5D Mark III - Underexposed images

I just got a new 5D Mark III, and it seems to be underexposing images by about a full stop. I've tried all the metering modes, and it doesn't seem to change anything. Anyone else having this problem?
Thanks,
Jm

Dgtl_nm8r,
There was a serivce advisory for the EOS 5D Mark III, but it was not related to the issue you are experiencing. As a first step towards resolving this issue, we suggest that you restore the camera's default settings. You can reset to the factory settings by following the procedure below:
Press the MENU button.
Select the [Tools #4] tab.
Select [Clear All Camera Settings].
Press the SET button.
Select [OK].
Press the SET button.
For reference, this information can be found on page 56 of your User's Manual.
If this is a time sensitive-matter, additional support options are available at Contact Us.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Similar Messages

Canon 5D Mark III - underexposes

Hello,
I've noticed that my Canon 5D Mark III underexposes somewhere between 2/3 stops and one stop.
I've taken a test photo and I've attached the histogram and the exif. I photographed a white sheet of paper
Is this behaviour normal or is there a problem in the camera's metering system?
Thanks,
Catalin
Histogram
Test photo
I have also attached the full exif:
[Image]
Make = Canon
Model = Canon EOS 5D Mark III
Orientation = top/left
X Resolution = 72
Y Resolution = 72
Resolution Unit = inch
Date Time = 2014-01-20 21:16:29
Artist = Catalin Fuioaga
YCbCr Positioning = co-sited
Copyright = Catalin Fuioaga
Exif IFD Pointer = Offset: 360
GPS Info IFD Pointer = Offset: 9554
[Camera]
Exposure Time = 1/200"
F Number = F5.6
Exposure Program = Normal program
ISO Speed Ratings = 2000
8830 = 2
8832 = 2000
Exif Version = 30, 32, 33, 30
Date Time Original = 2014-01-20 21:16:29
Date Time Digitized = 2014-01-20 21:16:29
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Shutter Speed Value = 7.63 TV
Aperture Value = 5 AV
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Metering Mode = Partial
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 105mm
Maker Note = 8152 Byte
User Comment =
Subsec Time =
Subsec Time Original =
Subsec Time Digitized =
Flashpix Version = Version 1.0
Color Space = sRGB
Exif Image Width = 2880
Exif Image Height = 1920
Interoperability IFD Pointer = Offset: 9326
Focal Plane X Resolution = 1971.253
Focal Plane Y Resolution = 1975.309
Focal Plane Resolution Unit = inch
Custom Rendered = Normal process
Exposure Mode = Auto exposure
White Balance = Manual white balance
Scene Capture Type = Normal
A430 =
A431 = 073024017512
A432 = 24/1, 105/1, 0/1, 0/1
A434 = EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM
A435 = 00001bcf3a
[GPS]
GPS Version ID = 2, 3, 0, 0
[Interoperability]
Interoperability Index = ExifR98
Interoperability Version = Version 1.0
[Thumbnail Info]
Compression = JPEG Compressed (Thumbnail)
X Resolution = 72
Y Resolution = 72
Resolution Unit = inch
JPEG Interchange Format = Offset: 11444
JPEG Interchange Format Length = Length: 3320
[Thumbnail]
Thumbnail = 160 x 120

"....Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Metering Mode = Partial
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 105mm..."
You are in partial metering mode, which is fine if you are shooting a plain white piece of paper. However most of the time I'd recommend either Evaluative instead, or if you are more accustomed to it, Center Weighted. Or use Spot Metering in some cases. Partial is sort of like a "Large Spot Metering" mode.
Evaluative has the advantage of putting extra emphasis on the area right around the active AF point, i.e. presumably around your subject. The rest of the image area is considered, too, but more weight is given to the active AF point. Center Weighted metering doesn't do this (it's sort of an "old fashioned" method of metering, but some people are accustomed to it from using older cameras.)
Do a Google search on Expose To The Right (ETTR), which is a common technique used by Canon shooters. Like hsbn mentioned above, I think Canon is a bit conservative about their metering, erring a little toward underexposure to "protect the highlights". This was a good practice back in the days of slide film, but is just the opposite of what you want to do with digital. To minimize noise in images, it's better to slightly overexpose and pull the exposure back down a little in post processing. Not a lot... just +1/3 to +2/3 stop. Here is a link to one of the better descriptions of ETTR I've seen. There are other tutorials and discussions about it other places online, so do a search if you wish.
Oh, and there was an exposure issue with the 5D III early on. The problem was a light leak near the top LCD, that would cause underexposure from additional light reaching the metering array in the viewfinder. Canon did a recall made some changes to fix the problem. Yours would have to be a very early production camera that was never fixed under the recall, to have this problem. The problem would vary, depending upon how strong light was striking the top of the camera whle shooting. Outside on a bright sunny day would cause more error than shooting indoors in low light.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Canon 5D Mark iii RAW images coming in muted

I am shooting on a 5D Mark iii but the images are coming off the camera and into Lightroom 4 muted. I shoot in RAW and when I load them into Lightroom they initially look good but then after it looks like they process for a second they all become muted. Any suggestions? Is this a software thing? I know that images right off the camera for this equipment should be much better.

That's normal Lightroom and third party software behavior. Basically, what you see in the back of your camera LCD screen and when first imported into LR is the embeded JPG of your RAW file. It's a embeded JPG with all the effects, saturation, sharpeness, and many other settings; thus it looks "good". Then LR will give you the "real" version of of your RAW image in which a little lack of contrast, a little wash out, dull and muted. However, if you know how to use LR, you can process your RAW to look even better than the JPG.
Some photographer will disable most of the in-camera setting, lower contrast and saturation to make the JPG photo as close to the RAW as possible in oder to maximize the camera dynamic range.
Weekend Travelers Blog | Eastern Sierra Fall Color Guide

PS5 will not open camera raw pictures...all made with Canon 5D Mark III and Canon 5D Mark II

PS5 will not open Camera Raw Pictures made with Canon 5D Mark III

What version of camera raw do you have? You should have at least 6.7 for PS to open Canon 5D Mark III raw images.

Lightroom 4.2 will not import from Canon 5D Mark III

When trying to import photos from my Canon 5D Mark III into Lightroom 4.2, the import usually freezes up at some arbitrary point. It will either crash lightroom altogether, or it will have a message saying "could not import all files, files could not be read." (something along those lines.)
I am using a 1 year old iMac with a 1 TB HD. I import directly onto that hard drive. Lightroom has never had an issue importing. My previous camera was a Canon EOS T1i. The problems started when I purchased my 5D Mark III. Images from my T1i, in fact, still import fine with no issues. I am running OS X version 10.7.5. My compact flash card is brand new, a Lexar 1000x. This question/issue may have been answered elsewhere, and if so I apologize, for i could not locate it. I have seen some suggesting it may be a hard drive issue, however, the evidence points to the 5D Mark III not playing well with LR 4.2. (T1i images still import fine.)

Here's a post concerning 5D MKIII file corruption, which may also be due to a camera malfucntion. Yes, there could be something wrong with your camera.
http://forums.adobe.com/message/4882852#4882852
SUGGESTION:
Install the Canon EOS Utility that came with your camera. Also check for an updated version of the EOS Utility after the install. You need to install from the CD first before you can install any updates.
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_5d_mark_iii#Driver sAndSoftware
If the EOS Utility can download the CR2 files to your hard drive, then your camera is not defective.

5d Mark III - Metering Underexposed

So first off, I apologize as I think I've seen a similar thread here but I can't find it anymore!
I purchased a 5d Mark III as an upgrade from my 7d a couple of weeks ago and, although I am happy, there is one main issue that is bothering me.
When I meter a "perfect" exposure, the camera is delivering about a full stop UNDER that.
My normal settings are;
Shoot in M
Center focus point
Spot metering
AI Servo.
I generally shoot 2/3 over anyway, and find that I'm needing to now shoot at least 1 2/3 over to get the same result as my 7d. In addition to that, I'm getting a noticeable vignette in lower (but even/consistent) light situations.
I have tried all the different metering options, including variations on the focus points. I have done a full factory reset and the issue is consistent across all my lenses.
Any ideas?

rjs1981 wrote:
Thanks for the response!
I just did some additional test shots to answer your question more accurately.
I shot a grey card under tungsten light at ISO 4000, 2.8, with a 50mm 1.4. I shot the same image with both cameras set up exactly the same, and the 5dm3 is, in that shot, roughly 2/3rds underexposed.
I'm really baffled.
ps. I notice you use the 60Da. Never spoken to an owner. Do you love it? I am starting to really enjoy astrophotography so that unit is interesting to me. Its pretty much geared towards that one purpose yes?
You don't, by chance, happen to own an incident light meter to determine which camera is actually telling the truth do you?
As you are shooting in "M" according to your post, the exposure compensation is ignored (it's used to P, Tv, or Av modes... but not M). It's the only setting I can think of that would cause the camera to createa a different exposure.
So barring that, it seems one of your cameras is having a problem. I once had someone tell me that their Canon 5D II and Canon 5D III were giving different exposures... but I own two Sekonic incident light meters and three Canon bodies.... so I tested the light with both Sekonic incident meters, then tested my bodies pointed at the same gray card and all agreed on the exposure.
But it sounds like you've done some reasonable testing to make sure the exposures *should* be the same... and yet they aren't. It seems reasonable that it points to a problem with one of the cameras. I can tell you that my own 5D III body (and I also own a 5D II body) are metering accurately so I don't think there's a 5D III metering problem per se, but you may have a individual body with an issue.
As for the 60Da... I'm quite pleased with this camera. So here's the story.
I belong to a fairly large astronomy club in the area. I'm going to guess there are about 160 members. Of those... probably about 20% are fairly seriosu imagers. A few owned the old Canon 20Da (the first astro camera Canon sold). Many members own modified and unmodified Rebel bodies as well. But when Canon released the 60Da, several members took notice and bought one.
So one day I'm at a friend's house and the previous night another club member was at his private observatory with his 60Da and took a photo of the whirlpool galaxy (M51). I was looking at the EXIF data for the exposure. At the time I did not own a 60Da... but I did have the 5D II (I did not yet have the 5D III). I took the _same_ exposure (ISO & shutter time) with my camera using the identical scope in the same observatory for the same object.
At the end of my exposure, I got almost nothing.
I doubled the exposure.
I could see a hint of the galaxy... but mostly nothing.
I tripled the exposure.
Now I was starting to see the hints of the galaxy... but nowhere even remotely close to what the 60Da had captured. (and I'm using a 5D II which blows the doors off the 60D when it comes to ISO performance.)
The following day I ordered a 60Da.
Human eyes are a bit wonky... we are "most" sensitive to greens because they are pretty much smack in the middle of the visible spectrum (which runs from 400nm to 700nm wavelengths). We are less sensitive to blues and reds. Traditional cameras compensate for this in several ways... rather than "truthfully" collecting light, the Bayer mask is already stacked to double the green reception vs. the blue or red. But even the filters inside the camera have a slow ramp up to block the IR. The "IR" filter actually starts to block the spectrum gently even as low as around 500-550nm. It ramps up gradually as it approaches 700nm.
90% of the universe is composed of hydrogen atoms. Atoms give off light at very specific wavelengths as their electrons jump from one shell to anotther. For hydrogen, it's the Ballmer series where the dominant light is at 656.28nm (Hydrogen alpha wavelength), then hydrogen beta, gamma and delta... but those are cyan, and a few shades of violet and safely sharter wavelengths then what a terrerestrial camera IR filter blocks. It's mostly the Ha which is a problem.
The 60Da is at least 3x more sensitive to Ha (and possibly closer to 5x more sensitive) as compared to a non-modified terrestrial DSLR cameras. The result is that not only do you get more reds (the Ha is a fire-engine red color), but overall you get much shorter exposure times to capture the same image.
There are several companies which make high end dedicated astro-imaging CCD cameras... SBIG (Santa Barbara Imaging Group), Finger Lakes, Apogee, etc. These are typically monochrome cameras with peltier cooling systems that can chill the CCD considerable colder than ambient temps (becaue there's a relationship between physical temps and noise), have incredible well-depth (basically a measure of dynamic range), and fitler wheels. Since a monochrome camera does not have a bayer mask, the cameras are much more sensitive to light -- but they can't see "color". To compensate, a filter wheel rotates in a "red" filter, "blue" filter, "green" filter, and usually a "luminance" filter. They may also use special narrowband filters to pick up Ha, Hb, O III, etc. They take numerous images in each part of the spectrum and them merge them to create color image. These cameras tend to be expensive. I sure would love to own an SBIG STX-16803 and filter wheel but it's the better part of $12,000!
The 60Da has been working quite nicely so far - a good workhorse and I've put it to use numerous times capturing images for hours on end.
Here's an image taken by my 60Da. This is based on 16 combined "light" images of 4 minutes each of the Dumbbell nebula (Messier 27). I also took 8 "darks". What I did _not_ take were any "flats" or "bias" images and it shows. You can see the obvious vignetting caused by the telescope ("flat" images would have allowed my software to compensate for this.) The red colors you see in this image are Hydrogen atoms giving off light in Hydrogen alpha wavelength. Without a modified camera, you get red... but not nearly as much.
BTW... in fairness I should mention that I'm getting pretty good at image "acquisition" in astrophotography... but I have a lot of learning to do when it comes to image "processing" for astrophotography. Most of my club members blow me away (even using the same camera that I use) but I am learning quickly.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

When will finder show a thumbnail or preview of the raw file images from the Canon 5d mark iii?

I am wondering if anyone has an update on when finder will show a thumbnail for the raw files from the Canon 5d mark III? I've done all the updates possible and nothing has changed, I can't do a quick preview either, it just shows the extension image, not the actual image taken. (The symbol for crw).

I had the same problem for a Canon EOS-1D X and finally got around it by viewing the images in Adobe Bridge. Worked beautifully!

Corrupted images captured by new 5D Mark III

Hi,
I got two corrupted images while shooting with my new 5D Mark III..I was using 45mbps sandisk extreme SD card and the mode was only JPEG(fine). After getting two corrupted images I shoot 1k images but no problem there after..Later I copied those images in my HDD except two corrupted images all are looked nice.. My y question is what was the actual problem?Thank you in advance..
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I'd advise at least doing a quick in-camera format each time you insert a memory card (or right after downloading, if you use the USB cable to transfer your images).
The in-camera format preps the memory card for use, configuring it with some needed file structures and writing over old files.
If you ever format in computer, always re-format it in your camera before shooting. It's possible that the computer won't configure the card in a way that will work properly in the camera.
Usually corrupt images are due to card issue or connectivity when downloading. If you are seeing the corruption in the camera, then I'd first suspect the card (either it's faulty, or it's configured incorrectly, or something on there is causing a conflict).
I once corrupted a number of images on a Compact Flash by opening the memory card door and pulling the card out too quickly, while the last image or two were still being written. It corrupted about 1/3 of the images on the card, not just the last one taken. Initially all the images on the card were unreadable, until I ran a recovery program. That was able to repair about 2/3 of the images... roughly 200 out of 300 images, if I recall correctly.
The worst corruption issue I've had (in ten years shooting digital almost exclusively, nearly 20 years shooting some digital), was due to connectivity issues. I had a card reader connected to a USB hub. Took it off the hub and connected it directly to the computer's USB port and the problem was solved.
It's possible, but pretty rare that the camera itself causes occasional corrupt files. Usually if the camera starts throwing off corrupted files, it's most or all images... not just an occasional one. I'd keep an eye on it and if it continues happening, try a different memory card first. If it continues to happen with a different card, have the camera looked at.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Images from Canon 5D Mark III not appearing super sharp in Photoshop CS6 or Lightroom 4

I have a brand new Macbook Pro with Retina Display and am running CS6, shooting with a Mark III in full resolution raw format. Focus is on in camera but when I open the images in Photoshop, they do not appear super sharp when zoomed in. Is this a display issue or a program issue or something else? In the past I can usually get the images so sharp that I can see every pore and hair.

I would try in other programs and see what they look like. Since it is same camera and PS, they should be as sharp as before. Maybe the screen, as it is the variable here?

Corrupted Images from Canon 5D Mark iii

Hey guys... I'm new to forum with this being my first post. I have been shooting for a few years now and have never encountered this issue. I'm not finding any help either on the web as hot to resolve this issue either.
When my Hoodman Steel 32GB CF card is in the card slot on the camera, the images look fine in preview mode. When I transfer them to my hard drive and look at the thumbnails on my Mac cpu the images look fine. It's when I try and open them with Camera Raw, Photoshop, Lightroom or any other photo editing software do they end up looking corrupted. Here are a couple of screenshots of how they are looking upon importing.
Any help to recover these images would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance and I look forward to sharing photography stories and shots in the future.
Ryan
| Canon 5D Mark iii | Canon 70-200mm L series | Canon 16-35mm L series |

ebiggs1 wrote:
Ryan,
I imagine those are lost. The CF card looks like it is corrupted. I never heard of or have used that brand of CF card so I have no idea of its quality.
I suggest you get Sandisk or Lexar. Also format it before each important shoot each time. I also prefer 16GB cards.
It is possibile your computer did the damage so you might try a different computer. Showing a photo on the camera's LCD monitor is no indicatition.
Thanks for the comments... I was actually able to retrieve them. I had recently updated to Yosemite and low and behold, that apparently was the culprit. I downloaded the new EOS 3 Utility that is reported to work with Yosemite and transfered the images straight out of my camera to my hard drive. Once I opened those images in Camera Raw everything checked out just fine. I'm guessing my card reader isn't compatible with Yosemite. Thanks again for responding.

Problem with the RAW images from Canon 5d Mark III

hope you are doing good. i need your opinion regarding a phenomena i am observing in the RAW images from Mark iii.
The following images appear to be absolutely correct in the camera and when viewed through a picture viewer.
I have tried and tested the following scenarios:
1. Used a medium speed kingston CF Card (new) and transferred the images through the USB cable supplied with the camera.
2. Thought the card might be slow OR faulty.. used Sandisk Extreme and Extreme Pro SD Cards but same result.
3. Transferred SD Card data through the builit in laptop card reader.
4. Have directly imported the images from SD Card into Lightroom 4.3, copied the data firstly to laptop HDD and then imported, copied the SD card data to an external HDD and then copied. .... same result!!
5. Have tried the same with both Win7 and Mac OS.
6. The DPP sw that came with the camera gives the error of 'Decoding Failed' with these images.
Usually 10-15 images out of 100 give this kinda pattern. so i was hoping if you can guide me what is going wrong here !!!

The camera and PictureViewer are likely showing you the embedded JPG, while DPP and LR are decoding the raw data which appears to be corrupted. Assuming you have formatted your SD cards in the camera and the issues are always in the same positions in the same images when you transfer them multiple times from the card to different computers via different methods, then the data is on the card that way.
If the embedded JPG is ok then the sensor is ok, so something between the sensor-readout and the storage on the card appears to be failing intermittently, and it’s time to talk to Canon, I think.

Just got me a new camer canon 5D mark iii and now I can't send the images from lightroom to open in photoshop anymore

Hi Mark, I have lightroom and Photoshop CS6 and worked with it with my old camera, Canon 60D and had no problem
now I got me a new one, Canon 5D Mark iii and I can import the images into lightroom but I can't not send it from lightroom to photoshop. Also tried to drag and drop the picture image directly into photoshop but it wouldn't allow me to do so.
What do I have to do to get that working?

In Bridge, go to Edit->Preferences->File Type Associations

I can not open raw image files from my Cannon 5d mark iii with cs6 and my cs6 in mac

I can not open raw image files from my Cannon 5d mark iii with cs6 and my cs6 in mac

The Mk III requires an updated version of Camera RAw, so run Help --> Updates and install it.
Mylenium

I tested my new Canon 5D Mark iii with my 85 1.2 L lens. The images look terrible! What gives?

I just purchased a new Canon 5D Mark iii body. It is replacing my 1Ds Mark ii. I tested it with my 85 1.2 L series lens. I took the RAW images into Capture One 7 to look at them. I was highly disturbed at what I saw. The quality was no where near my Canon 1Ds Mark ii. The images seemed somewhat soft even after applying a consderable amount of sharpening. They also looked flat and lifeless, even after pumping the contrast and adding Clarity. All in all they looked terrible! I must have something wrong, as I have read countless times that the new chip gives incredible results.
When first attempting to set up my camera I set it to Adobe RGB and for RAW images only. I noticed that you seemed forced into deciding on a specific "Picture Style". I left it on the default settting of "Standard". Should that effect my RAW files, or is that bypassed altogether when shooting RAW? I noticed that in "Standard" mode that some in camera sharpening was applied to the files. Is that my problem? Should that be turned down to zero, as I would normally do all my sharpening afterward either in Capture One 7 or other software. I shot all my test images with fast shutter speeds so that is not the issue. This lens is in perfect condition and has always produced incredibly sharp contrasty images. What on earth could be wrong? Any suggestions? I am a professional shooter for the last 20 years, so this is really perplexing me! Help!!!

Hi Corey,
Picture styles are ONLY applied to JPEG images or video. They are never applied to RAW. Canon will "tag" the meta-data of the image indicating picture style choices so that desktop processing software that understands those choices can apply it after-the-fact. But the point of "RAW" is that the camera will not perform any change to the image which would result in a loss of original data.
As for the soft focus... the good news there is probably nothing wrong with your camera or your lens. It probably just needs a slight focus calibration adjustment (you don't even need to send it in for this.)
The camera sensor is analogous to a movie screen. If the image is blurry... it's not the movie screen... it's the movie projector (or the focus). However... keeping with that analogy... suppose we focused the image perfectly... but then moved the project a foot closer to the screen. The result would be a slightly out-of-focus image even though there is actually nothing wrong with the projector.
The phase detect focus sensors are on the floor of your camera. When the reflex mirror is down, some light is bounced down into those sensors to focus the image. The distance to the AF sensors vs. the distance to the real sensor is supposed to be calibrated to match... but it's actually possible for the AF sensors to think the image is focused when it's really slightly out of focus on the sensor. For this reason, your camera has auto-focus micro-adjustment capability -- in other words this is something you can test and tune yourself. The REASON you might do it yourself is because it turns out it can be different for every lens (even two EF 85mm f/1.2L lenses in a row might have slightly different focus). This adjustment is only available on the mid-range and pro bodies -- it's part of the reason you buy a premium body. The camera can actually remember the AF adjustment for each lens uniquely.
See this article: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2008/12/this-lens-is-soft-and-other-myths
Or this article: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/are_your_pictures_out_of_focus.shtml
BTW, to test the lens, I'd suggest getting a focus calibration target. You want controlled conditions when you do this -- don't shoot typical everday subjects because it wont be precise enough.
I use a DataColor Spyder "LensCal". The LensAlign products are also popular.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Have CS6, but my Mark 5D III CR2 images won't load, can't install plug in 6.7!

I just upgraded to CS6, but my Canon Mark 5D III CR2 images won't load, and everytime I try to download the 6.7 plug-in, it tells me it is "not for me." Help!

Get the ACR 7.1 RC (beta) at Labs.Adobe.com.

5D Mark III - Underexposed images

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for