buy the Full Version of the software.
Thanks everyone for your feedback.
By the way, I had the same performance issue with MS Office for Mac. Almost 30 seconds to open Word! Anyone know if this becomes a non-issue with newer Macbook Pros??
1.8 PowerPC G5 3GB DDR SDRAM Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Your problem your your previous MBP was simply RAM. 512MB when trying to use CS2 products is simply insanity. If you opt for a new MBP with the standard 2GB, better still with an upgrade to 4GB, then CS3 will perform extremely well. RAM us hugely important and one of the biggest bottlenecks in today's hardware and software requirements.

Adding RAM to 1.6 GHz G5

I just finished a rather strange process of adding RAM to my G5 which I thought I would share, in case it helps others:
First of all, I have a 1.6 GHz CPU machine, which has 4 DIMM slots. According to the Setup Guide, since there are only 4 slots (not 8), you need to use 333 MHz, PC2700 DIMMs (not 400 MHz, PC3200 DIMMs).
When I first got my G5, it came with 256 MB of RAM (2 x 128 MB 333 MHz, PC2700). About a year ago, I added 512 MB (2 x 256 MB 333 MHz, PC2700), bringing the total up to 768 MB. This addition went smoothly, without any problems.
Recently, I decided to replace the original 256 MB of RAM, with two more 256 MB modules, bringing the total up to 1.5 GB, so I ordered "1 GB DDR400 PC3200 2x512 DIMMS" (Part # M9653G/A) directly from Apple. Note that the RAM Apple currently sells is 400 MHz, PC3200, not 333 MHz, PC2700. In fact, before placing the order online, I called Apple to ask about this, and the person I talked to assured me that this would not be a problem, and that my 1.6 GHz would work with the 400 MHz, PC3200, despite what the manual says, so I ordered them.
Upon receipt, I removed the original pieces, installed the new ones, and my G5 would not acknowledge their presence. It said I only had 512 MB. I called Apple to report the problem, and they suspected it was simply faulty RAM, so they sent replacements. When I got them, I installed them, and got the same results. I called Apple to tell them it still wasn't working, and they had no idea why. Once again, I pointed out that they were sending me 400 MHz, PC3200, not 333 MHz, PC2700, and they still insisted that this was not the problem, but I started to suspect even more that it was, especially after trying to upgrade twice.
In order to test this theory, I ordered RAM from MacMall. This time I ordered 1 GB, in the form of 2 x 512 MB, 333 MHz, PC2700 (made by Kingston, Manufacturer Part No. KTA-G5333/1G). When I received these, I moved the original replacement RAM up into the top two slots, where the original ones were, and placed the two new ones in the bottom two slots. When I tried to turn the computer back on, it wouldn't. The light on the front would flash once, then pause, then flash once again, then pause, etc. When I checked the manual's troubleshooting section, it described what two, three, four, and 5 or 6 flashes meant, but not one. URGH!
At this point, I had no idea what was wrong, so I took my G5 to my local Apple store to ask them. The guy there had the idea of putting one of the original replacement RAM in one of the two top slots, and one of the new replacement RAM in the other top slot. Then he put one of the original ones in one of the two bottom slots, and one of the new ones in the other bottom slot. Believe it or not, not only did the computer turn back on, but it also recognized the new total of 1.5 GB of RAM!!!
This was such a strange process that I thought I would share it, in case someone is also currently going through this process, or wants to in the future.
Hope this helps, and I also hope I've made it clear exactly what happened. If anything isn't clear, please let me know, and I'll try again.
Trent
Power Mac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.4)

PC3200 is fine for that system. The problem was that you were installing the RAM in the wrong slots.
The RAM must be installed in matched pairs, one in the top, one in the bottom, working out from the middlemost pair.
Viewed from the side
======== Slot J14
======== Slot J12
======== Slot J11
======== Slot J13
So, one pair of identical parts goes in J11/J12, and another pair goes in J13/J14. Doesn't matter if the bigger pair is first or second.
This wasn't in the manual for your Mac?
Quad G5 2.5Ghz 4.5GB 2x250G, PB 15" 1.5Ghz,80G,1.5G Mac OS X (10.4.4)

Airport express different names for 2.4 GHz and 5.0 GHz channels??

I have a airport express router and I recently purchased a smart bluray player. When I try to connect my bluray player to my wireless network it shows both the 2.4 and 5 GHz channels which have the same SSID. I select the 5 GHz channel, connect to it and after connected it shows that I'm connected to the 2.4 GHz channel and my bluray player tells me that it would work better on a 5 GHz network. Is there anyway to give each channel a different name/SSID so that I can definitely only connect to the 5 GHz channel???

Is there anyway to give each channel a different name/SSID so that I can definitely only connect to the 5 GHz channel???
Yes, assuming that you are running the Lion or Mountain Lion operating system on your Mac.....
Open Macintosh HD > Applications > Utilities > AirPort Utiliity
Click on the AirPort Express icon, then click Edit
Click the Wireless tab at the top of the window
Click the Wireless Options button near the bottom of the window
Enter a check mark next to 5 GHz name and this will assign the same SSID with "5 GHz" added the name.
Click Save, then click Update and allow a full minute for the AirPort Express to restart
However.....unless the Blu-Ray player is quite close the AirPort Express, or it has direct line of sight with the AirPort Express, the 2.4 GHz band will likely provide both a stronger and faster signal.
If the Blu-Ray player is connecting at 2.4 GHz now, it is probably thinking that 2.4 GHz is the stronger and also possibly faster signal.
This is because 5 GHz signals are much weaker than 2.4 GHz signals, and as a result, the 5 GHz signals are absorbed much more quickly by any obstructions like walls, ceilings, or heavy furniture, etc. in the signal path.
The bottom line....connecting at 5 GHz does not necessarily provide a better connection....but you can give it try to see if you notice any improvement.
If you don't mind spending 4-5 dollars for a good WiFI utility like WiFi Explorer, which will display the actual Signal to Noise ratio of the wireless signal, and you want to go at this a bit more scientifically, post back for more info.

Which is a better buy for college a non-retina display 15 inch macbook pro with a 2.6ghz processor or a 2.9 ghz 13 inch non retina max specs macbook pro both with 8 gb of ram will be using to write papers basically for general use im a Science major

im a college student im studying to be a vet tech and i want this computer too last which a more sound investment the non retina macook pro 15 inch with these specs:2.6 ghz 1 tb ata hd with 8 gb of ram or a maxspec 13 inch mac book pro: 2.9 ghz 1Tb and 8gb of ram any help is appreciated thank you

Hi,
I am a researcher so I store a lot of papers, data, and use numerical software. I have had a 17inch high spec macbook pro for over a year now. I find that apart from the large screen, it was unnecessary to get the high specs. This is why. Firstly, the hard drive is easy to replace and upgrade, apple charge a lot for their own ones. Secondly, the ram in my one was upgradable (which i didnt know when i bought it) and i since upgraded to 16gigs from 8 and its amazing. Thirdly, the newer macbook pros run hotter than the previous ones.
The retina is overrated and the programs for retina need more memory and processing power, so what you find is that your hard drive will get taken over sooner, your mac will run hotter, and battery life lower.
I would say to you, dont worry about the processor speed, the normal speed offered is perfect, more than that is not necessary unless you are running highly demanding apps, the mac will run hotter too. Dont bother getting a large hard drive in the macbook. Get a flash SSD drive, and buy a good portable 2tb HD, like a WD one, and use that to store as much of your work as possible. I believe apple started soldering their ram cards to the motherboard or something so that people cant upgrade. Check in advance and see if the macbook you want can be ram upgradable, then get a lower ram model and buy good 8gb ram cards to make 16gig. Very very easy to install them, took me about two minutes to do mine, it will be much cheaper.
If I think of anything else i will post back. Dont forget to install GFX card status too and use integrated only when on battery, i get up to ten hours of battery life without wifi, around 8 with wifi.
edit. I forgot to mention that if you buy your mac and try to open it you will void the warranty.

Fios Gateway 5 GHz Wireless radio unstable

The Fios Gateway 5 GHz Wireless radio is unstable. This is my second Fios Gateway router and I'm having the same problem. The 5 GHz signal is very weak. There a spots where the signal is unavailable yet the 2.4 GHz. I even installed aWi-Fi range extender (the one Verizon sells) but the signal did not improve I'm thinking that the Fios Gateway Wi-Fi radios are crap. I think the best way to proceed is to buy a solid wireless router and shutoff the Fios Gateway wireless radios. Can anyone recommend a wireless router with a usable 5 GHz radio? I think a commercial Wi-Fi router is the best way to go. Thank you. I have tried to get Verizon to come out and check my Verizon equipment but that is impossible. Notice that when you make an service appointment, Verizon calls every morning and if you don't push the right button, they CANCEL your service call. This is something Congress needs to legislate - SERVICE. I'm thinking of going back to Comcast.

I have a WiFi extender in line of sight of the Fios Gateway router and the 5GHz channel is still unstable. At this point I have to assume I can't use the 5GHz channel so I will return the Fios Gateway router rather than pay the monthly fee for an inferior router. This router is slow even for wired access. For whatever reason the Fios Gateway routers are not compatible with my Verizon equipment. My ActionTec is faster and more reliable. I will also get the most powerful 2.4GHz wireless router and use that as a separate wireless access point instead of the wireless radios in the Verizon routers. I can't imagine busineses putting up with these problems when it comes to 5GHz channels. Thanks.Ed

1.5GHz upper case on a 1.67 GHz?

Dear Apple Discussions,
the upper case for my 1.67 GHz (High Res.) PowerBook G4 has some cosmetic damage. I was wondering if I could replace it with the upper case of a 1.5 GHz PowerBook G4?
The main concern I have is in regards to the trackpad not working since I vaguely remember reading Apple changed manufacturers (which is why the third party iScroll would not work on my machine).
Any thoughts would be appreciated

The high-res PowerBook G4 1.67GHz utilizes a different top case according to a dealer on eBay that specializes in Mac parts. I bought something from him recently and asked him about the top cases for the PowerBooks and he says that the 1.67GHz top case has different circuitry.
The top case for the 1.5GHz/1.67GHz (models A1106) are interchangeable. I bought one of these for my 1.5GHz that I'm typing from right now. But these can't be used on the high-res 1.67GHz (and can't be used on earlier 1.5GHz or previous models). This is the info I have:
A1106 (1.5GHz/1.67GHz)
Apple Part No. 922-6920, Assembly No. 620-3030
A1138 (1.67GHz HR DLSD)
Apple Part No. 922-6920, Assembly No. 620-3273
Message was edited by: Pismo 900
Also, I found this "more reliable" info from iFixIt.com who also points out that there are two different case parts for the two machines, though the part no. is different.
1.67GHz A1106
[http://www.ifixit.com/PowerBook-Parts/G4-Aluminum-15-Inch-1-5-1-67-GHz-Upper-Ca se/IF154-058]
1.67GHz A1138
[http://www.ifixit.com/PowerBook-Parts/G4-Aluminum-15-Inch-1-67-GHz-HR-Upper-Cas e/IF164-005]
Message was edited by: Pismo 900
Also, just to note, the keyboards are different as well. This one I learned first-hand after buying a brand new keyboard for my 15-incher and it belonged to the high-res 1.67GHz model, to my dismay. (The seller noted the wrong part no.-- he said it was for the 1.5GHz/1.67GHz models, and when I cross referenced that part no. on Google, I found it belonged to the high-res 1.67GHz)

Which one...Dual 2 or 2.7 GHz?

Help me pick, please.
I have at home a Dual 2 GHz G5 with 3.5 GB and been pleased with it.
When my Mac at work was replaced with the Mac Pro (sweet!), I was given my old computer...a Dual 2.7 GHz G5 with 4 GB, without hard drives.
Should I move my hard drives and memory from the 2 GHz to the 2.7 GHz? Or, should I leave things the way they are and move on? Maybe just move some memory over?
Is the difference in power that much? I'm a graphic designer and bring work home often.
Thanks!

If you intend to keep both system, I would move the RAM and hard drive(s) to the faster Power Mac and have the slower one as a backup. Note: The last line of +dual core+ Power Mac G5 had different RAM than the earlier models.
If you intend to sell one of them, you may want to consider keeping the 2 GHz model and selling the 2.7 GHz model. Because of the liquid cooling system on the high-end model, the slower one may be more reliable long-term.
The 2.7 GHz Power Mac obviously has higher clock speed, but it may also have a better video card inside. But you can move that component to the slower Power Mac, assuming the 2.0 GHz Power Mac is not from the last line of Power Macs with the +dual core+ CPU and +PCI express+ slots. Those last ones had different video cards than the earlier models.

Licensing Oracle Database SE for processor Intel 2670v2 10 cores 2.5 Ghz

Hello,
I have read and understood the Oracle licensing terms and I'm aware of the limitations SE puts on the server it is installed to. Still I need someone to approve my initial understanding.
Can I install Oracle Database SE on a system with 2 processors (Intel 2670v2 10 cores 2.5 Ghz each)?

Which version of Standard edition you are using ?
Oracle Database Standard Edition One
Or Oracle Database Standard Edition
Each one is difference than the other one, but regarding to what i know about Oracle SE License you should care about Maximum socket not Core and you check how much socket for each one :
http://www.oracle.com/us/products/database/standard-edition-one/comparisons/index.html
For Example :
SE ONE
Total # of Processors: 2
Total # of Cores: 8
SE
Total # of Processors: 4
Total # of Cores: 24
there is thread in some where here discuss this you can search on it here.

(1.4 GHz & 4GB) vs (1.5 GHz & 2GB)

Hi Guys,
Which is more performance than the other?
Lenovo Yoga 11S 59-377354 | Intel Core i3 3229Y - 1.4 GHz | 4GB
VS
Lenovo Yoga 11S 59-394431 | Intel Core i3 4020Y - 1.5 GHz | 2GB
Solved!
Go to Solution.

hi r00tsecurity,
Looking at these benchmarks:
- Intel Core i3 3229Y - 1.4 GHz
- Intel Core i3 4020Y - 1.5 GHz
- Intel Core i3 4020Y vs 3229Y
The Core i3-4020Y (Haswell) beats its Ivy Bridge counterpart by a few notch. Although the former only has 2GB RAM, this can be upgraded up to 8GB -- see page 39 of the HMM.
Regards
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Is there a significant difference between the 2.5 GHz i5 and 2.9 GHz i7 processor?

I'm going to be using my computer for grad school, so I'll be using multiple internet windows plus the Apple versions of Microsoft office all at once. I'll also be using the computer to watch Netflix. No gaming or movie-making or anything like that. So, what kind of difference would the upgraded processor make for me? I feel like upgrading it would be a waste for me because I'm using pretty basic stuff, but I could be wrong.

2.9GHz dual-core Intel Core i7
vs
2.5GHz dual-core Intel Core i5
Higher clock speed
2.9 GHz
vs
2.5 GHz
More than 15% higher clock speed
More l3 cache
4 MB
vs
3 MB
Around 35% more l3 cache; more data can be stored in the l3 cache for quick access later
Supports trusted computing
Yes
vs
No
Allows for safer, more reliable computing
Better 3DMark11 physics score
5,140
vs
3,130
Around 65% better 3DMark11 physics score
Better turbo clock speed
1,250 MHz
vs
1,100 MHz
Around 15% better turbo clock speed
More l3 cache per core
2 MB/core
vs
1.5 MB/core
Around 35% more l3 cache per core
Better PassMark (Single core) score
1,790
vs
1,524
More than 15% better PassMark (Single core) score
Better 3DMark06 CPU score
4,134
vs
3,553
More than 15% better 3DMark06 CPU score
Better PassMark score
4,543
vs
3,823
Around 20% better PassMark score
Slightly better geekbench (32-bit) score
5,849
vs
4,947
Around 20% better geekbench (32-bit) score
Better clock speed
3.25 GHz
vs
2.88 GHz
Around 15% better clock speed
Slightly better PassMark score
1,823.4
vs
1,623.4
More than 10% better PassMark score

Mbp 13" i5 2,3 vs. 2,4 GhZ

hi there. thinking of getting an mbp 13" i5. i saw that there is a 2,3 GHz version and a 2,4 GHz version. for which one would you go and why? i´m gonna use it together with ableton, ni maschine and some max msp patches in the same time. thanks for help.
going to get 8MB RAM anyways.
actually also the 13" i7 2,7 /2,8 GHz would be an affordable option for me, but i heard they get hot and loud very fast ?!?!....

It's gone down to between 70-80 degrees now, but that still seems too hot. Using the keyboard for too long feels like it's gonna burn my fingers.
Or if that's scaled down too much, here: http://i.imgur.com/TLNpDbf.png
Oh, the exact model is A1278 (A127B?), "MacBookPro8,1" in System Information.

802.11n support ... 2.4 or 5 GHz?

Which printers have support for 802.11n on the 5 GHz band, rather than the (more common, but prone to interference) 2.4GHz band?
This question was solved.
View Solution.

No HP printers support 5GHz that I know of.
Say thanks by clicking "Kudos" "thumbs up" in the post that helped you.
I am employed by HP

MDD 1.25 GHz DP doesn't start - No Powerbutton lit - Fan spins loudly

Hi,
I have an 1.25 GHz DP MDD which doesn't start. When I release the power button, the light goes off again but the machine stays on. After half a minute or so the fan starts spinning loudly.
Anyone any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks in advance

daakaa6 wrote:
Actually, I'm new to the Apple forums,but saw an entry about "fans spinning loudly" and had a simple MDD question for the experts. Where is the best place to find quiet fans for my MDD dual 867? Most of the ones I find in the right size are three and four pin on the smaller (60mm) fan, and I don't know enough about the specs to know if there is an adapter, cut and splice, or what? I'm sure this is a no-brainer for somebody out there. Any help would be appreciated.
Actually, you probably would have wanted to posted this as a new thread, since it's a slightly different topic. But anyway...
Which fans? 120mm case fan, 60mm PSU fans, 80mm optical fan? All the above? If you have the "Delta kit", i.e. Delta fans everywhere, I can understand why.
If you replace any of them, you do want to make sure you get fans with similar specs. This blog entry has a really long list of comments. But there are jewels in there. Any fan you replace you'll want to get them with similar specifications, or at least have someone else give you details.
From that blog and similar post on xlr8yourmac, it looks like there are some Thermaltakes that are nice PSU replacements -- there are some links to online stores. There's a SilentX 120mm case fan mentioned that a lot of people have used.
Again, it's long as you go through the comments, but there are some links in there.

2.3 ghz G5 DP or 1.33 ghz G4 DP - which is more reliable

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