2 wireless+1 router

hi, i have 3 computers at home. 2 of them are wireless(both wireless usb adapter) and one of them is with the modem+router.
recently, both of the wireless goes disconnect after 30mins-1hour(at the same time), but the computer with router stays connected. the main computer display a msg that a cable has been unplugged, and the main computer get disconnected for about 1second(but connects back later).
Once i restart the router+modem, the wireless works fine. but i have to keep restarting router+modem for the other 2 wireless to connect.
can anyone help me troubleshoot the problem? is it the router,modem or wiring fault?

Let's start with what adapters and what router you are using and how they are connected exactly.

Similar Messages

  • I want a new and more powerful (non-Apple) wireless router but I still want to use my existing Time Capsule to continue with my Time Machine backups and I still need the Time Capsule's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features and capabilities

    THE SHORTER STORY
    My goal is to successfully use my existing Time Capsule (TC) with a new and more powerful wireless router. I need a new and more powerful wireless router in order to reach a distant Denon a/v receiver that is physically located in a master bedroom some 50 feet away from my modem. I need to provide this Denon a/v receiver with an Internet connection so that it can obtain its firmware updates and I need to connect this Denon a/v receiver to my network in order to use its AirPlay feature. I believe l still need the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features because I am not sure if the new wireless router will provide me with the NAS like features / capabilities I need to share files between my two Apple laptops with OS X 10.8.2. And I know that I absolutely need my TC's seamless integration with Apple's Time Machine (TM) application in order to continue to make effortless backups of my two Apple laptops. To my knowledge nothing works with TM like Apple's TC. I also need the hard disk storage space built into the TC.
    I cannot use a long wired Ethernet cable connection in this apartment and I cannot use power-line adapters. I have read that wireless range extenders and repeaters are difficult to successfully set-up and that they will reduce data speeds, especially so when incorrectly set-up. I cannot relocate my modem and/or primary base station wireless router.
    In short, I want to use my TC with my new and more powerful wireless router. I need to stop using the TC to connect to the modem. However, I still need the TC for seamless TM backups. I also need to use the TC's built in hard drive for storage. And I may still need the TC's NAS capabilities to share files wirelessly between laptops because I am assuming the new wireless router will not provide NAS capabilities for OS X 10.8.2 (products like this/non-Apple products rarely seem to work with OS X 10.8.2/Macs to provide NAS features and capabilities). Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone please advise on how to set-up my new Asus wireless router with my existing TC in such a way to accomplish all of this?
    What is the best configuration or set-up to accomplish my above goals?
    Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!
    THE FULL STORY
    I live in an apartment building where my existing Time Capsule (TC) is located in my living room and serves many purposes. Specially, my TC is at least all of the following:
    (1) Wi-Fi router connected to Comcast Internet service via Motorola SB6121 cable modem - currently the TC is the Wi-Fi base station that connects to the modem and has the gateway address to the Internet. The TC now provides the DHCP service for the Wi-Fi network.
    (2) Wireless router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to several Wi-Fi clients - two Apple laptop computers, an iPod touch, an iPad and an iPhone all connect wirelessly to the Internet via the TC.
    (3) Wired Ethernet router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to three different devices - a Panasonic TV, LG Blu-Ray player and an Apple TV each use one of the three LAN ports on the back of the TC to gain access to the Internet.
    (4) Primary base station in my attempt to extend my wireless network to a distant (located far away) Denon a/v receiver requiring a wired Ethernet connection - In addition to the TC, which is my primary base station, I am also using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. I cannot use a wired Ethernet connection to continuously travel from the living room to the master bedroom. The distance is too great as I cannot effectively hide the Ethernet cable in this apartment.
    (5) Time Machine (TM) backup facilitator - I use my TC to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops using Apple's Time Machine (TM) application. However, I ran out of storage space on my TC and therefore added external storage to it. Specifically, I added an external hard drive to my TC via the USB port on the back of the TC. I now use this added external hard drive connected to the TC via USB as the destination storage drive for my TM back-ups. I have partitioned the added external hard drive, and each of the several partitions all have enough storage space (e.g., each of the two partitions used by TM are sized at three times the hard drive space of each laptop, etc.). Everything works flawlessly.
    (6) Network Attached Storage (NAS) - In addition to using the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) capabilities to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops via TM, I also store other additional files on both (A) the hard drive built into the TC and (B) the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB (there are additional separate partitions on this drive for these other additional and non-TM backup files).
    I use the TC's NAS feature with my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Again, everything works wirelessly and flawlessly. (Note: the Apple TV is connected to the network via Ethernet and a LAN port on the back of the TC).
    The issue I am having is when I try to listen to music via Apple's AirPlay in the master bedroom. This master bedroom is located at a distance of two rooms away from the TC's current location in the living room, which is a distance of about 50 feet. This apartment has a long rectangular floor plan where each room is connected to the next in a straight line. In order to use AirPlay in the master bedroom I am using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. This additional base station connects wirelessly to the WiFi network provided by my TC and then gives my Denon receiver the wired Ethernet connection it needs to use AirPlay. I have tried moving my iTunes music directly onto my laptop's hard drive, and then I used AirPlay on this same laptop to connect to the Denon receiver. I always get a successful connection and the song plays, but the problem is that the connection inevitably drops.
    I live in an apartment building and all of the many wireless routers in this building create a great deal of WiFi interference on both the 2.4 GHz and 5GHz bands. I have tried connecting the Netgear product to each the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands, but neither band can successfully maintain a wireless connection between the TC and the Netgear product. I also attempted to maintain a wireless connection to an iPod touch using the 2.4 GHz band and AirPlay on this iPod touch to play music on the Denon receiver. Again, I was able to establish a connection and successfully play music, but after a few minutes the connection dropped and the music stopped playing. I therefore have concluded that I have a poor wireless connection in the master bedroom. I can establish a connection, but it is intermittent with frequent drops. I have verified this with both laptops by working in the master bedroom for an entire day on both laptops. The Internet connection in this master bedroom proved to drop out frequently - about once an hour with the laptops. The wireless connection and the frequency of its dropout are far worse with the iPod touch and an iPhone.
    I cannot relocate the TC. Also, this is an apartment and I therefore cannot extend the range of my network with Ethernet cable (I cannot drill through walls/ceilings, etc.). It is an old building with antiquated wiring and power-line adapters are not likely to function properly, nor can I spare the direct power outlet required with a power-line adapter. I simply need every outlet I can get and cannot afford to block any direct outlet.
    My solution is to use a more powerful wireless router. I found the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router which will likely provide a better connection to my wireless Internet in the master bedroom than the TC. The 802.11ac band of this Asus wireless router is totally useless to me, but based on what I have read I believe this router will provide a stronger connection at greater distances then my TC. And I will be ready for 802.11ac when it becomes more widely available.
    However, I still need to maintain the TC's ability to work seamlessly with TM to backup my two laptops. Also, I doubt the new Asus router will provide OS X 10.8.2 with NAS like features and capabilities. Therefore, I still would like to use the TC's NAS capabilities to share files on my network wirelessly assuming the Asus wireless router fails to provide this feature. I need a new and more powerful wireless router, but I need to maintain the TC's NAS features and seamless integration with TM. Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone advise on how to set-up my existing TC with this new Asus wireless router in such a way to accomplish all of this?
    Modem
    Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
    Existing Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Apple Time Capsule
    Apple Time Capsule MC343LL/A 1TB Sim DualBand (purchased June 2010, likely the Winter 2009 Model)
    Desired New Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Non-Apple Asus
    ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router
    Extended Wi-Fi Base Station - Provides an Ethernet Connection to a Denon A/V Receiver Two Rooms Away from the Modem
    Netgear Universal Dual Band Wireless Internet Adapter for TV & Blu-Ray (WNCE3001)
    Addition External Hard Drive Attached to the Existing Apple Time Capsule via USB
    WD My Book Studio 4TB Mac External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0
    Existing Laptops on the Wireless Network Requiring Time Machine Backups
    MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2012) OS X 10.8.2
    MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2010) OS X 10.8.2
    Other Existing Apple Products (Clients) on the Wireless Network
    iPod Touch (second generation) is model A1288.
    iPad (1st generation)
    Apple TV (3rd generation) - Quantity two (2)

    Thanks Bob Timmons.
    In regards to a Plan B, I hear ya brother. I am already on what feels like Plan Z. Getting WiFi to a far off room in an apartment building crowded with WiFi routers is a major pain.
    I am basing my thoughts on the potential of a new and more powerful router reaching the far off master bedroom based on positive reviews on cnet.com, pcmag.com and pcworld.com. All 3 of these web sites have reviewed the Asus RT-AC66U 802.11AC wireless router as well as its virtual twin cousin 802.11n router. What impressed me is that all 3 sites rated this router #1 overall in terms of both range and speed (in both the 802.11n and 802.11AC flavors). They tested the router in real world scenarios where the router needed to compete with a lot of other wireless routers. One of the sites even buried this Asus router in a media room with thick walls and inside a media cabinet. This Asus router should be able to serve my 2.4 GHz band wireless clients (iPod Touch and iPhone 4) with a 2.4GHz Wireless-N band offering some 50 feet of dependable range and a 60 Mbps throughput at that range. I am hoping that works, but it's borderline for my master bedroom. My 5 GHz wireless clients (laptops) will enjoy a 5GHz Wireless-N band offering 150 feet of range and a 200 Mbps throughput at that range. I have no idea what most of that stuff means, but I did also read that Asus could reach 300 feet and I got really excited. My mileage may vary of course and I'm sure I'm making some mistakes in my interpretation of their data. However, my Winter 2009 Time Capsule was rated by cnet.com to deliver real world performance of less than that, and 802.11AC may or may not be useful to me someday. But when this Asus arrives and provides anything other than an excellent and consistent wireless signal without drops in the master bedroom it's going right back!
    Your solution sounds great, but I have some questions. I'm using OS X 10.8.2 and Airport Utility (version 6.1 610.31) and on its third tab labeled "Wireless" the top option enables you to set "Network Mode" to either:
    Create a wireless network
    Extend a wireless network
    Off
    Given your advice to "Turn off the wireless on the TC," should I set Network Mode to Off? Sorry, I'm clueless in regards to how to turn off the wireless on the TC any other way. Can you provide specific steps on how to turn off the wireless on the TC? If what I wrote is correct then what should the rest of this Wireless tab look like, or perhaps it is irrelevant when wireless is off?
    Next, what do you mean by "Configure the TC in Bridge Mode?" Under Airports Utility's fourth tab labeled "Network" the top option "Router Mode" allows for either:
    DHCP and Nat
    DHCP Only
    Off (Bridge Mode)
    Is your advice to Configure the TC in Bridge Mode as simple as setting Router Mode to Off (Bridge Mode)? If yes, then what should the rest of this "Network" tab look like? Anything else involved in configuring the TC in Bridge Mode or is it really as simple as setting the Router Mode to "Off (Bridge Mode)"?
    How about the other tabs in Airport Utility, can they all stay as is assuming I use the same network name and password for the new Asus wireless router? Or do I need to make any other changes to the TC via Airport Utility?
    Finally, in regards to your Plan B suggestion. I agree. But do you have a Plan B for me? I would greatly appreciate any alternative you could provide. Specifically, if you needed a TC's Internet connection to reach a far off corner of your home how would you do it? In the master bedroom I need both a wired Ethernet connection for the Denon a/v receiver and wireless Internet connection for the iPhone and iPod Touch.
    Power-Line Adapters - High Cost, Blocks at Least One Wall Outlet and Does Not Solve the Wireless Need
    I actually like exactly one power-line adapter, which is the D-Link DHP-540 PowerLine AV 500 4-Port Gigabit Switch. This D-Link power-line adapter plugs into your wall outlet with a normal sized plug (regular standard power cord much like any other electronic device) instead of all of the other recommended power-line adapters that not only use at least one wall outlet but also often block the second outlet. You cannot use a power strip with a power-line adapter which is very impractical for me. And everything about my home is strange and upside down. The wiring here is a disaster and I don't have faith in its ability to carry Internet access from the living room to the master bedroom. And this D-Link power-line adapter costs $90 each and I need at least two to make the connection to the Denon A/V receiver. So, $180 on this solution and I still don't have a dependable drop free wireless connection in the master bedroom. The Denon might get its Ethernet Internet connection from the power-line adapter, but if I want to use an iPhone 4 or iPod Touch to stream AirPlay music to the Denon wirelessly (Pandora/iTunes, etc.) from the master bedroom the wireless connection will not be stable in there and I've already spent $190 on just the two power-line adapters needed.
    Extenders / Repeaters / Wirelessly Extending the Wireless Network
    I have also read great things about the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Gigabit Dual Band Range Extender (Repeater) SR20000G and the My Net Wi-Fi Range Extender. The former is very powerful and the latter is easier to install. Both cost about $150 ish so similar to a new Asus router. However, everything I read about Range Extenders points to them not being very effective for a far off corner of your house wherein it's apparently hard to place the range extender in the sweet spot where it both gets a strong enough signal to actually effectively extend the wireless signal and otherwise does not reduce network throughput speeds to unacceptable speeds.
    Creating a Roaming Network By Hard Wiring with Ethernet Cable - Wife Would Say, "**** No!"
    Even Apple seems to warn against wirelessly extending your network (see: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4145#) and otherwise strongly recommends a roaming network where Ethernet cable is used to connect two wireless base stations. However, I am in an apartment where stringing together two wireless base stations with Ethernet cable would have an extremely low wife acceptance factor (WAF). I cannot (both contractually and from a skill prospective) hide Ethernet wire in the walls or ceiling. And having visible Ethernet cable running from room-to-room would be unacceptable, especially to the wife.
    So what is left? Do you have a Plan B for me? Thanks in advance for your help!

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    If you are interested, here's more detail and background.  
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    There are two things that can trip the mac filtering test to fail:  actual MAC address filtering setup (sounds like this is not the case) and using wireless channel 6 or automatic for wireless channel in the wireless network settings (in the router).  Since it does show failed for MAC filtering and you do not use this option, try changing the wireless channel in the router to 1 or 11.  Those two channels provide the best compatibility with printers due to less interference.  Almost everything defaults to auto or 6 for the channel and this causes a lot of interference.  This change should not affect anything at all.  To do this, you may need to contact the router manufacturer as the process differs from router to router.
    What brand and model is the router?
    Has anything in the network settings changed at all?
    What version is the Mac OS X?  There may be additional steps to take as it sounds like there are two separate issues involved and this could be revisited later.
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    I thought it might be a firmware issue so I successfully updated it today to the latest firmware “1.0.05 build 4 Mar 8, 2012” but the same thing happens. I just don’t get it. Why am I able to get 20 Mbps for the first few min in my bedroom and then it’s a crapshoot thereafter?  If it were interference wouldn’t the interference always be there and not be a gradual onset? Why when I’m in the living room with the router is it perfect at 25 Mbps but as soon as I go to my bedroom I get a much much lower connection speed.
    I could handle the speed being lower if it was consistent but it’s not. This post has taken me about 20 min to type and while doing so I ran the test a few times at a couple minutes apart and got 3 Mbps, 7 Mbps, and 10 Mbps speeds. Someone please help! This is driving me crazy!!!

    When in my bedroom there are only 2 other networks available to join that belong to neighbors but their signal strength is fair at best while my signal dances between being excellent and good. There is no microwave oven, cordless phone, or garage between me and the router. When I'm in my bedroom I'm no more than 10 feet from the actual router and only seperated by a wall and I'm pretty sure its not a brick wall.
    Again I don't understand how it could be interference. If there was something interfering wouldn't it always be interfering? Like I said in my first post every time I reset the network I get speeds of 20 Mbps for the first few min in my bedroom and then it gradually lowers and I get a fluctuating speed between 3 and 14 Mbps.
    In the settings there is no channel width option of 40 MHz only. I get "20 MHz only" and "Auto(20MHz or 40MHz)" as my options. I have tried them both but don't really notice a difference.
    I am going to try the insider program today to see what its results are.

  • Need help setting up my d-link wireless router to my imac

    I need some help trying to set up my D-Link WBR 2310 wireless router to my iMac. I currently have Bell Sympatico high speed.
    The reason I want to set up the wireless router is because my girlfriend works from home sometimes with her office computer downstairs and needs a wireless connection (she has a PC). I tried to call D-Link, but they're useless.
    Anyways, any help would be greatly appreciated. It would be great to know what settings to change and as much step by step info as possible. I realize it's probably pretty simple to set up, but I'm fairly new to Macs and also to wireless.
    Thanks again

    Hello, 
    Connect the D-Link to the iMac by Ethernet.
    Open Safari (or Firefox)
    Navigate to http://192.168.1.1
    Enter your password (default user is Admin and password "admin" - change it!)
    Find the Wireless Security section and change the SSID to your own name i.e. "home network" .
    Set the Encryption setting to "WPA" and enter a password of your choice. This is the encryption key and is different to the router's admin password.
    Configure the WAN part of the router (which will vary depending on your ISP).
    Configure the DHCP to serve clients (should be a simple on/off).
    Disconnect the iMac
    Go to the iMac and turn on Airport on (on the menu bar).
    When the iMac finds your SSID select it and enter the encryption password.
    Check to allow Keychain to store that detail.
    Hope that helps
    mrtotes

  • Need help configuring Cisco/Linksys wireless router to extend wi-fi signal to living room

    My U-verse wireless gateway is in the back of our house. We live in an old 1920's home with solid wood walls. For our macbooks, we get a pretty decent signal, but my wife's iPad 2 get's poor wi-fi speeds. I bought a Cisco/Linksys WRT160N wireless N broadband router. I have a wired connection in my living room (going to a 4 port switch) then connected to my DVR. I tried hooking up the new router but ended up getting no signal on the iPad. In fact, it caused other issues. I ended up disconnecting it and re-booting my gateway. All came back fine. This wireless router replaces a similar unit that went out in after a power failure, so I know this can be done, but I forget exactly how I confiured the old one. I would like it to "extend" my signal to the living room, but I am also willing to create a new network (different SSID). Do I need to turn of DHCP? Are there any web sites that can assist me in configuring the router? I wish I didn't have to deal with this. The signal from the RG is great when you are in the back room (20+ down). But my wife gets about 3 down on her iPad in the living room. Thanks in advance.

    Hi ,
    I was doing some research on how this can be done. It does not appear there is an option in the Cisco router to set it up as an access point, but there are several options you can do to extend your network. 
    The first thing you can do is just set it up as a router behind router setup, and you will just have two separate networks. Make sure the DHCP pool does not conflict with the U-verse's gateway of 192.168.1.x. 
    The second thing you can do is connect the Ethernet cable to one of the LAN ports on your Cisco router instead of using the internet port. This should make it work like a smart switch. 
    With both setups, you want to probably change the SSID, network key, and wireless security settings to the same thing for wireless roaming abilities. That way, anyone that configures their wireless connection will be connected to both networks. Just make sure the wireless channels are not the same, and I would suggest having them at least 5 apart.
    Hope this helps.
    -ATTU-verseCare

  • New WRT54G wireless router. Who's the genius that can help me?

    I just purchased a WRT54G wireless router. The main reason is my son wanted to be able to use his Sony PSP online. I also have two desktop computers that will be wired thru this router. My question's are. If he is using his PSP online and the desktops are wired, can the desktops be "hacked" if they are on/off? If the router is turned off then the wireless is not working? If I access the router and disable the SSID Broadcast then the wireless portion of the network is off? What are the safest security settings to protect my network?
    Thanks.

    Dead Mans Zone....  I guess.
    Using the DMZ is a very simple and risky way to forward ports. The DMZ takes an ip address of a computer on your network, and forwards all ports to that computer. This is really nice if you are having problems forwarding ports for some program. It can be a life saver if your router will not allow you to properly forward ports. It also has a huge downfall. The computer that is in the DMZ is now wide open to internet traffic. Meaning that it will catch virii, and it will be at risk of being hacked. If you put a computer into the DMZ then please install a software firewall to help protect it
    Orange/White. The Cisco logo is the Router’s SecureEasySetup button. It lights up and will stay orange when the Router is powered on. The color orange indicates that the Router is not using the SecureEasySetup feature, while the color white indicates that the Router is using the SecureEasySetup feature. When the Router enters SecureEasySetup mode, the Cisco logo will turn white and start flashing. After the Router has generated the SSID and WPA-PSK (also called WPA-Personal) key, the Cisco logo will stop flashing and stay white.
    Message Edited by wehowardjr on 12-30-200611:26 AM

  • How to connect a E1200 wireless router to a machine tool network for wireless communications

    Hello all, I am new to the forum, hope someone can help me out. I am wanting to connect my E1200 wireless router to a machine tool in our factory that has programmable controllers and is connected to the machine components via ethernet connections. This is so we can troubleshoot the machine without having a wired laptop. We have several ethernet switches on the machine and a range of IP addresses say from 192.16.1.1 through 192.16.1.150, and 192.16.17.1 through 192.16.17.150, all of the addresses are not used but random addresses in the range. I would like to be able to connect my E1200 to either one of the networks without having to make a change in the router setup. I can make it work on either network but when I switch my cable to the other network it has to be reconfigured. I am currently connecting my data cable to a ethernet port on the router and changing my router address from 192.168.1.1 to 192.16.1.1 and selecting a range of 150 so it will assign numbers as needed. This works great until I change to the other network and I have to change my router address to 192.16.17.1, I know this can be done on some routers because the technicians from the machine builder use them when working on the machines. thanks

    On the basic setup tab make the changes shown below:
    This basically make the router disappear off the existing networks and turns it into a wireless AP.
    Then when you set your laptop's wireless adapter to whatever IP network you want to connect to.
    If you need to connect to your router again change the laptop's adapter IP to something like 192.168.200.2
    Keep in mind nothing ever gets plugged into the Internet Port on the router.
    What I do with these manufacturing machine's is put them on the company network with static IP's. Then so operators can transfer programs and view drawings I place ELO touchscreens at each location. For the Laser cutter operators that do nesting they have a desktop workstation for the CAD software and put the nests on a network share or direct to the laser cutters.
    Please remember to Kudo those that help you.
    Linksys
    Communities Technical Support

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