5.1 optical in is it possible

i want to know if i can imput Dolby digital or DTS 5.1 to my iMac?

I think folks are confused by your question.
Do you want to use/play back media that has DTS 5.1 audio or are you saying that you wish to record to some app on your Mac in this format?
Dah•veed

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I installed an SSD in my optical bay, is it possible to install Windows 8 in that drive?

[15" late 2011 MBP with preinstalled 8GB of RAM and 128GB of SSD]
To the goddesses of this community:
Here's the deal. Although I love OS X, but let's be realistic, there are some softwares out there only run on Windows
Therefore, I am planning to buy an OCZ Vector 256GB SSD, transfer the OS X and all other files from the preinstalled 125GB SSD to the new OCZ Vector SSD.
Then, install the new OCZ SSD in the hard drive bay.
After that, wipe my old 128GB SSD, swap out my optical drive and install my old 128GB SSD in its place.
Here's the critical part: I plan to install Windows 8 on my 128GB SSD which is currently empty and sitting in the optical bay.
I have read some past posts saying it is not possible since 1. Boot Camp only allows Windows to be installed in the same SSD OS X is installed in. 2. You can not install Windows using Boot Camp Assistant without an internal optical drive.
I wish to know it the above infomation is still true. If not, how to install Windows 8 in my new SSD?
Thank you very much!

A couple of things to note - first, you can't use Boot Camp to install Win8 on any drive except yoru start-up drive. Second, you'd want the SSD to be in the main HD bay, not the optical bay, if you plan to use it as a bootable OS X device.
Clinton

Splitting the 5.1 optical mbp/imac outputs into 6 analog mono channels?

Hi
is it possible to use the 6 outputs of the optical output of the macbook pro as separate channels?
What do I need to convert/split the signals into 6 analog channels and does Logic/Ableton recognizes the 5.1 as 6 mono channels?
thx!!

sorry to tell you, but no. This is not possible. The 5.1 optical output is only possible by using a special digital encoding that comes with data reduction: AC3. You can't create AC3 streams without relatively large latencies and without buying rather expensive AC3 authoring software components.
However, once you have an AC3 stream you can use ac AC3 compatible audio amplifier to convert it to analog signals. Not very feasible imho. The much simpler and less expensive way would be to buy an audio interface with multichannel support.
Cheers,
Jazz

Replaced Optical Drive now Mac book will not boot up

I bought a second hand Mac Book Pro A1150 model. It did not have an optical drive so I bought one, installed it and now my Mac Book will not boot up. When I take the drive out the Mac Book boots up fine. I was told that the optical drive although used was tested and work when it was shipped out. I'm a little new to Macs but not new to working on computers. Is it common for a possible defective optical drive to casue a Mac Book pr to not boot up or does this sound like an issue with the optical drive cable, or possibly the logic board?

That is true. I cannot think of any way to test the Optical Drive without swapping it into a known correctly operating MBP.
A thought which probably may not be an issue. When I installed an Optical Drive in my old (2006) MBP, I remember seeing in the instruction manual an item called a grounding pad (which looked like a tiny steel brillo pad with out soap) which was missing in mine. The MBP worked and I essentially ignored it. Perhaps that may not be case with your situation.
My thoughts are that the Optical Drive is malfunctioning and the cause of your problem. Perhaps you should consider getting a new replacement from OWC. But that entails a $100 risk with no guarantees of success.
Ciao.

Help Determining Best Option for a MacBook Pro

I will be purchasing a new MBP, and I am having some challenges determining my best option. I have researched quite a bit, but the more I research the more I get lost. I was hoping that the support community here would be able to assist in my decision. I am very price consious so I am looking at the refurbished models from the Apple store. I am also a Web Developer so I need to be able to run Photoshop, Dreamweaver, Illustator plus have a few browsers going with multiple tabs in each. Speed (both working with files and browsing the web) is of the utmost importance to me as I need a computer that can keep up with me. Basically I need a fast computer so I can get my job done quickly. I would love to purchase a new Mac and max it out, but cost is a very important issue which is why I am looking at these two models.
I am torn between two models in the Apple Refurbished section:
Option 1.
Refurbished 13.3-inch MacBook Pro 2.5GHz Dual-core Intel i5
Originally released June 2012
13.3-inch (diagonal) LED-backlit glossy widescreen display, 1280-by-800 resolution
4GB (2 x 2GB) of 1600MHz DDR3 SDRAM
500GB Serial ATA @ 5400 rpm
8x double-layer SuperDrive (DVD±R DL/DVD±RW/CD-RW)
Intel HD Graphics 4000
with this model I would max out the RAM to 16GB and switch the HD to an 128GB SSD that I have.
Option 2.
Refurbished 13.3-inch MacBook Pro 2.6GHz Dual-core Intel Core i5 with Retina Display
Originally released February 2013
13.3-inch (diagonal) Retina display; 2560-by-1600 resolution at 227 pixels per inch 
8GB of 1600MHz DDR3L SDRAM
 256GB Flash Storage
 720p FaceTime HD Camera
 Intel HD Graphics 4000
What it comes down to is that I like option 1 as the cost is much lower and I can upgrade, but I am nwondering if option 2 would be a faster than option 1 even after I upgrade the RAM and HD. I'm just hesitant about the retina model as I cannot upgrade. To me most of the numbers look the same, but I do not know much about what is under the hood and what is overall a better machine for my purposes above. To the retina screen isn't all that important as I plan on connecting the MBP to a larger external monitory.
Thanks in advance for any help. If anything needs clarification please ask and I will provide more details.

Another advantage to the non-Retina MB/Pro with optical drive is the possibility
of upgrade with a kit, to install a second SSD in place of that drive; as per a
part number kit that macsales OWC site has listed. That kind of upgrade does
come up on occasion; however an SSD in that location has a slower data rate
than one on the hard disk drive bus. 'Data Doubler' is their name for it; a kit
could include a suitable SSD, too. http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/SSD/OWC/
About wireless connectivity differences between Retina MB/Pro and non-Retina,
could vary the results if one were to use a newer Time Capsule wireless base
station; as these can use two bandwidths of wi-fi. However I am not sure if one
or both models can utilize this feature when connecting to the base station &
wireless backup function of the time capsule. The faster speed could be a little
helpful if using wireless; yet I'd be sure to make a backup clone and directly
use a wired connection of dependable speed and quality for its use.
So to read up on the newer specs for the Time Capsule with built in wi-fi base
station to see if that matters; I doubt there would be an issue as the newer is
supposed to be compatible with the older.
Hopefully this helps somewhat. I've found an older AirPort base station can
affect the internet speed when the source is higher than the base thoroughput.
This can be an issue, at least with wireless backups or internet access. For
best connection speeds, it also helps to have a wired network, to fall back on.
Ethernet is faster and more reliable as a local & internet network path; and a
wired network is more secure than a wireless one.
If you have a different question, be sure to ask; you could also start a new thread.
Good luck & happy computing!

Turbo balancing

hello i am looking to set a new system for balancing my turbos at the minute i am using 2 IMI industrail accelerometers and a optical tacho sensor ,i have them going to a sound card in my computer,i was woundering if their may be a more stable ,or sensative way. i heard somthing about a DAQ interface can anyone help?

Hi Hommer,
You specified you were using some IMI sensors and an optical tacho, could you possibly link us to a product page for these devices or tell us specifically which accelerometers and tacho's they are (i.e. their model name)
As DAD mentioned we need to understand exactly how many times you would want to sample per each revolution of your turbo, which means would you want it to read twice every time revolution to take a reading at every 180 degrees, or would you want it to take 360 samples so that it took one sample per degree of the revolution?
A good way to understand this further would be to understand exactly what you are looking to find from your signal or what you are looking to read back, could you let us know what you are doing here?
A basic idea of modular system that you could use to take these readings would be the following set up:
http://ohm.ni.com/advisors/compactdaq/pages/common/intro.xhtml?configid=CD3380030
In this set up you would have your 9234 module to take in your aceelerometer signal (as this has all of its signal conditioning built into the module), and the 9421 to take in your digital signal. As I mentioned before, if we knew better exactly what sensors you were using we could tailor this system a little better to your requirements.
Best regards,
Mark W
Applications Engineer
National Instruments UK & Ireland

T430 with two 500 GB HDD : RAID ?

Hi people,
My question is on the title :
Given a T430 with a 500 GB primary disk and an additional 500 GB instead of the optical drive, is it possible to configure the BIOS to set a RAID 0 or RAID 1 mode between these two HDD ?
Thanks.

JDAY has it right. You really want an SSD for your boot and programs disk and a hard drive of whatever size you like as the data drive. RAID is old technology and for performance is obsolete.
T61p, T400
formerly x23, x40

CD-Rs won't mount

CD-Rs are suddenly not mounting. Written CDs mount fine, and I can still burn CD-Rs with Toast. However, they do not appear in other apps (ie. iTunes). I've checked to insure my Finder is set to display mounted CDs, etc. I'm not sure when this happened, as I've made several changes to my applications (mostly adding software) over the past several days.
Any kind of input would be great..

Hi erow80, and welcome to the discussions.
Do the CD-Rs you've burned mount when inserted in another computer?
If they don't, one possible culprit is your CD burner. It was more of an issue with older drives three or four years ago, but as burners age or get knocked around, the laser can lose strength or go out of focus. It often isn't enough that the optical drive can't read a factory CD, but it can be enough that it won't read CDRs, and CDRs it burns won't be read by other optical drives.
Another possible culprit is Toast. Have you tried reinstalling?
Andrew

Powerbook without CD Drive

I want to upgrade my entire home MAC network to Tiger but one of my comuters is a powerbook Wallstreet with a broken CD drive. I am not looking forward to buying a new CD Drive but want all my amchines on tiger. Any ideas?

Hi, adam. Welcome to the Discussions.
I don't think you're going to get around this problem, at least not easily.
As Richard suggests, you'll need to look into XPostFacto. Not sure about Tiger support.
The Wallstreet does not have FireWire ports, nor can it be put into FireWire Target Disk Mode. That method can be used in cases where one has two Macs and both are FireWire equipped.
Furthermore, even if you bought a PC Card to add FireWire ports and an external CD/DVD drive, your Wallstreet cannot start up from a FireWire volume.
Essentially, you'll have to have the optical drive replaced, if possible, with a CD/DVD drive. Your Mac OS X Family Pack license (which I'm sure you bought since you're planning to upgrade more than one Mac) is distributed on DVD.
MCE Technologies specializes in these kinds of optical drive upgrades.
About the only other thing I can think of is to remove the hard drive from the Wallstreet, install it in an appropriate FIreWire enclosure, connect it to another FireWire-equipped Mac, install XPostFacto and Tiger on the drive from there, then reinstall the hard drive in the Wallstreet.
Of course, this still leaves you in a difficult fix: without a working optical drive, you can't use utilities like DiskWarrior or TechTool Pro by starting up from their CDs. Could make future troubleshooting very difficult. Likewise, if you ever have to perform an Archive and Install, you'd have to do backflips with the drive again.
Other than that, you might want to post on one of the PowerBook G3 Discussions to see if someone in a similar situation has another suggestion.
Good luck!
Dr. Smoke
Author: Troubleshooting Mac® OS X

PCMCIA Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS Notebook vs USB Sound Blaster Audigy 2 NX

Hey all I'm new to this so can anyone tell me which one of these are better taking for granted I have the Logitech z5500's and I want to use the optical cable fuctionality if possible. I am just wondering about this b/c I noticed I cant buy the NX anywhere is this b/c itz very new or too old? I also noticed that the ZS doenst have an optical cord capability but it will connect to my laptop (as does the other one by USB capability). Any help/info on where to purchase the NX or any info on it all as well as the ZS although I already know where to buy that, would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Brandon C.

It's OK now. Problem was in Adobe Audition. I didn't choose proper recording device.

Keeping your battery lengthy and healthy

This might seem repetitive but what are the absolute best ways to extend life:
I have it set to better energy savings no bluetooth and low display backlight (half way)
Am I missing something out?
2. I've read the battery callibration sheet but nothing is specified about what power settings should be used ? Does it matter? It could take a while to drain fully therefore I would Crank up the brightness
Thanks in advance for your help
Ben

Set your brightness as low as you can stand it - the difference between 1 bar of brightness and 8 bars will have a significant impact on your battery. I don’t know if he is correct, but the head tech where I work told me that the ethernet port can be turned off in the Network Control Panel to reduce power consumption and that the sound circuit can be turned off by turning sound down all the way which also reduces power consumption. Make sure you don’t have a disk in the optical drive and if possible launch all the programs you’ll use before disconnecting the power adapter. Doing all this I’m getting better than 4 hours on a charge even though WiFi is on all the time.
The same head tech told me that while calibrating the battery you should not drain it as quickly as you can but, just the opposite, you should drain it as slowly as you can. Again, I don’t know if he is correct but over the years I’ve known him to be correct more than not.

Install disc doesn't appear -- FW 800

I've seen some similar topics to my problem, but nothing that really describes what's happening to me, so I apologize if there's a solution I just wasn't able to find on the forums.
I've got a G4 FW800, which should be within the specs to install Leopard (and I've even seen a post from someone with a similar machine who had a post-install problem, so I know it's possible!). My issue is that my drive doesn't recognize the install disc at all. Once I got Leopard and ran into this problem, I tried other CDs, DVDs and DVD-ROMs, and they all showed up normally. But this is as if there isn't even a disc in the drive. No error message, no problems restarting, etc., like others have had.
I've tried holding down the C key while restarting, and nothing happened. It just went to my regular login off the hard drive. So, I exchanged it, thinking it was likely defective.
New disc has almost the same problems, but it was slightly better one time. I had System Profiler open and was looking at my optical drive. It showed a disc in there with the proper name and everything, but it never appeared on my desktop. But that only happened once. Every subsequent time, that doesn't even show up.
There is also another minor difference with the new disc. Now, when I try starting up by holding the C key, it simply holds on the grey Apple screen forever until I finally give up and release the C key. Before, it seemed to believe more that there wasn't even a disc in the drive.
I have no other Mac available to try this on, and so I don't believe I can round up the hardware to attempt to install it on a hard drive and then install that on my Mac. But if I could find someone with an external optical drive, would that work? I thought I saw something somewhere where that could be an issue if I'm not using my original drive.
Is there anything else I can try? I saw a thread where some Mac Book users were finding success turning their computers upside down, but that's obviously not an option with my tower!
If it's some weird issue with my optical drive, is it possible to get CDs of Leopard, seeing as how I forked out the money for the OS already?
Let me know what you folks think. Thanks!

Hi Kenstrom,
Thanks for posting - I've been searching, without success, for a solution to a sim. scenario. Perhaps if I describe the torture this has generated as an Xmas present someone might come up with a solution. Before doing so, let me say when I'm waiting for the disk image to appear, I have to wait a LONG time. My Background: I've been around macs as a professional programmer since my first Mac+ in 1984 so I have some experience with the platform(s).
My machine: FW 800 - Dual 1.35 GHz, 768 Mb RAM - so on target according to the specs.
[I also have a (work) Intel 1.83 Gb Dual w. 512Mb RAM which has already been upgraded to Lep.5.0.which (following the description below, I used to test the installation DVD on for 'integrity' or whatever A. calls it) and it is fine.]
So all is legit..... Then,
- I insert the DVD in the drive and it appears on the desktop. Click on Install and the machine shuts down and then can't seem to find the boot block or something on the DVD and just hangs. (grey screen, twirling spokes)
- reboot, reinsert DVD and then set the boot disk to the DVD- Click on Install to the same outcome.
- reboot holding down option key and select the DVD to boot from. System hangs similarly.
- once during multiple repeats with slight variations I managed to get the Install started. It got half-way through the install and then it 'got stuck' and installation failed. This destroyed the previous system. I threw caution to the wind and reformatted the HD, thinking that might have helped. No luck: Same problems. So now I have an idling machine waiting for a solution.
I suspect there is something wrong w. the CDD drive trying to read the DVD. I'm guessing that the reason the install failed was that the screensaver/powersaver options switched themselves in - i didn't disable them - surely A. would turn them off before an install? I don't have a spare/external DVD player but I suppose that might be a possible solution. I would have thought A. would have tested all combinations of HW/SW install that it lists as possible. Perhaps not...
At the moment my partner from whom this was a Xmas gift - is muttering about sticking to her windose machine - and I was trumpeting the new dual OS tools!
good luck - if anyone finds a solution please post ref. here.

99min CD-Rs

Has anyone tried using these for burning audio CDs?
If so, what sort of capacity (in mins) did you actually get on them?
Did they work OK on normal CD players?
I have an Intel iMac, so am guessing that if anything can burn them, this should.
Thanks
Andy

Hi erow80, and welcome to the discussions.
Do the CD-Rs you've burned mount when inserted in another computer?
If they don't, one possible culprit is your CD burner. It was more of an issue with older drives three or four years ago, but as burners age or get knocked around, the laser can lose strength or go out of focus. It often isn't enough that the optical drive can't read a factory CD, but it can be enough that it won't read CDRs, and CDRs it burns won't be read by other optical drives.
Another possible culprit is Toast. Have you tried reinstalling?
Andrew

"D" key at boot?

If you hold the "D" key at boot, shouldn't it load the "Apple hardware test"???
When I hold "D" at boot, I am stuck at a blue screen (no apple logo yet) and nothing happens until I let go of the "D" key. After 2 to 3 minutes of holding "D" nothing has loaded or changed and I am stuck at the blue screen. I let go of the key, and after about 20 seconds, then I get the Apple logo, and then the spinning wheel. The computer then boots normally.
By holding "D" at boot, shouldn't I be taken to a different screen or something so I can run the hardware test?
Any ideas?
-Scott

sdschramm wrote:
HOWEVER, why do I need to insert the disk? I was told that on all Intel computers, the AHT is "built into" the computer - no need for a disk. Also, on my mothers iMac, you can hold down "D" with no disk in, and it boots to the AHT just fine?
I would guess that you have wiped / reformatted your drive at some stage and done a fresh " install" from a retail OS DVD Scott.
If this is the case then the necessary /System/Library/CoreServices/.diagnostics stuff won't be present on the drive and the EFI loader won't be able to call on it unless you have the correct DVD in your optical drive.
Another possibility, if you haven't ever erased your drive and installed from a retail OS DVD, may be that you have some underlying directory corruption, or that the relevant files in coreServices have themselves become corrupted.
Cheers
Rod

Weird noise from CPU

A few nights ago I awoke to hear my P-book G4 making a loud crackling noise so I freaked out and shut it down. After restart the next day it booted fine and then just booted up to a blue screen. I Waited until today and I tried to reboot off of the startup disk, and it spit that out and then all of a sudden it restarted normally but made those crackling noises again. THe noises have now stopped and I am running disk utility on it to see if that helps but does anyone know anything about this issue and if so could I have some help. Thanks

Denny: Replace your hard drive. The optical drive can't possibly make crackling or grinding noises without a disc in it, and it can't slow the operation of the computer to a crawl or prevent a normal startup from the hard drive. A failing hard drive would account for all the symptoms you've experienced, including the awful noises. Replacing the HD is easy; instructions for doing so are right in your Powerbook owner's manual.
I hope all your data is backed up, because any grinding noises you've been hearing could have been the read-write heads in your hard drive plowing furrows into the surface of the platter where your data used to be. You'll be very, very lucky if you're able to recover everything important from that drive. The more you try to use it, the smaller your chances of salvaging anything from it will become.

5.1 optical in is it possible

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