2009 Mac Pro no audio out from Line Out and/or Digital Out.

Hey guys, I recently bought a new tv which has an optical input and thought I'd buy an optical cable to connect it to my Mac Pro's (4.1 model 2009 I believe) digital out port which I have never used before .
The issue I'm facing since is that I can't get out from my mac pro to my tv. I also bought a cable to direct sound from my mac pro's line out, to my tv's red/white stero audio ports.That didn't work either.
When I select Digital out as the default audio output in Sound preferences the OS says that there are not default audio controls for that device and the sound icon in the menu bar is greyed out while when I switch to line out output I can control volume but no audio is coming from my TV.
I've been searching on forums and didn't find any relevant answer so if someone knows what may cause this that'd be really helpful.
*ALSO: I've got windows 8 instaleld on my mac pro as well. The digital out doesn't work there as well although the line out does send sound to the TV.
** I also have soundflower installed and perian although I don't think any of them would mess things up like that.
Do you think this is a problem with my Mac or is this a common Mavericks issue (sorry forgot to mention I'm on 10.9.2)
Many Thanks,
Thanos.

When I select Digital out as the default audio output in Sound preferences the OS says that there are not default audio controls for that device and the sound icon in the menu bar is greyed out
That's normal. Is the correct audio input selected on the TV?

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Is this question in the correct discussion? I thought this was the discussion for Mac Pro (previous to 2009). This could be a problem that appeared in the 2009 Mac Pro line ... or it could be related to the OS you are running.

2009 mac pro can't install any new os's - tried multiple drives

Ok guys here's where i'm at.
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I downloaded and ran mavericks but after it restarted it just hung on the no entry sign over night.
So i did a restore and that worked.
I repaired permissions, and tried via a usb thumb drive no luck.
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Even stranger when i try to install from external usb drive the installer doesnt see the hdd but if i use the dvd it says it cannot install but does see the hdd and lets me do a restore.
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AND
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I know there have been some similar reports or stories about installing OS X.
At one time 2009 4,1 had trouble with Mountain Lion also.
Some models had trouble due to a user installed Apple wifi / bluetooth module.
Sometimes NVRAM is to blame and an SMC Reset AND zap PRAM/NVRAM (from cold boots).
This is a good tutorial, updated, while there are various other How To's around since Lion that are all basic same steps.
How to make your own bootable OS X 10.9 Mavericks USB install drive
http://arstechnica.com/apple/2013/10/how-to-make-your-own-bootable-os-x-10-9-mav ericks-usb-install-drive/
it’s possible to create a local USB installer for Mavericks. The bad news is that it wasn’t as simple as it was before—Apple has changed the way the installer works, and making an install disk manually is more difficult than it used to be. Before we get started, here’s what you’ll need:
An 8GB or larger USB flash drive, or an 8GB or larger partition on some other kind of external drive
The OS X 10.9 Mavericks installer from the Mac App Store in your Applications folder. The installer will delete itself when you install the operating system, but it can be re-downloaded if necessary.
The latest beta of the Lion Diskmaker app, available here (as of this writing, version 3 beta 3 is the most recent). This app is free to download, but the creator accepts donations if you want to support his efforts.
An administrator account on the Mac you're using to create the disk.
The easy way
Lion Diskmaker remains the easiest, most user-friendly way to get this done.

How do I properly zero out or erase the hard drives in my early 2009 Mac Pro 4,1 tower?

How do I properly zero out or erase the hard drives in my early 2009 Mac Pro 4,1 tower?
I assume there are already instructions on Apple.com someplace but haven't seen them yet… I have to one terabyte drives one the operating system the other is blank I want to start fresh I want to zero out both drives but I didn't want to make any mistakes
I know I can use disk utility to 0 Out Dr., #2 that means I will have to take out the operating system hard drive out of my 2008 Mac Pro and put it into my 2009 Mac Pro to use the disk utility to zero out drive one the OS drive in my 2009 Mac Pro am my correct
I just need a little bit a help I want to go slow so I don't make any mistakes with the sleds or with the erasing process which journaled to choose encrypted or not etc. etc.
Furthermore is there instructions on the site on how to change the hard drive into a different sled because the sleds and my 2009 are different than my 2008 any advice
Thank you

I'm doing this because my friend told me that zeroing out the drive can nap bad sectors and also later for some kind of diagnostics usage of the drive or something like that he wasn't really clear
My friend was really specific he said choose the option that writes zero's once over the drive that is plenty good enough I was inclined to use the maximum seven write ...I just want to make sure the drive has no bad sectors and that's it's it's zeroed out for possible future diagnostics usage or something that he said was usable later
he also advised me to run a test on it but I don't have the software you mentioned or the software that he has… So I may have to take the drives over to his house unless you have some kind of free software that's easy to use that you could suggest that will not only zero out the drive but test the drive completely
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Thank you

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I urgently need to know how I can connect 8 thunderbolt display, I was thinking with the new mac pro will come out, but I wonder if it is possible to connect an iMac to 4GB of graphics card, but suffers from the imac. thanks

I tightened all HD screws and it didn't help. With the machine running and side of the case off, I physically stopped both the video card fan and the front case fan with my finger for a couple seconds and the noise continued. I also took all hard drives out one by one and rebooted each time. Again, the noise continued until I took out the Mac HD in Bay 1, rebooted, and I had a very quiet, silent machine. The issue is the hard drive in bay 1 that shipped with the computer, it's without a doubt causing the hum/woosh sound. I still need to know if I can safely swap the Mac HD from bay 1 to bay 4 without any issues to the operating system. I would like to try that to see if it dampens the noise but I also want to make sure this swap won't screw up my machine at all.

Moving from 2009 Mac Pro to 2012

I have an early 2009 Mac Pro, and a mid-2012 Mac Pro. Can I simply pull the hard-drives out of the 2009 and put them in the 2012 and be good to go, or are there hardware-specific aspects of the installation (i.e., Apple stuff) that will not work because I'm shifting to different hardware? I have a million apps on my Mac Pro and don't want to go through the hassle of reinstalling everything.

Lanny wrote:
CS3 or later. CS2 apps won't run in Yosemite.
Doh. Yes, you'd have to go with a Snow Leopard Virtual Machine if you are using CS2. CS2 was when the painful authorization process started.

My Early 2009 Mac Pro won't restart after installing Mavericks

I have installed Mavericks on my Early 2009 Mac Pro and all seemed to install just fine but when I restart the Mac then it won't get past a grey screen with Apple logo. It seems that it does get reasonabley far into the startup, it gets passed the grey screen with cricling progress thingmy under the Apple logo, then it flashes very quickly and after that it is a grey screen with the Apple logo and no further.
I did try installing Mavericks when it first came out and I had this problem so I just abandoned and reinstalled Mountain Lion from my Time Machine backup. However I thought that with Mavericks now at 9.1, maybe it would work okay this time but no change. However this time I do want to get it working because the lastest Final Cut Pro X requires Mavericks and I do a lot of video editing.
Here are the things I've tried which have made no difference:
Removed all peripherals, so that now nothing is plugged in except the original Apple Keyboard, my Apple trackpad and my Eizo monitor.
I tried starting it in Safe Boot mode but this made no difference.
I started it up in Recovery mode and it will start in Recovery mode. While in Recovery mode I checked the startup hard drive with Disk Utility, the drive is fine, as and I repaired disk permisions which made no difference.
I zapped the PRAM.
I connected it to my MacBook Pro in Target Disk mode and used ProSoft's Drive Genius 3 to check over the startup hard drive again and check disk permissions and all is well.
It still will not startup
I would be most grateful if someone could assist.

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 3
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 4
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 5
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
If you've booted from an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Step 6
Boot in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 6.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 7
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 8
Reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 9
Repeat Step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 10
This step applies only to older Macs (not current models) that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery. Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a boot failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 11
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Mac Pro will not boot from cd or external drive

My Mac has an issue whith the boot drive, and I would like to format the drive and reinstall OS-X Mountain Lion and then use Time Machine to resore the Data. When I try to boot my Early 2009 Mac Pro (OS-X 10.8) using the option key, it loads the scrren that allows me to choose among the bootable drives. Once I choose either an external drive or CVD, it loads to the apple screen, stays there for about 5 minutes, then loads the OS on the main drive... Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Bill Mueller

At first I was just going to say it sounds like you have a bad optical drive, but then you had to go and say that it also won't boot from a HDD.
That just makes things a whole lot worse.
Start by removing the side cover and checking the RAM to see if any of the LEDs are lit up indicating bad RAM. Usually if there's any bad RAM found, it will just automatically disable that stick, but maybe yours isn't for some reason.
Look for any other LEDs that may be lit. Generally speaking, the only time you should see an LED (outside of the power LED) lit consistently is if there's a problem.
You should also see if you can get Apple Hardware Test to run, which may or may not find some problem.
But sorry to say, it's sounding very suspiciously like a bad logic board.
One other thing to try, is putting the SL drive into a different slot. So if you were putting it in slot 2, try slot 3 or 4. If you just have a bad SATA port, you might be able to just work around that until you get a new system.
If by chance this system is still under warranty, do not walk, do not pass go, do not collect $200, RUN to the nearest AASP or Apple store to make it THEIR problem to sort out.

Can I add a second ATI 4870 to my 2009 Mac Pro?

1. Can I add a second ATI 4870 to my 2009 Mac Pro? Sorry if posted already, I searched and Googled and could not find it.
2. What is the general consensus on the EVGA GTX285? Will this out perform the 4870?
I read somewhere that the ATI needs additional power from the power supply and the GTX does not? Is this true? If this is the case are there extra power supply connectors for an additional 4870 (hence my first question).
The GTX has dual DVI out connector and this is my preferred solution to get 2 x 30" Cinema Displays.
Thanks in advance,
MIke
Message was edited by: Michael710

1. Can I add a second ATI 4870 to my 2009 Mac Pro? Sorry if posted already, I searched and Googled and could not find it.
No. Each ATI 4870 needs two auxiliary power connectors. There are only two in the Mac Pro.
I read somewhere that the ATI needs additional power from the power supply and the GTX does not? Is this true?
No. Both use two per card.
If this is the case are there extra power supply connectors for an additional 4870 (hence my first question).
No.
The GTX has dual DVI out connector and this is my preferred solution to get 2 x 30" Cinema Displays.
You can use an adapter to connect a second 30" to the Mini DisplayPort
<http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A?fnode=MTY1NDA5OQ&mco=MjkyNjI0Mg>
(The latest adapters have new firmware, and shouldn't have problems.)
If you only need two displays, stick with one graphics card.

Boot Camp, Vista Ultimate x64 SP1, 2009 Mac Pro Quad 2.93, ATI 4870 HD

Hello All,
I’ve run into a problem installing Boot Camp with Vista Ultimate x64 SP1 on my early 2009 Mac Pro Quad 2.93 with Apple’s ATI Radeon 4870 HD (the one with one DVI and one mini-display). I followed the instructions from the Boot Camp Installation and Setup Guide, and everything was going great until I hit page 12 of the Guide (Step 3). The Boot Camp drivers installed without error, and prompted me to reboot. Upon rebooting onto the newly installed Vista x64 partition, the screen went black after the chkdsk screen appeared. I can boot into Vista safe mode, but booting into Vista normally results in the black screen. On a hunch, while in safe mode, I uninstalled the ATI video drivers installed by Boot Camp. I was then able to boot Vista normally, but only with the standard VGA adapter. Then I tried installing the latest 9.4 ATI drivers from the chipset vendor, AMD, http://game.amd.com/us-en/drivers_catalyst.aspx. Booting normally after the ATI chipset drivers were installed left me with a mostly black screen, and a few swizzles of horizontal color, but not enough to make out any sort of image. Once again, I was able to boot normally by first booting into safe mode and then uninstalling the ATI driver, leaving me with the standard VGA driver.
The displays I have tried so far are 1) Apple Cinema HD 23”, and 2) Apple Cinema 20”. Also, I have tried all 6 permutations with the ports on the Apple version of the ATI Radeon 4870 HD with both displays (using the mini-display to DVI adapter), 2 permutations with both displays, and 4 permutations with single displays. All permutations result in the same black screen after installing Boot Camp drivers.
Am I missing something? It seems to me that there is a display driver that needs to come from Apple that will work with the Apple version of the ATI Radeon 4870 HD in Vista Ultimate x64 SP1 attached to an Apple display. I’ve installed Vista Ultimate x64 SP1 and many other operating systems in the past 27 years of working with computers, and typically with video cards I’ve had to get the drivers from the vendor that shipped the card, not the chipset vendor. Sure, occasionally the opposite is true, and I don’t mind spending a few days to figure out what works best for me as long as I believe I am making progress.
Has anyone else run into this problem with his or her early 2009 Mac Pro Quad 2.93 with Apple’s ATI Radeon 4870 HD? I’m posting this in the Boot Camp forum as I think this problem is rooted in the Boot Camp drivers, specifically for the Apple ATI Radeon 4870 HD. Please let me know if I should post elsewhere.

You are the second person I think I've seen with trouble using Mac Pro and ATI drivers (other was on Mac Pro forum).
When updating graphics, there are extra steps that insure you get the best working drivers.
I've always found Apple to be behind the curve on Windows support. Drivers that come with a card from the vendor ususally means ATI or Nvidia, and even then, you go to the web and download and install the latest tested / beta / qualified drivers. Some people try a variety of driver versions to find the one that works best.
Apple has not been updating Boot Camp drivers for Late 2008 and on Macs. Boot Camp 2.1 is now over a year old. What is on your OEM Leopard DVD is the only drivers I would use - if at all! try without is what some do, and then see if you can selectively install. Under Windows 7, I don't need or install, and now with the RC/7077 version of 7, Microsoft 'blocks' installing Apple Boot Camp drivers as known to cause problems.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Unistall the various Apple services, drivers, startup items that you can live without or until you narrow it down. iTunes 8.1+ in Windows can break and prevent ability to even use optical drives and devices for instance.
Some tips for upgrading drivers, one from eVGA forum but should translate.
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.asp?m=396474
http://game.amd.com/us-en/drivers_catalyst.aspx
http://downloads.guru3d.com/download.php?det=1655

Can I use a new CPU in my early 2009 MAC PRO Single 2.8 Quadcore

Is it possble to replace the CPU Module with the latest CPU moduels on off for the Mac Pro?
The current one is below
Header 1
Header 2
Mac Pro4.1 Quad Core Intel Xeon 2.66
i Processor Early 2009

Hello. I have done this many times. When I originally had the 2009 Nehalem single quad, it was a 2.66 processor as well. I bought the w3580 which is the top of the line of that generation and runs at 3.33 ghz with turbo boost up to 3.60. The procedure to change the 2.66 to say the 3.33 is the same as for the 2010 series processors 2.8(also nehalem w3530) and the 3.2 which is a w3565. The only processors you would not be able to upgrade with the original 2009 boards are the hex core, or w36xx series. This is because of the firmware upgrade which recognizes Westmere or B1 stepping.
Think of it this way.. any w35xx will work in the 2009 and or 2010 mac pro(single quad only) while the w36xx series will only work in the 2010 series.
Mind me asking what you currently use your mac pro for of which would warrant the need to go with a higher speed processor? You could very well just max out the memory and or pick up SSD drives and that alone will help to dramatically speed things up. W3580 3.33 will run you about 400-600 dollars, sometimes even less. The w3580 is the max you can go with the 2009 mac pro series.. then its getting the dual boards if you want to go even further, but I don't recommend that as the processor board and processors themselves are about as close to a 2010 mac pro.

Poor performance with Yosemite and early 2009 Mac Pro

I have an early 2009 Mac Pro with the following specs:
- 2.66 GHz Quad Core Intel Xeon
- 10 GB of 1066 MHz RAM
- NVidia GeForce GT 120 512 MB
- 256 MB solid state drive for my system partition
- Two monitors connected, each at 1680x1050 resolution
Back when I was running OS X 10.7 or 10.8 I found that for every day tasks the performance using my computer was adequate. However, starting around 10.9, and even worse since upgrading to 10.10, thinks have gotten painfully slow. To give an example, activating Mission Control can take upwards of four seconds, with the animation being very choppy. Changing tabs on a Finder window can take two seconds for the switch to happen. Just switching between different windows, it can take several seconds for a window to activate. It's gotten to the point where I'm having difficulty working. So I'm thinking of upgrading some of my hardware.
Given my specs the weakest link seems to be my graphics card, and all of these issues do seem to be related to graphics. So my questions are:
- Do you think upgrading my graphics card will substantially improve things, and is there anything else I should upgrade?
- Is this slowness just the result of the computer being nearly six years old, and no upgrades will really improve things that much?
Thanks in advance!

Between Setup Assistant, and your existing system "untouched" (or use CCC if say you want to use an existing SSD for the system) there is no reason it should be a lot of work setting up. Have you ever used Migration or Setup? it has also gotten better.
Also, having 10.9.5 on another drive and running DU - and TRIM _now_ would be helpful.
Looking at just what gremlins you have running around inside your current system is not bad but.... sometimes the "long road" turns a shortcut into a dead end, and avoiding doing what seems the long road and hardest gets you where you want to go: a solid stable system.
Less is more. Most systems have more than needed and they get in the way and can cause trouble. Even handy "widgets" and those things that monitor system functions, even disk status. Which is why I like seeing a separate small system maintenance volume just for the weekly checkup. 30GB is more than enough so just slice out a partition somewhere - on another drive/device.
Those things, more so than and a lot cheaper than a new GPU. If your SSD is two years old, the 840 EVO from Samsung is down under $120 for 250GB, or use one for Lightroom / Aperture / iPhoto or scratch.
One person was complaining about sluggish window issue and thought it was the driver. Turned out It happened in ONE APP, not everywhere - very telling - and the app in question needs update. Adobe updated CC (for Windows) last month to finally support dual Dxx and some of the newer AMD GPUs - can the mac be far behind?
10GB RAM? that would not be 3 x 4GB or any combination using triple channel memory.

Early 2009 Mac Pro, Mavericks, and Airplay

Yes, I'm sure this question has been asked and answered a thousands times, but I have been looking in vain for an answer that helps me.
I have an early 2009 Mac Pro, running Mavericks. I have a Denon AVR-1912 Receiver, which my iPhone and iPad see and can play through with no trouble. So can my MacBook Pro. I also have Apple TV, but I don't use it for streaming music because the Denon works well.
What I want to do is sit at my Mac Pro desktop and play songs through iTunes that play not only through my desktop system but through my home theater system (the Denon Receiver). I'm used to clicking on the little Airplay icon and getting to choose Single or Multiple speakers. When I go to System Prefs/Sound, I see my sound card (Presonus Firestudio) AND I see Apple TV and my Denon. So my computer is seeing them both.
Here's what happens. If I choose the Firestudio in System Prefs, it plays as always through my desktop system, but there is no Airplay icon in iTunes. If I choose Denon in System Prefs, iTunes plays music through the Denon AND I get the Airplay icon in iTunes. If i click on the icon and I choose Multiple, I can choose Airplay Device, which is already checked, and Computer. If I click on Computer, the Airplay icon disappears in iTunes, and the music starts playing through my computer's internal speakers, not through my Firestudio sound card, and it stops playing through the Denon.
Why does the Airplay icon not give me an option to play through my sound card and the Denon? Why, in other words, can't I do what I said I wanted to do in the third paragraph, above? Is it possible or is my Mac Pro too old?
Many thanks,
Paul

I found out that the built in firewall interferes with AirPlay (which I know is weird).
Try turning the OS X firewall off using System Settings -> Security. If AirPlay now works, turn on the firewall and add "coreaudio" to the list of exceptions. This worked for me.
Coreaudio is the system driver for audio, by the way.

Lacie Speakers and Mac Pro Firewire problem waking from sleep and loud feed

Lacie Speakers and Mac Pro Firewire problem waking from sleep and loud feedback. I had a powermac before this with the speakers and it worked fine. But the mac pro is having these issues. Is it the firewire port or the speakers or (and most likely) just a firmware glitch with mac pro? Anyone else see these issues?

http://web.mac.com/jerimydulay/Site/MyAlbums/Pages/Lacie_FirewireMIDI.html
Here is my audio settings. For some reason I wish I could remember what I did. It was actually the Apple Store tech in the Unversity Village in Seattle that gave me the idea and I swear I had to change the settings in MIDI setup. Now that Leopard is out it seems the MIDI stuff has been redone. I included screenshots of my MIDI setup as it is currently to see if you see something different on your computers. Let me know!

What USB wireless works with my 2009 Mac Pro

I have just moved to a new house and only have access to wirelss. What are my wirless connectivity options for my 2009 Mac Pro running OS 10.9.2?

that depends. click on the apple, then about this mac, then report, and see if you have a wireless card installed. If not, there are some usb wifi options out there that will work with mac, from Amped, for example. Just plug 'em in, change your network over to Wifi from Ethernet, punch in the password, and you should be good to go
I presume you are talking about the desktop here, not the macbook pro, which is an entirely different critter.
goodl luck to you
JB

2009 Mac Pro no audio out from Line Out and/or Digital Out.

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