300w PS, 3.3v-24a, 5v-30a, 12v-12a Should I upgrade my Power Supply?

This post is a spin off of a couple of previous posts I started which raised a few new questions. Here goes: I have a 300w PSU (about 4 years old), 3.3v-24a, 5v-30a, 12v-12a. MSI VIA KM266 Pro, AMD Sempron 2500+, Kingston 256 Mb, Creative Platinum Live 5.1, HP CD burner, WD 80 Gb HD, using on board video for now. What I am wondering is should I upgrade my PS, or should I wait until I get a new Video card? Does my PS have what it takes? I have checked out a new 450w PS, and the rails weren't much higher: 3.3v-30a, 12v-17a. Does this make much difference? Any suggestions on a new PS, oh forum gods ?

Quote from: sonictempledude on 12-March-05, 13:41:06
This post is a spin off of a couple of previous posts I started which raised a few new questions. Here goes: I have a 300w PSU (about 4 years old), 3.3v-24a, 5v-30a, 12v-12a. MSI VIA KM266 Pro, AMD Sempron 2500+, Kingston 256 Mb, Creative Platinum Live 5.1, HP CD burner, WD 80 Gb HD, using on board video for now. What I am wondering is should I upgrade my PS, or should I wait until I get a new Video card? Does my PS have what it takes? I have checked out a new 450w PS, and the rails weren't much higher: 3.3v-30a, 12v-17a. Does this make much difference? Any suggestions on a new PS, oh forum gods ?
IMHO YES! Upgrade now. Antec TruePowers 430 or 480 are what I use.

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12v Power Supply problems on Neo2 plat!

So I just turned on my computer today and after about 2-3 minutes, it turned off. I couldn't power it back on, and I kept hearing a crackling noise coming from the PSU when I would switch it on and off in the back. So I unplugged everything, I didn't plug in the 12v connector to the motherboard, just the normal one, and it powered on. Then I plugged in the 12v connector to the motherboard and I get a crackling noise coming from the PSU???? Could my motherboard 12v be shot or is it my PSU 12v??? The powersupply is only 2 months old also. Thanks
AMD Athlon 64 3000+
MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum
2x512 PDP TCCD PC3200
ATI 9800 pro 128mb
Enermax EG495AX-VE SFMA 2.0 485W PSU
CoolerMaster Aerogauge II
CoolerMaster Hyper 6
4x Vantec Tornado
2x Western Digital 8mb cache
NEC DVD-RW
Lite-On CD-RW

I think you should first borrow a PSU to see if the issue is with the Mobo or your PSU. Then you will have the info. you need to support a claim for an RMA.
DEM

ASSAF, 2k/xp probs

yo, so there is no way my pc is underpowered since i got 450W PSU (http://www.codegenr.com, cant remember model). So what do you think could be causing my NT-kernel-based-os probs???
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By definition the power output (in watts) for a DC electric system is given bt the formula P=U*I where P is the power, U is the voltage and I is the current.
So a power source giving out 12v with a max current of 10A has a max power output of 120W.
But a PSU has many voltages : 3.3v, 5v, 12v, -5v, -12v.
The negative voltages are not important since they have a standard load and are hardly used anyway.
12v is used almost only by the drives (HDD/CD...).
3.3v and 5v are used by the CPU+board+RAM+VGA, these are the heavy power users in the system.
or example a 2.0Ghz williamette P4 can use up to 100W!
Getting out lot's of amps is expensive because it requiers thick copper wires in the transformers and expensive silicon based voltage regulators.
It is easy to see that each amp at 12v will give you 12w, while each amp on the 3.3v will give 3.3w.
So it is cheaper to output lot's of power on the 12v than on the 3.3v+5v where it really matters.
Good power supplies will list the total output on the 3.3v+5v lines, this is much more important that the total power output unless you are running many HDD's.
Here are the specs of a codegen 300w PSU:
3.3v @ 14A
5V @ 30A
12V @ 12A
Combined 3.3v+5v output is 150W
here are the specs of an Aopen 300w PSU:
3.3v @ 20A
5V @ 30A
12V @ 12A
Combined 3.3v+5v output is 175W
here are the specs of an Antec 330w PSU:
3.3v @ 28A
5V @ 30A
12V @ 17A
Combined 3.3v+5v output is 240W
As you see the antec can handle much more power from the mainboard complex meaning more stability and less problems with power hungry hardware.
Also a good PSU will have stable voltages under stress.
Last point is that on most power supllies the 3.3v is drawn for the 5v rail, meaning you can't max them out simultaneously.
You can easaly see this by adding up the theoretical power outputs:
codegen 300w PSU:
3.3v @ 14A = 46w
5V @ 30A = 150w
12V @ 12A = 144w
theoretical total = 340w
Aopen 300w PSU:
3.3v @ 20A = 66w
5V @ 30A = 150w
12V @ 12A = 144w
theoretical total = 360w
Antec 330w PSU:
3.3v @ 28A = 92w
5V @ 30A = 150w
12V @ 17A = 204w
theoretical total = 446w
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MSI-6712 several reboots and unstable 12V

Hi,
After a cold boot my system usually reboots 2/3 times after I login in Windows XP (Clean install). I think it could be the power supply because after these reboots both hdd's have to spin-up again (hdd detection is a few secs longer). So my thought was that my system reboots because my power supply resets because it gets 'overloaded'. (could this be?) but It's again rather strange that it only happens after I login in WinXP
But the strange thing is that after these 2/3 reboots my system boots normal and I can work all day without reboot problems (also 'heavy' game playing). The second thing that PC Alert often shows a very unstable 12V (drops to 10 and then up to 13 according pc alert).
I think I need a bigger power supply but I'd first wanted to be sure if these problems I'm having are typical for a too small power supply. Could anybody give me advice on this matter?
Regards,
Peter
MSI-6712 KT4VL
XP2700+ @333MHz FSB
1x512 MB PC2700 Kingston
AOPEN FSP300-60GT (300W: 3.3V/14A, 5V/30A 12V/12A) PSU
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WD1200JB (120GB) 7200rpm 8MB cache ATA100
SAMSUNG 20GB 5400rpm ATA66
PHILIPS PCRW1600A 40x16x10
AOPEN 40x CDROM
Realtek 10Mbit NIC
ONBOARD NIC ENABLED
SOUNBLASTER 128

I would say your power supply is on the weak side, especially your 3.3V and 12V lines. Those should be much higher (read the trouble guide for the recommended values). You have a pretty hefty processor in that machine, not to mention a very large hard drive that will take more juice to get and stay spinning. I would say your power supply would be a safe bet on the source of your problems. Be sure to take a look at the rest of the trouble guide while you are at it; it couldn't hurt to do so.

N460GTX Cyclone 768D5/OC blue artifacts and stopped responding

In the last month I have been having issues with my graphics card to the point that I can't play any game (at all, always stops responding), flash on websites cause video driver "stopped responding" error, vlc or media player videos cause stopped responding error, and any 3d screen saver preview in windows 7 causes artifacts and sometimes the stopped responding error. I can still do anything 2D fine but always haver little blue artifacts all over the screen. Current drivers are Nvidia 266.58, I have tried MSI drivers, Nvidia 260.* drivers and a set of older Nvidia drivers that supposedly didn't have the stopping issues but all had problems even after fully wiping the old drivers on every install.
Given the power issues I have seen in past threads I hooked up my Kill-a-watt again (I always baseline my systems on burn in with that), and I am finding my Wattage draw hasn't changed. Kill A Watt measures 188W avg Draw, Peak 250W. All drives set on RAID to spin up sequentially so I don't get the max draw you'd expect. I ran this with superPi, prime95 and memtest and all run fine with max draw I saw at 250W. I tried to run 3d benchmark tests but like all 3d apps they all crash after video card not responding error. When building this I carefully specd out the power supply with conservative numbers and multiple online calculators, this PS should be able to handle adding 2 more 1TB drives as long as I don't do SLI (don't have room in case anyway with RAID controller).
I have tried all I can think of to resolve this but nothing helps and I'm thinking it's got to be an issue with the card since nothing in my config has changed. Is it the card for sure and will need RMA?
Here are my specs:
Asus P6T WS Pro Mobo
Intel Core i7-930 Bloomfield 2.8GHz LGA 1366 130W
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2x Samsung 1TB 7200 SATA
LG Black 10X Blu-ray Burner - Bulk SATA WH10LS30
Power:
XFX Black Edition P1-750B-CAG9 750W ATX12V v2.2 / ESP12V v2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER
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From XFX site regarding this PS:
Tight voltage regulation (±3%)
Single, high power +12V rail (up to 62A/744W)
DC to DC voltage Regulator modules for +3.3V and +5V
High quality Japanese brand capacitors (105°C)
Solid polymer caps provide enhanced reliability and stability
Quiet 135mm ball bearing fan provides superior cooling
Supports multiple high-end graphic adapters (NVIDIA SLI & ATI CrossFire Ready)
Detachable modular cables
Energy Star 4.0 and RoHS compliant

Can you test the card in another system, yours or a friends?

865PE Neo2-PFISR failure

Hello,
This is my first post here so I would write down my system configuration at first:
my MSI mobo: 865PE Neo2-PFISR (with BIOS update to V3.A since 21/01/2005)
CPU: Intel Pentium 4 HT 2.8E SL79K
RAM: 2GB Kingston 400MHz DDR (4 x KVR400X64C3A/512)
Graphics Card (GPU): Club ATI 9600XT 256MB AGP 8x
2 SATA HDDs: 320GB + 160GB Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm
3 IDEs: SONY DVD-ROM 16x, PLEXTOR CD-RW 52x, NEC DVD-RW DL 16x
Sound Card: TASCAM US-122 (External USB)
Power Supply (PSU): Seasonic S12+ 550W 80plus (+3,3V@24A, +5V@30A, +12V@18A, [email protected], +5Vsb@3A) http://www.seasonicusa.com/s12plus.htm
Monitor: EIZO L550 17" LCD with DVI cable connected
O/S: Dual boot on Kubuntu 7.10 and Windows XP (separately in each HDD)
using BIOS IDE setup: Native Mode configuration with S-ATA only, both P-ATA keep Enabled and no RAID which is the only configuration that my Linux installs or starts and USB Legacy Disable for starting a Windows XP installation otherwise it crashes after a CD-ROM boot in the first blue LOAD screen of the bootable Windows XP.
so I would like to discuss the failure problem that I have:
Sometimes I push the pc's power button to power on and the system gives power to the peripherals (CDs, HDDs, FANs, etc) but the screen does not open at all and the front HDD's orange led stays always ON still. The "D-Bracket 2" shows at once started 2 green leds (2nd and 3nd) and two yellow (?!?!?!) or 2 red (2nd and 3rd) and two yellow (?!?!?!). I'm surprised about the yellow!!! I tried out several setups after failure like: barebone, just the CPU installed with no memory, GPU or HDDs etc, another different type of PSU or unplugging any cable (from the USBs' or the D-Bracket's to the Power/HDD/Reset Leds and the FANs') but nothing changed at all. Finally if I "Clear CMOS" using the Jumper JBAT1 as the manual's information, everything goes well and the pc starts excellent again but then, in a random time after a power on or a restart it does the same failure. I do this post because this was happening really rarely in the past but now this is happening usually (once in a week I can say) with no hardware change since a while. Thank you in advance for your time and I will be thankful for any help.
I'm sorry for my bad English.
Greetings from Greece
Christos Kyrkilis

Quote from: Del UK on 07-February-08, 04:31:04
You have HSF that has retention socket with back plate
Have you done a strip and reassemble of this as yet..........
Could you please rephrase what you've posted cause my bad English couldn't help me understand what you mean. Sorry

Is your problem caused by your PSU?

Welcome to the forum! If you are having a problem, this is probably the best place to come to! But BEFORE you post with your troubles, make sure first you have read the Forum Rules, and the Suggestions to Posting And Getting Better Answers stickies.
Now, the most common problems we see here in the Forums are those relating to your Power Supply Unit (PSU). That metal box with wires coming out of it is far more important than you think. Especially when it comes to upgrading a PC.
You may have had a case which came with a PSU that was fairly cheap, and the board and CPU you had previously may have run with no problems at all. But then the time comes when you want to upgrade that mobo and CPU, and thats when the problems start....
"Hi, I just upgraded to a K7N2 Delta 2 board, but when I power on the system, I cannot run the CPU at its correct FSB!"
"I just put together a system based around KM4M-V board with Athlon XP3000, but the fans spin for a second and then stop..."
"I've replaced my old Geforce 4 MX440 with a Geforce 7600GS, but there are dots and lines all over the screen"
"i installed Windows fine on this KT6 Delta board, but when I try to run any 3D games the system just completely locks up..."
A lot of people at this point have already decided that its MSI's fault, and that they make "rubbish" motherboards. But they have failed to consider the one piece of hardware that often gets overlooked...
The Power Supply Unit. The often overlooked PC hardware
"So what do I need?"
Most modern mobos utilise two power connectors, the standard 20pin ATX connector that all boards need, and an auxiliary 4pin connector known sometimes as JPWR1 or ATX2. This connector provides a seperate 12v supply for the CPU, as most modern CPUs draw heavily on this power line.
If your power supply doesn't have this 4pin connector, then you may as well throw it away now and get a new one.
Secondly, you need to assess the specs of your PSU. There is another sticky here which warns of Q-Tec PSUs not correctly advertising their specs, which goes into more technical detail, but basically there is more to a PSU than the output given in watts, eg 300w, 420w, 550w. A good quality 380w PSU can be much better than a poor 550w one, that is why we ask you for the make of your PSU.
PSUs supply power to your system through several "rails", the most important being the 12v, 5v and 3.3v ones. The current supplied through these rails is measured in amperes (amps), and is usually listed on the sticky label on the side of the PSU, similar to the pictures shown below:
Two very different PSUs. The one on left has poor 12v rail and will cause problems. The one on right is much better![/i]
If your board has this 4pin connector, then you need a modern PSU which has an emphasis on the 12v rail, as this supplies most of the power to your CPU, graphics card, hard drive(s) and CD/DVD drives. For a basic SocketA board, such as KM4M-V, 15a should be sufficient, whereas a performance board such as KT880 or K7N2 Delta2 will need 18a or more. AMD64 boards have greater requirements, especially if you are running a dual-core CPU with two graphics cards in SLI; refer to their forums for specific advice.
If your board doesn't have a 4pin connector, such as KT3 or KT4 series, then your PSU should be a slightly older type, where the power balance favours the 3.3v and 5v rails. 12v rail on these boards is used to power motors in drives and fans, etc. As 3.3v and 5v are essentially drawn from the same source in ATX PSUs, you will never get the total output you see listed on the label together, which is why you must also consider the "Max Combined Output" of the 3.3v & 5v rails
"But it worked fine on my old system!"
Older PSUs were designed for older mobos, which mainly drew on the 5v and 3.3v rails to power the CPU and other onboard devices, leaving the 12v rail to power drive motors in HDDs, CD drives and floppy drives. As newer CPUs become more power hungry, the mobos become more reliant on a 12v supply to "feed" the CPU, so older PSUs cannot cope with extra demands.
So technically yes, your PSU may have been well able to cope with your previous hardware configuration, but now you have upgraded, it could simply be that your PSU is not able to supply correct power demands of your new mobo...
"So is my PSU any good?
Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any hard set guide to what amps to look for in a PSU to power a certain mobo/CPU combination. You can browse through the forum, and there are many suggestions what to look for.
If you want to ask for help, then please avoid people asking the same questions again, and tell us the specs of your PSU: list the brand, the output in watts, and the amp ratings on the 12v, 5v and 3.3v rails. Saying you have a 420w PSU is irrelevant, as there are better quality 360w PSUs, than some cheaper 550w models. We want to see: "My PSU is a Codegen 350w (3.3v/20a, 5v/30a, 12v/12a)", not "My PSU is 500w". If you provide this information, you will get better and faster advice. Just supplying a make and model name and expecting users to search the internet to find your PSU specs is just a wee bit rude, as they are already giving up their time to help you!
How can I test if my PSU is causing the problem?
Try another better PSU. See if you can borrow one off a friend. Maybe you have another computer at home? Either way, there is no point trying a PSU that is the same or weaker than the one you already have.
Also just because a PSU works on another computer, doesn't automatically mean it will be powerful enough for yours. Don't forget, a PSU that works on a PIII system probably won't work on a new Athlon XP system.
If you do decide you want to buy a new power supply, then do all your homework first. Compare prices and specs, and look for reviews. But don't trust all reviews! Not everyone tests PSUs properly, some will rate PSUs if they have a shiny gold finish and a fancy LED, without even glancing at the performance.
When shopping for PSUs, either online or in a store, are the specs available? if not, then visit the manufacturer's website. You could spend $/£100 on a flashy PSU with six fans and rainbow LED lights () but it could be worse than yours. A good quality PSU could last you for years, and maybe another couple of upgrades. Don't spend more than you can afford, but don't skimp on the specs at all costs.
If you plan on doing more upgrades, it would pay to invest in a very good high quality PSU, that way you know it will last through your next upgrades. Buying a PSU now that just meets your requirements may cause problems if you upgrade a lot of hardware later, then your new PSU is once again not powerful enough.
"OK, so my PSU is rubbish, what do you recommend?"
I recommend you read through the following threads:
What's the big deal about PSUs?
Choosing the right power supply
Q-Tec warning!!!!
A Power Supply Guide
Power Supply Calculation
2x 12v: The Dual Rail Myth
Power Supply Requirements and Selection for K8N mobos
Power Supply Calculator for MSI K8N mobos
also browse through some threads, you will see many problems caused by poor PSUs, and many suggestions on what to get!
the following article appeared in Custom PC magazine in November 2004 and is very good reading, plus you can see results of the 12 PSU's they tested:
Custom PC - "I've got the power" - Nov 2004
Custom PC PSU labs test
UPDATE:
CustomPC's 2005 Labs Test, 29 PSUs tested:
http://www.pcpro.co.uk/custompc/labs/26/psus/products.html
(please note a free registration is required after you view a few pages)
Good luck!

Are you using a dynamic image in your report? Like an image that comes from a CLOB or BLOB in your database? If so, are you sure it is base64 encoded?
I'm having a very similar problem. I get the error when using an image bigger than 6KB (8KB after base64 encoding). It seems APEX cuts the end off of values too big for it's liking (total generated XML for the row should not exceed 32K I suppose).
The errormessages I get when using a non base64 encoded clob or an image that's bigger than 6KB are the same as yours.

How to pick a good power supply?

I ordered my 875p Neo-FISR with an Aspire X-Dreamer case. The case is budget, but it does a decent job of cooling my system (cpu temps: 25c-40c). The only problem is, I'm using the 350w Turbolink PSU (better named POS) that came with the case.
My turbolink: +3.3V@24A;+5V@35A;+12V@12A
I have some money to spare so I'd like to buy a high quality PSU close to 500.
Here are a few of my options:
Enermax 460W EG465P-VE(FC):
+3.3V@35A;+5V@35A;-5V@1A;+12V@33A;-12V@1A;[email protected]
(Enermax sounds like a favorite on these forums, but it's a bit pricy...)
Fortron 530W FSP530-60GNA:
+3.3V@30/17A,+5V@44/24A,[email protected],+12V@16/28A,[email protected],+5VSB@2A
(Fortron won the Anandtech PSU Roundup so I thought I'd consider it.)
Antec 480W TRUE480BLUE:
+3.3V@30A;+5V@38A;[email protected]; +12V@22A;[email protected];+5VSB@2A
(Good PSU brand name)
Enermax $$$ > Antec $$$ >> Fortron $$$
The funny thing is, turbolink was ripped to shreds by Anandtech so I KNOW I have to replace my PSU. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Bonus points to anyone who can explain the volt/amp numbers and why they are important.

As Raven has posted, get the Enermax 460W and save yourself a lot of hassle in the future. I use it, I love it.
To "try" and explain voltages and such, well I'm not sure what you mean, but I will explain what I can.
+12V : The most important of them all since this one powers the processor, vid card, all fans and some other stuff I don't know of.
+5V : Dunno what this one is for. Maybe powering the mobo itself and the chipsets?
+3.3V: Powers your ram. Dunno what else it does.
Hope this helps.
Oh, and to everybody reading this, please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks

Do I need another RMA? N560GTX Ti Twin Frozr II/OC

Hey folks. Hi Svet.
Question: So, uh, is there something wrong with 560 GTX Ti based cards?!
I bought the card in February. It went flaky and was RMA'd in June.
Thread here: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=149374.msg1109239#msg1109239
They sent me someone elses' repaired card, or a new card, but it hasn't lasted even 5 months of near zero use! I put in the replacement, and it seemed to work fine; ran all benchmarks and tests when I first installed it. And never gave it another thought.
I haven't had much need for 3D or gaming, I certainly haven't had time to game all summer. I mostly web browse and photo edit, and for that it's working fine. I'm mostly in linux and the only OpenGL work I do is rendering/modelling in Blender. In case you don't know, consumer 3D like 3D Vision doesn't work under linux.
Fast forward to today. Some family were over, the kids wanted to play with the cool 3D glasses, so I fire up Win7x64 and an OLD game (TOB: HL2 & Portal) and it looks horrible!
The white "fire flies" are everywhere, it looks kind of like a sports stadium filled with camera flashes going off. The textures are not only tearing, but the colors are freaky (mostly primary colors - white, magenta, blue) and tons of flickering. The textures are flickering individually. 3D or non-3D it's the same. You can still play, but of course you can't see. And eventually, it locks, and you have to reboot.
Trying to run Kombustor at just 1280x720 results in garbled video and finally the app crashes or hangs. The "furry" text is all interconnected, like there's extra faces or something.
The card has never been overclocked (beyond factory OC)... 880/1760/2100 MHz. Re: temps, in 2D it's always around 34C (and it never gets over 54C before crashing.)
The system is stable and runs just fine, until you throw something graphically-intensive at it, like gaming. Then the card goes boom.
This is with the 285.62 driver, I've also tried the 280.26 from the MSI site with the same results.
I'm pretty sure this is a hardware issue, the reason I'm posting before RMAing is, what should I do here? I do NOT want to RMA this thing just to have it die again. I want a stable system, period. The card should last indefinitely, at least until it's so old no one would bother using it! And with solid caps replacing that first-to-fail point of electrolytics, this should be easily attainable! I know MSI won't ever say if there's a design flaw with the chip nor the card, but you guys are another story. Could I, for example, get an RMA unit and then flash it so it will be a slower, ordinary 560GTX? Obviously I could, what I mean is, would this make the card survive longer? I'll take stable over speed any day of the week.
As you can imagine, I'm frustrated. And POOR, which makes matters worse - I can't swap it out even if I wanted to.
Well, thanks for reading. Any help appreciated.
System
Mob: MSI P67A-GD65 (B3) BIOS 1.F0
CPU: 2600 Non-K (no overclocking)
Vid: MSI N560GTX Ti Twin Frozr II/OC BIOS 70.24.11.00.00, add. power from separate 18A rails.
RAM: 4x 4G CORSAIR Vengeance PC3-12800 (XMP 1600), 8-8-8-24
PSU: Sparkle SCC-850AF +3.3~24A /+5V~30A /+12V: 16A/16A/18A/18A/18A ~86A total
OS : Win7Pro SP1 x64 w/ 285.62 / linux x86_64 w/ 290.10
Drives:
OS: 2x RAID0 OCZ Vertex2 240G
Data: 5x Hitachi 2TB array on LSI MegaRAID SAS MR9240-8i
Optical: 2x BD-RE DL (Sony Optiarc 5730S & LiteOn iHBS212)
UPS:
Tripp-Lite Smart Pro 2.6KVA
(not that a UPS matters, just making the point that it's always fed nice, clean power.)

Thanks, I've fixed it up.
I've tried to update the bios cux since a few days, the vga doesn't keep 60 fps in game when recording with fraps. Sometimes it goes to 55 and then it is hard to play. The game is NFS Hot Pursuit 2010 and up to now I could play it while recording at 60fps fix.
I use AB profile overclocked to 938 (core) and 2205 (memory) with voltage at 1.012

P67A-GD53 can't use BIOS interface!

This is what I'm looking at when I get into the BIOS:
There is no interface that I can actually see and use. The monitor scaling is fine outside the BIOS.

Intel Core i5-2500K Processor 3.3GHz 6 MB Cache Socket LGA1155
MSI LGA1155/Intel P67 B3/DDR3/SATA3&USB3.0/A&GbE/ATX Motherboard P67A-GD53 (B3) BIOS v. 1.D
Kingston Technology HyperX 8 GB Kit (2x4 GB Modules) 8 Dual Channel Kit 1600 (PC3 12800) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX
XFX Radeon 5750 1 GB
Western Digital 3 TB SATA II Intellipower 64 MB Cache Bulk/OEM Desktop Hard Drive - WD30EZRSDTL
PC Power and Cooling Silencer 760W High Performance 80PLUS Silver 3.3V-24A 5V-30A 12V-62A

P43 Neo3-FR no booting :cry:

My specs are:
MSI P43 Neo3-FR
Intel Core2Duo E7300/E8400 Boxed versions (standard cooler)
2x1 GB PC-2 5300 DDR2-667 CL=5-5-5-15
500GB Western Digital Harddisk
ATI Radeon ASUS EAH4850/HTDI (512MB) PCI Express 2.0 x16 / 625 MHz / 3840 x 2400 / 512 MB DDR3 SDRAM (1.986 GHz)
Power supply:
Corsair TX650W (model CMPSU-650TX)
AC Input: 100-240v~10A 50/60Hz
DC output: +3.3V 24A +5V 30A +12V 52A -12V 0.8A +5Vsb 3A
MAX 170W 624W 9.6W 15W
combined
Wattage 650W
Ace- Raw Deal 620W
AC Input: 230V 4A 50Hz
DC Output: +12VA 20A +12VB 20A +5V 28A -5V 0.5A -12V 0.6A +3.3V 24A +5VSB 2.5A
Bios: No clue havent been able to enter bios yet...
Ok now u know my spec...
When i try to turn on the Computer nothing happens with the Ace raw power supply but with the Corsair power supply the fans starts to run.
But there is no signal at all on the screen... i can see and hear that the computer doesnt boot can only see the fans circle.
The graphic card shows a 1 sec red light when i start and the fans on it runs aswell.
Ive checked (7 times now) if the CPU schould of done any problems to the MB (broken "legs") but seems perfect nothing to see...
Ive tried taken out 1 Ram at a time but doesnt work still...
im lost pls help...ive ordered a Power supply checker to see if the corsair or Ace raw got some mallfunction.
sorry for the bad englush :P

What is the sSpec for the E8400? Example:SLAPB E7300~BIOS 1.3, SLB9J E8400~BIOS 1.5, SLAPL E8400~BIOS 1.0
Find BIOS chip on MB, what number is on the sticker?
Edit:

300w PS, 3.3v-24a, 5v-30a, 12v-12a Should I upgrade my Power Supply?

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