2011 Macbook Pro No power

Went to my macbook pro after working fine in the morning, and it was completely lifeless. No light on power cable, and have tried another power cable which has same result. Any ideas?

Go step by step and test.
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1365
Note: Steps 5 and 6
Step 5
Reset SMC. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Choose the method for:
"Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".

Similar Messages

2011 Macbook Pro suddenly says no space available on start-up disk (plenty available) and USB drawing too much power (only charging phone). What's going on with my computer? No longer able to charge my iPhone 5.

Hi, all.
Two days ago I was using my computer, a 2011 Macbook Pro, and suddenly got the error message reading "Your Mac OS X startup disk has no more space available for application memory. To avoid problems with your computer, quit any applications you are not using. Closing windows and removing files from your startup disk will also help."
I was only using Google Chrome, nothing was running in the background, and I have 443 of 449.25 GB available (this is after clean-up I conducted after receiving the error message, but probably cleaned up less than 25 GB), so there should be no shortage of space. However, the message kept popping up and I deleted a few files and eventually it went away and hasn't reappeared.
However, last night and then again this morning I have been getting the error message that my USB drive is pulling too much power and has been disable. All that was plugged in was my iPhone 5 on the charger and my computer is also on its charger, so I don't know why this would be an issue, either. I have always charged my phone this way and never had a problem until today.
I haven't been able to charge my phone since. What's going on with my computer?

Regarding the USB, see if zapping the PRAM helps.
Regarding your storage space check out the following:
HD Space Checkers:
Disk Inventory X (FREE)
WhatSize (SHAREWARE)
OmniDiskSweeper (FREE)
GrandPerspective (FREE - donation)
Mac Performance Guide
Slimming your hard drive
===============
Quick fix How To Quickly Free Up Hard Drive Space on Mac OS
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO-mlLApEuk

2011 MacBook Pro hard drive power consumption

Does anyone know the differences in power consumption between the Apple-supplied 750GB 5400rpm HDD, 500GB 7200rpm HDD, and 256GB SSD drives? I'm currently using a 2011 MacBook Pro with an Apple-supplied 256GB SSD and I'm getting between 5-8 hours of battery life, depending on what I'm doing. I wish it could get closer to a full 10-hour battery life for longer trips, but I realize there's a price for performance. What's the best hard drive option to minimize power consumption? Are there any other tips for increasing battery life? Does it make a difference if you turn off Bluetooth and WiFi when you know you're not going to be able to use them? Thank you in advance for your reply.

Yes, turn Wi-Fi and BT off when not needed. That and your screen are the biggest power consumers. Keep the brightness as low as you can to conserve power.
17" 2.2GHz i7 Quad-Core MacBook Pro  8G RAM  750G HD + OCZ Vertex 3 SSD Boot HD 

Late 2011 Macbook Pro Restarts When Power Connected

I have a late 2011 Macbook Pro, 2.2 GHz with 8GB Ram with OS X 10.8.2 and a series of unfortunate events.
When I connect the magsafe adapter to the computer, after it has been shut down completely overnight, with the lid closed, the Macbook attempts to restart. The restart fails beause the lid is closed but leaves my Macbook in an unstable state. Unless I do a PRAM reset whenever this happens, I will have at least one random shutdown, usually within the first half hour of use after the computer restarts itself. I have also reset the SMC controller, checked the hard drive for errors and tested the memory. I have been careful to make sure that the computer shuts all of the way down before closing the lid and disconnecting power. As far as I can tell at this point, starting the computer on battery, and subsequently connecting the magsafe adapter, does not cause any problems.
I never saw this behavior until I installed Mountain Lion.

Run an Apple hardware test and see if that picks up any problems. If this phenomenon is consistently repeatable, I recommend taking it to a repair facility for a diagnosis. This clearly is not normal operation. I hope that you might be still in the warrantee period.
Ciao.

No Power Nap option Late 2011 MacBook Pro

Here is what the specs for Power Nap say:
Power Nap
Supports MacBook Air (Mid 2011 or newer), MacBook Pro with Retina display.
Does that mean that Power Nap is not supported with my Late 2011 MacBook Pro?

reveusetoujours wrote:
I was reading that it is because one of the requirements is flash storage, , so I don't think it will be coming in an update. I have a Feb 12 MBP and probaly won't get the upgrade either.
I had read that too. Fortunately, I meet that requirement. I have one of those expensive Apple SSD's. So that was not my problem. Sadly, I just don't have the right hardware for this feature.

Installing 8gb of ram into 2011 macbook pro 13inch now its got no power.

i was installing 8gb of ram into 2011 macbook pro 13inch and I Accidently installed it while the battery was ran out. Now its got no power and it doesnt charge.
Any help please!

Did you disconnect the battery cable when you installed the RAM? Make sure the cable is connected?

HT204032 Late 2011 MacBook Pro Power Nap

I have a late 2011 MacBook Pro with a SSD from factory. Is there a way for me to have the power nap feature? I have tried the new firmware for the retina MBP but will not work. Theoretically there is no reason it can't work on the device I have 8gb RAM and a 256GB Solid State Drive.

Power Nap requires a Mac notebook with built-in flash storage. May require a firmware update.

After upgrading to Yosemite my wifi is not working on my 2011 MacBook Pro. What happened Apple? Wifi was fine on Mavericks.Yosemite was free. I guess you get what you pay for.

Why is my wifi not working after I installed Yosemite to my 2011 Macbook pro?

Keep it connected to the Power for a while.
Start up in Safe Mode.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14204?viewlocale=en_US
Any Bluetooth mouse with failing batteries nearby?

I spilled on my 2011 macbook pro, will not charge

I spilled hot chocolate on my 2011 macbook pro, and it only got along the bottom front left edge of the computer, and not into any ports or on my charger. Charger was plugged in at the time. Computer shut off a couple of minutes after, so I restarted it,and the fan was running very loudly. \the trackpad was a little bit messed up, so I did an SMP reset and the computer is now fine. However, my charger will not work. When plugged into the laptop, it doesn't charge and the light doesn't come on, though it has no visible damage. Is the problem with the laptop or charger? Could the computer have damaged he charger at the time of the spill? Could the hot chocolate have seeped into the seam on the bottom of my computer? It was only wet for about 15 seconds.

Normally, if electronic device suffers from the accident of liquid spill, you should shut down them and plug off power supply immediately to avoid possible electricity broken. In fact, it is not easy to detect visible damage by visual look. In regard to your example, i mean hot chocolate actually penetratres electronic component inside your computer and cause the fault for hardware system. What you need to do is remove the computer case and try to dry internal electrical circuit out. If this method doesn't work, you should bring to repair service. Good luck !

How do i access my installer disc on a 2011 macbook pro as they are virtual now, i have tried to use command r and hold shift on start up

I have, a 2011 macbook pro with osx lion, last year it died, by doing the not getting past the logo and startup gear, i tried doing the data screen repair where u type some code and try and repair, that didnt work so i took it to genius bar and it wasnt in warrenty and they were gonna charge me but as was only 3 weeks over the warrenty period, so they did for free, and the harddrive they installed had a 90 day warrenty and that is ova now, and my mac has now done the same thing again and this time i think was a power interruption at some point and now has a fault, another thing that crossed my mind is that yes this has done this but could they have (to save money and not right offf a new one) given me my same harddrive back and jus wiped it now 5 months down the track its broken again?
The laptop isnt even 18 months old and has broken down twice, my old macbook had 4 5 years not a hiccup.
In conclusion i need to get photoes off it and cant seem to activate safe mode, or do i know how to access the startup disk that the guy did at genius last time, or get to the data screeen that allowed me to attempt to repair the drive. Can someone help me please, i have tried command r and holding shift, meither have worked.

It's hard to know whether your hard drive has actually failed or if your system has just gotten badly corrupt. If the former, unfortunately, there may be no way to get any data off the drive at this point. If there aren't any backups of that data, it will be gone forever, unless perhaps a high-priced (ie, in the thousand dollar range) data recovery service has some luck with it.
If the system and/or hard drive are badly corrupt, the same may be true. Some or all of that data may be irrevocably corrupt by now. However, there are some ways that you can attempt to recover from this situation without paying such huge fees. First, if you have access to another Mac, and both have Firewire ports, you can connect the two using Firewire target disk mode. This will mount the damaged drive as if it were an external hard drive on the second Mac, and could allow you to copy some data from the drive.
Another possibility would be to buy an external hard drive, install Mac OS X on it and boot the machine from that, then copy any data from there that you can.
In both of these cases, it may be helpful to scan the damaged drive for recoverable files using something like Data Rescue.
There are also some possible ways to repair the drive if you can't do either of those things, but any repairs at this point could potentially destroy data. I only recommend this as a last resort. Still, if all other options have failed, try repairing the drive using DiskWarrior. This can fix problems that Disk Utility (and fsck, the command-line tool that it sounds like you may have used) cannot. It is possible that DiskWarrior will be able to get the drive back in working order long enough to get the data recovered, though of course it's also possible the process will be destructive.
If none of the above work, you'll have to seek professional help.

Early 2011 MacBook Pro- The thermal paste discussion.

It is my goal to clear up the questions and concerns Apple customers have been having regarding heat or fan related concerns with Early 2011 MacBook Pros. If your MacBook Pro was produced within the last few months the thermal issue has been resolved and it will likely not be in issue for you. If you are still wondering if your computer is effected or what the real issue is keep reading.
The MacBook Cools itself by 2 main methods: active and passive. The active cooling is via a fan that blows air through a heatsync and into a tube called a heat pipe which leads to the back of the computer where the hot air is discharged through a vent at the bottom of the screen behind the hinge. The fan lowers the air pressure inside the case causing outside air is drawn in the case, displacing the hot air inside and helping to cool the other components.
The computer uses passive cooling to remove the residual heat from the processor which comes mostly in the form of radiant heat. Passive cooling is also used to cool the other components of the computer (memory, disk drives, battery etc). Passive cooling works by conductive heat transfer ie. syncing to the case of the computer. Some of the heat then is radiated. Some of it is transferred from the outside of the case via convective cooling; the foot pads on the bottom cover are designed to raise it up just enough to allow air underneath for convection to occur. (Convection is the process in which hot air to rises and is displaced by cooler air.) The rest of the heat from the bottom cover is absorbed by whatever surface you have the computer on.
The processor will not sync to the case very much if the board is assembled properly however the other components of the computer will, requiring the case to be in open air to allow for passive cooling to take place.
If you have some sort of covering such as a plastic snap on case it will likely interfere with passive cooling in all of it's 3 of it forms, this will cause the computer to be abnormally hot. I recently saw someone in the Apple store with a MacBook Air experiencing abnormal heating due to a plastic snap case so this particular problem is not unique to MacBook Pros and it is not the cause of the issue being discussed here. I do not recommend the use or anything that covers the computer while it is running with the exception of something that covers the back of the display panel only. If you are worried about your computer getting damaged go and buy a laptop insurance policy from Worth Ave group. The insurance does not cover cosmetic damage or misplaced items but will cover accidental damage including spills. This insurance also covers theft, vandalism and natural disasters, is quite inexpensive and the claims process and deductible is similar to most phone insurance plans (which they also offer).
User induced overheating can also occur when the computer is placed on an improper surface such as a couch cushion, car seat, bed, pillow etc. Doing this can interfere with both passive and active cooling.
As I mentioned earlier In all likelihood if your computer was produced after May it is not affected. I personally have been in posession of 3 MacBook Pros, one produced before May which had the problem, one after which had no problems and one produced more recently that has mind blowing thermal performance way beyond all of my expectations.
So the question at this point is exactly what is the problem, how can it be diagnosed and how can it be rectified.
After extensive research and testing I have determined the issue to be related to improper application thermal paste. I involuntarily became involved in this pursuit as a result of the problems I was experiencing and I did not initially come at from an objective viewpoint but rather one of cautious skepticism. I had anticipated before purchasing my computer that there may be a thermal issue. This anticipaion came as a result of reading an article on ifixit.com about the disassembly of the brand new early 2011 MacBook Pro. When the technician performing the disassembly removed the main heat sync he expressed concern about how much much thermal paste was present, expressing that it seemed excessive. This lead the technician to question wether or not it would cause heating problems.
Proper application of thermal paste is critical to the functionality of the active cooling system and when applied improperly will not properly transfer the heat to the heat-sync which in turn gets cooled by the fan. Proper application of thermal paste insures the heat is removed from the case as efficiently as possible. Doing this both reduces the speed at which the fan needs to run in a lot of situations and prevents too much heat from the processor needing to be cooled by passive means. If is is not applied properly it will eventually lead to overheating of the case as well as the other components of the computer. This can cause damage firstly to the computer's battery and can also significantly shorten the life computer. (Or any other kind of electronic device for that matter.)
The problem can be diagnosed by testing the computer using a program called System Load or any other software that will put your computers proscessor use up to its maximum and keep it there indefinitely. Placing full load on your GPU at the same time during the test is also recommended. Keep in mind, if you are using your computer the fan will spin up if needed for additional cooling. You should expect the fan go up to its maximum speed during the test, it is not in of itself an indication of a negative result. Make sure to have the computer plugged in, fully charged and on a proper surface. A desk or other flat surface should be fine. Exceptions would include the top of a refrigerator since it has insulation just underneath the metal exterior or any surface that is heated by any means such as a dryer or other appliance.
(The temps to follow are in ºF)
Run the test for up to 1 hour. If the case of the computer breaks 93 degrees your unit is likely affected. Expect the unit to even possibly reach temps approaching and exceeding 100º, if this happens immediately abort the test. Also look for the processor temp shooting up to around 180 in the first 30 seconds and the fan spinning up right away. Typically on a properly functioning unit the temperature of the case will end up being somewhere in the neighborhood of 88-91º. If this test is preformed in a room with a normal ambient room temperature of about 68 degrees. Even after an hour the case of the computer should not be significantly hot, just warm to the touch. On a normally operating unit the fan will start to kick in within 90 seconds or so and may not reach full speed even after several minuets.
At one point the case of my computer actually reached 95º during normal web browsing.
This is a problem that I have had successfully corrected twice by reapplication of thermal paste. The first time was on a machine produced prior to may and the second was after a logic board was replaced at the repair depot. (I suspect the inventory turnover is lower for boards than whole computers resulting in a board from the initial production run being installed in my computer.)
If you forget everything I just wrote remember this. #1 if you are using your computer hard enough the fan will end up running at high speed at some point. #2 This problem is not in any way related to the design of the MacBook Pro, or its use/application. #3 This mostly not a problem of the CPU being too hot; these Sandy Bridge CPUs are rated for 212ºf and will routinely be in the neighborhood of 200º, this is hotter than other chips but well within design limits. #4 I have done everything in my power to make sure that this problem has been corrected and I have every logical and evidenced based reason to believe it has been resolved in machines produced after may. #5 This is not an Apple acknolidged issue. Technicians will tell you that there is no problem because these higher temps are normal and within operating limits and if they weren't the machine would shut itself off. (This is a bit extreme; just like a lot of other devices such as electronics, toaster ovens and space heaters with thermal overload protection this automatic shutoff is intended to occur when damage or risk of fire is imminent because the device is WAY outside of normal operating paramaters.) They will also not tell you when asked what these limits are, that they know what they are or in some cases that such figures they even exsist.
I stake my personal and professional reputation on the accuracy of my findings, it is my job as a private consultant to help my clients to resolve complicated and expensive issues just like this one.
Bottom line if you are having a problem and Apple won't fix it on warranty don't ditch your machine, just pay to have it done yourself. In most cases you can pay have it done at the Apple store. It will probably cost you less than 100.00, and it will not void your warranty as long as the work is done by Apple certified technician. It will be well worth it; after all in spite of this MacBook Pro's are hands down the best portable computers on the market, with an industry leading warranty and support to back it up. On it's worst day Apple's service and support is better than any computer/ consumer electronics company, even on its best day.
I hope this helps to clarify this issue! I also hope it will help anyone affected to resolve the problem instead of resorting to a refund and settling for something else.

hello all
you can try this:
Go to system preferences > settings > built in display > see bottom of window.
check "show mirroring options in the menu bar when available". then click "airplay display" > and select your device.
That's what happened to my MBP - 15-inch, Late 2011 model.

Late 2011 MacBook Pro stuck at spinning wheel of death after a Thunderbolt issue, HD erasing and fresh Lion install from Recovery HD. Please help me!!!

So, I think the title says it all, but to give you a little more info:
I connected my late 2011 MacBook Pro to my TV using a Thunderbolt HDMI adapter, and closed the lid. When I opened it, it wouldn't show the login screen, so I restarted using power button. Got stuck at the Apple logo with the spinning wheel. So I booted the Recovery HD and found out it was a HD problem, so I (reluctantly) erased the HD and installed Lion from scratch. When it rebooted (after DOWNLOADING the Lion components) I got some terminal commands (sorry for not being more specific, still a noob when it comes to Mac) and then the screen faded and a message appeared saying I needed to reboot the computer. So I did. 3 effing times. Then I got stuck AGAIN at the spinning wheel, and I'm currently with that on my screen. I'm trying the forums before calling Apple (my computer's still within the 90 days of warranty) because it's not yet 9 A.M. where I live

can you go back to recovery mode then open disk utility.
in disk utility, higlight the disk, the one saying the brand and size then click on repair disk under first aid tab
if it repairs fine, that's okay
if repair was not successful, go to partition and change current to 1 partition then apply
install lion again
hope this helps

2011 MacBook Pro, 64 bit i7 quad core, upgraded to Lion OSx, Bootcamp installed with Windows 7, wanting to install Windows 8 (don't ask), tried downloading/installing bootcamp 5.0.5033, error message something similar to bootcamp doesn't support this Win

2011 MacBook Pro, 64 bit i7 quad core, upgraded to Lion OSx, Bootcamp installed with Windows 7, wanting to install Windows 8 (don't ask), tried downloading/installing bootcamp 5.0.5033 (both on the mac/windows partitions (actually using a parallel to run Windows)), error message something similar to bootcamp doesn't support this Windows
So the question is am I doing something wrong? Should I just try and install windows 8 through my windows 7 partition and see if I can use the bootcamp 5.05033. Or do I solely have to use the bootcamp to install Windows 8? I'm not too familiar with bootcamp and how it runs.

if you're using parallels and full bootcamp then you're making it 100% more troublesome for youself then it needs to be
bootcamp is running windows directly on the hardware this give full memory and cpu and 3d video game power
running windows in parallels is running a virtual machine where one can't run powerful games and the like but one can have it in a window and change fast between osx and windows
parallels as the only virutal machine (as far as I know) support not have the operating system as a file on the osx harddisk but can access a bootcamp parition as virtual machine but without the benefits bootcamps provides
it's a service parallels provide for those who want both to play games in normal bootcamp and sometimes use windows in a virutal machine
just install it like a normal virtual machine and you need not worry about bootcamp drivers and the likes
plus it would mean that the windows part would be a part of the timemachine bacup of osx
which it is not when it's in bootcamp

Late 2011 Macbook Pro with SSD Freezing

Hello,
I have a late 2011 macbook pro and about six or so months ago I have it a new lease on live with a Samsung 840 SSD (non pro).
I haven't really had any problems with that until recently - the machine started locking up on wakeup. This meant that the beachball of doom would start and each program would gradually in turn become unresponsive. Shutdown command wouldn't work and would time out, force quit wouldn't open, and although I could move the mouse around and sometimes switch between programs, they didn't work and the only cure was to hold the power button until it switched off.
This has also started happening just when the computer has been on for a certain amount of time *without sleeping*. For example, if I watch an episode of a tv show, by the end of it the video is still running but all of the other programs are locked up - clicking out of VLC causes the beachball of doom. This also happens in other programs - it's even happened as I've been writing this, and the only remedy seems to be a hard restart.
The problem doesn't seem to occur in windows. In OSX I have 'put hard drives to sleep' turned off, and TRIM enabled. I also disables the sudden movement sensor. I have also reset the SMC.
Does anyone know of a remedy short of a full reinstall of Mountain Lion?
Oh and I used samsung magician in windows to update the firmware of the drive. It reports that the drive should be fine.
Thanks very much for any help anyone can give me with this!

anything is possible - corrupt files - corrupt drivers - it could be anything.
try doing a nvram/pram reset and see if that sorts it out.
i have ssd installed in all my Macbook/Macbook Pro and have never had any issues.
Then again, I don't have windows installed in any of them.
hopefully the nvram/pram reset sorts it out for you.
once you've done that reset - go back to system preferences - startup disk and select your ssd as the startup drive again - then restart it again.

Late 2011 MacBook Pro (Mountain Lion 10.8.2) backlight keyboard not functioning properly?

I have a late 2011 MacBook Pro running OS X Mountain Lion 10.8.2 and for some reason, the automatic backlight keyboard will not funtion as it should. When I have the "Adjust keyboard brightness in low light" option enabled in settings, and I turn on the lights, my backlight keyboard stays at full brightness. Then, when I turn off the keyboard, then the lights, the keyboard does not turn on! Correct me if I'm wrong, but I am pretty sure that this was a feature in the MBP lines.

Try a SMC reset. Shut down the computer. Plug in the MagSafe power adapter to a power source, connecting it to the Mac if its not already connected. On the built-in keyboard, press the (left side) Shift-Control-Option keys and the power button at the same time. Release all the keys and the power button at the same time. Press the power button to turn on the computer. Note: The LED on the MagSafe power adapter may change states or temporarily turn off when you reset the SMC.

2011 Macbook Pro No power

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