2007 Macbook Black Battery wont recharge?

I have had to buy 5 new batteries for this macbook.  If the battery is drained of power and not recharged within three days it dies, and can not be recharged.  Does anyone know of any fixes? Better batteries? Apple refunds? Is Apple aware of this horrible product?

If the battery is drained of power and not recharged within three days it dies, and can not be recharged.
Normal for all Lithium-Poly batteries.

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    You can get a new third party battery fairly cheap on eBay
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    You can order a new battery from Apple's online store and install it yourself.
    This is the battery for the white MB: Rechargeable Battery - 13-inch MacBook (White).

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  • Late 2007 Macbook (Black) not running in 64-bit

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  • Should my Macbook (black 2008) be warped and the battery bloated?

    A few weeks ago I noticed that the battery was bloated and the case had warped.
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    If you can get to an Apple store they may replace the battery for free. If not try eBay.
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  • Question about cost for a 2007 MacBook!

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  • Average Maximum Cycle Count for Early 2008 MacBook (Black)

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  • Question about Snow Leopard and my Macbook Black

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  • HT2037 What is the cost of a MacBook 13" battery replacement?

    What is the cost of a MacBook 13" battery replacement?

    You can get a new third party battery fairly cheap on eBay. Every MacBook from 2006 through Mid 2009 except the Late 2008 Aluminum Unibody and the Late 2009 and 2010 White Unibodies use the same A1185 battery.
    Black Batteries http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=macbook+black+battery&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_sop=12 &_dmpt=Laptop_Batteries&_odkw=macbook+white+battery&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0. m 270.l1313
    White Batteries http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=macbook+white+battery&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_sop=12 &_dmpt=Laptop_Batteries&_odkw=macbook+black+battery&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0. m 270.l1313
    Or for $129 from The Apple Store  http://store.apple.com/us/product/MA566LL/A?mco=MTY3ODQ5OTY

  • MacBook Swollen Battery

    Hi guys,
    I'm from the Philippines. I have a 3.1 Macbook. My concern is about the battery. I already replaced the original battery with an authentic battery from an Apple store due to swelling problem of the battery and it affected my mouse click pad. The new battery that I have is 19 months old and swelling was observed again. This is not covered by the warranty anymore. I think I just have to report this battery problem must be addressed. I have other HP and toshiba laptops and did not experience battery problems other than its diminishing charge capacity. If this is the case always that I have to change my battery pack every a year, practically, it is better to consider other brand of laptops like toshiba. Also, do you have any idea if I can request for a replace of my battery pack? I still have the swollen original battery pack and the 19 months old battery pack. Hope you can look into my concern immediately. Thank you.

    If you have a MacBook with the removable battery you can get a new third party battery fairly cheap on eBay.
    White Batteries http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=macbook+white+battery&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_sop=12 &_dmpt=Laptop_Batteries&_odkw=macbook+black+battery&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0. m 270.l1313
    Or for $129 from Apple http://store.apple.com/us/product/MA566LL/A?mco=MTY3ODQ5OTY

  • Where to buy Macbook 13 battery?

    I see batteries listed from $21 to $89 on eBay and vendors such as OWC.
    Any recommendations?

    I've bought used MacBooks off of eBay for my family, seven of them so far over the last 5 years. I've bought 8 batteries off of eBay sellers, just going with the cheapest. Only had one with a problem, it gave out after 6 cycles. That one was replaced under the warranty by the seller. The only other batteries that have been a problem were Apple branded batteries that started bulging. I've had two of those happen.
    Apple doesn’t make any batteries. They buy them from the same manufacturers that the third party sellers are buying from. The only difference is that Apple has their logo imprinted on the battery.
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    Black Batteries http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=macbook+black+battery&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_sop=12 &_dmpt=Laptop_Batteries&_odkw=macbook+white+battery&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0. m 270.l1313
    White Batteries http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=macbook+white+battery&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_sop=12 &_dmpt=Laptop_Batteries&_odkw=macbook+black+battery&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0. m 270.l1313
    Or for $129 from The Apple Store  http://store.apple.com/us/product/MA566LL/A?mco=MTY3ODQ5OTY

  • We have a 2009 white macbook it got to 7% power was shut down wont recharge tried taking the battery out and magsafe nor light on the magsafe

    we have a 2009 white macbook it got to 7% power was shut down wont recharge tried taking the battery out and magsafe no light on the magsafe or power on the macbook? do we need a new magsafe or has the battery died?

    Hi degsy t,
    If you feel you may have potential battery or charger issues with your MacBook, you may find the troubleshooting steps in the following article helpful:
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    http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1446
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  • Late 2007 MacBook Pro intermittent black screen

    I have this very odd issue with an intermittent black screen on a late 2007 MacBook Pro (4GB/320GB 7200rpm) Mac OS X 10.6.8 v1.1
    Apologies for the length of the post.
    In cycles separated by a few days to a week, the screen will flicker to black, initially very briefly, then for longer periods until it is black continuously, where it stays from a few hours to a couple of days then it flickers to normal, again very briefly then with longer intervals until it is steady and normal. It can then be fine for a week or more.
    When the screen is working, it's perfect; no lines, stripes, colour shift or any difference to what one would expect. When it is black, the backlight is still operational (and dimming when on battery power) but there is no image - all pixels are solid black. Shining a torch on/through the screen does not reveal any image. When mirrored, the external monitor shows the brightness adjustment moving up and down in response to the key presses but it has no effect on the internal screen.
    My external display (Eizo) is always functional no matter what the built-in one is doing and is completely solid at all times.
    There is no correlation to temperature (I have SMC fan control), sleep, restart, fan speed, power source or anything environmental. The MacBook is on a fan stand for most of the time. External connections make no difference. If the fault is present before changing any of these factors, it is there after.
    I am aware that this machine has known vulnerabilities with GPU and display issues but none present quite like this. I have performed the usual trawl on the net and I now know more than I ever wanted to about attempts to fix it.
    Software remedies attempted:
    Resetting PRAM and power manager.
    No sleep image file (never used this option). I deleted the old swap files that were there in any case but this unsurprisingly did nothing.
    Resetting the display settings via keyboard commands or Sys Prefs.
    Screen savers and settings are not implicated.
    Nothing whatever in the console logs that I can see.
    TechTool Pro gives video RAM a clean bill of health and all other components pass including tests on the HD with TTP and DiskWarrior.
    Safe boot and booting from systems on backups seem to have no effect but one safe boot restored the screen briefly - I think it was a coincidence.
    I updated the OS from 10.6.6 to 10.6.8 while this fault was coming and going and it made no difference. I usually prepare the machine for updates by running the cron jobs, repairing permissions etc.
    In expectation of suffering this fault when the external monitor was not connected, I installed iScreen on the MacBook and use my iPad as a supplementary display and that works well too. Having all three operating, when the internal is functioning, is quite fun.
    Hardware tests:
    I removed the upper plate holding the keyboard and the interior of the machine was very clean with only some small dust accumulations in the fans, which were removed. There was no sign of any discolouration, corrosion, or other unpleasantness on the PCBs. All connectors and wiring looked good.
    Every part of the logic board, cables and connectors were percussed, gently deflected and spray freezed, both while the fault was present and not (machine running) with no effect.
    Display back was removed and the LCD board given the same treatment. No changes.
    Display cable disconnected at both ends and tested for continuity (probe resistance accounted for) and consistency with a Fluke 87 multimeter - passed OK. On a scope, active signals and power were present on all the pins when the display was working but the fault did not occur during this test, which might have been interesting.
    No apparent shorting of the display cable but without removing it this cannot be proved.
    Problem not affected by hinge position, pressure on any part of the display, twisting, percussing etc.
    Used compressed air to blow out the connectors which were reseated carefully.
    After all this, the machine remains in exactly the same state, cycling between operational and black with various flickering stages as it comes and goes.
    All I can deduce is that as the external monitor has always been OK, the GPU itself is probably working fine and the fault is more likely in the LCD panel electronics. I doesn't feel like a software issue to me but heck, I don't know what is going on.
    Does anyone have any experience of something like this?
    Thanks,
    Joel.

    Thomas,
    Thanks for your post and I'm sorry you have suffered the same problems.
    My trust levels are not very high because it's clear there is some systemic display problem with this model, which is why Apple are fixing them. As I mentioned, we have no idea if the replacement boards are any different to the originals. From your experience it would look like they are not and my suspicion is that it is very unlikely that Apple made a new batch of these logic boards a long time after the model was discontinued. If anyone has evidence to the contrary, I stand to be corrected.
    As you say, the difference between our two faults appears to be that a physical deformation of some part of the machine does something with yours but never did with mine. At one point I felt that a short in the internal display cable seemed like the best explanation for the problem but it looks like it's more complex than that because of the behaviour of our external displays and subsequent strange booting behaviour.
    If, as I have read, the soldering of the GPU was faulty and leads to progressive failure of the graphics sub-system, then all kinds of strange behaviours could arise and produce the intermittent problems we have seen. Micro-fractures of the chip interconnects would suggest that tiny movements might change the presentation of the fault. If soldering really is the issue, then keeping the machine as cool as possible will extend the life of the connections. Consequently mine will sit on a fan-stand for the rest of its days, which is no problem because it just had Win 7 installed on it and I don't want to be seen in public with it in that state ;-)
    All we can conclude is that a logic board swap fixes the problem for some indeterminate period, so the problem is on that board. Whether it is a design fault with the NVIDIA chip itself or a manufacturing fault with the board is not clear but we can probably forget LCD panels, cables, sleep issues, power supplies and all the other peripheral issues unless there is yet another design issue that causes the GPU to fail.
    Are you intending to present your machine to Apple for another go at a fix?

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