3 questions: Time Warp, High Def, and DVDs

3 questions:
1. If I am wanting to slow down or speed up a shot how do I go about doing that in FCE?
2. If I shoot in High Def, how do I make a video copy for people without High Def? Is there a way?
3. In the past I have had some trouble with some DVDs being read in certain DVD players. Is there a specific type of DVD that is better all around?

1. Modify>Speed
2. Export to QuickTime Conversion and change it to a different format.
3. This can be caused by many different things. The most likely cause is the type of media used. You should try this question on a forum for DVD creation, like iDVD or DVD Studio Pro. It's really nothing to do with anything that can be fixed in FCE.

Similar Messages

  • What size should i save my pictures to make a good high def. DVD?

    Ok, I am using Elements 10 with Premere 10 to create a DVD high definition movie of our trip to Rome to display on our hi def tv. What I want to know is what size should I save my pictures after fixing them. The JPEGS are usually saved to around 2 mb while the NEF's are saved around 6-11 mb's.  I am afraid that the 2 mb files will not retain enough data to show well on the high def TV and maybe the 11 mb pictures may be overkill resulting in long rendering times and larger movie sizes. Anyone have any information on this. Both the Elements 10 and Premere 10 manuals don't address this. The only thing I could find was that they support up to 4086 x 4086 size pictures. Thanks in advance

    Hi,
    I am not an expert on this subject but since nobody has replied yet, I thought I would give you my current thoughts on the subject so then someone can either confirm it or shoot me down in flames.
    If we are talking about a HD TV, they have a screen resolution of about 1920 x 1080 or 1360 x 768 so if your images are greater than that, something has to do some down sizing.
    I think that a normal DVD can has a limitation on size of 720 x 480 (NTSC) or 720 x 576 (PAL). To get a greater resolution than that you need to talk about Blu-ray.
    The important thing to think about is the aspect ratio. The widescreen TVs are 16:9 and your photos are probably 4:3. If you want a full screen picture without black margins each side then I suggest that you do some cropping first.
    I tend to crop to 16:9 aspect ratio (using crop tool) and then resize the image to 1920 x 1080 (using image resize). I use a larger size if I know I want to use pan & zoom effects. I use that size, even though some pixels will be lost, just in case I switch to Blu-ray in the future and it might save a bit of work then.
    Hope that helps (and is correct)
    Brian

  • How can I use both high def (16:9) and regular def (4:3) in the same video?

    I'm editing a load of video, some of it was shot in 16:9 high-def and some in 4:3 regular-def. Id really hate to see the 4:3 footage go to waste. What can I tack on to the black sidebars on either end of this footage to fill in the gaps? I've also seen on TV where the sidebars on old 4:3 footage is blurred out by video from that particular frame. How can I do this?

    Just duplicate the footage and superimpose.
    Stretch the underlaying footage to fill the screen and add a blur.

  • I need to clarify before Purchase of High Def Cam

    Probably a stupid question, hope its the right thread, but hey! so here goes:
    I'm new to high def and about to purchase an HD cam. As Apple and BluRay arent the best of friends at the moment (maybe a bit strong?!), i.e don't have the full array of output options as you do with SD, Im assuming I can just edit away in either AVCHD or HDV without the use of any other third party s/ware and just using my Finalcut Studio 2 I am able to produce a standard definition DVD in DVD Studio Pro?

    Unless you are using a hardware assist like the AJA HDIO or one the the blackmagic devices, which will connect to an HDV camera and do the transcode on capture, capturing HDV over firewire and transcoding to ProRes 422 causes a significant lag: that is, when you stop the camera the process continues for some time. I don't even know if you can do a full one hour tape, for example. That said (which I read on this board), in my limited tests to a single, internal SATA drive (the second one, not the system drive) on my G5 Quad, at least two minutes were captured using the ProRes422 for HDV "easy setup" without any lag (two clips, starts a new clip at camera start/stop), and the display showing "real time capture" the entire two minutes.
    But, while capturing HDV to a ProRes sequence, you can only do "capture now" and not capture and log. So if you need to recapture for whatever reason, you don't just get to use the log. You basically position the tape where you want it, start up "log and capture" and a screen appears, starts up your tape and begins capturing until you hit escape. There is an annotation in the window indicating how much behind things might be. Mine said "capture in real time" for my two minute test. A new clip is created on each camera start/stop, however.
    So, if you are willing live without log and capture, it's a faster way to to as you note.
    Oh, and AVCHD is a more consumer format with lower quality (so far) than HDV. HDV is 25mb/s; AVCHD is around 17mb/s, and with claims of true HD (1920x1080 rather than HDV's 1440x1080), there is significantly more compression. Check out camcorderinfo.com for some camera reviews of both types where compression and its artifacts are discussed.
    Ed
    Message was edited by: Edward A. Oates
    Message was edited by: Edward A. Oates
    Message was edited by: Edward A. Oates

  • Time warp by source frame?

    How do you use this?
    I want a portion of a clip to extend to a certain time, I know I can use other methods than time warp. But, I want to try various settings that I see related to time warp. The documentation says adjust by source from is for setting a time where a frame is supposed to occur. Great. How do I do that? If I type a frame number into the source frame control, what is it doing? How do I specify that frame occur at a specific time?

    I figured out how it works. I was confused because the frame is frozen on the keyframe and I hadn't added a keyframe at the end.
    I did this:
    Enable timewarp and adjust by source frame
    Move to frame 0. enable animation. type the inpoint frame number from the footage and press enter.
    Move to the frame to adjust. Type the frame it should be moved to and press enter.
    Move to the end of the clip. Type the frame number that matches the end of the clip moved by the number of frames the 2nd keyframe was adjusted by.
    Thanks. But, I am asking about time warp.
    This seems close to giving the answer, because it at least uses source frames:
    High quality retiming from 30 to 25 fps using After Effects
    But, it involves changing fps. So, I am not able to think of how that would work for me, at the moment.
    There are these things:
    Frame to move 270
    Frame at current desired position 247
    Frame at start of selection 226
    Maybe some of these are where you set a keyframe:
    Keyframe at start
    Keyframe at desired position
    Keyframe at current position
    When I select a clip to add to the composition and then select time warp from effects and select "Adjust time by source frame", the composition panel displays the first frame of the original footage.
    The after effects help says that you can click the stopwatch to set a keyframe at "the current time" for that property value. Which current time?
    If I click the stopwatch icon in effects controls for the source frame property, it stays selected. How do I indicate that I now want to go to a different location and set a keyframe?
    If I knew how to set the keyframes, how would I tell it to now apply the time warp effect?
    If I use the animation menu instead, there is an option to set a keyframe at the current source frame. Selecting that toggles the stopwatch icon, leaving me with the same questions.
    If I click the triangle next to timewarp field in the composition window that lists clips, I can get at a diamond shaped icon to set key frames. I think I have set 3 keyframes at start, desired position for the end and the current position of the frame I want to occur at that position. Meanwhile the source frame property still says 226. If I scrub the composition windows displays that frame only...
    I have no clue what I am supposed to do.
    I missed this part of the documentation:
    If you choose Source Frame for Adjust Time By, then you must animate the Source Frame property to do anything other than freeze on one frame.
    But, so far, I haven't figured out how you animate the source frame. Whatever value I put in it is the frame that is frozen. I don't see how to then add another step in the animation.

  • HT3209 high def vs standard def

    Just purchased a tv series in high def and it looks like it will take 11h per episode to download.  Would standard def be much faster, and would it be likely that the folks at the itunes store would change this for me?

    You will need to rencode the video to SD. (Use a 16:9 setting and then set the track to 16:9 letterbox and not pan & scan or pan & scan/letterbox)
    Some menu assets may work backwards (you need to start a new project) but chances are you need to redo the menu
    http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=7661019&#7661019
    http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=7492165&#7492165
    has some more info

  • Apple tv video quality vs hd tv and high def dvd's

    ok...i know it supports 1080i, but does the video quality of video in itunes really look good compared against say a blu-ray disc, or hdtv signals? i'm sure it will get better (with a hardware or software upgrade?) if its not close to high def quality but want to know what i'm in store for if i buy appletv now...thanks. PS: i currently have directv HD and a ps3 for blu-ray, and my tv's are all HD...

    Based on my own testing, the distinctions between an HD-DVD movie (which are true 1080) and an Apple TV video converted as its own maximum settings (which is 720) is actually quite noticeable if you have a 1080 TV set, but at the same I don't consider it a show-stopper. I watch a lot of HD broadcast content that's only 720p, and it's still very good.
    An HD-DVD or Blu-Ray DVD will normally be in 1920 x 1080 resolution (1080p or 1080i, generally depending on your equipment). The Apple TV's maximum resolution is 1280 x 720 (basically 720p). Therefore, even an original HD-DVD or Blu-Ray DVD converted to Apple TV will need to be scaled down to 720p for display on the Apple TV.
    Further, Elgato EyeTV actually scales these down somewhat lower, so HDTV recorded content could be even worse-off, depending on the original source. The standard Apple TV export settings use a 960 x 540 frame in order to keep the bit-rate and frame rate within tolerances (since a 720p signal is approximately 60fps, and the bitrates will generally exceed 5-6 mbps, which pushes the limits of the Apple TV).
    Even more interestingly, Elgato's new turbo.264 dongle will only encode in "Apple TV" format at a maximum resolution of 800 x 600 (and if you do the math you will realize that this will be considerably less for a 16:9 aspect ratio video).
    The result is that videos converted from an EyeTV Hybrid are technically much worse off on the Apple TV than viewing the original source material. Whether this is significant enough to be noticeable will depend on your output medium, but on my 62" DLP, the difference is quite apparent (although still far superior to an SDTV signal).
    You can get 1280 x 720 content to play back at 60fps at 5mbps bit-rates on the Apple TV by using ffmpeg-based encoders and manually selecting higher settings, although it's been hit-and-miss in my own testing, and of course it creates gargantuan files. Elgato and others have obviously tried to stay with the more conservative settings to ensure that they can guarantee the broadcast possible range of support.
    In fact, although most of the standard encoder settings max out at 2.5-3.0 mbps, I've successfully pushed up to 6 mbps through the Apple TV, although such content has to be synced rather than streamed, since even an 802.11n network has a hard time keeping up (it worked, but there were some drop-outs and glitches in the process). Of course, 6mbps content is going to fill up the Apple TV hard drive pretty quickly as well (you'd only be able to fit around 11 hours on the internal 40GB hard drive).
    The other thing to keep in mind with DVD movies is that they come from film, which is a 24fps source (based on the physical nature of film). As a result, the distinctions between a 720p and 1080i signal are less prevalant when dealing with film content, since you won't get the full 60fps HDTV capabilities anyway. Interlacing can still create some nasty side-effects, but it's far less of an issue when you're dealing with less than half of the normal frames.
    In my own experiences, I have an Apple TV that is connected to a 1080p upscaling DLP TV (native 1080i input, internalized de-interlacing), and a second Apple TV that is connected to a 720p LCD TV. With the first Apple TV, I can notice the difference between 720p and 1080i output settings only when viewing photos, since the remainder of the standard content doesn't exceed 720p anyway. Further, because my TV de-interlaces a 1080i signal to 1080p, I don't get the flicker that is normally associated with a 1080i signal.
    On the second Apple TV, I leave the setting to 720p, since that's the native resolution of the second TV, and I get noticeable interlacing-based flickering on the 1080i, particularly with photo slideshows (mostly in the transitions).

  • Basic Mac vs PC question and High Def Video

    When it comes to the issue with editing High Def video I was under the impression that it is a matter of "computing Power". The reason I ask this is although I would love to transition to a mac I am able to buy a i7 based pc with a 1024MB video card for the same price it would cost me to buy a iMac with core 2 duo chip and a 256MB card. I realize I get afar superior monitor with imac but right now that is not the priority. The priority is running and editing High Def Movies. Thanks for your feedback

    The graphics card itself probably won't make any difference (except on new Macs and software with Open CL support as it uses the idle power in the GPU to assist the CPU).
    However, in your case, lots of ram, lots of hard drive space and a fairly decent CPU is what you require.

  • When is it time to invest in a high-def editing setup?

    I own a ten year old digital editing appliance that I'm considering replacing with Final Cut Pro. I want to start work on some niche documentaries that I plan to sell online. I made one documentary at home about six years ago that I still sell online.
    I've never bought a HD TV because I don't watch broadcast television. I find conventional DVDs on high-def screens very grainy in image quality ... downright unwatchable ... so to this day I still watch all my DVDs (homemade and store-bought) on a big tube television set.
    Personally, I don't want a high-def TV for watching old movies and 70's TV shows on DVD. I'm perfectly happy with my tube TV, my 2001-era editor, and my twelve year old standard-definition Sony PD150 cancorder which I just had serviced and cleaned.
    Heck, 20% of my viewing pleasure still comes from videocassettes, which I can get at the Goodwill for 25 cents a piece.
    But ... now... I have some ideas for some new niche video products. Only problem is ... I haven't followed the conversation about high-def at all. I'm wholly and utterly ignorant. Pretty much all I know is that BluRay won the format war … and I know I can look up 720p, 1080p, 1080i should that information become important.
    That's the extent of my knowledge. I honestly have no idea whether my Sony PD-150, my old editor, and single-layer DVDs would be just fine ... or whether they would result in a bunch of refund requests when I start selling these new DVDs I want to make.
    God help me. I just don't keep up with what other people are doing.
    And googling "do-I-need-to-dump-my-90's-era-digital-camcorder-and-standard-definition-editing- appliance-in-favor-of-ten-thousand-dollars-worth-of-new-high-def-cam-and-editing -gear-if-I'm-going-to-make-another-sellable-DVD" didn't really yield much.
    Can anyone help me here?
    1) Is anyone in the lower-mid-range video business … like a budget wedding guy or a niche how-to video … still using standard-def stuff to churn out acceptable product in high volume?
    I've sold hundreds of copies of my DVD online and two weeks ago I got my first ever refund request … the guy berated me for selling a DVD in standard definition when (he said) the "commercial standard" now is high-def. No one else has ever complained. So now I'm left wondering if this guy is the first of a new generation of customers who would not tolerate a standard-def product … or if he's just a dork who needed to complain about something.
    2) How does manufacturing a high number of copies of a high-def video work? My 50-minute standard-def movie fit wonderfully on an inexpensive 4.7GB DVD. Running off copies was cheap and painless. I understand that high-def discs are some 25GB. Are you guys with your new Mac and Final Cut Pro working with HD buying these expensive discs for large volume runs? Are even decent bread-and-butter wedding shoots or corporate training films these days getting burned to BluRays?
    3) Does it make sense to trade in a perfectly good 90's high-end standard definition digital cam for a new HD cam when I'm still going to burn it to a conventional DVD?
    4) Is my gear still perfectly acceptable for budget projects? I really don't want to pay for Final Cut Pro and a HD burner ... I would only get one if my old editor is flat-out obsolete, which it certainly isn't for editing home movies.
    Note: "Budget" does not mean poorhouse. I'm talking about "working" niche videos … competent (non-broadcast) megachurch sermon DVDs … homemade documentaries … non-Rolls-Royce weddings … small business promo videos ...
    … the stuff that working joe videos are made of.
    What constitutes "reasonable and acceptable" these days, when just about everybody has a high-def TV set they're watching these things on?

    When I made the move from SD it was painful. It was just before the digital broadcast change over and when I hooked up my new Samsung 37" HD TV to my cable box I almost hurled.
    since then, almost all of the broadcasters have caught up with HD transmission and almost all broadcast stuff in 1080i or 720p look amazing.
    Standard Def DVDs are another story. Well done commercial SD DVDs can look quite nice when playing back through my new Samsung Blu-ray player. The folks who compress down to SD for the big studios are indeed rocket scientists and they're doing things that most of us simply can't afford to do.
    Plus, the scaling technology in players and TVs has come a long way as well. So Don't throw out your standard DVDs just yet.
    Should you consider a Hi Def camera? I'd say Yes, The time has come. If all you were doing was posting 480P online I'd say use your camera til it croaks. but the optical delivery is a factor for you.
    Authoring your own BD for mass duplication? That's a little more complicated still. There are licensing issues involved in Blu-ray authoring which are complex. It's one of the reasons that we probably won't see Blu-ray hardware in Macs for a while. I don't think you can duplicate as easily as you can with DVD. You can burn your own one at a time if that's a possibility for you.
    Shooting HD and delivering SD DVDs? It can be done. But compressing so that you end up with a satisfactory product is sort of a black art. You'll see lot's of discussions online about how many people are disappointed with HD to DVD, some claiming that their SD to DVD projects actually look better.
    My latest technique for getting respectable DVDs is to first downrez in Mpeg Streamclip to an anamorphic SD file still in the Prores codec. Then I use Bitvice to do the mpeg2 file.
    The bottom Line.
    If you can afford it, get a new camera, BD burner and learn how to author BD. The authoring software is not fully baked yet for mac users but you should definitely head in that direction ASAP. You can even incorporate SD footage in an HD timeline and the SD footage is much more palatable than SD DVD.
    On the up-side, you might be happy to know that you missed the worst of it. Be thankful that you were able to put it off so long. There are many other people out there who rode the bleeding edge and suffered a great deal of economic and emotional trauma.
    good Luck!
    g

  • Buring DVD in High Def

    I have a Canon AVCHD camcorder. Can I burn my movies in High Def on my Mac?

    Yes, you can - iMovie supports HD (and it'll be excellent quality, but not blu-ray quality) and you can get up to 2 hours on one DVD. You might want to open iMovie, click on Help and type in HD quality - it will give you lots of information on HD quality, file size, etc.
    Another option would be to consider purchasing Toast (including their HD plugin); they claim you can burn blu-ray quality onto regular DVDs (that would be where you'd get about 30 minutes of video onto a regular DVD). Check it here:
    http://www.roxio.com/enu/products/toast/
    (click on compare and the popup will show that you can author HD content to DVD)
    Check the iMovie compatibility list for your camcorder here:
    https://support.apple.com/kb/HT3290
    If you have a problem importing into iMovie, I'd suggest posting a question in the iMovie forum; there are some very knowledgeable people over there.

  • Want to make first high-def DVD

    I would like to start burning high-def DVDs. After searching this forum, it seems that (a) iDVD is not yet set up to burn full high-def video to DVD and (b) Toast 10 might be the best option.
    How do I determine if my Mac Pro has the appropriate hardware to burn to a blu-ray DVD? Will Toast 10 burn to a blu-ray DVD that will work in a blu-ray player? If the duration of the video is sufficiently short, can it be burned to a standard DVD and, if so, will it play back in full high-def on a blu-ray player?

    If you want to make a homemade DVD look professional, you need:
    1. Cameras with better color
    2. Tripod
    3. Excellent lighting
    4. Professional encoder for mpeg2; with software, set it to multipass and maximum quality. It may take many times real time to encode
    5. Proper shooting techniques, so that you're not always moving or panning, which would tax the encoder
    6. Color correction, to make it as vivid as desired
    7. Proper optics, i.e. something with a short depth of field to add complexity to the image
    8. Proper directing
    9. A format of film or video which is not highly compressed (like HDV or AVCHD) and introduces artifacts
    10. A proper soundtrack and sound editor, which will make it "look" better
    11. Dual layer discs allow you to increase your bitrate
    So, a homemade DVD and a professional one have very little in common. The fact that they are both SD has little to do with anything.
    Jeremy

  • Burning High Def DVDs

    I've been reading quite a few posts on this topic, but it seems I'm always missing something:
    First, I have bought Snow Leopard but have not installed it yet. I'll be using iMovie 09.
    I'm considering buying the Canon Vixia HG21 which needs IM 09 for transferring and editing High Def signal. Up until that point, I'm clear on what to do.
    It's what happens then where it's nebulous.
    I understand that I'll need Toast to create Blu Ray disks, but what happens to the menus and fancy intros with music we get with iDVD? Is there any way to get them?
    If I create short movies (15-20 min max) that can fit on "regular" DVDs, I assume I can still get the High Def signal, but how/where can they be played? I don't have a Play Station. I know I'm looking at investing money to get a High Def TV and something that can read the DVDs (Blu Ray or not) I'll be creating, but I'm unsure on what to get and rather ask questions now than discover too late I made the wrong choice.
    Thanks for any insights.

    Bought Roxio Toast 10 Pro...

  • How do I get itunes to stop downloading john adams high def every frickin time i go to itunes?

    Every time I go to itunes, it starts downloading john adams in high def (only 11 hours to go)! I have watched john adams, I am done with john adams, i don't want it, it is taking all my downloading time, how do i make it stop forever? I don't ever want to go to itunes again because of this.

    Use these instructions to turn off automatic downloads, or click here and request assistance.
    (81250)

  • High Def Podcasts and the Classic

    I recently downloaded 2 High Def Podcasts and then converted them to "iPod viewing". The last message I recieve when syncing my Classic is that it cannot moved these HD Podcasts over.
    Anyone else have a similar issue or know how to tell if the podcasts have actually been converted?

    Welcome to the forums.
    FCP doesn't support the format now, and there is no word when support will occur.
    If the camera has an HDMI interface, then the Black-Magic Intensity card is the one for you. And $300 is as cheap as it gets. Unfortunately I think it only works with FCP, and not iMovie. iMovie HD can only capture via firewire, and it doesn't support that format. FCP and that card (need a MacPro or Quad to use that card) are the only options at this time, and it captures footage as a workable format.
    Shane

  • Re: high def video and software

    I purchased a Sony High Def Video Camcorder.
    It is the SR1.
    How soon will MAC offer software (e.g. final cut or imovie)
    that will allow me to edit the high definition video?
    I have heard that Blackmagic offers a card that allows you to run the video into the computer - will I need this card to run the video into imovie or final cut express?
    Thanks,
    Martin
    PS Are there other HDMI cards for mac that are cheaper than $300 and is there any MAC editing software for HIGH DEF already out there?

    Welcome to the forums.
    FCP doesn't support the format now, and there is no word when support will occur.
    If the camera has an HDMI interface, then the Black-Magic Intensity card is the one for you. And $300 is as cheap as it gets. Unfortunately I think it only works with FCP, and not iMovie. iMovie HD can only capture via firewire, and it doesn't support that format. FCP and that card (need a MacPro or Quad to use that card) are the only options at this time, and it captures footage as a workable format.
    Shane

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