4.4 KitKat notification bark DARKER than before

Has anyone else noticed this or is it just me?? At the lock screen (the only place where the transparency happens) the blue icons are pretty bright and easy to read. But then you unlock the device and they dim!!! I'm quite sure this did not happen before the 4.4 update. I find it much more difficult to read the time and other information now. It's driving me crazy! Is anyone else seeing this? Is there a fix?

Yes, the updated definitely completed 100%. Everything seems to be running
fine, with the exception of the darker icons/text in the status bar and
also the home button issue, which others seem to be experiencing. The
phone acts like I've hit home twice, bringing me back to the middle home
page, even if I was previously on a different home screen. This is pretty
annoying. The motion isn't even that smooth - it's kinda jumpy.
I did a factory reset last night and the phone is behaving the same exact
way. The blue text and icons in the bar still go darker/dimmer when I
unlock. For me they are harder to read now. I've even tried using a black
wallpaper and this proves that it isn't just my eye because of the
transition from the transparency of the lockscreen to the black bar on the
homescreen. There is a noticeable dimming effect on the status bar when I
unlock.
On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 9:15 AM, Verizon Wireless Customer Support <

Similar Messages

PDFs print out darker in Windows Reader 9.0 than Mac Reader 9.0, also Win Reader 9.0 darker than 8.x

Hi,
Using Adobe Reader 8.1.2 for Mac OS X and 8.* for Windows, my PDFs printed out identically for both platforms.
However, after I upgraded Windows Adobe Reader from 8 to 9.0.0, it prints out the PDFs significantly darker than before, whereas when I upgraded the OS X Adobe Reader from 8.1.2 to 9.0.0, the print outs did not get any darker.
Now they are both on v9.0.0, Windows printouts are significantly darker than the OS X printouts, using the same PDF file, printer, etc.
Any idea what's going on here? Is there some of weird gamma correction-type thing going on - although I thought that only affected monitor displays, not print outs? Or should I report it as a bug?
The PDF I am testing is here:
http://egalo.com/guitar-fretboard-visualisation-sheet.pdf
I also tried printing it out from other PDF viewers - Preview.app on OS X and Foxit Reader on Windows - and they both print out normally i.e. the same as Adobe Reader 8.* for all platforms, and 9.0 for OS X - definitely not as dark as Adobe Reader 9.0.0 for Windows.
I'm running OS X 10.5.4 and Windows XP Professional as a VM using Parallels.
Needless to say, I want to be able to generate PDFs that have the same darkness regardless which PDF viewer or OS platform is being used to print it out.
Thanks, Xen
[Edited to improve clarity]

Thanks Michael,
The file that I have sent her has both vector and raster graphics in it, and they were apparently printing fine. It just seems to be text that's not printing correctly.

Applied 55% transparency to group of objects, but a placed .eps file is darker than things created natively in InDesign

hey guys,
I'm working on a math book and for some reason, my placed .eps files (which are used for equations) are appearing darker than the other items when set to 55% opacity. I've ensured that everything is set to 100% opacity before grouping, then grouped and set to 55%. My only thought is maybe the eps is RGB when the other things are CMYK...and if this is the case, I'm not sure how to test / fix it. Other than that idea, I have no clue as to where to begin in addressing this issue.
The cheese is real with this example.
You can see here that I'm applying the 55% opacity to the entire group. I've also ungrouped all of the objects, made sure they're at 100% opacity, then grouped and set to 55%.
You can see here that the text is 100% black.
Thanks!

Sorry, I Googled around a bit, but not quite sure what you mean by distilling the PDF. I've exported the PDF as a "High Quality PDF", and the issue still persists there. Should I alter the PDF export options some?

FCP 7 Viewer is Darker than what it should be

In my current FCP7, while project and sequence is under Pro Res 422, the viewer displays darker images, i tried to change the System Setting>Playback Control>Gamma Correction to Approximate instead of Accurate, this increased the gamma(brightness) of the clip a fair bit, but even when comparing to a normal footage played in QT7 (with FCP Compatability disabled or not) in FCP, it's still a littlebit more washed, grey-ish, not as vivid as playing in QT7
I know this is a known bug, and i remember solving this problem last time by changing some codec somewhere in FCP project to another coded instead of 422, then back to 422 and that solved the problem, i'm not sure
any help?
Thanks

Hey videogal3
After a bit of research back then, I found a temporary solution, I've now switched to FCPX so I didn't bother anymore, but here it is
in System Settings under FCP7
under Tab Playback Control
Under Gamma Correction: Change from Accurate to Approximate
Mind you, In my own experience, I dont think that's close to what u see in quick time either, but it certainly is better than before, at least not dark where u can't see. And after exporting, the movie is fine too
So Yeah, hope this helps
Cheers

Photoshop saves images darker than they appear in-program

I am using Photoshop CS6 64-bit version, and I also had this problem with the previous Photoshop CS5 (64-bit aswell). (Windows 7 64-bit)
I've had this problem for a very long time and I've been looking for answers for tons of times however this time around I really want it fixed because it is very annoying.
Whenever I save most images that I've edited or created in Photoshop, they get saved as darker than they are in the program;
It shouldn't be a monitor problem. I have two monitors and it occurs on both. When I save the image and open it on the same monitor for comparison, it is darker than it was in photoshop.
If I use a screen-cap tool like Gyazo directly in photoshop to upload a screenshot of the image to the web, it appears just as light as it should (I am not sure if it's 100% as light as it should, however it's definitely way better and lighter than saving the image then uploading it).
Here's a comparison. On the left it is the wallpaper opened in Photoshop. On the right side I have the image saved as a .PNG and shown using the default Windows Photo Viewer:
http://i.gyazo.com/02f434cce077a672e0169f7c2875b3ef.png
You can see that there is a clear difference, and that it's way darker than it should be. It pretty much ruins the image in this case due to how dark it gets.
(Yes, I've tried saving a very wide range of image filetypes with no success)
Continuing on the monitor/screen-cap part above... So logically there should be some issues with the actual saving of the image in Photoshop. Am I using sRGB? Yes. I have checked all the settings in the color settings countless times to make sure it's right. I also tried playing a bit around with them to no avail. Here is a picture of my color settings (Ctrl+Shift+K): http://i.gyazo.com/b3f993b61e2e9c701d0820886670da36.png
I have both tried to reset my settings and re-installed Photoshop. As I also said I've had this problem with an earlier version of Photoshop aswell. I have tried to convert color profiles before I save the image and I've made sure it's saved using sRGB.
I'm convinced Photoshop is saving the image wrongly or something due to the screen-cap case.
If anyone has any leads on how to go about fixing this then please speak out. If you require any more information about my hardware/software or what I've tried, just ask.
Thanks!

This has nothing to do with Photoshop. The problem is that Windows Photo Viewer displays the image incorrectly. Apparently it's choking on the display profile, while Photoshop manages to work with it.
Both applications are fully color managed and should display identically. If they don't the problem is nearly always the display profile.
Try to set sRGB as default display profile in Windows. If the difference disappears you know you have a bad profile and need to replace it. If you don't have a calibrator to make a new profile, just use sRGB for now. Manufacturer-supplied profiles are notoriously defective in any number of ways and should be avoided.

H264 encoded playback file is much darker than original .avi

Hi -
I am trying to encode a large .avi file as H264 and everything goes well, but the playback is MUCH darker than the original .avi file is. I have done this before with a black and white video and had no problem, but this one is not working.
The avi is created in Sony vegas Pro and i found some online info suggesting that this is a known problem in earlier versions of Premiere, and that there is an edit that cna be made to the Prem60.ini file. However, I am running Premiere Pro 4.0 and can't even find an .ini file in the folder now.
This is encoding from NTSC 720 x 480 23.957 fps, to H264 NTSC DV Widescreen High Quality.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you for the reply!
Actually, When I export the avi project into Adobe Media Encoder, it gives me the following settings and they have been great until this file:
Export Settings:
Format: H.264
Preset: NTCH DV Widescreen High Quality
The summary info is NTSC, 720x480, 29.97 fps, LOWER
I have used these same settings before and the qulity has been outstanding.
I did read online that there was a problem in premier 6.0 with Premiere working better with the Microsoft codec rather than the Soney vegas Pro codec and that to solve teh proble you can edit th ePrem60.ini file to tell the program to ignore the Sony codec and default to the MS one, but that's for an older version and I cant even find an ini file for Premiere Pro...
I would really appreciate any help I can get on this -

Why are colors in Illustrator 6 so much darker than in Illustrator 4?

I recently switched from Illustrator CS4 to CS6. The colors in 6 are much darker than in 4, and are not accurate to actual Pantone colors (they were very close to being accurate in 4). Has anyone experienced this, and does anyone know what to do about this?

Your color management settings may have changed since you said all colors are darker. check your color management settings match between CS6 & CS4.
Edit >> Color Settings
In regards to the difference between CS6 and CS5 or before the color books are now LAB not CMYK, so that means the values are different. A bad thing for print if you change the color mode to CMYK, the colors will be far off what the PMS book says, and you will have to manually fix this e color to match what CS4 uses.
CS5 the book colors were in CMYK so when you converted to CMYK the colors were a close match for printing.
In CS6 the color books switched to LAB which may be more accurate for RGB and digital workflows, but not Print CMYK.
In CS6 converting to CMYK, introduces scum dot (small value which serves little purpose and introduces screening) in cyan and black you would not desire, and in for example flexible packing scum dot would increase the visibility of a moire pattern. For printing never use the CMYK conversion in CS6.
Depending which PMS book you use the CMYK values change.
485 is 95m 100y in the Latest Color Bridge Book, so many brands prior to the bridge book reject that cmyk match for brand consistency with existing printing.
485 is 95m 100y in the solid process book. Many brands stick to this especially if they are matching what their brand was prior to the color bridge.

Printing results are darker than screen. Any help!

I used Aperture to print a book, the book turned up to be darker than it looks on the screen.
I just printed few photos from LR3, the pictures ended up being darker as well. Am I missing something? I use sRGB IEC61966-2.1 profile. which I believe is standard.
I have an iMac 24"/2008. What can I do to get an approximate colours? I have no budget for calibration equipment.
I want to prepare an my wedding album soon. Any advice is appreciated.

I agree with Kirby and Michael completely.
I have made many books (with a couple of various 'self-publishing' provider such as Blurb, and Pro Photo lab such as Pikto in Toronto, Canada, and Apple). My workflow is used with Adobe Creative Suite CS5 (Design Premium CS5 and uses Design Premium versions over the years with Adobe), Apple Aperture and Adobe Ps Lightroom 3, and PhaseOne's Capture One PRO 5. My photography books included black and white, as well as color.
Before I work with my photo files for book projects, I always calibrate monitors with X-Rite ColorMunki Photo. I recommend it highly. I calibrate my monitors EVERY week. In some instance, for extremely important project, I calibrate monitors for that project.
I notice that Kirby (or Michael) or as in many other forum discussion here at Apple Aperture community forums, I don't see any mentions of 'proper' set up with monitor in a room. For example, it is best to *AVOID ANY* light reflection toward monitor by any means. This includes reflection from bright color shirts, room wall, windows and desk lamp. Remove ALL of light reflection distractions! In order to do a proper calibration set up, you need to make sure that there are absolutely NO distractions of light reflections toward monitor. You might want to use grey shirt or black turtleneck similar to that of Steve Job's trademark black turtleneck as an example. The point is to reduce all kind of reflection of lights toward monitor. With the right set up in the 'digital workflow lab' in your room, then proceed with calibration hardware such as ColorMunki Photo from X-Rite.
Additionally, few months ago, I bought ColorChecker Passport, also a product of X-Rite. Very nice workflow, too.
Anyway, once done with proper calibration set up (and regularly), you'll do well with your workflow for your book project. But be cautious and very conservative with yourself. Don't let your eyeballs fool you. Your eyeballs aren't always accurate due to many factors involved mentioned as above. That is where calibration hardware (and specialized software that comes with calibration device provided by vendors such as X-Rite and similar high-end professional-grade third-party vendors).
Don't even think about adjusting brightness manually in monitor's physical setting, it actually ruin the entire workflow process. Don't do it! I had seen many, many, and many (if you will MANY times) discussion about it all over the Internet. This amaze me that there are millions, millions and millions of such similar problems as yours. If done manually and messing around with monitor's physical settings, this really screw this whole work up. This means bad output - simple as that. Unfortunately, some people didn't realize that. There is workaround solution to this, either use Aperture or Photoshop with level or curve adjustment.
However, like I said, once with proper set up in room setting by removing ALL kinds of distraction of light reflections, and all other proper set up (such as neutral darken shirt, wall painted in grey (specialized painting stores offer this), so on, AND IF you believe you think you are seeing some issues with certain images, use it with caution approach in Photoshop with curve or level to brighten or darken.
You want to learn a bit about soft-proofing. Aperture has this capacity to softproof your images whether your images look good for output such as book.
Understand that you can't even get 100% of what you are seeing in monitor with output (books or fine art prints etc). With proper calibration set up, this will get you very close what you are seeing in monitor vs outputs. But with extreme cautious approach, this gets very close, but not 100 percent, though. But pretty close.
You also want to learn more about ICC profile for preparing book files. I don't want to go on and bore you and afraid to confuse you even more. For example, if working with different printers such as Pro Photo lab or other self-publishing companies, or any other printers, DO consider to contact them about ICC profile where you can download these ICC profile. Please note that if they have different paper and types, consider downloading different profiles FOR these paper used in book. But don't worry too much about this, because Apple is pretty good with books and Aperture is pretty good. BUT you gotta to calibrate monitor in order to do a successful digital photo workflow.
Well, you mentioned you don't want to invest in calibration hardware, perhaps that you want to hire a book designer to do a professional wedding book. But if you plan to make many books, DO consider to invest calibration device, this means this save you tons of time, money, effort and saving trees at the same time.
All in all, it is really up to you.
Hope some of tips, ideas and suggestion be of help and informative and educational perspective. Best of luck! Color Management topic itself is very complicated and very highly technical, it takes pro photographers, printers finally to understand what works, why and what's not. Perhaps that you want to look at X-Rite ColorMunki educational webinars about this - just to give you some ideas about why. Again, it is up to you. But the concept is the same with all other calibration device process. X-Rite has many pretty nice informative webinars. I wish that Apple offer this educational webinar about this too.
Brian

When I load Safari on my IPAD2, the web page comes up, but I can't scroll down the page. No matter what web page I go to the content stays darker than the navigation bar. This just started today. All other applications work fine.

When I bring up Safari on my IPAD2, the web page comes up, but I can't scroll down the page. This just started today. No matter what web site I go to, the content is darker than the navigation pane.

If it's happening on all sites, then assuming that it's Safari that you're using, have you tried clearing it's cache : Settings > Safari > Clear Cache (other browsers should have similar options, possibly within the actual app instead of within Settings). You could also try closing the app completely : from the home screen double-click the home button to bring up the taskbar, then press and hold any of the apps on the taskbar for a couple of seconds or so until they start shaking, then press the '-' in the top left of the Safari app (or whichever browser you're using) to close it, and touch any part of the screen above the taskbar so as to stop the shaking and close the taskbar.
If that doesn't work then you could try a reset : press and hold both the sleep and home buttons for about 10 to 15 seconds (ignore the red slider), after which the Apple logo should appear - you won't lose any content, it's the iPad equivalent of a reboot.
If it's only happening on a particular site then there may be content on that site that isn't supported on the iPad e.g. flash, java, silverlight

I have my Mac Book Pro with the OS Yesomite since a month and I am feeling that my mac is getting slower than before a month. I want to install OS Lion on my mac. I think i have a DVD of OS Lion which comes when i bougnt Mac laptop in 2011.

I have my Mac Book Pro with the OS Yesomite since a month and I am feeling that my mac is getting slower than before a month. I want to install OS Lion on my mac. I think i have a DVD of OS Lion which comes when i bougnt Mac laptop in 2011. Should i install OS Lion? What wil happen if i install OS Lion, do i lost my Applications or ...????

Hi, the last install dvd that came out for mac's was Snow Leopard,10.6.3. Lion is a download from apple. You cannot just install it over Yosemite. You would have to backup your drive to save files you want and do a clean install. You might want to look into getting more memory. You can run 8 Gig"s of memory on your Macbook Pro.If your Macbook Pro is getting really slow you might want to download EtreCheck and then post the results here.http://www.etresoft.com/etrecheck Check out this article. http://support.apple.com/kb/PH19031

I have two printers: Epson XP-950 and an hp Photosmart 7520. Both print photos that are darker than they appear on the PC screen. What can I do to set them to printg what is shown on the screen????

I use Photoshop Elements 12 for my photos. I have a constant problem where my photos don't print like they appear on the screen. They come out darker than the screen shows. If brighten them in the program, I have to almost make the photo appear "white" in order to look good printed. ?????? What can I do to fix this problem??

sneakypete1 a écrit:
I use Photoshop Elements 12 for my photos. I have a constant problem where my photos don't print like they appear on the screen. They come out darker than the screen shows. If brighten them in the program, I have to almost make the photo appear "white" in order to look good printed. ?????? What can I do to fix this problem??
I am ready to bet that your display is much, much too bright (like all displays at factory settings.
Why Are My Prints Too Dark

My iPad Air turned slower than before i upgraded to iOS 8.0.2 and waste a lot of battery how can i fix that?

My iPad is slower with iOS 8.0.2 and the battery last lesser than before. Is there any solution for that? Thanks

Do a reset to factory default with your iTunes program. Always make sure you do your backups first. And after you do that you'll also get the NEW revision today with the bug fixes ... iOS 8.1!
Report on the NEW iOS 8.1 Revision Today
Back up and Restore your iOS Device with iCloud or iTunes
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1766
iTunes: About iOS Backups
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4946
Use iTunes to Restore your iOS Device to Factory Settings
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1414

Elements 10, windows 8, 64 bit, epson artisan 835 printer: prints are really dark even after using enhancements like adjusting lighting. Prints are darker than photoshop edit screen. Prints are acceptable using paint, windows photo viewer, or gallery.

Elements 10, Windows 8, 64 bit, Epson Artisan 835 printer: Prints are really dark even after applying enhancements, like adjusting lighting. Prints are darker than Photoshop Edit Screen. Prints are acceptable using Paint, Windows Photoviewer, or Photo Gallery.

In general theory, one now has the Edit button for their posts, until someone/anyone Replies to it. I've had Edit available for weeks, as opposed to the old forum's ~ 30 mins.
That, however, is in theory. I've posted, and immediately seen something that needed editing, only to find NO Replies, yet the Edit button is no longer available, only seconds later. Still, in that same thread, I'd have the Edit button from older posts, to which there had also been no Replies even after several days/weeks. Found one that had to be over a month old, and Edit was still there.
Do not know the why/how of this behavior. At first, I thought that maybe there WAS a Reply, that "ate" my Edit button, but had not Refreshed on my screen. Refresh still showed no Replies, just no Edit either. In those cases, I just Reply and mention the [Edit].
Also, it seems that the buttons get very scrambled at times, and Refresh does not always clear that up. I end up clicking where I "think" the right button should be and hope for the best. Seems that when the buttons do bunch up they can appear at random around the page, often three atop one another, and maybe one way the heck out in left-field.
While I'm on a role, it would be nice to be able to switch between Flattened and Threaded Views on the fly. Each has a use, and having to go to Options and then come back down to the thread is a very slow process. Jive is probably incapable of this, but I can dream.
Hunt

Why is the video inside FCP 6 slightly darker than the OS

Why is the video playback inside FCP 6.0.5 slightly darker than wehn I play the same Quick Time file just inside the normal OSX10.5?
I'm using a Cinema HD 23" monitor running at 1920x1200 and display profile is Cinema HD Calibrated
Thx
Kevin

It is darker because that is a more closely representational GAMMA as to what you will see on your external broadcast monitor. QT lightens the gamma to ensure that most computer monitors can see the footage. As stated, if you want the gamma to appear darker, enable FCP COLOR COMPATIBILITY in the QT preferences.
WHY does it look more like what you see in FCP when you view this on a PC? Well, that is the monitor that PC is using. Take this file, put it on 10 PC all with different monitors and you will see 10 different gammas. The monitors themselves can be set to certain DISPLAY PROFILES (look in your DISPLAYS section under COLOR)...so you can have a HUGE variety of looks.
The reason is because of the monitors and the computers driving them.
Shane

Why is the left side of my iMac screen darker than the other, and why does the display randomly go black?

My family has a late 2010 27" Imac. A few months ago, we noticed that the left side of the screen was somewhat darker than the right. As time went on, it continued to get worse and worse. When you turn the computer off for an hour or so, it helps the display out somewhat, but it eventually goes back to being darker on the left. About two months ago, the display started to go completely black. When the screen is black, everything still runs. My itunes library will still play, everything is functioning even though the screen is out. It has started to become more frequent. It is extremely annoying, almost unbearable. Since the one year warranty went out in November, what are we supposed to do about this?

Contact Apple Service, iMac Service or Apple's Express Lane. It's a known issue with 27" iMacs and you might be eligible for replacement. I had mine replaced shortly after buying it. BTW, AppleCare's extended warranty is the cheapest insurance policy one can have for desktop machines. Too bad you missed the deadline.

4.4 KitKat notification bark DARKER than before

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for