5D Mark 3 Low Light Images = really slow!!!

Hello,
I've got a rather odd problem. When shooting in low light (think pitch black, lightning shots etc) the 5d mark iii takes forever to display the image on the preview screen. It takes up to a minute or more and I can see the red light (indicating the camera is busy writing?) flickering the whole time. Thinking this was a memory card issue, I switched over to the SD Card slot (I was shooting CF before) and encountered the same issue. I'm using San Disk Extreme (30MBPS) CF Card and Extreme (45MBPS) SD Card.
Are these cards not fast enough for what I'm doing? I'm shooting in RAW + JPEG, writing to only one card.
I thought it was a camera defect, but I talked to a friend of mine who had just bought his Mark iii and he had the same complaint.
Anyone else encountering this problem or did we just get a bad batch?
Any light you can shed on this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I swore when I read this the second time I saw something about the screen flickering, not the read light. Seems I'm losing it.
I use the Lightroom noise tool for light noise reduction of everyday type photos. But if I'm doing something that needs a lot of work - HDR, photochopping, or just really high ISO, I use Imagenomics Noiseware. It can be a bit heavy, but I usually just feather in a NR layer overtop of my normal image(s) accordingly. It does really well on low key images, getting a uniform Black.

Similar Messages

Tips for avoiding "noisy" images in low-light

Hi all,
I noticed that there are a lot of users here who are complaining of noisy images especially in low-light. I'm not a professional photographer or anything but I have been playing a lot with the camera of my Xperia Z1 and I did have noisy images also at first.
Here is my tip: Use these settings:
Go to Manual Mode.
Shoot in either 8MP 4:3 or 16:9 (don't worry about not making use of the 20MP, because its still doing oversampling to improve the quality of the 8MP image by making use of the whole 20MP sensor).
Set Stabilizer to off
ISO to Auto (if you prefer more detailed images, set ISO to a lower value but take note of the exposure of the image and that there is a chance of motion blur due to the longer shutter speed necessary to capture low light at low ISO)
WB Auto (or your preference).
With the setting I use above, I've seen improvements on low-light capability (indoors, artificial lighting, or night outdoor scene for example) and quality of my camera pictures. Note though that this will not be applicable for extreme low-light. Its very normal to capture really noisy images when shooting in extreme low-light (even my dedicated compact camera has troubles too).
Here is my theory why its taking noisy images by default. In Superior Auto, I analyzed the EXIF data of the pictures I've shot. It seems that Superior Auto is really excessive in bumping up the ISO (thus resulting in more noisy images) to compensate for having a faster shutter speed (reduced motion blur). Thus what you get is a noisy image that is bright and freezes the motion. For example, test it out that in Superior Auto, even minute movements of the phone will trigger the Sports Mode (running man icon near the button) prioritizing a faster shutter speed at the cost of a higher ISO.
Another reason I have for turning off the Stabilizer in Manual Mode is the same. In contrast to Steady Shot used in recording movies (sensor based shift to compensate for handshake movements), I think the Stabilizer option basically just bumps up the ISO also to compensate for handshake movements. I"m not entirely 100% sure but so far, I've been satisfied with taking images with the Stabilizer Off.
Please feel free to test it out and report the results if there have been improvements. I'm still testing it out too! One of the things I wish for Sony to put in the Camera App are just these 3 things:
1.) Holding Shutter Key will open the Camera app with the LAST CONFIGURED SETTINGS
2.) Maximum ISO can be set in Manual Mode
3.) Scene AUTO mode for Manual Mode (I know it might be redundant but it would be nice to have Auto mode for 4:3 orientation images).
Again, hope to hear from others what are their settings or if they notice any improvements in images captured.
Thanks!

Hi, there is a FAQ related to this topic.
http://talk.sonymobile.com/t5/FAQ/Capture-better-photos-in-low-light-conditions/m-p/395397#U395397
Don't forget to mark correct answer as Accepted Solution.
If you find the post helpful, press Kudos.

5d mark III focusing slowly/etc. in low light wedding receptions

I've been using 5d2s for a long time because I am simply not rich enough (and I don't want the huge body either) to buy 1d-series cameras for work. I've shot about 20 weddings with the 5d3 since I bought it, and I finally sent it in to Canon the other day for an autofocus checkup.
My #1 issue is reception autofocus. My 5d2s beat my 5d3 at reception focusing (with 580EX AF assist always used). They are more reliable for AI servo and faster for one-shot.
My 5d3 struggles to acquire in one-shot, taking probably close to 2 real seconds (it feels like forever) to establish and confirm a lock on a static subject during wedding receptions with lenses like 24L II, 35L, 50L. In contrast, in the exact same lighting conditions and with the same lenses and flash AF assist, my 5d2s all snap right to focus and I click the shutter within about 1 second or less, getting an in-focus image about 90-95% of the time.
With AI servo, the 5d3 is just inferior to my 5d2s in low light. I was hoping, one day, to get a camera that would give me the ability to track subjects well during processionals/grand entrances/reception dances using the outer points, because I'm pretty tired of being stuck with center-point framing for these situations. I thought the 5d3 was supposed to solve that problem, but in fact it took a step backward in low light AI servo accuracy and locking. My 5d2s (center point) both acquire faster and track better in low light than my 5d3 (center point also).
After sending the 5d3 in to get it checked (and so they could charge me $175+), I got a nice copy of the page saying that the camera focus in low light is blah blah etc. etc. use AF assist (which I had noted I did) and the overall feeling was that they were very condescending and disregarding of my equipment issue. To me, a $3500 camera should perform better than a camera that is now worth ~$1300...and so the 5d3 performs arguably better in GOOD light, simply because it has more focus points to choose from which are generally pretty accurate - in GOOD light. However, it performs worse in reception light. Wedding photographers will understand what I mean by reception light.
My 5d2 AI servo is not useless during receptions, but my 5d3 AI servo struggles more in the same reception lighting. My 5d2 one-shot locks quickly and pretty accurately during receptions, while my 5d3 takes significantly longer in one-shot to lock, and sometimes it gives me pretty wild misses, during receptions. Always using AF assist with 580EX, and btw the 5d3 firmware is the latest version (1.2.3 at this time). The camera simply focuses slower during receptions than my 5d2s, and AI servo misses more.
I also don't like that AF points don't light up before focusing, but this is less important to me than a fast, responsive AF system for wedding receptions. I have had to put away the 5d3 on multiple occasions and bring out a second 5d2 for wedding receptions just so I can get good dancing photos, good speech/toasting photos, etc., before all the key moments went by and ohhhh too late, my focus system didn't lock in time...
I have been having this issue with 5d3 performance since I bought it close to a year ago. I do wedding photography primarily, and I have quite a bit of experience shooting weddings and dealing with the various demands of weddings.
Most of my AF experience is with single point, with only a few experiences using the expansion settings. I have never had trouble locking or tracking with single point with my 5d2s as long as there was enough light to do it, and being used to that I expected the 5d3 to be able to perform at LEAST comparably. It does not.
At this point, this critical functional limitation of the 5d3 has left me very dissatisfied with the camera. I thought upgrades were supposed to do everything just as well or better than the previous version, but this newest camera has shown me that more AF points definitely does NOT mean a better (or even comparable) AF system in every situation. Clearly something was traded off when they added a ton of cross-type points, like low light acquisition speed and being able to see your AF points illuminate when you start AF.
I've been playing around with Nikon equipment for a while and am beginning to think that is my forced alternative. I don't like the things I hear about Nikon customer support, and I don't really like the direction they are going with some of their releases or how they handled function issues (focus issues with off-center focus points, oil on sensors, etc.) but Canon isn't innocent of that stuff either. And if I use an all-Nikon setup then I will have excellent dynamic range at low ISOs as well. Too bad Nikon doesn't have the glass I like best (35L, 85L, etc.)...but compromises must be made in some direction, and I'm intensely frustrated with Canon's latest cameras' focusing systems in low light.
It's very specific, mind you: Low light performance is inferior to my 5d2s. In good light, my 5d3 has better AF flexibility for tracking with outer points, and the one-shot focus acquisition is comparable to my 5d2s.

This singular issue of the 5d3 has ensured that I will never buy another one (unless they fix that, which they won't). Unlike what I did with the 5d2 (upgraded to 5d2s towards the end of their product cycle), the 5d3 is too impaired for low light photography for me to be able to replace my 5d2s with 5d3s. I can only hope the next generation will NOT have the same low light focus delays...otherwise I might have to buy a few 6Ds just to keep up with more current tech (since my 5d2s will wear out eventually). I've heard they don't have the same doublechecking delay, but they also have other limits that I dislike (1/4000 ss, 1/180 flash sync, no pc sync port, SD memory only) and will have to work around.

5D Mark III HSS Problem in Low light

We have a somewhat serious problem with our two Mark III's...or some obscure setting.
When the light level get's too low, they over expose when HSS is on. We can slow down the shutter so it turns HSS off and everthing is perfect. But, once you speed up so HSS is on, it is way over exposed (about two stops). This happens with both cameras and an ST-E3-RT, a 600EX-RT and/or a 430EX - off-camera or on. It doesn't seem to matter what ISO setting or exposure setting, once it goes below a certain light level it over exposes. We are normally around ISO 10,000, F2.8, 1/250. At this point, flash compensation has no effect, camera exposure compensation does change it but then you can't go back to regular light levels or no flash without switching it back. Another hint is that I can change the off-camera 600EX-RT compensation on the flash itself and that will help. But again, if it goes back to regular flash, it'll be too dark.
So, there is a clear difference in exposure between HSS and regular, or no flash at low light levels.
We've used this method with the original 5D and the 5D Mark II and all was fine. This is new with the Mark III.
It is possible we have some obscure setting incorrect...hopefully. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

mortontd wrote:
We have a somewhat serious problem with our two Mark III's...or some obscure setting.
When the light level get's too low, they over expose when HSS is on. We can slow down the shutter so it turns HSS off and everthing is perfect. But, once you speed up so HSS is on, it is way over exposed (about two stops). This happens with both cameras and an ST-E3-RT, a 600EX-RT and/or a 430EX - off-camera or on. It doesn't seem to matter what ISO setting or exposure setting, once it goes below a certain light level it over exposes. We are normally around ISO 10,000, F2.8, 1/250. At this point, flash compensation has no effect, camera exposure compensation does change it but then you can't go back to regular light levels or no flash without switching it back. Another hint is that I can change the off-camera 600EX-RT compensation on the flash itself and that will help. But again, if it goes back to regular flash, it'll be too dark.
So, there is a clear difference in exposure between HSS and regular, or no flash at low light levels.
We've used this method with the original 5D and the 5D Mark II and all was fine. This is new with the Mark III.
It is possible we have some obscure setting incorrect...hopefully. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
There's definitely something wonky about this situation. If anything, the photo should be DARKER when using HSS. And flash compensation has no effect, but exposure compensation does? That doesn't make much sense with regard to the flash power. Exposure compensation should have no effect on the flash at all if you're shooting in Av mode.
Try shooting in manual, and do a "factory reset" of your camera body and reset all custom functions.

Firefox becomes really slow then eventually unresponsive when loading a page with many hires images. Unsual high memory usage up to 2gigs just for firefox. Was never a problem with v3.6.

When loading a page with many hires images, Firefox becomes really slow and scrolling becomes jumpy then eventually becomes completely unresponsive. Unusual high memory usage of up to 2gigs just for firefox when loading these pages. This was never a problem with v3.6.

I encountered the same type of problem. Firefox running terribly slowly and slowing down my entire machine (Core i5 with 256GB SSD). Searching the forums, I found a couple of things about troubleshooting performance issues, one of which was to use '''hardware acceleration''', that is on by default. It was turned on on my PC, '''so I tried deactivating it, and it worked!'''
So doing the exact opposite as Mozilla support said solved the problem. It is really a pain now to work with Firefox. I'm using it because I have no choice, but I'd recommend IE and Chrome over Firefox... Whatever, the market will decide once Firefox has become to crappy...

Images load really slow after using Reduce File Size...

After using the "Reduce File Size..." feature in Acrobat 9 on Windows Vista, some of the images load really slow as I page through the document. Is there some kind of compression setting that I should look for to prevent the images from be affected by this?
For some of my documents it will take 30 to 60 seconds to load an image. Sometimes I can't do anything with the document until the graphic loads entirely.

Can you post an example of a file that has this issue? Personally, I recommend using the PDF optimizer, it gives better control of the final pdf file.

Photoshop CS5 interface gets really slow *only* when an image is open

So this is really odd. Photoshop gets really slow when any image, regardless of size is open. When there are no images open it runs smoothly. The interface gets really laggy, filter usage, tool selection or any other usage is really sluggish, but only with an image open, even if it's a single pixel.
I've tried different performance settings - changing where the scatch drive is, how much memory to allocate, what the cache levels are set at, enabling/disabling openGL, etc. It makes no difference if it's after a fresh reboot or if it's been on for days. No software has changed since the upgrade. Memory test don't show any issues and no other application has this problem - Illustrator, After Effects, Maya, Mudbox, etc. are all fine.
My system specs
Windows 7 x64 Enterprise - Service pack 1 installed
Dual Xeon quadcore E5620 @ 2.4GHx (sixteen threads w/hyperthreading)
96 GB Ram - DDR3 - 1333 MHz / PC3-10600 - registered - ECC
Nvidia Quadro FX 3800 - with latest stable performance drivers v 295.73 (tried changing these, no affect)
Western Digital VelociRaptor 150GB 10000 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s OS Drive
X3 Seagate Constellation 2TB 7200 RPM SAS 6Gb/s setup in a RAID 5 config
I'd think it would be a memory issue if all apps had similar problems, or if PS had issues when just being open. It's odd that it happens only when an image is open.
Thanks for any an all help.
Duncan

Duncan York wrote:
I've tried different ..., enabling/disabling openGL,
Just to make sure, did you close and restart Photoshop after changing OpenGL settings and before testing? That's important, and not having done so could lead you to invalid assumptions.
-Noel

Really slow internet uploads and images not showing

I have tried "Disk Repair" and also did a "Reset Safari". Internet pages are REALLY slow to load and all images on websites are little blue boxes with a "?" in it. My internet connection is spotless, all this started right after I dowloaded OS X Mavericks. Please help!

For images. With Safari open, if you see Develop in the menu bar top of your screen between Bookmarks and Window click Develop. If Disable Images is checked, click there one time to uncheck.
You can also empty the cache from the Develop menu. Develop > Empty Caches
Then quit and relaunch Safari to test to see if images load and that pages load faster.

PB Displacement filter really slow with big images

hello;
     I am trying to make a Pixel bender displacement filter that will handle displacements bigger than 128 pixels, for flash. Right now flash only uses one 8 bit color channel to represent a displacement, which can not be bigger than 128 pixels. I am trying to make a pixel bender kernel that will take 3 color channels( 24 bit) as a displacement, which should be able to handle displacements as big as 8388608. That is obviously bigger than I need.
     The problem i am finding is that when the image or the displacement maps are too big it runs really slow. With images the size 3072x768, it runs at 3 frames per second on an intel based mac.
     The question is , does anybody know how to optimise this code?
the code:
<languageVersion : 1.0;>
kernel DisplacementMap
<
namespace : "dood";
vendor : "m0ose";
version : 1;
description : "Displacement by bitmap map 16 bit. X and Y are seperate bitmaps ";
>
parameter   float       scale
    <
        minValue        : -10.0;
        maxValue        : 10.0;
        defaultValue    : 1.0;
    >;
parameter float offsetX
    <
        minValue        : -1000.0;
        maxValue        : 1000.0;
        defaultValue    : 0.0;
    >;
parameter float offsetY
    <
            minValue        : -1000.0;
        maxValue        : 1000.0;
        defaultValue    : 0.0;
    >;
parameter float zoom
    <
            minValue        : 0.1;
        maxValue        : 10.0;
        defaultValue    : 1.0;
    >;
input image4 src;
input image4 mapX;
input image4 mapY;
output pixel4 dst;
void evaluatePixel()
    float2 pos = outCoord();
    float4 amountX = sampleLinear(mapX , pos);
    float4 amountY = sampleLinear(mapY , pos);
    float x = (amountX.b * 256.0 - 128.0) ; //red
    x = x + (amountX.g * 256.0 - 128.0) * 128.0;//alpha
    x = x * scale;
    x = x + pos.x;
    x = x + offsetX ;
    x = x / zoom;
    float y = (amountY.b * 256.0 - 128.0) ;
    y = y + (amountY.g * 256.0 - 128.0) * 128.0;
    y = y * scale;
    y = y + pos.y;
    y = y + offsetY ;
    y = y / zoom;
    float2 displacedPos = float2( x , y );
    dst = sampleLinear(src, displacedPos);
thanx

I am adding a shader to the filter attribute of a Flex Video Player
code: something like this
[Embed(source="displ24test.pbj" , mimeType="application/octet-stream")]
protected var displacer:Class;
var shader:Shader;
public function init():void
shader = new Shader( new displacer() );
shader.data.src.input = src;
shader.data.mapX.input = mapX;
shader.data.mapY.input = mapY;
shader.data.scale.value = [ scale ];
shader.data.offsetX.value = [ offsetX ];
shader.data.offsetY.value = [ offsetY ];
shader.data.zoom.value = [ zoom];
_mov.filters = [ new ShaderFilter( shader) ];
then in flex:
<s:VideoPlayer x="10" y="10" source="df_retro5_1k_sound.mov" id="_mov" autoPlay="true"/>

Photoshop Elements 12 runs really slow and is almost unusable.

Photoshop (and Premiere) Elements 12 runs really slow and is almost unusable.
All other high end software works perfectly including 3D rendering software.
27" iMac mid 2011.
16gb of RAM.
Over 100gb free hdd space.
Radeon HD card 2GB.
3.4 GHz Intel Core i7.
I have tested on tiny low quality images as well.
I bought this with the bundled Premiere Elements which is also unusable even with the smallest and lowest quality video file.
iMovie works fine as does other video editing software. I ONLY have an issue with Photoshop and Premiere Elements 12.
Mavericks 10.9.3
Elements 12.1

After the latest update, Firefox is much better. Using it again.

Nokia Lumia 925 with Black update - When low light...

The ambient light sensor doesn't seem to be correctly used in low light conditions.
In low light, with the phone "locked", just push the middle unlock button. The screen show the usual unlock screen, but at high brightness, for what seems to be a variable time (every time I do this), but not longer than 100-200 ms. Then the ambient light sensor starts to work, and reduces the display brightness.
This has only started since the black update. My Lumia 925 was working fine before, and now this display brightness problem has started. It only happens in low light conditions. If there is enough light (eg. daylight), the screen doesn't start with max brightness to begin with.
It doesn't matter if I'm using "glance" either. With this feature turned on or off, in low light conditions, this problem is the same.
I am now not using glance (I wasn't really using it before the update anyway), and I've set my screen brightness to a set value as a workaround.
OS version 8.0.10517.150
Frimware: 3051.40000.1345.1001
Hardware: 0.5.6.1
Radio: 3.2.04047.1
SOC: 8960
Solved!
Go to Solution.

So I've played with my phone more ... and I don't think there is a big problem. If I move to a room that is darker, and wait a few seconds, the phone unlock screen isn't bright when I hit the unlock button. It seems the phone now needs longer time to get used to the light conditions it is in.
Maybe the Lumia was always like this, or maybe the ambient light sensor has a slower response time now, and isn't polled as often for its reading, like it was before. More likely is that as I have been playing with the glance screen, I've been locking and unlocking quickly, while walking around. The phone hasn't had enough time to update the ambient light settings.
Interestingly, with the glance set to interval, I can still wake up the interval screen when placing my hands on the screen. I had left my phone for sometime on its own, then I lifted it up. Either my fingers or the movement triggered the glance screen to turn on. Or its has a timer as such, and just happened to turn on at this point in time ! Who knows (well I'll search for more info about the new glance settings now).
So it looks like there is no problem. Either its always been like this, and I'm testing the ambient sensor polling to the limits by pressing the unlock button often. Or the polling rate has been reduced (maybe to help increase battery life).

I have iMac and need a good photo editing program to use. Reviews say aperture runs really slow with Lion, any suggestions?

I need a program where I can remove objects and touch up dead grass, etc.

Reviews say Aperture runs really slow with Lion, any suggestions?
To add on to Corky02 answer:
The recent Aperture release AP 3.3.x is very efficient, both on Lion and Mountain Lion. But you need a decent hardware to support it. The older Macs will have problems with the storage and CPU requirements. For good performance on large raw images plenty of RAM is important, at least 4GB, but 8GB would be much better, and your library should be on a fast disk, preferably on an internal drive. And don't let the system drive get too full.
Many reports about Aperture being slow are due to putting the Aperture library onto slow disks or acessing the original image files over the network, insufficient RAM, or corrupted or ill-designedAperture databases.
Aperture excels at all kinds of image processing that can be considered image developement - raw processing and color/lighting adjustments, but does not do compositing. If you are shooting raw and want professional image developement I'd recommend to do this in Aperture and not in iPhoto - you will have much more control over this in Aperture (after a steep learning curve). You can also repair and retouch the image to correct minor blamishes. For graphics compositing and inpainting you can set up an external editor and send your images from Aperture to this external editor - any of the editors Corky recommended would be o.k. for this.
To see, if you will want the advanced image processing in Aperture or the easy to use, more basic options in iPhoro will be sufficient to you have a look at the Aperture User manual, or the tutorial on the support page: Aperture Support
But Aperture is a professional apllication, not "plug and play". You should only consider it, if you are willing to spend some time on learning to use it properly and are willing to work your way through the manual.
Regards
Léonie

6D low light video

Hello,
I'm trying to shoot video in low light and I'm getting some extra hue and contrast. When I shoot stills, what I see on the screen is what I see on my computer. When I flip over to video (with out changing ISO or WB settings) the images are darker and have a green hue.
I need what I'm seeing on the screen of the camera to be what I see on my computer monitor after I download of the card.
Any ideas?
Current setting: Exp 1/30, ISO 8000, WB 3200, f-stop 2.8
What I've tried: IPB and All-I compression, different SD cards rated for different speeds, formatting the card with the camera, and shrinking still images to 1920X1280 - Same results ever case

RobertTheFat wrote:
Skirball wrote:
I don't know about you, but my stills (RAW) are always darker than they are on my camera (6D); which is a jpg and might be part of the source. It wasn't near as noticable on my 450D. I just learned to adapt my eye and I check my histogram anyway. But I'd say the actual image looks about a 1/2 stop darker on my computer than the camera. I don't think it's abnormal to have small differences between the camera screen and computer. THere are too many variables to deal with to be consistent.
The most obvious explanation for that phenomenon (which means that you've probably already considered it and ruled it out) is that you've turned up the brightness of the camera's display screen. That setting is independent of all else, and it's easy to turn it up when the ambient light is high and then later forget that you did it. And maybe you didn't have the screen turned up as high on your 450D.
Also, of course, even a RAW image gets darker if subjected to any white balance correction (because that correction can only subtract, not add, light). I'd expect the screen to display the corrected image, but conceivably it doesn't.
Yes, that was the first thing that crossed my mind, but not just that the setting was turned up, but that the display is simply brighter. Although my old 450D seemed to be closer to the actual exposure it was terrible in the shadows. Things would look black on the camera but I'd still have detail on the actual photo.
I didn't bother looking for a brightness setting on my 6D for several reasons. 1) the brightness is really nice when you're out in bright sunlight; 2) I recognize there are far too many variables to expect any consistency between a small jpg with settings applied on a 3" backlit LCD to a full sized RAW file on a calibrated IPS monitor in a dim room; 3) I check my historgram constantly, I never trust what I see on the image, it's just a preview to get you in the ballpark; and 4) the IQ and recovery on the 6D is so good that I know if the image looks decent on the camera then I'll be able to make it work in post.

Low-light Cameras

Hey Everyone,
As camera and sensor technology has advanced, so has the ability of digital cameras to record in lower light without an external light source. In the past if you wanted to capture a useable image in low-light conditions you would have to use flash, strobes, or in a pinch you could use hot-lights.
Sensors have really come a long way. Modern Backlit CMOS sensors allow far more light to actually reach the photosites that capture the image, and because of this the data needs far less amplification. These types of sensors should produce images with far less digital noise while shooting at higher sensitivities. Over the last couple of years I have seen cameras with much higher selectable sensitivity to light (this is called the camera’s ISO).
Another feature that’s become better-and-better over the years, which also helps out in shooting in low-light situations, is image stabilization. Basically Image stabilization shifts either the lens elements, or the sensor itself, to compensate for any movement on the part of the shooter. This really does help out while shooting in low-light.
If you really intend on shooting a lot in low-light the best thing you can do is get a camera with the above features, but also one that uses a large sensor. While most point-and-shoot cameras do a much better job in low-light than they used to, there really is no substitution for a physically large sensor of a DSLR or Compact System Camera when shooting under low light levels.
Happy Shooting,
Allan|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message

Allan-BBY wrote:
If you really intend on shooting a lot in low-light the best thing you can do is get a camera with the above features, but also one that uses a large sensor. While most point-and-shoot cameras do a much better job in low-light than they used to, there really is no substitution for a physically large sensor of a DSLR or Compact System Camera when shooting under low light levels.
I think the biggest low-light accomplishment is how modern cameras are able to capture starlight and galaxies with the right lenses.
While sensor size is important, choosing lenses with large apertures also helps to minimize sensor noise. Look for lenses with f/2.8, f/1.8, or f/1.4 designations.
Of course you can just cheat. Nikon's SB-910 or a Quantum bare-bulb works wonders in challenging light conditions.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Nikon+-+Speedlight+SB-910+Flashlight/4675495.p?id=1218505325342&skuId=46...
Note, many compact cameras are now shipping with larger sensors.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8dVE9gu96A

Macbook pro runs really slow after sleep mode

My MBP ( MacBook Pro (13-inch, medio 2012), 2,5 GHz Intel Core i5, 8 GB 1600 MHz DDR3, Intel HD Graphics 4000 1024 MB), runs very slow after sleep mode. I notice that when I wake it up, my memory usage is nearly 8 GB. After a restart it is back no a normal level, between 2 and 5 GB depending on how many programs I am running. Any ideas what causes this? My IOS is Yosemite 10.10.2
Kind regards

Hi Japib
Thanks for your reply. Here is my report:
Problem description:
macbook pro is really slow after sleep mode
EtreCheck version: 2.1.8 (121)
Report generated 4 februari 2015 20:56:34 CET
Download EtreCheck from http://etresoft.com/etrecheck
Click the [Click for support] links for help with non-Apple products.
Click the [Click for details] links for more information about that line.
Hardware Information: ℹ️
    MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) (Technical Specifications)
    MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro9,2
    1 2.5 GHz Intel Core i5 CPU: 2-core
    8 GB RAM Upgradeable
        BANK 0/DIMM0
            4 GB DDR3 1600 MHz ok
        BANK 1/DIMM0
            4 GB DDR3 1600 MHz ok
    Bluetooth: Good - Handoff/Airdrop2 supported
    Wireless: en1: 802.11 a/b/g/n
    Battery Health: Normal - Cycle count 172
Video Information: ℹ️
    Intel HD Graphics 4000
        Color LCD 1280 x 800
System Software: ℹ️
    OS X 10.10.2 (14C109) - Time since boot: 1:36:41
Disk Information: ℹ️
    APPLE HDD TOSHIBA MK5065GSXF disk0 : (500,11 GB)
        EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted> : 210 MB
        Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted> [Recovery]: 650 MB
        Macintosh HD (disk1) / : 498.88 GB (292.17 GB free)
            Encrypted AES-XTS Unlocked
            Core Storage: disk0s2 499.25 GB Online
    MATSHITADVD-R   UJ-8A8
USB Information: ℹ️
    Apple Inc. BRCM20702 Hub
        Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
    Apple Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
    Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
    Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
Thunderbolt Information: ℹ️
    Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Gatekeeper: ℹ️
    Mac App Store and identified developers
Kernel Extensions: ℹ️
        /Library/Application Support/Hotspot Shield
    [not loaded]    com.anchorfree.tun (1.0.1) [Click for support]
        /Library/Application Support/Kaspersky Lab/KAV/Bases/Cache
    [loaded]    com.kaspersky.kext.kimul.44 (44) [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.kaspersky.kext.mark.1.0.5 (1.0.5) [Click for support]
        /Library/Extensions
    [loaded]    com.kaspersky.kext.klif (3.0.4a41) [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.kaspersky.nke (1.6.4a15) [Click for support]
        /System/Library/Extensions
    [loaded]    com.hzsystems.terminus.driver (4) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.olympus.CamBlockCommandsDeviceUP (3.1.0 - SDK 10.6) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.roxio.BluRaySupport (1.1.6) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.sony.driver.prs2 (1.0.3d1) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.wacom.kext.pentablet (5.3.3 - SDK 10.8) [Click for support]
        /Users/[redacted]/Library/Services/ToastIt.service/Contents/MacOS
    [not loaded]    com.roxio.TDIXController (2.0) [Click for support]
Launch Agents: ℹ️
    [running]    com.epson.Epson_Low_Ink_Reminder.launcher.plist [Click for support]
    [failed]    com.epson.esua.launcher.plist [Click for support] [Click for details]
    [running]    com.epson.eventmanager.agent.plist [Click for support]
    [running]    com.kaspersky.kav.gui.plist [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.sony.ReaderDesktop.RunReaderDesktop.plist [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.trusteer.rapport.rapportd.plist [Click for support]
    [running]    com.wacom.pentablet.plist [Click for support]
Launch Daemons: ℹ️
    [loaded]    com.adobe.fpsaud.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.anchorfree.ajaxserver.plist [Click for support]
    [running]    com.kaspersky.kav.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.microsoft.office.licensing.helper.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.oracle.java.JavaUpdateHelper.plist [Click for support]
    [running]    com.trusteer.rooks.rooksd.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.tunnelbear.mac.tbeard.plist [Click for support]
User Launch Agents: ℹ️
    [loaded]    com.adobe.ARM.[...].plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.google.keystone.agent.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.macpaw.CleanMyMac2Helper.diskSpaceWatcher.plist [Click for support]
    [running]    com.spotify.webhelper.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.valvesoftware.steamclean.plist [Click for support]
User Login Items: ℹ️
    iTunesHelper    Programma (/Applications/iTunes.app/Contents/MacOS/iTunesHelper.app)
    Documenten    Map (/Users/[redacted]/Documents)
    uTorrent    UNKNOWN (missing value)
    BambooCore    UNKNOWN (missing value)
    BambooCore    UNKNOWN (missing value)
    BambooCore    UNKNOWN (missing value)
    BambooCore    UNKNOWN (missing value)
    BambooCore    UNKNOWN (missing value)
Internet Plug-ins: ℹ️
    JavaAppletPlugin: Version: Java 7 Update 60 Check version
    WacomNetscape: Version: 2.1.0-1 - SDK 10.8 [Click for support]
    Default Browser: Version: 600 - SDK 10.10
    WacomTabletPlugin: Version: WacomTabletPlugin 2.1.0.2 [Click for support]
    AdobePDFViewerNPAPI: Version: 11.0.10 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
    FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 16.0.0.296 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
    Silverlight: Version: 5.1.30514.0 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
    Flash Player: Version: 16.0.0.296 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
    QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
    SharePointBrowserPlugin: Version: 14.4.7 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
    AdobePDFViewer: Version: 11.0.10 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
    MeetingJoinPlugin: Version: Unknown - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
User internet Plug-ins: ℹ️
    Google Earth Web Plug-in: Version: 7.1 [Click for support]
Safari Extensions: ℹ️
    AdBlock
    DuckDuckGo
    Save to Pocket
    Awesome Screenshot
    URL Advisor
    Virtual Keyboard
3rd Party Preference Panes: ℹ️
    Flash Player [Click for support]
    Squeezebox [Click for support]
    Trusteer Endpoint Protection [Click for support]
Time Machine: ℹ️
    Auto backup: YES
    Volumes being backed up:
        Macintosh HD: Disk size: 498.88 GB Disk used: 206.70 GB
    Destinations:
        My Passport [Local]
        Total size: 999.83 GB
        Total number of backups: 17
        Oldest backup: 2013-11-06 17:55:38 +0000
        Last backup: 2014-10-14 11:30:39 +0000
        Size of backup disk: Adequate
            Backup size 999.83 GB > (Disk used 206.70 GB X 3)
Top Processes by CPU: ℹ️
        15%    mds
         5%    WindowServer
         0%    ocspd
         0%    fontd
         0%    kav
Top Processes by Memory: ℹ️
    223 MB    kav
    198 MB    Safari
    155 MB    Mail
    137 MB    mds_stores
    77 MB    WindowServer
Virtual Memory Information: ℹ️
    3.45 GB    Free RAM
    3.05 GB    Active RAM
    1.11 GB    Inactive RAM
    974 MB    Wired RAM
    1.64 GB    Page-ins
    0 B    Page-outs
Diagnostics Information: ℹ️
    Feb 4, 2015, 07:21:16 PM    /Users/[redacted]/Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/EPSON Software Updater Agent_2015-02-04-192116_[redacted].crash
    Feb 4, 2015, 07:18:08 PM    Self test - passed
Hope this will shed some light on the problem.

5D Mark 3 Low Light Images = really slow!!!

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