3 yr old Samsung LCD going bad

bought a 46 inch Samsung series 530 LCD TV exactly three years ago. is it normal for horizontal lines to run accross the screen and one side to distort repetitively? not pleased. these TV's in theory are supposed to last a couple decades but this once seems to be approaching it's last days! think I paid 1300 for this, three years for that kind of money is rediculious!

   RoHS is an EU standard that is for Restriction of Hazardous Substances, like lead, mercury, cadmium, hex chrome, and some phenols. While this does impact some quality issues, it does not necessarily mean that the components that are RoHS compliant have a shorter lifespan. In fact it has lead to product improvement in many cases.
The problem described by jshaf is typically caused by connections to the LCD panel from the driver boards. In their case the horizontal driver boards are in question. The connection issue is a well-known problem in the LCD industry. The problem is worse in areas that have large changes in temperature and humidity like in unheated basement rec rooms. It is also exasperated by having the unit near heating or cooling vents which cause fast changes in temperature.
   It could also be the driver chips themselves that have gone bad. This could be from an electrical surge like a nearby lightning strike or a bad swap over at the local substation. In which case a power conditioner, surge suppressor or UPS, may have helped prevent the problem.
   In any case there is little to do with the TV’s LCD panel at this point, short of sending the unit in for repair. The cost of repair is prohibitive, around the same cost as a new unit and, when you get it back, you will have a 3 year old repaired LCD panel. So the best thing to do is once you can no longer stand to look at the picture, replace the unit with a new one. I personally miss the old picture tube sets that lasted 20+ years.
   I consider all LCD and Plasma TVs throwaways. Anything that goes wrong, the entire unit needs to be replaced. Very rarely does anything go in these units that is readily repairable. The only way to combat this is with an extended warranty. That way if it can’t be repaired, it will be replaced. Once the extended warranty runs out you are SOL.
- Mark

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MacBook Pro and Samsung lcd

Ok so i have a 52 inch Samsung lcd...until a couple of hours ago everything was working perfect. I had my macbook closed, connected to the LCD, and i was using apple's bluetooth keyboard and mouse and it was just working perfectly.
About 2 hours ago i decided to try to change the resolution on the screen to make things bigger. I changed to the first resolution and i reverted back to the original cause i could not see...i then did another resolution and i don't know what i did but now my screen keeps saying "mode not supported".
I now have the display on mirror and i have my mac book open (by this i mean the computer's screen is working) and i can see perfectly on the samsung lcd...
When i close the macbook pro though the samsung lcd goes black and then i get "mode not supported"...
Is there any way to "restore" to the original settings i had before? i seriously do not understand why its not working

OS X stored two different preferences for a given display depending on whether it is being run as a sole display (lid down) or a second display (lid up). Unfortunately, the value stored for lid down currently is not useable, and every time the Mac is put in lid down mode, it keeps reverting to that same value.
If you follow the instructions at the bottom of the page in the following link about dealing with the windowserver.plist file, you should be able to get back to a fresh start.
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS2084

Connecting my old iMac G4 to my Samsung LCD TV

I have an iMac G4. The monitor went out years ago and I have been using an external monitor via the display port and adapter. The resolution on the iMac is set to the highest available on the display preferences. The monitor has always worked fine; however, I thought I would connect the iMac to my Samsung LCD TV (it's a few years old - 5 Series 1080). When I connect it to my TV via the "PC" connection option and select "PC" as the source, I see the splash screen (gray), but when the OS boots my TV says "Mode not supported." Anyone have any sage advise for me . . . I would love to utilize my old iMac for renting movies from iTunes.

TVs have very specific resolutions, and your iMac predates widescreens in anything but movie theaters. So long story short, since your iMac can only mirror your built-in (well, attached in the case of the G4 models) you basically have a choice. Either the monitor runs at a resolution the TV can support, which is probably going to be 720x480, you get a special converter box, or you just come to the conclusion most do, and decide it's really just not worth the effort.
If you had one of the newer iMacs where it's either a native 16:9 resolution or you could at least set an independent resolution, this would be much easier. As it is, you're pretty much screwed, sorry.

Macbook Pro to Samsung LCD TV

I'm trying to hook up a MacBook Pro to a Samsung LCD TV (Model: LE40A656A1FXXU) but when I connected it up the message on the screen was something along the lines of 'mode not supported'. Can someone tell me what I need to do? Currently I'm using the external monitor connection on the MacBook Pro to the PC input of the TV.

I recommend not going this route, the exchange did nothing as I expected, with nothing else to try I figured why not.
After calling in about the issue after they had replaced the old macbook they told me that the "apple engineers" were working on it and to just wait out for that to happen.
Also new update,
Computer recognizes the TV when I have MDP->VGA->VGA cable 6'->TV VGA input (but the TV does not recognize the macbook)
*The TV* recognizes the macbook (only) when in addition to the above configuration I connect a 10' VGA extension cable. The would seem to be a resolution but I say the TV sees the macbook but now the macbook can't get the driver info from the Tv and there I am stuck with 1024x768 (stretched).
There is one way trick both devices into working and that is to plug in the MDP->VGa adaptor connect the 6' VGa cable to the MacBook can get the info from the TV. Leave the adaptor connected to the computer and remove the VGA cable from the adaptor assemble the combination of the 6'and 10' cables and then plug it in and it works fine.
Kinda of a pain though when you have to do this everytime you connect the Macbook to the TV.
I really hope apple can get this driver straighten out ASAP.

HD STB hooked up to Samsung LCD TV

Anyone having issues with their STB that is hooked up to a Samsung LCD TV via HDMI? It seems that I have to reset the STD by unplugging the power to the STB at least once weekly due to lost connection. The holdtime for tech support is "shall we say extensive" so the workaround for me is a hard reset which was suggested by Tech support. I also noticed that I can no longer reset any of my 4 STB on line by logging into my account. In the My Services setion on the TV, there is a message there that says "No STB found". Any thoughts?

Thx G-pon.
Some more background here. I had the HDMI go out on my other TV which is Sharp LCD TV while hooked up to the STB. That TV is now hooked up via component and works fine with no issues. I thought that the issue may have been a STB issue with HDMI but it seems like a co-incidence. BTW I had the HDMI checked out by a Sharp authorized service person who confirmed that the HDMI board is infact bad and needs to be replaced for $300. (too expensive)
Also, any thoughts as to the second part of my question regarding vewing and resetting the STB's in my account?

Late 2009 Macbook aluminium Output to Samsung LCD (SyncMaster 710T) problem

Have bought a Mini-Display port to DVI cable for connecting macbook to the Samsung LCD monitor. Output is fine but if i left my desk (with macbook on), and when the Macbook goes to power saving mode or sleep...after i switch it back on, my lcd display flicker and fails. It too fails to get signal at times...am I experience a weird problem?
or there is in fact some fault with my macbook?
or my LCD problem?

Anyone encounters what I am experiencing now?
I noted that there is an update for the Mini-Display Port to VGA.
What about DVI??

'09 mac mini connection to Samsung LCD

I just purchased the new mac mini and am trying to hook it up to my 42" Samsung LCD using the mini display port and a VGA cable. The TV is not recognizing the hookup (PC is not an option in my list of sources). If anyone has any ideas or suggestions on things to try I'd appreciate it! I purchased my TV a little less than three years ago. It's an HD set - model LN-S4092D - in case that helps! Thanks!

tbrodi,
I do have the same stuff. only a newer version of the Samsung and an older mini.
I use a DVIHDMI cable, connect the cable into port 2 on the tv and the audio jack from the mini straight to the input on the tv, the audio out from the tv is going to the recever/amplifier.
At least, that works for me all in full HD
rgrds
McChiel

Samsung LCD TV... Need a good Digital Antenna?

I have a 46" Samsung LCD HDTV (Model #LN46C670). We just purchased an RCA Multi-Directional Amplified Digital Flat Antenna to try and pick up our local channels over the air. I followed the installation instructions to the letter and made sure the settings on the TV were correct but we were still unable to pick up any channels. Anyone else had any luck with digital antennas? What are some of the brands/models you have successfully used with this TV or one like it? Thanks in advance for your help!

lonzom10 wrote:
Understood... all thing are releative. So I guess my first question would be... Is there a way to know for sure whether or not signals are available at my address? If not, what would be the best internal Antenna to use for testing this? An then of course there is my original question... What digital antennas have others used with this specific TV and had success?
There is no difference between a digital antenna and an oldschool analog one whatsoever. It's all marketing BS. The ONLY change to antenna requirements with the digital transition was that antennas no longer need to cover the old 700 MHz TV band - but the performance gains obtainable for redesigning an antenna to not cover those bands any more is so negligible that no one has done it to my knowledge.
http://www.antennaweb.org/ - You can put your address in here and determine what size class of antenna you need. Also, don't bother with RCA antennas, they're crud. Similarly, nearly all antennas with built-in preamps are crud. I haven't seen a single one that published noise figure specifications for their preamp, which says they have something to hide. In most cases they don't even publish specs for the gain of the antenna itself.
Note that the above site can sometimes be inaccurate if you have oddities in your local terrain. Also, if your antenna is indoors, the construction (materials, etc) of your home are important as is whether the antenna is on the side of the house facing the TV stations.
http://www.forums.bestbuy.com/t5/TV-Home-Theater/Which-TV-Antenna-should-I-get-for-the-LCD-TV/td-p/1... - Read my posts here, quite a lot of information about respected brands and specifications to look for.
*disclaimer* I am not now, nor have I ever been, an employee of Best Buy, Geek Squad, nor of any of their affiliate, parent, or subsidiary companies.

No picture etc. on TV.after connecting S video and audio cables fr.HP dv4305US and old Samsung

No picture coming from TV.after installing S video and audio cables from HP 4305 US to 6yrs.old Samsung TV.Much appreciate info on how to correct this.Do I have to have cable TV or a digital TV.converter?

Hi eb
Welcome to Apple Discussions
Could be a bad Dynex adapter, return that one for another and/or cough up the extra $3 for Apples.
I'm now using a Mini-DVD to to DVI and a 21.5 LG monitor, but my Apple Mini-DVI to Video adapter and my 27" Sharp served me well for a couple of years.
See the Tip in > http://support.apple.com/kb/TA23844?
+Tip: To make sure that your iMac automatically detects the external display or projector, be sure you plug the adapter into the external display or projector before you plug it into the iMac.+
Dennis

G4 MDD power button going bad?

Hi all -
I'm using a g4 MDD dual 1gig machine. Has been working great for the past few months, till just now. When I power down, the computer won't restart, unless I unplug it. (what?) That's right, the computer works fine, I turn it off and the power button will not turn the computer on unless I physically unplug the machine for a split second. After that it powers right up (at least for now). Prior to unplugging, the power switch does nothing, no lights, no chimes, nothing. It's like there is no power going to the compuer at all.
Does this sound like the power button is going bad or maybe something else? A few months ago I had PRAM/ PMU issues - could they be coming back?
Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I took care of my power-up issue tonight by working on my power supply. Here is the posting I made in another thread:
Here is what I did to troubleshoot my power issue. Your power supply can be serviced and this post offers a couple thoughts and some troubleshooting suggestions. Please read it through to the end. This isn't a cure-all for all G4 Macs, but the steps I followed seem to cover a number of bases and might prove helpful to those who are really frustrated.
I've owned a Mac every year all the way back to 1987 and have never had an issue until now and I am convinced my problem may have been triggered by a power surge or brown-out, which we seem to have experienced a lot of around here lately. This post refers to the Samsung power supply with Apple Part Number 614-0224.
I have a G4 Dual 1.25 MDD I purchased in 2003. I have had a brief issue with powering up my CPU. It wouldn't power up last weekend. I unplugged the power cord, then reconnected it to the machine and it powered up. I reasoned the power cord had become loose, but then last night I couldn't get it to come up at all. Not even a click. No lights.
So I tried all the easiest possible solutions: resetting the PRAM (pulling the battery from the logic board) and resetting the PMU (Power Management Unit). The switch, by the way, is located near where the ATA drives plug in to the logic board. Neither of those two things solved my problem. The CPU would still not power up.
I checked the lithium battery voltage with a voltmeter. It was at 3.6v, so it was still good.
I then decided my issue was probably with the power supply. With the power cord disconnected from the back of the CPU, I pulled the black power connection from the logic board and performed a power supply voltage test following the pin schematic found in this thread:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58561
The +5v trickle voltage found at Pin 9 was not present. I had no other voltage readings on any of the other pins. My issue HAD to be with the power supply.
Tonight I removed the power supply by disconnecting all of the optical drives (I have two DVD burners in this unit), all of the hard drives (three) and all of the logic board connections.
I removed all of the screws from the outer casing of the power supply, including the fat screws attaching the two black fans to the unit and the one long screw in the middle and near the edge of where the two fans are. The casing came right off.
There have been a lot of questions as to whether there are fuses in these power supplies. There has to be some protection for them and I have yet to see any power supply that did not have a fuse or resettable circuit breaker. This power supply was no different...it has a 250W, 8A fuse that is easily accessible and is located on the same side as the male power socket, near the edge of the circuit board. It is hiding under a yellow shield and is right next to a plastic connector.
Bingo! My fuse was blown. Many glass fuses will show some sort of blackness and mine did, as well as being able to see the actual glob of metal where the fuse burst.
What caused a fuse to blow will be different for each machine. I believe in my case it suffered from a power surge. There were no visible signs of burns from arcing, popped capacitors, shorts or bad chips. The board was completely clean, which tells me the issue was near the power source. The fuse may also have been on the verge of popping when I unplugged and reconnected the power cord.
Everything's speculation, but replacing the fuse did the trick in my case and I saved myself time and about $150 (on average for a used PS on eBay). I picked up a second fuse to tape to the inside of the CPU, near the power supply, so I will have a backup fuse if I need it in the future. I may also have a drive that is going bad, or I may have too many drives operating off one supply. My Mac's been configured like this for about five years now. I will replace at least two drives with new, larger capacity drives. I keep my video and digital image files on separate drives, but have a third drive I can blow out. That surely will help prolong the life of my power supply.
While I had the computer apart I gave it a good vacuum and a little air can action. Dust can aid overheating and defeat the purpose of good airflow from fans.
Hope this helps.

Is my Video Card/Display going bad??

My display has 30-50 vertical columns, from top to bottom, across the screen. Within each column, are numerous vertical lines, like bar codes, that are pink in color. This situation happens at start up before any applications are opened. The computer(apps) works like normal, mail, safari, etc, except these lines are always in my view, on the desktop or window/page. If I "grab" a page to move it , then the whole page turns pink. If I click off of the page and then return, the page looks normal again, except for the columns of pink, vertical bars.
Is this my display going bad or video card?? I have the ATI Radeon X850 XT video card. If it's the video card , do I replace with a new old stock (ATI Radeon X850 XT) or can I replace with a newer, better card??
Any help GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!! I'm Very Novice at this!!

Hi-
Sounds very much like a baked graphics processor.
Have you tried cleaning the dust from the card?
Is the fan on the card clean and rotating freely?
If you are at all mechanically inclined, removing the fan and reapplying thermal compound is worth a try before laying out serious cash.
As for replacement, the X850XT was the top card ever offered by Apple.
It is also THE most rare.
Because of this, they command high prices:
http://www.welovemacs.com/6613594r.html
eBay also has a number of them for similar prices.
Radeon X850XT
can I replace with a newer, better card??
Only one option for better.
A flashed (converted PC version) Geforce 7800GS:
http://www.barefeats.com/mutant3a.html
At less than half the price of the X850XT, it is worth considering:
Geforce 7800 GS.

My Macbook's Hard Drive is going bad, does anyone know a reliable, and cheap replacement.

Hey, the computer still works, but it's in the process of going bad... it's been a little spoty, and I'd like to replace it.
Here are the statistics
Model Name:    MacBook
Model Identifier:    MacBook4,1
Processor Name:    Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed:    2.4 GHz
Number Of Processors:    1
Total Number Of Cores:    2
L2 Cache:    3 MB
Memory:    2 GB
Bus Speed:    800 MHz
Boot ROM Version:    MB41.00C1.B00
SMC Version (system):    1.31f1
Serial Number (system):    W88358WA0P2
Hardware UUID:    0A2F7E4B-23E2-5CA3-B336-D1EBE3BE595A
Sudden Motion Sensor:
State:    Enabled
VERSION 10.6.8
BUILD: 10K549
INTEL-ICH8-M AHCI:
Vendor:    Intel
Product:    ICH8-M AHCI
Link Speed:    1.5 Gigabit
Negotiated Link Speed:    1.5 Gigabit
Description:    AHCI Version 1.10 Supported
FUJITSU MHY2250BH:
Capacity:    250.06 GB (250,059,350,016 bytes)
Model:    FUJITSU MHY2250BH
Revision:    0081000D
Serial Number:            K43CT882P00N
Native Command Queuing:    Yes
Queue Depth:    32
Removable Media:    No
Detachable Drive:    No
BSD Name:    disk0
Medium Type:    Rotational
Partition Map Type:    GPT (GUID Partition Table)
S.M.A.R.T. status:    Verified
Volumes:
Capacity:    209.7 MB (209,715,200 bytes)
Writable:    Yes
BSD Name:    disk0s1
Macintosh HD:
Capacity:    249.72 GB (249,715,376,128 bytes)
Available:    50.31 GB (50,314,424,320 bytes)
Writable:    Yes
File System:    Journaled HFS+
BSD Name:    disk0s2
Mount Point:    /
Thanks for the suggestions.

For a new hard drive try Newegg.com
Regular SATA drives http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=380&name=Laptop-Hard-Dr ives&Order=PRICE Use the list at the left for larger and faster drives.
SSD drives
http://www.newegg.com/Internal-SSD/SubCategory/ID-636?Order=PRICE Use the list at the left for larger and faster drives.
Or OWC for regular hard drives and SSDs http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/hard-drives/2.5-Notebook/
Here are step by step instructions with pictures on replacing the hard drive in a MacBook with a removable battery. http://creativemac.digitalmedianet.com/articles/viewarticle.jsp?id=45088
To transfer your current hard drive I like the applications Carbon Copy Cloner or SuperDuper. They make a bootable copy of everything on your hard drive. http://www.bombich.com/index.html or http://www.shirt-pocket.com/SuperDuper/SuperDuperDescription.html
You'll need a cheap SATA external hard drive case. Put the new drive in the case then format and partition the new drive and clone your old drive to the new one. Check that it's set up right by booting up from the external drive. Then replace your old hard drive with the new one and put your old one in the external case.
Here's a cheap SATA external hard drive case on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Vantec-NexStar-2-5-Inch-External-Enclosure/dp/B002JQNXZC/r ef=pd_cp_pc_0
If you don’t have the tools to open up the MacBook OWC has a set for $5
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/TOOLKITMHD/

Are there any clues that an external hard drive is going bad?

My external hard drive is 2 years old. Are there any clues indicating it is going bad?

Open Disk Utility, select your external disk in the sidebar and verify the drive. If it doesn't show any issuue, the disk works correctly

Matshita DVD-R UJ-85J DVD burning problems - drive going bad? replacement?

I purchased a couple spindles of TDK DVD+R DL discs from Newegg last week; got them yesterday and stuck one in my iMac to start burning some of this stuff I've got backed up (using Toast 10), and ran into a problem... it failed almost immediately with a "medium error."
I tried Disk Utility and it quit in a similar fashion on several discs, never actually burning anything to them.
I've stuck with TDK in the past because they seemed to be the most compatible, but now I was thinking that maybe they changed something in the manufacturing process that caused them to not work anymore.
Fortunately, I have access to a pretty new MacBook and tried using the discs in there, and they worked just fine with the same data and the same version of Toast.
About an hour ago, I pulled out a stack of TDK single-layer DVDs I bought a few months ago (and that worked with no issues in my iMac at that time), and slipped one into my iMac to burn a smaller set of files, and it failed in exactly the same way as the DL discs did yesterday.
Since then, I've been searching everywhere for information on this (including firmware updates and a place to buy a replacement drive) and found very little.
What I did find suggests that the drive might be going bad (or at the very least choked with dust).
I can't find anything solid on what drive I could buy to replace it myself, though.
And I'm not very optimistic about taking it to the Genius Bar, as I don't have AppleCare and it sounds like they would just put in an equally failure-prone Matshita drive that'll be dead within a year.
I'll try cleaning it as soon as I can locate one of those brush discs and see if that helps.
I've also noticed that it will occasionally stop mounting discs until after a restart.

I have a 24" iMac, Approx 2 Years Old, Mine was having the same problems as yours, I had Memorex DL DVD + R and half the time it would spit them back out and the other half it would fail at 50%, when before it would read and write fine. So I figured it was hardware when i was having the same problem on the boot camp side. So two days ago I took it in to the apple store in plano, they looked at it, said they'd put a new drive in, And it was free thanks to the apple care plan I had with it. Just picked it up a few hours ago and I just burned a DL DVD and it worked. So my suggestion is visit your apple store and maybe they'll replace it, ive heard amounts as high as $450 for replacements without the protection plan, maybe you could go firewire/usb external drive?
By the way, I can't remember what drive I had on my machine, wanna say it started with an "O", but they replaced it with a Pioneer, very quiet and seems fast.
Good Luck

Pavilion dv7 horizontal lines - Display going bad?

DV7-7025dx bought in 2012. Today, on boot, horizontal lines right from the moment I turn it on. Lines are so bad I can barely see anything. Booted into windows - lines still there. After a few minutes they cleared up. Powered down, removed battery, reset bios, rebooted. Still there. Is the display/adapter going bad?

Hi ,
Thank you for visiting the HP Forums! A great place where you can find solutions for your issues, with help from the community!
I came across your post about the Notebook, and wanted to assist you! I have looked into your issue about your HP Pavilion dv7 Notebook and issues with the screen flickers and going pink and green. Here is a link to a document that will help you troubleshoot the image on screen flickers, has lines or distorted colors. Have you connected a monitor to the Notebook to check if it happens there as well? Here is a link on how to clean the fans as this could be an issue. If this does not display on the Monitor it could be a connection issue with the LCD screen or the inverter cable. Please let me know how this goes. Thanks.

3 yr old Samsung LCD going bad

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